The MONOCLE Guide to Hotels, Inns and Hideaways A manual for everyone from holidaymakers to the hospitality trade. We side-step the tourist haunts in favour of stays with substance. Eating and drinking / Hotel restaurants Eating inn Hotel restaurants We’re sticklers for a square meal: hearty, honest, minus the fuss and foam, and in a smart setting. And as competition in the industry stifens, restaurants attached to hotels are luring in punters. Yes, there’s still in our roundup for the independent pension that’s serviced family bashes for generations but what about the Hong Kong bufet that’s perpetually stocked? And the ideal Harbour-view pub lunch in Sydney or for breakfast in Merano? Read on for our list of spots in which to refuel, catch up with a contact and kick back with old friends. And should you over-indulge and need a lie-down, you won’t have far to go. Let us show you to your table.

1 2 3 Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong Soho Berlin, Berlin Bauer Venezia, Venice Old-school supper Haus rules Sea change

Hong Kong Island’s oldest five-star hotel has This 1920s Bauhaus , designed by Georg Among Venice’s grand palazzos, the fascist-era plenty of decorated restaurants. For a taste of the Bauer and Siegfried Friedlander, has been both modern façade of the Bauer’s Campo San Moisè city without scrimping on the haute cuisine head a department store and the headquarters of the entrance stands out. The 18th-century building to Cantonese restaurant Man Wah on the 25th Communist party’s Central Committee. Since first opened as a hotel in the 1880s but in the floor, which has been steaming classics since 1968. 2010, it’s been to Soho House, with 65 1940s a new modern wing was built (the side The views are stunning and few menus deliver and 24 apartments, a gym, a rooftop pool, facing the Grand Canal still boasts a Byzantine- more of what this city does best per mouthful. the art deco-style Club Bar and two restaurants, gothic exterior). Inside is a sleek marble If you want a dollop of the city’s colonial past which serve US and Aegean dishes respectively. and sumptuous staircase, while outside there are sample the fish and chips at The Chinnery or set The Venetian restaurant Cecconi’s, with its canalside tables at which to enjoy a drink. sail for the Clipper Lounge if you think bufets are open-plan , is open to non-members and Guests have access to Settimo Cielo (Seventh best. Wash it all down with drinks at Captain’s Bar serves seafood specialities and handmade pasta. Heaven), the highest terrace in Venice, where – an institution that mixes it up until late. The weekend brunches are an understandable hit. breakfast is served against a breathtaking backdrop. 5 Connaught Road 1 Torstrasse 1459 Campiello San Moise ϩ852 (0)2522 0111 ϩ49 (0)30 405 0440 ϩ39 041 520 7022 mandarinoriental.com sohohouseberlin.com bauervenezia.com

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4 5 6 7 Hotel Portixol, Palma, Mallorca Grand Hyatt Erawan, Bangkok ArtHotel Blaue Gans, Salzburg NoMad, Los Angeles Beside the seaside Spoilt for choice Have a gander Go west

The Portixol is located in a marina a short walk Grand Hyatt Erawan’s eight restaurants (and The “blue goose” is in Salzburg’s art and museum Downtown LA’s NoMad, housed in a beautifully from the centre of Palma, where a spot of lunch is one bar) mean you could sit at a diferent spot district, just opposite the Festival . The hotel refurbished building from the 1920s, is a little accompanied by the Balearic breeze. Johanna and for every meal during a short stay. has 32 rooms and three suites (we recommend the more exotic than its Big Apple counterpart Mikael Landström bought the 1950s-era hotel in The khao phad kai dao (fried chicken two-floor Suite Maisonette), plus two restaurants. (think peacock and other bird taxidermy and 1997 and revitalised the sea-facing edifice. rice) of The is a particularly The Gewölbe Restaurant, which has been jungle-themed upholstery). Shaded by white parasols, the poolside tables toothsome breakfast after a red-eye, while the going since 1350, has a traditional feel with its Dining is split into a handful of areas. In the are populated by a mix of tourists and island Erawan Tea Room’s spicy Thai papaya salad, hand-painted murals and wooden panels but the more casual downstairs Lobby you can order residents sipping on Spanish wine and feasting on satays and curries on round teak tables are menu is far from old-fashioned. From Wiener cocktails alongside fava bean hummus or a steak. fresh seafood. After ordering the signature cocktail memorable spreads. There are also weekend Schnitzel to duck-liver parfait, each dish has been Upstairs, Mezzanine is the ideal spot for a long (strawberries and cava), afternoon will soon slip champagne brunches at Tables Grill, which serves given a twist and is seasoned with herbs from the meal, with a vegetable-heavy menu that might into evening and it won’t be long before you’re mouthwatering meat and seafood, besides an garden. The more informal Brasserie-Bar serves include broccoli variations with black rice, confit eyeing the dinner menu. Italian restaurant, wine bar, a bakery and more. simple yet hearty food along with good music. egg yolk and lemon. 27 Carrer Sirena 494 Rajdamri Road 41-43 Getreidegasse 649 South Olive and 7th Street ϩ34 (0)971 27 1800 ϩ66 (0)2 254 1234 ϩ43 (0)662 842 491 ϩ1 213 358 0000 portixol.com bangkok.grand.hyatt.com blaue-gans.com thenomadhotel.com

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8 9 10 11 Hotel Sacher Wien, Vienna Hotel Brummell, Barcelona Hotel Skeppsholmen, Stockholm Hotel Palisade, Sydney Belle époque beauty Set in concrete Military precision Harbour highlight

The Hotel Sacher Wien has plied its trade since Sandwiched between the city, sea and mountains, Many of the pastel that make up this Once a boozy refuge for down-at-heel sailors and 1876 and been under the control of the Gürtler Brummell is a seemly 20-room afair that’s (fairly) 78-room hotel are former military barracks built in “wharfies” (dockworkers), this five-floor, 19th- family since the mid-1930s. Inside the imposing central but feels a world away from the touristy 1699. Södermalm firm Claesson Koivisto Rune has century space has been transformed into one of belle époque shell there are 150 rooms (some throng. Concrete frame fronded plants and preserved the finishes and dimensions of the listed the city’s hippest hotels. Interior designer Sibella snug, others palatial) and a fifth-floor spa. an edible garden. space (hence the modular incorporated Court looked to the building’s maritime history For food we recommend Rote Bar, a swish Owner Christian Schallert fell in love with the into the rooms without permanent walls). for inspiration, decorating the hotel in shades of afair with excellent Viennese dishes, and the then derelict building in 2015 and asked architect Several rooms once housed bunks for the sea: lots of greys, blues and whites. Blaue Bar for aperitifs. Then there’s the Grüne Inma Rábano to fix it up. The menu in the pretty soldiers but today they aford space and calm, On the top two floors the Henry Deane Bar restaurant, which serves traditional recipes at Brummell Kitchen moves from with modern touches such as lamps by Achille cocktail lounge is a highlight, ofering views of made with local produce and reinterpreted with huevos rancheros with chipotle to eggs Benedict Castiglioni and Pio Manzù for Flos. As for the Barangaroo Reserve and Sydney Harbour, as well a modern twist, and the informal Sacher Eck café with pastrami. Weekend brunch is a delight, from food, chef Magnus Johansson’s breakfast is the as a mean coconut daiquiri. On the ground floor for a slice of Sachertorte (chocolate cake). açai bowls to pancakes with syrup and berries. toast of the town. there’s a pub (which also does a great pie). 4 Philharmonikerstrasse 174 Nou de la Rambla 1 Gröna Gången 35 Bettington Street ϩ43 (0)1 514 560 ϩ34 (0)93 125 8622 ϩ46 (0)8 407 2300 ϩ61 (0)2 9018 0123 sacher.com hotelbrummell.com hotelskeppsholmen.se hotelpalisade.com.au

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12 13 14 15 The Orange Public House & Hotel, Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, Babylonstoren, Franschhoek, Wanås Restaurant Hotel, Skåne, London Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat South Africa Sweden Ta n g e r i n e d r e a m Riviera icon Homespun hospitality Down on the farm In 2009, The Orange Public House & Hotel Opened in 1908, the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat Consisting of whitewashed cottages, suites The medieval estate of Wanås is famed for its park opened the to its restored building in is a priestess of the French Riviera. Its plot on and a manor house that dates back to 1777, that’s peppered with the work of A-list sculptors. Pimlico, ofering a tastefully country-rustic design the rocky peninsula of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Babylonstoren farm hotel is simple and superb In 2017, Kristina Wachtmeister turned two 18th- and menu. With sash , lofty and commands stunning views and is so vertiginous at pretty much all it does. century buildings into a hotel with 11 guest rooms the original wood flooring throughout, there’s that its guests ride a glass funicular down to the Almost everything is made on-site: the wine and a farm that supplies the Wanås Restaurant. nothing stufy about the space. 1930s . comes from the vineyards and the garden supplies With a menu fed from the teeming forests, the The four compact rooms each have a king- The Michelin-starred Le Cap restaurant the restaurants. The Greenhouse café serves salads plates brim with wild mushrooms, foraged berries, size bed and Aesop toiletries. Downstairs, a serves Provençal and Mediterranean delights such and sandwiches and the main restaurant, Babel, homegrown vegetables and game. There are plenty bustling bar and dining rooms ofer seasonal as emincé (thinly sliced) sea bass fillet, or fricassee dishes up colourful, vegetable-focused plates. The of fika-focused delights in the form of fresh-baked modern European fare. All produce used here of lobster with black garlic from Var, on a terrace Bakery, meanwhile, serves Italian-inspired dinners bread, cinnamon buns and ice cream made with is locally sourced from independent suppliers. shaded by Aleppo pines. and makes fresh bread. milk from the farm. 37 Pimlico Road 71 Boulevard du Général de Gaulle Klapmuts Simondium Road Hässleholmsvägen ϩ44 (0)20 7881 9844 ϩ33 (0)4 9376 5050 ϩ27 (0)21 863 3852 ϩ46 (0)44 253 1581 theorange.co.uk fourseasons.com/capferrat babylonstoren.com wanasrh.se

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16 17 18 19 Hotel SP34, Copenhagen La Mirande, Avignon Ottmanngut, Merano Conservatorium Hotel, Amsterdam Great Dane Cardinal virtue Bucolic breakfast All the right notes

Copenhagen doesn’t want for cosy cafés and Avignon was once the papal seat and this The restaurant in Merano’s Ottmanngut hotel is This neo-gothic building designed by Dutch diners serving first-rate grub, so the fact that was the former cardinal’s mansion, not far the place to start your day. Breakfast comes as a architect Daniel Knuttel began life as a bank Hotel sp34’s in-house Väkst restaurant has won from the Palais des Papes. Twice a week, in three-course meal that changes daily. Homemade in 1897 and a century later was home to the a loyal following is testament to its quality. the hotel’s 19th-century kitchen, head sourdough bread with jams and cheeses, Bircher Conservatorium van Amsterdam. When the The menu is Nordic, vegetables often take chef Florent Pietravalle cooks produce from the muesli, and poached eggs on toast with stracchino music school outgrew it, the Set Hotels group centre stage and it’s the dinner rather than the Grau-du-Roi market for a select table d’hôte. cheese feature regularly. Most of the ingredients transformed it into a 129-room hotel. Now breakfast that shines. The restaurant is also Cooking classes hosted by some of the region’s come from South Tyrol and some from the hotel’s occupying the former drum room is restaurant a functioning greenhouse and features pots best chefs are another draw and you can learn to , which yields lemons, tangerines and Taiko led by chef Schilo van Coevorden. overflowing with verdant foliage hanging above make Provençal classics on a wood-fired stove. plump Valencias. The menu is Asian, with a peppering of Dutch diners. Fresh lunches and three-course dinners Restaurant meals are served on a leafy terrace or, The garden is a great spot in which to sip a produce. Highlights include locally farmed veal with wine pairings see the restaurant swarm with in winter, in the panelled dining rooms in front cappuccino while leafing through the international tataki with mango, coriander and peanuts and locals – fair praise in a city full of good food. of roaring fires. Bon appétit. selection of magazines and newspapers. king red crab in a spicy red curry. 34 Sankt Peders Straede 4 Place de l’Amirande 18 Via Giuseppe Verdi 27 Van Baer lestraat ϩ45 (0)33 13 3000 ϩ34 (0)4 9014 2020 ϩ39 (0)473 449 656 ϩ31 (0)20 570 0000 brochner-hotels.dk la-mirande.fr ottmanngut.it conservatoriumhotel.com

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22 23 Drake Devonshire, Wellington, Canada Hoshinoya Kyoto, Kyoto Lake escape Ye s w e r y o k a n

In 2014, a decade after converting a former Hoshinoya Kyoto is a modern reinterpretation flophouse into the Drake Hotel in Toronto’s of Japan’s traditional ryokan. Located on the west end, hotelier Jef Stober set his sights east Oi River in the forested Arashiyama district, the to Prince Edward County. Tucked along the property had been operated as an inn for about shores of Lake Ontario, the hotel’s restaurant a century before Hoshino Resort Group bought has lake views and a menu that celebrates the it and gave it a judicious makeover. region’s rich soils and waterfront location, Chef Ichiro Kubota’s kaiseki (Japan’s courtesy of chef Alexandra Feswick. haute cuisine) menu changes almost daily and The farm-and-lake-to-table fare is a nod to incorporates a few modern touches. In spring he Ontario’s pastoral history. The limestone-heavy uses bamboo shoots, foraged plants, minnows and soil has also nourished some of the country’s top young sweetfish, while during the rainy season he wines, which can be sipped on the beach below. serves a Japanese escargot. 24 Wharf Street 11-2 Genrokuzan-cho ϩ1 613 399 3338 ϩ81 (0)50 3786 1144 drakedevonshire.ca hoshinoyakyoto.jp

20 21 24 25 Albergo Briol, Barbiano, Italy Condesa DF, Mexico City Small House Big , Seoul Hotel San Francesco al Monte, Naples On a high Hidden wonder Seoul food Mamma’s pride

Since 1928 the Briol has been proudly in From the outside, Condesa DF looks like any When Seoul-based Design Methods Any hotel with a view like San Francesco al the hands of women for three generations. Its other beautiful colonial in the historic converted this 1960s storage space into a pared- Monte’s, spanning from Mount Vesuvius to current owner Johanna Von Klebelsberg (pictured) district that gives the hotel its name. That’s back four-storey hotel, it devoted the ground Capri, would be doing a disservice to its guests continues the tradition and even cooks for her why the inner courtyard, where you’ll find the floor to a bar and bistro. The industrial-style by not focusing on the surroundings in its guests when the chef has the day of. restaurant El , is such a joy. space is kitted out with design classics such as too. Lounge on wooden Lanzinger chairs and gaze The space is modern and kitted out with Cite Lounge armchairs by Jean Prouvé and iconic Luckily, chef Vincenzo Stingone is committed over the Isarco Valley as you sample a plate of bold by French designer India Mahdavi. Callimaco floor lights by Ettore Sottsass, as well to Neapolitan tradition at his fourth-storey La doughy Knödel (dumplings) stufed with cheese, Equally surprising is the Mexican-French fusion as tables and chairs by Design Methods. Terrazza dei Barbanti. Inspired by watching his speck ham, spinach, stinging nettle and herbs. menu from executive chef Antonio Balderas, Small House Big Door is open to guests and mother cook for the family, he’s kept dishes simple For dessert, try the Kaiserschmarrn (shredded which runs the gamut from Mexican chilaquiles non-guests from 11.30 to 23.30 and serves simple to let the produce shine. This place is at its best pancake) served with cranberry marmalade. (fried corn tortillas) to a take on a salade niçoise. western-style food such as hearty burgers, jam- in summer; sit on the terrace and order clam 1 Via Br iol 102 Avenida Veracruz packed sandwiches and well-dressed salads. spaghetti with courgette flowers and lemongrass. ϩ39 (0)47 2165 0125 ϩ 52 (0)55 5241 2600 6 Namdaemun-ro 9-gil 328 Corso Vittorio Emanuele briol.it condesadf.com ϩ82 (0)2 2038 8191 ϩ39 (0)81 423 9111 smallhousebigdoor.com sanfrancescoalmonte.it

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