Kick up Your Heels and Join the Party!

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The Hilarious Celebration of Women & the Change

is celebrating its 1st Birthday WHY DID with a gift for you! YOU COME TO BOSTON? If you came for a quick overview or a theme park ride, then we’re probably not for you. If on the other hand you came for a FUN FILLED tour to See the Best of Boston, join us aboard the Orange & Green Trolley. • Boston’s most comprehensive tour, Men Love fully narrated by our It Too! expert tour conductors • Boston's most frequent service, with pick up and drop off at 16 convenient stops • Exclusive stops & attraction discounts $7.50 OFF PER TICKET!* • Free reboarding FOR SHOWS THRU APRIL 16, 2005 Kids Ride FREE* (REGULAR TICKET PRICE $42.50)

Ride 2nd Day for *Must mention code MM1BDAY. Limit 6 tix per patron. Cannot be used for already discounted seats, previously purchased Only $10* tickets or any other offers. Service fees apply. Offer only valid for evening performances. Offer expires 04/16/05. “The Whites of their Eyes” Exhibit or PERFORMANCE SCHEDULE Boston Harbor Wed Thur Fri Sat Sun Cruise Included* 8 p.m. 8 p.m. 8 p.m. 4&8 p.m. 2&5 p.m. 100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE 617-269-7010 www.historictours.com * Certain restrictions apply. STUART STREET PLAYHOUSE America’s Most Trusted Sightseeing Company. FOR TIX 800-447-7400 OR AT BOX OFFICE WINDOW 200 Stuart Street at the Radisson Hotel Boston | www.menopausethemusical.com Key West • St. Augustine • Savannah • San Diego • Boston • Washington DC

CONTENTS departments

14 currently in boston 12 22 24 shopping

30 maps of cambridge & 36 62 boston

FEATURES 36 cover story museums

8 The New Face of 40 Boston Sports sightseeing Between the championship Patriots and Red Sox and a resurgent Celtics, Beantown is the hottest sports town in the country. PLUS: An insiders’ guide to Opening Day at Fenway 48 Park and a look at the new Boston-set sports film, Fever Pitch. restaurant guide 12 Leader of the Pack An international field of elite runners and determined enthusiasts return to the Hub for the 109th Boston Marathon. boston in focus

PANORAMA’S PICKS 46 CURRENT EVENTS: MUSEUMS: 36 Damien Hirst freedom trail 14 Patriots Day events at the Museum of Fine Arts Follow the red-brick path 16 Alvin Ailey American Dance SIGHTSEEING: 40 The Swan through 16 historic sights Theater 22 Big Apple Circus Boats return to the Public Garden SHOPPING: DINING: 48 Umbria 49 HIGH 24 Marathon Sports 5s: Chocolate chip cookies 60 ON THE COVER: the north end A taste of Italy here in The Hub Fever Pitch, starring (left to right) Drew Barrymore and Jimmy Fallon and directed by the Farrelly Brothers, 62 tells the story of an obsessed Red Sox boston confidential fan and the woman who falls for him. • Hidden Secrets of Fenway Park The film premiered in Boston on April 6. Refer to story, page 11. 63 theatre district dining Photo: Darren Michaels. ™ and © 2005 Twentieth Century Fox. Great eating before All Rights Reserved. or after the show

4 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 5

ON SALE NOW! April 11–24, 2005

PANORAMA, Volume 54, Number 24

Jerome Rosenfeld Chairman Tim Montgomery President/Publisher

Christopher Wallenberg Editor Scott Roberto Art/Production Director Christine Celli Associate Editor Sharon Hudak Miller Design/Production Associate Diana Aramburu Editorial Assistant

Jacolyn Ann Firestone Vice President, Advertising ench

Dennis Lloyd r

Sales and Marketing Consultant w F e Rita A. Fucillo

Director of Marketing and Public Relations o: Andr t

Patrick Manchon Pho Senior Account Executive Tyler Montgomery Account Executive

Peter Ng Information Technology Manager George Ghareeb Technical Consultant Melissa J. O’Reilly Business Manager

Marketa Hulpachova, Loreal Lynch, Katrina Scanlan Interns

PANORAMA is published bi-weekly by Jerome Press Publications Inc. Editorial and advertising offices at 332 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02210. Telephone (617) 423-3400. Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission of the publisher. PANORAMA is a member of the Massachusetts Lodging Association, THE WILBUR THEATRE APRIL 19 - 24, 2005 The Back Bay Association, The Greater Boston Chamber of Commerce, The Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau, Cambridge Chamber of Commerce, the Greater Boston Concierge Association, the Harvard Square Business Association, the Newbury Street League and the Downtown Crossing Association. 617-931-2787 PANORAMA is audited by BPA Worldwide, an inde- pendent audit bureau recognized by the American Association of Advertising Agencies. for Subscription and Member Tickets call Broadway in Boston 617-880-2400 PANORAMA is online at www.panoramamagazine.com Groups (20+) call 617-482-8616 TTY: 617-482-3444 a magazine affiliate

6 PANORAMA THE NEW FACE OF BOSTON SPORTS With championships by the BOSTON RED SOX Many a sports writer theorized that if the Red Sox Patriots and Red Sox, and even were to ever end their 86-year-long championship a resurgent Celtics, Beantown drought, things would never be the same. If psy- is getting that winning feeling chiatry bills didn’t skyrocket from all the dis- placed anguish, Fenway Park would surely see a by Christine Celli and Scott Roberto drop in ticket sales. Oh, how wrong they were. City officials barely had time to clean up the confetti h, what a difference a year from the team’s record-setting victory parade before makes. Already known to be a Sox fans were planning trips to the team’s spring train- O sports-obsessed city, thanks in ing facility in Fort Myers, Florida. And tickets for the large part to the fanbase of its luck-less 2005 season were selling out before the first official baseball team, 2004 saw Boston grow to games had even been played (only scattered seats and be the veritable epicenter of professional standing room tickets remain). sports. A hint of things to come could be Some things, of course, have changed. The team’s felt as early as opening day at Fenway Park general manager Theo Epstein, who may as well run in April of last year. Red Sox fans, still weary for mayor based on his current popularity, put the from seeing their supposedly cursed team final touches on his new roster, which saw the come within five outs of a trip to the World departure of several team leaders and fan favorites. Series before bowing to the New York Yankees, It’s true pitching dynamo Pedro Martinez has watched as the New England Patriots emerged packed his bags for the Mets and post-season from behind a gigantic American flag strung from hero Derek Lowe started the season with the the Green Monster, 2004 Lombardi Trophy in tow. Dodgers. In the new, “Epstein can do no Perhaps it was the presence of pitcher Curt wrong” version of Red Sox Nation, however, Schilling on the roster—the first time the team had a his acquisitions of veteran pitcher David legitimate second starter in recent memory—but Wells, former Cubs pitcher Matt Clement and even as the Sox went on to lose the game to the Gold Glove-winning shortstop Edgar Renteria Toronto Blue Jays 10-5, a change in attitude was some- (who, coincidentally, was responsible for the how palpable throughout Red Sox Nation. This year would be the last out of the 2004 World Series) have elicited year things would change for Boston sports fans. And it was. Not barely a murmur of criticism. only did the Sox finally claim their first World Series trophy since 1918, Even when Curt Schilling returns from his the Patriots, once the laughingstock of the NFL, won their third Super Bowl infamous ankle injury of last year, it’s fair to in four years in February, claiming what many refer to as dynasty status. say the pitching staff has its work cut out for And now as the NBA post-season approaches, the Boston Celtics— it. But with the core of the team’s powerful dynasty of old—are showing glimmers of their past winning ways, hold- offense still intact—from leadoff hitter Johnny ing tight to first place in the Atlantic Division, rejuvenated by the return of Damon to the one-two punch of David Ortiz former co-captain Antoine Walker. While the Bruins were forced to and Manny Ramirez—there’s little reason to watch from the sidelines when a labor dispute cancelled the National Hockey League season, the rest of Boston’s professional sports OH CAPTAIN, MY CAPTAIN—Newly crowned Red Sox captain Jason Varitek (left) and Celtics captain teams stepped up to the plate and proved the city is the current Paul Pierce (right) look to lead their teams to victory Steve Babineau/ courtesy of the Boston Red Sox Hub of the sports universe. this spring. Steve Lipofsky/basketballphoto.com

8 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 9

On Top of RED SOX SCHEDULE CELTICS SCHEDULE the World See listing on page 22 for ticket information. Francisco 49ers and See listing on page 21 for ticket information. on Monday, April 11 won’t be Apr 11 at 3:05 p.m. vs. New York Yankees the 1970s Pittsburgh Apr 15 at 7:30 p.m. vs. Miami Heat any ordinary opening day Apr 13 & 14 at 7:05 p.m. vs. New York Yankees Steelers. Winning Apr 20 at 7 p.m. vs. New Jersey Nets FILM at Fenway Park. Not after Apr 15 & 16 at 7:05 p.m. vs. Tampa Bay Devil Rays three Super Bowls in last season, when the home- Apr 17 at 2:05 p.m. vs. Tampa Bay Devil Rays four years tends to fessional sports was the Boston Celtics in the town team finally put an end Apr 18 at 11:05 a.m. vs. Toronto Blue Jays have that effect. 1960s, who, led by legendary coach Red to its 86-year-long champi- Apr 19 at 7:05 p.m. vs. Toronto Blue Jays But it wasn’t Auerbach and Hall of Fame center Bill Russell, onship drought. If you were always like this. In won nine out of a possible 10 championships lucky enough to score tickets to Pesky, Dom DiMaggio and Bobby Doerr. And fact, for a time, the that decade. These days, local basketball fans the game, team officials say be sure to get to a few players now with other teams— opposite was true. have been pining for a glimmer of hope since the park by 2 p.m. in order to see the 2004 including the World Series-winning pitcher The franchise began the Big Three of Larry Bird, Kevin McHale and y Fox Film Corporation World Series banner raised along- Derek Lowe—have indicated a in 1960 as the Boston Robert Parish brought home the C’s 16th title side the now-infamous 1918 ver- desire to fly in for the occasion. Patriots, a charter in 1986. The closest the Men in Green have

sion. Also part of the scheduled Ticket-less fans can get in on member of the come since the halcyon days of the 1980s was wentieth Centur Darren Michaels/TM and © 2005 T events is the much anticipat- the festivities by heading to American Football in 2002, when the dynamic duo of Antoine ed ring ceremony in which nearby Boston Billiards (126 League that played Walker and Paul Pierce led the Celts to the hen Fever Pitch starring Jimmy Fallon members of last year’s ros- Brookline Ave., 617-536- many of its early Eastern Conference Finals. A third consecutive Wand Drew Barrymore opened in the- ter receive their rings. POOL) where the Dropkick games at Fenway trip to the playoffs last year, however, provided aters nationwide, the entire country bore wit- Several classic Sox players Murphys perform for free Park, before the team little enjoyment in Beantown as Team Green ness to Hollywood’s interpretation of Red Sox plan to be in attendance beginning at 9 a.m. The bar was re-named and backed into the post-season with a sub-.500 fandom. Based on a memoir by Nick Hornby in full uniform, also offers a special menu of moved to Foxboro in record and were quickly dispatched by the (High Fidelity, About a Boy), the original Pitch including Johnny hot dogs, burgers and sausage 1971. They had some Indiana Pacers. centered around the English author’s obses- high points in their Lately, however, things have decidedly been sion with the oft-beleaguered Arsenal football photo: Janis Lumsden first four decades as looking up. Former Celtics great Danny Ainge, team. The book has already seen the full film assume the Sox will not once again contend a franchise, but the organization was mostly now director of basketball operations, decided treatment once thanks to a U.K.-based ver- for a playoff berth. synonymous with ineptitude. to take a mulligan when he recently re- sion starring Colin Firth, but for the New And more changes are in store for the That is until that fateful day in 1994 when acquired old friend Mr. Walker, whom he had England-raised Farrelly brothers (Shallow Hal, team’s storied stadium as well, including the current owner and local businessman Robert traded away following the 2002–2003 cam- There’s Something About Mary), who addition of the Game On Sports Cafe at the cor- Kraft bought the struggling team, saving them paign. The Celts promptly went on to win 11 of acquired the rights for an Americanized ner of Brookline Avenue and Lansdowne Street. from an ignominious relocation to St. Louis. their next 12 games, including a seven game retelling, the choice of sports teams was But the biggest change of all will take place Since then, the Pats have made four winning obvious. Co-directors Bobby and Peter opening day on April 11 when the team raises trips to the big game (with three streak, to Farrelly have been Sox followers for some the banner commemorating its historic World victories under super-genius head take control time now, but hometown reaction to their film Series win and receives their long-anticipated coach Bill Belichick), built a state- of the top has been mixed, despite its receiving favor- rings (see story, above). As luck would have it, of-the-art stadium (on Kraft’s own spot in their able reviews from critics. The majority of the team in the visitors box will be none other dime, no less) and established the division. complaints stem from Game 4 of the 2004 than the New York Yankees. And you had better modern-day model to which other Despite recent World Series, the night the Boston Red Sox believe the payback will taste sweet. sports teams can only hope to aspire. struggles, the finally defied history and won the champi- Now, Patriots fans are in the same position team could still con- onship. Because the victory altered the end- NEW ENGLAND PATRIOTS that Green Bay Packers fans were in back in tend for the Eastern ing of a movie that was meant to be about a The Super Bowl is arguably the biggest sports the days of Vince Lombardi: they not only Conference championship losing franchise, Major League Baseball spectacle in the world, so by now even the want to win badly, they expect it. And that’s and a trip to the National allowed the directors to film a new ending Sherpas in the Himalayas know about the definitely a welcome Basketball Association during the Red Sox post-game celebration. “dynasty” that is the New England Patriots. No change. Finals. Could the Celtics One fan found the appearance of Barrymore sooner had the cheers died down on February THE THRILL OF be the next team to add to and Fallon so offensive he created a “Boycott VICTORY—Two of 6 when the Pats defeated the Philadelphia BOSTON CELTICS the Patriots three Boston’s already impres- Fever Pitch” web site. Of course casting Fallon, Eagles in Super Bowl XXXIX when the com- Of course, the team Super Bowl victories sive winning streak? Only a native New Yorker and self-proclaimed were clinched by the parisons began to such era-defining teams as that set the bar for foot of Pro Bowl kicker time, and the NBA play- Yankees fan, in the lead hasn’t helped. Call the 1990s Dallas Cowboys, the 1980s San dynasties in all of pro- Adam Vinatieri (right). offs, will tell. 617-333-FILM for theaters and showtimes.

10 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 11 Lake 17 Cochituate C Framingham Train Depot o 8 Wellesley 16 m 5 m 25 15 o 18 Boston College/ 4 Natick Town Center 12 n Ashland 6 7 T w T Lake Street 9 M 24 FINISH Hopkinton 14 Woodland e 19 Heartbreak Hill a St. a i 1 n 21 . 1 n 1 gto lt at Copley Square in St 2 3 shin h 22 . Ma Framingham Center S 13 Wa St E. t Wellesley B A con . ea ea St. con v 20 B St. Fisk Pond al St e 23 W. Union entr College . . Boston College T E. C Newton Coolidge Corner START 10 Natick HALFWAY POINT T Cleveland Circle at Hopkinton Common a.m. and the start of the wheelchair competi- tion at 11:25 a.m. And speaking of the competitors, the PRIME-TIME VIEWING Kenyan contingent has charged its way to Beyond the start line in Hopkinton and the Leaderof the Pack dominance in recent years, having won 13 of finish in Copley Square, here are a few other the last 14 men’s titles and four of the past great spots to cheer on the runners: five on the women’s side. Last year was no • The young women in Wellesley Square from exception, with Timothy Cherigat (pictured left, Wellesley College make an exuberant spec- second from right) taking the men’s crown, tacle as they shout themselves hoarse when while countrywoman Catherine Ndereba—a the runners pass by the half-way point. silver medal winner at last year’s Olympics • The hills of Newton, including infamous vying for her record fourth women’s title— Heartbreak Hill, are about six miles from the won for the third time. Both champs return to finish and often separate winners from losers. the race this year. Also coming back to Boston • On the home stretch into the city, Brookline’s are Ernst Van Dyk of South Africa, who is aim- Coolidge Corner is a lively spot, and is ing for his fifth consecutive men’s wheelchair packed with bars and restaurants as well. division win, and Cheri Blauwet of California, • Enjoy a pre-race meal or drink in the Back Bay the 2004 women’s wheelchair division victor. and head over to the penultimate turn from Other notables include Kenyan Robert the greenery of Commonwealth Avenue to Cheboror, last year men’s division second place Hereford Street, which is slightly less crowded finisher; 2003 women’s champion Svetlana than the final stretch on Boylston Street. Zakharova of Russia; and Alan Culpepper, the All locations can be reached by MBTA subway current top American marathoner. or commuter rail. See above and page 34.

THE COURSE

ictah Sailer/Photo Run Also in the running…

V The runners face quite an uphill battle—liter- ally. Running a marathon is hard enough, but Below is a list of other race-related events. All of An international field of elite runners and determined enthusiasts Boston is made all the more difficult by four them, except the Fitness Expo, are open only to returns to the Hub for the 109th Boston Marathon by Scott Roberto hills in Newton between miles 16 and 21, athletes, their guests and the media: most notably the aptly named (and infamous) • The free 28th annual John Hancock Sports ver since it first sprinted forward in 1897, THE ATHLETES Heartbreak Hill. The elite male runners gener- & Fitness Expo at the Hynes Convention the leader of the road-racing pack has Despite its long history and tradition, the ally pass through this area around 1:30 p.m. Center features more than 150 sports equip- Ealways been the Boston Marathon. The Boston Marathon and its organizing body, the (with the early-bird women traipsing through ment and apparel exhibitors displaying their oldest annually run marathon in the world—only Boston Athletic Association, are not averse to at about 12:45 p.m.), and those that survive to wares April 16 & 17 from 9 a.m.–6 p.m. the quadrennial Olympic Marathon pre-dates it change. An early 11:31 a.m. start time for elite hit the home stretch should cross the tape in • The B.A.A. Freedom Run offers runners and in modern times—draws crowds upwards of female runners was successfully instituted Copley Square just after 2 p.m. (women at their friends a 2.62 mile warm-up course that 500,000, from suburban Hopkinton to the finish last year, thereby increasing the women’s vis- 1:45 p.m.). winds through the city’s historic neighbor- line in Copley Square, to witness participants ibility for the spectators and allowing those So whether an elite competitor vying for a hoods, starting on April 17 at 8 a.m. from push the envelope of physical and mental contestants to run apart from the rest of the piece of the $575,000 purse or simply tackling Copley Square. endurance. Held on Patriots Day, a state holiday field and keep track of their nearest competi- the course in fulfillment of a lifelong dream, • The annual Pre-Race Dinner takes place on marking the beginning of the American tors. The elite men then cross the starting line most runners get especially fired up just City Hall Plaza on the eve of the Marathon, Revolution in 1775, the race attracts runners with the majority of the field at noon. Early being a part of the continuum of great ath- April 17 from 4:30–8:30 p.m.. from all over the world who are eager to battle arrivals to the starting line in Hopkinton can letes who have gone before them. With the • The Post-Race Dance Party caps off the big the 26.2 mile course. Due to its history, locale, witness the beginning of the race for the Boston Marathon, it’s more than just a chal- day with a celebration showcasing video high- enthusiastic fans and strict entry qualifications, mobility-impaired (those with handicaps that lenge—it’s history. lights of the race April 18 from 7 p.m.–1 a.m. at the Boston Marathon is universally regarded as affect their ability to walk, but who are not Please note: Copley Station on the MBTA The Roxy, The Matrix and Courtyard by Marriott the gold standard of long distance runs. qualified for the wheelchair division) at 10 Green Line is closed April 18 during the race. Boston Tremont Hotel at 275 Tremont Street.

12 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 13 CURRENTLY p.m., Apr 15 at 1:30 p.m.—Conductor Kurt Masur leads the BSO in a Improv Asylum, 216 Hanover St., 617-263-6887. Showtimes: Wed & program of works by Shostakovich and Bruckner joined by the young Thu at 8 p.m.; Fri at 9 p.m.; Sat at 8 and 10 p.m. Tickets: $15–20, din- Russian violinist Vadim Repin for Shostakovich’s Violin Concerto; Apr ner packages available. Every Fri—The Night Shift features troupes 21, 22 & 26 at 8 p.m.—Renowned conductor Christoph von from around the region as well as original shows by Improv Asylum main Dohnányi leads the orchestra in a program of works by Lutoslawski, stage members and alumni, tickets: $10; Every Sat at midnight —The Schumann and Ravel, including Schumann’s lyrically engaging Cello Midnight Show promises to be quick-witted, controversial and hilarious. Concerto to be performed by the young German cellist Alban Gerhardt. ourism ImprovBoston, Back Alley Theater, 1253 Cambridge St., Cambridge, Emmanuel Music, Emmanuel Church, 15 Newbury St., 617-536- 617-576-1253. Showtimes: Wed at 8 p.m.; Thu & Fri at 8 and 10

ravel & T 3356. Sun at 10 a.m. Admission: free will offering. Conductor Craig p.m.; Sat at 6, 8 and 10 p.m.; Sun at 7 p.m. Cover: $5–12. This com- Smith leads the Orchestra and Chorus of Emmanuel Music in the edy troupe features sketch comedy, games, original music and audi- Weekly Bach Cantata. Special event: Apr 17 at 4 p.m.—A program ence participation. Wed—The Hump; Thu—UnNatural Selection and including Schumann’s 3 Romances and Sonata in A minor features The Great & Secret Comedy Show; Fri—Backstory and violinist Danielle Maddon, soprano Kendra Colton and pianists Leslie TheatreSports; Sat—ImprovBoston Family Show and ImprovBoston Amper and Randall Hodgkinson. Mainstage; Sun—Sgt. Culpepper’s Improvisational Jamboree.

Dresden Staatskapelle, Bank of America Celebrity Series, Jimmy Tingle’s Off Broadway, 255 Elm St., Davis Square,

Kindra Clineff/Mass. Office of T Symphony Hall, 301 Mass. Ave., 617-482-6661. Apr 17 at 8 p.m. Somerville, 617-591-1616. Founded by comic, actor and writer Tickets: $37–77. The renowned Dresden Staatskapelle is one of Jimmy Tingle, this multi-use venue features both established and PATRIOT Games by Christine Celli the season’s most anticipated concerts. Conductor Myung Whun aspiring performers. Apr 11 & 18 at 9 p.m.—College Comedy Night, Chung leads the orchestra in an all-Brahms program with pianist tickets: $8, students $5; Apr 17 & 24 at 7 p.m.—Women in Comedy, s any student of history knows, before The Beatles stormed our shores, a British invasion Emanuel Ax, a favorite of Boston audiences, performing Brahms’ tickets: $10; Apr 21 at 7:30 p.m.—Jimmy Tingle’s Stage Time Awas considered a bad thing. Patriots Day in Boston marks the arrival of Paul Revere, not 2nd piano concerto. Variety Show; Apr 22 at 10 p.m.—It’s Not That Late Show hosted by McCartney, the fabled midnight rider, who alerted the citizens of the Massachusetts colony that Peter Dutton, tickets: $10; Apr 22 & 23 at 7:30 p.m.—An Evening Music at the Gardner, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 280 The with Jimmy Tingle and Tony V, tickets: $20; Apr 24 at 3 p.m.—75 the British were coming—and they were not here to entertain. The Paul Revere Row Event, Fenway, 1-866-468-7619. Tickets: $10–20, children $5. Apr 17 at Laughs: An Evening with Jonathan Katz, tickets: $25. on April 17 at 7 p.m., kicks things off with music and family events at Charlestown Navy Yard 1:30 p.m.— Portraits in Music: Music of David Ludwig; Apr 24 at before this year’s Revere impersonator begins his trek towards Lexington and Concord from 1:30 p.m.—Gardner Chamber Ensemble. Nick’s Comedy Stop, 100 Warrenton St., 617-423-2900. Thu at Old North Church at 10 a.m. the following morning. That’s where the heavy fighting took place 8:30 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 8:45 p.m. Cover: $10–15. Nick’s is the city’s longest-running comedy club. Apr 14–16—Teddy Bergeron; Apr and on April 18 at 5:30 a.m., you can join the masses gathered on Lexington Green and watch COMEDY 21–23—Kevin Knox. the American militias re-enact the battle with the Red Coats. The state holiday is formally com- memorated with a flag-raising ceremony at Boston’s City Hall Plaza at 9 a.m. followed by a The Comedy Connection, Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 617-248-9700. Cover and times may vary. Call for full schedule. CONVENTIONS & EXPOS parade that visits the final resting spots of both Paul Revere and fellow midnight rider William Named “The Best Comedy Club in the Country” (USA Today), this Dawes. Refer to listings, page 21. venue has featured national and local stand-up acts such as Wendy Bayside Expo & Conference Center, 200 Mount Vernon St., 617- Liebman, Chris Rock, Rosie O’Donnell and Dave Chappelle. Apr 11 & 474-6000. Tue at 11 a.m., Wed–Fri at 7 p.m., Sat & Sun at 4:30 18 at 8 p.m.—Amateur Showcase hosted by Kevin Knox, tickets: p.m.—Big Apple Circus, tickets: $13–53; Apr 12 & 13—Boston Classical Music 14 CLASSICAL $12; Apr 12 at 8 p.m.—Paul Nardizzi, tickets: $12; Apr 14 & 21 at National College Fair. I 8:30 p.m.—Frank Santos “The R-Rated Hypnotist,” tickets: $15; Apr Comedy 15 Boston Conservatory of Music, 8 The Fenway, 617-912-9222. 15 at 8 and 10:15 p.m., Apr 16 at 10:30 p.m., Apr 17 at 7 p.m.— Boston Convention & Exhibition Center, 415 Summer St., 617- Apr 12 at 8 p.m. Free admission. Call for reservations. Piano Masters: Jeff Dunham, tickets: $27; Apr 19 at 8 p.m.—Paul Nardizzi with 954-2400. Through Apr 12—New England Foodservice & Lodging Conventions & Expos 15 Composer Michael Sheppard, a protege of Leon Fleisher, performs a Robbie Printz, tickets: $12; Apr 20 at 8 p.m.—DJ Hazard, tickets: Expo and Conference. Call for registration info. Dance 15 program that includes Corigliano’s Etude-Fantasy, Earl Wild’s Grand $12; Apr 22 at 8 and 10:15 p.m., Apr 23 at 6, 8:15 and 10:30 p.m., N Fantasy on Porgy and Bess and one of his own compositions. Apr 24 at 7 p.m.—John Heffron, tickets: $22.50. Hynes Convention Center, 900 Boylston St., 617-954-2000. Film 16 Through Apr 12—2005 American Association of Community Galleries 17 A Boston Marquee Event: Sergey Schepkin, Bank of America The Comedy Studio at the Hong Kong, 1236 Mass. Ave., Harvard Colleges Convention; Apr 16 & 17—Sports and Fitness Expo; Apr 23 Celebrity Series, New England Conservatory’s Jordan Hall, 30 Square, Cambridge, 617-661-6507. Doors open at 7:30 p.m.; nightly & 24—Jump & Dance competition. Kids Corner 18 Gainsborough St., 617-482-6661. Apr 16 at 8 p.m. Tickets: shows begin at 8 p.m. Call for complete schedule. Cover: $7–10.A D Live Music 18 $25–35. A former student of Grigory Sokolov at the St. Petersburg place where fresh talent is discovered and headliners experiment. Conservatory and Russell Sherman at the New England Conservatory, Apr 12 & 19—The Magic Lounge; Apr 13 & 20—Tony V DANCE Nightclubs 20 Schepkin brings an extraordinary combination of intellectual certainty Experiment; Apr 14 & 21—Dan Sally Show; Apr 17 & 24—Erin Opera 20 and interpretive elasticity to his playing. The performance features Judge Presents…; Apr 22 & 23—Ira Proctor and guests. Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater, The Wang Theatre, 270 works by Debussy and Mussorgsky. Tremont St., 1-800-447-7400. Performances Apr 19–24: Tue at 7:30 E Special Events 20 Dick Doherty’s Comedy Vault, Remington’s Restaurant, 124 p.m., Wed–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 and 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: Sports 21 Boston Symphony Orchestra, Symphony Hall, 301 Mass. Ave., 617- Boylston St., 617-482-0110, call for reservations and complete $32–67. The highly acclaimed Ailey dancers brilliantly interpret a 266-1200. Tickets: $27–95. Renowned throughout the world for its schedule. Showtimes: Thu–Sat at 9 p.m.; open mic Sun at 9 p.m. wide range of dance genres. From the spirituality of Revelations, Alvin Theater 22 distinctive sound, impressive range and virtuosity, the Boston Cover: $10–25. Located in an actual bank vault downstairs in Ailey’s 1960 masterpiece, to the electrifying visions of today’s most Symphony Orchestra, led by new music director James Levine, cele- Remington’s Eating and Drinking Exchange, this club features exciting choreographers, the Alvin Ailey dancers rise to the chal- Tickets 23 brates its 124th year in a season that brings fresh perspectives to a Boston’s top comics. Apr 13—Greg Howell and Friends; Apr 14 & lenges of the most demanding works in the modern dance reper- X Transportation 23 well-known repertoire while offering insights into the future of classical 15—Artie Januario and Boston’s Best Standup; Apr 17—Joe List toire. “No troupe in this country is dancing better than the Alvin Ailey music. Apr 13 at 7:30 p.m. (open rehearsal), Apr 14, 16 & 19 at 7:30 hosts Open Mike Night. American Dance Theater,” says The New Yorker.

14 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 15

CURRENTLY Mugar Omni Theater, Museum of Science, 617-723-2500 or 617- DANCE Fever 333-FILM. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $7.50; by Christopher Wallenberg seniors $5.50; children (3–11) $6.50. Discounted admission for show- times after 6 p.m. This IMAX theater presents larger-than-life images very year Boston audiences look forward on a five-story high, domed screen. Now showing: Roar: Lions of the Eto a visit from the renowned Alvin Ailey Kalahari; Amazing Journeys; Forces of Nature; Mysteries of Egypt. American Dance Theater. Starting with a small Simons IMAX Theater, New England Aquarium, Central Wharf, group of African-American dancers in the late 1-866-815-4629. Open Sun–Thu 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; Fri & Sat 10 1950s, Ailey turned his troupe into an American a.m.–9:45 p.m. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: institution and a pillar of the modern dance world. $8.95; seniors & children (3–11) $6.95. This recent addition to the New England Aquarium is the first large-format theater in Boston to Now led by Ailey protege Judith Jamison, the have 3D viewing capability. Now showing: Aliens of the Deep; Sharks company boasts some of the world’s best-trained 3D; Galapagos. modern dancers and is known for its raw energy, Somerville Theatre, 55 Davis Square, Somerville, 617-625-4088. emotional performances and cutting-edge Special event: Apr 22–24—Independent Film Festival of Boston, see choreography, all danced to the music of black listing on previous page. America. For its 34th Boston engagement, at the April 19–24 Wang Theatre , the company presents GALLERIES the Hub premieres of Jamison’s Love Stories, set to the soulful pop sounds of the legendary Stevie Barbara Krakow Gallery, 10 Newbury St., 617-262-4490. Wonder; David Parson’s Shining Star, danced to Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. The Barbara Krakow Gallery attracts top contemporary artists from around the world, showcasing work that the R & B fusion of Earth, Wind and Fire; and focuses on minimalism and conceptualism. Special exhibits: Born to Donald Byrd’s Burlesque, performed to the jazz Shop by Jonathan Seliger; Long Playing: Record Covers by Artists. noodlings of Louie Armstrong. The programs also include Ailey classics like Cry and his soul-stirring Bromfield Art Gallery, 27 Thayer St., 617-451-305. Wed–Sat noon–5 p.m. Boston’s oldest artist-run gallery features shows by

masterpiece, Revelations. Refer to listing, page 15. members of the cooperative, while exhibitions by visiting artists are Stage Spotlight

Paul Kolnik selected by current members. Special exhibits: Reconstruction by Kathy Halamka; Stage Flight: New Paintings by Arthur Hardigg. WHEELOCK FILM ings, parties and panels: $150; Theater Pass, for all screenings at a FAMILY particular theater: $80, seniors and students $50–60; individual tick- Childs Gallery, 169 Newbury St., 617-266-1108. Tue–Fri 9 a.m.– The Brattle Theatre, 40 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-876-6837. Call ets: $8–20. The third annual festival boasts 58 films—including doc- 6 p.m.; Mon & Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m. The longest-running of the commer- THEATRE for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $9; students & matinees umentaries, features and shorts from around the world, across the cial Newbury Street galleries, Childs has one of the largest inventories BOSTON’S PREMIER FAMILY THEATRE $7.50; seniors & children $6. Classic, cutting-edge and world cinema country and New England. Screenings take place at the Coolidge, of oil paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and sculpture in the United SINCE 1981 with a different double feature almost every day. Now showing: through Brattle and Somerville theaters as well as at the Museum of Fine States. Special exhibits: Werner Drewes, 1899–1985; Gertrude Beals The Beanstalk, Apr 14—Wong Kar-Wai: A Retrospective, tickets: $34; Apr 15–18 Arts. Panels are held at the Institute of Contemporary Art, and nightly Bourne; Artists in Brahmin Boston; Alexander Brook: Selected Drawings. —Memories of Murder; Apr 21—A Night at the Opera. Special event: parties take place throughout Boston, Cambridge and Somerville. the Giant, and JACK TO ADVER Apr 22–24—Independent Film Festival of Boston, see listing below. Special events: Apr 22 at 7 p.m. at Somerville Theater—Opening Gallery NAGA, 67 Newbury St., 617-267-9060. Tue–Sat 10 APRIL 8–MAY 8, 2005 night screening of Lonesome Jim, starring Casey Affleck, Liv Tyler, a.m.–5:30 p.m. Gallery NAGA specializes in studio furniture and paint- FRI. AT 7:30, SAT. & SUN. AT 3 P.M. Coolidge Corner Theatre, 290 Harvard Ave., Brookline, 617-734- Mary-Kay Place and Kevin Corrigan and directed by Steve Buscemi, ings by New England artists, and also exhibits works by contemporary SCHOOL VACATION WEEK MATINEES APRIL 19–22 AT 1 P.M. 2500. Call for showtimes and complete schedule. Tickets: $8.50; who holds a post-screening Q&A; Apr 24 at 7 p.m. at the MFA—A photographers, printmakers and sculptors. Special exhibits: through 617-879-2300 • www.wheelock.edu/wft TISE, CALL TYLER MONTGOMER members $5.50; seniors & children $5.50. This independent movie Conversation with Melvin Van Peebles. Apr 23—Sam Earle: Scrap Paintings; Masako Kamiya: New Paintings. near the Fenway T house screens recent indie films, as well as the classics. Now show- ing: Millions; Watermarks; Academy Award Nominated Shorts: Live Loews Boston Common, corner of Tremont and Avery streets, Howard Yezerski Gallery, 14 Newbury St., 3rd Floor, 617-262- BOSTON CHILDREN’S THEATRE Action and Animation. Special event: Apr 22–24—Independent Film 617-423-3499 or 617-333-FILM. Call for showtimes, complete 0550. Tue–Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Features contemporary art, including Festival of Boston, see listing below. schedule and ticket prices. This state-of-the-art cineplex is the largest photography, sculpture and prints. Special exhibits: through Apr 19— Anne of downtown movie theater in New England, featuring 4,500 stadium Lalla A. Essaydi: Converging Territories and Brian Zink: Wall Hangings. Green Harvard Film Archive, Carpenter Center for the Visual Arts, 24 seats and 19 oversized screens spanning 100,000 square feet. Quincy St., Cambridge 617-495-4700. Call for showtimes, complete International Poster Gallery, 205 Newbury St., 617-375-0076. Gables schedule and ticket prices. With over 300 films shown per year, HFA Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. www.internationalposter.com. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon– THE MUSICAL is one of the most active art cinemas in New England. Now showing: Screenings Thu–Sun, call for showtimes and complete schedule. 6 p.m. This internationally recognized fine art poster gallery displays Apr 12 at 9 p.m.—Federico Fellini’s Intervista; Apr 18 at 7 p.m.— Tickets: $9; students & seniors $8. The Museum of Fine Arts’ Film original vintage posters from the 1890s through the post-World War II APRIL 9–10, 16–17, 20–23, 2005 Y A Untold Scandal with appearance by director Je-Yong Lee; Apr 19 at Program has grown to become one of the nation’s finest exhibitors of modern masters. 9 p.m.—Josef Morder France’s Memoirs of a Tropical Jew. contemporary international cinema, restored classics and premieres McCormack Theatre at UMass Boston T 617-423-3400 of American independent films. Now showing: Apr 15 at 8:15 L’Attitude Gallery, 218 Newbury St., 617-927-4400. Tue–Sat 10 Tickets at www.theatermania.com or call number below Independant Film Festival of Boston. Apr 21–24 at Coolidge p.m.—Charlie Chaplin in Tillie’s Punctured Romance; Apr 16 at 7 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun & Mon noon–5 p.m. Features contemporary sculp- for reservations and information about Spring classes Corner, Brattle and Somerville theaters and the Museum of Fine Arts. p.m.—Friends of Film Sneak Preview: David Duchovny’s House of D. ture, crafts and art for the home, garden and commercial environ- and summer opportunities for children and teens. Call theaters for showtimes and complete schedule or visit www.iff- Special event: Apr 22–24—Independent Film Festival of Boston, see ments. The gallery also boasts an outdoor sculpture garden. Over 75 617-424-6634 • www.bostonchildrenstheatre.org boston.org. Tickets: Chrome Pass, includes admission to all screen- listing above. U.S. and international artists are represented in various mediums,

16 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 17 CURRENTLY including glass, ceramics, wood, stone, mixed media and textiles. The Children’s Museum, Museum Wharf, 300 Congress St., 617- The Middle East, 472 Mass. Ave., Cambridge, 617-864-EAST. featuring Andrew Barr and Timo Shanko, tickets: $10–12; Apr 22 at Special exhibit: Paper and Paint: New Works by Corinne Okada and 426-8855. Refer to listing in Museums. Daily organized activities in Doors open at 8 p.m., show starts at 9 p.m. unless otherwise noted. 9 p.m.—Seeking Homer with Andy Happell, tickets: $10; Apr 23 at 9 Lana Gordon. the Art Studio, Play Space and KidStage such as music and move- Call for complete schedule. Cover: $8–20. Whether Upstairs, p.m.—Ed Harcourt with guests, tickets: $10; Apr 24 at 8 p.m.— ment, finger puppet making and kitchen science. Special events: Apr Downstairs or in the Corner, this entertainment club showcases the Appomattox with Blanks, tickets: $5–8. Nielsen Gallery, 179 Newbury St., 617-266-4835. Tue–Sat 10 15 & 22 from 3–5 p.m., Apr 16 & 17 and 23 & 24 from 2–4 p.m.— best alternative and indie rock bands in town. Apr 12 (upstairs)— a.m.– 5:30 p.m. Renowned for its fine collection of contemporary Zoom Zone; Apr 18–24 from 10 a.m.–5 p.m.—Cultural Celebrations: Devotchka, tickets: $12–15; Apr 14—Clickers with Night Rally, Regattabar, third floor of The Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett St., Cambridge, paintings, drawings and sculptures. Special exhibits: John Lees: Carnival, carnival traditions from Boston and around the world. Carlisle Sound and Reports, tickets: $8; Apr 15 at 8 p.m.—Boston 617-661-5099. Call for complete schedule and ticket information. Apr Johann’s Castle; Damien DiBona: Between Wonder and Structure; Russian Rock Club presents Markscheider Kunst, tickets: $15–20; 12 at 7:30 p.m.—Leo Blanco’s Boston Latin Ensemble, tickets: $10; opening Apr 23—Sachiko Akiyama: Between Dream and Memory. Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. Refer to Apr 19—Asva with Hirudinea, tickets: $12; Apr 20—Low Red Land Apr 15 & 16 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.—Donal Fox Trio: Monk and Bach, listing in Museums. The fine arts are not just for adults. Special activ- with Hooker Street Band, tickets: $8; Apr 21 (upstairs)—Melt tickets: $20; Apr 17 & 24 at 12:30 p.m.—The World Famous Harlem Pepper Gallery, 38 Newbury St., 617-236-4495. Tue–Fri 10 ities: Mon–Fri at 3:30 p.m.—Children’s Room, free gallery and work- Banana with Fat Day and An Albatross, tickets: $10–12; Apr 24 at Gospel Choir, tickets: $15; Apr 19 at 7:30 p.m.—Ombini Tumbao, a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sat 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Committed to presenting con- shop program for children ages 6 to 12, offering active exploration of 7:30 p.m. (upstairs)—Karyshma, tickets: $10. tickets: $10; Apr 20 at 7:30 p.m.—Tord Gustavsen Trio, tickets: $12; temporary representational and abstract work by living artists, the the MFA’s collection through art projects, drama, poetry and music; Tue Apr 21–23 at 7:30 and 10 p.m.—Dave Holland Big Band, tickets: $25. gallery rotates its exhibitions every five weeks to represent different & Wed at 3:30 p.m.—Books Bring Art Alive explores the MFA collec- Orpheum Theatre, 1 Hamilton Place, 617-931-2000. The Orpheum members of the artistic community, both established and upcoming. tions using picture books, gallery activities and adult/child art projects. opened in 1852 and was the sight of the first Boston Symphony Scullers Jazz Club, DoubleTree Guest Suites Hotel, 400 Soldiers Field Special exhibit: Recollections: Assemblages and Collages: Suzi Orchestra performances and lectures by Booker T. Washington and Road, 617-562-4111. Showtimes: Tue–Thu at 8 and 10 p.m.; Fri & Cohens, Marcus Kennedy and Randa Newland. Puppet Showplace Theatre, 32 Station St., Brookline, 617-731- Ralph Waldo Emerson. Apr 12 at 7:30 p.m.—Tori Amos, tickets: Sat at 8 and 10:30 p.m.; Sun at 7 and 9 p.m. unless otherwise noted. 6400. The first puppetry center in New England presents the magical $34.50–45; Apr 14 at 7:30 p.m.—Alison Krauss and Union Station, Tickets: $15–65. Combination tickets include dinner and show. Apr Photographic Resource Center, Boston University, 832 Common- world of puppet theater to a broad community, enlightening audi- tickets: $35–47.50; Apr 15 & 16 at 7:30 p.m., Apr 17 at 7 p.m.— 12—Michael Ricca: Take Me to a World, tickets: $16, $54 with din- wealth Ave., 617-353-0700. Tue, Wed, Fri from 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ences of all ages. Tickets: $8.50. Apr 13 & 14 at 10:30 a.m.—The Bob Dylan, tickets: $48.50–68.50; Apr 22 at 7:30 p.m.—Kelly ner; Apr 14 & 15—Charles Lloyd, tickets: $25, $63 with dinner; Apr from 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Sat & Sun from noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3. Singing Turtle; Apr 16 & 17 at 1 and 3 p.m.—Arabian Adventure; Clarkson, tickets: $39.50; Apr 23 at 8 p.m.—Bob Weir and Rat Dog, 16—Karrin Allyson, tickets: $20, $58 with dinner; Apr 20—John Stein PRC exhibitions and educational programs are guided by a philo- Apr 18–20 at 1 and 3 p.m.—The Magic of Hans Christian Anderson; tickets: $25–35; Apr 24 at 7:30 p.m.—Lenny Kravitz, tickets: Quartet featuring David “Fathead” Newman, tickets: $18, $56 with sophical inquiry into the intersection of photography with other aes- Apr 21 & 22 at 1 and 3 p.m.—The Legend of the Banana Kid; Apr $41.50–49.50. dinner; Apr 22 & 23—David Sanchez, tickets: $22, $60 with dinner. thetic, professional and critical discourses. Special exhibits: Northeast 23 & 24 at 1 and 3 p.m.—Raccoon Tales. Exposure Online presents Rania Matar; LAND/MARK: Locative Media Paradise Rock Club, 967 Commonwealth Ave., 617-562-8800. Call Somerville Theatre, 55 Davis Square, Somerville, 617-625-4088. and Photography. for complete schedule. Intimate setting with a big sound, Paradise is Apr 14 at 8 p.m.—Victor Wooten, tickets: $29.50; Apr 15 at 8 LIVE MUSIC one of Boston’s favorite rock clubs. All shows 18+ unless otherwise p.m.—Malouma, tickets: $24.50; Apr 16 at 8 p.m.—Phil Pucker Gallery, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. Mon–Sat 10 noted. Apr 12 at 7 p.m.—Bloom with Aderbat, tickets: $8; Apr 15 at Cunningham and Aly Bain, tickets: $24.50; Apr 22 at 8 p.m.— a.m.– 5:30 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Featuring works by Israeli, American Avalon, 15 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2424. This popular nightclub 9 p.m.—Mark Friedman (the Slip) and Marco Benevento (the Duo) Altan, tickets: $24.50–34.50. and internationally known contemporary artists. Named by the hosts rock and pop music acts prior to evening dance nights with Boston Phoenix as one of the best art galleries in the city: “You can DJs. Apr 16 at 7 p.m.—Moby with Buck 65, tickets: $22.50; Apr 17 make a case for the Pucker Gallery as Boston’s best gallery—though at 7 p.m.—Garbage with the Dead 60s, tickets: $30; Apr 24 at 6 it’s really more like a wonderful miniature museum.” Special exhibit: p.m.—Fall Out Boy with Silverstein, The Academy Is and Gym Class opening Apr 16—Ali (Alison Cann Clift) and Marco Abarca. Heroes, tickets: $15.25.

Robert Klein Gallery, 38 Newbury St., 617-267-7997. Tue–Fri 10 Axis, 13 Landsdowne St., 617-262-2437. This popular nightclub a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sat 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Devoted to fine art photography hosts rock and pop musical acts prior to evening dance nights with from the 19th century through the present day, the gallery has fea- DJs. Apr 12 at 8 p.m.—And You Will Know Us By the Trail of Dead, tured works by such well-known artists as Ansel Adams and Diane tickets: $15; Apr 14 at 7 p.m.—Sparta, tickets $12; Apr 15 at 7 Arbus. Special exhibit: Olivia Parker. p.m.—Ash, The Bravery, tickets: $14; Apr 20 at 8 p.m.—Saul Williams, tickets: $15; Apr 21 at 6:30 p.m.—Battle for Ozzfest Society of Arts and Crafts, 175 Newbury St., 617-266-1810. featuring Cyn, Manntis and A Dozen Furies, tickets: $14; Apr 23 at Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. The oldest non-profit 6:30 p.m.—Tiger Army, tickets: $12. crafts organization in the country (more than 100 years old) special- izes in contemporary American crafts. The jewelry, furniture, glass Bob the Chef’s Restaurant and Jazz Cafe, 604 Columbus Ave., and ceramics range from cutting edge to traditional and from func- 617-536-6204. Cover varies. Call for complete performance sched- tional to sculptural. Special exhibit: Susie Ganch: Necklace. ule. Casual dining and live entertainment. Enjoy soul and jazz from local performers Thu–Sat at 7 or 7:30 p.m. Kick back with a leisurely Vose Galleries, 238 Newbury St., 617-536-6176. Mon–Fri 8:30 a.m.– jazz brunch Sun 10 a.m.–2:30 p.m. 5:30 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Established in 1841, Vose Galleries— the oldest family-owned art gallery in the United States—specializes Club Passim, 47 Palmer St., Cambridge, 617-492-7679. Call for full in American artists from the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries. schedule. Tickets: $12–14. This intimate coffeehouse in Harvard Square was a starting place for legendary folk icons such as Joan Baez and Bob Dylan. Apr 12 & 13 at 8 p.m.—Janis Ian, tickets: $35; KIDS CORNER Apr 14 at 8 p.m.—Chris Smither and Tim O’Brien, tickets: $35; Apr 16 at 7 and 10 p.m.—The Resophonics CD Release, tickets: $14; Boston Public Library, 700 Boylston St., Copley Square, 617- Apr 23 at 8 p.m.—John Renbourn and Jacqui McShee, tickets: $25. 536-5400. Refer to listing in Sightseeing section. The first publicly supported municipal library in the world hosts many activities and Dick’s Last Resort, 55 Huntington Ave., 617-267-8080, www.dick- special programs for children, including live performances, story- slastresort.com. No cover. Call for complete performance schedule. telling, interactive computer activities and films. Special events: Apr Live music daily from classic rock acts and cover bands, 74 kinds of 15 at 10 a.m.—Reading Readiness; Apr 22 at 10:30 p.m.—Music beer and dining options that include buckets of ribs, shrimp, lobster, Fun with Wayne Potash; Apr 24 at 2 p.m.—Introduction to Karate. crab cakes, chicken and crab legs.

18 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 19 CURRENTLY Now there are two locations T.T. the Bear’s Place, 10 Brookline St., Cambridge, 617-492-BEAR. high-tech games, blackjack for fun, six full bars, Lucky Strike Lanes Fifth Annual Paul Revere Row Event, Charlestown Navy Yard, where you can enjoy all of the Shows start at 8:30 p.m. Call for complete schedule. Cover: $8–14. on the third floor and full-service dining and late-night dancing at 617-242-5601. Apr 17 from 7–10 p.m. Paul Revere’s famous Apr 13—Pocketsauce with Sarah Pedinotti, Eureka Gold and The Tequila Rain on the first floor. Proper dress required. “Midnight Ride” began with a row across the Charles River, which is fun seen on the TV series Rice Cookers; Apr 16—The Bravery CD Release and Dance Party; recreated for the fifth time in conjunction with the annual lighting Apr 17—The Sterns with Joke Mountain and Superiority Complex; The Modern, 36 Lansdowne St., 617-536-2100. Tue, Thu, Fri & Sat ceremony at Old North Church. The family-friendly activities begin Apr 22—Clandestino Rock in Spanish Dance Party; Apr 23—Baby 10:30 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover varies. Located behind Fenway Park, this chic with costumed reenactors and musical performances at the Boy H with Bury the Needle and Fitless. lounge offers a laid-back alternative to the dance clubs that fill most Charlestown Navy Yard Visitor Center on Constitution Road. At 8 p.m., of the street. DJs perform nightly, specializing in international music. a procession to the actual site of Revere’s landing features a special Wally’s Cafe, 427 Massachusetts Ave., 617-424-1408. Mon–Sat program with historians, scholars and costumed re-enactors who from 9 a.m.–2 a.m.; Sun from noon–2 a.m. Bands play at 9 p.m. No The Rack, 24 Clinton St., 617-725-1051. Open daily, 11:30 a.m.– bring Revere to life, talk about his historic ride and recite the famous cover. Wally’s was established in 1947 by Joseph L. Walcot, the first 2 a.m. No cover. This upscale billiards club, restaurant and bar is Revere poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. African-American to own a nightclub in Boston. It played a large part known for attracting celebrities, as well as Boston’s young profes- in the growth of jazz music in this country and continues to host live sional crowd. Live music every night except Saturday; DJs nightly Patriots Day in Boston, City Hall Plaza. Apr 18 at 9 a.m. Meet at jazz daily. from 10 p.m.–2 a.m. City Hall for the traditional 9 a.m. flag rising ceremony, then follow the parade to Hanover Street in the North End for a re-enactment of The Roxy, 279 Tremont St., 617-338-7699. Thu–Sat 10 p.m.–2 the famous 1775 midnight ride of Paul Revere and William Dawes. NIGHTCLUBS a.m. Cover: $10–15. Thu—“The Latin Quarter”; Fri—R&B, hip-hop Dawes’ ride re-enactment occurs at Eliot Square in Roxbury and and reggae; Sat—High-energy house, techno and dance music. Revere’s ride takes place at the Old North Church on Hanover Street. “The Original” “The Replica” Aria, 246 Tremont St., 617-338-7080. Tue–Sun 11 p.m.–2 a.m. Refer to story, page 14. 84 Beacon Street Faneuil Hall Marketplace Cover: $5–15. Call for age restrictions. Located in the basement of Sophia’s, 1270 Boylston St., 617-351-7001. Cover varies. A roman- Beacon Hill Downtown the Wilbur Theatre, this nightspot features a chic decor with plush tic, upbeat favorite of those who like to salsa. Whether it’s on the out- Patriots Day events in Lexington and Concord, various sites in (617) 227-9605 (617) 227-0150 red couches and dance music—from International to House. Dress door upper deck or in the exposed-brick interior, guests keep movin’ Lexington and Concord, call 978-369-3102 or 781-862-2480 or visit Offering Visitors of Boston: to impress. to Latin beats and live music. Wed–Sat—salsa lessons; Wed— www.battleroad.org for complete event information. Apr 9–23. From • Award-Winning Burgers & Bloody Marys “SalsaBoston.com”; Fri—“Sangria and Salsa”; Sat—DJ Edwin Matos. Battle Road at Merriams Corner in Concord to the fighting at Battle • A Selection of Draught Beers on Tap Avalon, 15 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2424. Thu–Sun 10 p.m.–2 Green in Lexington, countless performers re-enact the battles of • Great Casual Atmosphere a.m. Cover: $10–20. 19+ on Thu & Fri; 21+ on Sat & Sun. One of Venu, 100 Warrenton St., 617-338-8061. Thu–Sun 11 p.m.–2 a.m. Lexington and Concord that occured in April of 1775, eventually leading Boston’s premier nightclubs featuring Euro and Top 40 dance nights. Cover varies. You’ll find a highly fashionable Euro crowd at this to our country’s independence. Apr 16 from 7:30 p.m.–midnight— Pub • Restaurant • Gift Shop It’s also the city’s largest club venue for live music acts. Thu—Hip- Theater District club. DJs nightly. Patriots Day Ball, National Guard Armory, Everett St., Concord. The www.cheersboston.com hop night; Fri—renowned DJs from around the world at “Avaland”; annual ball features live music from the Colours and special colonial TM & © 2005 Paramount Pictures Corporation. All rights reserved. Sat—Tease with DJ Adilson; Sun—Gay Night. Whiskey Park, Boston Park Plaza Hotel, 64 Arlington St., 617-542- fife and drum selections. The evening concludes with a walk to 1482. Rande Gerber, husband to Cindy Crawford, opened the latest Concord Center to see Samuel Prescott ride again, call 978-371-0292 Axis, 13 Lansdowne St., 617-262-2437. Mon & Thu–Sun 10 p.m.–2 installment of his Whiskey franchise, a posh addition to the Boston for ticket information; Apr 18 at 5:30 a.m.—Re-enactment of the a.m. Cover: $5–20, 19+. Mon—“Static,” gay night; Thu—“Spend” (no night scene. The 3,500 square-foot space contains two separate Battle of Lexington Green, Lexington Battle Green, Route 2 and Mass. cover); Fri—“Avaland,” hip-hop; Sat—“Lushlife,” alternative party hits. bars—one more intimate, and the other a lively lounge. Ave., Lexington. British and American Revolutionary War re-enactors depict the skirmish that took place early on the morning of April 19, 617 426 2722 The Alley, One Boylston Place, 617-351-7000. Thu–Sat 10 p.m.–2 1775. Parades and other ceremonies follow. Refer to story, page 14. • • a.m. Cover: $5–10. Located in the famous Boylston Street alleyway, OPERA this one-stop nightspot includes the Big Easy Bar, Sugar Shack and 20th Annual Street Performers Auditions, Faneuil Hall casual harborside ab Sweetwater Cafe. Party Mardi Gras-style on Boston’s version of Eugene Onegin, Boston Lyric Opera, The Shubert Theatre, 265 Marketplace, Merchants Row and Faneuil Hall Square, 617-523- dining in the heart Bourbon Street. Tremont St., 1-800-447-7400. Apr 12 at 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $34–159. 1300. Apr 23 & 24 from 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Free and open to the public. In Tchaikovsky’s timeless tale, Tatiana, pensive and shy, loses her heart Ever wonder how the street performers at Faneuil Hall Marketplace of boston Boston Billiard Club, 126 Brookline Ave., 617-536-POOL. Ranked to the sophisticated Onegin. He rebuffs her: she’s too innocent. But get chosen? Watch the public audition process where each act per- Number One Billiard Club in the country by Billiards Digest, this years later, Onegin meets Tatiana again. This time, she’s everything forms for 15-minutes and is judged on a variety of factors, including open daily for nightspot is perfect for pool aficionados and novices alike. Mon—free he yearns for: poised, womanly—and married. Who’s crying now? audience appreciation and involvement. Performers come from all lunch and dinner lessons; Wed—Ladies’ Night: each lady gets 25 percent off table over the world. Past participants have included Macedonian pup- time. Four ladies per table play for free; Sun–Thu—League Night. peteers, South American music groups and Hungarian musicians. live music! SPECIAL EVENTS Chosen performers showcase their talent at the Annual Street sun & wed 5–9 pm Boston Rocks Nightclub, 245 Quincy Market (near Faneuil Hall), Performers Festival on Memorial Day weekend. 617-726-1110. Thu–Sat 9 p.m.–2 a.m. Cover varies. 21+. Where Big Apple Circus: Picturesque, Bayside Expo and Executive reservations accepted Boston comes to rock. Fri—6one7 presents The Loft with R & B and Conference Center, 200 Mount Vernon St., Columbia Point, 617-931- for parties of 6 or more hip-hop music; Sat—Shotgun Saturdays with VJ Johnnie Walker 2787. Performances: Wed–Fri at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m., Sat & Sun at SPORTS ant Black spinning Top 40. No hats allowed. 12:30 and 4:30 p.m. Tickets: $13–53. The 27th season under the big top borrows from the world’s greatest artists, including Renoir, The Boston Celtics National Basketball Association Club Cafe, 209 Columbus Ave., 617-536-0966. Thu–Sat 9 p.m.– Degas, Chagall, Toulouse-Lautrec, Calder and Picasso, and their TD Banknorth Garden, Causeway St., 617-523-3030 or 617-931-2000. E 2 a.m. No cover. In the back of the 209 restaurant, you’ll find the depictions of the circus. This one-ring circus brings its art to life with Apr 15 at 7:30 p.m. vs. Miami Heat 88 sleeper street

Moonshine and Satellite lounges, voted “Best of Boston” by acrobats and jugglers, birds and horses, flying men and women and Apr 20 at 7 p.m. vs. New Jersey Nets aur Boston magazine and The Improper Bostonian for best gay and clowns in a show you won’t soon forget. Refer to story, page 22. Refer to story, page 8. lesbian nightspot. H John Hancock Sports and Fitness Expo, Hynes Convention Center, 109th Boston Marathon, Hopkinton to Copley Square. on ft. point channel Jillian’s Boston, 145 Ipswich St. (behind Fenway Park), 617-437- 900 Boylston St., 617-954-2000. Apr 16 & 17 from 9 a.m.–6 p.m. This www.bostonmarathon.com. Apr 18 throughout the day; start time 0300. www.jilliansboston.com. Open daily 11 a.m.–2 a.m. One of free annual event is held in conjunction with the world famous Boston noon; wheelchair division begins at 11:45 a.m. From the grueling

Boston’s largest entertainment complexes, this fun and diverse club Marathon. The Expo features over 100 sports equipment exhibitors climb of Heartbreak Hill to the final stretch through Kenmore Square, T rest attracts over a million people a year. Features 50 pool tables, 200 and attracts more than 50,000 consumers over a two-day period. the Boston Marathon is known worldwide as one of the most presti- barking cr

20 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 21

CURRENTLY p.m., Fri & Sat at 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $24–28. The land- Acclaimed by critics in both New York and Los Angeles, this crisply Under the BIG TOP mark Stephen Sondheim musical—considered to have begun the satiric but ultimately sympathetic new play offers an hilarious, heart- by Scott Roberto modern era of musical theatre—is an energetic, honest and witty wrenching vision of the American dream. look at the relationships between an ensemble of quirky and memo- espite the bitter Red Sox-Yankees rivalry, rable characters punctuated by such songs as “Side By Side By Menopause the Musical, Stuart Street Playhouse, Radisson Hotel, Dthere is at least one New York institution that Side,” “You Could Drive A Person Crazy” and “Being Alive.” 200 Stuart St., 1-800-447-7400. Performances: Wed–Fri at 8 p.m., is always welcome in the land of the bean and the Sat at 4 and 8 p.m., Sun at 2 and 5 p.m. Tickets: $42.50. This hilari- Constant Star, Merrimack Repertory Theatre, 50 East Merrimack ous celebration of women and “the change” starts with four ladies at cod. Big Apple Circus has been an annual visi- St., Lowell, 978-454-3926. Performances through Apr 24: Wed–Fri a Bloomingdale’s lingerie sale who bond over their menopausal ail- tor to Boston since the mid-1980s, and the 27th at 8 p.m., Sat at 4:30 and 8:30 p.m., Sun at 2 and 7 p.m. Tickets: ments—memory loss, brain skips, hot flashes, night sweats, not production of this one-ring wonder sets up its tent $40. Civil rights leader, journalist, suffragette and mother Ida B. Wells enough sex, too much sex and more. The joyful musical parodies 28 steps out of the past and into the spotlight in this tough, funny and classic Baby Boomer songs. at the Bayside Expo Center through May 8. uplifting portrait of a powerful and passionate woman. Playwright Entitled Picturesque, the latest Big Apple show Tazewell Thompson splices masterful prose with 20 classic spirituals Olly’s Prison, American Repertory Theatre, Zero Arrow Theatre, Zero has an art-related theme, drawing on such icons sung a cappella in five-part harmony. Arrow St., Cambridge, 617-547-8300. Performances through Apr 24: Tue–Thu at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 and 8 p.m., Sun at 2 as Degas, Chagall and Toulouse-Lautrec for Culture Clash in AmeriCCa, Wimberly Theatre, Calderwood and 7:30 p.m. Tickets $35–45. In an ordinary London flat, a desper- inspiration and bringing their vibrant work to life Pavilion at the Boston Center for the Arts, 527 Tremont St., 617-266- ate man is driven to commit an unspeakable act. Can he ever be free through colorful sets and costumes. As always, 0800. Performances: Tue–Sat at 7:30 p.m.; Wed, Sat & Sun at 2 from the retribution of society, or will the legacy of the deed haunt an international array of talent is on display, from p.m.; Sun at 7 p.m. Tickets: $14–50. This high-octane fusion of him for all his life? Edward Bond, one of Britain’s most lauded and satire, schtick and sociology uses humor and spoken word to create controversial playwrights, crafts a magnificent play, originally written jugglers and clowns to trapeze artists and animal a non-traditional evening of theatre that explores this country’s for television, that is a scorching investigation into the forces of acts. Highlights include: the flamboyant flourishes diverse peoples and histories. The troupe consists of three Latino repression and the quest for freedom that binds our lives. members (Richard Montoya, Ric Salinas and Herbert Siguenza) who

cus of renowned Russian bird, dog and cat trainer have been performing together for 20 years. Each artist plays multi- The Phantom of the Opera, The Opera House, 539 Washington St., Svetlana Shamsheeva (pictured left); the lyrical ple characters, crossing all racial, social and sexual boundaries. 617-931-2787. Performances: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 and 8 balancing act of Swiss-born acrobat Mei Ling; p.m., Sun at 2 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets $23–83. With some of the most and the antics of Hall of Fame clown Grandma Den of Thieves, Company One, Plaza Theatres, Boston Center for lavish sets, costumes and special effects ever to have been created (Barry Lubin), who had been delighting Big Apple the Arts, 539 Tremont St., 617-933-8600. Performances through for the stage, Andrew Lloyd Webber’s masterpiece, directed by Apr 23: Thu–Sat at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 p.m., Sun at 7 p.m. Tickets: $25. Harold Prince, traces the tragic love story of a beautiful opera singer audiences since 1982. Refer to listing, page 20. When an unlikely squad of thieves band together to steal $750,000, and a young composer shamed by his physical appearance into a

Bertrand Guay/Big Apple Cir they become prisoners in a mob boss’s basement. Told they have shadowy existence beneath the majestic Paris Opera House. until sunrise to choose one person to die and three to donate their gious and oldest road races in the world. The streets of Boston and The Beanstalk, the Giant and Jack, Wheelock Family Theatre, thumbs, the four struggle for self-awareness, self-acceptance and Roberta, The Boston Conservatory Theater, 31 Hemenway St., 617- its western suburbs are lined with roaring spectators offering their 200 The Riverway, 617-879-2300. Performances: Fri at 7:30 p.m., self-love in a high-octane battle for survival in this outrageous black 912-9222. Performances Apr 21–23: Thu–Sat at 8 p.m. Tickets: support to the world-class athletes and countless amateurs that run Sat & Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $12–20. Watch five magic beans sprout comedy by Stephen Adly Guirgis (Our Lady of 121st Street, Last Days $4–16. When John Kent, all-American football hero, inherits a Parisian the 26.2 miles of this race annually. Related event: Pre-Race Pasta into a world of adventure! What waits for Jack at the top of the tow- of Judas Iscariot). dress shop from his Aunt Minnie—who runs the shop under the name Dinner, City Hall Plaza. Apr 17 from 4–9 p.m. Runners attend this ering beanstalk? Young and old alike will roar with laughter at the of Roberta—comedy and romance ensue. With music by Jerome Kern traditional carbo-loading feast for free, though some addition tickets antics of a crazy cast of characters, drawn from the classic figures of Gagarin Way, Súgán Theatre Company, Roberts Theatre, Calderwood and book and lyrics by Otto Harbach, this play adapted from Alice Duer are available the day of the event. Refer to feature story, page 12. the Commedia dell’Arte of 15th century Italy. Pavilion at the Boston Center for the Arts, 527 Tremont St., 617-933- Miller’s book Gowns by Roberta includes such musical gems as “Smoke 8600. Performances through Apr 23: Wed–Sat at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 Gets in Your Eyes,” “The Touch of Your Hand” and “I Won’t Dance.” Boston Red Sox Major League Baseball Blinders, Out of the Blue Theater Company, Boston Playwrights’ p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets $34–38. Existentialism, the crisis of mas- Fenway Park, 4 Yawkey Way, 617-482-4SOX Theatre, 949 Commonwealth Ave., 1-866-811-4111. Performances culinity, globalization and anarchy are on the agenda in this black com- Shear Madness, Charles Playhouse Stage II, 74 Warrenton St., 617- Apr 11 at 3:05 p.m. vs. New York Yankees (Opening Day) through Apr 17: Thu–Sat at 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: $20, sen- edy by Scottish playwright Gregory Burke that was hailed as among the 426-5225. Performances: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 6:30 and 9:30 p.m., Apr 13 & 14 at 7:05 p.m. vs. New York Yankees iors and students $10. In this award-winning political satire by Patrick best of 2001 by The Daily Telegraph, The Guardian and The Observer. Sun at 3 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $34–50. Boston’s hilarious whodun- Apr 15 & 16 at 1:20 p.m. vs. Tampa Bay Devil Rays Gabridge, scientists announce an astounding discovery—they’ve found nit where the audience takes a stab at catching the killer. Become an Apr 17 at 2:05 p.m. vs. Tampa Bay Devil Rays two men, not twins, who are exactly alike. The media and the public I Am My Own Wife, The Wilbur Theatre, 246 Tremont St., 617-931- armchair sleuth in the longest-running non-musical play in U.S. history. Apr 18 at 11:05 a.m. vs. Toronto Blue Jays turn them into instant celebrities, but one reporter can clearly see that 2787. Performances Apr 19–24: Tue–Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 2 and 8 Apr 19 at 7:05 p.m. vs. Toronto Blue Jays these “duplicates” don’t even look alike. Her desperate struggle to p.m., Sun at 2 and 7:30 p.m. Tickets: $32.50–72.50. This one-man Refer to story, page 8. expose the truth, even as the popularity of this unnatural duo threatens play written by Doug Wright (Quills) tells the fascinating tale of TICKETS to engulf the world, leads the audience on a twisted, comic odyssey. Charlotte von Mahlsdorf, a real-life German transvestite who man- aged to survive the Nazi onslaught and the ensuing repressive Bostix, Faneuil Hall Marketplace and Copley Square, 617-723-5181. THEATER Blue Man Group, Charles Playhouse, 74 Warrenton St., 617-931- Communist regime. Directed by Moisés Kaufman (The Laramie Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. (Faneuil Hall closed Mon); Sun 11 a.m.–4 2787 or 617-426-6912. Performances: Wed & Thu at 8 p.m.; Fri at 7 Project) and winner of two Tony awards as well as the Pulitzer Prize p.m. Information and tickets, including half-price seats on day of event, Anne of Green Gables, Boston Children’s Theatre, McCormack p.m.; Sat at 4, 7 and 10 p.m.; Sun at 2 and 5 p.m. Tickets: $43–53. for Drama in 2004, the play stars Tony- and Obie-award winner for the best performing arts around Boston. Subject to availability. Theatre, UMass Boston, 100 Morrissey Blvd., 1-866-811-4111. This giddily subversive off-Broadway hit features three muted, blue- Jefferson Mays portraying more than 40 characters. Performances: Apr 16 & 17 and 20–23 at 2 p.m. Tickets: $10–22. painted performers who spoof both contemporary art and modern When old Marilla Cuthbert and her curmudgeonly brother Matthew technology through wry commentary and bemusing antics. The show Living Out, Lyric Stage Company, 140 Clarendon St., 617-437- TRANSPORTATION finally acknowledged they could use a little help at Green Gables, they has been updated to include new performance pieces, new music 7172. Performances through Apr 23: Wed at 2 and 7:30 p.m., Thu definitely specified a boy. But there stood Anne at the train station, and and alterations to the sound and lighting design. at 7:30 p.m., Fri at 8 p.m., Sat at 4 and 8 p.m., Sun at 3 p.m. Tickets: Boston Town Car, 617-782-4000. Downtown to Logan: $20; no way to send her back. Anne’s bright willingness soon wins the $19–45. When a Latin American immigrant with children of her own Back Bay to Logan: $25. Lincoln Town Car executive sedans available at hearts of all Avonlea in this delightful musical adaptation of L.M. Company, The Company Theatre, 30 Accord Park Drive, Norwell, signs on as the nanny for a have-it-all power lawyer, both mothers reasonable rates. Professional, courteous drivers for tours, airport, getting Montgomery’s 1908 novel by Donald Harron and Norman Campbell. 781-871-2787. Performances through Apr 24: Wed & Thu at 7:30 must struggle to find common ground across a vast cultural divide. around town and long distance runs. All major credit cards accepted.

22 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 23 SHOPPING 212-step construction process, features shoes made of top-quality . . . Just a leather and all-natural materials. Available in 164 different size and Heartbeat width combinations. away!

Cartier, 40 Newbury St., 617-262-3300. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. If diamonds are forever, the House of Cartier is timeless. With more than 150 years of experience as one of the world’s leading luxury goods companies, Cartier is a symbol of prestige, glamour, innovation and quality. This premier jeweler offers a dazzling display of dia- monds, jewelry and accessories, including timepieces, silver, crystal, perfume, designer pens and leather accessories.

Chanel Boutique, 5 Newbury St., on the ground floor of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 617-859-0055. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Modeled after the famed Chanel Boutique in Paris, the Boston outpost of this storied franchise offers a range of Chanel products, including a line of clothing designed by

Shaun Kenney Karl Lagerfeld, as well as shoes, accessories, handbags and fragrances.

The LONG Run by Diana Aramburu Ermenegildo Zegna, 39 Newbury St., 617-424-9300. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Originally a small, family-run textile MARATHON SPORTS 671 Boylston St., 617-267-4774 and three other locations. business transformed into a world leader in elegant men’s clothing, obert Kirsch, the business manager of Marathon Sports, knew the runner’s boutique was this Italian design house has focused passionately on quality since its founding in 1910. Today, Zegna is a fourth-generation, family-run a hit when one of its customers ran right off the Boston Marathon’s course and into its R enterprise that boasts a tradition of designing and producing the At The Corner Mall you have the store in Wellesley Hills. The athlete’s shoes were causing a blister on her instep to bleed, and finest in menswear by utilizing exclusive fabric designs. Zegna is also best of Boston with boutiques and as Kirsch recalls, “We immediately dressed her wound, got her a fresh pair of socks and a new known for its vast, first-rate necktie selection. an international food court offering something for every palate! pair of shoes and got her back out on the course to finish the race.” One of few runner’s John Fluevog, 302 Newbury St., 617-266-1079. Mon–Sat 11 At the Corner of Winter & Washington Streets specialty stores nationwide, all four Marathon shops share a similar focus. Even casual joggers a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun 1–6 p.m. This funky footwear retailer features benefit from an attentive staff ready to fit you with the proper shoes by taking into account your shoes created by the maverick designer. His highly original creations body’s range of motion, and even sending customers outside for a test drive. All of the fuss range from mind-bending platforms to the classic black boot and his tried-and-true “Angels,” placing him on the cutting edge of footwear comes from the philosophy that everybody can maintain an active lifestyle with the right shoes. design for both men and women. The Newbury Street locale is the If Marathon is right, shopping may finally help lighten your load without just draining your wallet. only place in Boston to find a wide range of his styles.

John Lewis, Inc., 97 Newbury St., 617-266-6665. Tue–Sat 11 I Newbury Street 24 every shopper’s dream. The best way to grasp a.m.–6 p.m. John Lewis has been creating jewelry of imaginative the city’s diversity is simply to explore. The fol- design in Boston’s Back Bay for more than 30 years. Using only solid precious metals and natural stones, he makes the jewelry in his own Back Bay/Boylston Street 26 lowing pages describe the various shopping N workshop and signs it with the unique John Lewis trademark. His Charles Street 27 areas and provide a taste of what they offer. aim is “to make jewelry at a reasonable price, of excellent workman- ship and uncommon beauty.” Jewelry designed by John Lewis is D Downtown Crossing 27 creative, professional and impressive—a statement of good taste Faneuil Hall Marketplace 28 NEWBURY STREET and a constant delight to the wearer. E Cambridge/Harvard Square 29 One of the most popular shopping areas in the city, A Knit and Needlepoint Store by Mary Jo Cole, 11 Newbury St. Newbury Street is the home of exclusive designer bou- (between Arlington and Berkeley streets), 617-536-9338; fax 617-536- X Arts & Antiques 29 tiques and high-end fashion shops, numerous art gal- 9333. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun by chance. The fine art of hand- leries, interesting restaurants and cafes, beauty salons painted needlepoint and gorgeous knitting yarns are showcased here. Boston is a shopper’s paradise. You’ll and spas, and unusual gift and jewelry shops. Individual instruction is available at a moment’s notice from the knowl- edgeable staff and there is never a charge for lessons when the project discover stores ranging from heavy- Akris, 16 Newbury St., 617-536-6225. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m. is purchased here. Whatever your particular interest, Mary Jo Cole has a weights like Filene’s, Macy’s, Saks Fifth Founded in Switzerland in 1922 by the Kriemler family, this design broad selection of patterns and materials from which to choose. Also Avenue and Giorgio Armani to unique, house is the only true couture house outside of Paris and Milan that offering fine finishing. Visit the website at www.needlepoint-boston.com. closet-sized boutiques. Whether your has distinguished itself for its creative, elegant and modern fashions. Its designer collection for women is comprised of elegant, understated Louis Boston, 234 Berkeley St., 617-262-6100. Mon 11 a.m.–6 p.m.; tastes run to exclusive designer creations suits, coats, dresses and a selection of evening wear. Tue & Wed 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 7 p.m. Housed in a historic Back or the casual, country look, handmade Bay building that was once the New England Museum of Natural History, furniture or the latest electronic gadgetry, Allen-Edmonds, 36 Newbury St., 617-247-3363. Mon–Sat 9:30 this Boston institution is one of the most unique and influential clothing a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Step out in luxurious style with Allen- stores in the world. It has maintained its cutting-edge allure by offering antique jewelry or superbly crafted Edmonds’ collections of wing tips, capped toes and slip-on kilties upscale men’s fashions by a range of up-and-coming designers, as well leather goods, there’s a store to fulfill and tassles. This world-class men’s footwear retailer, famous for its as women’s fashions, bed and bath items, and home accessories.

24 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 25 S HOPPING Newbury Comics, 332 Newbury St., 617-236-4930. Mon–Thu 10 Copley Place, Copley Square, 617-369-5000. The magnificent tourist destinations, including Boston Duck Tours, Beantown Trolley and a.m.–10:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Also: Copley Place features more than 100 upscale stores, including Boston’s tallest skyscraper observatory, the Skywalk View and Exhibit. Government Center, 1 Washington Mall, 617-248-9992; 36 JFK St. Neiman Marcus, Tiffany & Co., Gucci, BOSS Hugo Boss and (in the Garage Mall), Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-491-0337; Williams-Sonoma. A variety of restaurants, including Legal Sea Simon’s Men’s Clothing, 220 Clarendon St., between Newbury 211 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, 617-491-7711. You’ll have Foods, provide shoppers with many dining options. To receive a free and Boylston, 617-266-2345. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–6 p.m., Wed & Thu a “wicked good time” at this upstart local chain of music stores, which Ultimate Shopping Excursions card, which offers savings at many ’til 7 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. This store has been offering fine men’s offers hands-down the cheapest CDs in town, including import, domes- Copley Place shops as well as at a number of nearby tourist attrac- clothing at realistic prices for four generations and is the oldest fam- tic, independent and major label releases. It also features an array of tions, stop by one of the customer service kiosks. ily-run men’s clothing store in Boston. Located just off Newbury T-shirts, comic books, jewelry and other pop culture kitsch items. Street in historic Copley Square, Simon’s has both business and The Heritage on the Garden, 300 Boylston St., 617-426-9500. casual wear in classic and updated styles. Featuring quick, expert Niketown, 200 Newbury St., 617-267-3400. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– Call for individual store hours. This residential/office/retail complex alterations for busy travelers, they can often do complete tailoring 7 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. An enormous temple to the Nike franchise, located alongside the Public Garden features a handful of upscale the same day and ship anywhere in the world. Many of the thou- this sporting goods retailer proffers all things Nike, including retailers, including St. John Boutique, Sonia Rykiel, Escada, Hermes, sands of students who graduate from colleges in Boston buy their footwear, apparel, equipment and accessories. The store features an Candela Spa and Anne Fontaine. first interview suits at Simon’s and continue to shop wherever they homage to the Boston Marathon, seats from the old Boston Garden roam via Simon’s extensive website. www.simonsclothing.com. and autographed shoes from former Marathon champion Uta Pippig. Kim’s Fashion Design, 2 Copley Place, Suite 200, 617-267-9299; 12 Kneeland St., Chinatown, 617-426-5740. Copley: Daily 10 Pucker Gallery, 171 Newbury St., 617-267-9473. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9 p.m.; Chinatown: Daily noon–6 p.m. Kim Pham, owner and CHARLES STREET a.m.–5:30 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Founded in 1967 as a showcase for the seamstress of these unique stores, has been a driving force in the talents of Israeli artists, the gallery has displayed and sold a wide range Asian fashion industry for over 20 years. As a child, Kim was intro- Charles Street is the main commercial area of historic of art across the United States, Canada and around the world, including duced to the family business of custom design in a small shop in Beacon Hill. Brick sidewalks, gas-lit streetlamps, works by Chagall, Picasso and Hundertwasser. Recent special exhibits Vietnam, and her motivation and passion for the industry has only quaint stores, romantic restaurants and cozy cafes COWBOY BOOTS include the distinctive work of Samuel Bak and Brother Thomas. grown with time. Specializing in couture, Asian-inspired apparel for tucked away on every level of the brownstones make MEN N WOMEN N CHILDREN Boots N Lucchese N Justin N Nocona both men and women, Kim uses only the finest silks for each piece, this one of the most charming areas in the city. Tony Lama N Dan Post N Frye N Liberty The Society of Arts and Crafts, 175 Newbury St., 617-266-1810. with painstaking attention to detail and overall fit. STETSON HATS Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. The oldest nonprofit Black Ink, 101 Charles St., 617-723-3883; 5 Brattle St., Shirts N Belts N Buckles N Bolo Ties craft organization in the country, established in 1897. The Society Lux Bond & Green, 416 Boylston St., 617-266-4747. Mon–Sat 10 Cambridge, 617-497-1221. Mon–Sat 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sun noon–6 HELEN’S LEATHER specializes in contemporary American crafts, jewelry, furniture, glass a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m. Since 1898, Lux Bond & Green has pro- p.m. Trendy knick-knacks, from silk change purses to sensual can- 110 Charles St., Boston, MA 617.742.2077 and ceramics ranging from cutting edge to traditional, and from func- vided its customers with diamonds, gold jewelry, watches and gift- dles to sushi-eating accessories, and nostalgic memorabilia such tional to sculptural. In addition to the retail crafts gallery, there is an ware from around the world. The store offers a corporate gift divi- as tin lunch boxes can be found at this quirky, fun gift shop. exhibition gallery featuring four shows each year. sion, bridal and gift registry, a full-service repair department, gift certificates and elegant gift-wrapping. Helen’s Leather, 110 Charles St., 617-742-2077. Mon, Wed, Fri Urban Outfitters, 361 Newbury St., 617-236-0088. Mon–Thu 10 & Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Thu noon–8 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. Closed a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun noon–8 p.m. Also: 11 JFK Marshalls, 500 Boylston St., 617-262-6066. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–9 Tue. For over thirty years, Helen’s Leather has been supplying New St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-864-0070. Where urban hip- p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m.; 350 Washington St., Downtown Englanders with one of the area’s largest selections of quality Experience ready to sters turn for a wide selection of funky men’s and women’s fashions, Crossing, 617-338-6205. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–7:30 p.m.; Sun 11 Western boots. Boot makers include Lucchese, Liberty, Tony Lama, wear & couture Asian from cutting-edge independent designs to clothing staples. The store a.m.–6 p.m. Its mantra “Brand name clothing for less” has made Justin, Nocona and Frye. Along with the boots, Helen’s also has a also features a wide array of housewares, shoes, accessories, gifts, this discount retailer a bargain-hunter’s dream come true. From great selection of Western belts, buckles, shirts and Stetson hats, inspired apparel for books, cards and other bric-a-brac. Ralph Lauren to Calvin Klein, Marshalls features designer clothing as well as a great selection of leather jackets and bags. men and women. for men, women and children. Virgin Megastore, 360 Newbury St., 617-896-0950. Daily 10 Koo de Kir, 34 Charles St., 617-723-8111. Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–7 a.m.–midnight. The British music retail heavyweight makes its New Restoration Hardware, 711 Boylston St., 617-578-0088. p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. This sleek home KIM’S England debut with its 22nd North American location. Three levels Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. This unique hardware goods store exudes warmth and irreverence with its selection of and more than 40,000 square feet of space feature thousands of retailer features sleek, distinctive, high-quality items for the home— unique, fashionable home essentials, from serving trays and FASHION books, CDs, videos and DVDs, as well as interactive listening kiosks from classic home furnishings to lighting and kitchen accessories to lamps to teapots and coffee mugs. DESIGN and the Virgin Cafe on the top floor. garden supplies, tools, books, fixtures and other unique devices. Each product is imbued with the store’s classic design, affordable Wish, 49 Charles St., 617-227-4441. Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–7 p.m., COPLEY MALL pricing and whimsical product information. Thu ’til 8 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m. Proving you 617-267-9299 BACK BAY/BOYLSTON STREET can find hip couture off Newbury Street, this fashion boutique is Shreve, Crump & Low, 330 Boylston St., 617-267-9100. Mon–Sat home to designers like Nanette Lapore, Rebecca Taylor and Jean CHINATOWN In the area framed by the Hynes Convention Center 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Serving Bostonians since 1796, this tried-and- Yu. The chic yet welcoming shop offers cashmere sweaters, pink FROM THE CROWD 617-426-5740 at one end and the famed jewelers Shreve, Crump true Boston institution boasts of being the oldest continuously oper- chiffon dresses, rhinestone-detailed turtlenecks and beaded purs- & Low, the beautiful Public Garden and the bustling ating luxury business in the country. Its landmark art deco store is es—all perfect for a night on the town. Theater District at the other, shoppers can find filled with cases of glittering diamonds, fine jewelry and watches. many department stores, bookshops, florists, The galleries also offer silver, china, crystal, porcelain, stationery, jewelers and restaurants. furniture, antiques, giftware and much more. DOWNTOWN CROSSING

Crate & Barrel, 777 Boylston St., 617-262-8700. Mon–Sat 10 The Shops at Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., 1-800-SHOP- Dynamic Downtown Crossing is jammed with stores a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Also: Faneuil Hall Marketplace, PRU. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Located in the and services of every conceivable nature. Streets are Model: Yasmin

617-742-6025; 48 Brattle St., Cambridge, 617-876-6300. Call for heart of Boston’s Back Bay, The Shops at Prudential Center features bricked over to form a pedestrian walkway where cars AND OUT Ad Design: other location hours. This fun yet sophisticated home fashions store over 75 shops and restaurants including The Cheesecake Factory, are not permitted during business hours. The area Gunnar G. features everything from kitchenware and furniture to flatware, Legal Sea Foods, Saks Fifth Avenue, Ann Taylor, J. Jill and Alpha offers outdoor benches, street vendors and fast-food ST 617-407-5595 glassware and bath and body accessories. Omega Fine Jewelry and Watches. It is also home to the city’s best eateries that create a convenient shopping district.

26 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 27

S HOPPING The Corner Mall, corner of Winter and Washington streets. Open department store opened its Boston outpost in 2001. Its mantra of Bill Rodgers Running Center, 353 North Market Place, Faneuil authorized agent for more than 20 prestigious watch brands includ- daily. One-stop shopping and eating in Downtown Crossing. Across “fashion and quality at the best price” translates to inexpensive, trendy Hall Marketplace, 617-723-5612. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.– 8:45 p.m.; ing Akteo, Bertolucci, Breitling, Georg Jensen, Movado, Omega, from Filene’s Basement, you’ll find the latest styles at a variety of clothes for men and women. H & M scours the globe in search for the Sun noon–6 p.m. Owned by four-time Boston Marathon winner and Rado, Seiko, Alain Silberstein, TAG Heuer and Raymond Weil. Don’t exciting shops, from Discovery Imports and Bath & Body Works to freshest, most up-to-date fashion trends in color, material and style. legend Bill Rodgers, this footwear retailer is committed to helping miss the exceptional collection of jewels, gold and platinum treas- Lids and Aldo Shoe. In addition, the Corner Mall features an inter- runners of all levels choose the most suitable shoes, not just the ures or the new and vintage Swatch collection. national food court offering eateries to please every palate, includ- Macy’s, 450 Washington St., 617-357-3195. Mon–Sat 9:30 a.m.– bestselling or most expensive. Features include a vast selection of ing Cafe La Brioche, Sakkio Japan, India Express and Bourbon 8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This famous New York-based depart- shoes, apparel and accessories along with an experienced, knowl- CambridgeSide Galleria, 100 CambridgeSide Place, Cambridge, Street Cafe. ment giant features floor after floor of the latest culinary tools, bed edgeable staff. 617-621-8666. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. and bath items, incredible gifts and the hottest fashions. Choose Conveniently located at the Lechmere stop on the Green Line, this Filene’s, 426 Washington St., 617-357-2100. Mon–Sat 9:30 a.m.– from your favorite designers—Polo, Liz Claiborne, Nautica, Jones Marketplace Center, located between Faneuil Hall and the three-level mall features department stores such as Filene’s, Sears 8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Founded in Boston in 1851, Filene’s is New York and DKNY—or Macy’s exclusive labels. Waterfront. Twenty-four distinctive shops surround an open court and Best Buy, as well as more than 100 other stores and specialty New England’s premier department store, offering six floors of known as the Exedra, where you will always find a wide range of shops including the largest Gap in Boston, Abercrombie & Fitch, J. apparel and accessories for the entire family. Discover the latest col- T.J. Maxx, 350 Washington St., 617-695-2424. Mon–Sat 9 a.m.– unusual pushcarts and entertainment events unique to this won- Crew, Old Navy, Borders, Victoria’s Secret and more. lections from renowned designers such as Donna Karan, Calvin 7:30 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. This discount retailer offers brand derful area. Within walking distance are literally hundreds of other Klein, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger as well as cosmetics and name and designer fashions for men, women, teens and kids, as shops, restaurants, pubs and nightspots. SEE LOCATOR #12 ON The Garment District, 200 Broadway, Cambridge, 617-876-5230. fragrances from Chanel and Lancôme and bed and bath products well as accessories, fine jewelry and items for the home. Prices are CENTER MAP. Sun–Tue 11 a.m.–7 p.m., Wed–Fri ’til 8 p.m.; Sat 9 a.m.–7 p.m. A by Laura Ashley and Croscill. slashed 20 to 60 percent off most department store rates. T.J. Maxx vintage clothing-lover’s paradise, this two-level thrift warehouse is a offers current trends of the highest quality. local institution. The offerings include an array of corduroys, painter Filene’s Basement, 426 Washington St., 617-542-2011. Mon–Fri CAMBRIDGE/HARVARD SQUARE pants and vintage Levi’s; knock-off designer dresses; ironic old- 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sat 9 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. There school T-shirts; ’70s go-go boots; and more polyester than at a con- are certain “musts” for visitors to Boston: a ride on the Swan Boats, FANEUIL HALL MARKETPLACE Home of Harvard’s hallowed halls, this eclectic neigh- vention of used-car salesmen. The ambitious (or desperate) among a tour of the Freedom Trail and a shopping trip to Filene’s Basement. borhood is the heart of Cambridge. This mecca of you can sift through the mounds of clothing at the downstairs For more than 90 years, the Basement has provided Boston shop- Quincy Market, the centerpiece of Faneuil Hall stores includes an array of small bookshops, clothing Dollar-A-Pound. pers with terrific bargains. The store’s automatic markdown system Marketplace, was an early American marketplace stores, quaint coffee houses and restaurants. guarantees that the longer the item remains on the selling floor, the filled with food and produce vendors. Now it houses Tower Records, 95 Mt. Auburn St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, greater the discount. countless stores, restaurants and snack counters. Alpha Omega, 1380 Mass. Ave., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617- 617-876-3377. Sun–Thu 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til midnight. This The North and South Markets are home to more than 864-1227. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thu ’til 7 p.m.; Sun noon–6 music superstore features everything from CDs, tapes and records H & M, 350 Washington St., 617-482-7081. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–8 125 stores where shoppers indulge in everything from p.m. Also: The Shops at Prudential Center, 800 Boylston St., 617- to videos, books and periodicals. Its music selection runs the gamut p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m. This youthful, cutting-edge European jewelry and clothes to flowers and art. 494-9030. Dedicated to the art of timekeeping, Alpha Omega is an from classical to country to current pop, rock and soul sounds.

A RTS & A NTIQUES IF YOU LOVE BOSTON, THEN STAY INTERNATIONAL POSTER GALLERY IN TOUCH ALL YEAR-ROUND! World Leading Collection of Original Vintage Posters Internationally renowned collection of Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Avant-Garde posters from Italy, Switzerland, France, Holland, the Soviet Union and more. Dating from 1890 to the present; subjects range from food and beverages, fashion and travel to war and propaganda. Special exhibitions throughout the year. Visit the gallery online at www.internationalposter.com. 205 Newbury Street (between Exeter and Fairfield streets) — 617-375-0076 Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun noon–6 p.m.

MASSACHUSETTS Now you can get PANORAMA delivered right to your ANTIQUES COOPERATIVE $ door—every two weeks—for only 49 More than 125 dealers of quality antiques and collectibles. “A don’t-miss for That’s 26 issues each year lovers of antiques... everything you can think of under one roof.” (Where magazine) “The best of the suburban lot!” (Yankee Magazine & Newsletter) “Browsers will find everything... [Shopping here is] like exploring a wonder- Call 617-423-3400 or subscribe onlline: ful, cluttered attic...” (The Boston Globe Magazine). www.massantiques.com. Only 8 miles from Boston: Mass Pike (90) W; www.panoramamagazine.com/subscribe 100 Felton Street, Waltham — 781-893-8893 128 N to Exit 26 (Rt. 20 E); right on Moody Street; right at Felton (first light). 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Thu ’til 8 p.m.; closed Tue

28 PANORAMA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 1 •2 • 3• 4•5 T 1 R Red Line

MBT D A Subw Public Restrooms Pedestrian Bridges Charles River Basin LEGEND • T ay Stops LEGEND Or •

ange Line Charles River Basin FENWAY/ Pedestrian Bridges 2 KENMORE SQUARE MBTA Subway Stops T Red Line T Orange Line E T Blue Line T Green Line • •

see opposite page for CAMBRIDGE 3 detail F

• •

4 G

• •

H 5

• •

J 6 & SOMER

CAMBRIDGE • •

K 7

VILLE • •

L D C B A 8 E • • • • • 5 • 6 • 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 • 12 • 13 • 14 • 15 CHARLESTOWN (see following page) LEGEND D Freedom Trail & Sites D * Black Heritage Trail Pedestrian Area W City Water Taxi Stops • Charles River Basin • Pedestrian Bridges R Public Restrooms

E MBTA Subway Stops E T Red Line T Orange Line T Blue Line T Green Line • •

see page 30 for CAMBRIDGE detail F F FENWAY/KENMORE SQUARE (see previous page) • •

G G

•

H H

• •

J J

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K K

• •

L L AP INDEX A A M CHARLESTOWN POINTS OF INTEREST Northeastern University K4 142 ADVERTISER INDEX African Meeting House F9 100 Old City Hall G10 143 The Barking Crab H13 1 Arlington Street Church G8 Old Corner Bookstore G10 144 Bob the Chef’s K6 2 Back Bay Station J7 Old North Church E11 145 Caffe Pompei E11 3 Berklee College of Music H5 102 Old South Meeting House G10 146 • • Berklee Performance Center H5 Old State House G11 147 Chart House G13 4 Black Falcon Cruise Port L15 The Opera House H9 148 Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse H8 5 Black Heritage Trail – – – F9 103 Park Street Church G10 149 Fajitas & ’Ritas H9 6 Boston Center for the Arts J8 104 Park Street Station G9 150 Florentine Café F12 7 Boston City Hall F10 Paul Revere House E11 151 The Hungry i F8 8 B B Boston Common G9 Paul Revere Mall E12 152 Jasper White’s Summer Shack H5 9 Boston Convention & Exhibition Ctr. K13 Post Office Square G11 153 Jimmy’s Harborside K14 10 Boston Design Center K15 Prudential Center H6 120 Lucca Restaurant F11 11 Boston Massacre Site G11 The Public Garden (Swan Boats) G8 Marketplace Center G12 12 Boston Public Library H6 Quincy Market G11 154 Skywalk Observatory at the • • Boston Tea Party Ship & Museum J12 105 Robert Gould Shaw Memorial G9 155 LEGEND Boston University G2 Rowes Wharf H13 Prudential Center G6 13 Freedom Trail & Sites Bunker Hill Monument B9 Shubert Theatre J9 Advertiser map locator *W City Water Taxi Stops Bunker Hill Pavilion (Charlestown map) C10 Sightseeing boats G13 Central Burying Ground H9 Simmons College K3 156 C Charles River Basin C Charles Playhouse J9 South Station Information Center J11 157 Eliot Suite Hotel H4 Pedestrian Bridges Charlestown Navy Yard (Charlestown map) C11 State House G9 Embassy Suites Boston Logan Airport E15 R Public Restrooms Cheers Bar G8 Suffolk University F9 158 The Fairmont Copley Plaza H7 Hwy. Entrances & Exits Children’s Museum J12 106 Symphony Hall J5 159 Fifteen Beacon Street G9 21 Christian Science Center J5 107 Tip O’Neill Building E9 160 Four Seasons Hotel H8 Christopher Columbus Park F12 Transportation Building H9 Hampton Inn, Crosstown Center L7 • MBTA Subway Stops • Citgo sign G3 Trinity Church G7 161 The Harborside Inn G12 T Green Line T Orange Line Colonial Theatre H9 USS Constitution (Charlestown map) D10 Hilton Boston Back Bay H5 Conference Center at Harvard Medical J2 108 USS Constitution Museum D10 Hilton Boston Logan Airport F16 Copley Place J7 109 Wang Center for the Performing Arts J9 162 Holiday Inn Express L9 Copley Square H7 Wheelock College J2 163 Holiday Inn/Logan Airport D16 D D Copley Theatre H7 Wilbur Theatre J9 Holiday Inn/Brookline H1 Copps Hill Burial Ground E11 110 World Trade Center J14 Holiday Inn Select/Government Center F9 Custom House Tower G12 111 Zoo New England/Franklin Park Zoo L6 164 Holiday Inn/Somerville A6 7 • 8 • 9 • 10 • 11 Cutlter Majestic Theatre H9 Hotel Buckminster G3 Downtown Crossing H10 CAMBRIDGE MAP Hotel Commonwealth G4 Emerald Necklace J1-J11 Cambridge City Hall C4 Howard Johnson Lodge H3 Emerson College H9 112 CambridgeSide Galleria D7 Hyatt Harborside Hotel H15 Emmanuel College J2 113 Harvard Art Museums-Fogg/Sackler B3 165 Hyatt Regency Boston, Financial District H10 Exchange Conference Ctr. J15 114 Harvard Museum of Natural History A3 166 John Hancock Conference Center H7 MBTA SUBWAY MAP Faneuil Hall G11 Harvard Square B2 Jurys Boston H8 Fenway Park H3 Harvard University B2 Langham Hotel, Boston G11 FleetBoston Pavilion K14 115 MIT E5 Lenox Hotel H6 FleetCenter E10 116 Marriott Courtyard H7 Freedom Trail • • • • • G9 117 HEALTHCARE Marriott’s Custom House G12 Government Center G10 Beth Israel Deaconess Med. Ctr. J2 180 Marriott Quincy L9 Granary Burial Ground G10 118 Boston Medical Center L8 181 The Midtown Hotel J6 Hatch Memorial Shell F7 Brigham & Women’s Hosp. K1 182 Millennium Bostonian Hotel F11 Haymarket (Open-air market) F11 Children’s Hospital K2 183 Milner Hotel H9 Horticultural Hall J5 119 Dana Farber Cancer Institute K1 184 NINE ZERO Hotel G10 Huntington Theatre Co./BU Theatre K5 Harvard School of Public Health L2 185 Omni Parker House G10 Hynes Convention Center H5 Joslin Diabetes Center K1 184 Onyx Hotel E10 Information Centers: Longwood Medical area K2 Radisson Hotel H8 Boston Common G9 117 Mass. Eye & Ear Infirmary E8 186 Ramada Inn Boston L9 Prudential Center H6 120 Mass. General Hospital E8 187 Residence Inn by Marriott on Tudor Wharf D10 National Park Service G11 121 New England Baptist Hosp. L1 188 Ritz Carlton Boston Common H10 Logan Airport (Terminals A & E) F16,G16 122 New England Med. Ctr. J9 189 Ritz Carlton Hotel G8 Institute of Contemporary Art H5 123 Spaulding Rehabilitation Hosp. D9 190 Seaport Hotel K14 International Place H12 124 Sheraton Boston H6 Isabella Stuart Gardner Museum K3 125 BOSTON LODGING Tage Inn Boston/Somerville A7 JFK Federal Building F10 126 Best Western Boston K1 Tremont House J9 JFK Library L10 127 Best Western Roadhouse Suites L8 Westin Hotel/Copley Plaza J7 John Hancock Tower H7 128 Best Western Terrace Inn G1 Wyndham Boston Hotel G12 Jordan Hall K5 Boston Harbor Hotel G12 Wyndham Chelsea A12 Jorge Hernandez Cultural Center K7 129 Boston Marriot/Copley Place J7 Joseph Moakley Courthouse J13 Boston Marriot/Long Wharf F12 CAMBRIDGE LODGING Kenmore Square G3 Boston Park Plaza H8 Charles Hotel B1 Kings Chapel & Burial Gr. G10 130 Brookline Courtyard by Marriott H1 Hampton Inn/Cambridge C7 Lansdowne Street H4 135 The Bulfinch Clarion Hotel E9 Harvard Square Hotel B1 Louisburg Square F8 136 Charlesmark Hotel H7 Hotel Marlowe D7 Mass. College of Art K3 137 Club Quarters G11 Hotel at MIT D4 Museum of Afro-American History F9 100 The Colonnade J6 Hyatt Regency/Cambridge E3 Museum of Fine Arts K4 138 Comfort Inn & Suites Boston/Airport D16 Inn at Harvard B2 Museum of Science D8 139 Copley Square Hotel H7 Marriott/Cambridge Center E6 New England Aquarium G13 Days Inn Boston B1 Radisson Hotel/Cambridge D2 New England Conservatory of Music K5 140 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Bayside L9 Residence Inn by Marriott/Cambridge D6 New Old South Church G6 141 Doubletree Club Hotel Boston Downtown J9 Royal Sonesta D7 North Station D9 Doubletree Guests Suites E1 Sheraton Commander A1

34 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 35 MUSEUMS seniors $7; students with I.D. $5; children (under 18) free. Visitors 18) $6.50 on weekdays before 3 p.m., free at all other times. named Isabella are admitted free. Commissioned by Boston aristocrat Separate ticketing for Gund Gallery exhibit. The museum houses an Isabella Stewart Gardner and modeled after a 15th-century Venetian outstanding collection of paintings, prints, sculptures, furnishings and

1994 palace, the museum exhibits 2,500 objects, including the works of other artwork from ancient times through the present, and boasts the Rembrandt, Botticelli, Raphael, Titian and Matisse. Special exhibit: most comprehensive collection of Asiatic art in the world. Special Chairs, by artist-in-residence Dayanita Singh. Special events: Apr 13 exhibits: Speed, Style and Beauty: Cars from the Ralph Lauren at noon—Tassels in the Titian Room: A Closer Look at Isabella Stewart Collection (separate ticketing ); Photographs by Hiroshi Sugimoto: The Gardner’s Ballgown, with conservator Bonnie Halvorson; Apr 22 at Sylvan Barnet and William Burto Collection; Pursuits of Power: way from the Flock,

A noon—Chairs Noontime Talk with Adam Fuss, free with admission. Falconry and the Samurai, 1600–1900; Lethal Elegance: The Art of Samurai Sword Fittings; through Apr 24—Damien Hirst; Sets, John F. Kennedy Library and Museum, off Morrissey Boulevard, Series and Suites: Contemporary Prints. next to UMass Boston, Dorchester, 1-877-616-4599. www.jfk

Damien Hirst, library.org. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $10; students & Museum of Science, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Open daily seniors $8; children (13–17) $7; children (under 12) free. This from 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri ’til 9 p.m. Admission: $14; seniors $12; chil- The SACRED and the Profane by Scott Roberto museum portrays Kennedy’s life, leadership and legacy in 21 ex- dren (3–11) $11; children (under 3) free. Planetarium, laser show and hibits, three theaters, 20 video presentations and more. Special Omni theater tickets: $8.50; seniors $7.50; children (3–11) $6.50. ontroversy has followed British artist Damien Hirst throughout his career. You might say exhibit: Presents for a President and First Lady, a display of 65 state Combination ticket prices and evening discounts available. Interactive Che even courts it. When he made a splash in 1991 with a shocking work consisting of a gifts given to President and Mrs. Kennedy by foreign leaders from exhibits covering all the sciences, plus laser and astronomy shows in around the globe. Special event: Apr 17 from 2–3:30 p.m.—John the Charles Hayden Planetarium and films in the Mugar Omni Theater. shark carcass suspended in formaldehyde, critics and the public were aghast. While his materi- Kenneth Galbraith: His Life and Time. Special exhibit: Playing With Time, a unique look at events that happen als may at times elicit scorn and disgust, his treatment of themes ranging from the fragility of too quickly or too slowly for humans to perceive. At the Mugar Omni life to the power of beauty are undoubtedly evocative. Through April 24, locals can see for Larz Anderson Auto Museum, Larz Anderson Park, 15 Newton Theater: Mystery of the Nile; Amazing Journeys; Forces of Nature; themselves what the hubbub is all about in Hirst’s first exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts. St., Brookline, 617-522-6547. Open Tue–Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Roar: Lions of the Kalahari. Refer to Currently section under Film for Admission: $5; students, seniors and children (6–18) $3; children (5 complete Mugar Omni Theater listings. Showing at the Planetarium: Seven pieces from the past decade are on display, some using such outlandish materials as a and under) free. Admission to the Lawn Events: $7; children $5. Fee Mission to Saturn; Countdown to Supernova; The Sky Tonight. dead lamb (pictured above) and dead flies (in the ominous Judgement Day). Living creatures includes admission to all museum exhibits. The oldest collection of also get their due in The Collector, a glass enclosure in which live butterflies flit around the ani- historic automobiles in the nation is displayed in the owner’s original Sports Museum of New England, 5th and 6th floor premium home. Special exhibit: L’automobile—A Century of Innovation and seating levels, TD Banknorth Garden, Causeway Street, 617-624- matronic dummy of a scientist oblivious to the colorful display around him. Whether you find Style celebrates the French automobile industry. 1234. Open daily 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission on the hour only, until 3 Hirst’s work repellent or not, there’s no denying its ability to provoke. Refer to listing page 37. p.m. Hours altered during TD Banknorth Garden events, call ahead. McMullen Museum of Art, Boston College,140 Commonwealth Admission: $6; seniors & children (6–17) $4; children (under 6) free. Ave., Chestnut Hill, 617-552-8100. Open Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–4 p.m.; The Sports Museum showcases the rich sports heritage of New Connects celebrates Boston’s many black cultures; Airplay illustrates Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Free admission. Closed ’til Apr 14. The England through an unparalleled collection of artifacts, multimedia I Boston 36 the amazing powers of air; The Hall of Toys gives kids a peek at intricate museum is lauded for presenting interdisciplinary exhibits that spark and works of art. Exhibits include the Boston Bruins Hall of Fame N dollhouse interiors. Refer to Kids Corner in Currently for special events. new questions and is renowned for its European, Asian and American portraits, the Boston Garden Penalty Box, New England’s Olympic D 37 collections. Gallery tours held every Fri at 12:30 p.m. Special exhibit: Heroes and much more. Cambridge Commonwealth Museum, Massachusetts Archives Building, 220 opening Apr 14—Tree: A New Vision of the American Forest. Special E Morrissey Blvd., 617-727-9268. Mon–Fri from 9 a.m.–5 p.m., sec- event: Apr 14 from 7–9:30 p.m.—Public Opening of Gone: Site- U.S.S. Constitution Museum, Charlestown Navy Yard, Charles- X Beyond Boston 38 ond and fourth Sat of the month ’til 3 p.m. (except holiday week- Specific Works by Dorothy Cross. town, 617-426-1812. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Free admission. ends). Free admission. Across from the JFK Library, this museum The museum preserves the treasures of “Old Ironsides,” the U.S. houses the collection of the Massachusetts Archives and is ideal for The Museum of Afro-American History, African Meeting House, Navy’s flagship and the world’s oldest remaining commissioned war- BOSTON fans of history or genealogy. Special exhibit: Archaeology of the 46 Joy St. (corner of Smith Court), Beacon Hill, 617-725-0022. ship. Includes weapons, documents, journals and more. Interactive Central Artery Project: Highway to the Past. www.afroammuseum.org. Open Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Free exhibits allow visitors to load and fire a cannon, try out a sailor’s Boston CityPass, www.citypass.com. Visit six of Boston’s admission; donations welcome. Explore the history of Boston’s 19th- sleeping quarters and virtually command the Constitution in battle. best attractions for one low price. Save 50 percent and avoid Institute of Contemporary Art, 955 Boylston St., 617-266-5152. century African-American community at the African Meeting House, ticket lines. Booklet price: $39; youth (3–11) $19.50. Ticket Open Tue, Wed & Fri noon–5 p.m., Thu ’til 9 p.m.; Sat & Sun 11 a.m.–5 the oldest African-American church still standing in the United States. booklets are available at the first attraction visited and are p.m. Admission: $7; students & seniors $5; children (under 12) free; Thu In addition, there are tour maps available for the Black Heritage Trail. CAMBRIDGE valid for a year. The CityPass ticket booklet includes admis- 5–9 p.m. free. Installations, featuring contemporary paintings, sculp- sion to six major attractions: the John F. Kennedy Library and tures and photographs, change regularly. Special exhibits: Likeness: The Museum of the National Center of Afro-American Artists, Due to limited parking, it’s best to take the Red Line Museum, New England Aquarium, Museum of Fine Arts, Portraits of Artists by Other Artists, including Robert Mapplethorpe’s 300 Walnut Ave., Roxbury, 617-442-8614. Open Tue–Sun 1–5 p.m.; when traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall squares. Museum of Science, Skywalk Observatory at the Prudential photograph of Louise Bourgeois, Deborah Kass’ silkscreen of Cindy by appointment for groups. Admission: $4; students & seniors $3. The Cambridge Discovery Booth located at the Harvard Center and Harvard Museum of Natural History. Sherman as Liza Minnelli and Elizabeth Peyton’s painting of David Housed in the former Oak Bend Mansion, a neo-Gothic structure built Square “T” entrance provides additional information. Hockney; Momentum 3: Kanishka Raja, the Calcutta-born, Boston- in the early 1870s, this museum holds a slide archive and an exten- The Children’s Museum, Museum Wharf, 300 Congress based artist creates large-scale paintings of strange, disorienting sive collection of African artifacts, prints and drawings; it also hosts Busch-Reisinger Museum, Werner Otto Hall, 32 Quincy St. (enter St., 617-426-8855. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Fri ’til 9 p.m. interior spaces that play with texture, pattern and perspective. Special national and international traveling exhibits. Special exhibit: opening through the Fogg Art Museum), 617-495-9400. Open Mon–Sat 10 Admission: $9; children (2–15) & seniors $7; children (one-year- events: Apr 15 at 8 p.m.—Artists’ Visions of Artists Film Series: Visions Apr 24—Myths and Metaphors: The Art of Leo Twiggs. a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun 1–5 p.m. Tours: Mon–Fri at 1 p.m. Admission: olds only) $2; children (under 1) free; Fri 5–9 p.m. (Family Night) of Warhol; Apr 16 at 10 a.m.—Family Day: Portrait Transfers; Apr 16 $6.50; seniors & college students $5; children (under 18) free; free $1. The museum features a variety of educational and entertain- at 7:30 p.m.—Special concert by Damon and Naomi with guests Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-267-9300. Open Sat 10 a.m.–noon. A museum devoted to promoting the enjoyment ing activities for children, including interactive exhibits that allow Michio Kurihara, Greg Kelley, Raising the Fawn and A Northern Chorus. Sat–Tue 10 a.m.–4:45 p.m.; Wed–Fri 10 a.m.–9:45 p.m. (Thu & Fri and critical understanding of Central and Northern European artists, children to learn about science, history and culture through after 5 p.m., west wing only). Admission (includes two visits in a 10- with an emphasis on German-speaking countries. Special exhibit: hands-on experience. Special exhibits: Boats Afloat allows kids Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 280 The Fenway, 617-566- day period): $15; college students & seniors $13; Thu & Fri after 5 “As though my body were naught but ciphers,” crises of representa- to explore urban water environments; Boston Black: A City 1401. Open Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $10; weekends $11; p.m., $2 discount; Wed after 4 p.m., pay as you wish; children (under tion in fin-de-siecle Vienna.

36 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 37 MUSEUMS Fogg Art Museum, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617-495-9400. Sackler Museum, Quincy and Broadway streets, 617-495-9400. closed Apr 18–29. Tour one of the largest contemporary art muse- Tours: Mon–Fri at 11 a.m.; see Busch-Reisinger Museum for hours Tours: Mon–Fri at 2 p.m.; see Busch-Reisinger Museum for hours and ums and the only permanent public sculpture park in New England. and admission fees. The museum displays European and American admission fees. Designed by James Stirling, Britain’s famous post-mod- Special exhibits: through Apr 17—Pretty Sweet: The Sentimental masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the present and hosts ernist architect, the museum houses ancient Oriental and Islamic collec- Image in Contemporary Art; Abstract Elements: The Dr. Beatrice H. concerts and guided tours. Special exhibits: Rubens and His tions. Its lecture hall hosts concerts, lectures and films. Special exhibits: Barrett Collection of Art. Special event: Apr 17 at 2 p.m.—Opening Collaborators displays the life works of the renowned Baroque The Sport of Kings: Art of the Hunt in Iran and India; through Apr Reception for Ornamental Art VI. artist; opening Apr 17—To Students of Art and Lovers of Beauty: 17—Marks of Enlightenment, Traces of Devotion: Japanese Calligraphy fresh & honest Highlights from the Collection of Grenville L. Winthrop;17th-Century and Painting from the Sylvan Barnet and William Burto Collection. National Heritage Museum, 33 Marrett Road, Lexington, 781- Dutch and Flemish Paintings. 861-6559. Mon–Sat 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sun noon–5 p.m. Free admis- sion. Dedicated to presenting exhibitions on a wide variety of topics Harvard Museum of Natural History, 26 Oxford St., 617-495- BEYOND BOSTON in American history and popular culture in an effort to preserve our 3045. Daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $7.50; college students & sen- national heritage. Special exhibits: George Washington: Freemason and iors $6; children (3–18) $5; free Sun 9 a.m.–noon and Wed 3–5 p.m. Concord Museum, 200 Lexington Road, Concord, 978-369-9763. Founding Father; Revere’s Ride and Longfellow’s Legend; Deep Inside Among the museum’s 17 galleries is the internationally acclaimed Mon–Sat 9 a.m.–5 p.m., Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $8; seniors & the Blues: Photographs by Margo Cooper; The Western Pursuit of the Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants, a unique collec- students with I.D. $7; children (6–17) $5; family rates available. American Dream: Selections from the Collection of Kenneth W. Rendell. serving breakfast, lunch, tion of over 3,000 glass flower models created between 1886 and Ample free parking on Cambridge Turnpike. Re-live Concord’s history, supper and brunch 1936. Special exhibit: Origins: Life’s First 3 Billion Years. from Native American habitation and European settlement to the Peabody Essex Museum, East India Square, Salem, 1-866-745- days of Emerson, Thoreau, the Alcotts and Hawthorne. Special exhib- 1876. Daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $13; seniors $11; students MIT List Visual Arts Center, 120 Ames St., 617-253-468. Tue–Sun it: Connecticut Valley Furniture by Eliphalet Chapin and His $9; children (16 and under) free. The nation’s oldest continually oper- noon–6 p.m., Fri. ’til 8 p.m.; closed holidays. Free admission. One of Contemporaries, 1750–1800. Special events: Apr 16 & 17 at 10 ating museum boasts a brand-new wing with a 190-seat auditorium Bostson’s premier showcases for contemporary art, the center a.m., 1 & 3 p.m., Apr 19–22 at 10 a.m. & 2 p.m.—Walking Tour of and a glass-covered atrium. The collection showcases African, Asian, reflects MIT’s position as a cutting edge research institution by pre- Concord’s Revolutionary Town, tickets by reservation: $12.50, seniors Pacific Island and American folk and decorative art; a maritime col- senting works from the world’s leading contemporary artists. $9, members and children $7.50; Apr 18 from 9 a.m.–5 p.m.— lection dating back to the museum’s earliest days; and the first col- Patriots Day events, free admission. lection of Native American art in the hemisphere. Special exhibits: 617.661.5005 The MIT Museum, 265 Mass. Ave., 617-253-4444. Tue–Fri 10 Island Thresholds: Contemporary Art from the Caribbean; Our Land: at the charles hotel a.m.–5 p.m.; Sat & Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students, sen- DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park, 51 Sandy Pond Contemporary Art from the Arctic; In Nature’s Company; The Art of iors & youth (5–18) $2. Exhibits interpret themes and ideas related to Road, Lincoln, 781-259-8355. Museum: Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Shopping in China; Carved By Nature: Untamed Traditions in Chinese harvard square MIT research and activities. Special exhibits: The Clipper Ship Era; Admission: $9; seniors, students & children (6–12) $6. Sculpture Decorative Art; Yin Yu Tang, the stately 16-bedroom home of a pros- www.charleshotel.com Visualizing Physics: Transforming Science Learning at MIT. Park: open sunrise to sunset, free admission. Cafe and Museum perous Chinese merchant of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911), ticketed separately: $4. Special events: Apr 20 from 10 a.m.–noon—Ikebana: Japanese Flower Arranging with Keiko Thayer, tickets $25; Apr 22 from 10 a.m.–noon—Earth Day Family Workshop: EcoArts.

Plimoth Plantation, Plymouth, Exit 4 from Route 3 Southbound, 508-746-1622. Daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission to Plantation and Mayflower II (2-day pass): $24; seniors $21; youths (6–12) $14; chil- dren (under 6) free. Plantation only: $21; youths (6–12) $12; children (under 6) free. Mayflower II only: $8; youths (6–12) $6; children (under 6) free. Accompany English colonists as they go about their daily tasks in the 1627 Pilgrim Village. Listen to stories told in period dialects of their journey and first difficult years in New England. Visit Offering a Creative Menu the home of the Hobbamock, the Pokanoket Wampanoag and step Specializing in Fresh aboard a replica of the original Mayflower. Special events: Apr 18 & 20 from 1–4 p.m.—Spin Wool Into Yarn, tickets $12; Apr 19 & 21 Seafood and Homemade from 1:30–3:30 p.m.—Connecting With Our Ancestors: A Pasta. Visit the Hyatt Wampanoag Mishoon Program for Kids, tickets $10. Harborside and Relax in Our Unique Atmosphere, The Rose Art Museum, Brandeis University, 415 South St., Enjoy the Spectacular View Waltham, 781-736-3434. Tue–Sun noon–5 p.m. Admission: $3; of the Boston Skyline and museum members and children (under 16) free. The Rose houses Brandeis’ collection of modern and contemporary art, widely recog- Taste What Boston Is nized as the finest collection of its kind in the area, with pieces by Talking About. artists including de Kooning, Johns, Rauschenberg and Warhol. Special exhibit: DreamingNow, features the works of nine artists from around the globe depicting the world of dreams through mixed mediums.

1 Hyatt Harborside Salem Witch Museum, 19 /2 Washington Square North, Salem, 101 Harborside Drive 978-744-1692. Daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $6.50; seniors $6; Boston, MA 02128 children (6–14) $4.50; group rates available. Life-size stage settings (617) 568-6060 and historically accurate narration recreate the hysteria of the infa- www.boston.hyatt.com mous Salem Witch Trials and executions of 1692. Translations avail- [email protected] able in Japanese, French, German, Italian and Spanish. Special exhibit: Witches: Evolving Perceptions.

38 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 39

SIGHTSEEING AIRPORT SPECIAL ourism AIRPORT SPECIAL DOWNTOWN TO LOGAN: $20 BACK BAY TO LOGAN: $25 ravel & T

“The Best Ride

Kindra Clineff/Mass. Office of T in Town”

SWAN Song by Katie Cunningham ou know that spring has officially arrived when the first pitch is thrown at Fenway Park, the Ystreet performers return to Faneuil Hall Marketplace and the world-famous Swan Boats begin to glide across the Public Garden Lagoon. For more than 125 years, the descendants of Robert Paget, inventor of these unique pedal-powered boats, have been ferrying tourists and locals alike around the Public Garden Lagoon with serene grace. Immortalized in such quintes- sential Boston-based children’s books as Trumpet of the Swan and Make Way for Ducklings, the paddle-wheeled Swans have grown to become a symbol of the city’s unique history and its sheer beauty. The boats, which can seat up to 20 passengers, are back in action beginning April 16. The 15-minute rides around the Lagoon depart every few minutes. And at only $2.50 for adults and $1 for kids, the Swan Boats one of the best sightseeing deals in town, offering a Your own Private Limousine and Chauffeur chance to soak up the splendorous surroundings of the Public Garden and absorb some of Beantown’s past while doing none of the legwork. Refer to listing, page 44. from your downtown hotel to Logan Airport... Luxurious Lincoln Town Car Fleet Back Bay. Once a low-lying harbor basin flooded at high tide, the N I Neighborhoods 40 Back Bay was transformed by the massive landfill projects of the 19th century. The project took some 50 years to complete, but the N Courteous, Reliable Service N Sights of Interest 42 result was one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the world. Marked by its regal brownstones, tree-lined thoroughfares and D Tours and Trails 43 alphabetically arranged street names, the Back Bay is home to N Transportation to Theatres, Restaurants and Newbury Street (“the East Coast’s own Rodeo Drive”), Copley the Casinos E Cambridge 44 Square and the Boston Public Library.

X Wildlife 45 Beacon Hill. The Hub’s reputation as one of the most European of N Shopping and Sightseeing Tours American cities is most likely earned by the neighborhood of Beacon Hill. Louisburg Square takes you back to London circa 1600, Tours include Cambridge, Concord and Lexington, and the area’s narrow cobblestone streets, brownstones and gas-lit Salem, Plymouth, Newport,Cape Cod and Cape Ann NEIGHBORHOODS streetlamps all add to its “old world” charm. Beacon Hill boasts the quaint shops of Charles Street, the nearby Boston Common and the Boston Proper, the area visitors frequent the Massachusetts State House with its eye-catching golden dome. Equally attractive rates from hotels outside of most, is defined by seven adjoining communi- ties, many of which were created out of the Brookline. The birthplace of former President John F. Kennedy, this Boston to the Logan airport. All Major Credit Cards Accepted landfill projects of the 1800s: Back Bay, Beacon Green Line-accessible borough, which is practically part of Boston, Hill, Chinatown, the Fenway, the Financial has also spawned such prominent personalities as Mike Wallace of District, the North End and the South End. But “60 Minutes” fame and late night talk show kingpin Conan O’Brien. the city’s limits stretch out to include several It is also home to the art-house movie palace Coolidge Corner more residential neighborhoods with unique cul- Theatre, a multitude of diverse dining options and bucolic Larz tures and personalities of their own. And just Anderson Park, which contains an auto museum. north of the Charles River, “T”-accessible from Boston, are the cities of Cambridge and Cambridge. This city on the other side of the Charles River is home Boston Town Car Somerville, which teem with academia, culture to two world-renowned institutions of higher learning: Harvard and entertainment options that rival those of the University, the oldest college in the country, and the Massachusetts For Reservations, call (617) 782-4000 Hub. The following is a summary of some of Institute of Technology. A bastion of American liberalism, Cambridge Greater Boston’s most prominent areas. is also known for its diverse squares—Harvard, Central, Kendall, [email protected] Toll Free (888) 765-LIMO 40 PANORAMA SIGHTSEEING Porter and Inman—which boast a flock of cultural, historic, shop- South Boston. “Southie,” as this neighborhood is commonly called, p.m.; Tue & Thu at 6 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 11 a.m. The first publicly Harrison Gray Otis House, 141 Cambridge St., 617-227-3956. ping and dining attractions. is a community bordered by Boston Harbor, the Financial District supported municipal library in the world hosts one million visitors Tours: Wed–Sun 11 a.m.–4:30 p.m. every 30 minutes. Admission: and Dorchester. The popular recreational spot Castle Island is home a year who come to view this architectural masterpiece and its $8; seniors $4; students $2.50; free for kids, Historic New Charlestown. This neighborhood’s legacy dates back to the to historic Fort Independence. The Fort Point Channel area is known collection of more than five million books. Film festivals, exhibits England members and Boston residents. Built in 1796 for Revolutionary War, when it was the site of the Battle of Bunker Hill. as an artists’ enclave and is also home to the Boston Children’s and children’s programs run throughout the year. Harrison Gray Otis and his wife, Sally, this grand mansion is a The battle is memorialized by the Bunker Hill Monument, a tower- Museum. The fast-developing Seaport District, including Fish Pier, brilliant example of high-style Federal elegance. Tours offer ing white obelisk overlooking the harbor. Charlestown also hosts contains seafood restaurants, the World Trade Center Boston and the Bunker Hill Pavilion, Boston National Historical Park Visitors insight into the social, business and family life of the post- the U.S.S. Constitution, which is docked at the Boston National newly completed Boston Convention and Exhibition Center. But the Center, Charlestown, 617-242-5601. Located yards from the Revolution American elite. Historical Park. Long considered an insular Irish community, heart of “Southie” is its boisterous Irish community, which hosts a U.S.S. Constitution. Visitor center and bookstore open daily 9 Charlestown has grown more diverse thanks to real estate devel- renowned annual St. Patrick’s Day parade along Broadway. a.m.–5 p.m. Monument open daily from 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Free John Hancock Tower, 200 Clarendon St., 617-572-6429. Rising opers and the opening of several popular bars and restaurants, admission. Check out “Whites of Their Eyes,” a dramatic multime- 62 stories into the sky, this I.M. Pei-designed, sliver-of-glass sky- such as Todd English’s landmark eatery, Olives. South End. Every city has a neighborhood that is a locus for cut- dia presentation of the Battle of Bunker Hill, one of the first major scraper is New England’s tallest building and is considered by ting-edge art and culture. In New York, it’s SoHo. In San Francisco, battles of the Revolution. Or climb the nearby Bunker Hill many to be one of the most beautiful skyscrapers in the world. Chinatown. Once regarded as a pale version of the Chinatowns in it’s the Haight. In Boston, it’s the South End. Brimming with art gal- Monument, a 221-foot granite obelisk. The building houses the headquarters of its namesake, insurance New York and San Francisco, Boston’s focal point for Asian and leries, unique shops, bookstores and some of the hottest restau- giant John Hancock Financial. Unfortunately, the observatory on Asian-American culture contains a wealth of shops selling Asian rants in the city, the South End is definitely where it’s at. Charles River Esplanade, 617-635-4305. This tree-lined park the 60th floor was closed after September 11, 2001. imports and groceries, as well as countless eateries offering along the Charles River basin is a popular spot for leisurely strolls regional cuisine and late hours, making it one of the best places to and picnics as well as recreational activities. Sports enthusiasts The Mary Baker Eddy Library, 200 Mass. Ave., 617-450-7000. go for an after-midnight meal. SIGHTS OF INTEREST are drawn to the 17-mile biking, jogging and walking path Open Tue–Sun from 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Thu & Fri ’til 9 p.m. between the Museum of Science and Watertown, while others Admission: $5; seniors, students with ID and youth (6–17) $3; Downtown/Financial District. One of Boston’s most active urban Adams National Historical Park, 1250 Hancock St., Quincy, flock to the water to sail, windsurf, canoe or kayak. The nearby children (under 6) and members free. Home to the world-famous centers, this area encompasses Government Center, the Financial eight miles south of Boston, 617-770-1175. Take the “T” to the DCR Hatch Shell frequently hosts concerts and films, as well as Mapparium, a three-story stained-glass globe depicting the world District, Downtown Crossing and the newly dubbed Ladder District, Quincy Center stop on the Red Line. Visitor Center is open Tue–Fri the famous Boston Pops concerts. as it existed in 1934, which guests can walk through. Visitors to an area known for its wide array of bars and restaurants that cater from 10 a.m.–4 p.m., beginning Apr 19 daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. the library can follow Mary Baker Eddy’s quest for insight and to the after-work and pre-theater crowds. Downtown Crossing is a Trolley tours begin Apr 19: depart every 30 minutes from 9:15 Custom House Tower, 3 McKinley Square, 617-310-6300. Free embark on one of their own through interactive exhibits in the blend of commerce and culture, with street vendors and shopping a.m.–3:15 p.m. Tickets: $5; children (under 16) free. This oft-over- historical tours daily at 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Tours may be cancelled Quest Gallery, or try out a “desk job” at the Pulitzer Prize-winning at department stores like Macy’s and the world-famous Filene’s looked historical gem offers insight into the lives of U.S. presidents due to weather conditions, call ahead. Boston’s first skyscraper, Christian Science Monitor. Basement standing alongside historical sites such as the Old South John Adams and son John Quincy Adams. Tours stop at the birth- the Custom House stands high over Boston Harbor as one of the Meeting House and Old City Hall. Government Center, home to the places of both presidents, as well as “The Old House,” which was city’s most impressive landmarks. Crowned by its distinctive clock New England Holocaust Memorial, Congress Street near current City Hall and its surrounding Plaza, lies adjacent to historic home to five generations of the Adams family. Stop by the Visitor tower and restored with modern luxuries, the building epitomizes Faneuil Hall. This haunting memorial features six luminous glass Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Center to register and purchase tickets. Special events: Apr 18— the preservation of Boston’s historic architecture. Today, the towers etched with the six million prisoner numbers of those who Patriots Day events; Apr 19—Historic homes open for season. Marriott Corporation operates this landmark. perished in the Holocaust. Visitors can walk under the towers and The Fenway. Named for the Fens, the green parkland that winds read the dramatic stories of the victims and heroes of this tremen- its way through the neighborhood, the Fenway is home to Fenway Arnold Arboretum, 125 Arborway, Jamaica Plain, 617-524-1718. Emerald Necklace, parks throughout Boston, 617-635-7487. dous human tragedy. Park, the legendary ballpark that hosts Beantown’s beloved Red Grounds open year-round, sunrise to sunset. Free admission. Visitor Free guided tours by appointment only. This world-famous string Sox. It is also a mecca of clubs (on Lansdowne Street), sports bars Center open Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; Sun of parks that runs through the city was the brainchild of The Skywalk Observatory at the Prudential Center, 617- and restaurants. Several of the city’s prominent cultural institutions, noon–4 p.m. This 265-acre tree sanctuary designed by Emerald renowned landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, and took 859-0648. Open daily 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Skywalk kiosk closes at 6 including the Museum of Fine Arts, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Necklace architect Frederick Law Olmsted opened in 1872. Now a almost 20 years to complete. The six green spaces—Back Bay p.m. Admission (including a headset audio tour of points of inter- Museum and Symphony Hall, are located nearby. National Historic Landmark, the arboretum and its gardens contain Fens, Riverway, Olmsted Park, Jamaica Pond, Arnold Arboretum est): $9.50; seniors $7; children (under 12) $6.50. Observatory more than 7,000 varieties of trees, shrubs and flowers, all labeled and Franklin Park—stretch five miles from the Charles River to may be closed due to weather conditions, please call ahead. From Jamaica Plain. One of the city’s most diverse areas, “J.P.” con- for your perusal. Dorchester and make up over 1,000 acres of parkland. The neck- the 50th floor of the Prudential Tower, you can look down on the tains thriving Latin-American, African-American, Irish and gay com- lace is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Although best of Boston: the historic Back Bay, Boston Harbor and the 1 munities and is home to Jamaica Pond and Arnold Arboretum, two Boston Athenaeum, 10 ⁄2 Beacon St., 617-227-0270. Member not officially part of the Emerald Necklace, Boston Common and Charles River. It’s the only place in Boston offering a 360-degree of the city’s finest green spaces. Once a “country resort” area for hours: Tue–Fri 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m., Mon ’til 8 p.m. Public tours: Tue & the Public Garden are sometimes considered the starting points, view. On a clear day, you can see all the way to New Hampshire Boston Brahmins, the neighborhood boasts striking 19th-century Thu at 3 p.m. Reservations required. One of the oldest and most and are connected to the Necklace by the Commonwealth and Vermont. SEE LOCATOR #13 ON CENTER MAP. mansions on the streets closest to the Pond and eclectic shops and distinguished private libraries in the United States, the Athenaeum Avenue Mall. restaurants along Centre Street. was founded in 1807. For nearly half a century, it was the unchal- Trinity Church, Copley Square, 617-536-0944. Open daily from lenged center of intellectual life in Boston, and by 1851 it had The First Church of Christ Scientist, 175 Huntington Ave., 8 a.m.–6 p.m.; tours available. Built in 1877, this house of wor- North End. Boston’s own “Little Italy,” the North End’s uniquely become one of the five largest libraries in the country. 617-450-3790. Services: Sun at 10 a.m. and 7 p.m., Wed at noon ship, a combination of Victorian, Gothic and French Romanesque European character is exemplified by narrow streets, cobblestone and 7:30 p.m. The original Mother Church built in 1894 is at the styles, is one of the great masterpieces of American church archi- sidewalks and brick rowhouses. Although gentrification has Boston Public Garden, bordered by Arlington, Charles, Beacon heart of the Christian Science Center, situated on 14 acres in the tecture. The building is located in Copley Square adjacent to the changed the face of the neighborhood, the North End is still home and Boylston streets. Open daily dawn to dusk. Established in Back Bay. The Romanesque structure is made from New I.M. Pei-designed John Hancock Tower, itself a contemporary to the best Italian dining in the city. The Old North Church, the Paul 1837, the Public Garden is the nation’s first public botanical gar- Hampshire granite with stained glass windows illustrating Biblical architectural masterpiece. The church is currently in the midst of a Revere House and Copp’s Hill Burial Ground—all of which are den. Its 24 acres are filled with scenic and diverse greenery, as events. Also see listing for the Mary Baker Eddy Library. $53 million preservation initiative. stops on the Freedom Trail—are located here. well as sculptures, including one that commemorates the popular children’s book Make Way for Ducklings. Other fixtures include the Forest Hills Cemetery, 95 Forest Hills Ave., 617-524-0128. Somerville. Just northeast of Cambridge, the city of Somerville Lagoon, home to the famed Swan Boats from April through Labor Open daily from dawn to dusk. Created in 1848, this cemetery TOURS AND TRAILS has long attracted students, artists and musicians with its low Day, and a suspension bridge designed as a miniature replica of serves as the final resting place of Eugene O’Neill, Anne Sexton, rents, proximity to Tufts and Harvard universities and easy access the Brooklyn Bridge. e.e. cummings, William Lloyd Garrison and former Boston Celtic Boston Art Tours, 617-732-3920. Call for full tour schedule. to the “T,” adding a creative flair to this traditionally blue-collar Reggie Lewis. The 275 acres of twisting paths also contain sculp- Boston Art Tours offers various excursions to area museums and area. Activity focuses around two commercial centers, Union and Boston Public Library, 700 Boylston St., Copley Square, 617- tural treasures, an arboretum, a “library” of life stories and an galleries that highlight different historical time periods. Families Davis squares, which feature a wide array of ethnic restaurants, 536-5400. Mon–Thu 9 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri & Sat ’til 5 p.m.; Sun 1–5 open-air museum. Special event: Apr 24 at 2 p.m.—Stories may choose from age-appropriate tours offering lively descriptions cafes, galleries and shops. p.m. Free admission. Art & Architecture tours offered Mon at 2:30 Behind the Stone: A Walking Tour with Al Maze, tickets $8. of works to help further the understanding of art.

42 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 43 SIGHTSEEING Boston Bike Tour, 617-308-5902. Tours: Mon & Wed–Sat at two-hour journey showcases Boston as the birthplace of such Cambridge Common/Old Burying Ground. A grazing pasture Tory Row (Brattle Street). One of the nation’s most beautiful res- 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.; Sun feature tour from 11 a.m.–3 p.m. innovations as the telephone, the Internet and modern surgery. and cemetery for Puritan Newtowne, as well as a favorite meeting idential streets, Tory Row is the site of Loyalist mansions and their Tickets: $18, Sun tour $25. Rentals: $5 an hour; $25 per day. Call Board a luxury motorcoach to visit Boston’s hidden historical treas- spot for public figures and a tent site for the Continental Army. Early elegant neighbors from every period of American architecture. for more informaton. Tours make stops at various sites while your ures, including the MIT Museum, Harvard Medical School and the college presidents and town residents were buried in “God’s Acre” guide shares history and pokes playful fun at the city and its her- Ether Dome at Mass General Hospital. DVD program included. across from the Common. itage. Tours leave from the Boston Common Visitor Center at Park WILDLIFE Street Station (bikes and equipment are provided). The Literary Trail, departing from the Omni Parker House, 60 Christ Church. This 1761 Tory house of worship was utilized as a School St., 617-350-0358. Guided tours: 2nd Sat of every month at Colonial barracks during the American Revolution. Franklin Park Zoo, One Franklin Park Road, Franklin Park, 617- Black Heritage Trail, 617-742-5415. Tours: Mon–Sat at 10 a.m., 9 a.m., rain or shine. Tickets: $30; children (under 12) $26. Group 541-LION. Open Mon–Fri from 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Sat & Sun ’til 6 noon and 2 p.m. Call at least 24 hours in advance for reservations. tours also available. Tickets include entrance to all museums on the First Church Unitarian/Universalist. Harvard College provided p.m. Admission: $9.50; seniors $8; children (2–15) $5; children A guided tour through the north side of Beacon Hill, including the trail. This 20-mile tour includes stops at the Boston Athenaeum; the the pews for its students in this 1833 building erected for the then- (under 2) free. Home to more than 210 species, including many homes of politicians and entrepreneurs; the African Meeting House, Omni Parker House; Cambridge’s Longfellow House; the Concord newly founded Unitarian Church. endangered animals. Roam the Australian Outback Trail with walla- built in 1806; the oldest standing house built by an African- Museum, which houses Ralph Waldo Emerson’s study; and famed bies and kangaroos; explore the Tropical Forest and see the goril- American (1797); and the home of Lewis and Harriet Hayden, who Walden Pond. Harvard and Radcliffe Yards. The centers of two institutions las; marvel at the lions at Kalahari Kingdom; and visit zebras, harbored runaway slaves. Maps are available at the Museum of that have played major educational roles since Harvard’s founding ostriches, ibex and wildebeests at Serengeti Crossing. Special Afro-American History. North End Market Tour, 64 Cross St., take the T to Haymarket, in 1636. event: Apr 23 from 11 a.m.–3 p.m.—Earth Day celebration. 617-523-6032. www.northendmarkettours.com. Wed & Sat 10 Boston Duck Tours, Prudential Center and Museum of Science. a.m.–1 p.m. and 2–5 p.m.; Fri 10 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3–6 p.m. Harvard Square/Old Cambridge. The center of Cambridge New England Aquarium, Central Wharf, 617-973-5200. Open www.bostonducktours.com. Tours: seven days a week, 9 a.m. ’til Reservations required. Custom tours for groups available. Tickets: activity since the 17th century, the Square is home to Harvard Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–5 p.m.; Sat & Sun 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Admission: one hour before sunset. Tickets: $25; seniors, students & military $49 per person. Michele Topor, an authority on Italian cuisine and University, historic buildings, bookstores, cafes, restaurants $15.95; seniors $13.95; children (3–11) $8.95; children (under 3) $22; children (3–11) $16; (under 3) $3; special needs $10. Group culture, hosts award-winning culinary walking tours through one of and shops. free. Refer to Currently section under Film for IMAX theater listings. discounts available. Experience the city in an amazing vehicle that the nation’s oldest Italian-American communities. Combination ticket prices available. Dedicated to advancing knowl- rides on land and water. The 80-minute tour visits most of Boston’s Mount Auburn Cemetery, 580 Mount Auburn St., Cambridge, edge of the world of water, this outstanding aquatic zoo features a famous sights. And just when you think you’ve seen it all, your Old Town Trolley Tour of Boston, 617-269-7010. Departs every 617-547-7105. Open daily from 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Founded in 1831 by 187,000-gallon Giant Ocean Tank containing a Caribbean coral reef Duck splashes into the Charles River for a spectacular water view. 15–20 minutes daily from 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Tickets: $26; seniors & the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, Mount Auburn was the first with sharks, sea turtles, moray eels and other aquatic life. Be sure students $24; children (under 12) free. With 16 stops throughout landscaped cemetery in the country. Many prominent Americans to check out the popular penguin habitat. Special exhibit: Amazing Boston Irish Heritage Trail, various sites Downtown and in the the city, including the New England Aquarium, U.S.S. Constitution are buried here, including Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Isabella Jellies. The adjacent Simons 3D IMAX Theater is the first theater of Back Bay, 617-696-9880. Maps available at Boston Common and Museum, the Trolley Stop Store on the corner of South Charles and Stewart Gardner and Winslow Homer. The cemetery is also an its kind in the Boston area. Refer to Film in Currently for complete Prudential Visitor Information Centers. www.irishheritage Boylston streets, and most major hotels (see your concierge), arboretum, sculpture garden and wildlife sanctuary. IMAX theater listings and Kids Corner for special events. trail.com. A self-guided, three-mile walking tour that covers 300 patrons can enjoy a 100-minute, fully narrated sightseeing tour of years of history as it takes you through Boston’s downtown, North more than 100 points of interest aboard the orange-and-green, all- End, Beacon Hill and Back Bay neighborhoods. Learn about famous weather trolley. politicians, artists and war heroes and the rich tradition of rebellion, leadership and triumph that personifies the Boston Irish. Photo Walks, 617-851-2273. Tours: daily at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. Call for reservations and departure locations. Tickets: $25; children Fenway Park Tours, 4 Yawkey Way, 617-226-6666. Tours daily (under 12) $15. Explore Boston on a photographic journey that each hour from 9 a.m.–4 p.m. or until three hours before game time. reveals the scenic treasures of the Public Garden, Beacon Hill, the Tickets: $12; seniors $11; children (under 14) $10. Tours originate at Freedom Trail and the waterfront. Each walking tour provides fasci- the Souvenir Store located on Yawkey Way across from Service Gate nating historical information and simple, creative tips on composing D, rain or shine. Have you dreamt of walking across the field where artistic photographs of area attractions. Red Sox legends spent their glory days? This tour offers a behind- the-scenes look at America’s oldest active Major League ballpark, Samuel Adams Brewery Tour: Drink in a Little History, 30 including a glimpse behind the famed “Green Monster.” Germania St., Jamaica Plain, 617-368-5080. Tours: Thu at 2 p.m.; Fri at 2 and 5:30 p.m.; Sat at noon, 1 and 2 p.m.; one-hour tours The Freedom Trail Foundation’s Freedom Trail Players, include samples (ID required). Tickets: $2; donation given to a local departing from the Visitor Center on Boston Common, 617-357- charity. Learn about the art of brewing beer and taste the rich malts 8300. Tours daily at 11 a.m., noon and 1 p.m. Tickets: $12; chil- and spicy hops on this tour of the original Samuel Adams brewery. dren (12 and under) $6. Explore the Freedom Trail with costumed actors portraying famous patriots such as James Otis, Abigail Swan Boats, Public Garden Lagoon, 617-522-1966. Rides: daily Adams and William Dawes in this 90-minute tour. Stops include the beginning Apr 16 from 10 a.m.–4 p.m., weather permitting. Park Street Church, the Boston Massacre Site, the Old State House Tickets: $2.50, children (2–15) $1. One of Boston’s oldest and most and Faneuil Hall. treasured traditions, these pedal-powered boats glide around the Public Garden and under the smallest suspension bridge in the Harpoon Brewery Tour, 306 Northern Ave., 1-888-HARPOON ext. world. Refer to story, page 40. 522. Tours: Tue–Sat at 3 p.m.; Fri & Sat at 1 and 3 p.m. Free admission. This waterfront institution is one of Boston’s only micro- breweries. Visitors gather at the Tap Room, which overlooks the CAMBRIDGE brewery, for 30- to 45-minute tours of the plant. Due to limited parking, it is best to take the Red The Innovation Odyssey, departing from 28 State St. (at 2 p.m.), Line when traveling to Harvard, Central or Kendall free shuttle from Museum of Science (at 1:45 p.m.), 617-350- squares. The Cambridge Discovery Booth located 0358. Tours: 2nd Sat of every month at 2 p.m. Tickets: $25; stu- at the Harvard Square “T” entrance provides addi- dents (with ID) $15; children (under 10) $10; family rate $50. This tional information.

44 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 45 FREEDOM TRAIL THE REDCOATS ARE church was described by Henry James as “the most interest- COMING—Men costumed ing mass of brick and mortar in America.” THE as British loyalists march in formation along the Freedom Trail near Faneuil Hall. Old Granary Burying Ground (4). Tremont Street next to FREEDOM Park Street Church, 617-635-7389. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. This historic cemetery, formerly the town granary, is the TRAIL The Freedom Trail begins at the final resting place of John Hancock, Paul Revere, Robert Treat Boston Common Information Paine, Samuel Adams, Peter Faneuil, James Otis and the vic- Kiosk where you can obtain a tims of the Boston Massacre. A stone inscribed “Mary free guide or rent a handheld Goose” (a.k.a. Elizabeth Goose) allegedly marks the grave of self-guided audio tour com- Mother Goose. plete with sound effects and anecdotes for $15, $12 for King’s Chapel and Burying Ground (5). Tremont and each additional adult and $10 School streets, 617-227-2155. Open Mon & Fri 10 a.m.–2 for children. Free 90-minute, p.m., Sat 9–4 p.m., Sun 1–3 p.m. Services: Sun at 11 a.m., park ranger-guided tours begin Wed at 12:15 p.m. Burying Ground open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. April 16 and depart from the Tours: Mon and Thu–Sat 9:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.; Tue and Boston National Historical Park Wed 1–4 p.m. Visitors are reminded that King’s Chapel is a Visitors Center at the corner of house of worship. The chapel was established in 1687 as the State and Devonshire streets, first Anglican congregation in Boston. The second chapel, Mon–Fri at 2 p.m., Sat & Sun at built in 1754, became the first Unitarian church in America 10 & 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. First after the Revolution. come, first serve. Arrive 30 minutes prior to tour. Call Site of the first public school and Ben Franklin’s stat- 617-242-5642 for more infor- ue (6). On School Street, marked by a column and com- mation. The number accompa- memorative plaque. On April 13, 1635 the town voted to nying each site listed below establish the first public school in the country (the forerunner refers to the site’s location as of the Boston Latin School). Nearby is Benjamin Franklin’s shown on Panorama’s map statue, built in 1856, the first portrait-statue erected in the (see facing page). United States.

Boston Common (1). Set aside in Site of the Old Corner Bookstore (7). School and 1634 as a military training field and Washington streets, 617-367-4000. Constructed as an grazing pasture, the Common is the apothecary in 1718, the ground floor was later used as a bookstore Paul Revere House (12). 19 North Square, Hanover Street, rail Foundation oldest public park in America. The park that became the center of literary Boston and the meeting place of 617-523-2338. Open daily 9:30 a.m.–4:15 p.m., beginning served as quarters for British as well such notables as Emerson, Hawthorne, Longfellow and Thoreau. Apr 15 ’til 5:15 p.m. Admission: $3; students & seniors with as Colonial troops, and housed Civil I.D. $2; children (5–17) $1; (under 5) free. The oldest home in War regiments. The British Army set Old South Meeting House (8). 310 Washington St., 617- Boston, built about 1680, was occupied by Paul Revere from

© The Freedom T out for the start of the Revolutionary 482-6439. Open daily 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students & 1770 to 1800. Boston’s own “yellow brick road” is actually a red brick line War from what is now Park Square. seniors $4; children (6–18) $1; children (under 6) free. This build- ing housed many town meetings, the most famous of which trig- Old North Church (13). 193 Salem St., 617-523-6676. Open weaving through the city and connecting 16 key historic sites. The State House (2). Beacon Street, gered the Boston Tea Party. Permanent exhibit: Voices of Protest. daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Sun services at 9 and 11 a.m. Known as Each one tells a piece of the dramatic story of America’s top of Beacon Hill facing Boston Christ Church and erected in 1723, this is Boston’s oldest standing birth. These sites are not amusement park replicas; they are Common, 617-727-3676. Open Old State House (9). Corner of Washington and State streets, church, where two lanterns were hung on April 18, 1775, signaling the actual places where Revolutionary War-era patriots like Mon–Fri 10 a.m.–5 p.m., except holi- 617-720-3292. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: $5; students the Redcoats’ departure by sea for Lexington and Concord. days. Guided tours Mon–Fri 10 & seniors $4; children (6–18) $1; children (under 6) free. Built in Paul Revere and John Adams once gathered. The Hub’s a.m.–3:30 p.m. The famous golden 1713, this seat of colonial government was the center of activity Copp’s Hill Burial Ground (14). Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Hull most famous attraction, the Freedom Trail is walked by some dome of the State House marks the for such patriots as John Hancock, and Samuel and John Adams. Street. Set out in 1660, Copp’s Hill was Boston’s second cemetery. three million visitors every year. The two-and-a-half-mile red government seat of the Common- It was from the east balcony that the Declaration of Independence Many remarkable people are interred here, including Increase wealth of Massachusetts. The corner- was first read in Boston. Mather, his son Cotton, Cotton’s son Samuel Mather and Edmund brick pathway unites historic markers from the State House, stone was laid by Samuel Adams, and Hartt, builder of the U.S.S. Constitution. with its brilliant gold dome, to the 204-year-old U.S.S. the building stands on land bought Boston Massacre Site (10). State Street in front of the Old State Constitution, a.k.a. “Old Ironsides.” In between, there’s the from John Hancock. The red brick House. At the next intersection below the State House, a ring of Bunker Hill Monument (15). Breed’s Hill, Charlestown, 617- portion was designed by the leg- cobblestones marks the site of the clash between a jeering Boston 242-5641. Climb the monument from 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Lodge Old Granary Burying Ground, the final resting place for endary architect Charles Bulfinch. crowd and a British guard of nine soldiers on March 5,1770. and museum open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. The site of the historic American patriots like John Hancock, Paul Revere and battle of June 1775. James Otis; the Old South Meeting House and Faneuil Hall, Park Street Church (3). Corner of Faneuil Hall (11). Merchants Row and Faneuil Hall Square, 617- where some of the most fiery debates of the Revolution took Park and Tremont streets, 617-523- 523-1300. Open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Historical talks given daily U.S.S. Constitution (16). Charlestown Navy Yard, Charlestown, 3383. Sunday services at 8:30 & 11 every half hour 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Military museum open 617-242-5670. Free guided tours Thu–Sun from 10:30 a.m.–3:30 place; and the Old North Church, where two lanterns were a.m. and 4 & 6 p.m. Morning services Mon–Fri 9 a.m.–3:30 p.m. “The Cradle of Liberty” combines in p.m. This 44-gun frigate is the oldest commissioned warship in hung to signal Paul Revere during his famous midnight ride. are traditional, evening services are one building a free enterprise market on the first floor with a free the world. The U.S.S. Constitution Museum, located adjacent to contemporary. Built in 1809, this marketplace for the exchange of ideas upstairs. the ship, is open daily from 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Call 617-426-1812.

46 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 47 ESTAURANT GUIDE R HIGH CHIPS I American 49 Chinese 50 5s:AHOY! Eastern Mediterranean 50 Who knew that Massachusetts is French/French-American 51 home to one of the country’s most N French Country 52 ingenious inventions? Formerly Indian 52 known as the Toll House Cookie, International 52 the chocolate chip cookie was D Irish 53 born at a New Bedford inn in Italian 54 1930. Seventy-five years later, its Mediterranean 55 gooey goodness is served fresh Museum Dining 56 at dozens of bakeries in Boston and E New England 56 around the world. Indulge your senses at Seafood 56 these local neighborhood favorites. Southern 59 Southwestern 59 BOSTON CHIPYARD, 257 Quincy Market, X Steakhouses 59 1 617-742-9537. A Quincy Market meal is not complete without a trip to this sweet shop, which was founded by two brothers from Newport, HEART of Italy by Christopher Wallenberg AMERICAN California. Wait for the cookies fresh out of the oven for a truly divine experience. UMBRIA 295 Franklin St., 617-338-1000 Apropos, Sheraton Boston, 39 Dalton St., 617-375-6500. Drawing MIKE’S PASTRY, 300 Hanover St., 617-742- nce upon a time, if you wanted great Italian food, you headed straight to the North End. But its influences from American regional cuisine with a strong New England flair, the menu at Apropos offers hearty, satisfying dishes 3050. now there are celebrated Italian eateries all over Boston. One such newcomer to the dining 2 Aside from its acclaimed cannolis, this O ranging from pan-roasted Chilean sea bass to grilled New York sirloin famous North End pastry shop offers over 50 scene, Umbria, focuses on the oft-overlooked “green heart of Italy.” Though it isn’t as well-known and herbed roasted chicken. The menu, created by executive chef or as well-trodded as nearby Tuscany, the Umbria region possesses a distinct culinary palate. Joseph Nartowicz, exudes the flavors of Boston. B, L, D, SB. $$$ cookie varieties. Have a seat at the Italian-style Umbrian cuisine, like much Italian cooking, is prepared with pure, rustic simplicity, focusing on a café and enjoy a cappuccino while munching Aura, Seaport Hotel, One Seaport Lane, 617-385-4300. Aura’s sea- on scrumptious specialties such as the choco- handful of flavorful ingredients like robust meats that pull together, not overwhelm, each dish. sonal menus showcase chef John Merrill’s passion for using fresh, Umbria the restaurant is a chic, 21st century take on an old-school Italian trattoria, with an expan- local ingredients in his recipes. Chef Merrill partners with local farm- late Florentine and chocolate rainbow. ers and fishermen to select freshly harvested vegetables, seafood sive interior that includes an open kitchen, exposed brick walls and ceiling beams, and French FINALE, One Columbus Ave., 617-423-3184; that is just off the boat and specially aged meats and cheeses to cre- doors that open up during summer. As for those potent ingredients, executive chef Marisa Iocco ate his award-winning meals. B, L, D, SB. $$$ 3other location. This swank “desserterie” offers has partnered with a farm in Monterosello to supply her with the freshest goods. With spring final- an exquisite array of desserts and light appe- ly arriving, appetizers like slow-braised octopus and wild boar sausage have given way to grilled *Avenue One, Hyatt Regency, Financial District, 1 Ave. de Lafayette, tizers, leaving little need to fuss with entrees. 617-422-5579. Enjoy Boston’s most extensive fondue menu in a calamari stuffed with house-cured spicy pork sausage, as well as a plate of assorted cheeses relaxed atmosphere. Live jazz every Thu. B, L, D, C. $$ Cookie options include triple chocolate, choco- and homemade salamis paired with poached spicy pears. For entrees, try the eye-opening lob- late chip walnut and white chocolate cranberry. ster brodetto, stuffed with crab meat and farro—a popular Mediterranean grain—and drowned in *Cheers, 84 Beacon St., 617-227-9605. Also: Faneuil Hall BOVA’S BAKERY, 134 Salem St., 617-523- a mouth-watering broth. The fresh pastas, made on premises, include Umbria’s signature fettuc- Marketplace, 617-227-0150. Both the original Beacon Hill and Faneuil Hall locations offer a mouthwatering selection of traditional 5601. Located in the North End, this 24-hour, celle Amatricana, wide linguini tossed with house-cured pancetta, sweet onions and a light toma- 4 fare and an abundant beverage selection, including their award-win- family-run bakery is a haven for night owls and to sauce. And don’t miss the divine desserts by one of Boston’s best pastry chefs, Lee Napoli. ning Bloody Mary and a variety of draft beers. Live entertainment is offered Thu–Sat nights. Pick up officially licensed Cheers merchan- early birds. Complement a late night calzone dise at the gift shop. L, D, C, LS. $ with your choice of freshly baked cookies, B = Breakfast cream puffs and other Italian delicacies. AVERAGE PRICE OF DINNER ENTREES *Dick’s Last Resort, Prudential Center, 55 Huntington Ave., 617- L = Lunch $— Most entrees less than $12 267-8080. This is the joint your mama warned you about. Dick’s FLOUR BAKERY & CAFE, 1597 Washington D = Dinner serves buckets of barbecue pork ribs and chicken, as well as lobster, $$ — Most entrees $12–18 5St., 617-267-4300. This highly praised South BR = Brunch $$$ — Most entrees $19–25 shrimp and crab legs, steak and salads. There are also 74 kinds of SB = Sunday Brunch $$$$ — Most entrees more than $25 beer. Dick’s has SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m., which includes Belgian waffles, End bakery serves treats fresh out of the oven. C=Cocktails Many restaurants offer a wide range of entrees and prices; omelets, crab cake Benedict, breakfast burritos, fresh fruit and a Try the Schraffenberger chocolate chip or the LS = Late Supper therefore, the classifications are only approximations. make-your-own Bloody Mary bar. Live music, no cover, no dress Schraffenberger double chocolate for the ulti- VP = Valet Parking Restaurants listed accept major credit cards unless code and definitely no class. Open daily, Dick’s Last Resort is billed as “The Shame of Boston.” L 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m.; D Sun–Thu 4 mate cookie-munching experience. * = Entertainment otherwise specified. p.m.–midnight, Fri & Sat ’til 1 a.m. www.dickslastresort.com $$ —Marketa Hulpachova

48 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 49

RESTAURANT GUIDE The Federalist, Fifteen Beacon Hotel, 15 Beacon St., 617-670- under the stars on Fri & Sat evenings. D, LS, SB. Reservations FRENCH/FRENCH-AMERICAN Clio, The Eliot Hotel, 370-A Commonwealth Ave., 617-536-7200. 2515. The menu at this powerbrokers’ haven offers artistic imagina- recommended. $$$ James Beard Award-winning chef Ken Oringer serves up French- tion in the preparation of dishes ranging from Colorado rack of lamb Aujourd’hui, Four Seasons Hotel Boston, 200 Boylston St., 617- American fare with some striking Asian influences in a sleek, sophis- to skillet-roasted French Dover sole, in an atmosphere that evokes Stephanie’s on Newbury, 190 Newbury St., 617-236-0990. 351-2037. Featuring an ambiance of contemporary elegance with ticated atmosphere that’s styled after a Parisian supper club. Bacon- the stately traditions of the world’s most private clubs. A rooftop Recommended by The New York Times, chef/owner Stephanie the Public Garden as a backdrop, this eatery is one of only two wrapped foie gras, caramelized swordfish au poivre and ginger- herb garden and in-kitchen fish tanks help to ensure culinary per- Sidell’s eatery showcases sophisticated American cooking, including restaurants in the state to receive the AAA Five Diamond Award. With glazed oxtail keep customers coming back for more. D. $$$$ fection. B, D, Sat & SB, C, LS. $$$$ salads, grilled fish chicken and comfort food, such as meatloaf. its recent re-opening and new look, Aujourd’hui welcomes chef de Casual elegance at its best with sidewalk cafe, club-like bar and cuisine Jerome Legras, whose debut menu of modern French cuisine Hamersley’s Bistro, 533 Tremont St., 617-423-2700. This pioneer- Finale, One Columbus Ave., behind the Four Seasons Hotel, 617- skylit dining space. Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–10 uses the freshest regional ingredients. To complement the flavors, ing French-American classic, helmed by the husband and wife team 423-3184; 30 Dunster St., Harvard Sq., Cambridge, 617-441-9797. p.m. L, D, SB 10 a.m.–3 p.m., C, VP Tue–Sat evenings. $$$ sommelier Ted Davidson offers an award-winning selection of wine of Gordon and Fiona Hamersley, first put the South End dining scene One of the only dessert restaurants in America, Finale features items from an 1,800-bottle library. Reservations recommended. D Mon–Sat on the map. Try the duck confit or the roast chicken with garlic, lemon like the caramel carnivale and its signature “molten chocolate Theatre Cafe, Radisson Hotel, 200 Stuart St., 617-574-2752. 5:30–10:30 p.m., Sun 6–10 p.m.; SB 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. $$$$ and parsley. Long regarded as one of the city’s top tables. D. $$$$ cake.” Chef Nicole Coady’s menu is complemented by its luscious Located in the heart of the theater district, this restaurant features drink menu of ports, champagnes, cordials and its well-known traditional American fare in a comfortable atmosphere and is a great Brasserie Jo, The Colonnade Hotel, 120 Huntington Ave., 617-425- *Julien, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617-451-1900. “Finale Favorites.” A light dinner menu is available. L & D. $$ location for pre- and post-theater dining. Seasonal outdoor dining 3240. Regional French cooking in the classic brasserie style. The The award-winning Julien offers creative contemporary French cui- and discounted parking at on-site garage is available. Open daily for “sister” of chef Jean Joho’s award-winning Chicago restaurant com- sine in a formal dining room of unparalleled elegance and intimacy. *Hard Rock Cafe, 131 Clarendon St., two blocks from Boylston St., B, L, D. $$ bines traditional favorites (coq au vin and steak frites) with unique An ideal setting for pre-theatre dining, a private business dinner or a 617-424-ROCK (7625). HRC Boston serves up the best down-home specialties (Uncle Hansi’s onion tart). Home-brewed beer, a wine list romantic celebration. D Mon–Sat 6–10 p.m. Tapas menu available at American food possible, seasoned with a healthy dose of rock ’n’ *Top of the Hub, 800 Boylston St., Prudential Center, 617-536- and desserts in the French tradition complete this Gallic experience. bar Mon–Fri 4–7 p.m. $$$$ roll. Try the infamous “Pig” sandwich, excellent burgers and chicken 1775. There is nothing like sitting 52 stories above Boston for Seasonal outdoor patio. B, L, D. $$ sandwiches. Memorabilia highlights include “The Aerosmithsonian,” dining and a spectacular view of the city. The magnificent cuisine No. 9 Park, 9 Park St., 617-742-9991. Nationally acclaimed chef the “Boston Wall of Fame,” Phish’s vacuum, Jim Morrison’s leather complements the breathtaking views. L, D, LS, C. Live jazz seven *Café Fleuri, Langham Hotel Boston, 250 Franklin St., 617-451- Barbara Lynch serves up French and Italian style dishes in a sophisti- pants and Madonna’s bustier. L, D, C, LS. $ nights a week. $$$$ 1900. Feast under the stars in Mediterranean ambiance. Enjoy what cated bistro atmosphere atop Beacon Hill. Chef Lynch has a subtle Boston magazine hails as “the best Sunday brunch in Boston” or hand in the kitchen, turning out inventive renditions of classic Italian Jer-Ne Restaurant & Bar, The Ritz-Carlton Boston Common, 12 partake in a wonderful à la carte menu featuring Mediterranean fare, and French fare such as fresh pasta and foie gras. L, D, LS. $$$$ Avery St., 617-574-7176. Chef Jason Adams sets an uncharted CHINESE regional American specialties, and authentic French pastries and course of adventure in contemporary cuisine, featuring American desserts—all within a beautiful sunlit garden atrium. B Mon–Fri Radius, 8 High St., 617-426-1234. James Beard Award-winning chef favorites, seafood and steaks, all artistically presented. The artful Chau Chow City, 83 Essex St., Chinatown, 617-338-8158; 52 6:30–11:30 a.m., Sat 7:30–11 a.m.; L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Michael Schlow churns out impeccably prepared nouveau French fare menu is created from a palette of lush local flavors. The restaurant Beach St., Chinatown, 617-426-6266. This flagship of the Chau Mon–Sat 6–10 p.m., Sun 4–10 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–1:30 p.m. $$ such as foie gras-suffused Vermont pheasant and New Zealand loin of also boasts an exhibition kitchen. B, L, D, SB, C, LS. $$$$ Chow chain features authentic Swatowese seafood dishes, such as clams in black bean sauce, lobster or crab with ginger and scallion, Locke-Ober, 3 Winter Place, 617-542-1340. Helmed by local culi- and spicy fried calamari. The service is superb, and the daily dim nary innovator Lydia Shire (Biba, Excelsior), this downtown landmark sum attracts those with adventurous palates. Also a great place for has been refurbished and restored to its former glory. The menu of an after-midnight meal. L, D, LS. $$ this Boston Brahmin bastion has been updated, but Shire has kept many of its classics, including the steak tartar and the legendary Peking Tom’s Longtang Lounge, 25 Kingston St., 617-482-6282. Harborside Restaurant lobster Savannah. L, D, LS. $$$$ This hip, funky downtown eatery specializes in gourmet makeovers of traditional Cantonese and Polynesian dishes such as kung pao The rrestaurantestaurant with an ocean of window dressing. Meritage, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-439-3995. chicken and the ubiquitous pu pu platter, as well as potent, colorful Fresh, seasonal cuisine is carefully matched to an appropriate vin- cocktails like the scorpion bowl and the innovative kumquat mojito. tage from the 12,000-bottle wine collection. The restaurant’s interior L, D, C, LS. $$ combines slate, marble, exotic wood and leather, creating a luxuri- ous atmosphere to accompany a hearty meal. All menu items come P.F. Chang’s, 8 Park Plaza, Theatre District, 617-573-0821. in appetizer and entree sizes. D, LS. $$$$ Traditional Chinese cuisine and American hospitality combine in this upbeat bistro. Specialties include Chang’s chicken in soothing let- Parker’s Restaurant, Omni Parker House, 60 School St., 617-725- tuce wraps, Dan Dan noodles and orange peel shrimp. An array of 1600. Executive chef Jerry Tice celebrates nostalgic cuisine with a vegetarian dishes such as Sichuan-style long beans and stir-fried contemporary flair. The stately dining room reflects the rich culinary spicy eggplant are also available. Enjoy an impressive list of over 50 heritage that lives on at the birthplace of Boston cream pie and the wines. Reservations accepted but not required. L & D Sun–Wed Parker House roll. B, L, D. $$$$ 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til midnight. C, LS. $$

Speeder & Earl’s, Copley Square Hotel, 47 Huntington Ave., 617- 536-9000. Boston’s “quirkiest” breakfast and coffee bar, serving EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN traditional and innovative favorites such as eggs Benedict and malt- ed waffles. Boston’s best pastries and premium blends of gourmet Lala Rokh, 97 Mt. Vernon St., 617-720-5511. Lala Rokh, the leg- coffee from Speeder & Earl’s of Vermont and are also featured. B, L, endary princess immortalized in the 19th-century tale by Irish poet Sat & SB, D. $ Thomas Moore, is honored by brother/sister team Babak and Azita Bina. Using their mother’s home-style Persian recipes and unusual The Spinnaker, atop the Hyatt Regency, 575 Memorial Dr., imported spices, they’ve created a unique dining experience in the Cambridge, 617-492-1234. Enjoy a panoramic view of the Boston only restaurant of its kind in New England. Elegant and affordable, skyline and Charles River while dining in Boston’s only revolving it’s a highlight of historic Beacon Hill. L Mon–Fri noon–3 p.m.; D Boston HistoricHistoric FishFish PierPier • 617.423.1000 rooftop restaurant and lounge. Spinnaker features American nightly 5:30–10 p.m. Reservations recommended. VP. Functions for any occasion cuisine for dinner and Sunday Brunch. Savor a cocktail or dance www.lalarokh.com $$

50 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 51

RESTAURANT GUIDE venison in an ultra-modern, minimalist setting. Pastry chef Paul L, 234 Berkeley St., 617-266-4680. Located at the upscale clothing Connors creates rapturously delectable desserts. The ambiance is institution Louis Boston, this chic, minimalist-style eatery features a powerbroker chic, and the service is top-notch. L, D, C, LS. $$$$ menu by chef Pino Maffeo that melds Asian ingredients and spices with French and Italian preparations and techniques. Dishes such as Spire, Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., 617-772-0202. Alluringly the roasted cod coated in panko bread crumbs, as well as playful ensconced in Boston’s most fashionable luxury boutique hotel, Spire amuse bouches such as cappuccino-flavored cotton candy, keeps features a striking interior and chef Gabriel Frasca’s cuisine, which L’s fashionable crowd coming back for more. L & D. $$$$ combines flavors from France, Italy, Spain and Portugal with seasonal New England ingredients. Named one of “America's 50 Best Hotel Rialto, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., Cambridge, 617-661- Restaurants” by Food and Wine. B, L, D LS, VP. $$$$ 5050. One of Greater Boston’s top restaurants features fine wines and cuisine from France, Italy and Spain. Chef Jody Adams lends her creative talents to seasonal dinner menu items such as grilled FRENCH COUNTRY pork tenderloin with Ligurian potato-cheese pie, pine nuts and basil. D only. Reservations recommended. $$$$ 1 Hungry i, 71 /2 Charles St., 617-227-3524. This restored two-story Beacon Hill townhouse features three working fireplaces and a *The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 15 Arlington St., 617-536-5700. This charming outdoor patio. Chef Peter Ballarin celebrates over 20 years 1927 culinary landmark offers award-winning contemporary French of romancing patrons with French country cuisine and his flair for cuisine. The Dining Room: D, SB. The Cafe: B, L, D, Sat & SB. The creative desserts. Signature dishes include venison au poivre, braised Lounge: L, D, C, LS. The Bar: L, D, C, LS. $$$$ rabbit a la moutard and turbin of sole. L Thu and Fri only, noon–2 p.m.; D 5:30–9:30 p.m.; SB 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Private dining room Saint, 90 Exeter St., 617-236-1134. This luxe hotspot—part available upon request. SEE LOCATOR #8 ON CENTER MAP. $$$$ restaurant, part nightclub—boasts a chi-chi decor, exotic cocktails and a “mini cuisine” menu by acclaimed chef Rene Michelena, whose Southeast Asian-inspired fusion dishes have won over the INDIAN hip crowd that congregates here. D, C, LS, VP. $$$$ 1237 Hancock St. 25 West Sreet Quincy Center www.fajitasandritas.com Boston Common Gandhi, 704 Mass. Ave., Central Square, Cambridge, 617-491-1104. Sonsie, 327 Newbury St., 617-351-2500. Recommended by 617-774-1200 617-426-1222 Savor the scents and flavors of India and enjoy exceptional Indian Boston magazine as the place to “see and be seen.” The lively cuisine in the heart of Central Square. Only the freshest produce, restaurant features a streetside cafe, 50-foot mahogany bar, brick herbs and delicate spices are used to prepare the healthy fare. L oven and colorful dining room. The menu by award-winning chef Bill daily noon–3 p.m.; D noon–11 p.m.; SB noon–3 p.m. L buffet daily Poirier includes tempura tuna roll with avocado, mizuna and tobiko noon–3 p.m., “All you can eat” $5.95. Beer & wine. $ caviar and herb pappardelle with asparagus. L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.– 2:30 p.m.; Sat & SB 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Sun–Tue 6–11 p.m. and Shanti, 1111 Dorchester Ave., 617-929-3900. Hailed by the Boston Wed–Sat 6 p.m.–midnight. C, LS, VP. Check out the Red Room cock- We share the sky Phoenix as “one of the best [South Asian] restaurants Boston has tail lounge downstairs. $$ ever had,” Shanti specializes in cuisine from India, Pakistan and We share the future Bangladesh, blending such unique flavors as garlic, ginger, mint and Zephyr on the Charles, Hyatt Regency Cambridge, 575 Memorial fresh coconut. The Huntington Ave. location is ideal for pre- or post- Drive, Cambridge, 617-441-6510. This restaurant serves small-por- symphony or theater dining and boasts a large beer and wine selec- tioned, tapas-like dishes, featuring eclectic fare like sushi-grade tion. L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D 5–11 p.m. $ tuna tartare and wood-grilled tiger prawns. The setting features spectacular views of the Boston skyline. B, L, D, C. $$ INTERNATIONAL IRISH Blue Ginger, 583 Washington St. (Rte. 16), Wellesley, 781-283-5790. Celebrity chef Ming Tsai combines the flavors of Asia, Europe and the *Black Rose, 160 State St., next to Faneuil Hall Marketplace, Americas to produce a unique cuisine that has won the praise of crit- 617-742-2286. Located in the Faneuil Hall Marketplace area, this ics. Signature dishes like sake-miso Chilean sea bass with wasabi oil popular pub features aged beef, chicken, fresh native seafood, Join together to and soy syrup make it worth the short ride to the suburbs. L & D. $$$$ light fare, hearty sandwiches and other American and Irish classics protect our world. from the grill served in a casual, jovial atmosphere. Live Irish Intrigue, Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowes Wharf, 617-856-7744. music nightly and weekend afternoons. L, D, LS, SB. Traditional To learn how Casual elegance surrounds this unique cafe. Beautiful decor and Irish breakfast served. $ you can help, breathtaking harbor views are perfect for those who desire a cos- order your free mopolitan, relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy a global menu created by *The Green Dragon Tavern, 11 Marshall St., 617-367-0055. renowned chef Daniel Bruce. B, L, D, LS. $ Boston’s premier 18th-century tavern, located on the Freedom World Wildlife Fund Trail, is home to Boston’s only Guinness/Oyster Festival. Action Kit. *Jacob Wirth, 37 Stuart St., 617-338-8586. Opened in 1868, Microbrews and a large selection of imported beers flow from its Jacob Wirth is the city’s second-oldest restaurant and a Boston taps. Live entertainment nightly, with a traditional Irish seisiun TOGETHER, WE CAN BE classic, serving European, American and traditional German fare, (session) Sat 4–8 p.m. L, D, C, Sat & SB. $ including wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten and a great selection of A FORCE FOR NATURE. German beers. This Theater District mainstay still has the look of an *Hennessy’s of Boston, 25 Union St., 617-742-2121. Located 800-CALL-WWF old-time saloon, complete with an ancient mahogany bar, weath- near Faneuil Hall, Hennessy’s serves up items like wood-grilled Irish w orldwildlife.org/act ered hardwood floors and weekly piano sing-alongs. L, D, C, LS. $$ salmon, Kilmacalog chowder, shepherd’s pie, burgers, soups, salads

52 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 53 RESTAURANT GUIDE A True Taste and a huge bar appetizer menu. An extensive beer and wine list, spices, handmade pasta, fresh grilled fish, lobster and steak. private snugs, farmer’s tables and a turf-burning fireplace. For 33 years La Groceria has been an Italian classic, having been of Eastern Featuring live entertainment five nights a week and monthly per- featured in Gourmet magazine, The Boston Globe, the Boston formances by pop bands directly from Ireland. L, D, SB. $ Herald and Zagat Survey. Enjoy excellent Northern Italian cuisine in a casual, home-style atmosphere. Children’s menu available. creative southwestern cuisine Mediterranean *The Purple Shamrock, 1 Union St., 617-227-2060. Named after Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Sat 3–10 p.m., Sun 1–9 p.m. 222 Berkeley Street former Boston Mayor James Michael Curley, the character of the www.lagroceriarestaurant.com $$ Copley Square, Boston Rascal King is captured through historical decor and an energetic 617.247.2225 in Historic Boston environment. Fresh New England seafood, lobster specials, aged Lucca Restaurant & Bar, 226 Hanover St., 617-742-9200. Tucked away in Boston’s historic Beacon Hill is Angus steaks and traditional favorites are some of its specialties. L, Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2002, Zagat snakebites Lala Rokh, featuring the culinary delights of Persia. D, Sat & SB $ Survey’s “Top New Restaurant 2002” and winner of Best of Boston 2001, this new North End eatery is racking up accolades Since its opening in 1995, the restaurant has received angus ranch strip steak ecstatic reviews by some of the country’s toughest for its regional Italian cuisine, award-winning wine list, lively bar ITALIAN and elegant atmosphere. D nightly 5–11 p.m.; weekends 5–11:30 critics including Zagat, Gourmet and Food & Wine fire and spice pasta magazines. For a memorable evening of distinctive p.m.; bar menu ’til 12:15 a.m.; C ’til 1 a.m. VP. SEE LOCATOR #11 Antonio’s, 288 Cambridge St., 617-367-3310. One of Boston’s ON CENTER MAP. $$$ cuisine, beautiful surroundings and gracious hospitality, finest Italian restaurants (across from Massachusetts General mango margaritas visit the Mediterranean world of Lala Rokh. Hospital on historic Beacon Hill). Traditional Italian food with nightly Mamma Maria, 3 North Square, Prince and Garden Court streets, specials and complementing wine list. Specials include homemade 617-523-0077. “Mamma Maria stands for what Italian food is. fresh grilled salmon fillet fusilli, shrimp margarita and chicken/sausage vinegar peppers and Simplicity, quality ingredients and fun…the food of love.” (Emeril potatoes. L, D Mon–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat 11 Lagasse, Food Network, 2004). “Best Italian Cuisine” (Frommer’s a.m.–10:30 p.m. $ Boston 2005). Set in a three-story, 19th-century brick row house 20% food discount for parties of six to overlooking North Square in the North End, Mamma Maria offers twenty guests with this ad Caffe Pompei, 280 Hanover St., 617-227-1562. Pompei features charming views of the neighborhood and city skyline, as well as a a wide variety of coffee, 160 wines by the glass, Italian cordials, Wine Spectator Award-winning wine list. The seasonal menu fea- Just a few reasons to come visit us. pizza, Italian sandwiches, homemade cannoli and ice cream tures regional Italian dishes using local ingredients. Five private www.cottonwoodboston.com imported from Italy. Open daily 4 p.m.–12:30 a.m., LS ’til 3:30 dining rooms available. D Sun–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 97 Mt. Vernon Street, Beacon Hill a.m. SEE LOCATOR #3 ON CENTER MAP. $ p.m. Reservations accepted. VP. www.mammamaria.com $$$ 720-5511 *two hours free parking back bay garage after 5 p.m. Caffe Vittoria, 296 Hanover St., 617-227-7606. This popular Massimino’s Cucina Italiana, 207 Endicott St., 617-523-5959. European-style cafe in the North End offers a variety of desserts, Owner/chef Massimino was formerly head chef of England’s cappuccino and espresso. Sun–Thu 8 a.m.–midnight, Fri & Sat ’til Birmingham Hotel, Naples’ Hotel Astoria and Switzerland’s 12:30 a.m. $ Metropolitan Hotel. Elegant, comfortable surroundings. Specialties include: veal chop stuffed with arugula, prosciutto, smoked moz- Caliterra, Wyndham Boston Hotel, 89 Broad St., 617-348-1234. zarella and black olives; and Norwegian salmon stuffed with esca- CHANG’S LETTUCE WRAPS CHANG’S LETTUCE WRAPS Located in the in the heart of the Financial District, this casual, role and shrimp in a wild mushroom cream sauce. Parking nearby. upscale restaurant features Cal-Ital cuisine with seasonal New L, D, LS, C. Mon–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m.; Sun Giving salad an England flavors. B, L, D. $$ noon–9 p.m. $ inferiority complex Cantina Italiana, 346 Hanover St., 617-723-4577. Opened in Teatro, 177 Tremont St., 617-778-6841. One of the hottest addi- since 1993. 1931, this longtime favorite is the oldest restaurant in the North tions to the Theatre District, Teatro’s reasonably priced Italian- End and serves some of the best traditional Italian cuisine in influenced menu was created by executive chef Robert Jean with Boston in a warm and charming atmosphere. Reservations recom- owner/chef Jamie Mammano. The restaurant has been praised by mended. D, LS. $$ foodies and critics alike, dubbed “Best Pre-Theatre Dining 2003” (Improper Bostonian) and “Best Italian Restaurant 2003” (Boston Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse, 75 Arlington St., 617- magazine). D Mon–Sat 5 p.m.–midnight; Sun 4–11 p.m. 357-4810; Royal Sonesta Hotel, 5 Cambridge Parkway, Reservations accepted. www.teatroboston.com $$$ Cambridge, 617-661-4810. Refer to listing under Steakhouses for full description. $$$ Via Matta, 79 Park Plaza, 617-422-0008. Radius owners Michael Schlow and Christopher Myers have created an Florentine Cafe, 333 Hanover St., 617-227-1777. Revered by Italian-style trattoria that was named one of “America’s Best visitors and residents since its post-Prohibition debut, this historic New Restaurants” by Esquire and “One of America’s Best Reservations Accepted North End cafe has become one of Boston’s culinary landmarks. Restaurants” by Gourmet. L, D, LS. Closed Sun. VP. Reservations Lobster ravioli with fresh tomatoes and lobster cream sauce, recommended. $$$$ seared veal with grilled shrimp in Frangelico mushroom sauce, and grilled prosciutto-wrapped Angus beef with alfredo risotto are just a few of the Italian wonders awaiting you in this charming MEDITERRANEAN bistro setting. Daily noon–1 a.m. L, D, C. SEE LOCATOR #7 ON In the Theatre District CENTER MAP. $$$ Bar 10, The Westin Hotel, Copley Place, 10 Huntington Ave., 8 Park Plaza • 617-573-0821 617-424-7446. This sleek, contemporary bistro serves creative (at the Transportation Building) La Groceria Ristorante Italiano, 853 Main St., Cambridge Mediterranean cuisine and offers an exceptional wine list. Enjoy pfchangs.com (off Central Square), 617-876-4162. This charming neighborhood grilled Greek salad flatbread pizza or tagliarini provencale in a restaurant boasts the freshest vegetables, the finest herbs and cosmopolitan atmosphere. L, D, C, LS. $$

54 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 55 ESTAURANT GUIDE A Boston Tradition R A National Historic Landmark Olives, 10 City Square, Charlestown, 617-242-1999. Celebrity chef selections. The dining room offers exquisite views of Boston Todd English got his start with this local eatery and the Harbor and the city skyline. L & D Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m., Charlestown flagship restaurant is still the unparalleled king of his Sat noon–11 p.m., Sun noon–10 p.m. $$ endeavors. Sample English’s multi-layered, ingredient rich, pan- Mediterranean creations. Reservations are not accepted, so arrive The Barking Crab, 88 Sleeper St., 617-426-CRAB. No frills, just early and be prepared to wait. D. $$$$ down-and-dirty dining at this ramshackle little clam shack that has become a Boston dining institution. You’ll pluck mussels and steamers from plastic buckets and drink wine out of styrofoam MUSEUM DINING cups under a red and yellow outdoor tent brimming with commu- nal-style picnic tables. The fare includes fresh fish specials of the America’s Bravo, Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., 617-369-3474. day, the Barking Crab cake burger and lobster and crabmeat rolls. Oldest Bravo is an exciting addition to the culinary offerings at the MFA. L & D Sun–Wed 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 1 a.m. SEE Chef Benjamin Cevelo brings the creative flair he developed while LOCATOR #1 ON CENTER MAP. $$ Restaurant working with Wolfgang Puck, offering a light, eclectic and On The contemporary menu. The restaurant is a work of art itself, with Chart House, 60 Long Wharf, 617-227-1576. The Chart House Freedom Trail bold colors and clean lines created by famed restaurant designer boasts an impressive menu of fresh seafood, steaks and more. In The Peter Niemitz. The inviting, warm ambiance complements a Surrounded by waterfront views, the eatery offers specialties Faneuil Hall Area rotating selection of some of the MFA’s modern masterpieces. like the crab, avocado and mango stack appetizer; shrimp fres- L daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; D Wed–Fri 5:30–8:30 p.m.; SB 11:30 ca; macadamia crusted mahi-mahi; slow roasted prime rib; and BOSTON’S HIDDEN JEWEL Specializing In Yankee Style Seafood, a.m.–3 p.m. $$$ its signature dessert—hot chocolate lava cake. Private parties Fresh New England Lobster for 30 or more by reservation only. L, D, C. SEE LOCATOR #4 ON And Grilled Meats Museum of Science, Science Park, 617-723-2500. Dinner and a CENTER MAP. $$$ movie is old news—today it’s brunch and a movie at the noontime 41 Union Street • 617-227-2750 Skyline Sunday Brunch, offering views of the Charles River and the Gourmeli’s Seafood, Marriott Copley Place, 110 Huntington Ave., Sunday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm Cambridge and Boston skylines. The package includes tickets to 617-236-5800 ext. 6741. Enjoy the sushi bar or indulge in fresh Friday & Saturday 11 am-10 pm the newest IMAX film in the Mugar Omni Theatre, admission to the lobster, swordfish and more. Offering an array of fresh New Union Bar til-Midnight exhibit halls and free parking. Tickets: $32; seniors $31; children England seafood and entrees. B, L, D. $$$ RESERVATIONS SUGGESTED All Major Credit Cards Honored • Validated Parking $30. Reservations recommended. The Science Street Cafe offers Visit Our Website • www.unionoysterhouse.com 711/2 Charles Street, Beacon Hill appetizers and drinks before or after viewing the exhibit hall, Fri Great Bay, Hotel Commonwealth, 500 Commonwealth Ave., 617- 617.227.3524 from 6–10 p.m. $ 532-5300. Christopher Myers and chef Michael Schlow (Radius, Via Matta) present their unique take on the seafood and raw bar con- cepts. This eclectic space in Kenmore Square serves delectable NEW ENGLAND fare such as fish tacos and the acclaimed baked stuffed lobster. L, D, SB, C, LS. $$$ *Durgin-Park, 340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 617-227-2038. A Boston landmark in historic Faneuil Hall (where your grandfather Harborside Grill, Hyatt Harborside, 101 Harborside Drive, 617- and great-grandfather may have dined) features steaks, chops and 568-6060. The Harborside Grill offers panoramic views of the seafood in a New England tradition. Piano and oyster bars open Boston skyline from every seat in the dining room. During the day, late. L, D. $ the casual atmosphere makes it a welcoming location for a cup of coffee or bowl of chowder. In the evening, the Grill is transformed Henrietta’s Table, The Charles Hotel, One Bennett St., into a sophisticated dining room featuring fresh New England Cambridge, 617-661-5005. “Fresh and Honest” is its creed. seafood. Open daily 6 a.m.–10 p.m. B, L, D, SB, C, LS, VP. $$$ Nothing but locally grown and organic produce are used to create a lively and textured menu of reinterpreted New England classics. Jasper White’s Summer Shack, 50 Dalton St., 617-867-9955; Daily specials feature the best available in fruits, vegetables, fish, 149 Alewife Brook Parkway, Cambridge, 617-520-9500. World- poultry and meats, prepared in an open kitchen. Private dining renowned chef, cookbook author and Boston foodie godfather room available. B Mon–Fri 6:30–11 a.m., Sat 7–11 a.m., Sun Jasper White brings his extensive knowledge of seafood and New 7–10:30 a.m.; Sat and SB noon–3 p.m.; L Mon–Sat noon–3 p.m.; England fare to the Back Bay and Cambridge. For a casual night D daily 5:30–10 p.m. $ out, the restaurant offers the freshest seafood available, including the chef’s famous pan-roasted lobster, hearty chowders, grilled put yourself Sheraton Commander Restaurant, 16 Garden St., Harvard fish, award-winning fried chicken and an unparalleled raw bar. Square, Cambridge, 617-234-1365. New England-style cuisine in a Boston: Daily 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., raw bar Thu–Sat ’til 1 a.m. relaxed, elegant setting with a casual atmosphere. B, L, D, SB. $$ Cambridge: L Mon–Fri 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Lighter fare served from in the way 3–5 p.m.; D Mon–Thu 5–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 p.m., Sun 3–9 p.m. SEE LOCATOR #9 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ Put yourself between people and their SEAFOOD problems by giving to the United Way. Jimmy’s Harborside, 242 Northern Ave., 617-423-1000. Since To learn more, call 617-624-8000 or Anthony’s Pier 4, 140 Northern Ave., 617-482-6262. For 37 1924, visitors and natives alike have found Jimmy’s Harborside to visit www.uwmb.org. years, this world-renowned institution has catered to a local, be among New England’s most famous landmarks. From the national and international clientele with its incomparable selec- waterfront location, you’ll enjoy world-renowned seafood and views tions and innovative preparations. Featuring Maine lobster from of historic Boston Harbor. Features award-winning chowders, its own lobster company, fresh New England seafood, imported Maine lobster, traditional Boston haddock and jumbo baked stuffed www.uwmb.org Dover sole, prime steaks and a wine list of more than 500 shrimp. A substantial, acclaimed wine list is modestly priced.

56 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 57

RESTAURANT GUIDE Mon–Thu noon–9:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 10 p.m., Sun 4–9 p VP. SEE SOUTHERN LOCATOR #10 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ *Bob the Chef’s Jazz Cafe, 604 Columbus Ave., 617-536-6204. Legal Sea Foods Restaurant, 26 Park Plaza, Park Square Motor Boston’s premier soul food restaurant features a wide array of tal- Mart, 617-426-4444; 255 State St., Long Wharf, 617-227-3115; ented local jazz musicians as well as a delightful assortment of Copley Place, 100 Huntington Ave., 617-266-7775; Prudential southern and Cajun cuisines to satisfy any palate. Live jazz SB 10 Center, 800 Boylston St., 617-266-6800; 5 Cambridge Center, a.m.–2:30 p.m. D Mon–Thu 5–10 p.m., L & D Fri & Sat 11:30 Kendall Square, Cambridge, 617-864-3400; other locations. For a.m.–midnight. www.bobthechef.com. SEE LOCATOR #2 ON CEN- over 50 years, Legal Sea Foods has served the freshest seafood TER MAP. $$ possible, including oysters, wood grilled fish, succulent New England lobsters and its famous clam “chowda.” Extensive wine list. L & D. $$$ SOUTHWESTERN

McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant, Boston Park Cottonwood Cafe, 222 Berkeley St., 617-247-2225. Specialties Plaza Hotel, 34 Columbus Ave., 617-482-3999; Faneuil Hall include open-grill steaks, poultry, seafood, pasta and vegetarian Marketplace, North Market, 617-720-5522. Recognized nationwide dishes. Voted “Boston’s Best Southwestern Restaurant” and for its fresh seafood and lively atmosphere, McCormick & Schmick’s “Boston’s Best Margarita.” Reservations recommended. Private offers more than 30 varieties of fresh seafood, as well as steak, function rooms. Two hours free validated parking. L Mon–Fri 11:30 chicken and pasta dishes and a unique menu that changes daily. L a.m.–2:30 p.m.; D daily ’til 11 p.m.; Sat & SB 11 a.m.–3 p.m. C, daily 11 a.m.–4 p.m.; D Sun–Thu 4–11:30 p.m., Fri & Sat 4 LS, VP. www.cottonwoodboston.com $$ p.m.–midnight. Bar open daily ’til 1:30 a.m. Bar menu Mon–Fri 3:30–6:30 p.m., Sat & Sun 10 p.m.–midnight. Casual attire. $$$ Fajitas & ’Ritas, 25 West St., 617-426-1222; 1327 Hancock St., Quincy Center, 617-774-1200. Established in 1989, Fajitas & ’Ritas Oceana, Marriott Long Wharf Hotel, 296 State St., 617-227-3838. is an easygoing, fun restaurant and bar which features fresh, One of Boston’s premier seafood spots. Boasting a breathtaking healthy Tex-Mex and barbecue cuisine. The award-winning loca- Langham Hotel, Boston (formerly Le Meridien) view of the Harbor, Oceana offers uniquely prepared fresh seafood. tions stress generous portions, affordable prices, open casual 250 Franklin Street, Boston B, L, D, SB. $$ space and prompt, friendly service, and is a great place to throw a 617.956.8752 party. Boston: Mon–Tue 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m., Wed, Thu & Sat ’til 10 www.langhamhotels.com Skipjack’s Seafood Emporium, 199 Clarendon St., Copley p.m. Fri ’til 11 p.m., Sun noon–8 p.m. Quincy: Mon–Wed 11:30 Square, 617-536-3500; 1400 Worcester Rd. (Rte. 9), Natick, 508- a.m.–9 p.m., Thu–Sat ’til 10 p.m., Sun 5–9 p.m. C, LS. www.faji- 628-9900; 55 Needham St., Newton, 617-964-4244. Enjoy fresh- tasandritas.com. SEE LOCATOR #6 ON CENTER MAP. $ grilled seafood in a comfortable atmosphere. Specialties include blackened tuna sashimi, Skipjack’s moonfish, Maryland crabcakes and lobsters. Winner of Best of Boston 2003 award for seafood STEAKHOUSES restaurant. Swing with the Winiker Orchestra Jazz Brunch Sun 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Boston: L & D Sun–Thu 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til Abe & Louie’s, 793 Boylston St., 617-536-6300. Boasting the 11 p.m. Newton: L & D 11:30 a.m.– 10:30 p.m., Fri & Sat ’til 11 service, style and elegance of a New York steakhouse, this p.m., Sun ’til 9 p.m. $$ establishment offers a menu that includes hand-selected, prime- aged cuts of beef, fresh fish and poultry, as well as an extensive Turner Fisheries, Westin Hotel Copley Place, corner of Stuart wine selection. The sophisticated mahogany and brass-accented and Dartmouth Streets, 617-424-7425. Seafood, honest and cur- decor creates a comfortable environment perfect for entertaining. rent, is on the menu at one of Boston’s newest and grandest L, D, C, LS. $$$$ seafood restaurants. Known for its fresh seafood and winner of several regional awards, Turner’s features seven-foot-high Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse, 75 Arlington St., 617-357- French windows, swooping Hollywood banquettes, mahogany 4810; Royal Sonesta Hotel, 5 Cambridge Parkway, Cambridge, 617- paneling and cobalt blue tile. Private dining rooms accommodate 661-4810. The menu includes selections of the finest cuts of meats, 10–140 guests. Discounted VP at The Westin Hotel Copley Place. homemade pastas, fresh seafood and more. Enjoy lighter fare and a L, D, C, LS. $$$ late night menu in the spacious bar and parlor area. The Park Square location is close to the theater, historic sites, shopping and Wisteria, Doubletree Hotel Boston, 821 Washington St., 617-956- includes functon space for 10–300 people, while the Cambridge 7900. This restaurant and bar with a nouveau Asian twist offers an location on the banks of the Charles River features an outdoor patio Prices range from $45.00 to $56.00 innovative menu that synthesizes of New England seafood and and a spectacular view of the Boston skyline. L Mon–Fri 11:30 Children under 12, $17.50. Asian cuisine. Impeccable service and attention to detail are appar- a.m.–3 p.m.; D Sun–Tue 5–10 p.m., Wed–Sat ’til 11 p.m.; C, VP. ent, from the unique presentation of entrees on signature china to www.davios.com. SEE LOCATOR #5 ON CENTER MAP. $$$ Sunday seatings: 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. the welcoming hotel towel offered upon being seated. L & D. $$$ *The Oak Room, 138 St. James Ave., Fairmont Copley Plaza Ye Olde Union Oyster House, 41 Union St., 617-227-2750. Steps Hotel, 617-267-5300. This sophisticated restaurant offers a tradi- away from Quincy Market on the Freedom Trail stands America’s tional steakhouse menu of prime steaks, generous chops and fresh Langham Hotel, Boston (formerly Le Meridien) oldest restaurant, serving Yankee-style seafood, flame-grilled beef New England seafood. Replete with stately wood paneling and 250 Franklin Street, Boston and chicken. Famous for its oyster bar where Daniel Webster dined accented with rich draperies and wall ornaments for a comfortable 617.451.1900, ext. 7125 daily. Specialties include clam chowder, shrimp, swordfish, seafood yet elegant feel. B, L, D daily. The Oak Bar specializes in classic and www.langhamhotels.com platters and fresh lobster. L, D Sun–Thu 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Fri & contemporary martinis, offering a raw bar and the complete Oak Sat ’til 10 p.m. VP. www.unionoysterhouse.com $$$ Room menu. $$$$

58 PANORAMA APRIL 11–24, 2005 59

TheThe North Church, Boston’s oldest standing saints of Italian villages and center around church (built in 1723) served as the signal jubilant parades of the saints’ statues tower that spurred Revere on his jaunt through the North End’s winding roadways. through the countryside. And Copp’s Hill Food vendors, hawking everything from NORTHNORTH ENDEND Burying Ground, founded in 1660 as the sausage to calamari, add their own flavor Hub’s second cemetery, provided the final to the scene. enowned as Boston’s “Little Italy,” the North End is constantly brimming with the aroma resting place of many famous colonials, If you’re looking for belly laughs of garlic and freshly cooked cuisine. But its storied history is also part of its charm. The such as the Puritan preachers of the instead of a full belly, have a seat at the Roldest neighborhood in the city, it gave birth to the American Revolution on its narrow Mather family, including Salem Witch Trial- Improv Asylum on Hanover Street to take cobblestone streets and has been home to wave after wave of new immigrants. Today, with era firebrand Cotton Mather, and Edmund in the wild antics of this innovative such strong ties to its past, the North End remains one of the most European neighborhoods in Hartt, whose shipyard constructed the U.S. comedy troupe. The Asylum offers off- America, offering the best in Old World cooking and tradition along with a variety of sightseeing Navy’s flagship U.S.S. Constitution. the-cuff fun and hilarity at its original and entertainment adventures year-round. Here’s a look at what you’ll find: North End venue. ENTERTAINMENT And if you haven’t had enough of good FOOD SIGHTSEEING In keeping with its Old World character, the old Paul Revere, check out Paul Revere The North End is widely known for its abun- One of Boston’s most well-known attrac- North End observes many traditions Tonight, which runs at the Old North dance of Italian restaurants. The cuisine is tions is, of course, the Freedom Trail. Three imported from the shores of Europe. One Church during the summer and fall. Award- authentic and consistently delicious, whether of its sites are located in the North End. such annual rite is the weekly Italian winning actor David Conner re-creates this Old World Sicilian, traditional Northern The Paul Revere House, Boston’s oldest feasts and processions, kept alive by legendary figure and tells the oft-untold Italian or Mediterranean fusion. And though home built circa 1680, was occupied by the immigrants and their descendents, that stories of Revere’s upbringing and his the ambience can be boisterous, romantic famed silversmith/patriot/midnight rider take place throughout the summer and midnight ride. or somewhere in between, the setting is and his family (including 16 children!) from enliven this already spirited locale. These See listings in Currently and usually intimate, with patrons rubbing 1770–1800. Christ Church, a.k.a. the Old spectacles usually celebrate the patron Sightseeing. elbows with one another in crowded dining rooms—it’s all part of the European feel. WINE SPECTATOR AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 2002

Restaurant open daily Nouvelle Italian Cuisine from 4 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. featuring a variety of Late night menu available meats and fresh fish... ’til 3:30 a.m. Specials prepared daily; SPECIALIZING IN Pan seared veal with ITALIAN CUISINE “ZAGAT SURVEY, TOP NEWCOMER 2002” grilled shrimp, housemade lobster ravioli and Certified REGIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE 280 HANOVER ST. Black Angus beef. Full bar Dinner Nightly from 5 and private function “BEST ITALIAN CUISINE. NORTH END Late night menu until 12:15 a.m. room available. By far the best restaurant in the North End, BOSTON, MA 02113 Drinks until 1 a.m. Mamma Maria might be the best in town.” TEL: 617-227-1562 226 Hanover St., North End, Boston 333 HANOVER ST., BOSTON Frommer’s Boston 2005 (617) 742-9200 • www.luccaboston.com 617.227.1777 FAX: 617-227-1562 three north square, boston (617) 523-0077 Valet Parking — Private Function Room www.florentinecafeboston.com www.mammamaria.com SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

BOSTON CONFIDENTIAL Hidden History, Insider’s Secrets and more T heatre D istrict D ining Hidden Secrets of FENWAY PARK An inside look at pro baseball’s oldest ballpark by Christine Celli ome to the Boston Red Sox since 1912, Fenway Park lays claim to being the oldest Best Italian Restaurant 2003 Hballpark in Major League Baseball. —Boston Magazine Visitors to the stadium will immediately spot 177 Tremont St., Boston the famed Green Monster, the retired num- 617.778.6841 bers of such Red Sox greats as Ted Williams www.teatroboston.com and Carl Yastrzemski and the banners that reservations accepted mark the team’s achievements over the years. But they may miss some of the features 1 2 3 that often go unnoticed yet make Fenway the 1 shrine that it is to baseball fans. These include:

Teddy Ballgame’s Seat: Seat 21 in row 37 of sec- s Pole courtesy of the Boston Red Sox; 1tion 42 of the bleachers marks the spot where, in 1946, Williams knocked what is believed to be the longest home run in the park’s history (502 feet), landing in and ruining the straw hat of the patron

sitting there. illiams seat and Pesky’ Pesky’s Pole: ed W Just one of many examples of Fenway’s quirks is 2 rot Nixon photo by Brian Babineau/courtesy of the Boston Red Sox T T 2the right field foul pole, which is placed closer than in most big-league stadiums at 302 1 feet. Since the field juts outward beyond the pole, fly balls that in other parks would be foul balls end up as home runs. Johnny Pesky, not exactly a power hitter when he played for the Sox from 1942–52, wrapped a few of his six career Fenway homers around that pole, which 5 was christened in his honor by a teammate. Manually Operated Scoreboard: The only one left in the Majors, the game’s score is 3 2 kept by two operators who sit inside the Green 3 Monster and monitor the game by radio. 4 Morse Code: Two of the scoreboard’s 4vertical lines contain the initials of long- time owners Thomas and Jean Yawkey, spelled out in Morse code. 3 The Monster’s Ladder: If you squint 5you’ll see it—a ladder 13 feet up the wall in left center. In the past it was used by groundkeepers to fetch balls hit into the net over the giant green wall. But now with the four new rows of seats on top of the Green Monster, its function is obsolete. Julie Cordeiro/Cindy Loo 62 PANORAMA SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION 14001400 WWorcesterorcester RdRd (Rte(Rte 9)9) NNatickatick 550808 662828-99009900