Maldie Burn Hydro Electric Scheme, , Eddrachillis,

Cultural Heritage and Archaeology

Catherine Dagg

for

ASH 21 Gordon Street Glasgow G1 3PL

Maldie Burn Hydro Electric Scheme, Kylestrome, Eddrachillis, Sutherland

Cultural Heritage and Archaeology

1.0 Introduction

A hydro-electric scheme is to be constructed on the Maldie Burn, Reay Forest, Eddrachillis, Sutherland. This evaluation was originally prepared for inclusion in an Environmental Impact Assessment and Environmental Statement on the proposed development, and covers the potential impact of the scheme on the archaeological record and cultural heritage of the area.

This evaluation aims to

• Identify the cultural heritage baseline within and in the vicinity of the proposed area of the development • Assess the proposed development site in terms of its archaeological and historic environment • Consider the potential impacts of construction and operation of the proposed development on the cultural heritage and archaeological record. • Propose measures (where appropriate) to mitigate any predicted adverse impacts

The cultural heritage resource of an area is taken to consist of the following elements which might be adversely affected by the development:

• Scheduled Ancient Monuments • Listed Buildings • Designed Landscapes and Gardens • Other archaeological features, conservation areas, historic cemeteries and battlefield sites

The evaluation contains the following elements:

• A desk-based assessment of the archaeological sites and areas of historical or cultural interest considered likely to be affected by the development. • A field evaluation of the area of the proposed development, to locate known and recorded archaeological sites and areas of archaeological and cultural significance and to identify previously unrecorded sites

At the time that this evaluation was carried out (2005) the survey area included another development proposal which has now been abandoned, and several aspects of the Maldie Burn proposal, including locations for temporary compounds, which have also been abandoned. The survey area is therefore much larger than required for the present Maldie Burn development, but the information on the whole area, including the archaeological sites, is included here. This is partly to avoid confusion about site numbers; the majority of sites no longer within the development area have been extracted into Appendix 2

2.0 The Maldie Burn Development

The proposed development consists of the following elements:

• A single intake at the outflow of Loch an Leathaid Bhuain at NC 2625 3520, raising the water level of the loch by approximately 2m • Buried pipeline and temporary access track from the intake to the turbine house • Turbine house at NC 2500 3400, on the east bank of the Maldie Burn, and tailrace discharging into the burn • Widening of present access track to the turbine site from Kylestrome and new section of track north of Kylestrome Lodge • Temporary construction compounds at the main intake site and east of the turbine house • Buried cable connection from Maldie intake, following the argocat track and stalkers path to a point east of the Bealaich nam Fiann, then cutting through Forest to the existing power line at Achfary

3.0 Area Description

The development is located to the north of Loch Glendhu and south of Loch More, and utilizes water which drains into Loch Glendhu via the Maldie Burn. The catchment area is the greater part of the high ground between Loch Glendhu and Loch More.

The area of the proposed development is for the most part defined as wild land, although it is a managed sporting estate, which also carries a small stock of sheep. For sporting and recreational purposes, a number of 19th century stalkers’ paths have been upgraded for argocat access, notably along the north shore of Loch Glendhu from Kylestrome Lodge, and, splitting from this track at Maldie, running up the west side of the Maldie Burn and rising steeply to meet a higher route from Kylestrome to Achfary.

All buildings presently in use by the estate are confined to Kylestrome, with the exception of a lodge and Mountain Bothy Association bothy at the head of Glendhu, and a fishermen’s hut on Loch Leathiad Bhuain. Achfary, a separately managed part of Reay estate, also contains a lodge, offices and estate workers houses.

4.0 Baseline Conditions

4.1 Archaeological Background

4.1.1 Sites with Statutory Protection

There are no Listed Buildings or Designed Landscapes within, or adjacent to, the area of this evaluation

There are two Scheduled Ancient Monuments in the wider area covered by this evaluation:

1. Broch, An Dun at NC 2170 341 SMR no. NC23SW0001, SAM Index 1833 2. Cairn at NC 21938 3422 SMR no. NC23SW0003, SAM Index 1800

4.1.2 Recorded Archaeological Sites

No systematic archaeological field survey had previously been carried out in the general area of Reay Forest. Some sites have been identified by the Ordnance Survey, others by TC Welsh, and others through evidence recorded by earlier map makers and added to the Sites and Monuments Record (SMR, now replaced by the Historic Environment Record, HER) as a desk-based exercise. There is therefore a high probability of unrecorded sites being located in this area

The following archaeological sites are recorded on the Highland Sites and Monuments Record as within or adjacent to the area of this evaluation:

• Building at NC 2160 3420 HER ref. MHG18821, SMR no. NC23SW0019 One unroofed building is recorded on the 1878 1st edition Ordnance Survey map at this location, which is down on the sea shore north of An Dun

• Two enclosed areas of cultivation at NC 2150 3450 HER ref. MHG41517, SMR no. NC23SW0021 Recorded on the 1st edition OS map

• Burial Ground at NC 21835 34820 HER ref. MHG31468, SMR no. NC23SW0025 A rectangular enclosure is recorded on the 1st edition OS map, although it is not named as a burial ground, nor is it defined on the 1969 OS 1:2500 Pathfinder map. It has been recorded in Cowper and Ross’s monuments survey

• Sheep pen at NC 2230 3505 SMR no. NC23NW0003 This structure is recorded but unnamed on the 1st edition OS map, and named as a sheep pen on the 1969 Pathfinder map.

• Building at NC 2270 3460 , HER ref. MHG18820SMR no. NC23SW0018 One unroofed building is recorded on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map at this location, which is north of the track within the present forestry.

• Maldie Burn, depopulated settlement at NC 2470 3420 HER ref. MHG12118, SMR no. NC23SW0002. The 1st edition OS map only records one unroofed building and one enclosure, but eighteen buildings and two enclosures have subsequently been noted. All these buildings lie to the west of the Maldie Burn

4.2 Summary of Settlement History and Cartographic Evidence

A more complete historical background is provided in Appendix 1

1. Achfary: Roy’s military survey of 1750s records two clusters of buildings, one on each side of the Allt Achadh Fairidh, with corn lands mostly south of the river. The northern clachan lies under the present buildings, while the southern clachan may have been removed entirely in the improvement of the fields between the road and Loch nan Ealachan. Cleared at an unknown date. One shepherd was resident there in 1841. The Duke of Westminster developed the settlement, building stables (dated 1853), offices and a laundry to service the nearby Lochmore Lodge. The Sutherland Coaching Company kept a house and stables there. By 1953 the population was large enough to support a school, which is still open. 2. Kylestrome: Roy records an unnamed township at the site of the present farm lands north of the lodge, and another small township, which he names Kylestrome, at the site of Galascaig, along the coast to the west. Cleared in 1808 when Charles Clarke added it to Glendhu sheep farm, and probably installed a shepherd. The 1841 census records one shepherd with his family and a female servant. The Admiralty map of 1846 records Old House of Kylestrome, which may have been the original tacksman’s house, up the Allt an Dubhaidh. To the west of this is a large rectangular enclosure and a long dyke or road, both of which can be traced on modern maps. Three buildings, enclosures and dykes are noted at the site of the present lodge, and the road runs from the ferry point on Eilean na Rainich, north towards . The Picts Tower (broch) is recorded, as is the fact that boats can pass at flow between Garbh Eilean and the mainland into Loch an Truister 3. Grianan/Maldie. Roy records the township on the high ground west of the Maldie Burn. Cleared in 1808 when Charles Clarke added it to the sheep farm. No record of any shepherd or forester living there, and no map evidence for any houses. The 1st edition OS map shows the fank and park east of the burn, a small fank within the township area west of the burn, and the track

4.3 Gazetteer of Archaeological Features and Sites

The following sites were noted during a rapid walk-over survey, carried out on 27-29th July and 8th November 2005

Kylestrome to Maldie Burn

1. Eilean na Rainich. Site of fishing station at NC 2290 3425. The western wing of the complex of standing buildings is a rubble-built storehouse, similar enough to the fish store at Rispond on Loch Eriboll, known to have been in existence in 1787, to be contemporary. An existing storehouse on Eilean na Rainich is known to have been leased to James Anderson in about 1775. If this is that building, it would be the oldest standing building in the area. It is two-storey, originally with an external stair which has now been removed. The south gable appears to have originally contained a flue, as the fireplace is still visible at the first floor level, but the chimney has been removed. A gable window opening has also been infilled. Although a modern building has been built on to the NE corner of the store, its original vents on the ground floor and window above survive. The neat stone shoring on the west wall probably dates to the late 19th century. There is an Ordnance Survey flush bracket, dating to later than 1920, in the SE corner of the building. To the north of the building, between it and the shore, are the low grassy footings of a second structure, sub-rectangular and measuring 3m by 5.5m. (Photos 1-4)

2. Wooden jetties, power house, at NC 2405 3425. Built c. 1929 by Edmundsons Electrical Corporation Ltd as part of Maldie hydro scheme to provide power to yacht. Fallen out of use by 1961. The east jetty is still marked on maps, but the jetties have mostly been destroyed. The power house, built in the Egyptian style, stands derelict and still contains some corroded remains of the turbine. A track leads down from the main track

3. Township: Grianan / Maldie at NC 2470 3420. Recorded on HER, MHG12118 as 18 stone-walled buildings and two enclosures, all west of the Maldie Burn. Features mostly obscured by bracken but include head dyke, corn kiln, long houses, original track alignment, cairns, rigs, as shown on modern mapping. The majority of the visible built features are scattered over the hill slope north of the coastal track, but a significant group occupy a level terrace immediately south of the track (Photos 5-9)

Features on Lower Maldie Burn

4. Boat Port NC 2495 3400 Located to the west of the outflow of Maldie Burn, a cleared port which is still used by the estate but could date originally to Early Modern settlement. (Photo no. 10)

5. Sheep wash at NC 2502 3408 Located on the west bank of the Maldie Burn, a drystone structure consisting of two converging walls which channel sheep into a pool in the burn, opposite the sheep fank on the east bank of the stream. A similar structure is located above Loch Glencoul; these probably date to the establishment of sheep farming. (Photos 11-14)

6. New bridge at NC 2510 3414. Built 2005 for re-aligned track, but in style of original bridge piers

7. Old bridge piers at NC 2511 3416. In existence probably by 1878 as recorded on OS 1st edition, pre-dating but located immediately in front of the present power house. (Photos 15, 16)

East of Maldie Burn

8. Power House, pipelines, intake c/o NC 2515 3420 Stone-built power house in the Egyptian style on the east bank of the Maldie Burn, original cast iron pipes and recent replacements both on concrete and rubble piers descending the hill. All features still in use apart from original pipeline immediately adjacent to recent replacement. Buried cable connection to Kylestrome recently put through Maldie/Grianan township (Photos 17-19)

9. Sheep Fank at NC 2508 3408. As recorded on the 1st edition OS map and probably dating to early 19th century, but appears to have been deliberately robbed of stone, possibly in the building of the turbine house. The robbed sections of walling are reduced to indistinct footings. Standard rectangular construction, divided into compartments but also incorporating the footings of a small rectangular building. This may be contemporary or may be an adapted earlier building associated with Grianan township (Photos 20-22)

10. Boat Port at NC 2498 3400 To the east of the outflow of the Maldie Burn, a broad cleared area which may date to the Early Modern township or may be contemporary with the nearby sheep fank. (Photo no. 23)

11. Park Dyke, rig cultivation c/o NC 251 340. Drystone dyking with turf caps enclosing a large area of former cornlands of the early modern settlement. The enclosure probably dates to 1818 when Charles Clarke obtained the tenancy of Maldie and added it to his sheep farm, and will be contemporary with the sheep fank (site 9) attached to its west side. Within the area enclosed by the dyke is a broad, poorly drained, peaty area where the traces of cultivation rigs are clearly visible. To the north and south is rising ground where at the break of slope are banks of field clearance stones, with piles of stones on the flank of the SE knoll. Beside a gateway in the north section of the wall are footings of a small building of uncertain age or function (Photos 24-30)

12. Head Dyke from NC 2513 3414 to NC 2530 3410 Turf and rubble dyke enclosing the corn lands associated with the early modern settlement of Maldie/Grianan (located within site 11) which rises obliquely from near the turbine house and terminates at a natural rock outcrop (Photo 31)

13. Peat track at NC 2525 3415. Slight traces of a track running NW across the slope of the hill. This track was used for access to the hydro intake and pipeline but may be an original peat track associated with the township of Maldie/Grianan.

14. Coastal track. The track to Glendhu, constructed before 1878 and now mostly upgraded, contains a few original features such as retaining walls and culverts

(Sites 15-55 are now contained in Appendix 2)

Features north of Maldie

56. Track at NC 255 347. The track rising from the coastal track at Maldie to meet the earlier Kylestrome- Achfary track is not recorded on the 1878 OS map, so was probably constructed as a stalkers path after 1878. It has now been entirely upgraded for argocat use and contains few original features.

57. Area of peat cuttings, centred on NC 2548 3456. A small area of peat banks probably abandoned after the Early Modern township of Grianan/Maldie was cleared at the end of the 18th century.

58. Stepping stones at NC 2590 3507. Although recorded on maps as stepping stones, this is a substantial rubble dam across the outflow of the lochan, which would have had an additional function of controlling water levels on the un- named lochan downstream from Loch an Leathaid Bhuain. (Photo no. 32)

59. Shielings, centred on NC 2583 3521. At least ten shieling huts with associated structures and field clearance. One hut, at NC 2590 3522, is immediately east of the track on a prominent knoll. Another, at NC 2591 3523, has already been slightly damaged by track widening. The other structures are set back from the track. A building is recorded at this location on modern maps, the base is still visible and was probably a sportsman’s hut made redundant by the new hut, (site 65). (Photos 33-38)

60. Two shielings at NC 2596 3526. Two small shieling-type structures immediately below the track. They are possibly a part of a larger group now destroyed by track widening .(Photo no.39)

61. Borrow pit at NC 2606 3532. Original borrow pit excavated during the construction of the stalkers path to remove material from a knoll of glacially deposited material. Unusable stones piled at the entrance to the quarry. (Photo no. 40)

62. Jetty at NC 2618 3533. Small rubble jetty or fisherman’s stance. Immediately south of the jetty is a semi- circular setting in the water, noted at other sites associated with sport fishing but of uncertain function, possibly a holding ‘tank’ for catch. (Photo 41)

63. Stepping stones at NC 2625 3522. A row of small placed stones across the outflow of the lochan, whose function appears to be stepping stones rather than management of water levels. (Photo 42)

64. Rearrangement in watercourse at NC 2623 3519. Set stones in the watercourse appear to define either a deliberate deepening of the channel or an attempt to provide stepping stones out into the stream. (Photo 43)

65. Hut, wooden jetty, pony pound at NC 2626 3542. Modern features, still in use.

66. Rubble jetty at NC 2625 3543. The remains of a rubble jetty with neat stone facing still extant on its south side. (Photo 44)

67. Two shieling huts at NC 2627 3551. One hut is on the steep hill slope immediately north of the track. The other is south of the track and partially obscured by material tumbled during recent track improvement.

68. Bridge at NC 2640 3701. Bridge at the beginning of the section of unimproved stalkers path to Achfary. This bridge was entirely rebuilt in 2005 in the original style but with concealed concrete lintels after damage to the original from heavy vehicles crossing. (Photos 45, 46)

69. Original stalkers path from NC 2640 3701. The Kylestrome-Achfary track was probably constructed soon after Grosvenor took the lease on Reay Forest and had Loch More Lodge constructed (1866) and was used in living memory for the delivery of mail to Kylestrome. The section from NC 2640 3701 to Lochmore Lodge is in its original state although worn. (Photos 47-51)

70. Cairn, Stalkers path from NC 2692 3784 to NC 2810 3690. A small cairn of quartzite stones marks the junction of a stalkers path which drops to the north end of Loch an Leathaid Bhuain. This path is overgrown and indistinct, and obviously unused, and the curve east of the top of the path indicates that it was intended to be approached from Lochmore Lodge. (Photo 52)

71. Bothy or Shelter at NC 2728 3847. A stalkers’ bothy and stables, constructed of quartzite blocks. It is uncertain whether this was roofed, although one small segment of corrugated iron was noted in the rubble, as it has no wall head on which to sit a roof frame, but rather copestones. Interior stalls with iron rings set into stones indicates its function as stabling. (Photos 53-60)

72. Stalkers’ path at NC 2730 3850. Junction with a path which leads NW to Ben Dreavie. The eastwards curve of the bottom of this track indicates that it was intended to be approached from Lochmore Lodge

73. Achfary and Lochmore Lodge, centred on NC 295 395 Early modern settlement, mid-19th century coaching post and stables, laundry, estate cottages etc, shooting lodge, occupy level ground west of Loch nan Ealachan

Kylestrome area

74. Building at NC 2160 3420 HER ref MHG18821, SMR no. NC23SW0019 One unroofed building is recorded on the 1878 1st edition Ordnance Survey map at this location, which is down on the sea shore north of An Dun. It was not investigated as it will not be affected by any aspect of the present development

75. Two enclosed areas of cultivation at NC 2150 3450 HER ref MHG41517, SMR no. NC23SW0021 Recorded on the 1st edition OS map. The present alignment of the A894 cuts through these enclosures. Apart from this, the turf-capped drystone dykes of the larger enclosure are mostly intact west of the road, together with a trackway which winds SW from the old public road. The dykes appear to be contemporary with the dykes at Maldie, and probably date to the establishment of the sheep farm. A circular structure noted on more modern maps is a recent cattle shelter. To the south of this enclosure, where the ground drops steeply to the shore, are a number of substantial field clearance piles. The boundaries of the northern, smaller enclosure are indistinct and it may never have been enclosed by a drystone dyke. A ditch forms the southern boundary and a stream the west, but in the corner of these two there is a short section of what may have been a turf dyke which originally continued SE. The ground within these enclosures, including the ground between them, is improved. (Photo 61)

76. Burial Ground at NC 21835 34820 HER ref. MHG31468 SMR no. NC23SW0025. A small drystone enclosure, containing seven inscribed gravestones, of which one is a table tomb, and at least 13 visible rough uninscribed grave markers. The enclosing dyke is probably mid to late 19th century in date, while the burial ground may have been in use for some centuries. (Photos 62-65)

77. Turf Dyke from NC 2182 3481 to NC 2183 3471. The indistinct line of a former turf and rubble dyke runs south from the corner of the burial ground to the estate road. It could not be discerned south of the road.

78. Sheep Enclosure at NC 2225 3483 A large sub-rectangular drystone dyke enclosure, as recorded on Burnett and Scott’s map of 1831-2, probably dating to the establishment of the sheep farm, and still in use as a sheep enclosure. The linear feature recorded on the same map appears to follow the same route as the estate road and may indicate a roadway rather than a dyke line (Photo no. 66)

79. Area of rig cultivation, centred on NC 2210 3470. Indistinct cultivation rigs on what is now wet ground, running SE and SW into a natural drain between two knolls. (Photo no. 67)

80. Sheepfank at NC 2235 3482. This structure is recorded on the 1st edition OS map, and on more recent maps, but has now been removed.

81. Old House of Kylestrome at NC 2248 3479. The substantial grass covered footings of a building on a prominent knoll, aligned approximately N-S and measuring roughly 11.5m by 5.5m. This is in the approximate location of the Old House of Kylestrome recorded on the Admiralty chart of 1846 and it appears to have been still roofed in 1878. It is likely to have been the tacksman’s house at Kylestrome superseded by the farmhouse built in the 1830s. To the north of the building are traces of field boundaries and field clearance cairns representing cultivation pre-dating the sheep farm. (Photo no. 68)

82. Kylestrome House, offices at NC 2213 3438. The original house, within many later additions, appears to be a simple 3-bay M- gable house similar to Scourie House, which has been dated to the 1830s. It is likely to originally have been built as a farmhouse for the Gunns, either for their own use or for a sheep farm manager, after their arrival in 1832. The original office buildings are likely to be contemporary. Dated additions to the house and new farm cottages constructed when the Duke of Westminster took the lease of Kylestrome (Photos 69-71)

83. Sheep pen at NC 2230 3505 SMR no. NC23NW0003. This structure is located within the forestry south of a recently constructed track. It is rectangular and partly dug into the bank, and appears to have been constructed to contain livestock rather than prevent them from entering the enclosure.

84. Building at NC 2270 3460 HER ref. MHG18820SMR no. NC23SW0018. One unroofed building is recorded on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey map at this location, which is north of the track within the present forestry. It will not be affected by the present development and was not visited.

Scheduled Ancient Monuments

85. Broch, An Dun at NC 2170 3411 HER ref. MHG12113, SMR no. NC23SW0001, SAM Index 1833. The broch is a prominent monument on a small tidal island, now connected to the mainland by a drystone dyke. The broch is so positioned as to have formerly commanded a clear view towards Garbh Eilean and Eilean na Rainich, but this is now curtailed by the construction of the raised road on the causeway between the mainland and Garbh Eilean leading to the Kylesku bridge. (Photos 72-74)

86. Cairn at NC 21938 34221 HER ref. MHG12119, SMR no. NC23SW0003, SAM Index 1800. The cairn is located on a small knoll on a SE-facing hill slope. Originally visible from the sea to the south and west, it is now cut off by the construction of the raised road on the causeway between the mainland and Garbh Eilean leading to the Kylesku bridge (Photo no. 75)

4.4 Summary of Archaeological Sites

The only prehistoric sites noted during the field survey are the two already recorded Scheduled Ancient Monuments: the cairn dating to the Neolithic period, and the broch dating to the Iron Age. It is probable that features of prehistoric cultivation and settlement have been overlain by later settlement, and that some features recorded as early modern, such as field boundaries and field clearance piles, actually date to prehistoric cultivation. More precise dating would only be ascertained through excavation

Early Modern Period: The following 11 sites date to the period up to the Clearances at the beginning of the 19th century. Although their end-date is known fairly precisely, the establishment of these settlements may date back to the Mediaeval period or earlier.

Sites 3, 12, 13, 57, 59, 60, 67, 76, 77, 79, 81.

Shoreline Features and Fishing: The following 3 sites are either directly associated with commercial fishing or with boat transport. The boat ports could date to any period from the Early Modern period to the present day

Sites 1, 4, 10

Sheep Farming: the following 10 sites were constructed and used during the period of sheep farming, from 1780 to 1886

Sites 5, 9, 11, 74, 75, 78, 80, 82, 83, 84

Sporting Estate: the following 19 sites were constructed and used for the purposes of deer stalking, fishing and management and access on the estate:

Sites 2, 6, 7, 8, 14, 56, 58, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73

5.0 Potential Impacts

5.1 Scheduled Ancient Monuments:

Broch, An Dun at NC 2170 3411, HER ref. MHG12113, SMR no. NC23SW0001, SAM Index 1833. This monument will not be affected, either directly or indirectly, by any feature, temporary or permanent, of the present scheme.

Cairn at NC 21938 34221, HER ref. MHG12119, SMR no. NC23SW0003, SAM Index 1800. This monument will not be affected, either directly or indirectly, by any feature, temporary or permanent, of the present scheme.

5.2 Archaeological Sites

The following sites, although investigated and recorded during this evaluation, will not be affected by the development:

Site 1. Eilean na Rainich. Site of fishing station at NC 2290 3425. Site 2. Wooden jetties, power house, at NC 2405 3425. Site 4. Boat Port at NC 2495 3400 Site 5. Sheep wash at NC 2502 3408 Site 6. New bridge at NC 2510 3414. Site 7. Old bridge piers at NC 2511 3416. Site 8. Power House, pipelines, intake c/o NC 2515 3420 Site 10. Boat Port at NC 2498 3400 Site 56. Track at NC 255 347. Site 58. Stepping stones at NC 2590 3507 Site 59. Shielings, centred on NC 2583 3521. Site 60. Two shielings at NC 2596 3526. Site 61. Borrow pit at NC 2606 3532. Site 69. Bridge at NC 2640 3701. Site 71. Bothy or Shelter at NC 2728 3847. Site 73. Achfary and Lochmore Lodge, centred on NC 295 395 Site 74. Building at NC 2160 3420 Site 75.Two enclosed areas of cultivation at NC 2150 3450 Site 76. Burial Ground at NC 21835 34820 Site 77. Turf Dyke from NC 2182 3481 to NC 2183 3471. Site 78. Sheep Enclosure at NC 2225 3483 Site 79. Area of rig cultivation, centred on NC 2210 3470. Site 80. Sheepfank at NC 2235 3482. Site 81. Old House of Kylestrome at NC 2248 3479. Site 82. Kylestrome House, offices at NC 2213 3438. Site 83. Sheep pen at NC 2230 3505 Site 84. Building at NC 2270 3460

The following sites lie within or adjacent to areas of work connected with the Maldie scheme and may be adversely affected:

Site 3 Township: Grianan / Maldie at NC 2470 3420. The present track passing through the township area requires widening and the addition of passing places. This may have an impact on the built structures located immediately south of the track

Site 9. Sheep Fank at NC 2508 3408. This site is adjacent the site of the proposed power station. It may be damaged or partially removed by construction work

Site 11. Park Dyke rig cultivation c/o NC 251 340. Sections of the west and north pars this dyke will be removed to allow for the construction of the power station, pipeline connection and access track. The area of rig cultivation within the dyke is designated as the location of a site compound

Site 12. Head Dyke. This feature will be cut through by the pipeline and access track

Site 13. Peat track. This ephemeral feature is likely to be damaged during the laying of the pipeline and construction of the temporary access track.

Site 14, Coastal Track. The track between Kylestrome and the Maldie Burn will be widened and improved. This may further remove any original features of the 19th century track which may survive more recent improvement.

Site 57 Area of peat cuttings, centred on NC 2548 3456. The access road and pipeline between the intake and the power house will pass through this area.

The following sites will be destroyed during the construction of the dam intake on the outflow of Loch an Leathaid Bhuain:

Site 63. Stepping stones at NC 2625 3522. Site 64. Rearrangement in watercourse at NC 2623 3519.

The following sites will be inundated if the water level of Loch an Leathaid Bhuain is raised by 2m:

Site 62. Jetty at NC 2618 3533. Site 65. Hut, wooden jetty pony pound at NC 2626 3542. Site 66. Rubble jetty NC 2625 3543.

The following sites lie within the general route of the cable connection between Maldie and Achfary, and may be adversely affected:

Site 67. Two shieling huts at NC 2627 3551. These structures have been partially damaged during the upgrading of the track, and may be further damaged by the insertion of the cable. Site 69. Stalkers path from NC 2640 3701. It is likely that this attractive section of the original 19th century stalkers path will be upgraded by the estate. Damage to it from the laying of the cable will depend on whether this is laid into the track or to one side Site 70. Cairn, stalkers path from NC 2692 3784 to NC 2810 3690. These features are located on the south side of the main path, and are likely to be damaged both by the upgrading of the track and the laying of the cable if it runs along the south side of the track. Site 72. Stalkers path at NC 2730 3850. This feature lies to the north of the main track, and is likely to be partly damaged both by the upgrading of the track and by the laying of the cable.

6.0 Proposed Mitigations

6.1 Area of Power House

The greatest damage to the archaeological record will occur in the area of the power station, tailrace, access track and site compound west of the Maldie Burn. Most of the archaeological features here date to the early 19th century and the development of sheep farming, although there are residual remains of earlier land use, in the form of field clearance and rig cultivation. The structure of the sheep fank, site no. 9, has the appearance of having been almost completely robbed of its stone, probably in the construction of the present turbine house. The drystone walls and fank are not unique, as other examples of contemporary walling survive at Kylestrome and Glendhu.

Avoidance of damage to all of these features is not a practical option, as a large area east of the stream is required for construction purposes. It is debatable whether any further information on the sites would be gained by the carrying out of archaeological monitoring during ground-breaking work. It may be advisable to carry out a measured and photographic survey before work commences, It is recommended that as much as possible of the park dyke is reinstated in its original style in areas of temporary use during the construction phase.

6.2 Intake to Power House

The pre-improvement head dyke and peat track will be cut through by the access track and pipeline, but no mitigation measures are recommended.

The turbine house and overground pipeline of the existing system will become redundant once the new scheme is installed. It is recommended that these structures be retained for historical interest. The exception would be the sections of pipeline themselves, which, as they degrade, would present a potential danger to visitors and livestock, but the stone piers on which they run could be retained within the landscape.

6.3 Intake and Area of Inundation

Some minor features, all interpreted as being associated with sporting activity of the late 19th century onwards, will be destroyed in the construction of the dam and intake, or inundated by the rising water levels of Loch an Leathaid Bhuain. No mitigation is recommended

6.4 Cable Connection to Achfary

Some features associated with sporting activity of the late 19th century onwards may be damaged during insertion of the cable. The original stalkers path is an attractive feature in the landscape and it would be preferable to retain it in its present condition, but the estate is likely to undertake upgrading.

6.5 Upgrade of Access between Kylestrome and Maldie

The upgrading of the present access track will involve widening and insertion of passing places. This may damage some built features of Grianan township, but consultation before work commences will reduce the damage by informing the location of passing places in neutral areas and the limitation of widening adjacent to buildings. Visible features of the township can be marked within exclusion zones to prevent accidental damage.

Catherine Dagg 2, Ruigh’Riabhach Scoraig Peninsula Dundonnell Wester Ross IV23 2RE 9.9.11

Appendix 1. Historical Background

Early History

There is a reference to a place named Myrhvafiordum where in the 12th century one Suenus son of Aileif attacked and killed Odranus Gillius and fifty men. The Norse Myrkvifiord, or the ‘loch of the dark glen’ does appear to correspond to the Gaelic Loch Glendubh.

The Reay Forest, which originally extended from Loch Glencoul in the south to the north coast, formed the traditional hunting forests of the Lords of Reay, chiefs of the clan MacKay. In the 17th century Sir Robert Gordon described the forest:

‘All these forrests and schases are verie profitable for feiding of bestiall and delectable for hunting. They are full of reid-deir and roes, woulffs, foxes, wyld catts, brocks, skuyrells, whittrets, weasels, otters, martrixes, hares and fumarts. In these forests, and in all this province, there is a great store of partridges, pluivers, capercalegs, blackwaks, murefowls, heth-hens, swanes, bewters, turtle doves, herons, dowes, steares or starlings, lairigigh or knag (which is a fould like unto a paroket or parret, which makes place for her nest with her beck in the oak trie), duke, draig, widgeon, teale, wild grouse, ringhouse, routs, whaips, shot-whaips, woodcock, larkes, sparrows, snyps, blackburds, or osills, meireis, thrushes, and all other kind of wild-fowle and birds, which are to be had in any pairt of this kingdom’

Use of the land for settlement, cultivation and grazing would have been restricted to the coast and the straths, with limited access to the high ground for seasonal shielings.

There is no documentary evidence for the post-mediaeval population which for centuries utilized the narrow band of better ground east of the narrows and at the head of Loch Glendhu. There would almost certainly have been small settlements of subtenants at these places. General Roy’s military survey of the 1750s, the first reasonably accurate map of settlement and land use, records a small area of cultivated ground west of the Maldie Burn and a township named Greanan, but records nothing at the head of the loch, probably because he did not visit it. He also confuses the names of the islands in the narrows, giving I. Garvelin to the north and I. Inneranich to the south. An Grianan (G. the sunny spot) survives as a topographical name at the top of the slope between Kylestrome and Rannich and appears to have been the original name of the township. As late as 1842 there is a reference to the ‘ferry to Grinan, in Eddrachillis’ and John Thomson’s map of 1823 names Grenan as well as Glendow, although this was undoubtedly some years after the township was cleared

The place name Maldie crops up in an account of a stand off between The MacLeods and the Morrisons, Donald MacLeod was returning from with reinforcements while the Morrisons prepared to meet and fight them as soon as they entered the country:

‘Both parties were ready for an engagement in a place called Maldy, when Sir Hugh MacKay of Farr presented himself to them, upon the top of a hill hard by, with 300 men, and finding how matters stood, immediately called both before him to a conference in order to an accommodation, which none of them durst refuse’

The matter was settled peacefully. This incident must have taken place in the late 16th century, as Hugh MacKay succeeded his father Aodh in 1572, and begs the question whether MacLeod had brought his men laboriously round by land, or whether a ferry crossing to Maldie/Grianan was in common use. The ferry definitely crossed to Isle Rannich at the narrowest point by the late 18th century, and black cattle were swum across the narrows on the drove south, although the tidal current was at times considerable.

Fishing

The Old Statistical Account for Eddrachillis mentions that Loch Glendhu was much frequented by herring and states:

‘There has not only been a greater quantity of fish killed on the coast of this parish, for some years past, than on the coast of any other place in the Highlands, but more herring than what have been killed on all of the coasts of all of the Highlands put together. Here there is no person whose sole business is fishing, consequently no fish is sold, excepting herring, yet everyman is a fisher and fishes for himself.’

In 1775 the tutors of Lord Reay gave a 21 year lease of the salmon fishings to T and J Arbuthnot, merchants from Peterhead, and their local manager, James Anderson, who had received a lease of various coastal farms and a storehouse on Island Rannich, to pursue the herring and cod fisheries. Island Rannich was found to be inconvenient and Anderson moved to Rispond on Loch Eriboll in 1787.

The herring industry was initially not reliable and, without a merchant to buy the catch and cure it with imported salt, the fisherman would not rely on it. The OSA (1793) states: ‘our creeks and harbours were full of the finest fish, and there was none to take them; for as the inhabitants had no salt for curing and could find no buyers, they desisted from killing them’ However, in the early 19th century, the industry expanded. It is possible that Charles Clarke, known to have been a fish curer and one of the few people with the capital to import the necessary salt, was instrumental in building up the reputation of Loch Glendhu: ‘Loch Glendhu and Loch Glencoul are no less celebrated for the quantity and quality of their herrings than for their singular wildness’ In 1829 it was estimated that the value of herrings caught in Loch Glendhu was £30,000 and up to 100 herring buses were visiting the loch. On the other hand, Lord Teignmouth, writing in 1836, noted:

‘The people of this neighbourhood have suffered from the unfortunate caprice of the herrings, which formerly frequented the kyle, giving employment, twenty years ago, sometimes to 200 fishing vessels, and often to 60 or 70 since that period. But those fish have since entirely forsaken this part of the coast. The lobsters which abound here are carried off by the Orkneymen, who take them in boats of 14ft keel, and sell them to the smacks’

The New Statistical Account, written in the 1840s, noted that ‘it is to be regretted that the cod and ling fisheries are not more prosecuted. The natives are excellent herring fishers but too lax as to the other.’

As late as 1900 Evander Maciver wrote ‘there has been the heaviest take of fine large herring in Glendhu and Loch Laxford that has occurred since I came here in 1845. It has enriched many; the large Caithness boats, double the size they were in your time, all decked and many with steam engines….made from £30 to £70 a night’

As well as providing food for the table, fishing provided an income for families cleared to the overcrowded coast to make way for sheep, but the greater profits were made by boats from outwith the parish, whose crews would come for the season. Archaeological investigation of other important areas of herring fishing through the 19th century, without a convenient town and harbour, such as Loch Huorn and Loch Torridon show these crews building themselves bothies along the shore, as well as clearing ports to bring their boats safely ashore and carrying out small scale curing.

Sheep Farming and the Clearances

By the mid 18th century the local tacksmen were taking the initiative in introducing sheep farming and displacing the subtenants. In 1780 Glendhu, with Glencoul, was let as a sheep farm by Lord Reay to MacKay of Bighouse, who sublet it to Colin MacDairmid from Argyll. Colin was connected to the MacKays by marriage, and as well as sheep, traded in cattle and was involved in the herring fishing. He went bankrupt in 1793, ‘partly from inadvertency, and, the times being hard, unfortunate’ and was replaced by Alexander Campbell, also from Argyll, who died in 1799. MacDairmid had held a stock of 600 ewes, Campbell 800.

In 1801 the farm was let to Charles Clarke, formerly tacksman at Clashneach near Durness, at a rent of £140 per annum. Clarke is probably responsible for the building of the mansion house at Glendhu as well as cottages for the shepherds for his increasing stock, and the large drystone enclosure. This enclosure is recorded on Burnett and Scott’s map of 1831-2. In 1808 he was granted the tenancies of Mavidy (Maldie, or Grianan) and Kylestrome, but the annual rent went up from £140 to £380 and then to £480. By 1815 the end of his 15 year tenancy was approaching and he had to agree to an annual rent of £1400 for the next five years, until 1820, and thereafter £1600 until 1830 which would be the end of the next 15 year lease.

What became of the original population of Glendhu, and later of Grianan and Kylestrome, cleared by Clarke, is not recorded, but it is likely that they were mostly settled in Scourie and encouraged to take up fishing and kelp manufacture. It is possible that only one part of Kylestrome was taken on by Clarke, as a gravestone in the burial ground at Kylestrome records one Donald Mackay, who died in 1825 as having been tenant at Kylestrome

In 1818 Clarke stretched himself still further by taking the tenancies of Little Assynt, Achmore, Cromalt, Unapool and Kirkton in Assynt on the Neighbouring Sutherland Estate. In the summer of 1818 the painter William Daniell arrived at Glendhu in the course of his journey around the coast of Britain. He recorded his visit to Glendhu and the hospitality of Clarke in his diary:

‘Mr Gunn having procured a boat at Unapool, the excursion was pursued to Glendhu, the residence of Mr Clarke, a gentleman grazier, who rents an extensive sheep farm of Lord Reay. It is estimated that the number of sheep maintained on this property amounts to twelve or fourteen thousand. A letter of introduction from his lordship procured a most kind and hospitable reception; and the comforts and elegancies that abounded in Mr Clarke’s mansion formed a very striking contrast to the cheerless gloom of its environs. This place is rightly called Glendhu, or the dark glen; for it is situated at the narrow termination of the loch, where the rocks on either side, though not very lofty, totally exclude the surface of its waters from the sun during three months in the year, and the house itself remains without a glimpse of his beams during the same period. Even the glorious light of summer seems to greet these haunts with a reluctant and quickly fading smile; and during the long tedious winter months they are doomed to receive little more than an alternation of twilight and darkness; so that if the votaries of melancholy were seeking where to erect a temple to their goddess, they would find few sites more appropriate than the sunless bosom of Glendhu. Admitting that the moral temperament is strongly swayed by the influence of circumstance, what, it may be asked, is the habitual state of mind to which the inhabitants of this sequestered abode are reduced? A susceptible imagination might picture them moping about in hypochondriac fretfulness or counting, in sad serenity, the silent hours of a vegetative existence. Some such apprehensions might have been floating in the mind on approaching Mr Clarke’s house: but they were dispelled by the experience of a single evening passed under its hospitable roof. Himself a man of enterprise and activity, he finds in the various concerns of his farm occupation which affords him a just relish for domestic enjoyment, and his fireside is enlivened by a family of sons and daughters who are not in want of agreeable and useful resources to make the time pass pleasantly away: books, music and conversation afford them a variety of amusement, and the social circle is at times enlarged by the accession of a few occasional visitants who never fail to experience a friendly and cordial welcome. Of physical comforts, or what may be understood to be the materiel of a household, there is abundant supply, which is procured with little trouble, as the contiguous loch affords the conveniency of water carriage.

Unfortunately Daniell did not record Glendhu in a sketch, and left the next day to travel overland to Eriboll.

The next few years saw the end of the Napoleonic wars and an end to the boom years of sheep farming. Like several other farmers, Clarke went bankrupt in 1823. The Edinburgh Gazetter records that Charles Clarke ‘in Glendow, cattle dealer, and fish curer in the County of Sutherland’ was sequestrated on 23rd October 1823. He went to live at Oldney near Scourie and died there in 1831.

In 1829 the Reay estate was bought by the Sutherland family, who let Glendhu sheep farm in 1832 to the brothers William and James Gunn from Caithness. William resided at Glendhu but James returned to Caithness to farm Greenland. The rent was initially £1395, but this was reduced to £1085 as sheep prices fell. In 1841, however, the time of the first census return, James, not William was resident at Glendhu, together with a manservant, a maidservant and two house servants. Also at Glendhu were three other households: two shepherds and their families and a single woman. This indicates four separate habitable houses in 1841. The census also records a shepherd resident at Kylestrome and another at Achfary. Later valuation rolls also indicate that the Gunns were renting the grazing of Isle Rannich. The Admiralty chart of 1846-7 records two houses and the enclosure at Glendhu; the houses are marked ‘Foxhunter’s (to the west) and ‘Shepherd’s’ (within the enclosure)

William Gunn farmed at Glendhu for thirty years until he was killed in an accident at Kylestrome in 1864. In that time his capital had grown from £500 to £25000. After his death his brother James took his nephew John Gunn as partner, but John died at Kylestrome a young man, sometime after 1875, and a manager was employed. The valuation roll of 1885-6 lists Jno. Thomson as farm manager resident at Glendhu, together with a ploughman, six shepherds and two boatmen. In the hands of the manager the farm began to lose money and when James was offered a new lease at a rent of £800 in 1886 he refused to take it. Nobody else came forward to take on the tenancy and the landlord, the Duke of Sutherland, had to take over the sheep stock. Glendhu was run for a year by the estate but the sheep were then removed and the 35000 acres of Glendhu were let as a deer forest to the Duke of Westminster.

The Deer Forest

Earl Grosvenor, who became the Duke of Westminster in 1874, had long taken an interest in the Reay area, following a visit in 1847. Staying at Dunrobin at the time, he was invited by the Duke of Sutherland to make and excursion to the remote and recently built Gobernuisgach Lodge. Three years later he had built Lochstack Lodge and was the first person to journey along the completed Lairg to Laxford road. Earl Grosvenor subsequently took a lease on the whole of the Reay forest, including Stack, Arkle, Foinaven, Gobernuisgach and Ben Hee. He gradually increased the size of the small house at Loch More, built between 1856 and 1866 by a Mr Reid, which became his base, and he was responsible for many other improvements including the building of the stables, offices and laundry at Achfary, and new houses on the estate for stalkers. He appears to have also been responsible for the building of the stalkers paths through the forests as a measure to relieve poverty during the potato famine. Evander MacIver recollected: ‘there are now upward of fifty miles of paths through the Reay and Glendhu forests, all in consequence of the stimulus to improvements in communication created by the potato disease visitation.’ MacIver also noted:

‘The Duke of Westminster at once set agoing at his own cost an addition to the house at Kylestrome, improved the garden and offices, built a larder, laundry and gardener’s house, improved three shepherds’ houses for foresters, made paths and erected a wire fence to separate the forest from Duartbeg and the Scourie tenants’ pasture, connected Lochmore with Kylestrome by a path, built cottages near Kylestrome for ploughmen and labourers, a pier at Glencoul and one at Glendhu and made this forest as complete and convenient with houses and paths, etc as he had formerly made the Reay forest. His Grace was at first much disinclined to take Glendhu, and when I first recommended it to his notice, considered it absurd, but he now finds it an excellent forest, and with the advantage of the sea being so close to Kylestrome Lodge, it has become his favourite residence and resort during the shooting season.’

Westminster installed foresters (stalkers) at Glendhu and Kylestrome. John Elliot was the first forester at Kylestrome, followed by William Elliot. In 1915 Matthew Elliot is forester at Kylestrome and William at Glendhu. In 1925 John D. Elliot was at Glendhu. He continued to live there, with his family, until 1960, Willy Elliot, now living in Achfary, was the last child to be born at Glendhu.

The Hydro-Electric Scheme

Evander MacIver noted in his memoirs in 1915 that the duke kept a small steam yacht, useful to carry sportsmen to the beats of Glendhu and Glencoul. The yacht was generallty anchored in a sheltered bay immediately below Kylestrome Lodge. Around 1929 the Edmundsons Electricity Corporation Ltd, a company which installed electrical generation in the more remote areas of Britain, was instructed by Westminster to install the hydro electric scheme on the Maldie Burn, in order to power the yacht. To this end two wooden jetties were constructed, both about 8’ wide in the body, with enlarged portions 16’ wide at the lower end. The estate failed to go through the official channels, which led to a correspondence with the Crown Estate and a retrospective lease agreement, dated Lammas 1929, to run for 21 years at an annual rent to the crown of £1. Westminster also frequently failed to pay this £1 rent, which led to further correspondence. By 1961 the jetties had fallen out of use and were in a state of disrepair. A coastguard report, dated 24 May 1961 observed:

‘Both jetties are unfit for use and do not appear to have been used for at least a year. Only a few supports of the western one remain. These are falling apart and rotting away at the base. About 40’ of the eastern (main) jetty remains, the end having completely disappeared. The base of the remains is solid, but many surface planks are broken or missing’

Appendix 2 Additional Survey areas

Features between Maldie and Glendhu

15. Boat Ports at NC 2538 3322. An area of cleared shoreline and boulder rows immediately to the east of the park dyke. (Photo no. 76) 16. Boat ports at NC 2640 3371. Two adjacent cleared ports a short distance to the west of the Allt a’ Mhuilinn (Photo no. 77) 17. Allt a’ Mhuilinn at NC 2653 3377. The Gaelic translates as the stream of the mill, and is a common place name for a small, horizontal mill of the type the early modern settlement would have used. However, there is no trace of any structure on the stream, nor would the stream have enough run of water to power a horizontal mill 18. Boat port at NC 2685 3380. One cleared port, associated with the enclosure and building, sites 19 and 20 (Photo no. 78) 19. Turf and Rubble Dyke from NC 2685 3381 to NC 2698 3399. This dyke marks one side of an alluvial fan, the other side bounded by a small stream, which has probably been cultivated. Some traces of field clearance to the west of the fan, above the building, site 20. 20. Building at NC 2690 3384. A substantial drystone building, dug into the bank to the north, and with an entrance in the centre of the south wall. (Photo no. 79)

Features West of Glendhu

22. Iron Fence at NC 2787 3388. Iron fenceposts, dating to late 19th or early 20th century, possibly as early as the end of the sheep farming period. James Gunn gave up the tenancy in 1886. 23. Area of peat cuttings c/o NC 2750 3423. A large area of former peat cutting, probably used over a long period from the Early Modern settlement to the end of sheep farming. (Photo no. 80) 24. Peat track from NC 2782 3407 to NC 2812 3384. A constructed track, still used for access to the high ground, terminating to the NW at the beginning of the peat cutting area. The SE end is indistinct, but aerial photographs suggests it turns sharply south to join the coastal track. (Photo no. 81) 25. Turf and Rubble Dyke from NC 2790 3388 to NC 2811 3409. This appears to be an Early Modern feature, which would extend the boundaries of the original township at Glendhu to include this high ground. No turf head dyke was noted near to the present buildings at Glendhu. (Photo no. 82) 26. Sheepfold at NC 2802 3399. Marked as a sheepfold on modern maps. This is a sub-rectangular drystone structure with wings extending east to provide shelter. The dimensions of the rectangular structure are comparable with a dwelling, and this may be an isolated house of the Early Modern period converted for use as a sheep shelter. Sheep shelters in Sutherland dating to the early 19th century are more typically circular, and this structure is too small to have been used as a fank or dip. (Photo no. 83) 27. Enclosure at NC 2826 3374. Immediately north of the track, west of the burn is a small irregularly-shaped enclosure of turf and rubble walling, set against a large boulder (Photo no. 84)

Glendhu

28. Standing Buildings: a. Mountain Bothy Association Bothy at NC 2831 3373. Rebuilt or re-roofed in 1888 when Grosvenor took on the tenancy of Glendhu (date on skewputt), it stands on the same footprint as the cottage recorded in 1878 on the 1st edition OS map, including the attached small sub-rectangular drystone enclosure. Corresponds to the Fox Hunter’s cottage marked on the Admiralty chart of 1846-7. (Photo no. 85) b. Stables at NC 2832 3371. Although undated, probably renovated at the same time as the bothy, as skewputts are identical. Attached to the west gable are kennels, and the drystone enclosure to the east and south contains a small sheep dip. (Photo no. 86) c. Lodge at NC 2840 3367 . Modern renovation. The 1st edition OS map indicates two adjacent buildings on this site, the western being L-shaped. The small drystone enclosure attached to the north is contemporary with these buildings. The Admiralty chart of 1846- 7 records one building, a shepherd’s cottage. (Photo no. 87) 29. Enclosure, centred on NC 2840 3373. Drystone walling enclosing the improved ground of the alluvial fan at Glendhu, including a section of wall along the shoreline which has been removed by recent winter storms but is booked to be reinstated. The 1831 Burnett and Scott map indicates an enclosure around the house, as does the Admiralty chart of 1846-7. As William and James Gunn did not acquire the tenancy until 1832, this feature must date to the tenancy of Charles Clarke, 1801-24. There is a sheep creep at the north corner of the enclosure, which presumably was originally gated. (Photo no. 88) 30. Building, footings at NC 2830 3375. Low grassy banks outlining a rectangular building, measuring approximately 12m by 5m and aligned N-S. Immediately south of this are similar grassy footings of a structure of indeterminate dimensions. Possibly these buildings pre-date the sheep farm and are the remains of the Early Modern township or farmstead (Photo no. 89) 31. Quarry at NC 2830 3377. Located west of the stream, an excavation into the bank with tailings at the entrance appears to be a quarry. 32. Field Clearance Bank at NC 2847 3378. An oval bank of field clearance stones, possibly on the footings of a structure (Photo no. 90) 33. Stone setting at NC 2849 3381 Possibly stones removed for field clearance. 34. Field Clearance bank at NC 2849 3381 North of the main drystone enclosure, a low bank of field clearance stones running 6m down the hill slope. These three features, sites 32-34, appear to represent land use pre-dating the sheep farm. 35. Area of Field Clearance Piles centred on NC 2851 3370. Within the main drystone enclosure are a large number of substantial, well-built field clearance piles. These do not appear typical clearance piles of Early Modern settlements and may date to the early sheep farming period, when crops would still be grown. The piles do not appear to have been robbed to provide material for the drystone dyke, although they would have been an easy source of stone, which suggests a date later than the dyke. There are no similar piles outside the dyke. (Photo no. 91)

Features along shoreline at Glendhu

36. Jetty, port, noust, track at NC 2817 3371. Well-built stone jetty, probably 19th century although it is not recorded on the 1st edition OS map. Immediately east of this is the cleared area and boulder row of a boat port, and dug into the bank a boat noust. A track leads up from the jetty to the coastal track. (Photo no. 92) 37. Track along shore. Running below the shoreline drystone dyke is a cleared trackway. This may be a fairly modern feature to avoid driving in front of the lodge, or may be an earlier feature providing access for carts to the foreshore to allow, for example the unloading of fish or the emptying of the yair. (Photo no. 93) 38. Stone piles at NC 2857 3358. Two irregularly-shaped stone piles on the foreshore below the high tide line. Similar piles have been noted at low tide at Loch Torridon and are assumed to have a function in the unloading of fish catches from boats. (Photo no. 94) 39. Yair from NC 2851 3356 to NC 2856 3348. A V-shaped fish trap, defined by low rubble walling which would originally have supported wattle fencing to catch salmon trapped by the falling tide. Although this technique is old, similar large- scale yairs on Loch Broom are known to have been constructed at the beginning of the 19th century. This is therefore likely to have belonged to Charles Clarke, who is described in 1823 as a fish curer. (Photo no. 95)

Features up strath of Glendhu, north of river

40. Track. The original stalkers path up the strath has recently been upgraded for argocat use, from Glendhu lodge to approximately NC 3040 3285. This section contains virtually no original features, with the exception of site 42. 41. Bridge at NC 2878 3341. A wooden bridge on rubble piers, probably contemporary with similar bridge piers at Maldie and recorded on the 1878 1st edition OS map. 42. Ford at NC 2898 3346. Laid stones in the stream bed to provide a shallow crossing point, a feature of the original stalkers path. 43. Cruive at NC 2909 3343. A V-shaped dam in the river, the north part being the original rubble walling, while the south part has been replaced by loose rubble in wire cageing. (Photo no. 96) 44. Walling and iron bolts at NC 2914 3342. A section of mortared rubble walling, less than 1m long with three iron bolts set into the concrete cap. Of unknown function, possibly the remains of some form of bridge across the river. (Photo no. 97) 45. Cruive at NC 2927 3331. A V-shaped dam. The section on the north bank is the original double row of facing stones with rubble fill. On the south bank only a small part of the original walling survives immediately east of the modern rubble-filled wire baskets. (Photo no. 98) 46. Turf Dyke from NC 2930 3335 to NC 2940 3328. A section of turf and rubble dyke immediately south of the track. This may be the surviving part of a longer feature overlaid by the widened track. 47. Shielings and turf dyke at NC 2950 3310, HER ref. MHG12961, SMR no. NC23SE0007. Occupying the improved ground bounded to the north by the track and to the south by the river is a group of three oval shieling huts with the raised platforms of further possible structures, small storage structures and field clearance piles. A turf and rubble dyke runs NW from the river then turns sharply south towards the largest and most prominent of the structures (Photo no. 99)

Features up strath of Glendhu, south of river

48. Drystone enclosure centred on NC 2917 3335. Stone-coped drystone enclosure on an area of improved pasture. This feature is not recorded on the 1st edition OS map, so post-dates 1878 but would appear to be associated with sheep and must have been constructed before the estate was given over to deer forest in 1887. (Photo no. 100) 49. Site of sheepfank at NC 2920 3334. A square sheep fank is recorded at this location on the 1878 OS map, but must have been completely dismantled in the construction of the drystone enclosure, as there is now no trace of this feature. 50. Turf dyke from NC 2912 3339 to NC 2917 3332. This dyke is crossed by the later drystone wall, and probably represents land use associated with the Early Modern settlement at Glendhu. (Photo no. 101)

Features at east end of track

51. Shielings, turf dyke, centred on NC 3068 3307. On the steep slope to the north of the track are at least four small oval shieling structures, with associated stone rows and piles, and a section of turf and rubble dyke, probably truncated by the track. (Photo no. 102) 52. Shielings, centred on NC 3090 3300, SMR no. NC33SW0001. Recorded as five shieling bothies, with later enclosure built onto the base of the cliff. A sunken rectangular structure close to the track at NC 3088 3305 is also possibly later. The majority of the oval shieling huts are on slight knolls. Set against the base of the cliff, as well as later walling, are small circular storage structures typical of shieling sites. (Photo no. 103) 53. Stalkers path, north, from NC 3097 3293 to NC 3088 3181. This track branches off the main track and climbs steeply up the hill before terminating adjacent to a small lochan. It has well-constructed culverts.(Photo no. 104) 54. Stalkers path, south, from NC 3097 3293 to NC 3184 3192. This path climbs steeply to the hills to the south. It has constructed fords, consisting of paving laid in the stream bed, at NC 3088 3305 and NC 3150 3251. (Photos 105, 106) 55. Footbridge at NC 3098 3293. Wooden bridge on mortared stone piers. This is a different style from the bridge piers at Maldie and Glendhu and indicates that, while this is contemporary with the stalkers path, the others are of earlier construction. (Photo 107)

Appendix 3. Photographic Archive (Digital)

Photo no. Site no. Description Viewpoint 1 1 Building interpreted as 18th century fish store. Exterior view From S showing site of removed stair to upper storey. Modern building attached to right 2 1 West exterior wall of fish store, showing 19th century buttresses From NW 3 1 Interior of fish store south gable, fireplace on upper floor From NE 4 1 Flush bracket on wall of fish store 5 3 General view of area of Grianan settlement. Building footings are From NE scattered on both sides of the track 6 3 Grianan township: corn kiln From SW 7 3 Grianan township: platform at west end of long building south of From N track 8 3 Grianan township, group of buildings below coastal track From SW 9 3 Marker cairn at west boundary of township From NE 10 4 Cleared boat port west of Maldie Burn From SE 11 5 Sheep wash on west bank of Maldie Burn From NE 12 5 Sheep wash From E 13 5 Sheep wash From SE 14 5 Sheep wash From W 15 7 Rubble pier of first bridge over Maldie Burn, on east bank From W 16 7 Rubble pier on west bank From E 17 8 Power house constructed in 1929 and still in use, west side and From SW tailrace 18 8 Pipelines descending to power house on east side of Maldie Burn. From NW Note first, cast iron pipes immediately behind recent replacements 19 8 Pipelines, overground section on rubble piers From W 20 9 Footings of building associated with sheep fank From N 21 9 Gateway into sheep fank From E 22 9 Sheep creep into sheep fank From W 23 10 Cleared boat port east of Maldie Burn From N 24 11 Park dyke, detail of stonework From W 25 11 Park dyke running SW towards sheep fank From NE 26 11 Park dyke with area of rig cultivation behind From W 27 11 Area of rig cultivation now within park From SE 28 11 Area of rig cultivation From SW 29 11 Footings of small building adjacent to north section of park dyke From S 30 11 Area of rig cultivation From N 31 12 Turf dyke running up hill behind park dyke From SW 32 58 ‘Stepping stones’ across outflow of small un-named lochan From E 33 59 Shieling immediately beside track and possibly truncated by From S recent widening 34 59 Shieling hut foundations 35 59 General view across area of shielings, including structures above From NE grassy patch on upper right 36 59 Shieling structure attached to large boulder From E 37 59 Same shieling structure as 36 From S 38 59 Shieling huts upstream at westernmost point of group From E 39 60 Shieling huts below track From W 40 61 Borrow pit east of track From NW 41 62 Jetty of fishing stance and semi-circular stone setting, possibly From W fish holding tank 42 63 Stepping stones across outflow of Loch Leathaid Bhuain From S 43 64 Possibly artificially cleared channel downstream of outflow, From NE defined by lines of stones midstream 44 66 Rubble pier From W 45 68 Rebuilt bridge on stalkers path to Achfary From E 46 68 Rebuilt bridge From SE 47 69 Stalkers path, original section crossing high ground to Achfary From NE 48 69 Stalkers path From SW 49 69 Stalkers path beginning to descend to Achfary From SW 50 69 Stalkers path descending to Achfary From W 51 69 Stone culvert on stalkers path From SE 52 70 Stone marker cairn and overgrown path descending to Loch an From N Leathaid Bhuain 53 71 Shelter/stable at high point of path to Achfary From N 54 71 NW-facing wall of shelter From NW 55 71 Shelter: entrance in NE-facing wall From NE 56 71 Ring set into interior wall of shelter 57 71 SE-facing wall of shelter From SE 58 71 SW-facing wall of shelter From SW 59 71 Detail of walling, S corner of building From SE 60 71 Detail of walling, S corner of building From SW 61 75 Enclosures: drystone walling with turf capping From SW 62 76 Burial ground interior From S 63 76 Burial ground: uninscribed grave marker From E 64 76 Burial ground: inscribed gravestone From E 65 76 Burial ground: table stone grave marker From SE 66 78 Enclosure: detail of north section of drystone wall From S 67 79 Area of rig cultivation From N 68 81 ‘Old House of Kylestrome’ footings of building on prominent From NW natural knoll 69 82 Kylestrome Lodge From S 70 82 Kylestrome Lodge From W 71 82 Kylestrome Lodge From NE 72 85 Broch, tumbled walling in foreground From S 73 85 Broch, intact walling of courtyard in left corner From SW 74 85 Broch, intramural stair From SW 75 86 Cairn: bracken covered mound in foreground From NE 76 15 East end of park dyke and boat ports to east From E 77 16 Double boat port From N 78 18 Boat port From NW 79 20 Building immediately above coastal track From SE 80 23 Area of peat cuttings From NE 81 24 Peat track, revetted section From S 82 25 Turf boundary dyke running NE-SW From NE 83 26 Sheepfold/shelter From NE 84 27 Enclosure, low turf and rubble banks incorporating large natural From S boulders 85 28a Shepherds cottage now MBA bothy From S 86 28b Stables with MBA bothy behind From E 87 28c Glendhu Lodge with mound behind From N 88 29 Park dyke: sheep creep From S 89 30 Building: low grassy footings west of MBA bothy From S 90 32 Field clearance outside park dyke From SE 91 35 Carefully constructed field clearance pile within park dyke From SW 92 36 Cleared boat port adjacent to later pier From N 93 37 Cleared path along shoreline From E 94 38 Stone piles below high tide line, possible constructed platforms to From NW hold fishing catch 95 39 Yair, fish trap at head of loch From N 96 43 Cruive: older drystone part on far side of stream From S 97 44 Mortared walling of unknown function N of stream 98 45 Cruive: original construction on north side of stream From S 99 47 Shielings: largest building of group From N 100 48 Enclosure: detail of drystone walling 101 50 Enclosure: indistinct turf dyke runs from upper right to lower left From NE under later drystone dyke 102 51 Shieling hut From NE 103 52 Shieling structures in shelter of rockface, and section of rubble From S walling 104 53 Stone culvert on stalkers path From E 105 54 Set stones in stream to form shallow ford From SW 106 54 Set stones in stream to form shallow ford From SE 107 55 Bridge: rubble pier From W