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San Antonio, Austin & Texas Backcountry Road Trips 1

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San Antonio, Austin & Texas Backcountry Road Trips 1 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SAN ANTONIO, AUSTIN & TEXAS BACKCOUNTRY ROAD TRIPS This edition written and researched by Amy C Balfour, Lisa Dunford Mariella Krause, Regis St Louis and Ryan Ver Berkmoes HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book Reviews KTop Tips Food & In the Destinations section: Drink All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors preferred option. Additionally: Tips from Sights are arranged in the geographic Essential Locals Photo order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking Detour Tour Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History & within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping Map Legend Routes Trips 1 4 Trip Route Trip Sights Sleeping Trip Detour 1 Numbers r Beaches 5 Eating Linked Trip #9 Trip Stop Walk Route 2 Activities 6 Drinking Tollway 2 Walking tour Freeway C 3 Trip Detour Courses Entertainment Primary Secondary T Tours 7 Shopping Highway Route Markers Tertiary Lane Ù[97 US National Hwy z Festivals 8 Information Unsealed Road VÓU5 US Interstate Hwy & Events & Transport Plaza/Mall 44 State Hwy Steps Tunnel Hydrography Pedestrian River/Creek Overpass Intermittent River These symbols and abbreviations give Walk Track/Path Swamp/Mangrove vital information for each listing: Canal Boundaries Water International Dry/Salt/ % Telephone # Pet-friendly State/Province Intermittent Lake number g Bus Cliff Glacier h Opening hours f Ferry Population Areas p Parking Capital (National) Beach j Tram n Capital Cemetery Nonsmoking d Train (State/Province) (Christian) a Air-conditioning City/Large Town Cemetery (Other) apt apartments i Town/Village Park Internet access d double rooms Forest W Transport Wi-fi access dm dorm beds Reservation Airport s Swimming pool Urban Area q quad rooms Cable Car/ v Vegetarian selec- Funicular Sportsground r rooms Parking tion s single rooms Train/Railway E English-language Tram menu ste suites Underground c Family-friendly tr triple rooms Train Station tw twin rooms CONTENTS Big Bend & West Texas ................. 90 PLAN YOUR TRIP El Paso ........................................... 90 Fort Davis & Around ..................... 93 Marfa .............................................. 94 Welcome to San Antonio, Austin & Texas Backcountry ...................... 5 Big Bend National Park ................97 San Antonio, Austin Houston & the Gulf Coast ............100 & Texas Backcountry Map.............. 6 Houston .........................................100 Highlights ......................................... 8 Galveston ......................................105 San Antonio City Guide ..................10 Aransas National Wildlife Refuge .............................107 Austin City Guide ............................12 Rockport & Fulton .......................107 Need to Know ..................................14 Port Aransas .................................108 Texas Barbecue ..............................16 Padre Island National Seashore .......................110 Corpus Christi...............................110 ROAD TRIPS Port Isabel ....................................111 South Padre Island ......................111 Hill Heart of Texas ...............................112 1 Country 2–5 days 23 San Angelo....................................112 Big Bend 2 Scenic Loop 5–7 days 33 Big Spring .....................................115 Lubbock ........................................115 Texas 3 Gulf Coast 4 days 41 Along Texas Hwy 70 ....................118 Heart of Turkey ............................................118 4 Texas 4 days 49 Palo Duro Canyon ........................118 Amarillo .........................................120 DESTINATIONS DRIVING IN San Antonio & Hill Country .......... 58 SOUTHWEST San Antonio ................................... 58 Hill Country.................................... 64 USA ................... 124 Austin ..............................................72 3 Road Trips Hill Country, 2–5 days 1 This drive strings together some of Texas’ most welcoming towns. (p23) Big Bend Scenic Loop, 5–7 days 2 Minimalist art, mystery lights and star parties lead to Big Bend. (p33) Texas Gulf Coast, 4 days 3 From Galveston to South Padre Island, explore more than 400 miles of coastline. (p41) Heart of Texas, 4 days 4 Enjoy the solitude of hundreds of miles of remote Texas backcountry. (p49) On the road to Chisos Basin, Big Bend National Park (p37) DENIS JR. TANGNEY / GETTY IMAGES © Destinations San Antonio & Hill Country (p58) Most of the small towns in the rolling hills and val- leys west of Austin and San Antonio are easy day trips from either city. Big Bend & West Texas (p90) Explore the expansive Big Bend National Park, and soak up the delicious slowness of west Texas in sur- prising small towns and ghost-town ruins. Houston & the Gulf Coast (p100) Attend world-class museums and award-winning res- taurants in Houston before checking out the mellow beach-town scene of Port Aransas and the frenetic hedonism of South Padre Island. Heart of Texas (p112) Leave the big smoke behind and you’ll find that this may be the part of Texas that most typifies the state to outsiders. This is a land of sprawling cattle ranches, where people still make a living on horseback. Prickly pear, Big Bend National Park (p97) DANITA DELIMONT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd DRIVER’S LICENSE & DOCUMENTS All drivers must carry a driver’s license, the car registration and proof of insurance. If your license is not in English, an official translation or an international driving permit (IDP) is highly recommended. You will also need a credit card in order to rent a car. Driving in INSURANCE Liability insurance covers people and Southwest property that you might harm in an ac- cident. For damage to your own rental vehicle, a collision damage waiver (CDW) is available for about $22 to $27 per day. USA If you have liability and collision coverage on your vehicle at home, it might cover damages to rental cars; inquire before departing. Additionally, some credit cards The interstate system is offer reimbursement coverage for collision damages when you use the card to rent thriving in the Southwest, but a car; again, ask before departing. There may be exceptions for rentals of more a well-maintained network than 15 days or for exotic models, SUVs, vans and 4WD vehicles. of state roads and scenic Note that many rental agencies stipu- late that damage a car suffers while being byways offers unparalleled driven on unpaved roads is not covered by the insurance it offers. Check with the opportunities for exploration. agent when you make your reservation. RENTING A CAR Rental cars are readily available at airports and many downtown city locations. Rates usually include unlimited mileage, but ‘unlimited’ can actually be capped. Drop- ping off the car at a different location is usually more expensive than returning it to the place of rental. Larger companies don’t require a credit card deposit, which Driving Fast Facts means you can cancel without a penalty if you find a better rate. Since deals abound ¨ Right or Left? Drive on the and the business is competitive, it pays to right. shop around. ¨ Legal Driving Age 16 (New Most companies require that you have Mexico: 15½) a major credit card, are at least 25 years old and have a valid driver’s license. Some ¨ Top Speed Limit 85 mph national agencies may rent to drivers (Hwy 130 between Austin and between the ages of 21 and 25 but may San Antonio, TX) charge an additional daily fee. ¨ Best Bumper Sticker We’re The following companies operate in the all here because we’re not all Southwest: there (Jerome, AZ) Alamo (www.alamo.com) Avis (www.avis.com) Budget (www.budget.com) Southwest USA Playlist Dollar (www.dollar.com) Border Town Chris Whitley Hertz (www.hertz.com) National (www.national.com) Rocky Mountain High John Denver Thrifty (www.thrifty.com) Take it Easy The Eagles Texas, Texas Red Meat Viva Las Vegas Elvis Presley BORDER CROSSING Cities and towns in Arizona where you can DRIVING IN SOUTHWEST USA cross the Mexican–US border include San (typically through their websites) to re- Luis (south of Yuma), Lukeville (Hwy 85), quest maps, or pick them up at highway Nogales and Douglas. From New Mexico, tourism information offices when you enter travel south to El Paso, TX, to reach a state on a major highway. For explor- Ciudad Juárez. US Customs and Border ing Native American reservations in the Protection tracks current wait times (see Four Corners region, buy the popular AAA http://apps.cbp.gov/bwt) at every border Indian Country map. It’s for sale at Books crossing. ‘n’ More (h8am-8pm Jun-Aug, vary rest of the Bring your passport if you are crossing year), which is across the plaza from Grand the border. Foreign visitors should review Canyon Visitor Center on the South Rim, US entry requirements at the State De- and from various outlets online. partment (www.travel.state.gov) and the US Customs and Border Protection (www. B ORDER cbp.gov) websites. ROADS & CONDITIONS Be extra defensive while driving in the C Southwest. Everything from dust storms ROSSING MAPS to snow to roaming livestock can make Detailed state highway maps are distrib- conditions dangerous. Near Flagstaff, uted free by state governments. Call or watch for elk at sunset on I-17 – they like to send an email to state tourism offices soak up warmth from the blacktop (or so we
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