A TRAVEL GUIDE to CAMBERWELL

Home , Camberwell Green, Music hall, Stephen Bourne (writer)

2020 LIMITED EDITION

1 Thank you for supporting the INDEX Camberwell Banners project. CAMBERWELL HISTORIES As your reward, we're delighted to A Brief History 6 present you with the 2nd, limited A Healthy History 8 edition Travel Guide to Camberwell – the essential companion for An Artistic History 12 those in search of the real SE5. A Literary History 16

A Musical History 20 In this guide you’ll find beautiful An Entertaining History 24 parks, exotic meals, wonderful cakes, intoxicating drinks and Architectural Gems 28 excellent coffee, as well as an From the Caribbean to Camberwell 34 internationally renowned art Fortean Camberwell 38 college. There are galleries, ghosts, CONTEMPORARY CAMBERWELL a graveyard, a Turkish spa, a Greek bakery and Britain’s first purpose Camberwell’s Green 50 built mental health hospital. Phileas Dogg’s Guide to Camberwell 58 Pub Crawl 62 Robert Browning was born here, A Global Gourmet Guide 66 Michael Caine grew up here, Charlie Chaplin worked here, Dan Leno lived Café Culture 72 here and John Ruskin left in disgust 20 Things To Do In Camberwell 76 when the railways ruined his view. A View from the Baby Buggy 80

A Young Person’s Guide 84 WELCOME TO It’s an unlikely mixture, perhaps, CAMBERWELL but it’s what we think of when we Shopping in Camberwell 90 think of Camberwell. We hope it Where to Stay 94 will inspire you to explore the Stories and Colours of Camberwell 96 area further, whether you’re a Local Resources 105 local resident or visitor. Camberwell Directory 108

Map 116

Transport Information 118

2 3 CAMBERWELL HISTORIES

4 5 Today, Camberwell is so much a part In 1862 a railway line was extended to A brief history of the city that it’s hard to believe the area Camberwell, followed by a station at once had its own mill and supported itself Denmark Hill, enabling less wealthy from the surrounding fields – or that it people to commute to London. In 1871 of Camberwell traded with London by supplying the city the service attracted competition from with fresh fruit and vegetables and milk. tram companies and by the 1900s as many as 250 trams passed through Camberwell From a farming village, Camberwell became every hour on 14 different routes. an exclusive Georgian retreat, attracting visitors because of its reputation for By the beginning of the 20th century, clean air and healthy waters – as well Camberwell had become so over-crowded as improvements in transport. The most that philanthropic organisations began significant of these was the construction to look at how to improve housing in the of new bridges over the Thames to bypass area. In 1910 the Peabody Trust built flats the congestion of London Bridge, which by Camberwell Green followed by the in turn led to the construction of a new development of the Samuel Lewis Trust local road network. Camberwell New Road, Buildings in 1915. Further redevelopment for example, was opened in 1818 to link was necessary following World War II when Camberwell with Vauxhall Bridge, which air attacks destroyed 5,650 houses in the was built in 1816. local area.

As London’s transport infrastructure Today, Camberwell has become well and expanded, Camberwell developed into truly part of London – an inner-city area an inner city suburb. By 1800 two firms with a diverse population. Elegant Georgian Camberwell’s story is one of ran coaches 7 times a day from Camberwell properties sit alongside post-war estates, to Gracechurch Street in the City to giving the place its eclectic character. Throw how a small Surrey farming accommodate commuters. This was a into the mix a large teaching hospital, a community became engulfed relatively expensive form of transport as leading mental health research institution tolls had to be paid. In the mid 1800s the and the students of Camberwell College by the great metropolis horse-drawn bus was developed and the of Art and you have a truly unique part of of London. first buses came to Camberwell in 1851. London.

6 7 A healthy history

It began when the first Londoners decided that the waters of the Camber Well were a remedy for life’s ills. Ever since, Camberwell has been a cradle for medical discovery and innovation, particularly in the area of mental health and well-being. It’s no wonder the Metropolitan Borough of Camberwell adopted the motto ‘All’s Well’ when they were granted the right to a coat of arms in 1901.

IMAGE King's College Hospital gymnasium

8 9 HEALING WATERS CAMBERWELL'S INFLUENCE TODAY THE MAUDSLEY HOSPITAL THE INSTITUTE OF PSYCHIATRY, The waters of the Camber Well were said Today Camberwell is home to some of the The Maudsley is England’s first purpose- PSYCHOLOGY & NEUROSCIENCE to be rich in iron and mineral salts, with a world’s most influential medical research built psychiatric hospital for treatment IoPPN is a world leader in the research, beneficial effect on any number of ailments. organisations. Where Londoners once took and research. It dates from 1907, when Dr study and practice of psychiatry, psychology Springs and wells are known to have existed the healing waters of the Camber Well, Henry Maudsley offered London County and related disciplines, and one of the on the southern slope of Denmark Hill, three leading medical organisations are Council £30,000 (increased to £40,000) to most cited research centres in the world. especially around Grove Park. now in residence. fund a new hospital that aimed to find Its origins date back to 1896, when the effective treatments, rather than simply eminent neurologist Sir Frederick Mott As a result Camberwell developed as a providing confinement and ‘asylum’. put forward proposals for the then novel hamlet where people from the City of London KING’S COLLEGE HOSPITAL concept of university level training courses were expelled when they had life threatening King’s College Hospital was founded in All patients were admitted on a voluntary in subjects related to psychiatry. However, diseases, like leprosy, for treatment by the 1829 to provide clinical experience for basis – possible only after an Act of it was not until 1914 that Mott’s idea began church and the clean, healing waters from the students in the medical faculty of King’s Parliament in 1915. By the time it was to bear fruit when London County Council local wells. An article, written by Prosser College London. It originally opened in built, World War I had broken out and agreed to establish the Maudsley. in 1827, states: "it has been conjectured 1840 in Portugal Street, close to Lincoln’s the building was requisitioned as a that the well might have been famous for Inn Fields, and moved to its current site war hospital, not opening as a mental Within ten years, the Maudsley Hospital some medicinal virtues and might have on Denmark Hill in 1913 when a larger health resource until 1923. In 1948 the Medical School was officially recognised occasioned the dedication of (St Giles) building was required. Hospital joined the NHS, amalgamating by the University of London. It retained church to this patron saint of cripples". with the Bethlem Royal Hospital (also this title until 1948 when it became a King Edward VII laid the foundation stone known as Bedlam) to become one of founder member of the British Postgraduate By the 18th century, Camberwell’s springs of the Denmark Hill location in 1909 a small group of postgraduate Special Medical Federation and changed its name had established it as a desirable location and the new King’s College Hospital was Teaching Hospitals. In 1999 it became to the Institute of Psychiatry. In 1997, the for recreation. People would come from opened by King George V and Queen Mary part of the South London and Maudsley Institute became a school of King’s College far and wide to experience its healing on 26 July 1913. Soon after its opening, it NHS Foundation Trust (SLaM), providing London. In 2014, the remit of the Institute waters. The elegant Georgian terraces of was requisitioned as a military hospital mental health services in hospital and in the was broadened to include all brain and Camberwell Grove and Grove Lane are a and treated over 75,000 wounded soldiers community. It continues to play an important behavioural sciences, and was renamed legacy of the area's prosperity during this during World War I. role nationally and internationally and is the Institute of Psychiatry, Psychology period. Dr Lettsom, founder of the Medical supported by the Maudsley Charity. & Neuroscience. Society of London, established a botanical It is now one of London’s largest teaching garden of rare plants, some of which can hospitals as well as providing general still be seen in Lettsom Gardens. healthcare to the London boroughs ORTUS CAMBRIDGE HOUSE of Lambeth, Southwark and Lewisham In 2013 the Maudsley Charity built the ORTUS Founded in 1889, Cambridge House is part As the metropolis expanded between 1740 – and a range of specialist services for on the site of the hospital, to focus on of the Settlement Movement, which saw and 1840, the fields became streets and patients across south east England and learning, education and connection. It aims activists living and working alongside their terraces. The health giving springs and beyond. King’s is recognised nationally and to break down stigma and work closely with neighbours in London’s deprived areas to wells became forgotten in all but the place internationally for its work in liver disease patients, staff and the local community. overcome the social problems of the day. The name. However, in one of those curious and transplantation, neurosciences, As well as state-of-the-art events and collaborative ethos remains, with Cambridge threads of history, the area remains vital cardiac services, blood cancers, foetal conference spaces, there is a deliciously House and its residents supporting over to the health of Londoners. medicine, stroke and major trauma. healthy café that is open to everyone. 150,000 people every year. ch1889.org

10 11 An artistic history

Camberwell has a strong reputation for the visual arts – a legacy of the world-renowned art college that bears its name as well as one of England’s most pioneering galleries, the South London Gallery. Their histories are strongly interwoven and they still share the fabric of a building today, despite the different directions they have taken.

IMAGE Life class at Camberwell College of Art

12 13 SOUTH LONDON GALLERY CAMBERWELL COLLEGE OF ARTS CAMBERWELL AND THE YBAs ARTIST STUDIOS AND COMPLEXES The South London Gallery (SLG) is one In 1892, the newspaper magnate and The 1980s saw a new chapter in AREBYTE STUDIOS of London’s best-loved contemporary philanthropist John Passmore Edwards Camberwell’s artistic history – one that → BURGESS BUSINESS PARK UNIT 4, art venues. The gallery opened free to the offered the South London Gallery £3,000 is more often accredited to neighbouring 1ST FLOOR PARKHOUSE ST, SE5 7TJ public in 1891, founded by philanthropist to build a lecture hall and library and New Cross. In his memoir, Lucky Kunst, arebyte.com/studios William Rossiter to ‘bring art to the people the extension was opened by the Prince Gregor Muir, writes: “Not yet housed in ART IN THE PARK of south London’. Today, the SLG comprises of Wales the following year. He offered the university building at New Cross to → CHUMLEIGH GARDENS, SE5 0RJ its original site at 65 Peckham Road; the a further £5,000 to finance a Technical which it eventually moved in the late artinthepark.co.uk Fire Station, which opened in September Institute, which was opened on 6 January 1980s, Goldsmiths was a stone’s throw

2018; Art Block, a space for local children 1898 by Sir Edward Poynter, President of away in Myatts Field on the other side CLOCKWORK STUDIOS and families on Sceaux Gardens Estate; the Royal Academy. of Camberwell Green. In contrast to → 38 SOUTHWELL RD, SE5 9PG and an artist-designed garden. The SLG Camberwell’s Friday night bacchanal, clockworkstudios.co.uk gained a reputation during the 1990s for The school aimed to give the ‘best artistic Goldsmith’s held its disco on a Tuesday its programme of British and international and technical education to all classes evening with dinner ladies serving drinks, COLDHARBOUR STUDIOS contemporary art under Director David in the district’. Originally, the school including tea, from a service hatch. This → 26–34 SOUTHWELL RD, SE5 9PG coldharbourlondon.com Thorp, who presented exhibitions by offered classes in specific trades, such as indicated to me that Goldsmiths was established figures such as Anselm Kiefer architecture, cabinet design, embroidery, deeply uncool.” DENMARK PLACE STUDIOS and Gilbert & George, as well as emerging wood carving and stencil cutting. By 1920, → 47 COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 9NR artists of the time including Tracey Emin a Fine Art Department had been created. During this deeply uncool period, students and Gavin Turk. During World War II, Victor Pasmore from Goldsmiths Fine Art department were EMPRESS MEWS was appointed head of the Painting taught in the Millard building on Cormont → OFF KENBURY STREET, SE5 9BT Margot Heller was appointed Director in Department, which initiated an exciting Road in Camberwell. A former convent and empressmewsstudios.wordpress.com 2001 and has overseen the expansion of period for the School. secretarial school, it was from this building both the SLG’s programme and its public that many of the group now known as REMAKERY spaces. Over the last two decades, the Many well-known artists, including Frank Young British Artists – or YBAs – emerged. → 51 LILFORD ROAD, SE5 9HY remakery.org gallery has exhibited hundreds of artists, Auerbach and Edward Ardizzone, taught Some of the most celebrated artists of their presenting new work by early and mid- at Camberwell during this period, while generation, including Sarah Lucas, Gary SPACE STUDIOS career artists such as Alice Channer, Oscar Ron Kitaj, Euan Uglow and Frank Bowling Hume, Anya Gallaccio, Damien Hirst and → HAVIL STREET, SE5 8UB Murillo, Magali Reus and Michael Armitage, followed in the 1960s and 70s. In 1973, the Mat Collishaw, started their careers in as well as by established international School expanded into a modern purpose- Camberwell. VANGUARD COURT figures such as Dara Birnbaum, Thomas built block next to the existing premises. → REAR OF 36–38 PECKHAM RD, SE5 8QT Hirschhorn and Lawrence Weiner. This vanguardcourt.org period has also been characterised by the The school was renamed Camberwell College THE MAUDSLEY LONG GALLERY depth of the SLG’s commitment to engaging of Arts in 1989 and granted university status Art is recognised as being both a beneficial WARRIOR STUDIOS local residents in its programme often in 2004, as part of the University of the Arts therapy and an outlet for those with mental → ARCH 264, 241 COLDHARBOUR LANE, SW9 8RR through long-term projects, and including London. A major new makeover resulted health issues. The Maudsley Charity funds warriorstudios.org thousands of children, young people, in 2 new buildings added to the campus art exhibitions in the Long Gallery, curated and adults. southlondongallery.org in 2017. arts.ac.uk by Bethlem Gallery, featuring artwork by WHIRLED STUDIOS service users and is open to all. → 259 – 260 HARDESS STREET, SE24 0HN

14 15 A literary history

Whilst the presence of Camberwell College of Arts has meant that the area has a strong historical association with the visual arts, it has provided inspiration for writers too. Here are six notable authors associated with Camberwell:

IMAGE Una Marson

16 17 ROBERT BROWNING (1812–1889) JENNY ÉCLAIR (B. 1960) Camberwell was the childhood idyll of the Only a year after moving to Camberwell, Drawing on both African-American and Stand up performer Jenny Éclair is also eminent Victorian poet Robert Browning, Ruskin came to widespread public Jamaican speech, and of folk monologues, a prolific writer with five novels, newspaper who grew up just off Southampton Way. attention with the publication in 1843 she wrote devotional sonnets and love and magazine articles, and radio comedies The area has changed significantly since of his first volume of Modern Painters – lyrics as well as more modernist works. under her belt. Much of her work references Browning lived there: both Rainbow Cottage, an extended essay in defence of the Camberwell for which she is both defensive where he was born, and Hanover Cottage, work of J.M.W. Turner. In later volumes of its shortcomings, and proud of its where the Browning family moved when he he championed the Pre-Raphaelites, MURIEL SPARK (1918–2006) eccentricities and achievements. was 12, have long since been knocked down. who were influenced by his ideas. During her life, the novelist Muriel Spark travelled from her childhood home in Browning disliked school and his education From his study in Denmark Hill, Ruskin Edinburgh to Rhodesia, London, New MARTIN MCDONAGH (B. 1970) took place mainly at home, where his father wrote on subjects ranging from geology York, Rome and Florence – but it was in The award-winning playwright and film-maker amassed a library of around 6,000 books. to architecture, myth to ornithology, and Camberwell that she wrote the first of Martin McDonagh grew up in Camberwell, At the age of sixteen, he studied Greek at botany to political economy. By the time the many novels she became famous for, of Irish parents, and spent most of his University College London but left after his he moved to Cumbria in 1872, he had including The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie childhood summers in the west of Ireland. first year, clearly preferring the facilities become the leading English art critic of and The Ballad of Peckham Rye. The titles of his best-known plays – at home: he lived there until the age of 34, the Victorian era, as well as an artist, The Beauty Queen of Leenane, A Skull financially dependent on his family until his patron, social thinker and philanthropist. A local priest helped her find a bedsit at in Connemara and The Lonesome West – marriage to fellow poet, Elizabeth Barrett. His main legacy to Camberwell is the 13 Baldwin Crescent in 1955. She arrived suggest that Connemara may have been more stained glass window he designed for a struggling single mother, recovering from of an immediate influence on his work than As a writer, Browning lived for many years in St. Giles’ Church. a serious breakdown. Within 2 years she’d Camberwell. However, the combination of the shadow of his wife. However, he achieved published her first novel, The Comforters. pastiche rural Irish forms and displaced urban success late in life through his brilliant use Once she’d started writing, Spark was sensibility gives his best-known works a dark, of dramatic monologue in works such as My UNA MARSON (1905–1965) unstoppable: over the next 20 years she violent and very funny edge. Last Duchess and Porphyria’s Lover. These During the years she lived in Camberwell, published almost a novel a year, as well made him a literary icon and influenced Una Marson gained a reputation as as short stories and plays. So successful is this Camberwell/Connemara future generations of writers, including a pioneering publisher, broadcaster, cultural collision that in 1997 McDonagh Thomas Hardy, Ezra Pound and T.S. Eliot. feminist, pan-Africanist and anti-racist – In 1961 she published The Prime of Miss was widely described as the first dramatist the first black female to work for the BBC Jean Brodie, her legendary tale of the since Shakespeare to have four works and producer of the influential poetry Edinburgh spinster schoolteacher who professionally produced on the London JOHN RUSKIN (1819–1900) programme Caribbean Voices. devotes her middle years to her ‘gerrils’, stage in a single season. In recent years In 1842, the Ruskin family moved to 163 to Mussolini and to having illicit sex. McDonagh has moved from theatre to Denmark Hill. Writing about his home there, However, this aspect of her work sometimes The success of Miss Jean Brodie, in its film-making, winning an Academy Award Ruskin later said, “It stood in command of overshadows the fact that she is also widely Broadway, film and television versions, in 2006 for his first film, the short Six seven acres of healthy ground... half of it recognised as the earliest female poet of assured her financial security for life and Shooter, an Oscar nomination for Best meadow, the rest prudently and pleasantly significance to emerge in Jamaican literature. a place in the most hallowed annals of Original Screenplay for In Bruges in 2008, divided into an upper and lower kitchen Her best-known works, such as Nigger and Scottish and English literature. With the and two Golden Globes and three BAFTAs garden, a fruitful bit of orchard and chance Kinky Hair Blues, pioneered the articulation money she earned, she left Camberwell for for Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, inlets and outlets of wooded walk.” of gender and racial oppression. New York in 1965. Missouri in 2018.

18 19 A musical history

The soundtrack to contemporary Camberwell is one in which ambulance sirens play a key note – the result of the busy A&E department of King’s College Hospital on Denmark Hill. But Camberwell has provided rich inspiration for musicians throughout the ages, offering a soundtrack for the streets of SE5. From Mendelssohn to Florence and the Machine, we provide a playlist for Camberwell, inspired by 7 musical moments and personalities in the history of Camberwell.

IMAGE Pink Floyd in Ruskin Park

20 21 MENDELSSOHN AND SYD BARRETT AND CAMBERWELL PULP & 59A LYNDHURST GROVE CAMBERWELL GREEN COLLEGE OF ART Lyndhurst Grove, close to Camberwell College Their most explicit tribute to the local area In 1842 Mendelssohn stayed in Camberwell In 1965, Syd Barrett won a scholarship to of Arts, was the inspiration for the final track was the Camberwell EP released in 2000 with the Benneckes, affluent relatives of his Camberwell College of Art, where he shared of Inside Susan: a story in three songs, which under the pseudonym Banana Krew, and wife, who lived on Denmark Hill (in one of the a flat with childhood friend Roger Waters follows the eponymous Susan from her which included tracks I Live in Camberwell villas that was knocked down to make way for – and musical history was made. Barrett Rotherham puberty through wild teen years (with lines including “I live in Camberwell, Ruskin Park). He found the area so charming joined Water’s band The Screaming Abjabs, in Sheffield to her eventual marriage and she lives in Brixton” and “On the streets he was inspired to write Camberwell Green, which was eventually named Pink Floyd. settling down somewhere on the outskirts of Camberwell, the tramps are coming at now better known as Spring Song. It is taken of London. Lead singer Jarvis Cocker had me”), and Camberskank. The B-side of their from the fifth book of Felix Mendelssohn’s His talents for eccentric pop songwriting and this to say about the track in a 1994 Record smash hit single Romeo in 2001 was series of lyrical piano pieces Lieder ohne bold sonic exploration ensured his rapid rise Collector interview: "[It] was inspired by a called Camberwell Skies. Worte, or Songs without Words. to fame – but the equally rapid descent into party I’d been to the weekend before. We chemically-induced mental illness sadly were thrown out by an architect but I got leaves us with the never-to-be-answered my own back by writing a song about the FLORENCE WELCH & MYATT’S MUSIC HALL AND CAMBERWELL question of what Barrett would have event. It was a really crap ‘right on’ party – FIELD PARK Camberwell has quite a tradition in music accomplished had circumstances allowed there were children there. You don’t take Florence Welch, of Florence and the hall songs – a legacy of the many popular him to achieve his full potential. your children to a party in my book. I sent Machine, grew up in Camberwell and music hall venues in the area. In 1915 a copy of the CD to 59 Lyndhurst Grove, studied Foundation Art and Design at Lionel Monckton wrote Chalk Farm To the lady of the house, because she was in Camberwell College of Art, where she Camberwell Green for his wife Gertie Millar. JAZZLIVE AT THE CRYPT a bad situation married to this prick, but specialised in painting. It includes the classic lines: "Chalk Farm to Jazzlive at the Crypt was established in she never wrote back. A Japanese fan went Camberwell Green, all on a summer’s day; 1995 and quickly gained a reputation as there and stood outside and asked if she We’d like to think the area has had a clear Up we climbed on the motor bus and we one of the UK’s premier jazz venues. It has was Susan!" influence on her artistic development: in started right away. When we got to the end featured the top musicians from London, the London Evening Standard (30th July of the ride, he asked me to go for a walk, the UK, Europe and beyond, and is bringing 2009) she described her earliest London But I wasn’t Camberwell green by a very new audiences to jazz through its diverse BASEMENT JAXX & memory as climbing the trees in her local long chalk." programming. Awarded ‘unmissable’ status LOUGHBOROUGH JUNCTION park, Myatt’s Fields, when she was about by Conde Nast Traveller magazine they also In terms of dance music, Basement Jaxx nine years old. “The willow tree was the Camberwell also featured in a Gracie Fields received the honorary “Freedom of the (Simon Ratcliffe and Felix Buxton) are one evil tree and the mulberry tree was the number from the ‘30s, Heaven Will Protect Old Borough of Camberwell” for their work of the biggest acts to come out of South good tree. It was great for climbing and an Honest Girl. In this song, written by in the local community. London – particularly in terms of their you could eat the mulberries in summer. the great R.P. Weston and Bert Lee team sustained output over the last 25 years. I spent a lot of time in that tree.” (with Harris Weston too). Gracie sets out for The Crypt is the perfect setting for a live Their very first studio was in Lomond Grove, London to go into service, gets into trouble, jazz venue. Its gothic architecture adds Camberwell, and subsequently they moved Florence chose The Joiners Arms pub and heads home to Oldham in her undies: to the mystery of the space deep below to Loughborough Junction, the scene of in Camberwell to launch her 4th studio "Said ‘eaven will protect an honest girl. Next George Gilbert Scott’s St. Giles’ Church. many of their legendary parties. They have album High as Hope, the highlight of the day I pawned me shawl in Camberwell. Then See the website for details of upcoming supported local initiatives, including the night being South London Forever, which me skirt and blouse I sold ‘em. And went concerts and events. Loughborough Junction Action Group's name-checked the Joiners Arms. trampin’ back to Oldham..." jazzlive.co.uk 7 Bridges project. @thejoinersarmspub

22 23 An entertaining history

Though no signs of it remain today, Camberwell was once renowned throughout London for its vibrant music hall scene. In this section of the Guide, we give a ghost tour of Camberwell’s theatrical and cinematic history.

IMAGE Karno's Fun Factory

24 25 THE CAMBERWELL FAIR CAMBERWELL AND CUSTARD PIES A second ABC cinema, opened in 1940. Sir Michael Caine’s start in life was tough: The earliest form of advertised local 38 Southwell Road is now an artists’ With 2,470 seats, it was one of London's not only did he live in one of the poorest entertainment was the Camberwell Fair, studio, housing a range of exciting artists largest suburban cinemas. It closed in neighbourhoods in Camberwell but he held annually from the Middle Ages to and craftspeople. At the turn of the 20th 1973, becoming a bingo hall until 2010. also lived there through the Blitz. Despite the mid 19th century to commemorate century, however, it was labelled London’s Now a church, it retains its Art Deco style this, the roots of his future career can be the feast of Camberwell’s patron, Saint ‘Fun Factory’ – home to Fred Karno’s music and is Grade II listed. traced back to Camberwell and Clubland, Giles. Around the 18th century, the fair hall performers. Two of the most notable a youth club run by the Rev. Butterworth. He was transformed from country market were Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel offered sports for boys and drama for girls to funfair, with drinking, music, dancing, (of Laurel & Hardy fame). Their employer, CAMBERWELL ON SCREEN but the young ‘Michael Caine’, motivated by acrobats, puppet shows, magicians and Frederick John Westcott (26 March 1866 – Peter Sellers’ 1957 film, The Smallest Show a combination of clumsiness and adolescent dancing bears. The most famous act in 18 September 1941), best known by his on Earth – which tells the tale of a struggling lust, opted to join the drama group. the mid 19th century was Richardson’s stage name Fred Karno, was an English family-run cinema – is thought to have Theatre, which provided popular drama theatre and music hall impresario. He been based on the Camberwell Palace. in the days before TV. is credited with inventing the custard- Camberwell also has an unusual starring THE BLUE ELEPHANT THEATRE pie-in-the-face gag. During the 1890s, in role in the cult classic, Withnail and I. The This 50-seater venue produces an order to circumvent stage censorship, Camberwell Carrot is the enormous spliff eclectic programme of new work across CAMBERWELL AND MUSIC HALLS Karno developed a form of sketch comedy rolled by Danny the Dealer. His explanation the performing arts, from physical In Victorian times Camberwell was a focal without dialogue. Authority-defying routines, for the name is, “I invented it in Camberwell and dance theatre to new writing point of South London’s music hall scene such as Jail Birds (1896), in which prisoners and it looks like a carrot”. and revamped classics. with household names, such as Dan Leno play tricks on warders, can be seen as blueelephanttheatre.co.uk and Gracie Fields, performing here from precursors of silent movie comedy. At his the 1850s to the 1940s. The earliest music peak Fred Karno was producing productions halls in Camberwell were in the back of throughout the world. The sets for these STOP MESSING ABOUT…! THEATRE PECKHAM pubs. One, the Nollywood (formerly the were built in the back yard of the ‘Fun Kenneth Williams (of Carry On films fame) Founded over 30 years ago, Theatre Peckham Father Redcap, built in 1853) still stands Factory’, while trapeze artists practiced in the showed a very different side to his scathing is a flagship cultural venue and pioneering by Camberwell Green, though its interior tall three-story building and the slapstick public persona when he visited an adult learning theatre, where inspirational artists and exterior are now much altered. In routines of Vaudeville were worked out in literacy project at Cambridge House, meet aspirational young people. They are 1896, the Dan Leno Company opened the and around the rehearsal rooms. Camberwell, in the 80's - using his gift for home to world class creative learning and Oriental Palace of Varieties on the corner fun to inspire students who had left school performances with, by and for young people, of Denmark Hill and Orpheus Road. This without reading or writing skills. providing a talent pipeline into the creative was so successful that it was replaced in CAMBERWELL AND CINEMA industries. theatrepeckham.co.uk 1899 with a new theatre, the Camberwell By 1912, music hall venues such as the Palace, which had a capacity of 1,553. Camberwell Palace were showing films NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE KNOW THAT The Metropole Theatre and Opera House as a part of their variety programme. Back in 1933, shortly after the birth of THEATRE DELI soon followed, which presented transfers It became an ABC cinema in September one Maurice Micklewhite junior, his family Theatre Deli has brought new life to the old of West End shows. Following the advent 1932 – known simply as The Palace Cinema. moved to 14 Urlwin Street, Camberwell. A public library and washhouse on Wells Way, of the cinema, and later of television, The Metropole Theatre was demolished two-room flat at the top of this house was Burgess Park, with circus, theatre, comedy, Camberwell’s music halls fell into decline to make way for an Odeon cinema – which to become the childhood home of one of exhibitions, cabaret, workshops and more. with the last closing in 1956. has now also been demolished. the finest actors of his generation. theatredeli.co.uk/theoldlibrary

26 27 Architectural Gems

A personal selection of interesting buildings in date order.

IMAGE Fetal Medicine Research Institute, Windsor Walk

28 29 2 1 CAMBERWELL GROVE: FROM 6 UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS AND 1780 Take a stroll down this long tree SOUTH LONDON GALLERY PECKHAM lined street with its wonderful variety ROAD: 1898 A riotous highly decorated of Georgian and early Victorian houses, 9 façade built to unify the original art making it one of the loveliest streets in gallery and technical institute. South London. Architect: Maurice B Adams. 3

2 CHUMLEIGH GARDENS FORMER 7 FORMER NATIONAL WESTMINSTER

ALMS HOUSES: 1823–1847 These W BANK: 1899 Originally London and

L buildings form a delightful contrast to the L County Bank. This flamboyant late S

wide open spaces of Burgess Park and are A Victorian building lets you know that you

Y all that remain of the buildings that were have arrived at the centre of Camberwell AD RO cleared to create the park in the 1960s. CH as it dominates the main cross roads. UR H 8 C EW N 3 FORMER ST GEORGE’S CHURCH 8 EVELINA MANSIONS NEW CHURCH WELLS WAY: 1824 It is hard to imagine ROAD: 1900. These striking red brick that when this elegant building was first 15 mansion blocks are an early example of CAMBERWELL ROAD built it was right beside the thriving Grand philanthropic housing for the poor in the Surrey Canal, now filled in as part of area. Four Per Cent Industrial Dwellings Burgess Park. Architect: Francis Bedford. Company Ltd.

H B A E V N I H L

I S L T L R

4 ST GILES CHURCH, CAMBERWELL R 9 BUTTERFLY BUILDING WELLS WAY: E

O E

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CHURCH STREET: 1844 The parish D 1902 (Formerly North Camberwell Public church is one of the most imposing 14 Library, Baths and Washhouses) Known for buildings in Camberwell, with the spire 6 its striking depiction of the Camberwell of this Victorian gothic building projecting 7 16 Beauty butterfly, this building is also a up over 64 metres. Architect: George 10 beautiful example of Edwardian Freestyle Gilbert Scott. architecture. Architect: Maurice B Adams. PECKHAM ROAD

5 CIRCULAR WARD BLOCK HAVIL 4 10 EMPLOYMENT ACADEMY: 1904 STREET: 1888 (Formerly part of St Giles (Formerly Guardian Offices, Peckham Hospital). A rare early example of form Road) A wonderfully exuberant Edwardian following function in a circular building building described variously as ‘arts and which provided four hospital wards crafts’ or ‘Edwardian Baroque’. Architect: CAMBERWELL GROVE from principles laid down by Florence Edwin T Hall with recent extension in Nightingale. Architect: Robert Wellock 2013 by Peter Barber Architects. 1 30 18 31

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15 CAMBERWELL ROAD 11 WILLIAM BOOTH MEMORIAL COLLEGE 16 UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS CHAMPION PARK DENMARK HILL: 1929 EXTENSION PECKHAM ROAD: 1964. This is the landmark by which Camberwell This example of 1960s brutalist

H B can be found for miles around South London A architecture has recently been restored E V N I and was deliberately built so that the college H L and the entrance area transformed

I S L T L R would become a prominent landmark and R to make a stunning contrast with its E

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T create a senseof awe. Architect: Sir Giles A 5 Edwardian neighbour. Architect: Maguire D Gilbert Scott. 14 and Murray; restored and adapted by 6 Stephen Marshall Architects. 7 16 12 KINGS COLLEGE HOSPITAL GUTHRIE WING DENMARK HILL: 1937. 10 The small entrance showing between the 17 THE HAMLET, CHAMPION PECKHAM ROAD Ruskin Wing and Accident & Emergency is HILL:1967. An award winning private an art deco curiosity. estate of 32 townhouses, which is one 4 of the best examples of 1960s residential design. Architect Peter Moiret 13 RUSKIN PARK HOUSE ESTATE CHAMPION HILL: 1938 - 1954. One can somehow imagine Hucule Poirot CAMBERWELL GROVE emerging from this art deco inspired 18 ORTUS BUILDING GROVE LANE: estate. Architect: Watkins Gray. 2013. A deceptively simple building 1 that, on inspection, reveals its subtleties. Internally, it is arranged around a large 14 SCEAUX GARDENS ESTATE DALWOOD 18 dramatic multi-level space. Architect: STREET: 1957–1960. The first (and an Duggan Morris. D

E exemplar) large post war council housing N M

A estate in Camberwell including two fifteen R 19 K

H storey tower blocks softened by mature I L landscaped gardens. Architect: Camberwell 12 L 19 FETAL MEDICINE RESEARCH Metropolitan Borough Council INSTITUTE WINDSOR WALK: 2017. Architects HP Trenton. This new award winning building cleverly utilises the rear of an existing terrace 11 of Victorian houses to create one side 15 BRUNSWICK PARK SCHOOL PICTON of a dramatic atrium space formed by STREET: 1961-2. An opportunity to see swooping curved columns. a dramatic single storey early work of the Architect: A21 Architects late James Stirling (of Stirling Prize fame) and his then partner, James Gowan. 13 Architect: Stirling and Gowan. 17 32 33 From the Caribbean to Camberwell

Camberwell historian Stephen Bourne remembers George A. Roberts and Una Marson who left their homes in the Caribbean to live in Camberwell and become trailblazers for Britain’s black community.

IMAGE George A. Roberts

34 35 George remained an active member of the After moving to a new home in Brunswick After the war, Una returned to Jamaica and League until it disbanded a few years after Square, Camberwell, Una became involved continued her work in politics, broadcasting Dr Moody’s death in 1947. George was one of in broadcasting and joined the staff of and literature. Una died in Kingston, Jamaica many hundreds of mourners who attended the BBC. During the Second World War in 1965 at the age of sixty. In 2009 Una Dr Moody’s funeral at the Camberwell Green she became the BBC’s first black woman Marson was honoured with a Southwark Congregational Church in Wren Road. programme maker. Una’s pioneering work Heritage Association Blue Plaque. It can be for BBC radio spanned just over five years, seen on the outside of her former home Too old to fight in the Second World War, from 1940 to 1945. in Brunswick Square, Camberwell. George became a fireman instead. Throughout the London Blitz and the rest Through the popular weekly series Calling of the war, George served as a brave fire the West Indies, Una broadcast messages Camberwell resident Stephen Bourne is fighter, putting out fires and saving lives from servicemen and women in England to a writer and social historitan specialising while the bombs fell and exploded. In 1944 their families and friends in the Caribbean. in black heritage and gay culture. George was awarded the British Empire Despite air raids and other wartime dangers, Medal which was presented to him by King Una and her guests broadcast from BBC He has “discovered many stories that George VI at Buckingham Palace. Broadcasting House near Oxford Circus and, have remained untold for years” from the although it was dangerous, Una understood contribution that Britain’s Black community George A. Roberts and Una Marson felt In 2016 George A. Roberts was honoured the importance and value of Calling the made in World War I (Black Poppies) to inhibited by the lack of opportunities in with a Southwark Heritage Association West Indies. Una was very conscious of the uncovering the life of George A. Roberts, their colonised homelands, Jamaica and Blue Plaque. It can be seen on the outside of struggles faced by West Indians in Britain at whose life as a soldier and significant Trinidad, and decided to spread their his former home, the Lewis Trust Buildings, that time, and on radio she had the ability to local driver of social improvement is wings in England, then known as the in Warner Road, where he lived from 1923 infuse her broadcasts with her personality commemorated with a Southwark heritage ‘Mother Country’. to 1970. George’s plaque was the result as well as having a sense of the literary and Blue Plaque in Warner Road. Stephen’s of a popular public vote and the honour the cultural. Fighting Proud: The untold story of the gay George left Trinidad in 1915 to join the drew attention to a remarkable gentleman. men who served in two World Wars delves Middlesex Regiment in the First World War. What makes George special is that he was a into LGBT’s hidden history. He fought in several major battles, including Trinidadian adventurer who came to England the Somme. After the war he remained in long before the Empire Windrush docked In 1992 he curated Out of the Archives, the England, and made Camberwell his home at Tilbury in 1948. He was a black settler first of many successful LGBT television in 1923. Active in the Royal British Legion who successfully integrated into British retrospectives for BFI Southbank. During from its beginnings in 1921 until he died in society and made Camberwell his home. the 1990s Stephen was instrumental in 1970, George was the President and Founder setting up one of the first Southwark based Member of the Camberwell Branch. In 1931, When the feminist and poet Una Marson LGBT forums to address homophobic crime. with the Jamaican-born community activist arrived in England in 1932, she was helped Dr Harold Moody, who had settled in by Dr Harold Moody and his family who He has been honoured for his work Peckham, George was a founder member offered her a room in their home at documenting the lives of Black Britons of the League of Coloured Peoples. This was 164 Queen’s Road, Peckham. She was in film and television, and South Bank one of the first organisations to represent employed as the secretary for the League University made him an Honorary Fellow and support Britain’s black community. of Coloured Peoples. for his work on diversity.

36 37 Fortean Camberwell

A tour around SE5’s folklore, mythology and ghosts. This guide can be read or walked. It makes more sense if walked and, by the nature of the strange clusters of Camberwell, it can be taken as one walk with a longer walk in the middle or two walks – one through Burgess Park and one from Orpheus Street to St. Giles Church. Or it can be used as and when you find yourself in certain parts of Camberwell. Enjoy it as you wish!

IMAGE Sarah Sparkes

38 39 BURGESS PARK Start by getting to the middle of Burgess I was told this story by an artist who said St George’s is the site of a genuine and In the 1940s a tunnel was dug from Elephant Park. Have your back to Albany Road she kept a studio near the park and heard disturbing mystery – a suggestion that & Castle tube to extend the Bakerloo line and the lake to your left and you’ll be the ghostly pitter-patter of little feet when once the church was a den of vampires. down to Camberwell Green via a station looking across or standing on the ground working late at night. Remember, though, on Albany Road. The plan was abandoned, that Sacrilege, the inflatable Stonehenge that artists are in the business of creating On the 4th September 1977 the Sunday the official story goes, with the Victoria line installation by artist Jeremy Deller, their own worlds within our worlds. People reported that raiders had smashed extending to Brixton instead, but there is occupied in 2012. Beyond that is the Bridge through a wall into the vault of St George’s, an alternative version. to Nowhere, next to the old red toy steam 12 coffins were opened and the bodies train. The bridge is obviously pointless, ST GEORGE’S CHURCH within strewn about the vault. The 1950s and 60s, with the Korean War as its steps are blocked off and buddleia Turn right away from the revenant canal raging and the Cold War blowing, was a blown, but mainly because it crosses and walk towards Wells Way and St George’s Coffins were ripped open with what looked time with nuclear bombs hanging over a path people walk and cycle down. The Church. Before you get to the church there’s like ‘a giant tin opener’, two bodies were it. Walworth and Camberwell Roads, near bridge is a relic of the area’s past when a red brick building with some brilliant beheaded and one had a stake driven into to Westminster yet in a deprived part of once all this green space was streets and stonework on it. The pert mermaids on it as if it were a vampire. south London, would make an ideal hiding houses with the Grand Surrey Canal running either side of the doors are the attention- place for secret government bunkers to hide through it. grabber but look to either side of the big The attack was described as a commando- the great and good during a war and the door to see sideways faces of a woman style raid. What happened to build up to this? tunnels are already dug, so it is less effort The Second World War destroyed much of on one side and a man on the other being to place a secret base beneath Walworth the area and what is now Burgess Park was consumed by foliage. and Camberwell’s streets. Government, left as a breathing space for the choked folk THE WORLD BELOW though, requires a lot more apparatus of Southwark. People now play football These are modern versions of the foliate Turn away from the suspected vampires’ than a tube train – so how could the base’s on what was Longcroft Road and fish over head, or green man – a popular medieval nest and cross the road back into the construction, in the 1960s, be hidden from Scarsdale Road, Brymer Street and Dartnell church decoration that usually has a man’s park. Carrying along the main path is spies and any potential irradiated south Road. Before the bridge, a relic of the past, face vomiting leaves. These Camberwell an old lime kiln – a squat brick structure Londoners wanting a safe haven amongst the canal was the centre of local life and ones are leaves that are vomiting people. with arches. the great and good? that is where we get our first traditional haunting rather than the relics of old The building is a former public bathhouse It is another relic from the area’s urban How about building a huge shopping Camberwell. and the faces on either side are there past and is said occasionally to be haunted. centre and, while it is constructed, filling to demonstrate which door the men and I’ve not heard by what, or whether there is the tunnels running to Albany Road with Come along to the park at night and stand by women go through. Turn right away from a story to the ghost attached, but it feels the needs of a post-nuclear government? this footpath and you may hear the ‘bump, the mermaids and leaf-people and head fitting that two parts of Burgess Park’s past bump, bump’ of ghostly children’s footfalls next door to St George’s Church. have a ghost attached to them. And that, some think, is why the Elephant and scurrying footsteps. These are long & Castle Shopping Centre was constructed. gone children who drowned in the canal You’ll pass a mosaic of the Camberwell Carry on over Addington Square to Now turn back, walking back past Burgess while using it and the boats moored on it as Beauty butterfly, which was discovered Camberwell Road, turn right, cross Albany Park, down Camberwell Road, through entertainment by hopping between them at nearby, but pass that – we’re seeking stranger, Road and stop at Boundary Lane. There’s Camberwell Green, and stop when you night. They died for a lack of a playground uglier beasts. You can see St George’s four- a forgotten tunnel beneath your feet with get to the corner of Denmark Hill and and now their sounds hang over one. pillared spire as you approach. a story. Orpheus Street.

40 41 GREEK MYTH AND GHOSTS CURSED AND SACRED GROUND Orpheus was the seer whose lyre playing and This story harks back to 1780 with a young Walk away from this story until you reach The hysteria created by this figure was so singing was so beautiful it could bring wild housemaid called Rebecca living and the grassy area on the corner of Denmark great that mobs in Peckham were reported animals to sit beside him. He lost his love working in a lodging house on Fish Street Hill and Champion Park. If you’ve just to have burnt an effigy of the ghost by the and travelled to the underworld to reclaim Hill near the Monument. O’Donnell was stepped onto the greenery, then sorry: railway sidings around Oliver Road. her. Hades, the lord of the underworld, keen to point out how ‘plain’ Rebecca was I may have just cursed you by accident. told him she would return to life with and how entranced by the sort of silly This grassy triangle between Denmark A man was captured and charged, after him if he were to leave the underworld romantic literature that young girls so Hill and Champion Hill was discussed by he was caught throwing dried peas at the without looking back. Just as he reached adore. She falls in love with a handsome the email list Talking Folklore. There was, window of a house, with being the ghost and the gates of the Land of the Dead he did young man lodging in the house but is so it was said, a local tradition that it was although there was little evidence that he look back and lost his love forever. I don’t shy about it he doesn’t notice her, let alone a ‘plague pit’, thus sacrosanct and never was the ghost the sightings stopped once know why this street is called Orpheus her longing glances at him. built on. But researcher Brian McConnell he was arrested. From Grove Lane turn left Street but, just to be safe when walking looked into it and it wasn’t a plague pit to walk along Grove Hill Road and left again down it, don’t look back. On the corner of When the day comes that the young man at all – just a grassy triangle. Further ideas to walk up (because you will be heading Orpheus Street and Denmark Hill was once leaves the house Rebecca expects a kiss were thrown around. Folklorist Theo Brown north, but in fact you are walking downhill) the Camberwell Palace Theatre, harking and proposal from the man but, as he had a sort of Romantic + Jungian theory Camberwell Grove. back to a time before cinema and television leaves, he shakes her hand and tips her that triangular patches left intact at road when everyone went to see variety acts and a golden guinea. This sends Rebecca into forks are what the Greeks meant by the On your right will be Grove Park, turn in musical hall in London’s countless theatres. a screaming frenzy, so maddened by this accursed ‘trivium’ or triple crossroads which and take the next right again. All roads here that she is committed to Bedlam, the mental got poor Oedipus, it’s that demi-god again, are called Grove Park. You will see a sign It is said that a Lion Tamer was mauled hospital which, then, was on the site of into trouble in Hades. There is at least one for allotments in one corner. In the gardens to death here in 1902 when his act went what is now the Imperial War Museum. such grassy triangle in Sussex reputed to of one of the flats here lies the possible wrong and his bloody, bandaged ghost have been the site of a gallows. Flee this location of the Camber Well. haunted the theatre until it closed in 1956. She spends her whole life there, never area along Champion Park and, as it turns The theatre has since been demolished but letting go of the golden guinea her into Grove Lane, keep going until you get No one quite knows why Camberwell is plans are afoot in 2019 for new developments handsome young man gave to her, until to the top of the hill where Grove Lane named so, but Ladywell and Clerkenwell to include a cinema. Cross Denmark Hill she dies. As she lies there an unsavoury becomes Dog Kennel Hill and on your right both have wells so it could be presumed again and turn left, heading further up character prised the guinea from her is Champion Hill. that Camberwell, too, is named after a Denmark Hill until you arrive at the grey dead hand and makes off with it. water source. Further speculation suggested and brick building and iron railings of Grove Lane and Champion Hill were two that the word ‘camber’ can mean ‘bent’ or the Maudsley Hospital. We’ll borrow now Rebecca’s’ ghost then wandered Bedlam, of the many places the ‘Peckham Ghost’ ‘crooked’ so perhaps the Camberwell was a from ‘gentleman ghost hunter’ Elliott asking for her guinea back, and it seems just was seen – a pale figure in a long dark healing well where crooked men and women O’Donnell’s Casebook of Ghosts which, as her body could not leave Bedlam neither coat with a white lining that terrorised the could go to be cured. like most of his books, contains stories could her soul – because when Bedlam areas around Peckham in 1872. The ‘ghost’ of the author stumbling across folk tales moved and merged with the Maudsley her would leap out of the darkness of what This may be sacred, healing ground. The and other people’s ghostly encounters ghost came with it. She wanders the area was then the fields that south London was well itself first emerged when discovered and pretending he’d been told them by an around Camberwell asking for her golden spreading across and terrify a young girl or by a Dr Lettsom – ‘physician, botanist, unnamed member of the aristocracy while guinea, another lost soul asking for money drunk musician and then disappear again, Quaker and philanthropist’ – who bought he’s sitting in his club. on Camberwell’s streets. occasionally leaping over a high fence. his estate in 1776.

42 43 He put red bricks around the well and Brutus’s son, Prince Cam, is thought to have Walking around the side of the church you Neil Transpontine, in his brilliant south gardens around the well but it became made his home on the Surrey hills that will see some rain-eroded gargoyles on London blog, found this passage the Great lost by the 1950s amid the construction of are now Camberwell. The Brutus myth first the corner of each turret. A local legend Beast wrote about a trip to Camberwell in the current Grove Park estate. Enter, in the cropped up in 9th century Britain and the says that these faces are caricatures of the his book Magick without Tears: I remember mid 2000s, local historian John Chapel who idea that the foundations of Camberwell, political figures Lord Randolph Churchill, sailing happily in to breakfast at Camberwell found the well on an ordinance survey map London and Britain were laid by legendary Lord Salisbury, Lord John Russell and Vicarage, and saying cheerfully, in absolute from 1868 and compared it to the original kings – even ones from the losing side of abolitionist William Wilberforce. I have good faith: "A fine morning, Mr Kelly!" plans of Grove Park. the Trojan war – is an idea too attractive asked the current vicar about the gargoyles for medieval chroniclers, the writers of the but he had not heard the legend and there I was astounded at the reply. The dear old John found the well in the back garden of British Empire and twenty-first century is a similar story told about the stone faces gentleman – and he really was one of the one Noreen Morrin who, in keeping with south London antiquarians. of the houses on Telegraph Hill in New best! – half choked, then gobbled at me being the guardian of a healing well, is a Cross. These are said to be caricatures of like a turkey! ‘You’re a very insolent young former midwife. In his website Britain’s As with a lot of historical mysteries, there the late nineteenth century German royal man!’ Poor, tiny Aleister! How was I to Hidden History John describes finding the can never be any conclusive proof against family; pre-Great War Londoners were often know that his son had driven it well home Camber Well: ‘I was only about two feet out, these ideas, and there have been some German then. Perhaps it’s the ghost of the that the hallmark of English stupidity was which shows the incredible accuracy of the ancient finds in Camberwell, but the lack curate who moved into the vicarage in 1880 that the only safe topic of conversation maps. Four or five feet under the lawn there of proof against a myth or mystery does not and served this church for 35 years. was the weather. And so my greeting was was a big void, which was exciting to find. always mean that the mystery is true. But instantly construed as a deliberate insult! remember the theory of Camberwell being One of his three children was Rose Edith St Giles Church is a home to other stories. It is possible the well has gone dry but the place of a healing well? We’ll meet Kelly who, in 1903, married occultist and Buried in the churchyard is Lucy Warner, I would be surprised if there wasn’t someone who suggests this may be true. self-styled ‘Great Beast’ Aleister Crowley. or Wanmer, the ‘Little Woman of Peckham’, water down there. It will be expensive She met Crowley through her brother, who kept a school in order despite being to excavate but I would love to find out.’ Gerald, who may also have been one of only thirty-two inches tall. Lucy herself is This is not the only mythological origin to THE OUTSIDER SAINT Crowley’s lovers. It was Rose, while in a said to have worshiped at Grove Chapel, the Camberwell’s name. The other goes back to Leave Grove Park the way you came in and trance, who pointed out a statue of Horus independent church on Camberwell Grove. the legendary origins of Britain itself. After turn right onto Camberwell Grove. Keep to him that was numbered in a Cairo the destruction of Troy, Brutus – next in line walking down the hill until you pass Lettsom museum as exhibit 666 – this being the Local legend has it she ran away from a to the throne of the now-ruined kingdom Estate, named after our philanthropist number of the great beast of Revelation travelling circus to form her school. Despite – fled and found himself on an abandoned botanist and well-discoverer, until you come and a number Crowley had identified with her height she lived a long life, dying at the island. Sleeping in a temple to the goddess to an alley on your right that leads into the since childhood. age of 71. Another outstanding woman of Diana, Brutus dreamt of a land beyond the churchyard of St Giles Church. Walk up it and St Giles Church is Agnes Skynner, wife Mediterranean he could rule. into the churchyard. Through Rose, Crowley received his famous of Richard Skynner, who has a monumental book The Book of the Law but, like many with brass in the church. It states that Richard Setting sail, he landed on the island This path, Churchyard Passage, is haunted: magical powers, Rose took to intoxicants died in 1407 but his wife died in 1499, making and named it after himself: Britain. After in the 1970s a ghost was seen in clerical and developed a drink problem. It is as if she her a widow for 92 years. This may make exterminating the indigenous population cloths and has been seen walking along could not escape the bacchanalian spirit her the longest lived widow in history. Or of giants Brutus founded his ‘New Troy’ here since, though the presence seems of Camberwell; after they divorced in 1909 the brass is worn and is easy to misread. around about where the Guildhall in the to have diminished and the last sighting Crowley had her committed to an asylum For the legend of St Giles himself, let’s go City of London is today. couldn’t identify the ghost as a vicar. for alcoholic dementia. to the pub.

44 45 THE HERMIT’S CAVE Turn left out of St Giles Church. The Hermit’s His cult spread rapidly far and wide Cave is the pub on the corner of Grove throughout Europe in the Middle Ages, Lane but first walk down Grove Lane as is witnessed by the countless churches to the next pub for a rumour. and monasteries dedicated to him in France, Spain, Germany, Poland, Hungary, The pub's name The Crooked Well speaks Slovakia and Great Britain. for itself but it is a new name: the pub was known as The Dark Horse in 2008, and The St Giles is one of the Fourteen Holy Helpers, Kerfield before that. There are rumours and the only non-martyr, initially invoked I’ve not been able to penetrate about the as protection against the Black Death. pub and the secret cult of ‘The Horseman’s His feast day is 1st September. Word’ that are said to have conducted strange rites in the cellars of the pub. The Is St Giles crooked-leg our name’s origin? initiates may be still among us but, such Does the well belong to him? He is the is the nature of the Horseman’s Word, I’m spirit of Camberwell, with its possible afraid I can say no more. Turn on your healing well, just as much as Orpheus is, heels and walk back up to the Hermit’s and it is fitting to drink to his health in Cave. London is said to have two saints – this excellent London pub. A while passed St Paul, who is the saint for the rich, and here can often tell you more about the St Giles, the saint for the poor. mysteries of Camberwell than any amount of writing can. Camberwell is rich and poor but it seems fair that we are in the Parish of St Giles. St Giles was a hermit who lived in a cave Scott Wood is a writer and walks guide in a forest near Nimes in France. His only who currently co-runs the London Fortean companion was a doe who fed him with Society. forteanlondon.blogspot.co.uk her milk. One day he was struck by a hunter’s arrow that was meant for his deer-friend and refused to have the wound treated: believing that the infected wound would help him focus his mind on the holy.

Giles is often depicted as an old man with an arrow in his leg, living in a cave– as with the pub sign here: the Hermit’s Cave.

46 47 CONTEMPORARY CAMBERWELL

48 49 Camberwell's Green

Camberwell’s green spaces offer a surprisingly diverse range of activities for all the family. You can listen to music on the Victorian bandstand at Ruskin Park, play table tennis on Camberwell Green, grow vegetables in Myatts Fields, or take part in art workshops with Art in the Park at Burgess Park. We’ve compiled a summary of some of the best things about Camberwell’s green spaces.

IMAGE PUG in the Park

50 51 BURGESS PARK BRUNSWICK PARK CAMBERWELL GREEN

OVERVIEW At 46 hectares, Burgess Park is → Car park OVERVIEW Brunswick Park is a lovely OVERVIEW Camberwell Green is the one of the largest parks in South London. → Fishing (permits from the council) neighbourhood park, which was awarded historic centre of Camberwell. The Green It has been re-landscaped in 2012 and → BMX Track the coveted Green Flag status in 2012. has been the focus of local life for many 2019. This has included taking out old → Lake hundreds of years, once a market and a roads and putting in new walkways, → Giraffe House (after-school activites) HISTORY It was originally named trading place, before becoming an area woodland, lawns, BBQ areas, stunning → Sports Centre Brunswick Square in celebration of the of recreation. Today the centrally located prairie planting and extending the lake, → Community Cycleworks – Bike repair marriage of King George IV to Caroline, the green has a children’s play area and table and a new bridge. The wow factor comes → Tennis Centre daughter of the Duke of Brunswick, and tennis tables from several new ‘hills’ which provide → Toilets was intended as a private square for the panoramic views to the north and ACTIVITIES Burgess Park runs a diverse adjoining residents. It was acquired by the HISTORY The ancient village of Camberwell envelope the park in green views, as well programme of events, from outdoor film council in 1901 and opened as a public had no market place and Camberwell as two 30ft fountains in the extended lake. screenings to wild and edible walks. park in 1907. Green became the centre of social activity. Within the park is Chumleigh Gardens – For further information, please visit the From 1279 until 1855 an annual fair was held a world garden that reflects styles and Friends’ website (details below). Burgess FACILITIES to celebrate the Feast of Saint Giles. In 1885 plants from different parts of the world, Park is also home to: → Children’s play area the green was acquired, on a 1000 year including African and Caribbean, Chinese, lease, now held by Southwark Council, with → Tennis courts Islamic and Mediterranean gardens. Art in the Park An arts education charity covenants requiring it to be kept as ‘an There are also raised beds for community who offer a wide range of courses, → The Bower gallery and printing press ornamental pleasure ground for the benefit gardeners and school groups to grow their workshops, events and activities for visitors → Café of the inhabitants of the Parish'. own plants. of all ages throughout the year. artinthepark.co.uk ACTIVITIES The Friends of Brunswick FACILITIES HISTORY Burgess Park is an unusual park, Park organise plantings throughout → Children’s play area in that it was not formed from common Theatre Deli Offering rehearsal and the year, fetes, Scrufts – the annual dog → Table tennis land, fields or an old manorial estate, like development support to theatre, comedy show, coffee mornings and a range of → Toilet most London parks. Instead, it rose from and drama, and public performances. arts workshops and events. the rubble of 19th century terrace housing theatredeli.co.uk/in-camberwell ACTIVITIES A Farmers’ Market is held on and factories that were bulldozed after The Bower In recent years the derelict Camberwell Green every Saturday from World War II to make way for a new ‘green Glengall Wharf Garden Community food toilet block in the park has been 10 – 2pm. The Green is also a popular space lung’. To give an indication of how much growing project running various sessions transformed into an art gallery. for arts and community events, including the landscape of the area has changed each week including volunteering drop-in They organise exhibitions and events those held as part of the annual Camberwell since the park was built, the park entrance Sundays. burgessparkfoodproject.org.uk and produce books with artists and Arts Festival. Look out for the sculptural on Camberwell Rd was once underwater – writers on site. bench, created by artist Rossen Daskalov part of the Grand Surrey Canal route. The Friends of Burgess Park are an thebower.org.uk and based on the theme of reconnecting, association of people and other interested with each other and with nature. FACILITIES groups who are concerned to protect, The Friends of Brunswick Park → 2 Playgrounds & under 5s playground promote and enhance the park. They meet Everyone is welcome to join this group and Friends of Camberwell Green → BBQ area regularly and welcome new members. support their wonderful local park. facebook.com/pg/friends-of-Camberwell- → Café friendsofburgesspark.org.uk facebook.com/brunswickparkfriends green-1618677981715982

52 53

MYATT’S FIELDS PARK RUSKIN PARK

OVERVIEW It's everything a London park FACILITIES OVERVIEW Ruskin Park is a large should be, from beautifully restored → Café Edwardian park at the top of Denmark Victorian features to imaginative events → Greenhouses Hill, with open spaces for sprawling out and family activities. in and admiring the spectacular views, → Football pitch and areas with historic features and HISTORY During the nineteenth century → Mulberry Children’s Centre mature trees perfect for quiet relaxation the Myatt’s Fields area was transformed → Tennis courts and playing hide and seek. Throw in the from fields and market gardens into a → Victorian bandstand restored Bandstand with regular concerts populated neighbourhood. In the 1860s, and community events, a paddling pool → Victorian summerhouse after the Camberwell New Road Station and playground, ponds, wildlife garden, → Water play area opened, demand for houses increased sports pitches and tennis courts and you and the remaining land was laid out for → Wildlife area have pretty much everything you could residential use. The Minet family donated want in a park. 14 ½ acres to the Metropolitan Board of ACTIVITIES The Myatt’s Fields Park Project ILLUSTRATION Grace Helmer Works for use as a public park. Group runs a diverse range of activities HISTORY The park gets its name from John FACILITIES designed to enable local residents to Ruskin, the famous artist, writer and social → Bandstand Myatt’s Fields Park opened to the public benefit from the park. There are monthly campaigner, who lived nearby from 1823 to → Children’s playground & paddling pool in May 1889 and was designed to combine activities for families in the Mulberry 1871. Following his death, local residents → Kiosk café with outdoor seating recreation with ornamental horticulture. Centre on the 3rd Saturday of each month campaigned for a new park on 24 acres It was named after the market gardener (10-noon) with crafts, cultural celebrations of land in Denmark Hill, and the famous → Ornamental pond who previously tenanted the land, Joseph and cooking/sharing a free lunch. parks designer J.J. Sexby laid out the site. → Wildlife garden and pond Myatt, and was designed by Fanny Rollo Ruskin Park was opened to the public on → Wildflower garden Wilkinson – Britain’s first professional 2 February 1907, then enlarged in 1910 by Myatt’s Fields Park Market is every → Community garden for food growing female landscape gardener. Sunday 10am-3pm with a range of food, adding a further 12 acres of land to the → Sports pitches fresh produce (including vegetables from south, which is now used for sports, dog- their community greenhouse) and local walking and informal exercise. → Tennis courts crafts. Ruskin Park is Grade II listed and contains ACTIVITIES Ruskin Park has a playground Myatt’s Fields Park Project Group The Park many heritage features. Some, such as the for younger children and a popular Project Group has no formal membership. listed Portico, are remnants of villas on paddling pool, which volunteers maintain Anyone who is a local resident and/or Denmark Hill demolished to make way for and raise funds to keep open. The wildlife park user and supports the aims of the the park. There are plans to restore others, garden is great for children to learn about Group is regarded as a member and can such as the former stables and a listed nature. There are basketball courts, grass be involved. For information about sundial erected in 1904 to commemorate football pitches, tennis courts and a free meetings and mailing lists please time spent by Mendelssohn in one of the outdoor calisthenics gym. visit the website: myattsfieldspark.info houses when he wrote Spring Song. friendsofruskinpark.org.uk

ILLUSTRATION Fanny Roos Waldemarsson

54 55 BENHILL ROAD LETTSOM GARDENS ST GILES CHURCHYARD TEMPLE BOWLING CLUB NATURE GARDEN This secret spot consists of natural St Giles Churchyard is maintained by This hidden gem, tucked behind houses on Benhill Road Nature Garden was originally woodland and a concrete play area, which Southwark Council, rather than the church, Sunset Road, boasts a magnificent outdoor a bomb damage site, then a prefab housing create a well-used community garden. It is these days – but this secluded green space green for the summer months and an site and finally a nature garden. Southwark run by a charity and access is only by keys maintains a welcome air of tranquillity indoor area for the rest of the year. Council reestablished the garden in 2014, that come with an annual membership and contemplation nonetheless. Although The membership options range from all after it had fallen into neglect. Since then (for a nominal fee.) only metres from the buses and bustle of social and bowling facilities, to selecting it has been run by and for the community lettsomgardens.org.uk Peckham Road, the park is well protected the facilities you want to use. with the help of local volunteers. from the noise of the streets by lines of LUCAS GARDENS hedges and mature trees, as well Founded in 1881 by publican John Temple Walking through the garden you can as by the church itself, creating an oasis in a space behind his pub near Camberwell enjoy different habitats including a pond, Walking down Camberwell Church St, it of calm at the heart of Camberwell. Green, the club moved to a few different wildflower meadow, drought tolerant would be easy to think there is nothing more EMAIL [email protected] sites before settling in 1931 off Sunset planting, natural play area and the to Lucas Gardens than a bizarre ornamental Road. The club’s most famous matches centrepiece of a living willow tepee. rockery. Venture past these boulders, were played in 1934 when it hosted the however, and you’ll discover a surprisingly THE SECRET GARDEN Empire Games (these days called the From the garden look over to neighbouring large public park. Lucas Gardens has wooded Commonwealth Games) in conjunction Brunswick Park School where a concrete gardens as well as large open areas that This delightful community garden has been with Paddington Sports Club. Temple mural of the Pied Piper of Hamelin are good for a kick-around, pick-nicking created by local residents out of a rescued Club’s own Fred Biggin led the England celebrates the poem written by Camberwell and sunbathing. There is also a popular strip of wasteland running between Mary Fours to victory and the Gold Medal. -born poet Robert Browning. children’s playground. Datchelor Close and a row of shops on For more information: Camberwell Church St. The garden is TEL 020 7274 2449 MOB 07932 910 247 located by the entrance to the estate on templebowling.webs.com GREEN DALE OROZCO GARDEN AT SLG Kimpton Road. The idea of a community garden arose as a way to generate greater Just edging into the SE5 borders, Green Open Saturdays and Sundays, 11am–6pm; community cohesion on the estate, and Dale is a ‘Metropolitan Open Land’ area free to visit. The garden is situated at the as somewhere for all ages to relax and just south of Sainsburys (the Dog Kennel back of the South London Gallery, and connect with nature, as well as making Hill store), and Dulwich Hamlet stadium. accessible through the main building or new friends. The scenic route is to approach it from a gate from Sceaux Gardens Estate. Champion Hill and walk or cycle on the car- The garden includes a woodland/wildlife free route towards Dulwich Village. Green The garden was created in 2016 by area, vegetable beds, a greenhouse, Dale will be signposted off to the left. internationally acclaimed artist Gabriel arbour, kids adventure swing and much Orozco, with support from 6a architects more. Everyone is invited to join or simply Make sure you appreciate the amenity and the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Its come and visit. Visit the website for opening now, as there is a planning application in geometric design hosts grasses, creepers times and special events. at the time of writing, to build apartments and fragrant plants, and welcomes visitors deynsford.org/secret-garden and extend Dulwich Hamlet stadium. to sit, eat and play. ILLUSTRATION Fanny Roos Waldemarsson

56 57 Phileas Dogg's Camberwell

I am Attlee, aka Phileas Dogg, and I travel the country, with my team of rover reporters, investigating hang outs for hounds. Booze hound that I am, I was asked to list my favourite Camberwell hostelries, from my four legged, nose to the ground point of view. Here they are, in order of favouritism.

PHOTO Jane Common

58 59 THE PHOENIX THE HERMIT’S CAVE THE CROOKED WELL THE TIGER

This is my favourite Camberwell hostelry. I am not sure about this coming in second The Crooked Well is a firm favourite. Prior to Now I am a big fan of The Tiger and the I like The Phoenix; my owner Jane likes place but Jane is pressuring me and its arrival in 2012, the critics had us believe reason for that is simple: They do a mean The Phoenix and The Phoenix likes us. threatening me with Chappie for dinner no sensible-minded dog would set paw in sweet potato chip and I can be sure Here’s why I like it: I am always provided if I don’t oblige. She says The Hermit’s SE5 for fear of their lives. Dog’s Bollocks. to get a few while everyone’s in deep with a bowl of water and doggie snacks is a Camberwell institution and as such We might not have a Barks and Spencers conversation or listening to its excellent within five minutes of my bottom touching must be revered. I suppose, in terms of or a Wait-wet-nose in Camberwell but we music. Jane particularly likes the vegan the wooden floor. On sunny days, or even hours spent per week in Camberwell are far from savages. The Crooked Well menu, so it’s a win-win. on not so sunny days as there is a canopy, boozers, The Hermit’s wins. It is basic. It is deserving of applause if only for the I can sit outside at the wooden benches is no nonsense. It serves good beer for fact that we dogs are not relegated to the I also like the décor in The Tiger. It is what and watch the world go by, creating merry men and women who like ale. There is no bar area but allowed to take our places is referred to as shabby chic. Basically this hell if another dog struts past. food available apart from crisps and nuts. like normal members of society in the means lots of old stuff lobbed together in From my point of view this is a good thing. restaurant. Take that – haterz. And before a haphazard fashion. And old stuff smells Jane likes The Phoenix because there is People are careless with crisps and nuts the waitress had even started to explain good. Of course, to a biped’s nose, The no music playing or television blaring – in a way they aren’t with sirloin steak and the extensive wine list to Jane and her Tiger smells normal. But to me, with my just chatter. And the décor – there is a there is always some overspill. dining companion, I had been taken care superior canine snout, The Tiger smells big clock hanging from the ceiling. It used of, with a proper metal water bowl placed gooooood. Antiques and old books and to be the railway clock at Denmark Hill IMHO (in my hound’s opinion), however, in front of me – not a plastic slops tray as dusty lampshades have much to tell one station and Jane thinks this is quirky. The Hermit’s has a few flaws. For starters, is so often the case. with my olfactory power. I have never once been offered a bowl of The Phoenix always has all the Sunday water in the establishment. For mains, The restaurant feels upmarket but it isn’t My only complaint – and Jane’s too – is newspapers available – not just the odd there is a French Bulldog in the role of stuffy and when I barked – even though Jane that when the football is being shown on scrappy supplement. This is good because barfly and I don’t like the cut of his jib. had instructed me not to even consider such the large screen in the left alcove of the Jane can justify the economic expense of And for pudding – well, famous actor an act in this rarefied atmosphere – no one pub it can be very noisy. And it’s a shame Sunday lunch out by including a free read Dominic Cooper once spotted me chewing reached for the smelling salts. The food – because when the football isn’t on, of the broadsheets (cost for all of them – Jane’s expensive leather glove in the ricotta and something ravioli for Jane and about £10) in the equation. Oh – the final Hermit’s. And informed her of the fact, steak for dining companion – must have SCORES ON THE PAWS: 34/5 thing we both like about the Phoenix is spoiling my fun. Grrr-not-huzzah. been good because there was nary a scrap that it is open, -every day, from 12pm. And for me. And here I have some advice for it serves food, every day, from 12pm. No SCORES ON THE PAWS: 4/5 the Crooked Well. Dogs can be foodies too, faffing about with kitchens opening here and in some establishments I have known, Attlee’s travel website is at: and closing there and then opening again they have high quality pigs’ ears for canine phileasdogg.com / @phileasdogg an hour and 37 minutes later: just good consumption. This, I would say, is a trend food all day. High Paw! The Crooked Well should latch on to.

SCORES ON THE PAWS: 5/5 SCORES ON THE PAWS: 4/5

60 61 Pub Crawl Where to start?

ILLUSTRATION Emma Barnie

62 63 One of the many pleasures of Camberwell, original character – including an impressive It’s tempting to stop for a second in this We’re possibly a little too drunk for our for me, are its brilliant boozers – timeless station clock – provide a great backdrop charming pub but we have strict rules and next stop, the Stormbird – opposite the taverns that are as deeply connected with for boozing. more pubs to see. Plus the Hermit’s Cave Hermit’s Cave – which serves an impressive the area’s cultural identity as buses, art is just around the corner on Camberwell range of eye-wateringly strong beers, students and pound shops. From there, we walk past the Salvation Church Street and if ever there’s a pub to lagers and porters. Common sense tells us Army’s training college (one of the most lure you in, this is it. The Hermit’s Cave is that we should order nothing but water; Throughout London, the social institution disapproving looking structures ever a Camberwell institution: it’s difficult to however, the bar staff are so charming and of the pub is being threatened: turned into built) towards the Fox on the Hill. You’ve describe its charms beyond saying that this knowledgeable about all those beers we’ve flats, knocked down or, worse still, bought got to give Camberwell some credit: even is the kind of London public house that never heard of that we end up falling for a up by characterless chains. Yet somehow the Wetherspoons pubs have character students at Kingston University were talking Coconut Macaroon (yes it’s really beer and Camberwell has managed to cling on to a here. With its large beer garden – perfect about when they applied to UNESCO to give not cake) at – I kid you not – 13%. wonderful, diverse array of proper pubs. for families and sunny days – it’s hard to World Heritage status to the London pub. believe you’re socialising on the site of I don’t remember what happened after that. I Despite this, I realise that – like so many an old plague burial ground (who knows By now, we are definitely in need of some don’t think we made it to the remaining pubs of us – I am guilty of taking for granted if it’s actually true or not!). The pub is sustenance to soak up the booze (this is, on my must-do list – the Old Dispensary on the rich cultural heritage on my doorstep. conveniently sited close to Kings Hospital after all, an academic assignment) and Camberwell New Road and the Cambria near I have become lazy, centring my social life but we have no need of that yet and walk where better to fuse good food and drink Loughborough Junction being key amongst round the same small number of pubs that past it down Denmark Hill to the Joiners than the Crooked Well on Grove Lane? them (rounded off with a nostalgic tour past I know and love. To remedy this, I have Arms. This is the best place for open mic The pub has raised the bar (pun intended) the Sun of Camberwell). They will have to wait agreed to take on the challenging task of comedy and live music locally: we haven’t with a meal that lived up to its well-earned for another occasion. For now, Camberwell’s taking a pub crawl through Camberwell and timed our visit too well, as it’s still a bright reputation and, most importantly, the wine pubs have defeated us… attempting to write about it afterwards. It’s and sunny day and the dark backroom list is impressive and the cocktails perfect tough work, but somebody’s got to do it. definitely comes into its own at night with (we had some time to kill before the the music turned up loud and the lights meal arrived). To help me look at my local boozers with turned down low. But we stop for a quick a fresh eye, I’ve invited some friends who game of pool (it’s one of the few pubs in Some of us are starting to show the strain don’t live locally – and rarely venture south Camberwell with a table), admiring the tile and the next stop allows the faint-hearted of the river – to join me on this arduous task. work in the front room when we order. to order a reviving cup of coffee: the Grove They are long overdue a visit south of the House is the kind of pub where such river and this is my chance to show them Next stop is the Tiger, on the edge of behaviour is deemed acceptable. The pile Camberwell at its best. Camberwell Green. Somewhere beneath of games in the back room makes this a the beautifully boho, shabby chic exterior good place for families though right now We meet at Denmark Hill station and don’t lies the ghost of the Silver Buckle – a pub there is only a scholarly (and mercifully have far to go to kick things off: the Phoenix that once boasted the roughest reputation silent) game of draughts going on. is part of the station itself. Like its mythical in Camberwell. Where now people sup fine namesake, this characterful pub rose wines and peruse gourmet menus, the Back on Camberwell Church Street we from the flames of the great Denmark Hill bare knuckled ghosts of the Silver Buckle head to the Camberwell Arms pub, for Station fire and remnants of the building’s fight on… a quick pint.

ILLUSTRATION Garudio Studiage

64 65 A Global Gourmet Guide

Foodies with a love of global cuisine can indulge in cuisines from across the world in Camberwell. The area is becoming increasingly well-known for its excellent and affordable restaurants, representing the diverse mix of people who live here.

ILLUSTRATION Grace Helmer

66 67 EUROPEAN EUROPEAN

CAMBERWELL ARMS CARAVAGGIO’S THEO’S FLADDA The Camberwell Arms is an award-winning This longstanding Camberwell favourite Always busy, Theo’s gives the people what While it’s heaven on earth to be able to eat restaurant nestled in the unpretentious ups-the-anti with modern touches on the they want! i.e. delicious and economical your way through the world’s major cuisines surroundings of a classic boozer. It is Italian classics. Whether you go for a quick Neapolitan-style pizzas. The bases are on Camberwell Church Street, sometimes the ideal setting to take your parents lunch special, or a special evening meal, light and chewy, with quality toppings like you just want an old fashioned chippy. when they’re visiting, celebrate a special they have a menu for all tastes served by spicy nduja sausage and wood smoked occasion, or just splash out on a really friendly and knowledgeable staff. Take a aubergine, plus outstanding chunky Fladdas offers that and more – fusing old- good meal. The food and drink menu seat in the restaurant’s rear room amid the homemade chilli sauce on all the tables: school fish and chips with new, serving changes regularly and is characterised by artist Caravaggio’s paintings, and immerse apply liberally. The olives are salty black saveloys alongside artisan sausages, quality ingredients, forming interesting yourself in the drama and sensory giants, and worth adding as a side, with a homemade pies as well as Pukka. The yet hearty, comforting dishes. You’ll find experience of it all. crisp and lemony house salad. The house fish is flakey, the batter crisp, the chips yourself converted to something you’d → 47 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR beer comes straight from the Kernel plentiful and the mushy peas come with never heard of before entering that day. TEL 020 7207 1612 brewery in Bermondsey and cocktails are just a hint of mint. What more could you definitely worth a try. ask for? If you’re not after a full meal, you can also → 2 GROVE LANE, SE5 8SY → 55 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR just pop in for an English ale and a snack FRANCESCO’S SOURDOUGH PIZZA TEL 020 3026 4224 TEL 020 8127 6297 in the bar - the pork fat and scotch bonnet At the time of writing, this newcomer to the on toast is always a crowd-pleaser. Camberwell restaurant scene has been an TURKISH/MIDDLE EASTERN → 65 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR overnight success. A Naples street-style FLOUR TO THE PEOPLE TEL 020 7358 4364 pizzeria with simple, canteen-like tables This fusion, sourdough pizza, bread and and benches, it's really popular with the breakfast café has a huge wood-fired oven FM MANGAL young, with students and in fact all ages. centre stage to cook the thin Romana style The regulars of this very busy long-standing THE CROOKED WELL Unfortunately, you can’t have a beer or pizza fast! It’s a friendly family affair run restaurant enthuse about the succulent One of the quality eateries among the wine here yet (in 2019) but maybe in the by a sister and brother and many of their meat and herb coated ‘naan-like’ flatbread many on Camberwell’s gastronomic scene, future. Despite this, the owner thinks the siblings and friends. The menu is extensive which comes with roasted onions and garlic this dining room, bar, and street terrace, secret of his success is that his pizzas are but carefully crafted to cater for a mixed - free with all main courses! There are also is found on a quiet residential road in ‘affordable and delicious.’ crowd, morning, noon and night. They are some of the best vegetarian options to be a beautifully spruced up pub. They have been keen to share one secret on the menu. had too. well-reviewed by the Observer, Independent, He then explains that “the flour is of an Time Out and Telegraph, and they continue exceptionally high quality heritage wheat, "We use organic flour to make our dough A heady mix for the senses of hot charcoal, to impress. Simple elegance, attentive grown and milled just down the road in from scratch" and "where possible we source essential oils and a lip-smacking marinade staff, quirky twists to classic cocktails and Essex!” Don’t forget to taste Francesco’s local, free range and organic products…” contributes to Mangal’s uncomplicated frequently changing menus of delicious arancini, they are very special. And be sure They call their fusion breakfasts ‘The Slams’ beautiful food - the secret of this restaurant’s dishes, all add up to a great experience. not to go too late for one of Francesco’s which look ample – but at the time of popularity. Go early as it can be packed "Treat your customers as you would like to be pizzas as he is always really busy, and sells writing the restaurant is new and your on ground, mezzanine and balconied treated when you go out" says owner Hector. out most nights. reviewer has not yet tried it. street-view bar upstairs. → 16 GROVE LANE, SE5 8SY → 53 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 16A COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 9PR → 54 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST SE5 8QZ TEL 020 7252 7798 TEL 020 7701 0400 TEL 020 3982 3374 TEL 020 7701 6677

68 69

TURKISH/MIDDLE EUROPEAN KURDISH ETHIOPIAN

REEM NANDINE ZERET KITCHEN SILK ROAD Slightly less well known than Camberwell’s The current manager at this new Kurdish Off the beaten track, hidden in the Silk Road is so unpretentious and cheap that most famous falafel joint, Reem opened mezze & grill is the power behind the foothills of the Castlemead Estate, you it’s hard to believe they regularly receive more recently and is positioned on the very successful Vestry Rd and Peckham will find Zeret Kitchen - a friendly, family- rave reviews – until you taste the food. way to Denmark Hill station. With a classic Levels cafes. run Ethiopian restaurant. Set in a relaxed, kebab takeaway in the front, and a cosy airy room with modern African art, the No ordinary Chinese restaurant, Silk restaurant in the back, Reem offers more His background is in cocktails in the West menu has ample provision for both vegans Road serves food from Xinjiang, which is in both flavour and ambience than you’d End but he describes his current role as and meat-eaters. New to Ethiopian? Try similar to Sichuan food but with less pork expect from the outside. All the meals are being ‘…a mixologist. I like to work with the Zeret Surprise, a large sharing plate of (Xinjiang’s Turkic Uighur Muslims are the cooked to order by shyly smiling chefs. the chef to bring a modern twist to the popular dishes served on top of a tangy area’s largest minority) and more lamb table, as well as the bar.’ flatbread called injera. You use the injera, and cumin (a legacy from the Silk Road The falafel & halloumi wrap may not be instead of knives and forks, to scoop up that ran through the area, transporting the cheapest, but is the tastiest around, He’s not Kurdish himself, but ‘…I grew up the tasty flavours sitting on top! silks and spices from east and west). with layers of woody spice in the falafel with the second generation brothers who → 216 – 218 CAMBERWELL ROAD, SE5 0ED and bright pink pickles that lift every bite. own the restaurant.’ He reminisced about Popular dishes include pork dumplings

→ 55 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS ‘the treats each time I was invited by their – made fresh all day they are delicious – TEL 020 7358 5271 mother, father and grandmother to the CHINESE / VIETNAMESE and the big-plate chicken, a savoury chilli family table.’ broth. Once you’ve eaten all the sizeable VAN HING chunks, a waiter obligingly dumps a load FALAFEL AND SHAWARMA When asked about the marinades that A Camberwell classic, Van Hing serves of hand-made noodles to soak up the Opened in 2007 by Syrian Mahmoud the Kurds are famous for, he simply said, a mix of Vietnamese and Chinese dishes remaining broth – a bit like mopping up Alkhatib, this super-friendly fast-falafel ‘Sumac!’ That zesty flavour is the mystery in a no-frills cash-only cafe setting. your dinner with bread but tastier. joint sits in the heart of Camberwell, and behind the home-made flatbread, the → 49 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR benefits from being flanked by the Hermit’s char-babaganoush, the mixed-mezze The food is light on your wallet, comes Cave and Storm Bird, both pubs that allow (that changes frequently, but includes out fast, and is virtually always more than you to bring in food to have with your pint! perfect pickles, delectable dips, and even you can eat in one sitting. It’s a great place Even with all these recommendations, the humble hummus and falafel reach to go as a group and share, though it does we are just scratching the surface. Look Mahmoud’s policy has long been to keep new heights), shish meat and the best get busy in the evenings these days, so you in the Directory for more local restaurants prices low, and with the classic falafel borek ever. might find yourself queuing for a table. restaurants, their contact details and wrap at only £3.50 (at the time of writing addresses. in 2019), it is a fresh and filling meal that Delicious, cool, stylish and comfy, the The Vietnamese bun salads are highly lures students and suits alike. A renegade Camberwell Church Street restaurant recommended - a mix of cool vermicelli choice is the mezze platter - vegan, varied is packed seven evenings a week - noodles with raw and pickled veg, topped and delicious. Finish off with a palate- go early or book. with piles of fragrant herbs and your cleansing sweet and sharp homemade → 40 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR choice of main event; pork, fish, or tofu stir lemonade; a snip at £1.50. fried in chilli and lemongrass. → 27 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 198 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ

70 71 THE LITTLE CAT CAFÉ MALOKO This lovely café, run by a very friendly This vibrant, artsy cafe filled with bold Ecuadorian family, has been described colours and patterns is a true breath of as the beating heart of the park. Set on fresh air amongst the hustle and bustle the northwest edge of Myatt’s Fields of Camberwell. Cameroonian owned with Park, between Cormont Road and the a name that means “journey”, Maloko has bandstand, The Little Cat Cafe is the ideal an exciting French, African and Caribbean place to relax and replenish yourself with vibe and is the place to go for vegetarian, delicious homemade cake and a fresh vegan and gluten-free crepes and galettes. juice or tea. The cafe is family friendly You will also find a menu of healthy juices, and the owners have also made a huge exotic smoothies and much more. Chill out effort to make the cafe eco-friendly by on one of the many comfy sofas alongside offering compostable plates, cutlery and sunflowers and tropical plants indoors or a recycling area as well as dedicating the watch the world go by at one of the tables small plot next to the cafe to growing outside. Maloko is open from 9am until 10pm plants and herbs in re-purposed plastic every day of the week, making it the ideal bottles and pots. place to kick back whenever you feel like it. → MYATT’S FIELDS PARK, LONDON SE5 9RA → 60 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TU TEL 0773 505 6138 TEL 020 3305 8913 the-little-cat-cafe.business.site facebook.com/mymaloko

THE PIGEON HOLE FOWLDS The Pigeon Hole is a laid back and peaceful On a quiet residential street overlooking spot tucked away on Datchelor Place, a small Burgess Park sits this delightfully tiny cafe side-street off the busy Camberwell Church you can barely move in because it is so Café Culture Street. They serve excellent coffee and a popular. It serves very good coffee as well variety of delicious food - the perfect place as boasting an excellent food menu with an Exploring is all well and good, but to indulge in a salted caramel chocolate ample list of vegan and vegetarian options. brownie. The staff are wonderfully There are plenty of home-baked treats from sometimes we need to take it easy. friendly and they even have a small gift warm buttery croissants to vegan avocado Camberwell has an eclectic mix of section selling greetings cards and local, and chocolate fudge cakes. There is seating cafes to unwind in. One comes with homemade jams and honey. As well as outside and it’s popular with families and having a really quirky interior filled with dog owners. The cafe, which has an old a gallery attached, so you can get second hand furniture, there is also seating vintage feel, is actually part of A.V. Fowlds some culture without having to out at the front of the cafe and also out & Sons Upholstery workshop – a family run move too far, and many come with in the cosy patio area at the back. business which has been around since 1870. → 2 DATCHELOR PLACE, SE5 7AP → 3 ADDINGTON SQUARE, SE5 7JZ parks attached. TEL 020 3784 6035 TEL 020 3417 4500 thepigeonholecafe.com facebook.com/fowldscafe PHOTO Megan Stanton 72 73 SOPHOCLES BAKERY NANDINE LOVE WALK CAFE CAFE NOIR The Greek-Cypriot owned Sophocles Bakery Tucked away on the quiet Vestry Road close This colourful and exciting Italian-run coffee Fancy a tasty mezze, some succulent is definitely the place to visit to fulfil your to Lucas Gardens is Nandine – a hidden shop and restaurant is set on the corner falafel or a flavourful chicken shawarma cake and pastry desires. A never-ending gem in Camberwell run by a Kurdish family of Denmark Hill and Love Walk and is a firm wrap? Then Cafe Noir on Camberwell selection of different breads, traditional serving a mouthwatering selection of middle favourite with locals. They serve sensational Church Street is a really good choice for Greek desserts, cheesecakes, tarts, buns, eastern mezzes and pastries. A brilliant mix breakfasts, lunches, dinners, snacks, breakfasts, lunches, snacks, teas and rolls and even birthday and wedding cakes of contemporary and traditional, its hard to homemade cakes, shakes, freshly pressed coffees – all of which are very reasonably are available. If you are wanting something come away from this cafe feeling anything fruit juices, coffees, teas and priced. Its middle eastern décor and a bit more savoury then there’s a selection less than happily satisfied by both the much more. They also offer plenty of painted deep red walls, hanging woven of pies – the feta cheese and herb pie in amazing food and friendly staff. If you’re vegetarian and vegan options. baskets and Arabic tea pots really set the particular is a real winner. The prices are just after a quick bite, check out the counter scene, giving it a homely and authentic fantastic and the owner and staff are very full of pastries – the olive and cheese borek With ample seating indoors and out, the cafe feel. Here you will find the best freshly warm and welcoming. The bakery also has is truly glorious. Nandine also have a is full of art, quirky decorations, neon lights squeezed juices at impressively low prices. tables to sit at and is popular with native restaurant on Camberwell Church Street and coloured light that add to a fun and Lots of indoor seating and open until 9pm Greeks as well as locals and visitors to and another branch at Peckham Levels. cosy atmosphere. every day, Cafe Noir will not disappoint the area. → 82 VESTRY ROAD, SE5 8PQ with its great quality and service. → 24 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QU TEL 020 8001 8322 Although it can get busy at peak times → 37 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR TEL 020 7252 6316 facebook.com/nandineuk due to its popularity, Love Walk Cafe is TEL 07951581520 the perfect place to have brunch and catch up with a couple of friends, whether you go LUMBERJACK CAFÉ for the eggs royale (they are very generous O PORTUGUES CAFE DELI Need to find a relaxed and airy place to with the hollandaise sauce!), the goat’s Hard to miss with its bold red, yellow work at your laptop? Then Lumberjack is cheese burger or a yummy polenta cake. and green shop front, O Portugues the place to go – with its huge floor to → 81 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS Cafe Deli offers a fantastic selection of ceiling window at the front, an interior full of TEL 020 7703 9898 Portuguese delicacies. Here you will find beautiful timber furniture, London-inspired freshly made sandwiches, freshly baked black and white artwork along the walls pastel de natas (custard tarts), biscuits and a huge selection of beverages. Even DAILY GOODS and cakes as well as coffee, beer and the sweet and savoury food is beautifully Daily Goods has a deservedly excellent cured meats. homemade – highly recommended are reputation for its coffee. It has retained the avocado on toasted sourdough bread, its independent vibe while still being The deli also has indoor seating alongside a delicious slice of cake or the tasty frittata part of the Department of Coffee and the counter and a TV in the corner to keep of the day. Social Affairs group. They have been active you entertained as you drink an iced coffee participants in Camberwell Arts Festival, and and delve into a coxinha (Brazilian chicken Lumberjack also has its own little shop and are open to suggestions for exhibitions/ croquette). Apart from Monday, when it is a downstairs where they host late night gigs, functions they can host in the future. closed, O Portugues is conveniently open events and creative workshops. → 36 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ until 8pm. → 70 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ @dailygoodsldn → 11 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TS TEL 020 7207 9567 TEL 020 7701 5755 wearelumberjack.co.uk

74 75 START WITH BREAKFAST TAKE A CAFFEINE BREAK 1 ON THE EDGE 4 You can find good coffee everywhere Crane’s Café is on the edge of SE5 borders in Camberwell these days, so why not – at 67 Peckham Road. It's a lovely little peruse the cafe section of our Travel Guide café with an art gallery attached. You can Directory to find your personal favourite? sit in the double height garden room and Whether you're seeking comfort, great forget the traffic, or face the front and cakes, a plug for your cable or somewhere embrace its pace and potential. Start with your child will be welcome we guarantee the brunch menu and plan your day. you'll find it in Camberwell. craneskitchen.co.uk

CHECK OUT SOME ART SAUNTER THROUGH SNICKETS 2 Love art and culture? It’s a short step 5 A snicket is a narrow passage or alley, from Crane’s cafe to the attached South and here’s a delightful back route to London Gallery, which offers a dynamic discover. Start at St Giles Church and walk programme of international contemporary through the hidden park behind, and into art. Next door the Camberwell College Churchyard Passage. of Arts often has interesting exhibitions showing in their foyer exhibition space. Cross over the wide tree-lined Camberwell southlondongallery.org Grove and instead of walking straight ahead on Mary Boast Walk, turn left (walk 20m) and find the snicket between two houses. Carry straight on across Grove Lane into MAKE YOUR OWN ART Love Walk where there is another snicket 3 If you're inspired by the South London leading to Denmark Hill. You can carry on Gallery's exhibitions they also offer free, to Coldharbour Lane by taking the snicket drop-in family activities on Sundays, from beside Eaton Green estate agents. 20 things to do 2-4PM, giving young people the chance to make their own art. southlondongallery.org/ projects/sunday-spot SWIM THROUGH HISTORY in Camberwell Art in the Park also offer an exciting free 6 Enjoy a swim in one of the most workshop programme, giving people of beautiful pools in London – a Victorian Local residents give their top tips for all ages the chance to get creative. From wash-house from 1892, now modernised. great things to do in Camberwell – drawing plants in the park to designing Southwark residents have access to free whether you’re a long-term resident murals and heritage installations, their swim sessions at certain times of the week. projects are varied and original. For more information or to register online: or just visiting for the day. @artinburgesspark @artintheparktwt everyoneactive.com/camberwell

ILLUSTRATION Natasha Godfrey (Lumberjack)

76 77 STEP UP TO THE TABLE LEARN THE LOCAL HISTORY MAKING MOVES PEACE AND QUIET 7 Play a game of free outdoor table 11 Lambeth Archives is a great local 15 Develop your dance skills with 18 A surprising and comfortable oasis tennis on Camberwell Green. Bring history resource that’s open to the public, Theatre Peckham’s varied programme of of peace is the Salvation Army college your own bats and balls – and why free of charge. Why not trace your family classes for all ages, from street dance to (opposite Denmark Hill station). Their not challenge some passers by for an history or discover the origins of your ballet to musical theatre. ethos is to welcome anyone (during impromptu ping pong tournament? neighbourhood? theatrepeckham.co.uk/academy opening hours) who wants to sit quietly. → CAMBERWELL GREEN, SE5 7AL → 52 KNATCHBULL RD, SE5 9QY They offer comfy sofas on the ground floor, or maybe their small Reading Room and GET IN SHAPE Museum is more to your taste. FLY THROUGH THE AIR JOIN READING GROUP 16 Whether you’re looking to try Chi 8 TLCC Trapeze School in Ruskin Park 12 Check out classic and contemporary Kung with the Southwark Pensioners You will have to sign in and out at the offers flying trapeze classes for beginner literature with the Camberwell Library Centre or Tai Chi at the Leisure Centre, Reception. Check opening hours: to advanced students for anyone over Book Group, which meets every 2nd there’s something to meet your needs salvationarmy.org.uk/international- 6 years old. Open April – September. Tuesday of the month at 7pm. and preferences in Camberwell. Why not heritage-centre TLCCtrapeze.com → CAMBERWELL GREEN, SE5 7AL try a relaxing massage or yoga session, EMAIL [email protected] get martial with Kids Karate or look into the benefits of pilates, osteopathy or LIVE EVENTS physiotherapy? Here’s some suggestions 19 You can choose from Monday’s Live RELAX IN RUSKIN PARK BE PART OF A CHOIR to get you started: Music Jam at the Old Dispensary Irish pub 9 Named after one of Camberwell’s most 13 The Camberwell Community Choir /camberwell-green-tai-chi-and-kids-karate (and music most Fridays and Saturdays famous residents, this delightful park is full is for everyone who enjoys singing – supportandsustain.co.uk too), Wednesday’s Pub Quiz at the Sun of charm. Take a stroll through the mature regardless of musical experience. They zenyoga.org.uk pub, Open Mic on Thursday evenings at the trees and gardens, admire the views, attend meet at the St Giles Centre on Tuesday Joiners, The Tiger pub Lates with DJs every a free concert at the Bandstand, grab a evenings. camberwellcommunitychoir.org Friday and Saturday till 3.30am, Live Jazz coffee or snack at the kiosk cafe, or bring FOR THE OVER-FIFTIES on Saturdays at St Giles Crypt,. That only the kids to enjoy the Sunday youth footie, For a fun singalong, you can join others 17 IN SOUTHWARK leaves Sunday and Tuesday to recover! the summer paddling pool and playground. on Wednesdays at 7pm in the Love Walk At the Southwark Pensioners’ Centre friendsofruskinpark.org.uk United Reformed Church. Southwark residents over fifty can take TEL 07340 303607 (Hamish Cook) part in a wide programme of activities from Computer club to Chair-based exercise, A GAY NIGHT OUT and Art class to Line dancing, as well as 20 The Flying Dutchman pub on GET BUSY IN BURGESS PARK GET PLAY-FUL campaigning, research and consultation Wells Way, SE5 7SY, is on a mission to 10 The newly renovated Burgess Park 14 Watch a play at The Blue Elephant activities dedicated to promoting the promote difference, diversity and the arts. is the perfect environment for the sports- Theatre – a great small theatre that voice of older people in Southwark. With a weekend license to 6am, they host mad, and one of the friendliest ways to get produces an eclectic programme of new → SOUTHWARK PENSIONERS’ CENTRE, dance parties, fetish and kinky parties, some exercise on a Saturday morning work from physical and dance theatre to 305-307 CAMBERWELL RD, SE5 0HQ and art exhibitions, in this hidden gem for is the Burgess Park Run at 9am. What are new writing and revamped classics. southwarkpensioners.org.uk free spirits (the human type). you waiting for? parkrun.org.uk/burgess blueelephanttheatre.co.uk EMAIL [email protected] flyingdutchmanlondon.com TEL 020 7708 4556

78 79 Getting ready in the morning is always …only to wake up in Lumberjack café a bit messy and sometimes I decide to where The Grownup has sneaked some cooperate, but not always – just to test quiet time for themselves. But I’m really the waters you understand. Anyway hungry now so we stay longer while I eventually we set out on our adventures join in the café experience. I know that with me strapped into my 4-wheel drive, all will be well so long as I don’t disturb super-suspension baby buggy with a few the others at their laptops or chatting dangly toys to keep me occupied, and The together, so The Grownup had better be Grownup is trying to remember all the good to me. other things we need in my baby bag so that we are ready for every emergency. Before we head back home we drop into Lucas Gardens playground, which is As it’s Monday, The Grownup decides if always good fun. The Grownup and I can Tiny Gym (10am and 11 am starts) at the sit on the swings and watch the toddling Leisure Centre or Camberwell Library’s kids tackling the ladder and slide, or the Baby and Toddler sessions (10.30am start) bigger kids on the climbing structures just will suit my mood, or maybe it depends outside the play enclosure. more on what time we leave the house. But today we are heading to Camberwell When I was even younger we would go to Library for my Babies and Toddlers group. Breakfast, Bumps and Babes on Tuesdays We have to get there before 10.30 or the at the Wells Community Church between seats for The Grownup will be taken. I’m 10.30 – 12noon. The Grownup liked the happy enough crawling around poking chats with Other Grownups and I liked the other babies and trying to grab their books toys, even if I had to pull them from other and sometimes I’ll sit on The Grownup’s babies at times – to anguished cries of lap and listen to the story and nursery ‘share nicely’. rhyme singing. But now I’m over 6 months we can’t go The Grownup obviously thinks I’ve been there anymore and we are off to Zen Yoga too noisy at the Library and I find I’ve for a baby and parent yoga session at been booked into Tiny Gym for the 11am 11.15 - before I get too old for that (up start, just to let off steam. This is great fun to 12 months). Corinne and Simone get as I crawl around the colourful cushion The Grownup stretched and calm while I shapes, through tunnels, up steps, down show how to do perfect ‘child’s poses’ and slides and diving into the ball pool. When ‘downward dogs’. A view from I’ve outgrown tiny gym I can progress onto Pre-School gymnastics on Mondays and The Grownup seems to think that I need to a baby buggie Thursdays, but right now I’m pooped by have lunch and a snooze in Benhill Nature the end of today’s Tiny Gym and back in Garden, which is so peaceful. my souped-up buggy I drift off to sleep…. PHOTO by Jo Barton

80 81 When I wake up we have a lovely time of every month 11am – 1pm at Brandon I’m looking forward to a rest day on Sunday, MUMSPACE crawling around the willow tepee playing Baptist Church, Redcar St, SE5 0NA. relaxing with The Grownup and The Other Please contact MumSpace to confirm days hide and seek. It’s Wednesday, and The Grownup, crawling over the papers, and trying and times before attending a group. Grownup is already feeling the week The Grownup says that 105 Lomond Road to be the centre of their world, before our MON 1.30-3PM 105 Lomond Grove, SE5 7HG is lasting rather a long time so we are is also the home of the Baby Bank, where dizzy week starts again. TUES 1-3PM St Michael’s Church, SE5 0UB planning to go swimming at the baby and people can donate good quality items like FRI 10AM-12PM 105 Lomond Grove, SE5 7HG toddler class in Camberwell Leisure Centre cots, buggies, clothing and toys and they CAMBERWELL LIBRARY EMAIL [email protected] at 12noon. It’s great to splash around in are given to families that don’t have them. ACTIVITIES FOR 0 – 4S: the baby pool, and the teacher makes sure Donations can be dropped off there on Baby & Toddlers Mondays 10.30AM-12 NOON no one’s in danger of drowning! Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday mornings Bookstart Tuesdays 10-11.30AM ESPACIO MAMA 9.30-12.30, and for Spanish speakers on Rhyme Time Fridays 10.30-11AM FRI 1-3PM 105 Lomond Grove, SE5 7HG Thursday’s are looking up. I could go to Friday 1.30-2.30pm. → 48 CAMBERWELL GREEN, SE5 7AL EMAIL [email protected] Tiny Gym again but The Grownup has bit.ly/camberwell-library TEL 07561 070518 already decided we are heading for Love On the way home we drop into the Walk Stay and Play (for 0-4 year olds) in playground at Brunswick Park which has the United Reformed Church on Love Walk. a cute little café where lots of parents, TINY GYM AT CAMBERWELL LEISURE DADSPACE There are toys, books, snacks and other babies and dogs seem to gather. I had CENTRE MON, TUES, FRI, SAT & SUN check First Saturday a month 11AM-1PM children to play with. Afterwards as we a good scratch around in the dirt with the leisure centre for times (Under 4s). → BRANDON BAPTIST CHURCH, REDCAR are so close to Love Walk café we head off some dogs before anyone comes over → ARTICHOKE PLACE, SE5 8TS ST, SE5 0NA there for lunch, because there will always to stop me. everyoneactive.com/centre/camberwell- EMAIL [email protected] be other buggy pushing parents there. It’s leisure-centre TEL 07561 070518 easy to make instant friends when you can It’s the weekend and so it must be The find something to praise about someone Other Grownup’s turn on Saturday to settle else’s baby. me into the well-sprung buggy for some BREAKFAST, BUMPS AND BABES BABY BANK quality time. We are on our way to sing TUES 10.30 – 12.00 For pregnant and new 2nd hand baby stuff free of charge. We are off to Friday’s MumSpace Baby and (in my own special way) with Camberwell mothers of babies under 6 months (term time). → CAMBERWELL SALVATION ARMY, Toddler group at 105 Lomond Road, which Choir School, and bang a bit on a drum → THE WELL CHURCH, WELLS WAY, SE5 7SY 105 LOMOND GROVE, SE5 7HG opens at 10am. It's very popular so you too. I don’t pretend to be much good at thewellcc.org.uk/breakfast-bumps-babes EMAIL [email protected] have to get there promptly. The Grownup this, and The Other Grownup certainly isn’t gets lots of support from chatting to other either, but we have a lot of fun together. Grownups, discussing relevant issues, and The Choir School is based in St Giles Hall POST-NATAL CLASS @ ZEN YOGA CAMBERWELL CHOIR SCHOOL comparing me with other babies. on 161 Benhill Road, and the 0-3 year olds TUES 11.15 – 12.15 With Corinne and Simone SAT 10.15 – 11AM (TERM TIME) For 0-3s. session starts at 10.15am. → 24A CAMBERWELL GROVE, SE5 8RE → ST GILES PARISH HALL, 161 BENHILL RD There’s another MumSpace afternoon laybringhyogalife.com camberwellchoirschool.org.uk group that meets on Tuesdays 1-3pm at On Saturdays the parks are full of families and St Michaels Church on Wyndham Road, Ruskin Park is a particular hit in the summer and even a Spanish-speaking group called for some splashing around in their paddling CRAWFORD CHILDREN’S CENTRE LOVE WALK STAY AND PLAY Espacio Mama that meets on Fridays at pool. I love being able to crawl explore Supporting children under 5 & their families. THURS 10.00 – 12.00 (For 0-4 year olds) 1-3pm in Lomond Road. Come to think of it so many different parks and playgrounds, → CRAWFORD PRIMARY SCHOOL, → UNITED REFORMED CHURCH, there’s even a DadSpace the first Saturday but this is the only one with a pool. CRAWFORD ROAD, SE5 9NF LOVE WALK, SE5 8AE

82 83 A young person's guide

If you’re looking for something to relieve the boredom of teenagers and toddlers alike, then Camberwell offers a wealth of distractions for young people. There’s art, sport, drama, scouts and singing among the wealth of activities. But even when things are NOT going so well, there are people to help you in a crisis.

PHOTO Lottie Child

84 85 SPORT & OUTDOOR BURGESS PARK A teenager’s personal On the east side, you can find: SOUTHWARK TENNIS CLUB: BE ACTIVE BETHWIN ROAD ADVENTURE view by Ezra Lee Moy. → Another playground, with a cafe next deliver regular coaching programmes PLAYGROUND (for 6-16 year olds) has to it during the term and school holidays. far more to offer than the name suggests. Burgess Park is a large park in the northeast → Two beautiful seasonal flower gardens Typical cost is £45 for a 1 day per week Activities include trips, snooker, table of Camberwell. Unlike many parks in London, term time training programme. tennis, football (with Millwall coaches), and → A boxing club and a theatre, just across the land Burgess Park is built on was once full TEL 020 7703 4275 meditation. But that’s not all. Older kids do Wells Way from the BMX track. The of housing. However, most of it was destroyed southwarkcitytennisclub.org.uk work experience in preparation for leaving building that these are located in was in the blitz, and it was decided to put a park school. And the large kitchen is used for once a library there instead of more apartment blocks. community cooks. I don’t know about you, but I think that was → A large sports area, with many different MYATT’S FIELD PARK has a purpose-built TEL 020 7703 4281 a great idea. activities including a football pitch and children’s centre, the Mulberry Centre, a cricket field which houses: The One O’Clock Club The park is split down the middle by Wells → A very large pond. On the southeast on Monday, Tuesday and Friday; Family DOG KENNEL HILL ADVENTURE Way, with a tunnel and a few zebra crossings bank, there are some reeds. If you’re Activities monthly (every 3rd Saturday PLAYGROUND For over 40 years DKHAP from one side to the other. lucky you may even find a swan's nest! 10-12.00) for crafts, cultural celebrations has given children 5-16 years old the → An old bridge that seems to lead to and cooking/sharing a free lunch. opportunity to play freely and take risks On the west side, there is: nowhere. It used to cross a canal, but in a safe and stimulating environment → A short nature trail the canal was filled in. The bridge Stay and Play – free sessions for under 5s with qualified staff on hand to supervise. → A fun and unique playground made stayed there as a reminder of the old on Monday, Thursday and Fridays run by In addition to the adventure playground of wooden dodecahedrons days. If you walk the paved path that Mulberry Outdoor Pre-School. Information they offer football, basketball, pool, is on the website under Visit the Park. table tennis, climbing structures, swings, → A BMX track (you can take lessons there, traces over where the canal used to myattsfieldspark.info gardening, music workshops, arts and but it costs money) run, you’ll end up at the Peckham Library! crafts, Xbox360, internet access, tshirt → An exercise area, behind lots of artificial making, sewing, baking classes and clay hills planted with wildflowers Camberwell wouldn’t be the same without RUSKIN PARK has a playground suitable work. They also run holiday play schemes. → An adventure playground across the Burgess Park. Make sure to check it out. for younger children and a popular dkhap.org.uk path from the BMX track. Sadly, it was paddling pool, which remains open due to deemed unsafe and was demolished in fundraising and maintenance by volunteers. 2018. At the time of this writing, it hasn’t CAMBERWELL LEISURE CENTRE offer The tennis courts host regular lessons for FC CAMBERWELL recognises the been rebuilt loads of sessions either free or at low cost all ages, while the wildlife garden is a great importance of children playing regular → Lots of open fields. Perfect for kids to Southwark members. Check the specific space for children to learn about nature. team sports. They learn not only sporting to play football times for free Swim and Gym sessions for skills but much needed life skills including 11-15 year olds. Other activities for all ages To find out more about activities for working in teams and communication. If → Tennis courts! Near the tennis courts include gymnastics, karate and capoeira. children and young people visit the you are interested in getting your child there is a small cafe. If you talk to the TEL 03330 050401 Friends of Ruskin Park website: active through football or one of our other man at the counter he’ll let you use everyoneactive.com/camberwell friendsofruskinpark.org.uk weekly sports please get in touch via the an available court for free! website or social media. fccamberwell.com

86 87 ART DRAMA SCOUTS YOUTH CLUBS THE SOUTH LONDON GALLERY (SLG) THE BLUE ELEPHANT THEATRE holds THE 23RD CAMBERWELL SCOUTS BRADFIELD YOUTH CLUB, hosts a range of activities and events for regular drama sessions for young people has been running in the Camberwell area → 5-13 COMMERCIAL WAY, SE15 6DQ young people. The Art Assassins is a group at the theatre and in other local spaces. since 1912. Their home since 1968 is a TEL 0207 703 2692 of young people aged 14–20 who meet Participants work towards a performance purpose-built Scout Hall on the Gilesmead every Tuesday and together have curated at the end of each term, inspired by their Estate opposite St Giles Church. They seek exhibitions and events, formed a political own ideas and interests. to actively engage and support young boys BRANDON YOUTH CENTRE party, directed a short film, made a video TEL 020 7701 0100 and girls (between ages 6-18 year olds) → 19 MADDOCK WAY, COOKS ROAD, SE17 3NH game and designed hair products. blueelephanttheatre.co.uk in their personal development, empowering TEL 0207 735 2506 them to make a positive contribution Sunday Spot is a weekly session of hands- to society. on activities for families. The programme THEATRE PECKHAM Young people aged DAMILOLA TAYLOR CENTRE includes monthly workshops for 3–12 year- 3-25 years, from all background, are invited BEAVERS 6-8 years on a Thursday → 1 EAST SURREY GROVE, SE15 6DR olds and an artist-designed space that to study performance out of school – CUBS 8-10 years on a Wednesday TEL 0207 703 9996 supports self-directed play for younger with the goal of improving self-esteem, SCOUTS 10-14 years on a Monday children. The Big Family Press is open at raising ambition and discovering the EXPLORERS 14-18 years on a Tuesday. the Fire Station on the first Saturday of arts. Theatre Peckham Academy offers 30 NEW VENTURE YOUTH CENTRE the month, and invites children aged 5–12 different classes a week – including acting, Full info can be found online and across → SUCCESS HOUSE, 45 COOPERS RD, SE1 5ZT and their families to learn how to riso singing, musical theatre, ballet, tap, music all the social medias. Come along and TEL 0207 237 9312 print, share their stories and make a DIY production, writing and street dance. join the adventure! publication. For information on any of theatrepeckham.co.uk 23rdcamberwell.com these activities. BEDE YOUTH ADVENTURE PROJECT TEL 020 7703 6120 → ABBEYFIELD ROAD, SE16 2BS southlondongallery.org MUSIC YOUTH SUPPORT & ADVOCACY TEL 0207 231 6027 CAMBERWELL CHOIR SCHOOL CAMBRIDGE HOUSE YOUNG PEOPLE’S is a fantastic, fully inclusive community PROJECT When a young person in ART IN THE PARK is a charity devoted to music project for 0 – 18 year olds living Southwark faces a crisis in their life they DOWNSIDE FISHER YOUTH CLUB enriching Londoners’ lives and environment in Camberwell and Peckham. can find support at Cambridge House in → COXSON PLACE, DRUID STREET, SE1 2EZ through visual arts. They are involved in many different ways. They have services that TEL 0207 939 7400 community, studio and public art projects. All children are welcome with or without respond to local people’s needs including Their well-resourced studios are located any musical ability, and as well as singing ways to build emotional resilience, anger in the centre of Burgess Park, and run by a skills any child can try a wide variety of management and some mental health SALMON YOUTH CENTRE team of experienced and talented artists. musical instruments (ukulele, guitar, violin, issues. The RISE Youth programme offers → 43 JAMAICA ROAD, SE16 4TE Offering free drawing clubs, gallery visits keyboard, steel pan, and more unusual long term intensive support for marginalised TEL 0207 237 3788 and afterschool workshops for young ones too). Every Saturday (term time) young people. And the Disabled People’s people: check out their programme on in age-banded sessions. Empowerment services run creative arts and social media: → ST GILES HALL, BENHILL ROAD, SE5 sports projects for all ages (11+). For further ST GILES TRUST @artinburgesspark EMAIL [email protected] information contact Cambridge House. → GANG EXIT PROGRAMME, GEORGIAN HOUSE, @artintheparktwt camberwellchoirschohol.org.uk EMAIL [email protected] TEL 020 7358 7000 64-68 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8JB TEL 0207 708 8000

88 89 Shopping in Camberwell

There’s a lot more to Camberwell than meets the eye: you just need to be prepared to look beyond the obvious.

ILLUSTRATION Aysha Tengiz

90 91 Some of Camberwell’s best shops are CAMBERWELL SUPERSTORE BRIGHT PRINTERS & STATIONERS RAT RECORDS not the best-looking. If you’re prepared to This might look like any other newsagent Established in Camberwell for over 24 years, Rat Records is a record lover's paradise look beyond the surface, however, there’s but the unexpected addition of a DIY store they have been supplying all kinds of office and has been part of the Camberwell some incredible bargains to be had, as in the basement means that you can buy needs, as well as scanning, printing (up to landscape for over 23 years. Established well an impressive diversity of products ladders, drills and much, much more until AO size even) and laminating. If anyone still by expert vinyl dealer and collector, and ingredients on offer. midnight. It’s also an off-license, so you needs something to be faxed these days – Tom Fisher, it has eclectic and regularly can celebrate the end of a DIY task. they can do that too! updated stock at affordable prices. For the smart shopper, Camberwell has → 32–34 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 46 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RZ → 348 CAMBERWELL NEW RD, SE5 0RW all the elements that make for a great TEL 020 7703 1357 TEL 020 7738 5017 ratrecordsuk.net London neighbourhood: well-stocked greengrocers; decent bakeries; an independent record shop; places to buy HOWARD BROS COWLING & WILCOX SOPHOCLES BAKERY art books; art materials, vintage clothing Another great ironmongers in Camberwell. The largest art supplier south of the river, This long-established Camberwell favourite and a computer repair shop - not to → 4A COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 9PR Cowling and Wilcox also stock a range of is a specialist Greek bakery selling olive, mention a useful cluster of chemists and creative gifts, with an inventive craft range tahini and halloumi bread as well as stationers. for kids. It’s also a great place to pick delicious cakes and desserts. Their sandwich R & K NEWSAGENTS up flyers about local exhibitions, life art bar will freshly make your lunch to order To add to the mix, there’s a Farmers An impressive stock of obscure art classes, creative workshops etc. when you tire of pre-packed alternatives. Market every Saturday on Camberwell publications. → 8-12 ORPHEUS STREET, SE5 8RR → 24 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QU Green as well as the Made in Camberwell → 10 CAMBERWELL GREEN, SE5 7AF Arts Market and Open Studios, which takes place every June and December. If you would like to buy directly from A&B PHONES AND LAPTOPS EDWARDES THE HILL BAKERY AND DELI the many artists and craftspeople that Bring in your computer problems to discuss A family-run business that has been Artisan breads are made fresh on the live and work in the area sign up to and get a free diagnosis. If it can be repaired, selling bikes in Camberwell for over 105 premises every day in the old fashioned the Camberwell Arts mailing list on A&B offer a same day repair service. They years, Edwardes offers a wide range of way. This little treasure trove of a shop also camberwellarts.org.uk also buy/sell second hand laptops. bikes and biking paraphernalia. They will offers interesting foods from small-scale → 67 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS also order bikes in, make repairs, etc. producers of cheese, charcuterie, wines, To get you started on your Camberwell TEL 020 7018 5070 → 221–225 CAMBERWELL ROAD, SE5 0HG jams and other specially selected items. shopping experience, we’ve listed a few TEL 020 7703 5720 → 4A GROVE LANE, SE5 8SY of our favourite shops below. There are many other great shops in the area, of course, and details about these can be FOWLDS SEA BASS BIKES SPICE N NICE BAKERY AND FOOD found in the Directory. With one of the most picturesque A fantastic local bike shop for custom Bringing the tastes of Jamaica into the heart workshops in London, Fowlds look every built bikes as well as full bike services and of Camberwell, from traditional breads to inch the master upholsterers their sign individual repairs that they aim to complete jerk chicken, ackee and salt fish – as well proclaims them to be. The business has the same day. If you would like a service or a as cakes and desserts. Open 8am – 11pm been in the Fowlds family since 1870. custom bike built, get in touch or just pop in. with a genuine Jamaican welcome. → 3 Addington Square, SE5 7JZ → 62 Camberwell Church ST, SE5 8QZ → 8A COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 9PR fowldsupholsterers.co.uk seabasscycles.co.uk TEL 0207 733 2283

92 93 Where to stay

CHURCH STREET HOTEL OYO NEW DOME HOTEL The restrained exterior of Camberwell’s The New Dome Hotel is a small, friendly very own boutique hotel gives no hint of budget hotel, offering good value for what lies inside. The gold-painted altar for London. All rooms are en-suite and have the reception desk does give a clue, as do colourful bedlinen, a decent amount of the intriguing icons and artworks that lead storage space and satellite TV. There is free you up the staircase. wifi throughout. Continental breakfasts are served daily. Rates £65-£95. There you will find bedrooms rich with → 51/53 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR vibrant colours and bathrooms lined with TEL 020 7703 5262 Mexican tiles. The Havana lounge with OYOrooms.com / thenewdomehotel.co.uk its 24 hour honesty bar and free wifi is an extra bonus. PASHA HOTEL The basement of the hotel has an eclectic The Pasha Hotel is a comfortable, stained glass bar which has rolling events contemporary 3* hotels that welcomes throughout the week – from pop up LGBT its guests with Turkish/Kyrgyz hospitality, nights, live music to old school reggae. including a cup of Turkish tea on arrival.

Fiona Duncan, of the Telegraph, described The hotel boasts a Turkish hammam the hotel as "Individual, eclectic, unusual, steam bath as well as a Turkish/Kyrgyz/ refreshingly different … a Cuban/ Mexican Kazakh/ Romanian restaurant serving fantasy in Camberwell." a unique menu in cosy surroundings.

Prices range from £70 for a single with Room features include free Internet shared bathroom to £160 for a family triple connection and a flat-screen TV with with en-suite bathroom. satellite channels. Rates £70-£120. → 29–33 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 158 CAMBERWELL RD, SE5 0EE TEL 020 7703 5984 TEL 020 7703 5054 churchstreethotel.com pashahotel.co.uk

PHOTO Alice Butenko

94 95 I am a traveller and a community storyteller. Stories and I invite you to walk with me through Camberwell’s streets like a stranger and open all your senses to different experiences - like Colours of noticing a rarely seen object on a white wall, that is an artwork in itself. Come with me on my journey full of colours and stories. Camberwell Delve into the community undertaking a “dimensional shift” into what Tom - the new young manager of the Old Dispensary - has called a “living breathing creature” that is Camberwell. So, I want to tell you the stories and the colours that I have imprinted on the retina of my eyes and on the sensor of my camera, but especially, on my soul and my spirit. These are the colours that Camberwell has whispered to me.

The dark GREEN tiles of the Tiger’s pub sign that date from 1900. The beautiful tiles revealing the original name to the venue, were discovered by the new owner under layers of renovation from the 1980s. The original Victorian green has finally re-emerged.

Rachel D’Arcy, (British) songwriter and vocalist working in Jazz and Drum ‘n’ Bass. She manages the Vintage Shop on Denmark Hill. Her Camberwell is GREEN, not only because of all the green spaces and parks all around here, but because “it’s an area that nurtures talent whether it is music or art. Things grow here!”

A brief journey through the stories Samir from Afghanistan, who has been living here for the last eleven years, says and colours of Camberwell. Text the green parks make him feel at home. and photos by Elisa Spampinato. “Look”, he said pointing to the nearby park, “all around here is green”.

96 97 I have seen many beautiful flowers but not found a way to decorate a wall that local many brought me to my knee as the ones I artists and art students happily use as a found in Myatt’s Field Park. graffiti board. The same happened when looking for a way to design the flooring. The intense ORANGE of its petals have made my knees stick to the soft grass Also, more conventionally, artists have and my eyes to my camera to capture the contributed to decorating the interiors perfect shot in a very windy and sunny with extravagant sofas, colourful murals, summer day. pieces of original designs, radiant drawings and harmonious paintings. ORANGE is also the colour of warm sunlight on buildings and sunsets, chosen by Patxa From all those creative and collaborative to describe her Camberwell. Spanish-born efforts Art Café Maloko emerged. and local resident, Patxa is a sculptor, “Keep trying, Keep trying, Keep trying… decorative artist and scenic painter, and That’s what everyone was doing here” is one of the many artists that populate Evagle told me remembering those days Vanguard Studios with their vibrant when “this was a big open laboratory of creativity. creativity”.

There are stories that love to be hidden or The shining YELLOW of the house door, I just need time to be unfolded. Who knows found at the end of LOVE WALK. The colour why there is an Elephant on a BLUE tile next reminds us that the journey through LOVE to the RED Victorian letter box? It is like will take us, eventually, to a bright ending. saying “I deserve respect too” declaring, in Or at least so we hope. Latin, that “Elephants are people”. I have been caught by the YELLOW and the On my first day of exploring I found this bright AZURE of the mural that stands out colourful and cosy place that sheltered on the sooty walls of the tunnel next to me from the bold sun in an unexpected the bus garage on Camberwell New Road. heatwave. It felt like it was my lighthouse This is its story. in a stormy day. Francklin Evagle, or simply Evagle, originally from Cameroon, is a The designer and mural painter Lionel Camberwell resident since 2004, and he Stanhope, having painted signs at several opened Maloko in 2012. stations in South East London, was invited to create another at one of the four roads Its RED wall explodes with everyone’s free into Camberwell. To make this sign unique, expressions of creativity. By experimenting pupils and staff of Sacred Heart School with acrylic paint and grout they have were asked to choose the colour scheme.

98 99 The pupils decided that these bright Many other colours have been registered colours represent Camberwell’s personality by my senses; the BROWN of bricks and better than the colours of the (now extinct) big old trees. Camberwell Beauty Butterfly - the preferred colour scheme of the teachers. Brick path and walls in the snicket between Camberwell Grove and Grove The artist offered to deliver a surprise to Lane. the disappointed teachers – a Camberwell Beauty painted on the wall opposite the The GREY of the grease on the skilful Camberwell mural. hands of the guys of Seabass Cycle, in Camberwell since 2013. Another much older example of this beloved butterfly is on the wall of the My senses have registered a lot of GOLD shopping mall, looking down at the as well. intensely populated Denmark Hill all day long like a silent saint protecting its The golden letters of The Old Dispensary followers. sign, shining through the night against a glossy black, in the same way as the The colour BLUE entered many of the music shines inside the premises, during stories I heard. the well-known Jam Sessions of Monday nights, and the weekend music sessions. Sherfzel, from Afghanistan, who lives in Camberwell and works as a butcher I found REAL gold too. Mary, who manages in Brixton, has chosen the BLUE simply the JazzLive at the Crypt with her partner because Camberwell “feels right” to him. Russell, told me the fascinating story of the old French gold coins. Dennis Omoro who works in his mother’s shop (G&O Collection) just off Left in a mysterious bulky plastic bag in St Camberwell Green, confessed to me that Giles Church porch, the suspicious-looking his Camberwell is BLUE: a calming and wax paper cylinders were anonymously soothing colour. donated when the Jazz Club was first conceived. The most beautiful BLUE though, (after the deep blue of the sky, of course) was The gold coins made the renovation of definitely on the original tiled flooring of the Crypt into the music venue possible. Church Street Hotel. Camberwell has a local angel with a love for jazz, apparently. Lucky us.

100 101 George a regular visitor to Camberwell, In the same way your eyes might catch all friend of a resident and probably future the colours of a RAINBOW but you won’t resident himself, told me that Camberwell be able to register and decodify them, I is definitely MULTICOLOURED, “because of believe it would take a lifetime to discover the beautiful loud colours of the fabrics all the colours of Camberwell. that walk its streets”. Camberwell has lots of stories still to tell.

The Colours of the RAINBOW emerged The night I met her at the Crypt, after often in people’s descriptions of their having shared my stories with her, Camberwell. Mary said to me “you are not a stranger anymore, you know”. I nodded happily. And sometimes the Rainbow of colours And I now feel this way, like I have been appears in one place. Take the card shop, adopted, not only by Mary but by the for example. streets and walls of Camberwell. I can now feel the living creature that Tom was Imagine how many stories this shop talking about, hugging me and taking my has helped to create with its cards and hand for a walk. how many stories it might have seen through its windows in the forty years Thank you Camberwell, for having shared of its existence. your stories and your multiple and colourful identities with me. It has been Ali, from Zanjan, Iran, business owner of a pleasure to be adopted by your streets Love Walk Dry Cleaning, on Denmark Hill and international flavours. I look forward chatted with me and his business partner to future encounters. Farahd, originally from Tabriz, Iran. They both agree, and they said it out loud: *** “of course, RAINBOW! Camberwell is a rainbow, it has all the colours!” I invite you to walk around Camberwell, along streets you don’t usually walk, sit at *** a different coffee table and look at your Camberwell from a different angle, with Camberwell presents itself as a kaleidoscope. the eyes of a stranger. I believe that you It is a rainbow of colours that I have chosen will discover many things that you haven’t to absorb with all my senses: my hearing, sensed before. This is an invitation to my taste, my vision, my touch, my smell. discover your community again and again. But it is an everchanging combination of colours. Happy travelling! A traveller storyteller.

102 103 Local Resources

If you’re interested in finding out more about Camberwell, here are some great local organisations and resources to start you off.

PHOTO Kimbal Bumstead

104 105 LOCAL HISTORY LOCAL BLOG LOOKING FORWARD

LAMBETH ARCHIVES CAMBERWELL ONLINE SE5 FORUM CAMBERWELL ARTS Lambeth Archives is a great local history Get inside local information from Camberwell SE5 Forum is a grassroots, non-political, Camberwell Arts is a registered charity that resource that’s open to the public, free of Online – a popular and informative local blog umbrella organisation that exists to work aims to represent and promote the diverse charge. Whether you want to trace your described as ‘a place for free and spirited for the improvement of Camberwell to cultural geographies of Camberwell. Founded family history, discover the origins of your exchange on anything with even a tangential benefit all members of the diverse local in 1994 by Selina Hamilton and a group of neighbourhood or look at the records of connection to the South-East London district.’ community. The Forum was set up to be local residents and artists, they sought to Lambeth Council, their staff will guide you camberwellonline.co.uk the eyes, ears and voice of the community, highlight the diversity of the local arts scene through their great collections of historical to see and understand what is happening by establishing an annual arts week and material. within the area, to listen to concerns and open studio programme. Now the longest → LAMBETH ARCHIVES, MINET LIBRARY, LOCAL RESOURCES raise them with the relevant organisations. running visual arts festival in the UK, the 52 KNATCHBULL ROAD, SE5 9QY annual Camberwell Arts Festival takes EMAIL [email protected] SOUTHWARK WELLBEING HUB Everyone is welcome to join or attend place every June. It works in partnership TEL 020 7926 6076 This is a service providing information and meetings addressing issues such as local with local residents and arts organisations support to anyone living in Southwark who transport infrastructure, local regeneration to programme a 9 day festival of exhibitions, is worried about their wellbeing, or that plans etc. You will find their market stall events, open studios, walks, talks and SOUTHWARK LOCAL HISTORY LIBRARY of someone close to them. It’s an online every Saturday on Camberwell Green. workshops. Camberwell is split across 2 boroughs, directory to point you in the right direction se5forum.org camberwellarts.org.uk so you may want to access archives for whether the problem is at crisis level, or both boroughs. just manageable. You’ll be surprised how much help there is. CAMBERWELL SOCIETY LOCAL WALKS Southwark Local History Library is EMAIL [email protected] The Camberwell Society was formed in not based in Camberwell but holds an TEL 020 7780 7300 1970 and is the recognised amenity society There is so much to see in and around interesting range of relevant local history together-uk.org for those living, working or interested Camberwell, and the content of this Travel information, incuding copies of most in Camberwell. Guide might inspire you to wander around printed books on the history of the area; and explore at your leisure. pamphlets and periodicals produced by SOUTHWARK PENSIONERS CENTRE The Society’s objectives, as defined by local organisations; microfilm holdings of At the Camberwell community resource their constitution, are: to stimulate public Alternatively, you can take a Guided Walk local newspapers from 1856 to the present; centre, Southwark Pensioners is an interest in Camberwell; to promote high by Blue Badge Guide Isobel Durrant and maps, videos; illustrations; press cuttings organisation that works to promote choice, standards of planning and architecture in enjoy her personal anecdotes, and immense and other ephemera. Their helpful staff opportunity and quality of life for people Camberwell; to secure the preservation, knowledge of people, facts and events are happy to guide you through their aged 50 and over, so that they enjoy healthier, protection, development and improvement that have shaped the neighbourhood over collection. independent and more active lives. of features of historic or public interest several centuries. To find out when the next → JOHN HARVARD LIBRARY, 211 BOROUGH EMAIL [email protected] in Camberwell. Camberwell and Denmark Hill walk will be HIGH ST, SE1 1JA TEL 020 7708 4556 camberwellsociety.org.uk go to: walks.com EMAIL [email protected] southwarkpensioners.org.uk

106 107 Camberwell Directory

Whether you want to dine or drink, purchase unusual gifts or vinyl records, keep fit or get your nails done, Camberwell is home to a wealth of shops, services and amenities.

We’ve selected a few of our favourites to get you started, and would love to hear your suggestions for future editions of the Camberwell Directory at [email protected]

ILLUSTRATION Andrew Cadey

108 109 CAFES PARK CAFES

CRANES CAFÉ PIGEONHOLE CAFÉ MORE FLOUR TO THE PEOPLE THE LITTLE CAT CAFÉ → 67 PECKHAM RD, SE5 8UH → 2 DACHELOR PLACE (OFF → 16A COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 9PR → MYATTS FIELDS PARK, SE5 9RA (ATTACHED TO SOUTH LONDON GALLERY) CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST) SE5 7AP TEL 020 3982 3374 TEL 07735 056138 TEL 020 7207 2524 TEL 020 3784 6035 flour2people.co.uk the-little-cat-café.business.site craneskitchen.co.uk thepigeonholecafe.com

BREWBIRD CAFÉ MALOKO CAFÉ TOSCANA RUSKIN PARK CAFÉ – NEAR TO THE → HAVIL STREET (OFF PECKHAM RD) SE5 8UE → 60 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TU → 116 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RX CHILDREN’S PLAY AREA TEL 07770 014272 TEL 020 3305 8913 TEL 020 7737 8244 → DENMARK HILL, SE5 9AN stgilestrust.org.uk/brewbird facebook.com/mymaloko facebook.com/caffetoscana69 friendsofruskinpark.org.uk/ruskinparkcafe/

CAFÉ NOIR GRINDERS OF LONDON CAFÉ VIET CAFÉ TENNIS CAFÉ IN BURGESS PARK → 37 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TS → 23 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 75 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS → ADDINGTON SQUARE, BURGESS PARK, TEL 07951 581520 grindersoflondon.com vietcafecamberwell.com SE5 7LA

CAFFE PRONTO MONO FOWLDS CAFÉ PARK LIFE CAFÉ → 61 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS → 49 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS → 3 ADDINGTON SQUARE, SE5 7JZ → BURGESS PARK, 3 CHUMLEIGH ST, SE5 0RJ TEL 020 7701 1860 TEL 07460 579708 TEL 020 3417 4500 TEL 020 7252 6556 facebook.com/caffeprontose5 facebook.com/monocafelondon facebook.com/fowldscafe parklife-café.co.uk

DAILY GOODS O PORTUGUES CAFÉ DELI LOVE WALK CAFÉ THE BOWER HUT CAFÉ → 36 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 11 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TS → 81 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS → UNIT 2, BRUNSWICK PARK, SE5 7RH facebook.com/dailygoodsldn TEL 020 7701 5755 TEL 020 7703 9898 thebower.org.uk/about.html

LUMBERJACK CAFÉ SOPHOCLES BAKERY CAFÉ FCB AT DENMARK HILL STATION → 70 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 24 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QU → WINDSOR WALK, SE5 8BB TEL 020 7207 9567 TEL 020 7252 6316 fcbcoffee.com/pages/denmark-hill wearelumberjack.co.uk

110 111 DINING SHOPPING

AFRO MUMII FRANCESCO’S NEOPOLITAN SILK ROAD CAMBERWELL SUPERSTORE → 227 CAMBERWELL NEW RD, SE5 0TH SOURDOUGH PIZZA → 49 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 32–34 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 TEL 020 7227 2629 → 53 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR TEL 020 7703 4832 8QZ TEL 020 7701 0400 TEL 020 7703 1357 southlondonguide.co.uk/Francesco.htm

CAMBERWELL ARMS RESTAURANT GOOD NEIGHBOUR TAPETE HOWARD BROS → 65 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 21 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 119 GROVE LANE, SE5 8BG → 4A COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 9PR TEL 020 7358 4364 TEL 020 7703 2820 TEL 020 7737 1888 / 07779 619318 TEL 020 7274 8091 thecamberwellarms.co.uk goodneighbour.uk.com tapete.co.uk

THE CROOKED WELL RESTAURANT HAYATT LEBANESE AND MOROCCAN THEO’S PIZZERIA A & B PHONES AND LAPTOPS → 16 GROVE LANE, SE5 8SY RESTAURANT → 2 GROVE LANE, SE5 8SY → 67 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS TEL 020 7252 7798 → 22 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QU TEL 020 3026 4224 TEL 020 7018 5070 thecrookedwell.com TEL 020 7701 6004 theospizzeria.com hyatt.org.uk

CARAVAGGIO MALOKO CREPERIE VAN HING R & K NEWSAGENTS → 47 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 60 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TU → 42 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 10 CAMBERWELL GREEN, SE5 7AF TEL 020 7207 1612 TEL 020 3305 8913 TEL 020 7703 9707 facebook.com/mymaloko

FALAFEL AND SHAWARMA NANDINE KURDISH RESTAURANT VINEYARD, JOJO’S SHOES → 27 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 82 VESTRY RD & 45 CAMBERWELL → 3-5 CAMBERWELL GROVE, SE5 8JA → 30 CAMBERWELL CHURCH STREET SE5 TEL 07910 000108 CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR TEL 020 7703 2131 8QZ TEL 020 8001 8322 vineyardgreektaverna.co.uk TEL 020 7703 1113 facebook.com/nandineUK

FLADDA FISH AND CHIPS NEW DIWANIAM WULI WULI COWLING & WILCOX (ART SHOP) → 55 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 225A CAMBERWELL NEW RD, SE5 0TH → 15 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8TR → 8–12 ORPHEUS STREET, SE5 8RR TEL 020 8127 6297 TEL 020 7703 9318 TEL 020 7708 5024 TEL 020 7703 1342 facebook.com/pages/Fladda-Fish-Chips/ newdewaniamonline.co.uk wuliwulicamberwell.co.uk 360063767782315

FM MANGAL TURKISH RESTAURANT REEM ZERET EDWARDES → 54 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 55 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS → 216-218 CAMBERWELL RD, SE5 0ED → 221–225 CAMBERWELL ROAD, SE5 0HG TEL 020 7701 6677 TEL 020 7358 5271 TEL 020 7701 8587 TEL 020 7703 5720 fmmangal.co.uk zeretkitchen.com 112 113 SHOPPING HAIR PUBS

SEA BASS BIKES ARMANI BARBERS THE PHOENIX THE CAMBERWELL ARMS THE GOLDEN GOOSE → 62 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 76 CAMBERWELL CHURCH STREET, → WINDSOR WALK, SE5 8BB → 65 CAMBERWELL CHURCH → 146 CAMBERWELL NEW TEL 020 7703 3470 SE5 8QZ TEL 020 7703 8767 STREET, SE5 8TR ROAD, SE5 0RR TEL 020 7277 2601 TEL 07933 486328

RAT RECORDS GABBYS UNISEX HAIR SALON FOX ON THE HILL THE STORMBIRD THE KENNINGTON → 348 CAMBERWELL NEW RD, SE5 0RW → 52 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 149 DENMARK HILL, → 25 CAMBERWELL CHURCH → 60 CAMBERWELL NEW ratrecordsuk.net TEL 020 35829737 SE5 8EH STREET, SE5 8TR ROAD, SE5 0RS TEL 020 7738 4756 TEL 020 7708 4460 TEL 020 7735 9990

SOPHOCLES BAKERY HAIR SHACK JOINER’S ARMS GEORGE CANNING CLARENDON ARMS → 24 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QU → 78 CAMBERWELL CHURCH ST, SE5 8QZ → 35 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RS → 123 GROVE LANE, SE5 8BJ → 225 CAMBERWELL TEL 020 7708 0497 TEL 020 7701 1957 TEL 020 7274 5503 NEW ROAD, SE5 0TH

THE HILL BAKERY AND DELI HIIKUSS HAIR THE TIGER THE OLD DISPENSARY THE CAMBRIA → 4A GROVE LANE, SE5 8SY → 222 CAMBERWELL ROAD, SE5 0ED → 18 CAMBERWELL → 325 CAMBERWELL NEW → 40 KEMERTON RD, TEL 020 7701 6478 GREEN, SE5 7AA ROAD, SE5 0TF SE5 9AR TEL 020 7703 5246 TEL 020 7737 2000

SPICE N NICE BAKERY AND FOOD OFF-CUT HERMIT’S CAVE THE NAG’S HEAD, ST GEORGE’S TAVERN, → 8A COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 9PR → 1 CAMBERWELL GROVE, SE5 8JA → 28 CAMBERWELL CHURCH → 242 CAMBERWELL → 14 COLEMAN RD, SE5 7TG TEL 0207 733 2283 TEL 020 7458 4751 STREET, SE5 8QU ROAD, SE5 0DP TEL 020 7277 1790 TEL 020 7703 3188

TFC (TURKISH FOOD CENTRE) ROSE & CROWN HAIRDRESSING CROOKED WELL THE SUN OF CAMBERWELL THE FLYING DUTCHMAN → 303 CAMBERWELL NEW RD SE5 0TF → 106 DENMARK HILL, SE5 8RX → 16 GROVE LANE, SE5 8SY → 61-63 COLDHARBOUR → 156 WELLS WAY, SE5 7SY TEL 020 7701 5705 TEL 07958 995302 TEL 020 7252 7798 LANE, SE5 9NS TEL 020 7703 2078 TEL 020 7737 5861

GROVE HOUSE THE JUNCTION → 26 CAMBERWELL GROVE, → 171 COLDHARBOUR LANE, SE5 8RE SE5 9PA TEL 020 3247 1001 TEL 020 3715 2762

114 115 BURGESS PARK

BANY ROAD AL CULTURAL 14 BURGESS 1. BLUE ELEPHANT THEATRE RUSKIN ST PARK JOHN 2. CAMBERWELL COLLEGE OF ARTS BETHWIN RD 01 CAMBERWELL 3. CAMBERWELL LEISURE CENTRE S O U 4. CAMBERWELL LIBRARY TH A 22 M L PT 5. THEATRE PECKHAM O O N M W OND GROVE AY 6. MINET LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CAMBERWELL RD 7. SOUTH LONDON GALLERY

ELMINGTON RD G ARTIST STUDIOS H M A

VIL ST O D O R R 8. CLOCKWORK STUDIOS D N P E

CAMBERWELL NEW RD B L

D A 04 E

D C N 9. EMPRESS MEWS O K E H THIAN R L I O I 13 F M L L

P L

T R 10. COLDHABOUR STUDIOS O D N

R 11. VANGUARD COURT 03 D 05 12. WARRIOR STUDIOS KNATCHBULL RD 02 07 MYATT’S 20 FIELDS 21 PECKHAM RD GREEN SPACES 16 C AMBERWELL GROVE 11 D R 13. BRUNSWICK PARK LL OAD SHENLEY RD U R B H ILLE 18 V 15 C EV E 14. BURGESS PARK T STR A AN N D K Y D RD 15. LUCAS GARDENS ENMARK RD T S W GROVE LA 16. MYATT’S FIELDS PARK 06 E R A C 17. RUSKIN PARK 09 N E ALK 18. ST GILES CHURCHYARD W D VE E LO L N 24 IL M

FORD A L O R U K DENMARK G RD HOTELS H H I HILL L B L O E R N A 20. CHURCH ST HOTEL O L 25 U R G U O H B 21. NEW DOME HOTEL R R A D H K LD 23 R O PA 22. PASHA HOTEL C PION AM CH

LOUGHBOROUGH D JUNCTION 08 OTHER ELL R

THW RUSKIN PARK 23. KINGS COLLEGE HOSPITAL SOU 17 24. INSTITUTE OF PSYCHIATRY C A M B 25. MAUDSLEY HOSPITAL 12 R IA

R D 116 117 Transport Information

Camberwell is well served by public TUBE transport, with frequent buses passing The nearest tube stations are Oval, which through Camberwell from South East is on the Northern line, and Elephant and Central London and trains running & Castle, which is on the Bakerloo and from Denmark Hill and Loughborough Northern lines. Junction stations. The Overground line is also running from Denmark Hill Station. TRAIN The nearest train stations are Denmark BUSES TO CAMBERWELL Hill and Loughborough Junction. Elephant TRAVELLING FROM & Castle, East Dulwich and Peckham Rye stations are also close to Camberwell. Elephant & Castle: P5, 12, 35, 40, 45, 68, 148, Camberwell is in Travel Zone 2. 171, 176, 468 Oval (bus stop C): 36, 185, 436 For more detailed journey planning and Clapham Junction: 35, 345 cycle routes, go to www.tfl.gov.uk Battersea Park: 436 Brixton: P5, 35, 45, 345 Forest Hill: 176, 185 Lewisham: 185, 436, 484 Liverpool St: 35, 42 New Cross: 171, 436 Peckham: 12, 36, 345, 436 Victoria: 36, 185, Vauxhall Cross: 36, 185, 436 Euston: 68 Waterloo: 68, 176

PHOTO by Frog Morris

118 119 The Wolpe Collection

ABOUT THE FONT Camberwell even has its own font, thanks to Berthold Ludwig Wolpe – the visionary German-Jewish calligrapher, typographer, designer and illustrator who helped shape graphic design in post-war Europe.

Having escaped Nazi persecution in Germany in 1935, Wolpe moved to London where he created his legendary Albertus, Sachsenwald and Pegasus fonts for Monotype. CREDITS In 1941 he joined Faber & Faber, where he designed many of their most beautiful and A Travel Guide to Camberwell (2nd edition) Most importantly, thanks to everyone memorable book jackets over the course was researched and written by local who contributed to this Guide: of three decades. Wolpe went on to teach residents. It was commissioned by at Camberwell School of Art from 1948-53, the SE5 Forum, with financial support Debbie Allen, Attlee, Isaac Bamba, Emma as well as designing a masthead for The from Southwark Council through the Banfield, Emma Barnie, Richard Barton, Times in 1966. He was made a Royal Neighbourhood Fund, and developed Stephen Bourne, Kimbal Bumstead, Designer for Industry in 1959, awarded an by Camberwell Arts. Andrew Cadey, Alessandro Campbell, honorary doctorate by the Royal College of Yves Caulder, Ross Clifford, Lottie Child, Art in 1968 and appointed an Officer of the Many thanks to all the local organisations Jane Common, Sara Doumbia, Garudio Order of the British Empire (OBE) in 1983. and residents who have supported Studiage, Natasha Godfrey, Matt Green, this project, including everyone who Ellen Guervo, Kofi Gyima, Grace Helmer, The Wolpe Collection, revived by type designer supported the Camberwell Banners Alex Hodson, Dan Lee, Laurent Mercer, Toshi Omagari, brings together a restored project, Camberwell Business Network, Frog Morris, Amani Nateel, Mark Norris, set of his typefaces and reinvigorates Camberwell Library, Camberwell Society, A.N.Onymous, Christine Osokogu, Joe the work of a man who was quietly Lambeth Archives, SE5 Forum and Ossohou, Liz Pembroke, PUG, Dina Rabbah, instrumental in the world of British Southwark Local History Library. Dan Rossiter, Vicky Simpson, Paul Smithson, visual culture. Elisa Spampinato, Sarah Sparkes, Megan Stanton, Fanny Roos Waldemarsson, MURAL Lionel Stanhope Celeste Williams & Scott Wood. 120 121 DISCOVER MORE AT camberwellarts.org.uk camberwellsociety.org.uk se5forum.org