Evaluation of Kinetic Performance on Men's Suit Jacket by Psycho-Physiological Measurement

Hiroyuki Kanai*, Hajime Tsuji*, Junji Kawasaki*, Toyonori Nishimatsu*, Masaaki Okamura**, Kiyohiro Shibata***

* Faculty of Science and Technology, Shinshu University,3-15-1 Tokida, Ueda, Nagano, 386-8567, JAPAN, [email protected] ** Faculty of Engineering Gifu University, 1-1 Yanagido, Gifu, Gifu 501-1193, JAPAN *** Aoki Holdings, 60-1 Meichi aza Shimoyanaginouchi, Ichinomiya, Aichi 494-0012, JAPAN

Abstract: In this study, it is investigated how the shoulder influence the kinetic performance of men’s suit jacket. Subjects wearing five suit jackets of different shoulder patterns performed two different exercises involving the rotation of the upper limbs. The pressure was measured by the air-pack sensor and the partial compression feeling and the constrained feeling were evaluated by sensory evaluation. As the results, it is found that the shoulder pattern of suit jacket influenced the clothing pressure and clothing comfort. Key words: Men's suit jacket, Shoulder pattern, Evaluation, EMG measurement

1. Introduction In this study, influence of the size of shoulder pattern on Generally speaking, to adapt the suit jacket for the kinetic performance was assessed by psycho – complex body shape and to keep a beautiful silhouette, physiological measurement in a wearing test. 16-17 fabrics are used for design of men’s suit jacket, (e.g., fabric of front and back part, fabric, 2. Experimental Samples shoulder pad, et. al.). And several darts are set on a A shape of a part between an arm fabric and a design pattern of suit jacket and easing works are given body fabric is regarded as an ellipse. Its circumference is in the sewing process. That is to say, the most important called armcye girth (i.e. AG). The size of armcye girth is factor for a high product performance of the suit is the changed by the length of a major axis (i.e scye depth adaptability to human body in a static upright posture for (SD)) and a minor axis (i.e. armcye width (AW)) as designer. shown in Figure 1. On the other hand, skilled consider their kinetic In this study, we investigated how the different size of performance in manufacturing order-made suits for the AG influences kinetic performance. The five suit individuals. But it became difficult to provide a jackets that have different size of AG were pre-produced -made suit in the mass production. However, with as sample. the recent change of marketing style from the mass AG production / consumption to the multi kinds production as semi-order made style, the improvement of kinetic SD performance is strongly required. To improve the kinetic performance is ambivalent AW requirement toward keeping the beautiful silhouette on a design of suit jacket. Therefore it should be changed slightly a size of certain part on a jacket pattern as to appear no difference on the silhouette, for improving the Fig.1 Parts of scye depth, armscye girth, armscye width on kinetic performance. suit’s pattern (AG: Armscye Girth, AW: Armscye Width, SD: Scye Depth) Tab.1 Difference of length from sample 1 3.2 Measurement of EMG Armscye girth Scye depth Armcye width Electro-myogram (EMG) during the rotation of upper (mm) (mm) (mm)

Sample 1 ±0 ±0 ±0 limbs was measured by MP100 (Biopack).

Sample 2 -18 -8 -8 The electrodes were put on the surface of the skin at Sample 3 +18 +8 +8 deltoid (anterior, middle), trapezius and pectoralis. Sample 4 -14 -8 -4 The active potential was measured at the shoulder joint Sample 5 +14 +8 +4 angle of 0°to 120°. Ten Japanese male subjects were enrolled in textile The size of AG on sample 1 was the common size using courses at Shinshu University. ready made suit jacket in Japan. And the difference of the The experimental room was maintained at 23ºC, and size from that of sample 1 on other suit jacket was shown 50% R.H.. in Table 1. 3.3 Sensory evaluation 3. Experimental Method The kinetic performance of suit jacket was assessed In the case of a wearing test for assessing the restraint subjectively by sensory evaluation. of suit jacket, it is necessary to prescribe the All combinations consist of two different samples were experimental exercise, because the complex movements compared and judged the difference on the four which are observed in daily life are not reproducible. adjectives (i.e. feel pressure, feel extension, feel tight and Therefore in this study, the rotations of upper limbs on feel constraint) at four points at where clothing pressure horizontal planes were prescribed as the experimental was measured. exercise shown in Figure 2. The subjects evaluated the score scales during static These exercises are an elemental motion of daily posture at shoulder joint angle of 45°, 90°, 105° and 120° movement (e.g., to straphang in bus or , on steering in adduction. The order of combinations was of a car). randomized.

θ= 120 θ = 90 4. Results and Conclusion θ = 45 4.1 Result of Clothing Pressure θ = 30 The clothing pressure at the arm and scapula was higher

Upper limb than that of the front and back of armhole. θ= 0 Shoulder pad The clothing pressure values at the arm on each subject Fig.2 Experimental exercise were averaged as shown in Figure 3. Based on the results, it was found that the largest clothing pressure was 3.1 Measurement of Clothing Pressure worked at the body when the shoulder joint angle was We reported that the measurement of clothing pressure 120°. And as the armcye girth was the larger, the was one of the available assessing methods on the kinetic clothing pressure was the higher at the arm. performance of the suit jacket [1]. Clothing pressure of each samples were normalized by The four points (i.e. the front and back of armhole, the that of sample1 to cancel the influence of individual arm, the scapula) at where a high pressure would work physiques. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed were chosen as measurement point. significant on the normalized values of clothing pressure. Air-pack sensors (20φ in diameter, AMI3037, AMI Co. Ltd.) were put on the four points between the jacket and 3 the body. The clothing pressure was measured for three seconds 2 without breathing during static posture at shoulder joint angle of 45°, 90°, 105°, 120°in adduction. 1 The measurement was carried out for five times and

Clothing pressure (kPa) 0 calculated the average value on each posture. Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5 Fig.3 Clothing pressure at arm part 4.2 Result of EMG 4.3 Result of Sensory Evaluation Figure 4 shows the active potential at the pectoralis (a) The order effect was significant at the front of the and rectified EMG (b). Averaged rectified value (ARV) armhole, the scapula when the shoulder joint angle was of each sample was standardized by that of sample 1 as 120°posture on ‘feel pressure’, ‘feel extension’, shown in Figure 5. ‘feel tight’ and ‘feel constraint’. That is to say the Based on the standardized ARV, it was found that as the subjects recognized the difference of five samples on armcye girth was larger, the standardized ARV was larger four adjectives at large shoulder joint angle. at the pectralis major. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) Based on the mean preference score, it was found that showed significant on standardized ARV at the pectralis all adjectives were interpreted synonymy with constraint major. feeling. In addition, the armcye girth was the larger the That is to say the large consumption was occurred on constraint feeling was the stronger. sample 3 and 5. The mea preference score of adjectives were correlated with the clothing pressure value at shoulder joint angle of 5 120°. 3

1 -1 5. Conclusion

-3 In this study, we investigated how the size of shoulder

Potential (mv) Potential -5 pattern influences on the kinetic performance of the 0246 Time (sec) men’s suit jacket. It was assessed by psycho – (a) Active potential physiological measurement in a wearing test. The results 5 3 are summarized as follows: 1 -1 1. The largest clothing pressure is worked at the scapula -3 and the arm when the shoulder joint angle is 120° in -5 Rectified EMG Rectified 0246Time (sec) adduction exercise. And as the armcye girth was the (b) Rectified EMG larger, the clothing pressure was the lower at the arm. Fig.4 EMG at Pectralis major 2. From the result of EMG, as the armcye girth was the larger, the standardized ARV was the larger at the 1.5 pectralis major. 3. From the armcye girth was the larger, the mean 1.0 preference score of constraint feeling was the larger.

0.5 6. Acknowledgement This study was supported by Grant-in-Aid for Global Standardized ARV COE Program by the Ministry of Education, Science, 0.0 Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Sample 5 Sports and Culture of Japan. Fig.5 Standardized ARV (Pectoralis major) 7. References 1. Hiroyuki Kanai et.al., Evaluation of Kinetic

Performance for Men’s Suit Jacket in Exercise of

Shoulder Joint，Sen'i Gakkaishi, vol. 63, No.6 (2007)