rebreathers Diving & Kayaking in Kiwi Country Text and photos by Barb Roy Kaikoura albatross The Maori warrior cautiously Our guide spoke moved towards us. His face was their language and understood painted and body adorned in their ways as he traditional combatant attire. He coached the yelled words I did not understand leader we select- and pounded the ground with ed on what to say and do. His his spear-like weapon to chal- advice proved to lenge us. More warriors appeared be invaluable, as out of the darkness behind him, we soon found each taking defensive positions ourselves invited into their theater with wide eyes and tongues out for a cultural to intimidate. Like the other visitors evening experi- around me, I froze with excite- ence of unforget- table measure, ment, waiting for their next move. preformed by local youth at the Treaty of Waitangi Sound and Light Show, located found east of Sidney, Australia, in the South on the northern tip of the North Island. Pacific Ocean between latitude 34’S and This was just one of the many entertain- 47’S; 266,200 square kilometers (103,735 sq ing activities I found to do when visiting miles) covers two islands resting in a north New Zealand, a land of limitless opportuni- to south direction with a vast mountain ties and unforgettable memories. I guess range running almost the countries full it was New Zealand’s remoteness that ini- length. While North Island is considered tially attracted me to this extremely diverse mostly sub-tropical, South Island is temper- place. Or perhaps it was the countries lush ate. In perspective, New Zealand is about green valleys, massive evergreen forests the size of Japan or the state of California. and jagged snow peaked mountains I saw Aside from the Maori people arriving more in the movie, Lord of the Rings, which was than 1000 years ago, the country’s first filmed on the South Island. documented discovery by a European As a diver and avid paddler, I was was in 1642 when the Dutch navigator pleased to also find an assortment of dive Abel Tasman came upon it while search- sites and kayaking options on both islands. ing for the southern continent. In 1769, Curious to learn more, I researched the Captain James Cook claimed the country Internet, and was soon on my way down for Britain and proceeded to map out the under aboard an Air New Zealand’s 12- area. hour flight from Los Angeles to Auckland, on the North Island, in March (which is the Diving The Poor Knights beginning of their winter). Upon arrival, I rented a car and head- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Base camp on Gagrinsky Ridge; On the world map, New Zealand can be ed towards a country-style B & B near Descending the cascading pits of the cave; Dropping into the pit of the sump Warrior dancer in Waitangi show Cave at Poor Nights on North Island, NZ 73 X-RAY MAG : 16 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel New Zealand

Wangarei for some diving around The Poor the Poor Knights, volcanic in origin, which boulders below the cave entrance resem- Knights. The constant hum of Cicadas filled are located about 15 miles (24 kilometers) ble a canvas of art with a colorful collage the air as I navigated the narrow winding off the northeastern coast. In 1981, this of marine critters painted upon it. Scorpion country roads, past pastures with lamas area was established as a Marine Reserve. fish and other camouflaged sculpins also and cattle. New Zealanders consider this Today, hundreds of divers from around the hid in cracks and crevasses around the southeastern part of the North Island sub- world enjoy the areas rich abundance of rocky pinnacle. A few white squid eggs tropic, meaning many of the tropical plant marine life found in the clear waters of this and fish species flourish, without the usual unique archipelago. The unusual name CLOCKWSIE FROM TOP LEFT: Apteryx haastii, by muggy humid climates normally associated Poor Knights was actually given by Captain John G. Keulemans, 1842-1912, Adult Kiwi and juve- with islands closer to the equator. I was just Cook when he sailed past the islands. nile; Jewel anemone; Whale Bay of North Island, glad I could wear my shorts, T-shirt and san- Thinking they resembled a popular break- Entering Poor Nights cave; Kukutauwhao Island dals. fast dish in Europe, ‘Poor Knights Pudding’ After repacking my dive and underwater (known today as French Toast), and the camera gear the following morning, I fact the red flowering lilies in October look headed for the Tutukaka Marina for my first a bit like strawberry topping, it’s easy to day at the Poor Knights, with Dive Tutukaka. understand why. The shop was teaming with excited divers Upon arrival, we tied up next to a sheer picking up rental gear, buying souvenirs rock wall in front of the massive Rico Rico and getting air fills. Totally unexpected, I Cave, so big a whole marina would fit met up with two fellow Canadian residents, inside if they ever decide to build one! originally from New Zealand, Ian and Julia Leaving my hood and gloves behind, I Hass, who arranged to joined me. donned my DUI shell with a 300 The shop had plenty of room for every- gram polartec undergarment and joined one on their seven dive charter boats, with the others entering the water. Ian and Julia tasty sack lunches from a nearby restaurant followed me in, and we descended next (offered as an option). During the 45-min- to fronds of kelp, swaying gently in a mild ute ride out, the boat captain told us we surge. could expect a water of 21°C Next to the cave entrance, we followed (70-72°F), with a visibility of 17-24 meters a wall stretching from the surface to over (60-80 feet). He also added that the water 27 meters (90 feet). A rich blend of inver- temps drop to 15°C (59°F) during the winter tebrate life covered everything. Stingrays, months. I was the only diver in a dry suit; over two feet across, kept swimming past, everyone else wore a full 5-6mm wet suit. almost close enough to touch. Ian and Two large islands and several smaller Julia were happy to play models for me, pinnacles, islets and rock stacks make up without really knowing they were. Huge

74 X-RAY MAG : 16 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel New Zealand

ABOVE: Snapper. LEFT: Northern Scorpionfish; Diver at Poor Nights

were clustered together on the divers, there are over ten choice bottom and more colorful fish than dive sites in the area to choose I could keep track of. from. Our second dive was at a site On one of our excursions, our called ‘Magic Wall’ and the third boat joined several other boats dive at a location beneath an from the mainland for a jazz jam archway called ‘Middle Arch.’ in the big cave. The acoustics Within 20 minutes at Magic Wall, were incredible from the live music I lost count of how many differ- being played by the bands! ent species of moray eels we Overall, the diving was easy, saw. One was actually next to a service exceptional and price rea- scorpion fish and stayed there for sonable. While diving is available the longest time as if they were year round, the seas are the calm- friends. Sponge, tunicates, crabs, est during the summer months (our nudibranchs and pink gorgonian winter) and the visibility best dur- fans flourished on a kelp-covered ing their autumn and early winter , between 12-18 meters (40- months (March-July). 60 feet) at Middle Arch. Sandy If is your pleasure, patches separated the rocky ter- there are two retired Navy ships rain, where I found tiny slender fish, scuttled for divers, north of the starfish and more stingrays. Like Tutukaka Heads. The HMNZS Tui everything else, the wall beneath is a 62-meter (203 foot) long US the archway was covered with Navy ship was put down in 1999 in macro life, creating awesome 30 meters (98 feet) of water. The wide-angle, close-up or macro 113-meter (370 foot) long HMNZS image opportunities. Waikato went down in the year In all, I did four dives over two 2000, in 28 meters (92 feet) of days at the Poor Knights, with water. each dive quite different in appearance, yet still didn’t see it Kayaking Poor Knights all. Talking with the crew and other Before I left the area, I arranged

75 X-RAY MAG : 16 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The Original Worn by professional and sport divers who New Zealand demand the best. Tested down to -1.5ºC. travel & the Best Chosen for comfort and versatility. For more information and a list of our retail outlets, Only made visit our website: for and by:

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Divers explore [email protected] a cave at Poor Nights; Dive boats moored at the cave; Divers on Dive Tutukakas’ big boat; North Island a day of paddling along the Once again, the cicadas song Service placed charges on the kayaking gives adventurers an oppor- shoreline with Kea Spill and Shane was in the air, and I actually found vessel in July 1985, because of pro- tunity to take in the stunning natural Orchard, from Paradise Coast one of the little critters squeak- tests conducted by beauty of New Zealand Kayaking (now called Pacific ing away. Looking around at the over nuclear testing in the Pacific Coast Kayaks). We launched our breathtaking view, I was amazed by the French government. The boats just south of the marina, at the grandeur of such a stunning detonation sent the Rainbow in a secluded bay. The day was place. Warrior to the bottom of the fairly sunny and the water calm, Once back in our boat, we con- Auckland Harbour. In 1987, the just how I like it. A dry bag kept tinued north past weather beaten ship was re-floated and relocated my camera safe and a spray skirt cliffs, sparse patches of trees and to the Cavalli Islands where it rests kept the bottom half of me dry, as secluded beaches. After Shane today in Matauri Bay. it pulled over the lip of the boat. joined us, we headed for Whale I was in photographic heaven Kea also packed a lunch, water, Bay for a dive. Shane said to find so many different shades sun block and gear many of his clients enjoy coastal of jeweled anemones clinging to before we headed north. snorkeling during the summer the rails and hull as I perused the Our journey led us through tight months, and some even camp underwater. The passageways and across water along the way during multi-day wreck was sitting upright with the that resembled washing machine journeys. stern at 22 meters (70 feet), but agitation. Kea and I were in a two- Diving Paihia didn’t look safe to penetrate. A person kayak and Shane joined us Paihia was my next destination, thick growth of kelp covered the later with his single person kayak. located at the top of the North deck while the most color and life At times, I was sure our boat was Island, for some diving at The Bay was found on the starboard side. attracted to white water. Having of Islands. The town was hopping Clusters of sponge clung to the rail Kea as a chauffeur (steering from with activities like wind surfing, and tiny sculpins danced about the back) was great, especially whale watching boats, kayaks, the deck. I reached a maximum when I needed to photograph diving and more outdoor enthu- depth of 26 meters (85 feet) where something or steady my camera. siasts. I located Paihia Dive for sand surrounded the hull. We landed at Kukutauwhao Island a day of diving on the Rainbow We explored Lion Point next, for a lunch and hiked through Warrior, an old Greenpeace boat within the Bay of Islands group. thick brush to the top of a steep with a very colorful history. Upon descent I could see the fin- hill. Apparently, the French Secret gering reefs suggested a volcanic

76 X-RAY MAG : 16 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED NEW ZEALAND FACT FILE Diver with giant lobster New Zealand General information: travel • Tourism New Zealand www.tourisminfo.govt.nz to be bountiful. At one point, our dive- Kayaking 310-395-7480 or 866-639-9325 master managed to grab a lobster, so Queen Charlotte Sount (US/Canada) we could see it up close! From Auckland, I caught a flight to • Air New Zealand Later that night, I was treated to an Blenheim, at the northern tip of the www.airnewzealand.com, evening of Maori history during a per- South Island and picked up another 310-648-7000, 800-262-1234 formance sponsored by Culture North, rental car. Within a few hours, I was (Canada 800-663-5494) Treaty of Waitangi Sound and Light kayaking in the Queen Charlotte Sound Show (as explained in the opening para- with Marlborough Sound Adventure Diving in New Zealand: graph). The areas youth told a 1000- Company out of Picton. The setting sun • Dive Tutukaka year-old story about Kupe the first Maori gave the Tea trees lining the banks a www.diving.co.nz chief to discover New Zealand, splendid- golden hue. Paddling clear of a huge 0800-288-882 ly perform this live drama involving audi- passenger/auto ferry, connecting the • Blenheim Dive Centre ence participation. Even the theater was two islands, we headed for a blue pen- www.blenheimdive.co.nz adorned in traditional Maori carvings. guin nesting area. Unfortunately, the tiny or 0064 3 5780331 Before leaving North Island, I made birds were still out fishing. • Dive Kaikoura my way to the Mangingina Kauri walk in We made it back to town as the sun www.scubadive.co.nz the Puketi Forest to see the giant trees, was setting. My new paddling friends 0800 SCUBADIVE past in its design. Sea urchins, lobster, which once covered these northern joined me for a plate of green-lipped • Rainbow Warrior Information crabs and shrimp used a ground cover lands. An easy accessible eco-friendly mussels and some tasty local wine, two matauribay.co.nz/diving.html of kelp to veil their presence. Steep walls boardwalk has been placed there to items the area is famous for. supported a healthy invertebrate envi- lead the way through most of forest, Activities in New Zealand: ronment and the fish population seemed creating a wonderful short or long walk. • Pacific Coast Kayaks www.nzseakayaking.co.nz 09 4344262 • Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company ABOVE: Detail of the wreck Marlboroughsounds.co.nz of the Rainbow Warrior 03-573-6078 RIGHT: Poor Knights Wall ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������� ���� ������� ���� ����� ���� ������ ������ ����� ���� ������ ������ ������ ��������� ��������� • Whale Watching Kaikoura ������ �������� ���� ��������� ��� � ����������������� ��� ����� ������ ����� ����� ���� www.whalewatch.co.nz BELOW: Jewel anemones on ���������������� 0800-655-121 Rainbow wreck • Dolphin Encounter ����� ��������� ��� ��� ��������� ���� ������������� ��������� ���� ����������� www.dolphin.co.nz ���������� ��������� ���� ����������� �������� ��������� ������������� 0800 733 365 ���������� ���� ������������ ������� ���������� ������������� �������� ���������������������������� • Albatross Encounter www.oceanwings.co.nz ��� ����������� ���� ���������� ���� ��������� 0800-733-365 ���������������������������� ����� ��� ���� ������ ��� ��������������������������������������������������� ���������������������������������������������������� ������� ���� ����������� ���� ������ ���� Books about New Zealand: ������������� ������ ����� ������ ������� ���� • Lonley Planet guide books �������� ����� �� ������ ����� ����� ���� ������ Tramping in New Zealand & ���������������������������������������� New Zealand Guide Book ������������ www.lonleyplanet.com • New Zealand Adventures In Nature by Sally McKinney, John Muir Publications • Coastal Fishes of New �������������� �������������������������� Zealand by M. Francis

77 X-RAY MAG : 16 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED NEW ZEALAND FACT FILE

Travel Info: travel • Airlines Servicing New Zealand – Air New Zealand, Quantas, Air Pacific, Air Tahiti. International Airports: Auckland, Wellington, and Christchurch • Money matters – All major credit cards are accepted, ATMs available and travelers checks can be cashed at banks, hotels and in some stores. • Time – 12 hours ahead of GMT • Driving – Driving is on the left side of the road ABOVE: Wildlife watch- Diving a Russian to large groups. Sea cucum- • Drinking Water – The water is ing boats moored at a cruise liner bers, sponge, bryozoans, fresh and safe to drink bay on the North Island Kevin Bailey from Blenheim Dive orange and white anemones • Electricity – 230/240 volts (50 Centre picked me up at my B and hydroids were among the hertz) LEFT: The Manginglina & B the next day for a dive on Lermontov’s residents. I was • Entry Into the Country – A pass- Kauri walk in the Puketi the 176 meter (578 foot) Russian able to get some good shots of port is required to enter the Forest, North Island cruise liner, Mikhail Lermontov, the ghostly looking bridge and country and must be valid for BELOW: Diver explores in Marlborough Sound. Kevin mast, also covered in life. Ken three months after your sched- the Levertov wreck explained the $45-million ship went in and out several open- uled departure date. unsuccessfully tried to ings. Our maximum depth was • Climate – North Island is sub- pass at night between 35 meters (114 feet) with the tropical and the South Island is the shallow turbid waters bow at 25 meters (85 feet) and temperate. The warmest time to of Cape Jackson and the upper deck at 18 meters visit is usually December through the Cape Lighthouse in (58 feet). February, 20-30C (68-86F) 1986. Barely making it to The second dive was on a • Thermal Protection for Diving – Port Gore, the ship sank pinnacle rising out of the water 5 or 6mm or a dry suit for with the port bridge wing next to Long Island Marine both islands. On South Island a just 12 meters (39 feet) Preserve. The underwater ter- neoprene hood and gloves is below the surface, on rain was filled with nudibranchs, needed. ■ its side. Only one crew fish, lobster and large sea stars. member was lost of the An inquisitive black sea lion 408 passengers. Not bad, buzzed us several times while South Island, was my final New considering it went down we checked out numerous small Zealand destination. This bustling in about ten minutes! valleys between the reefs. Sea seaside town is located on a Kevin and I entered stars with long rays, urchins, sea peninsula flanked by mountains the murky water cucumbers fish and wary crabs on one side and a breathtaking (October has the best were also observed. coastline on the other. Kaikoura visibility) and descended After the diving we stopped business operators cater to visiting to the wreck. I made at Motuara Island Reserve for an tourist by offering a wide range sure to don my hood afternoon hike to see the scenic of marine mammal activities. and gloves this time, views of the Sound. I thought it to Before my scheduled day of div- since the water on South be more of a birders’ paradise, ing, I signed up for several of these Island was 10 degrees counting over six different species excursions. colder! No way would and dozens of penguin houses The Whale watching trip offered we be able to see every- positioned on both sides of the by Whale Watching Kaikoura took thing, so we cruised path up the hill. Once at the top, the group to a favorite place along the top and outer the view was breathtaking. frequented by sperm whales for edge of the deck. hunting. Throughout the four hour Fish of every size and Kaikoura tour, we learned all about these color flourished in small Kaikoura, on the eastern side of illusive giant-toothed creatures

78 X-RAY MAG : 16 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Snorkeling field trip at Kaikoura; Albatross encounter; Pink Jewel anemone; travel Furs seal hunting New Zealand orful invertebrate life appeared as became more noticeable. found New Zealand to be a place requir- the surge revealed its treasure of The bottom quickly dropped to 18 ing several two to four-week visits to life. Several fur seals zoomed by to meters (50 feet) and continued down. gather enough experiences of what this check out my buddy and I. My buddy, the seals and I just peered land was all about. I still want to paddle down the bank into the some coastal lands, see volcanoes, tra- dark abyss and decided verse a few mountains, go rock climbing, this wasn’t the day to push try sand surfing on the dunes and explore our luck. Perhaps another the southern part of South Island. Rafting day with double tanks and through ice caves, exploring fresh water … crystal springs and visiting Milford Sound are also on my list for a return holiday Afterthoughts one day… Soon it was time for me to Barb Roy is a dive writer and underwa- depart this wonderland in ter photographer based in Canada. Visit: and observed them in the wild as they bors as the classroom is brought to the the Southern Hemisphere. I www.barbroyphotography.com ■ rested at the surface, while doing their ocean! It was also fun to watch young deep 120-360 meter (400-1200 foot) feed- kids get their first cold water experience ing dives. We were also told that most and encounter groups of young play- of the whales in the area are males, ful pups at the same time. I couldn’t tell who seem to tolerate the cooler water who was having more fun! for better hunting grounds. Females are Dive Kaikoura who took me out for a known to prefer warmer climates like Fiji dive in the kelp in a cove not far from and Hawaii. the harbor. During the ride out (all of Before long we were both On my next tour, I was able to snorkel about ten minutes) the dive master enthralled with the wreckage of with dusky dolphins. It took several in explained they use about ten regular an old sailboat. Realizing the seals and out of the water tries, but our per- sites in the area, all within an hours ride. had lost their hide-and-go-seek sistence soon rewarded us with a large Most of their customers are divers who partners, they both began to fol- pod of 30 animals. They were all around want to do one to three dives in a day low us, becoming our shadows. us at one point then minutes later were and if they fly in, all of the equipment is The four of us stayed together for gone! All snorkeling equipment and suits provided, including . most of the dive and even ven- were provided by the operator, Dolphin Upon entering the water in a sheltered tured over to the deeper parts Encounter Kaikoura. cove, a gentle surge pulled at me, but of the cove where the On another excursion, Albatross disappeared Encounter took me out to open ocean around eight where we found some local fisherman meters (25 feet). feeding gulls scraps of leftover bait. Wide-eyed fur These were no ordinary gulls though seals curiously they were one of the five varieties of watched from the ocean-going great albatross who the distance frequent the Kaikoura area. Normal gulls and submerged were clearly dwarfed by these beautiful when I did. gargantuans. Their wings were so long The boulders they had to double fold them on their below were back for management. Up to eight vari- draped with eties of the smaller albatross can also be lavender and found along with petrels, shearwater, pri- purple algae ons and shags. and speckled I next came across a group of kids dur- most of the ing a school field trip, who were snorkel- base structures ing with resident seals. What a treat to be under the kelp. able to learn about your marine neigh- Glimpses of col-

79 X-RAY MAG : 16 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED SOUTH PACIFIC Three Kings Islands OCEAN

factNew fileZealand Whangarel

Aukland

Tauranga Hamilton

SOURCE: WWW.CIA.GOV North Tasman Sea Island

History In about A.D. 800, the Polyne- Oceania, in the South Pa- Palmerston Napier sian Maori reached New Zealand. Their cific Ocean southeast of North chieftains signed a compact with Britain- Australia. Coastline: 15,134 In 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi, in which km. Terrain: New Zealand WELLINGTON they ceded sovereignty to Queen Vic- is predominately moun- Nelson toria while keeping territorial rights. The tainous with some expans- CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: North Island; Map of New Zealand; New Zealand Kiwifriut was once British started the first organized colonial es of coastal plains. Low- called Chinese gooseberry until growers changed it in the 70s, so it would sell well in the West South settlement in that same year. Between est point: Pacific Ocean Island 1843 and 1872, a series of land wars 0 m. Highest point: Aoraki-Mount Cook cal capabilities of the industrial sector mixed ethnicity 7.8%, unspec- resolved with the defeat of the native 3,754 m. Natural resources: natural gas, have broadened and deepened; and ified ethnicity 3.8% (2001 cen- Christchurch peoples. In 1907, the British colony of New iron ore, sand, coal, timber, hydropower, inflationary have been con- sus). Religion: Anglican 14.9%, Aoraki- Zealand became an independent do- gold, limestone. Natural hazards: mild tained. For eight consecutive years, per Roman Catholic 12.4%, Mount minion and supported the British militarily earthquakes and volcanic activity. Envi- capita income has risen and was more Presbyterian 10.9%, Method- Cook in World War I and II. By the , New ronmental issues: invasive species have than $25,500 in 2006 in purchasing power ist 2.9%, Pentecostal 1.7%, SOUTH Zealand’s full participation in a number of hit native flora and fauna hard; deforest- parity terms. In recent years, consumer Baptist 1.3%, other Christian Dunedin PACIFIC defense alliances ended. Recently, the ation; soil erosion; New Zealand is party and government spending have driven religions 9.4%, other religions Invercargill government has looked into addressing to international agreements such as Ant- growth, and in 2006, exports picked up. 3.3% (2001 census) OCEAN longstanding Maori grievances. Govern- arctic-Environmental Protocol, Antarctic- 28% of GDP are exports. With a heretofor Stewart ment: parliamentary democracy. Capi- Marine Living Resources, Antarctic Treaty, resilient economy, the Labor Govern- Currency New Zealand Island Bounty S tal: Wellington Biodiversity, Climate Change, Climate ment promises increased expenditures on dollar (NZD). Exchange Islands Change-Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, health, education, and pensions which rates: 1 USD= 1.43 NZD, Snares Geography New Zealand is made Endangered Species, Environmental will be proportionate to output. Agricul- 1 EUR=1.89 NZD, 1 GBP= Islands up of several Modification, Hazardous Wastes, Law of ture: wheat, barley, potatoes, pulses, 2.8 NZD, 1 SGD=.94 NZD, Antipodes Island islands the Sea, Marine Dumping, Ozone Layer fruits, vegetables; wool, beef, lamb and 1 AUD=1.13 NZD

CREATIVE COMMON Group locat- Protection, Ship Pollution, Tropical Timber mutton, dairy products; fish. Industry: food ed 83, Tropical Timber 94, Wetlands, Whal- processing, wood and paper products, Language English (official), in ing. Agreements which New Zealand has textiles, machinery, transportation equip- Maori (official), Sign Language (official). +64 9 445 5922 or 445 5920 signed but are not yet ratified include ment, banking and insurance, tourism, Anglican 14.9%, Roman Catholic 12.4%, www.navyhyperbaric.mil.nz ANDRÉ KARWATH, Antarctic Seals, Marine Life Conservation. mining. Presbyterian 10.9%, Methodist 2.9%, Pen- tecostal 1.7%, Baptist 1.3%, other Christian Christchurch Unit Economy Over the past 20 years, the Climate New Zealand climate is tem- 9.4%, other 3.3%, unspecified 17.2%, none Private Bag 4710 New Zealand government has helped perate. There are sharp contrasts within 26% (2001 census) Christchurch, New Zealand the nation move from an agrarian regions. Charge Nurse: Marj Van Der Linden economy dependent on concession- Chamber (03) 364 0045, Fax: (03) 364 0187 ary British market access to a more Population 4,076,140 (July 2006 est.). 24-hour 7-day a week industrialized, free market economy Cities hold about 80% of the population; Diver Emergency Service Web sites that is able to compete globally. Wellington is the most southern national 0800 4 DES 111 (0800 4 337 111) New Zealand Tourism As a result, real incomes have been capital in the world. Ethnic groups: Eu- www.newzealand.com/travel boosted while leaving behind many ropean 69.8%, Maori 7.9%, Asian 5.7%, Navy Hospital Slark Hyperbaric Unit New Zealand Tourism Online at the bottom of the barrel; technologi- Pacific islander 4.4%, other groups 0.5%, 91 Calliope Road, Devonport, Aukland www.tourism.net.nz

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