Making a Rum-Raisin Napoleon a Pastry Chef Shows How to Create Silky Custard and Crisp Pastry for Her Version of This Classic Dessert

Home , Custard

MASTER CLASS Making a Rum-Raisin Napoleon A pastry chef shows how to create silky custard and crisp pastry for her version of this classic dessert

BY LAURANN CLARIDGE Pastry chef Laurann Claridge uses baked custard instead of pastry cream in her napoleon.

he napoleon is the quintessential French Richard in which he used a baked custard instead of Tpastry. It’s elegant. It’s refined. It’s gorgeous pastry cream. It was a brilliant substitution, which but not gaudy. More than the looks, however, I love I’ve adopted. the delectable contrast in each mouthful—creamy, The baked custard is actually simpler to make, smooth-as-silk custard (spiked with a little rum easier to work with, and most importantly, more and raisins in my recipe) against buttery, toasty, wonderful to eat—smooth, satiny, not the least crisp pastry. bit heavy. Over the years I’ve spent a lot of time developing Egg yolks give structure to the custard. The and improving my own version of this dessert. But custard is simple, but it helps to understand the you don’t need to be an expert to produce a stunning interaction among its three crucial components— napoleon, which is called millefeuille (pronounced eggs, milk or cream, and sugar. MEEL-FOY) in France, meaning “a thousand layers.” If Eggs are crucial for setting a custard, and here you’re patient, persistent, and precise (and you fol- they are the sole thickener; the absence of flour or low the directions below), you can turn out a dessert cornstarch is one of the reasons the custard is so vel- more beautiful and delicious than any you see in a vety. Whole eggs will give you a slightly lower-fat cus- French pastry shop window. tard, but the whites tend to make the texture firmer, more gelatinous. I use only yolks, two or three per A BETTER CUSTARD MAKES A BETTER cup, and I use mostly cream with a little milk for The custard is baked NAPOLEON lightness (see recipe on p. 72). For the richest cus- in a water bath to The custard is the heart and soul of a napoleon. tard, use three yolks per cup and all cream—no milk. keep the heat gentle Even perfect puff pastry won’t mean a thing with- Sugar is the least critical component in this cus- and even. A covering out a smooth and creamy custard between the tard, and you can adjust the amount to suit your of foil helps prevent a layers. Traditional napoleons are made with pastry taste. When whisking sugar and eggs, whisk imme- thick skin from form- cream (crème pâtissière), a custard thickened with diately and vigorously. If sugar and eggs are left in ing on the surface. flour or cornstarch, but I’ve always found pastry contact for more than a minute or so, the sugar will cream to be, well, pasty. I was lucky enough to taste “burn” the yolks, making little lumps that will never

a napoleon made by Los Angeles chef Michel blend into the ﬁnished custard. Photos except where noted: Fran Brennan

Rub in the butter. Sift flour and salt Make a well and mix the ingredients. Shape the flakes into a onto a cool, dry surface. Rub butter well, pour water and lemon juice into the center, and rotate into the flour until you have a scat- your fingers to draw in the flour, making a wet paste. Drag in tering of flakes the size of oatmeal. the rest of the flour to make a ragged dough.

Blend the dough. Controlling the heat for a smooth texture. To nounced day-TRAHMP)—which makes the pastry Smear the dough with produce the smoothest custard, you need to bake dough very stretchy and hard to roll out. The trick is your palm to form a the it in a water bath (also called a bain marie) to to go slowly and to pace the process so that you allow rough ball. If the keep the heat gentle and steady (see photo oppo- plenty of chilling and resting time in between each dough is too dry to site). Cover the water bath snugly with aluminum stage. In fact, you’ll have better success if you spread hold together, add up foil to trap the steam; this will prevent a thick skin the process out over a couple of days. to 1⁄3 cup more ice from forming on top of the custard. Don’t bake the Not plain pie dough. A classic puff pastry recipe water, 1 tablespoon at custard in a metal or foil pan, since metal will con- calls for equal weights of flour and butter, which is a time. Work until the duct the oven’s heat too di- about twice the amount of dough forms a slightly rectly to the custard. I use butter in a regular pie crust. soft and sticky ball. Pyrex or ceramic pans. The trick to puff pastry This large amount of fat is Score the top in a Once the custard is baked, carefully combined with the crisscross pattern (see it needs a long cooling time— is to go slowly other ingredients in a process photo opposite) Wrap first at room temperature and known as “turning,” which in plastic and again in then in the refrigerator for an- and pace the process. creates hundreds of sheets of foil. Chill 4 to 12 hours. other few hours or preferably flour-and-water dough sand- overnight—to be firm wiched between thin layers of enough to transfer in strips to the finished pastry. butter. The butter lubricates the layers, keeping (See custard recipe on pp. 72–73.) each distinct and separate. During baking, the moisture in the dough turns to steam, which pushes MASTER PUFF PASTRY BY GIVING IT A REST the layers upward, resulting in a delicate, crisp, The custard for this napoleon is easy to make, and buttery pastry. the puff pastry can be easy, too, despite its reputation A blend of flour gives just enough strength. I as one of the most challenging pastries to master. recommend combining equal portions of un- The most common problem for beginners is that bleached all-purpose flour and cake or pastry flour. they develop too much gluten in the flour-and This half-and-half mixture gives the dough just water-part of the dough—called the détrempe (pro- enough gluten to make layers that will stay intact

DECEMBER1995/ JANUARY1996 69 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press during all the rolling and turning and during bak- Wrapping the butter ing, despite the pressure of the steam. Good butter makes a difference. Use unsalted Shape the butter. butter for the best flavor. Unfortunately, all butter Sprinkle the work contains moisture (though the better the quality, the surface with 1⁄4 cup lower the moisture content), which can increase flour and arrange the gluten formation and toughen the dough. To allevi- butter sticks into a ate any problems with excess moisture, I knead a block. Pound to form little flour into my butter while I soften it. The flour a pliable mass; add absorbs the water but doesn’t form much gluten be- more flour if it gets too cause it’s surrounded by so much fat, which “short- sticky. Shape into a ens” or interferes with gluten formation. 5-inch square. Cold water and acid cut down on gluten. I use spring water because I don’t want to risk any off fla- vors from tap water, and I chill it until it’s very cold, which will help minimize gluten development. Place the butter. I also add a little lemon juice to the détrempe, Roll the détrempe into which lowers the pH of the dough and conditions a 1⁄2-inch-thick slab and relaxes the gluten strands, making the dough about 10 inches easier to roll and turn. You can also use cream of tar- square, with the edges tar or cider vinegar. slightly thinner than Puff pastry is made in three basic steps: the center. Set the • making the détrempe (the basic flour-and-water butter square in dough); the center. • softening the butter and wrapping it in the détrempe; • rolling and turning; this step is done six times. I’m a traditionalist, and I prefer making the dé- trempe by hand (see photos on p. 69). I find that working the dough by hand has a wonderful ther- apeutic effect. While the détrempe is mainly flour and water, a small amount of butter is worked in to help keep too much gluten from forming. You want the détrempe to be strong and stretchy enough to withstand lots of rolling and folding, but if it’s too stretchy, it will shrink back as you roll, and you’ll never manage the six turns. The key to the right détrempe texture is to let it relax for at least four hours and up to 12 hours in the refrigerator until it reaches its ideal texture— smooth and supple. In fact, your goal is to give the détrempe the same texture as your butter has at room temperature. When both components have the same texture, they’ll behave the same way under the rolling pin, forming even sheets of dough and butter. I give the butter the right texture through a combination of letting it warm up to room temperature and pounding it and a little flour with the rolling pin until it’s very malleable, like modeling clay (see photo at top left). The actual rolling of the détrempe and butter takes patience. The rolling itself takes much less time than the periods of rest and chilling between each turn, but again, these chilling periods are key to a dough that’s easy to work, maintains its shape Wrap the butter. Bring both sides of the dough inward and then the top and bottom during baking, and has a tender, flaky finished tex- together. Seal the seams carefully by pinching. Refrigerate for 10 minutes. ture. (See photos opposite.)

Roll dough out slowly, bearing down Fold the dough in thirds, like a letter, keeping the inside edge on the pin, with ﬁrm, even strokes un- ﬂush against the inside fold. If necessary, pull the corners til you have an 8x16-inch rectangle. slightly to make an even rectangle.

Rotate the dough The recipe I’m providing makes about twice the 90°, so the fold is on amount of pastry you’ll need for one napoleon to your left and the flap serve four to six people; it’s difficult to make a dough opens like a book. This in a smaller quantity than this. For the very best re- rolling, folding, and sults, I like to bake the pastry within six hours of its rotating 90° is called a final turn, but you can wrap it carefully and refriger- “turn.” Repeat once ate it for three days or freeze for three months. more. Wrap the dough block in plastic and TURNING PUFF PASTRY DOUGH chill 45 min. INTO A CLASSIC NAPOLEON Just as patience is the key to making a good puff Continue for two pastry dough, precision is the key to transforming more sets of two turns the dough into a perfect napoleon. This is a classic (a total of six turns), 1 dessert, and while flavor is its highest virtue, a trim, chilling 1 ⁄2 hours be- perfectly proportioned appearance is another im- tween the two sets. If portant part of its appeal. the dough starts to get Don’t let your puff pastry puff. Though puff pas- too soft and sticky, try can rise very high, for a napoleon, you need to do stop what you’re do- all you can to keep the pastry flat. This seems para- ing, wrap it, and chill it doxical, since you’ve taken so much care to make a for a few minutes. dough with hundreds of layers, but a good napoleon is made of sheets of pastry that are almost wafer-thin. Keep track of your Don’t worry, the individual layers will still separate turns by lightly in- during cooking to produce a crisp, flaky pastry, but denting the dough the flakes will be close together, not puffed apart. with your fingerprint. You get this ideal texture by: Keep the dough 1 • rolling the dough until it’s very thin, about ⁄16 inch; wrapped and chilled • pricking the entire surface of the dough with a until you’re ready fork, which will let some steam escape during cook- to use it. ing; and • laying a rack on the dough during baking, which weights the dough down and prevents it from twist- ing or rising in isolated pockets.

DECEMBER1995/ JANUARY1996 71 Copyright © 1995 - 2007 The Taunton Press Cook until done, and then cook a little more. Making the napoleon layers You naturally need to guard against burning your pastry, but underbaking is almost as serious a sin as Roll the pastry sheet. overbaking, especially when it comes to puff pastry. Heat the oven to 400°F. The main problem with underbaked puff pastry is Sprinkle the back of a that, though the outer layers look golden brown baking sheet with and crisp, the inner layers may still be slightly leath- water. Cut the dough ery, not yet crisp. This makes the sheet of pastry im- in half and roll half on possible to cut and not so nice to chew. The other a lightly floured sur- advantage of proper baking is flavor—only in the face into a 1⁄16-inch- final stages of baking do the sugars and proteins in thick sheet about the ingredients fully caramelize, which gives the 16x13 inches. Transfer pastry a deep, nutty flavor. to the baking sheet Measure twice, cut once. The three layers of using your rolling pin. pastry that make up the napoleon must be exactly the same size in order to look good, and the pastry Prepare the pastry for and custard should meet on all sides, forming a baking. Prick the pas- smooth edge of alternating textures and colors. To try evenly and gener- do this, you need to use a ruler and measure both ously all over. Chill your pastry and custard exactly before cutting. To the dough at least cut the custard, use a regular paring knife. To cut 30 minutes. Lay an the pastry, use a serrated knife and very short, ungreased rectangular gentle sawing strokes. Once you’ve assembled the cake rack directly on napoleon, you should serve it within an hour so the the chilled dough. pastry doesn’t get soggy. You can actually put it together right before you’re ready to serve if you have your custard chilled and sliced and your pastry strips cut (see photos opposite). The final as- sembly of this fantastic dessert won’t take more than five minutes.

Bake in the hot oven Classic Puff Pastry Dough for 10 to 15 minutes This recipe makes enough for two napoleons. Wrap any (the pastry will start leftover raw dough in plastic and freeze. forming steam inside). Reduce heat to 350° FOR THE DETREMPE: 8 oz. (about 2 cups) cake flour and bake until the 8 oz. (about 13⁄4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour pastry is deep golden 1 tsp. salt (or a scant 2 tsp. kosher salt) 1 brown, about 25 more 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into ⁄4-inch pieces 1 cup spring water, ice cold; more as needed minutes. Remove the 1 Tbs. lemon juice rack, reduce the heat FOR THE BUTTER PACKAGE: to 300°, and bake for 14 oz. (31⁄2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and then softened 5 more minutes to dry at room temperature 10 min. before use 1 out the inner layers. ⁄4 cup all-purpose flour More flour to dust surfaces Cool and cut the Follow the instructions in the photos starting on p. 69. pastry. Carefully transfer the pastry to a cooling rack. When Rum-Raisin Custard completely cool, lay Yields enough filling for one napoleon. the pastry on a flat 1 ⁄2 cup dark or golden raisins or a combination surface. Use a ruler 1⁄4 cup dark spiced rum (such as Captain Morgan’s) and knife to measure 2 cups heavy cream 1 1 ⁄2 cup whole milk and cut three 3 ⁄2x11- 1 ⁄4 vanilla bean (or 2 tsp. vanilla extract ) inch strips. 5 large egg yolks 1 ⁄2 cup sugar Photo at top left: Matthew Kestenbaum

two 31⁄2x11-inch strips; cut each strip in half. (Reserve remaining custard for patches.) Put the first layer of pastry on a flat board. With a long, wide, off- set spatula, lift a quar- ter of the custard and Finish layering. Add a second layer of set it on the pastry. Re- pastry and custard. Top with the peat with second quar- third layer of pastry, smooth side up. ter to fill the first layer. Smooth any rough edges of custard.

Heat the oven to 300°F. Boil the raisins and rum in a small saucepan over medium heat until 1 Tbs. of the liquid is left; cool. Bring the heavy cream and milk to a simmer in a medium-sized heavy saucepan over medium heat. Split and scrape the vanilla bean, if using; add the seeds and the pod to the cream. Meanwhile, with an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks with the sugar until the mixture is thick and light yellow and the sugar granules are almost completely dissolved. When the cream has reached a boil, let it cool a moment and then slowly pour it over the egg mixture, slowly whisking it in. Pour the custard through a ﬁne mesh strainer into a stainless-steel bowl. Add the raisins, the reduced rum, and the vanilla extract, if using. Pour the custard into a 9x13-inch Pyrex or ceramic baking dish (never metal). Set that dish in a larger and slightly deeper roasting pan. Fill the roasting pan with hot water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the smaller baking dish. Cover with foil. Bake the custard on the center rack for 70 to 80 min., or until a knife inserted into the custard comes out clean. Remove the pan from the water bath, let it cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate several hours or overnight.

Laurann Claridge studied pastry in France at Ecole Cut and decorate the slices. Gingerly brace the pastry with one hand and with the other, Lenôtre and La Varenne. Her program, “Food Talk,” slowly draw a long serrated knife back and forth, through one layer of pastry at a time.

Photo at far right: Mark Thomas is broadcast on Saturdays from KPRC in Houston. • Sprinkle the top with a thick layer of confectioners’ sugar.