Oceanic Internal Waves and Solitons 1. Introduction
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Downloaded 09/24/21 11:26 AM UTC 966 JOURNAL of PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY VOLUME 46
MARCH 2016 G R I M S H A W E T A L . 965 Modelling of Polarity Change in a Nonlinear Internal Wave Train in Laoshan Bay ROGER GRIMSHAW Department of Mathematical Sciences, Loughborough University, Loughborough, United Kingdom CAIXIA WANG AND LAN LI Physical Oceanography Laboratory, Ocean University of China, Qingdao, China (Manuscript received 23 July 2015, in final form 29 December 2015) ABSTRACT There are now several observations of internal solitary waves passing through a critical point where the coefficient of the quadratic nonlinear term in the variable coefficient Korteweg–de Vries equation changes sign, typically from negative to positive as the wave propagates shoreward. This causes a solitary wave of depression to transform into a train of solitary waves of elevation riding on a negative pedestal. However, recently a polarity change of a different kind was observed in Laoshan Bay, China, where a periodic wave train of elevation waves converted to a periodic wave train of depression waves as the thermocline rose on a rising tide. This paper describes the application of a newly developed theory for this phenomenon. The theory is based on the variable coefficient Korteweg–de Vries equation for the case when the coefficient of the quadratic nonlinear term undergoes a change of sign and predicts that a periodic wave train will pass through this critical point as a linear wave, where a phase change occurs that induces a change in the polarity of the wave, as observed. A two-layer model of the density stratification and background current shear is developed to make the theoretical predictions specific and quantitative. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Internal Gravity Waves: from Instabilities to Turbulence Chantal Staquet, Joël Sommeria
Internal gravity waves: from instabilities to turbulence Chantal Staquet, Joël Sommeria To cite this version: Chantal Staquet, Joël Sommeria. Internal gravity waves: from instabilities to turbulence. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, Annual Reviews, 2002, 34, pp.559-593. 10.1146/an- nurev.fluid.34.090601.130953. hal-00264617 HAL Id: hal-00264617 https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00264617 Submitted on 4 Feb 2020 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. Distributed under a Creative Commons Attribution| 4.0 International License INTERNAL GRAVITY WAVES: From Instabilities to Turbulence C. Staquet and J. Sommeria Laboratoire des Ecoulements Geophysiques´ et Industriels, BP 53, 38041 Grenoble Cedex 9, France; e-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Key Words geophysical fluid dynamics, stratified fluids, wave interactions, wave breaking Abstract We review the mechanisms of steepening and breaking for internal gravity waves in a continuous density stratification. After discussing the instability of a plane wave of arbitrary amplitude in an infinite medium at rest, we consider the steep- ening effects of wave reflection on a sloping boundary and propagation in a shear flow. The final process of breaking into small-scale turbulence is then presented. -
Waves and Weather
Waves and Weather 1. Where do waves come from? 2. What storms produce good surfing waves? 3. Where do these storms frequently form? 4. Where are the good areas for receiving swells? Where do waves come from? ==> Wind! Any two fluids (with different density) moving at different speeds can produce waves. In our case, air is one fluid and the water is the other. • Start with perfectly glassy conditions (no waves) and no wind. • As wind starts, will first get very small capillary waves (ripples). • Once ripples form, now wind can push against the surface and waves can grow faster. Within Wave Source Region: - all wavelengths and heights mixed together - looks like washing machine ("Victory at Sea") But this is what we want our surfing waves to look like: How do we get from this To this ???? DISPERSION !! In deep water, wave speed (celerity) c= gT/2π Long period waves travel faster. Short period waves travel slower Waves begin to separate as they move away from generation area ===> This is Dispersion How Big Will the Waves Get? Height and Period of waves depends primarily on: - Wind speed - Duration (how long the wind blows over the waves) - Fetch (distance that wind blows over the waves) "SMB" Tables How Big Will the Waves Get? Assume Duration = 24 hours Fetch Length = 500 miles Significant Significant Wind Speed Wave Height Wave Period 10 mph 2 ft 3.5 sec 20 mph 6 ft 5.5 sec 30 mph 12 ft 7.5 sec 40 mph 19 ft 10.0 sec 50 mph 27 ft 11.5 sec 60 mph 35 ft 13.0 sec Wave height will decay as waves move away from source region!!! Map of Mean Wind -
Waves on Deep Water, I
Lecture 14: Waves on deep water, I Lecturer: Harvey Segur. Write-up: Adrienne Traxler June 23, 2009 1 Introduction In this lecture we address the question of whether there are stable wave patterns that propagate with permanent (or nearly permanent) form on deep water. The primary tool for this investigation is the nonlinear Schr¨odinger equation (NLS). Below we sketch the derivation of the NLS for deep water waves, and review earlier work on the existence and stability of 1D surface patterns for these waves. The next lecture continues to more recent work on 2D surface patterns and the effect of adding small damping. 2 Derivation of NLS for deep water waves The nonlinear Schr¨odinger equation (NLS) describes the slow evolution of a train or packet of waves with the following assumptions: • the system is conservative (no dissipation) • then the waves are dispersive (wave speed depends on wavenumber) Now examine the subset of these waves with • only small or moderate amplitudes • traveling in nearly the same direction • with nearly the same frequency The derivation sketch follows the by now normal procedure of beginning with the water wave equations, identifying the limit of interest, rescaling the equations to better show that limit, then solving order-by-order. We begin by considering the case of only gravity waves (neglecting surface tension), in the deep water limit (kh → ∞). Here h is the distance between the equilibrium surface height and the (flat) bottom; a is the wave amplitude; η is the displacement of the water surface from the equilibrium level; and φ is the velocity potential, u = ∇φ. -
21 Non-Linear Wave Equations and Solitons
Utah State University DigitalCommons@USU Foundations of Wave Phenomena Open Textbooks 8-2014 21 Non-Linear Wave Equations and Solitons Charles G. Torre Department of Physics, Utah State University, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/foundation_wave Part of the Physics Commons To read user comments about this document and to leave your own comment, go to https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/foundation_wave/2 Recommended Citation Torre, Charles G., "21 Non-Linear Wave Equations and Solitons" (2014). Foundations of Wave Phenomena. 2. https://digitalcommons.usu.edu/foundation_wave/2 This Book is brought to you for free and open access by the Open Textbooks at DigitalCommons@USU. It has been accepted for inclusion in Foundations of Wave Phenomena by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@USU. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Foundations of Wave Phenomena, Version 8.2 21. Non-linear Wave Equations and Solitons. In 1834 the Scottish engineer John Scott Russell observed at the Union Canal at Hermiston a well-localized* and unusually stable disturbance in the water that propagated for miles virtually unchanged. The disturbance was stimulated by the sudden stopping of a boat on the canal. He called it a “wave of translation”; we call it a solitary wave. As it happens, a number of relatively complicated – indeed, non-linear – wave equations can exhibit such a phenomenon. Moreover, these solitary wave disturbances will often be stable in the sense that if two or more solitary waves collide then after the collision they will separate and take their original shape. -
Marine Forecasting at TAFB [email protected]
Marine Forecasting at TAFB [email protected] 1 Waves 101 Concepts and basic equations 2 Have an overall understanding of the wave forecasting challenge • Wave growth • Wave spectra • Swell propagation • Swell decay • Deep water waves • Shallow water waves 3 Wave Concepts • Waves form by the stress induced on the ocean surface by physical wind contact with water • Begin with capillary waves with gradual growth dependent on conditions • Wave decay process begins immediately as waves exit wind generation area…a.k.a. “fetch” area 4 5 Wave Growth There are three basic components to wave growth: • Wind speed • Fetch length • Duration Wave growth is limited by either fetch length or duration 6 Fully Developed Sea • When wave growth has reached a maximum height for a given wind speed, fetch and duration of wind. • A sea for which the input of energy to the waves from the local wind is in balance with the transfer of energy among the different wave components, and with the dissipation of energy by wave breaking - AMS. 7 Fetches 8 Dynamic Fetch 9 Wave Growth Nomogram 10 Calculate Wave H and T • What can we determine for wave characteristics from the following scenario? • 40 kt wind blows for 24 hours across a 150 nm fetch area? • Using the wave nomogram – start on left vertical axis at 40 kt • Move forward in time to the right until you reach either 24 hours or 150 nm of fetch • What is limiting factor? Fetch length or time? • Nomogram yields 18.7 ft @ 9.6 sec 11 Wave Growth Nomogram 12 Wave Dimensions • C=Wave Celerity • L=Wave Length • -
Shallow Water Waves and Solitary Waves Article Outline Glossary
Shallow Water Waves and Solitary Waves Willy Hereman Department of Mathematical and Computer Sciences, Colorado School of Mines, Golden, Colorado, USA Article Outline Glossary I. Definition of the Subject II. Introduction{Historical Perspective III. Completely Integrable Shallow Water Wave Equations IV. Shallow Water Wave Equations of Geophysical Fluid Dynamics V. Computation of Solitary Wave Solutions VI. Water Wave Experiments and Observations VII. Future Directions VIII. Bibliography Glossary Deep water A surface wave is said to be in deep water if its wavelength is much shorter than the local water depth. Internal wave A internal wave travels within the interior of a fluid. The maximum velocity and maximum amplitude occur within the fluid or at an internal boundary (interface). Internal waves depend on the density-stratification of the fluid. Shallow water A surface wave is said to be in shallow water if its wavelength is much larger than the local water depth. Shallow water waves Shallow water waves correspond to the flow at the free surface of a body of shallow water under the force of gravity, or to the flow below a horizontal pressure surface in a fluid. Shallow water wave equations Shallow water wave equations are a set of partial differential equations that describe shallow water waves. 1 Solitary wave A solitary wave is a localized gravity wave that maintains its coherence and, hence, its visi- bility through properties of nonlinear hydrodynamics. Solitary waves have finite amplitude and propagate with constant speed and constant shape. Soliton Solitons are solitary waves that have an elastic scattering property: they retain their shape and speed after colliding with each other. -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves. -
Soliton and Some of Its Geophysical/Oceanographic Applications
Introduction Historical KdV equation Other equations Theory Applications Higher dimensions Problems Soliton and Some of its Geophysical/Oceanographic Applications M. Lakshmanan Centre for Nonlinear Dynamics Bharathidasan University Tiruchirappalli – 620024 India Discussion Meeting, ICTS-TIFR 21 July 2016 M. Lakshmanan Soliton and Some of its Geophysical Introduction Historical KdV equation Other equations Theory Applications Higher dimensions Problems Theme Soliton is a counter-intuitive wave entity arising because of a delicate balance between dispersion and nonlinearity. Its major attraction is its localized nature, finite energy and preservation of shape under collision = a remark- ably stable structure. Consequently, it has⇒ ramifications in as wider areas as hydrodynamics, tsunami dynamics, condensed matter, magnetism, particle physics, nonlin- ear optics, cosmology and so on. A brief overview will be presented with emphasis on oceanographic applications and potential problems will be indicated. M. Lakshmanan Soliton and Some of its Geophysical Introduction Historical KdV equation Other equations Theory Applications Higher dimensions Problems Plan 1 Introduction 2 Historical: (i) Scott-Russel (ii) Zabusky/Kruskal 3 Korteweg-de Vries equation and solitary wave/soliton 4 Other ubiquitous equations 5 Mathematical theory of solitons 6 Geophysical/Oceanographic applications 7 Solitons in higher dimensions 8 Problems and potentialities M. Lakshmanan Soliton and Some of its Geophysical Introduction Historical KdV equation Other equations Theory -
Dissipative Cnoidal Waves (Turing Rolls) and the Soliton Limit in Microring Resonators
Research Article Vol. X, No. X / Febrary 1046 B.C. / OSA Journal 1 Dissipative cnoidal waves (Turing rolls) and the soliton limit in microring resonators ZHEN QI1,*,S HAOKANG WANG1,J OSÉ JARAMILLO-VILLEGAS2,M INGHAO QI3, ANDREW M. WEINER3,G IUSEPPE D’AGUANNO1,T HOMAS F. CARRUTHERS1, AND CURTIS R. MENYUK1 1University of Maryland at Baltimore County, 1000 Hilltop Circle, Baltimore, MD 21250, USA 2Technological University of Pereira, Cra. 27 10-02, Pereira, Risaralda 660003, Colombia 3Purdue University, 610 Purdue Mall, West Lafayette, IN 47907, USA *Corresponding author: [email protected] Compiled May 27, 2019 Single solitons are a special limit of more general waveforms commonly referred to as cnoidal waves or Turing rolls. We theoretically and computationally investigate the stability and acces- sibility of cnoidal waves in microresonators. We show that they are robust and, in contrast to single solitons, can be easily and deterministically accessed in most cases. Their bandwidth can be comparable to single solitons, in which limit they are effectively a periodic train of solitons and correspond to a frequency comb with increased power. We comprehensively explore the three-dimensional parameter space that consists of detuning, pump amplitude, and mode cir- cumference in order to determine where stable solutions exist. To carry out this task, we use a unique set of computational tools based on dynamical system theory that allow us to rapidly and accurately determine the stable region for each cnoidal wave periodicity and to find the instabil- ity mechanisms and their time scales. Finally, we focus on the soliton limit, and we show that the stable region for single solitons almost completely overlaps the stable region for both con- tinuous waves and several higher-periodicity cnoidal waves that are effectively multiple soliton trains. -
Internal Waves Study on a Narrow Steep Shelf of the Black Sea Using the Spatial Antenna of Line Temperature Sensors
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Internal Waves Study on a Narrow Steep Shelf of the Black Sea Using the Spatial Antenna of Line Temperature Sensors Andrey Serebryany 1,2,* , Elizaveta Khimchenko 1 , Oleg Popov 3, Dmitriy Denisov 2 and Genrikh Kenigsberger 4 1 Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences, 117997 Moscow, Russia; [email protected] 2 Andreyev Acoustics Institute, 117036 Moscow, Russia; [email protected] 3 Obukhov Institute of Atmospheric Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, 119017 Moscow, Russia; [email protected] 4 Institute of Ecology of the Academy of Sciences of Abkhazia, Sukhum 384900, Abkhazia; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 4 August 2020; Accepted: 19 October 2020; Published: 22 October 2020 Abstract: The results of investigations into internal waves on a narrow steep shelf of the northeastern coast of the Black Sea are presented here. To measure the parameters of internal waves, the spatial antenna of three autonomous line temperature sensors were equipped in the depth range of 17 to 27 m. In observations that lasted for 10 days, near-inertial internal waves with a period close to 17 h and short-period internal waves with periods of 2–8 min, regularly approaching the coast, were revealed. The wave amplitudes were 4–8 m for inertial waves and 0.5–4 m for short-period internal waves. It was determined that most of the short-period internal waves approached from the southeast direction, from Cape Kodor. A large number of short waves reflected from the coast were also recorded. The intensification of short-period waves with inertial periodicity and the belonging of trains of short waves to crests of inertial waves were identified.