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Indonesia Highlights of Eastern Indonesia (Sulawesi, Halmahera & West Papua) 28Th July to 12Th August 2019 (16 Days)

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Indonesia Highlights of Eastern Indonesia (Sulawesi, Halmahera & West Papua) 28Th July to 12Th August 2019 (16 Days) Indonesia Highlights of Eastern Indonesia (Sulawesi, Halmahera & West Papua) 28th July to 12th August 2019 (16 days) Trip Report Wilson’s Bird-of-paradise by Dennis Braddy Trip report compiled by Tour Leader: Glen Valentine Tour Summary… Our Highlights of Eastern Indonesia tour incorporates the endemic-rich islands of Sulawesi and Halmahera together with the delights of West Papua, offering an incredible number of endemic species and a wealth of spectacular birds-of-paradise, among some of the planet’s most well-forested and still relatively pristine environments. The highlights on this action-packed tour are quite exceptional indeed and probably hard to beat on any tour on Earth and we were certainly treated to a number of “bucket-list” species along with the other numerous highlights during this short but extremely enjoyable and productive birding adventure. Of the many memorable sightings, we were especially pleased with the little-known and bizarre Geomalia, the stunning Purple-bearded Bee-eater, monotypic Hylocitrea, the unique Malia, the seldom-seen Scaly-breasted Kingfisher, scarce Sombre Pigeon, recently rediscovered Satanic (Diabolical) Nightjar, Eastern Grass Owl, the recently discovered Cinnabar Boobook, mind-blowing Fiery-browed Starlings, impressive Knobbed Hornbill and Red Bird-of-paradise by Glen Valentine Ivory-backed Woodswallow on Sulawesi, the outrageous Standardwing, Azure Dollarbird (the world’s rarest and toughest roller!), the incredible Ivory- breasted Pitta, White Cockatoo and Goliath Coucal on Halmahera and in the lowlands of West Papua and the offshore island of Waigeo: the simply knock-out Wilson’s, King and Red Birds-of-paradise, Red- breasted Paradise Kingfisher, the brilliant and rare Blue-black Kingfisher, Papuan Pitta, extremely scarce Streak-headed Mannikin, magnificent Palm Cockatoo, Island Whistler, Dwarf Koel, Wallace’s Owlet-nightjar and an impressive selection of raptors, fruit doves, imperial pigeons, honeyeaters and Cuckooshrikes, as well as a smattering of longbills, berrypeckers, monarchs, owls, frogmouths and pitohuis. Phew, what a list of mouth-watering species! Pale-headed Munia by Dennis Braddy This was our adventure…Our very keen group of avid birders and naturalists gathered in Jakarta Airport, some off the back of our prior, two-week Highlights of Western Indonesia tour, while half of the group were just beginning their birding adventure through Eastern Indonesia. After a relatively short flight, we arrived in the city of Makassar and then transferred to the fairly large, coastal town of Palu, situated on Sulawesi’s west-central coastline. Loading up our minibus and back-up van, we immediately struck out for Lore Lindu National Park that protects a large Pygmy Cuckooshrike by Dennis Braddy tract of montane forest in Sulawesi’s central interior. Despite it already being the early afternoon, we did still have some time to make a short birding stop along the way in some river- side scrub just off the edge of the road and this proved pleasantly productive as it yielded target species such as Pale-headed, Chestnut and Black-faced Munias, White-shouldered and White-rumped (Sulawesi) Trillers and Grey-sided Flowerpecker, as well as a flushed snipe (either Pin-tailed or Swinhoe’s that unfortunately could not be reliably identified from the brief flight view that we acquired) and attractive Blue-tailed Bee-eaters. Thereafter, we continued the drive up into the hills, passing by Lake Tambing at dusk and finally arriving at our rustic guest house in the village of Wuasa in the early evening. Our next two full days in Lore Lindu were nothing short of spectacular and we were treated to some mind-blowing birds and birding, as is usual for this incredible site! Arriving in the beautiful, mid-altitude broad-leaved forest near Lake Tambing just after dawn, we began birding along the roadside and quickly located our first of many mixed species flocks that harboured tantalizing endemics such as the gaudy Fiery-browed Starling, Cerulean and Pygmy Cuckooshrikes, Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Yellow- vented Whistler, Crimson-crowned and Grey-sided Flowerpeckers, the unique, vociferous and eye- catching Malia, the mightily impressive Yellow-billed (Sulawesi) Malkoha, Sulawesi Spangled Drongo, Mountain Tailorbird, Rusty-bellied Fantail, Warbling and Black-crowned White-eyes, Turquoise Flycatcher, Citrine Canary-flycatcher, Dark-eared Myza, Sulawesi Myzomela and Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker. One especially large mixed flock even Fiery-browed Starling by Dennis Braddy held a pair of the scarce Sulawesi Thrush and the much-desired Hylocitrea (at a much lower elevation than is usual for this rare and elusive endemic!), while the secretive Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler was commonly heard and coaxed into view on a few occasions. The highly secretive and scarce Maroon- backed Whistler flew across the road in front of us at one stage and at the edge of the nearby Lake Tambing, we enjoyed excellent views of a male Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, Red-eared Fruit Dove, a perched and calling Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle and many of the same flock species already mentioned. Also, in attendance though was a very confiding Rusty-breasted (Sulawesi Brush) Cuckoo, a Yellow-sided Flowerpecker, a responsive but secretive Black-billed Koel and dozens of perched Citrine Lorikeets. After a delicious field lunch, we drove a little further down the road and birded the degraded hill forest between the National Park and Wuasa for a few hours. Activity was generally rather quiet as it was quite hot being such a clear day but we still managed to find a few Grosbeak Starlings, Sulawesi Cicadabird, flocks of Lemon-bellied White-eyes, a close and utterly gorgeous Superb Fruit Dove and a fly-over Sulawesi (Short- Red-eared Fruit Dove by Glen Valentine crested) Myna for some. In the mid-afternoon, we departed the Lore Lindu area and drove out into the farmlands, grasslands and woodland that dominates the area just inland from Wuasa. Our main target in this area would however, be at dusk but we managed to score a few new trip species like Golden-headed and Zitting Cisticolas, Pied Bush Chat, Tawny Grassbird, Buff-banded Rail, Glossy Ibis and several egrets and herons along the way. A major bonus came in the form of a perched Rufous-winged Buzzard that was scoped at length. As dusk approached, we began scanning the fields in all directions in search of our quarry, the very rare and tricky Eastern Grass Owl. It wasn’t long before the young, keen eyes of Mark picked one up quartering low over the grassland in the distance. The bird was then joined by a further three individuals, but they unfortunately kept their distance. However, we were still thrilled to connect with this rarity and the views were quite adequate indeed. Just as we were about to pack up shop (well, rather Poli’s café at the back of the van where copious amounts of coffee had already been made and consumed, along with the ever-present donuts, cake and cookies), the loud, wailing calls of Great Eared Nightjars pierced the air, and within seconds we were laying eyes on at least four of these massive, harrier-like nightjars. Simply awesome! With spirits at an extreme high, we began the drive back to Wuasa in the dark, spot-lighting along the way for Sulawesi Masked Owls, which Richard T managed to expertly pick up way in the distance. Scope views ensued and confirmed the ID and although the views were sadly far from satisfying, they were certainly Blue-fronted Blue Flycatcher by Glen Valentine good enough to tick. What an amazing and mega-bird filled day it had been and we arrived back at our guest house, where cold beer and dinner awaited us. It was a very short night indeed as we were all up very early the next morning to be at the head of the legendary Anaso Track well before dawn, to begin the hike up Mount Rorekatimbu in search of some of Sulawesi’s rarest endemics. We began the hike at a slow but steady pace and soon found ourselves a fair distance up the mountain by dawn. Quickly checking a potential site for Purple- bearded Bee-eater but to no avail, we continued higher towards the first disused helipads where our birding would begin in earnest. The hike up had been fairly uneventful bird-wise except for a perched Red-eared Fruit Dove but this was not at all surprising since most Satanic Nightjar by Trevor Jones of it had been done in the dark. While having a short rest at the “helipad”, a few Grey-headed Imperial Pigeons sat up nicely for excellent scope views. A very handsome bird indeed! Then suddenly, the distinctive booming calls of the very rare Sombre Pigeon bellowed out of the forest. Richard cranked up his speaker full-blast and within seconds we were eye-balling this mega-pigeon, sitting in full view. Amazing and what a fantastic start to the morning. Our guides then quickly located a pair of roosting Satanic (Diabolical) Nightjar that were admired at very close range. Yes please! Continuing onwards and upwards towards the second helipad, we coaxed out a Maroon-backed Whistler for brief views and several Dark-eared Myza were also encountered. We finally reached the upper section of the trail by mid- morning and began our search for Geomalia, White-eared Myza and further views of Hylocitrea in the mossy, high-altitude forest. Soon after dropping our packs off at our lunch spot, we were called back with frantic urgency since our local guide had Sombre Pigeon by Glen Valentine found a Geomalia hopping down the trail a little further down the track below us. We hastily made our way to the area and patiently waited.
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