WALK 4 • GREAT NATURE’S OPEN BOOK – DURLSTON 27 21/04/2010 11:12:56 DURLSTON ABOUT THIS WALK 4. GREAT NATURE’S OPEN BOOK – OPEN NATURE’S 4. GREAT One man conveniently links together both sides of this story. George George story. this of sides both together links conveniently man One – Durlston – – Quarries – Swanage – Anvil Point Swanage – Durlston hours, of 1½-3 mile (6.5 km) circular walk This is a gentle 4 Park to the Durlston Country Swanage from the centre of quarrying stone old through again back and Globe), the (for areas. STARTING POINT Swanage, by the pier. FACILITIES Refreshments at . ANY PROBLEMS? This route is popular and easy to follow. few. Very Burt (1816-1894) was a Swanage man who made his fortune in London London in fortune his made who man Swanage a was (1816-1894) Burt was uncle (his business building and stone uncle’s his in partner a as of founder the and quarryman Swanage a of son the Mowlem, John old the with familiar was Burt company). construction famous the from town the to down brought was stone where one the Swanage, It was in the last decades of the nineteenth centuryIt was in the last decades of the nineteenth that Swanage What had previously transformation. underwent a quite profound sea-portbeen a working where the stone trade dominated the local began itself changing out of all recognition. ‘Trippers’ economy found opened in 1885) and by arriving, both on the trains (the branch line paddle-steamers from newly‑developed Bournemouth. The sandy muscled out the stone and tourism beach became the centre of life piers tell the story:merchants. Swanage’s two the old pier (now just a trade; for stumps set in the sea) had been built in 1859 set of wooden leisure. the new pier, erected in 1896, was for New Walking in Purbeck final layout.indd 27 28 New Walking in Purbeck final layout.indd 28 WALK 4 • GREAT NATURE’S OPEN BOOK – DURLSTON in London,would, you feel, havebeendelighted. inKensalold plaques.Theman,nowrestinginthecemetery Green coast. Newinterpretationboardsaregoingup,tocomplement Burt’s second leaseoflife asoneofthemainvisitorcentresfor theheritage Durlston Castlecanhavea other grantfunding isensuringthatBurt’s has helpedsaveDurlstonandledtoitstransformation. and Lottery coastline, theJurassicCoast,asaUNESCOworld heritagesitewhich unprepossessing bar. building insearchofanewrole,atvarious timesatiredcafe or ‘Castle’ wasalost terraced walkwaysbecameovergrown. Burt’s The behind turnstilesandbecamearathertackytouristattraction. greatglobe,for Burt’s twentieth century: example,wasfenced off oceans, andtheheightofspringtidesatSwanage. the durationoflongestdayatSpitsbergen,convexity the sideofDurlstonCastletoinform visitors,amongotherthings,of round, andreadGreatNature’sopenBook’). (‘Look and withstonesigns,appropriatelyinscribedexhortations and promenades,withseatssuitablypositionedfor admiringthevistas style.HelaidouthisDurlstonestatewithwideavenues best Victorian stone, hethensetaboutdoinghisbesttoimprove hishometownin business andmadehismoney bypavingLondon’sstreetswithPurbeck in themakingofnew,visitor-orientated,town.Havingbuilthis stone taken to them along the tramway from the bankers. construction of the pier meant that ships could tie up there, with the be riding at anchor waiting to receive their cargo. Later, of course, the in turn conveyed the stone further out to sea, where sailing ships would waters of the bay, ready to be transferred into small boats. These boats stacks or ‘bankers’, and then carried in carts by horses into the shallow the quarries of Herston and Langton, stored beside the water in stone the shoreline (which can be slippery) or along Peveril along Road, either just Point,above. Peveril towards way your make and Club Sailing From the pier, follow the ‘coast path’ sign to the right of the Swanage It hasbeenthedesignationin2001ofDorsetandEast Durlston wentthroughatorridtimeinthesecondhalfof hadastrongeducationalstreak:stoneplaqueswereputupon Burt knewSwanageasithadbeen,healsoamajorpart But ifBurt THE WALK 21/04/2010 11:12:56 WALK 4 • GREAT NATURE’S OPEN BOOK – DURLSTON 29 21/04/2010 11:12:56 START Peveril is still one of the most pleasant parts of Swanage, and the Peveril station has been a landmark in this part of Swanage The lifeboat centre of the small lobster fishing industry. As you walk to the point, walk to the centre of the small lobster fishing industry. As you a typical piece of Victorianthere’s a chance to admire the clock tower, gothic architecture which was originally erected near London Bridge his tower Unfortunately to commemorate the Duke of Wellington. to hold back the London traffic ‑ whereupon John was soon found it to Swanage. The clock Mowlem’s firm dismantled it and shipped is one of a number tower (the clock itself never arrived at Swanage) Burtof relics from London which Mowlem and were responsible for been partlybringing here. Their motives must have pragmatic, since the otherwise empty stone the masonry ballast for helped provide boats on the return journeys. since 1875, when a south‑east gale and a dark night conspired to drive Fortunately, , on to the rocks at Peveril. an Exeter ship, the Wild Wave the crew of five were saved by coastguards, but it was clear that New Walking in Purbeck final layout.indd 29 30 New Walking in Purbeck final layout.indd 30 WALK 4 • GREAT NATURE’S OPEN BOOK – DURLSTON immediately: the story of the rescue appeared in they were lucky. The town needed a lifeboat, and got one almost seawards fromPeveril Point needtobegivenawideberth. to commercialshippingandthePeveril Ledgeswhichstretchout the slipwayintobay.ThePurbeck coastlineremainstreacherous whenbeinglauncheddown main boatitselfisafinesightparticularly next day one of the readers came forward with the money for the boat. below you; is can be seen Bay, ahead Durlston at the bay, end of secondthe bay. Swanage’s cliff. the of edge the along The Swanagelifeboat houseisfrequentlyopentovisitors,andthe From the coastwatch lookout at , follow the path uphill The Globe,DurlstonCastle The Times , and the 21/04/2010 11:12:57 WALK 4 • GREAT NATURE’S OPEN BOOK – DURLSTON 31 21/04/2010 11:12:57 Take the steps down from the Globe and turn right on to the coast the to on right turn and Globe the from down steps the Take The path continues along the cliff‑side before leaving the grassy right‑hand the down walk and turn Durlston, at arrives path the As The Lighthouse, Anvil Point The Globe is, along with Corfe Castle and , a familiar Castle and Old Harry Rocks, a familiar Corfe The Globe is, along with that the place names and The Globe has recently been restored, so hillside by two stone seats. When you reach left a (an old tarmac stone road, sign turn confirms the way). Continue to the the road, turning left end when you emerge of at the more major Durlston a along short the road for Road. Walk way, and then turn left on to a footpath into woodlands. (This route for the coast path is relatively new, the more direct route the of edge the to having you bring will turn left Another problems.) erosion been closed because of now path The path. coast the cliff of route old the up pick you where bay, been have woods The woodlands. overgrown some through wanders cut back a little recently and a number of viewpoints give glimpses Wight. out towards the Isle of reach the stone Globe. you side of the Castle until picture on postcards. It was constructed in 1887 in Mowlem’s yard at picture on postcards. It was constructed in 1887 in Mowlem’s yard stone held together by granite Greenwich from 15 pieces of Portland 40 tons. dowels, and is estimated to weigh about it Burtdetails can once again be made out. Around put up a series of stones inscribed ‘Persons tablets quoting the poets, as well as blank do so on this stone only’. Also anxious to write their names will please 100 of them has over nearby are old London metal bollards: Swanage in total, rescued by Burt were no longer required in the when they capital. New Walking in Purbeck final layout.indd 31 The Globe, Durlston Castle Durlston The Globe, 32 New Walking in Purbeck final layout.indd 32 WALK 4 • GREAT NATURE’S OPEN BOOK – DURLSTON Purbeck coast, before retracingyour steps. home for manytypesofsea‑birds.Enjoy theseaviewsalong are amongtheplantsandflowersgrowinghere,cliffs Thrift,sea plantainandsamphire onalittlefurther. and energy,carry early 1880s,thecoastpathcontinuesenticingly.Ifyou havethetime Billingsgate Market. statues old including the from balustrades curiosities, stone and Exchange own Royal London’s from its has surprisingly not which hotel, a now House, Purbeck residence former Town Burt’s George the is from Hall road the Across 1670. to back dates and London, Cheapside, in Hall Mercers’ the to entrance the originally was This Swanage’s Town Hall, another London souvenir saved by George Burt. just nexttothechurch). may want to take the of opportunity exploring the old Mill Pond area you do, you(Before pier. the to steps your retrace to right turn and appears, tower church Swanage course ahead. directly due in and on, straight quarrying former Keep denotes activity. tothepath,whichrunsalmoststraightahead. which ground pocked the is left over the while to right, your on shortly view into comes itself town The of thefield. side right‑hand the down continue and gate), the to alternative an provide wall the in set (stones meadow the Enter path Swanage. to the back of start the is This meadow. a into leading gate, another top, tofindagate. the at followleft to Bear left, hillside. sharp the turn up bridge path a whitewashed small the crossing after Immediately inland. distance Beyond thelighthouseonAnvilPoint, inthe whichwaserected lighthouse. the towards valley little a up, back then and down, scramble to path estate Durlston the leave you as you behind seen be can but falls, (old stone quarries) are closed to the public due to the danger of rock Caves The Caves. TillyWhim the to entrance old the past edge, the cliff along winds it as path this Follow Bay. Durlston of woodlands sheltered the after change pleasant a making it, accompanies often wind sea bracing A sea. to out straight view fine the enjoying path, You emerge into Townsend Road. Drop down to the High Street, High the to down Drop TownsendRoad. into emerge You see you’ll right your to immediately and gate, the through Pass s o wl bc dw Hg Sre, oie h fotg of frontage the notice Street, High down back walk you As Carry tarmac. becomes and houses new some skirts track The Swanage. of centre the to back walking easy is it on, now From short fora road access tarmac the take and lighthouse the Leave 21/04/2010 11:12:57