A NEWS BULLETIN published quarterly by the NEW ZEALAND ANTARCTIC SOCIETY

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NEW COUNTRY Dogs spanned out at the camp below New Year Pass, on the way to January Col, in a range, not yet named, south of Mt. Markham. This is previously untraversed country in the extreme west of the Ross Dependency, explored by "Bob" Miller and George Marsh during their long sledge journey last year. Photo: J. H. Miller.

Vol. I, No. 12. DECEM BER, 1958 Antarctica

• MaLquarie I.

bo·s.

N. Z. M.5. "I II"AWN ... IANU)" )UIl,VI!Y U('T.. N,l. (Successor to "Antarctic News Bulletin")

Vo!. I, No. 12 DECEMBER, 1958

Editor: L. B. Quartermain, M.A., 1 Arild Road, Wellington, E.2, New Zealand. Business Communications, Subscriptions, etc., to: Secretary, New Zealand Antarctic Society, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington, N.Z. INTENSIFIED PROGRAMME FOR NEW PARTY AT SCOTT' BASE A strong nine-man team has been chosen by the Ross Dependency Research Committee to replace the present New Zealand party under Mr. L. H. Martin at Scott Base. The men were selected' from over 150 applicants. The new leader is L. R. HEWITT, the P. and T. Department as a aged 45, a well-known mountaineer, Technician at Makara Radio Station. who is at present assistant-manager M. F. RODGERS (26), of Lower Hutt: of the Chateau Tongariro. An old boy technician. Born in Dunedin and of Christ's College, Mr. Hewitt serv«:d educated at King Edward T~chnical with the RAF. and the RN.Z.A.F. In College, in 1952 he joined the Regu- Britain, the Middle East, and the lar Army as an electronic techni- Pacific. As a member of the New Zea- cian. He joined the Dominion land Alpine Club and the Canterbury Physical .Laboratory in 1955 and Mountaineering Club, he has had 25 was employed in radio physical in- years' experience of climbing in t~e vestigations.. He assisted in the Southern Alps. He also took yart ~n building of some of the equipment the 1955 New Zealand expeditIOn In already installed at Scott Base. the Karakoram Hamalayas. Interested in tramping and climb­ The other men selected are: ing, he has led several parties into the Southern Alps. B. P. SANDFORD, M.Se. (24), of Wel­ G. F. G. WARD (31), of Kaitaia: lington (whose brother was a mem­ Senior Maintenance Officer. Born ber of the I.G.Y. team at Scott Base in Christchurch; educated there and last year): senior scientist. Educated at Temuka District High School, he at Raetihi School, Wanganui Tech­ served an engineering apprentice­ nical College and Victoria Unversity ship in Christchurch and FairIie; of Wellington, he has ihis year been then entered the Auckland Teach­ working at the Invercargill I.G.Y. ers' Training College in 1953 and station studying auroral spectra. trained as a metal work teacher. R. V. PEMBERTON (27), of Welling­ He was on the staff of Kaitaia ton: technician. Born in England, College from 1954 as engineering he served as a photographer with instructor. He has excelled at the RA.F. He later studied radio swimming and has followed cricket, and joined the Merchant Navy as a deer stalking and fly fishing. Radio Officer before emigrating to L. J. SALES (38), of Stokes' Valley: New Zealand. He is employed by maintenance officer. At present em- 318 ANTARCTIC December, 1958

ployed as a diesel fitter in the Hutt the Deer Research Section of the N.Z. Ralway Workshops, he was born in Forest Service, will be at Scott Base London and came to New Zealand for the summer. He went south by last year. He has had considerable air on November 9. experience of working under Arctic conditions, as for five years he was AMERICAN GUESTS area inspector of maintenance for With the New Zealand party at the U.S. Air Force in Newfoundland Scott Base will be four American and made several visits to Green­ scientists: land. He is also experienced in sea F. G. VAN DER HOEVEN, seismo- rescue work. logist; P. PHILLIPS (43), of Auckland: radio A. M. STUART, glaciologist; operator. Born in Wales, he joined P. T. HEISER, auroral physicist; the Royal Navy in 1933 and was for 22 years in the communications J. G. WEIHAUPT, asst. glaciologist. and electrica1 branches in all parts During the winter they will assist of the world. He served in cruisers, with the scientific programme, using M.T.B.'s and submarines in the equipment to be transferred from Atlantic and the Far East, and was Little America. Next summer they awarded the D.S.M. in 1941. He will set out on a lengthy field trip by served with Saunders-Roe on the sno-cat, extending the traverse at Black Knight project before coming present being led by Mr. A. P. Crary to New Zealand in 1957. He is em­ in the Victoria Land area. ployed as a technician with the The Scott Base party will leave Navy Department, Devonport. Mar­ Wellington on H.M.N.Z. "Endeavour" ried, with one child. on December 20. E. S. WEDGWOOD (29), of Invercar­ gill: cook. Born n England, at 17 he NEW ZEALAND PLANS joined the R.A.F. as cook, and The most important development served in Egypt and the Sudan. He in the scientific programme at Scott joined the Merchant Navy with the Base will be the intensified study of Orient Line, then Shaw-Savill and the lower regions of the ionosphere, finally spent 18 months in the 30 to 60 miles above the earth's sur­ kitchen of the "Queen Mary" before face, which affect radio communica­ coming to New Zealand 8 months tions by absorbing certain lower radio ago. frequencies. One more technician has yet to be "New Zealand leads the world in appointed. this field of research through the Dr. Trevor Hatherton, scientific work done at Canterbury University leader at Scott Base 1957-58, and under Dr. J. B. Gregory, senior lec­ officer in charge of New Zealand's turer in physics," said Mr. Holloway, scientific activities in the Antarctic, Minister in Charge of Scientific and spent several weeks continuing the Industrial Research. gravimetric survey he began two "Already our scientists have dis­ summers ago, working for a distance covered a number of previously un­ of about 100 miles along the Victoria known features about this ionospheric Land coastline west of McMurdo layer which will be further studied Sound. He is now with the American from Scott Base by the use of radio traverse party in Victoria Land. wave techniques. Mr. J. Humphries, who spent last year at Hallett Station, is at Scott NEW EQUIPMENT Base on relieving duties for two "With the aid of Government fin· months. ance, special equipment costing some Mr. G. J. Caughley, B.Se., of Eltham, [:i,OnO hus been ucsigncu Hnd built in a 20-year-old hiologist. employed hy Ihe Illlivcrsily's industrial develop· /,11 I A I·: ell C 31'1 ment department tu Ilelp with this Royal l-IUlllRoss Sea during January and. Febru­ The dog teams were taken for a 16­ ary, 1959. The scientists engaged on mile run across the sea ice on August this work will be Dr. R. K. Dell (38), 31. The dogs performed well. Later, a senior scientific officer on the staff they were split into three teams and of the Dominion Museum, Wellington, short journeys were made from Scott and Messrs. J. S. Bullivant, M.Sc. Base to Cape Evans and to White (24), zoologist, A. G. McFarlane (24), Island. On the latter journey the technician (hydrology), N. A. Powell weather deteriorated, bringing high (21), zoologist, and D. G. McKnight winds and limited visibility and the (22), technician (biology). trip was not as interesting as it might otherwise have been The dog teams "ENDEAVOUR" performed well. Commander J.. E. Washbourn, One sno-cat was used for a quick R.N.Z.N., took over command of run to White Island with a spare H.M.N.Z.S. "Endeavour" on August field radio for the field party. 5. The vessel is scheduled to leave Wellington for the Antarctic on FIELD WORK December 20. A start was made on a combined Lieut. E. Burrows and A.B. M. gravity and magnetic survey from Brown, of "Endeavour", hnvc becn Dailcy Islands to Granite Harbour with awardcd lhe I3rOI17:\,) M\,)dal of tll\,) gravity observations at Dailey Islands, 320 ANTARCTIC Decembor, 1958

Cape Chocolate, Butter Point, Spike attempted take-up would be an invita­ Cape, Marble Point and Granite Har­ tion to disaster, decided to taxi back bour, Otter air transport provided by to McMurdo over the rough bay ice. the American Navy being used for Crevasses and other menaces to these areas as the ice conditions pre­ "traffic" forced the Otter to make a vailing were unsuitable for vehicle detour, adding 10 miles to the journey, transport. which was made in four hours. At last report only two gravity A United States Navy Dakota and stations had been established, one at a Neptune circled overhead to scout the Dailey Islands and one on the a safe route. The circling aircraft bluff between the Hobbs and Blue. radioed to the Otter pilot that they Glaciers. Further work had to be could see the crack in the ski-plane's postponed as the aircraft used broke fuselage, behind the passengers' door, its fuselage on landing near Cape opening as much as 18 in. when the Chocolate, resulting in a cold and plane bumped over the ice. adventurolls trip home to McMurdo. "REALLY INTERESTING" (See below.) Everything movable in the little Using a Tucker sno-cat for trans­ aircraft was moved forward for the port, a gravity station was established bumpy journey over the ice. This was on White Island and magnetic obser­ necessary to take the weight off the vations were made on the Ross Ice tail. "It was really interesting. We did Shelf ten miles from White Island. not know when the tail would break A complete set of magnetic observa­ off," said Mr. Martin. tions was not possible owing to poor The crack in the fuselage was dis­ weather. covered by the Otter's third passenger, Sgt. Duff joined the Little America­ a United States International Geo­ Victoria Land traverse led by Mr. physical Year representative, Will Crary on October 15. Major Dawson, Smith, who said: "The aircraft swish­ of the U.S. Army, who was with the ed down to a smooth landing on the traverse party for their first ten days, ice. Then I heard a rattling sound as said that Sgt. Duff's services had though tools were rattling around in been "invaluable" and that the Ameri­ a box somewhere." This led to the cans were greatly impressed by his discovery of the crack. mechanical ability. Mr. Smith and Lieutenant Com­ The health of all members has been mander John Henning, the Otter's satisfactory, except for some severe co-opilot, hiked ahead of the plane colds and influenza-brought in by for two miles to find a navigable the new arrivals. course over the sastrugi. TAXI ON ICE Two New Zealand scientists on The white ensign which flew from October 22 had the longest and rough­ one of Sir Vi vi an Fuchs' sno-cats est taxi ride in the history of the during the crossing of Antarctic was Antarctic. It was made after an Otter presented by Chief Radar Electrician eight-seater aircraft was grounded by P. D. Mulgrew to H.M.N.Z.S. "Pega­ a cracked fuselage. The (tamage to sus". the fuselage was discovered after the Otter had landed near Cape Chocolate, BASIC NEEDS 30 miles north of McMurdo. "All that is needed in the Antarctic Martin, the leader of the New Zea­ is a bettcr climate and a greater pro­ land party at Scott Base, and Burrows portion of women in the population." had been flown to the area to l11al«: Quoted by tlie United Slates AI11­ a series 'Of gravity readings. 1J,lssaicebreaker "Staten Island" on of Christchurch; A. J. Heine (stores November 25. officer), of Wellington; J. Harrison Or. Harrington last summer led a (mountaineer assistant), of Christ­ similar party which explored the church; W. Romanes (mountaineer northern Victoria Land area of the assistant), of Hastings; K. C. Wise Ross Dependency and mapped some (mountaineer assistant and radio 6,000 square miles of previously un­ officer), of Christchurch; J. G. Wilson known territory. (mountaineer assistant), of Christ­ Till the party is withdrawn toward church; and M. R. White (moun­ the end of February, it will work in taineer assistant), of Christchurch. the vicinity of Terra Nova Bay, mid­ Dr. Harrington is the oldest in the way between McMurdo Sound and party and Mr. Wilson, at 21, the Cape Hallett. youngest. Last summer the Trans-Antarctic SLEDGE HAULING Expedition worked its way up the An aerial reconnaissance will be coast from Scott llase to the Mawson made of the area before the party is Glacier while the New Zealand Geo­ landed from the icebreaker. They will logical party worked south from probably split into smaller groups to Hallett Station to the Lady Newnes cover as much area as possible. Using Ice Shelf. It is planned this year to 11-ft. long, Norwegian type, man­ fill the 200-mile gap between these hauled sledges they plan to penetrate points. 60 to 70 miles inland from the coast. In the area are mountains up to Members of the party underwent 11,000 feet in height and extending a short, intensive training course on between 70 and 80 miles towards a the Tasman Glacier before leaving plateau. New Zealand. This area on the western shore of the Ross Sea forms the largest land EXPERIENCED MEN mass in the Ross Dependency and Dr. Harrington, who is 34, is a could be of considerable value to principal scientific officer of the Geo­ New Zealand in the years ahead. This logical Survey. He graduated M.Sc. summer's work should complete a at Auckland University in 1944 and general overall picture of the area after war service was district' geo­ and pave the way for more intensive logist in Otago from 1947 to 1951. studies of selected areas in the fut~re. He was then awarded a National Re­ search Fellowship to Oxford Univer­ STRONG TEAM sity, where he obtained a doctorate The team, chosen from more than in geology in 1954. He led two Oxford 300 applicants, is: University expeditions, to Spitzbergen Dr. Harrington (leader and senior in 1953 and to the Himalayas in 1954, geologist); E. B. Fitzgerald (deputy returning to the Geological Survey as leader and senior surveyor), of Dun­ a petrologist. Last year he led the edin; A. C. Beck (geologist), of West­ Antarctic geological expedition which port; 1. G. Speden (geologist), of operated from the joint U.S.-N.Z. base Wellington; G. Henderson (surveyor), at Cape Hallett. 322 ANTARCTIC Decembcf, 19511 I Mr. Heinc is making his. third trip TO ALL SURSCRIBliJl~S to the Antarctic. He was an observer With the present issue, No. 12, we with the 1956-57 I.G.Y. summer party end Volume 1 of "Antarctic". which helped to establish Scott Base and took part in geological work on INDEX the Skelton Glacier. He and Mr. Fitz- A comprehensive index is being · gerald were members of the 1957-58 prepared, and will be available for party. purchase by readers. Details in next UNIVERSITY PARTY (March, 1959) issue. A group of four scientists organised BINDING · by the Victoria University of Welling­ An'angements are being finalised ton left Lyttelton on November 15 to for an attractive uniform binding. spend about three months in the Subscribers will be notified of the Wright Dry Valley area. address to which their twelve num­ bers should be forwarded for binding Dr. C. Bull, the physicist, is the at an extremely moderate charge. This · only one of the four not born in New cost will include the binding-in of the Zealand. This will be Dr. Bull's first index, which must first be purchased visit to the Antarctic, but he has from the Secretary. already visited the Arctic with three expeditions, in 1951, 1952-54, and FOR SALE 1955. The Secretary, New Zealand Ant­ The two geologists, Messrs. B. C. arctic Society, has for sale for a short McKelvey and P. N. Wehb, spent last time a limited number of copies of summer in the Antarctic, and Mr. R. the "BIBLIOGRAPHY OF ANTARCTIC E. Barwick, the zoologist, the two LITERATURE" prepared by Mr. W. previous summers. Tanzer. This 59-page bibliography lists all Antarctic material (books and BY HELICOPTER articles) available in New Zealand The party will fly to Scott Base in Libraries. Price 2/6. an American aircraft and then be transported by helicopter to Wright · Dry Valley, on the' other side of McMurdo Sound and about 100 miles SPACE ... AND THE ANTARCTIC .from the New Zealand Antarctic base. Australian scientists contemplating Of necessity, the expedition will the development of Woomera into the travel "light", as all the equipment British Commonwealth's first "space must be ferried in by the helicopter, port" for the firing of space rockets and will then have to be carried as are thinking hard about the value of the party makes its survey in an un­ the Australian and New Zealand sec­ mapped area of some 2,000 square tions of Antarctica as suitable loca­ miles. tions for tracking devices, and pos­ sibly as providing a site for a "link" This will be the first non-Govern­ base. ment sponsored expedition to the region. The scientists express appre­ Space above Antarctica is relatively ciation of the help they have received free from dangerous upper radiation, from the Department of Scientific and which is repelled from the vicinity of Industrial Research, and the Ross the magnetic poles. So Antarctica Dependency Committee. would be the ideal place from which to launch a manned space vehicle. Dr. Bull said the eXj)edition had And no spot could be better from been made possible by the New Zea­ which to launch a satellite into a pole­ land University Research Grants to-pole orhit so that. it would com­ Council. pletely encircle the earth.

" ..y AlllARcrlC J2J Globemasters In Trouble Near Hallett Station What started out to he a routine airdJ'op mission for four V.S. Globemasters and a regular flight from Christchurch to McMurdo for a Navy U4]) ended in the first emergency landings of Operation ])eep Freeze IV. After the cargo planes had taken Colonel Barnick, another "visitor." off from McMurdo on October 9 the When more of the penguin's friends weather deteriorated and visibility came trooping across the ice to see was reduced to zero as the result of what had happened, Colonel Barnick a 30-40-knot wind combined with returned him to the flippers of his falling snow. relatives. The Navy "Skytrain" on its way to FATAL CRASH McMurdo was ordered to land at HaIlett Station because of the poor A United States Globemaster crash­ weather at McMurdo. As the Globe­ ed 30 miles north of Cape Hallett, masters returned to McMurdo after north-eastern Victoria Land, at ap­ air-drops at the Pole and Byrd Stations proximately 9 a.m. on October 16. it became apparent that landing at The Globemaster, on a flight from Williams air-field would be practically New Zealand to McMurdo with 17,000 impossible. The only alternative land­ pounds of timber, was about to drop ing-place was on the 9,OOO-foot ice mail at Hallett Station when it crashed runway at Hallett, 400 miles to the into a 1,700-ft. hill near Cape Roget north. But planes of this type had (72 0 05' S., 170 0 58' E.). never previously landed on the strip The seven survivors were in the and no instrument landing system flight deck and three of them were was available. Thus it was an ex­ seriously injured. All six in the cargo tremely hazardous operation. deck were killed. The R4D pilot stationed his aircraft Three weasels immediately set out in such a position beside the runway from Hallett Station with a doctor that he was able to "talk" the Globe­ and medical supplies, but were unable masters in, and all four landed safely to reach the site of the crash as the on the seven-foot thick ice. territory was "cruel and hostile" and Two days later, after fuel had been pockmarked with crevasses. Two flown to Hallett by two Navy Nep­ weasels were abandoned in crevasses. tunes, the stranded planes flew to Bad weather made rescue by air McMurdo in perfect weather. While . impossible until October 17, when a the guests of the 16 men at HaIlett helicopter reached the wrecked air­ Station. the 40 unexpected visitors craft and flew four of the survivors were treated "like visiting Royalty." to Hallett Station. Meanwhile, the On October 13 a Globemaster dropped seven men huddled in the wrecked a "thank-you" note at Hallett consist­ tail section of the plane. They lit a ing of 335 lb. of fresh provisions and fire in the casing in the aircraft's 255 lb. of mail. toilet, but it was so cold that even During the stranded airmen's "visit" hands could not be warmed. to HaIlett Station, the first penguin From the point of impact on the of the season arrived at HaIlett also. snow, the aircraft ploughed forward' He fell into the hands of Captain for 900 feet before it came to rest in 'Gozur, navigator of one of the Globe­ three parts. It was not carrying masters, who presented his captive to survival tents or stores. 324- ANTARCTIC December, 1958

The three injured men, onc wit.h A. W. BLACK (32), of Christ.church: frozen feet, were brought to Christ­ technician. Born at Bhristchurch; church, New Zealand, in another educated at Christchurch East Globemaster and admitted to hospital Primary School and Christchurch within 17 hours of being picked up at Technical College, he joined the the scene of the crash. The uninjured R.N .Z.A.F. in 1946 as a radio survivors were also flown to Christ­ mechanic and communications fitter church. They had been 25 hours on and served in Fiji during the 1952 the ice after the crash, in a tempera­ hurricane. He has been with the ture of 20° below zero. N.Z.B.S. at Gebbies Pass since 1956 as radio technician. He is interested in hockey and rowing, and as a HALLETT STATION hobby has experimented with tele­ The combined United States-New vision receivers and transmitters. Zealand scientific station at Cape Married, with two children. Hallett had its first air-drop of fresh The party will leave for Hallett on provisions early in October. During the "Arneb" on January 2. a return flight to New Zealand a Globemaster dropped fresh provisions, OLD MAN PENGUIN eggs, milk and mail. Brief reference was made in the September "Antarctic" to the radio­ NEW MEN carbon dating of a penguin corpse The new leader of the scientific dug up at Cape Hallett. In an party at Hallett, replacing New Zea­ article 'in the New Zealand Journal of lander K. J. Salmon, will be Mr. Geology and Geophysics (Vol. 1, No. Charles R. Roberts, a 36-year-old 3, Aug., 1958) H. J. Harrington and American meteorologist. 1. C. McKellar give further interest­ ing details. The three New Zealanders at Hallett The spit in Moubray Bay on which for the next year will be: Hallett Station is built extends for L. R. JONES, B.Sc. (31), of Auckland: half a mile into the bay and is occu­ scientific officer. Born at Auckland pied between late October and late and attended Seddon Memorial February by a population of nesting Technical College. He served a gen­ Adelie penguins estimated at between eral engineering apprenticeship and 70,000 and 200,000. The whole sur­ passed all the examinations of the face of the area is covered by a mass Institute of Mechanical Engineers. of guano, the bodies of penguins and After apprenticeship, he attended chicks, and pebbles used for nests. Auckland University part-time and A cut made by a bulldozer exposed graduated B.Sc. in mathematics. He 1 ft. 3 in. of pebbles, guano, flattened is keen on rowing and weight hard permanently frozen penguin bod­ lifting. ies and "the general debris of penguin B. E. REID, B.Sc. (28), of Auckland: occupation, overlying 2 ft. and more scientific officer. Born at Welling­ of clean beach gravel without organic ton; educated at Island Bay School remains. The penguin bodies are dry, and at Rongotai and Wellington and flattened to less than an inch in Colleges, he took a B.Sc. in zoology thickness." at Canterbury University. He worked One of them was taken from the with the N.Z. Forest Service for base of the layer of penguin accumu­ four years in North Island districts lation and its age determined by the and for the past three years has radio-carbon method as approximately been with the Fisheries Branch, 1,210 years. The rookery was there­ Marine Department, Auckland. Mr. fore probably first colonised between Reid will make a special study of abollt 600 and 700 A.D., at approxi­ the Adelie penguin colony and of mately the datc when t.he Vildngs the movement of seals. were mailing I hcir voyages. l\"'II\I~CrIC 325

lo see, the bird was much photo­ ,\VILKJES graphed during its short stay. On September 17 seven men left Interest in 'ice fishing' was re­ for the satellite station and on tra­ newed with the access of warmer verse. The trip to the satellite station weather, and fresh fish reappeared on took seven hours. Two men helped the menu. There was open water maintain radio contact with the tra­ within half a mile of the shore on verse party and to make weather November 10, and the sea beyond observations. was clear to the limit of visibility. It was reported on November 19 TRAVERSE SOUTH that the penguins had begun to lay­ The traverse party had two weasels and there were "enough for this morn· and a sno-cat pulling six sledges, in­ ing's breakfast." cluding a sleeping wanigan, with six By the beginning of December tem­ tons of supplies. The traverse was peratures above freezing point were expected to take about six weeks and frequent, but more falling snow kept to cover approximately 600 miles. The the snow level around the camp build­ plan was to travel south along long ings near roof level. During a short III ° 45' E. to lat. 69° 30' S., with a trip 27 Weddell seals, many with possible side trip. In addition to pups, were counted. In the two rook­ glaciological studies, mapping was eries 10,000 Adelie penguins were undertaken and weather observations counted. made. Wilkes kept in daily or bi-daily Dr. Rainer Goldsmith, a British radio contact with the traverse party. physiologist who spent the 1956 winter On September 22 they were 90 at Shackleton, is going to Wilkes on miles from camp and making good the "Staten Island" to solve the prob­ progress. lem "What causes the common cold?" The party was unable to find Mt. Fifty Navy men are acting as guinea­ Long (67° 12' S., HO° 30' E.?) or Davis pigs from whom "Rhino" takes regu­ Peak. They sighted the Davis Islets lar blood-samples and swabs. Once at the head of Vincennes Bay. (These one of the present cold-free, virus­ features were delineated from aerial free Wilkes party catches a cold after photographs taken on Operation High­ the arrival of the guinea-pigs, Dr. jump, 1946-47.) Goldsmith will be able to find out The traverse party had bad weather what virus has caused the cold. in early November, mostly with high winds, even though only 50 miles away from the main base, when at both Wilkes and the satellite station the weather was fine. They returned to Wilkes Station after eight weeks The inland station Charcot in Adelie on the trail. They travelled about Land will be closed at the conclusion 400 miles in the area south of the of I.G.Y., but D'Urville will continue base. All lost weight up to 10 Ibs. to operate on the same lines as previ­ ously with some small reductions in AT THE BASE the programme. The weather in early October was It is not planned to do any inland calder than last year but less windy, journey for seismic or gravimetric but later in the month there was a work. However, as part of I.G.Y. a temperature of 27° F. and early in gravimetric profile along meridian November 33°. This brought melting 140° E. will be done between October snow, and leaks. 1958 and January 1959. The first penguin of the season was Dr. Paul-Emile Victor is at present seen on October 10, an Emperor travelling to Adelie Land on the weighing 50 lb. and about three feet "Norsel" to inspect the French tall. Brought back to camp for all stations. 326 f-NTARCTIC December, 1958 SOVIET CROSSING PLANS HAVE BEEN MODIFIED Despite conflicting reports, it seems clear that the Russians have considerably altered their previously announced plans for trans-Antarctie journeys. It appears that the main tasl{s formerly head of the drifting station for the current season will be "North Pole 4" in the Arctic, where the attempted establishment of he has worked for 20 years. two new coastal stations, Laza­ The 2,800-mile, four-month trip rev and (possibly) the base in would be the longest ever made in the Bellingshausen Sea, and of Antarctica, he said. Sovietsl{aya in its final position; The Russians have built three spe­ combined with air and surface cial cabin tractors for the trek. The equipment and supplies are to sail reconnaissance and depot-laying aboard the diesel-powered ship "Ob" journeys in preparation for the from Kaliningrad and this will be great crossing in the 1959-60 followed later by the passenger vessel summer. Mikhail Kalinin. Speaking to American scientists in The 1959-60 journey will be from Washington early in October, Dr. M. Vostok to the U.S. base at the South Somov outlined this more conserva­ Pole, back to the projected Soviet tive programme. The initial crossing station at the Pole of Inaccessibility is not to begin until a year from now. and on to Queen Maud Land. This will enable the Russians to estab­ Dralkin's party will probably fly in lish Station Lazarev on the Princess from Mirny to Vostok to join the Astrid Coast of Queen Maud Land­ vehicles. Each caterpillar is fitted out the destination of the crossing-and with its own galley, bunks, laboratory scout out a tractor route to that point facilities and office. through the coastal mountains. "We have a big journey to make in the Antarctic," Dralkin says, "and we Subsequently a second crossing will are well aware of its difficulty." be made to the planned Bellingshausen Speaking at McMurdo, Dr. Tolsti­ Station on Thurston Peninsula. This kov, emphasising that these were his d' will also await the green light from personal views, said, "We may change those at the station who will first have our plans and work in a different to insure that the base can be reached region of the Antarctic as this would from the inland plateau. The establish­ be a greater contribution to Antarctic ment of this base will also await the research than covering an area already success of efforts by the "Ob" to under survey by the United States." penetrate the dangerously ice-filled With the United States expedition's Bellingshausen Sea. photographic reconnaissance and a A Moscow dispatch to the "New triangular traverse in Marie Byrd York Times" dated November 23, Land this season, it might be better sent as the Russians' fourth expedi­ for the Russians to concentrate on an tion was about to sail, quoted the entirely new area-a traverse from leader of the expedition, Mr. A. G. Mirny to Sovielskaya and back to Dralkin, M.Sc., a geographer, as say­ Mirny. ing that the cross-country trip would The hasic "inl or the lr:lverl'c IVal' not be started until carly October or In ohlain seisnlic rell(lin~s, and it next year, I!)!i!). Mr. IJrnlldn IV:IS \voldtl Ill' possihle In l'x(;lIi1I1):" IVh,,1 I)Ilc.ol1lb",.. 1(I~fI 1\ 1,1 I 1\ R C TIC 327 . - -.. _._------information each llalioll received ill was due to leave Mirny soon. When its regions of study, Dr. Tolstikov the two parties joined they would said. proceed further into the interior of At present the Soviet station Soviet­ the Antarctic. skaya was 400 miles from the pole All along the route the explorers of relative inaccessibility, and on the would conduct glaciological, seismic, traverse from Mirny an endeavour geophysical, and meteorological ob­ would be made to reach that pole and ervations. establish the station as planned. A press report dated October 10 said: "Twenty-four men have com­ VOYAGES PLANNED pleted a 225-mile sleigh-tractor jour­ Prof. Burkhanov has outlined the ney from Mirny to Pionerskaya. The proposed ship movements for this journey was completed in 13 days season as follows: across soft snow in temperatures In October the fourth expedition's reaching 50 degrees below zero. first ship, the diesel electric motor­ "The explorers will now split into ship "Lena", will set off from Kalinin­ two parties, the first heading south grad, heading for Queen Maud Land. into the frozen continent to carry out There the first Soviet team of a new research while the other returns to station to be called after Mikhail Mirny to collect further supplies." . Lazarev, the famous Russian naviga­ On October 30 it was reported that tor, will disembark. "six tractors" had arrived at Pioner­ After its call at the site for Lazarev skaya after traversing the 230 miles station, where a geological party will in five days. also be landed, the "Lena" will cruise along Antarctica's eastern coast, mak­ TRANS-POLAR FLIGHT ing oceanological investigations. A twin-engined Soviet plane landed The "Ob" also has a new route. at the U.S. base at McMurdo Sound After bringing the members of the on October 25. The plane, an Ilyushin expedition and cargoes to Mirny it IL-12 with tricycle landing gear, will set forth for western Antarctica, touched down at 9.49 a.m. after a where on the shores of the Bellings­ flight of nearly fourteen hours. hausen Sea yet another station will The plane had taken off at 7.55 p.m. be set up. from Mirny. and arrived over the The liner "Felix Dzerhinsky" will South Pole at 5.14 a.m.; it then went take part in this fourth expedition. on to McMurdo. Aboard this motor-ship, well adapted The purpose of the flight was to for navigation in the ice, will be the survey a route for the proposed trac­ members of the Antarctic expedition tor traverse in 1959-60. led by Dralkin. A month ago the United States Navy agreed to help the Soviet recon­ ON THE MOVE naissance flight by refuelling and Tass reported on September 29 servicing the plane at McMurdo that a party of Soviet explorers had Sound. left Mirny and proceeded deep into The Russian plane was reported to the Antarctic. The party, in five all­ have carried a crew of five and three purpose (Penguin) vehicles and four passengers, inclUding Eugene Tolsti­ tractors, left Mirny on September 27 kov, the Russian Antarctic programme for Pionerskaya. leader. The tractors and one of the Penguin After refuelling and servicing at vehicles was to return to Mirny, while McMurdo, the plane set off on the the rest of the party would continue 1,700-mile direct flight to Mirny. to Komsomolskaya. Moscow reported on September 1!J Here they would wait for the main that an IL-12 transport plane from party, consisting of 14 vehicles, which Mirny had made a 1,864-mile non- 328 ANTARCTIC December, 1958 stop flight lasting nine hours. The 6,000 kilometres (about 3,750 miles) aIrcraft dropped supplies and equip­ will be made across a tableland of ment at two bases before going on to ice. The Soviet explorers intend to Oasis and back to Mirny. Observa­ complete the great journey in four tions were carried out en route to months. It will take them from the determine the height of the ice Vostok station, where all the neces­ plateau. sary equipment will be brought from It is expected that Pionerskaya will Mirny well in advance, to the geo­ be closed down in January, 1959. graphical South .Pole, across the pole Sovietskaya, when finally established of relative inaccessibility to the shores in its position at or near the Pole of of Queen Maud Land, where they will Inaccessibility (82 0 S., 50 0 E.), will link up with the team of the new probably be a secondary station Lazarev station. manned only in summer. The expedition will have four trac­ tors. In front will be a small machine, POLE OF INACCESSillILlTY already down in the Antarctic, called the Penguin, which manoeuvres well Dr. Somov has revealed that the and has already proved worthy of its area described as the Pole of Inacces­ task. The main equipment and the sibility is heavily crevassed. The area members of the expedition will be is near the crest of a dome-shaped carried by three powerful tractors, plateau of ice that blankets the Ant­ specially constructed for the purpose. arctic hinterland. To establish Lazarev Station, the It had been found to be utterly "Lena" will have to penetrate heavy featureless by both Soviet and Ameri­ ofT-shore pack-ice and land supplies can aerial explorers, rising to almost on a treacherous coast. To reach it, 14,000 feet at its highest point about when the crossing takes place, tde 9,000 miles from the sea. No peak is tractor train will have to cross or known to break the surface anywhere outflank one of the most precipitous in this vast region, but multiple cleav­ ranges in the Antarctic, the Wohlthat age of the ice near its summit sug­ Mountains. Lying immediately north gests that a great mountain range lies of the polar plateau in the eastern buried there. part of New Schwabenland, and cen­ 0 Dr. Somov said aerial surveys had tering on about 71 30' S., 11 0 30' E., indicated that the actual summit of the range was discovered from the the ice was midway between this air by the German Antarctic Expedi­ area and the present location of toin under Ritscher, 1938-39, but has Sovietskaya, the most remote of the never been visited. Tt has wall-like outposts. Hence it is proposed, in the escarpments. coming weeks, to shift Sovietskaya about 220 miles to that summit, rather GIANT TRACTORS than the 440 miles to the Pole of Machine-builders of the Ukrainian Inaccessibility as originally planned. city of Kharkov have manufactured This would somewhat revise the three tractors for the fourth Soviet transcontinental tractor route, which expedition. is due to run from Station Vostok, to These snow tractors, each eight the South Pole, to the new site of metres long and four metres wide, Sovietskaya, and then to Queen Maud represent not only an excellently­ Land. Dr. Somov emphasised that the eqUipped scientific laboratory, but also feasibility of the traverse was still a comfortable travelling home. "uncertain" and that it might not be The total weight of a tractor is 34 completed for three years. tons. The track is onc metre wide. The specific pressure of this gigantic ICE CAP TREK tractor per sq. cm. is half of man's. For the first time in the history of The two-metre lull cuhin is muc.!c Antarctic exploration a journey or frum durallllllin wil'h special heat. in· A~IIARC'IIC 329

sulatioll. I t has a lIoor space of :32 mOlld-hearing deposits of South Africa sq. metres. Every lrncLor has a cab and the norLhern part of the Yakutsk for the mechanic-driver, a mess room, Republic in the U.S.S.R. These consist a bedroom for eight, a kitchen with of hundreds of steep veins of com­ an electric stove, a navigator's cab, paratively young karroo dolerites, a radio station, a section for drying cropping through crystalline shales. clothes, a snow melter for obtaining An immense layer of this shale, water, wash-room, etc. All the roughly ten miles thick, was exam­ premises will be heated by warm air. ined and proved to be one of the Small electric stations have been oldest such strata on earth. The iron mounted on the tractors. deposits were in veins of tegmatite The engines have a capacity that connected with enormous granite is 120 h.p. greater than previous formations. Antarctic tractors. Taking into account \ the experience of earlier Antarctic THE PENGUINS PANICKED expeditions, the designers created a Dr. M. Somov, who led the first of motor with special supercharging pro­ the series of Soviet expeditions to the viding the steady and economic opera­ Antarctic, recently told U.S. scientists tion of the engine even at an altitude about a disaster in the penguin world of 4,500 km. aoove sea Jevel when near Mirny. atmospheric pressure is low. Emperor penguins lay their eggs on This tractor will have a fuel tank ice and then brood them, embedded twice the size of that of former trac­ in folds of flesh in the abdomen. They tors. In addition, every one will have have no fear of anything approaching a 20-ton fuel tank trailer. Such an on the surface-even the most fear­ amount of fuel will be sufficient for some tractor. But this nonchalance the entire four-months' trip from did not apply to something in the air. Mirny to Vostok, and then on to the The Russians found a rookery geographic pole, the pole of inacces­ whose population was estimated at sibility, and the final point on the about 20,000, all brooding. To make coast of Queen Maud Land, Lazarev an accurate count, the Russians Station. sought to obtain an aerial photo, but IRON DISCOVERED when the plane came over, "thousands In an article by Prof. M. Ravich it of the birds panicked," Dr. Somov is claimed that the Russians have said. discovered "rich veins of excellent As a result, the ice was covered iron ore" in the Antarctic. with scrambled eggs and further at­ Russian scientists over the past tempts at aerial photography were two years, he says, have surveyed an abandoned. So, warned the Professor, area from Queen Maud Land almost fly high over brooding penguins. to Victoria Land. Using planes and helicopters, geologists have landed on TO PLAN RESEARCH ice-free oases and in the foothills of The U.S.S.R. Academy of Sciences mountain ranges where rock is ex­ is organising an Inter-Departmental posed. In this way they have exam­ Commission for Antarctic Research. ined the rock-structure of mountain Besides institutes of the Academy, peaks normally quite inaccessible. No the Commission will include the Cen­ details are given regarding the exact tral Northern Sea Route Administra­ location of the iron-ore discoveries. tion, the Central Weather Forecasting In addition, reports Prof. Ravich, Administration and several universi­ boulders left by ice which has now ties. The Arctic Institute in Leningrad, retreated give evidence of a large which has accumulated enormous ex­ iron-ore basin beneath the ice shelf. perience in polar research, has been The Russians also claim to have renamed the Arctic and Antarctic found formations similar to the dia- Institute. 330 ANTARCTIC December, 1958 SPRING COMES TARDILY TO AUSTRALIAN ANTARCTIC BASES

Jan Adams reported from Mawson on September 2: "During August we had almost a us are quite proud of the results. Lin week of calm sunny weather and was determined to beat the rigorous although temperatures were lower Antarctic winter and the handicap of than ever the peace from continual no garage so he set to work, and winds was welcomed. Nevertheless, after digging the Ferguson out of the winter showed its bite by producing snow, disconnected the radiator and a short but severe blizzard when the connected up his patent heat ex- wind again exceeded 100 m.p.h. changer, consisting of a four-galIon "Amongst the notable occurrences tin of antifreeze and an immersion recently are the forced landing and heater. After several hours heating subsequent rescue of the aircraft (it and together with hot oil the Ferguson now has a new engine and is ready was a going concern, but not for long to fly again); Bolza's successful climb- because our dog Nellie decided she ing of Mt. Hordern, a classical and would like a meal of spark plug leads. difficult peak 20 miles inland; and This was soon repaired and after a the discovery of a new Emperor pen- little surveying a drift-free track to guin rookery during a flight to Davis. the sea-ice was discovered and now Four years ago there were only five we are in business." known rookeries in the world. Now we have six within 300 miles of OCTOBER JOURNEYS Mawson." October was an eventful month at After a visit to Taylor rookery Mawson. The five-man seismic party Fischer returned with three Emperor under Ian Adams left on September chicks which had been abandoned by 30 in two tractors and one weasel for their parents. One died but the other the Prince Charles Mountains. two are as lusty-voiced as any baby Owing to the bad weather, the until fed by syringing food down their party was only able to travel for 18 throats. hours in seven days. Then one of the AT DAVIS D4 tractors became jammed in a From Davis Station, TrigwelI re­ crevasse 36 miles from Mawson. ported on September 7: Adams and Jesson remained with the "OfficialIy spring is upon us but at tractor while Smith, Brown and Blake Davis somebody forgot to tell the wea­ returned to Mawson in the second ther man because although there were tractor and the weasel for salvage no real blizzards during August the gear. However, the second D4 tractor last week has been nothing but wind became stranded in a wide, deep and drifting snow. However, we are frozen melt-water stream on the re­ looking forward to the spring with its turn journey, and the returning party associated sunshine and clear calm pushed on to Mawson by weasel. days. The maximum temperature for The second stranded vehicle was . the month was 21.5 0 F. whilst the salvaged two weeks later, after 35 minimum was 57.5 degrees of frost tons of ice had been dug away, and with a mean relative humidity of 62 then went to the rescue of the first per cent. tractor. The recovery of this tractor "Much hard work has been done was extremely difficult, partly because since the last report and I:he three of of blizzurds ancl "white out" wcathcr AIIIARCTIC.n...... _....__... .. 331_

(.:olldilioIlS. bul. ;llso bccausc uf I.hc "Our hearts have been gladdened," lack of a suitable surface for the radioed Channon on November 1, "by tracks of the second tractor to grip signs of the spring thaw. Pools of on, and the acute angle at which the water are beginning to collect in the jammed vehicle had come to rest in camp area. Skuas and petrels are a crevasse. But by using four two­ returning and Adelie penguins are ton chain blocks and digging out vast staking out their claims in the island quantities of ice and snow, the tractor rookeries and filling the air with was at last hauled out of the crevasse raucous cries. They steal pebbles on October 30 and the party was able from each other's nests and squabble to resume its journey, which is ex­ and indulge in their mating rituals. pected to take about four months. The seals are also pupping and the After 370 miles the party will have to dogs relish the return of fresh meat cut a new, uncharted path through though only adult male seals are shot. the rugged Prince Charles mountains. "Taylor Station has been closed, Most of the route is above 9,000 feet. bringing to an end the parallactic The purpose of the trek is to make auroral photographic programme. further measurements of the thickness Fischer with willing helpers is rearing of the polar ice-cap. an abandoned Emperor penguin chick which is thriving on a diet of kippers." AIR SUPPORT The flying programme was now RUSSIAN VISITORS under way though the weather was A Soviet Ilyushin 12 aircraft, carry­ hindering operations. After one bliz­ ing five scientists and a crew of six, zard, a very large drift blocked the paid a four-hour visit to Mawson on entrance to the hangar. It took the September 28. working party a whole day to clear it The five scientists included Mr. away with shovels, tractor and a Tostikov, the leader of all Soviet scoop-improvised by Hichardson from Antarctic stations and a veteran of a 44-gallon drum. Arctic ddfting stations, Mr. Ostrekin, Supplies for a dog sled party were the Chief Scientist, and Mr. Bugaev, flown to the Leckie and Wanti Depots. the Chief Meteorologist respectively Astrofixes and magnetic readings at Mirny. were taken by Knuckey and Cook The Australians had already met respectively. Grove, returning from the visitors when the Australian ship Davis to Mawson, landed at Mt. "Thala Dan" called at Mirny on Rivett, the site of the forced landing February 1. earlier this year. and recovered films and gear. Knuckey, McLeod and Old­ ACTIVITY AT DAVIS field were flown to Beaver Lake, about 200 miles south of Cape Darnley. They At Davis Station the equinox was were surprised to find that the sur­ associated with a blizzard and heavy face of the ice rises and falls three drifting snow but by the 25th the feet twelve-hourly. In brackish water weather had cleared up and the Beaver welling from a crack they discovered arrived from Mawson next day with minute shrimp-like creatures swim­ Grove, Manning and Elliott. Elliott is ming. In another part of the lake the remaining at Davis until the change­ ice masses resemble overturned ice­ over. bergs. Maximum temperature for the month was 20 0 F.; minimum temperature, FURTHEST SOUTH 54.3 degrees of frost and the mean Wilson with Knuckey and McLeod relative humidity 64 per cent. The flew to 74 0 20' S. to make an astrofix Ferguson was kept mobile all the and carry out a geology survey. This month and transported dieseleum air­ is the furthest south reached in this craft fuel and regularly disposed of sector. the garbage, etc. 332 ANTARCTIC December, 1958

. While the aircraft was depoting fuel in the Prince Charles Mountains the Davis men took turns to fly in BELGIANS BUSY and see some of the ice continent. . The second Belgian Expedition left Although conditions. were somewhat Ostend on November 15 on the Nor­ hazy the mountains were visible from wegian ice-breaker "Polarhav". A many miles away. few hours after the initial sailing the vessel put back because the expedi­ RELIEF PLANS tion's three sno-cats were found to be badly stowed. "Thala Dan" is scheduled to leave for Mawson and Davis on December At the beginning of August very 26. "Magga Dan" is due to depart for low temperatures were recorded at Wilkes on January 5. Before going on Roi Baudouin Base, between - 49° F. to Wilkes it will call in at Lewis and - 22° F., but for the rest of the Island to service the automatic wea­ month temperatures ranged from ther station there. It is expected that - 31 ° F. to 2° F. There were 12 days the ship will stay at Wilkes about of blizzard. Snow drifts had almost ten days and then explore the coast completely covered the base. of Oates Land before returning to SNO-CAT RECOVERED Australia. Mr. P. G. Law will lead the expedition. ,When Hulshagen had put the base sno-cat into operational condition, a NEW LEADERS journey was made to Breid Bay to The following will lead the new dig out the sno-cat left there in the parties at Australian Antarctic bases: autumn. A party of five set out on August 18, and returned safely with Mawson: J. M. Bechervaise (48), a both vehicles on the 20th. teacher and mountaineer who was It was proposed, if weather per­ leader of the Heard Island group in mitted, to begin the season's opera­ 1953 and of the Mawson party in tions with a two-man trek on October 1955. 10. The two sno-cats would follow Davis: H. O. Steiger (36), a Swiss­ on October 20, and the plane and heli­ born teacher who came to Australia copter would fly out to the field in 1951. parties on October 30, contacting them Wilkes: W. R. J. Dingle (37), who at the depot set up at the foot of the has the unique record of having spent mountains last March. From there, a term at each of the four Australian Giot and Picciotto would explore the bases, Mawson, Davis, Heard, and range, while Gerlache, Loodts de Macquarie. Ligne, HuJshagen, Vanderheiden and Macquarie Island: T. R, Horwood Cm'els would set out on the recon­ (29), an ex-Army Major with Korean naissance of another mountain chain service, turned banana-grower. with peaks rising to 3,000 ft. situated some 180 miles to the south-east. An The total wintering-over personnel earlier reconnaissance party got to at Australian stations, 1959, will be the foot of the range and set up sur­ 65, comprising 23 at Mawson, 17 (14 vey poles in temperatures of - 31 ° F. Australians and 3 Americans) at September brought bad weather Wilkes, 8 at Davis, and 17 at Mac­ which hindered outdoor work and quarie Island. entailed much labour in removing the From November 18 to 23 men, accumulation of snow on buildings sledges and dogs were flown to a and equipment. The average tempera· mountainous area behind Amundsen ture was - 6° F. Bay, 350 miles west of Mawson. From Three men who left on September here they will sledge hack to hnse. I1 hy sllo-cn\: for I.eopolc! III Dny December, 1958 ANTARCTIC were held up by a blizzard for six days. Japanese' Set Out lfhe Japanese vessel "Soya" left JOURNEYS BEGIN Japan on November 12 to re-establish October's average temperature was the Japan base Showa on Ongul Island 3° F., with a period of fine weather in Lutzow-Holm Bay in Queen Maud between October 10 and 20. During Land, which was built in January, this time the vehicles were readied, 1957, and occupied the following but a fault in the transmission of one winter. Ice conditions prevented the of the two sno-cats necessitated its re-manning of the base last summer. replacement by a Muskeg tractor for Professor Takeshi Nagata is the leader the journey south. of the expedition, which comprises 36 The helicopter had to be dug out scientists and technicians. from under two metres of snow. Both A press report states that among helicopter and plane were test-flown the goods loaded were twenty hula successfully. On a reconnaissance hoops. The "Soya" carries four heli­ flight the mountains 250 miles to the copters and amphibian transport. south-east of the base were sighted. Japanese scientists working' on records brought back by the 1957 Loodts and Cabes were landed by party claim that "quite rich" deposits helicopter on October 20 at a bay of pitchblend were discovered near east of King Leopold Bay, but were­ the base. confined to their small tent by a The, Government plans to. spend blizzard for four days. They had to another £1,500,000 on Antarctic ex­ re-pitch the tent during the height of ploration and research, the storm to prevent its being com­ pletely snowed-in. The dog teams set out on October Gerlnan IP'llans 17. The vehicles (one sno-cat and the Muskeg) left on the 29th. Eight miles The private German expedition be­ south of the base a sudden worsening ing organised by Dr. Karl Herrlig­ of the weather compelled a halt, but koffer is scheduled to leave from a on November 3 the tractors caught German North Sea port on the char­ up with the dogs at the foot of the tered vessel "Kista Dan" in October mountains. The two aircraft were to next year. It is hoped to land the fly out to them as soon as they reached expedition on the coast between 3° the fuel depot established in March. and 7° W. The ship is to remain over whiter, and to bring the party home in the following (1960) autumn. FOLK BACK HOME Research is planned in geo-magne­ For an hour each day the seventeen tism, atmospheric electricity, iono­ members of the Belgian Antarctic ex­ sphere, geology, geodesy and meteoro­ pedition can talk with their families logy, with attention also to physiology "back home" through the short-wave and zoology. A team of 12 technicians station at Jurbise, near Mons, and the to work with the scientists will in­ Belgian telephone system. Command­ clude men experienced in polar work. ant de Gerlache held a press confer­ The expedition has issued a set of ence in September in which from his four attractive "stickers" picturing the King Balidouin base, where the tem­ German Antarctic expeditions of Dry­ perature was - 32.8° F., he answered galski (1901-03), Filchner (1911-12), for over an hour the questions of and Ritscher (1938-39) and a map of journalists gathered at the expedi­ the area, Neu Schwabenland, where tion's Brussel office on a hot summer it is proposed to establish the base. day. Those interested should contact An American ice-breaker is due to Deutsches Institut fur Auslandsfor­ call at King Baudouin Base in schung, Munchen. Plinganserstrasse December. 1420/1, Germany. 3H 1\~~TI\RCTIr: nnc,nfllbl)f, 1'15l1 NORWAY STATION WILL BE ACTIVE FOR ANOTHER YEAR As mentioned in our June issue, a topographical survey is to be carried out this season from Norway Station in the region between 0° and 15° E., and perhaps, time permitting, further east.

The Norwegian Government ing dog sledges, to complete the has now decided to continue measurements started last year. The scientific work in the Antarctic expedition leader, the leader of Nor­ way Station, geodesist of Norsk Polar­ another year, so that the season institutt, Sigurd Helle, will also con­ 1959/60 will also be included in tinue his geodetic field work, as soon .the investigation programme. as his party has been brought there by the Otters. On November 1, the expedition ship, Ten members of the party of 14, the Norwegian sealer M/V "Polar­ wintering at Norway Station the last bjorn," Captain Henrik Maro, left Oslo two years, will return home, but Helle with the "Otter" aircraft and the per­ will stay another year, together with sonnel' for the air-mapping excursions. the meteorologist Torgny Vinje, radio The expedition for this task is headed technician John Snuggerud and mech­ by engineer Bernhard Luncke, topo­ anician Henry Bjerke. Five new mem­ grapher with Norsk Polarinstitutt. bers, going south now, will join the Others participating are geologist wintering party for 1959-60: the Thore Wisnes of Norsk Polarinstitutt, meteorological observers Kaare Han­ whose essential task will be the deter­ sen and Jan-Pel' Madsen, wireless mination of passpoints in the field operator Knut Odegaard, meteorologi­ by means of a recently supplied tellu­ cal assistant Astor Ernstsen and stew­ rometer, and Sigurd Svindland, engi­ ard Rolf Johnson. These nine men neer and topographer with Wideroes will go on with much the same LG.Y. Aviation Company. The latter will, investigation programme as is now together with Mr. Luncke, carry out being attended to: meteorological the air photography. The two Otter observations with the launching of planes, with a' personnel of nine, are radio sondes twice a day, radiation loaned by the Norwegian Air Force, measurements, magnetic observations. with Major Gudmund Odden in com­ ozone measurements and aurora mand. australis photography. The Director of Norsk Polarinstitutt After the vessel has left the barrier, expects the vessel to reach the barrier not later than February 15, further at about 2° 30' W. some time in the opportunities for glaciological or middle of December. A hut barrack topographical work are not expected. will be erected immediately on the ice, also a runway, so that the photo­ graphic flights and transportation of .the geodetic parties may start as soon ROSS DEPENDENCY GROWING ,'as possible. It is the intention to Two previously uncharted islands have the vessel stay at the barrier for have been discovered in Terra Nova 'about two months, to render possible Bay (74 0 45' S., 1640 15' E.) in the 'a most exhaustive surveying work. Ross Dependency. They were sighted , Before the arrival of the vessel at by Capt. E. McDonald and Dr. Henry ,Norway Station, a glaciological party Dater while flying in the helicopter will have departed eastwards, carry- from V.S.S. "Glacier". Docember, 1958 ANTARCTIC 335

Two parties from Hope Bay have workeq on the cast coast of Graham F.I.D.S. Stations Land and on James Ross Island.. In Sir Raymond Priestley, who has mid-September two parties of 'geolo­ been acting as Scientific Director of gists left Base E and travelled south F.LD.S. during the absence of Sir together to the Refuge Islets. They Vivian Fuchs, is leaving the U.K. on then split up, one party working in November 27 and flying to New Zea­ the B1ackwall Mountains and the land, where he will join Deep Freeze other proceeding southwards to Mush­ IV as British Observer. Sir. Raymond room Island with a support party will not be retiring from his F.LD.S. which returned to base via the Wordie activities as he has been made a Ice Shelf. permanent 'member of the F.LD.S. Firm sea ice in Penola Strait enabled Scientific Committee and is also chair­ parties from the Argentine Islands to man of the new U.I<. National Com­ cross to Cape Tuxen on the mainland. mittee for Antarctic Research organ­ At Base J on the Graham Coast an : ised as a component of S.C.A.R by attempt was made to cross Holtedahl the Royal Society. Sir Vivian Fuchs Bay but bad sea ice conditions forced will be returning to FJ.D.S. at the both sledges to return to base after beginning of January. two days in the field. Three ships have now sailed to The bad weather also hampered relieve the bases. The "Shackleton" work by two field parties from Base sailed from Southampton on October W, Loubet Coast. They returned to 1 with 16 new recruits. Also on base on September 21, but left again board was Professor D. L. Linton, a few days later for the Briand Coast. Professor of Geography at Birming­ A new development in the 1958-9 ham University, who is touring the season will be the use of teIlurometers bases preparatory to undertaking a for .long-distance surveying. physiographic study of Graham Land using the photographs of the 1955-7 air survey. Now Poland The "John Biscoe" sailed on Octo­ Poland indicated at the S.C.A.R ber 21 with another 16 men for the meeting in August her wish to par­ bases, and two hydrographic surveyors ticipate in future Antarctic explora­ who have been seconded from the tion (see "Antarctic", No. 11). Royal Navy to work at South Georgia Tass reported on September 14 during the summer months. The ship that talks were going on about joint is also carrying a large new hut and work with Polish scientists. It had aircraft hangar for Stonington Island, been suggested that the Soviet Union •c Marguerite Bay (Base E). should hand over two of its Antarctic The "Tottan", which has again been stations to Poland. chartered for the relief of Halley Bay, A later Tass report, dated December sailed from Southampton on Novem­ 7, stated that Russia had given Poland ber 21. As announced in the June her Oasis Station, 225 miles east of issue of "Antarctic", F.LD.S. will take Mirny. Studies of the weather, ozone over Halley Bay at the end of the content of the atmosphere, glaciology, year and it will in future be known seismology and geomagnetism are as Base Z. The new base leader will carried out at Oasis. be Lieut. G. R Lush, RN., who was The first Polish scientists will go to a member of the I.G.Y. advance party the station this year. in 1956. The eleven other recruits include two South African meteoro­ At the Geneva conference on de­ logists, one of whom spent a year on tecting nuclear explosions, the techni­ Marion Island. cal experts came to the conclusion that 160 control posts would be re, NEWS FROM TilE BASES quired on land and tcn on ships. Of Field work from the sledging bases the continental posts, four would be has continued in spite of bad weather. in thc Antarctic. JJb ANTARC·IIC

CHILEAN nA-S·I~S NEW ARGENTINE The 1958 Chilean bases will con­ tinue in operation this year, and "Riso­ REFUGE HUT patron", in· the ·Marguerite Bay area, A party from the General San Mar­ which was destroyed by fire on March tin army base has constructed a new 10 of this year, will be re-built. Mean­ refuge-hut in southern Graham Land, while, the Gonzalez Videla Base 180 km. south of the base. Named (65° 09' S., 63° 12' W.) will serve as "Nogal de Saldan" after a historic the "mother station". New investiga­ walnut tree in the Spanish place of tions in geomagnetism, cosmic rays, the same name, under which San Mar­ geology, chemistry, biochemistry and tin rested after giving up the com­ bioclimatology are planned. mand of the Northern Army, the In addition to the usual range of refuge-hut is situated 20 km. south­ scientific studies at Antarctic stations, east of Cape Jeremy (69° 24' S., Chile plans considerable biological 68° 51' W.) facing Alexander I Island. work, including the systematic collec­ The construction of the hut took tion of plankton at previously estab­ 53 days of hard work in temperatures lished stations at different seasons, below - 58° F. The journey to the weather permitting; population, feed­ site was partly over sea-ice and the ing, ·nesting and migration studies of party had to drag its sledges across bird-life; ecological study of the lit­ .the mainland by a pass between moun­ toral, and studies of fish and marine tains 1,000 m. above sea-level. mammals. The refuge-hut was inaugurated on Practical aspects of the proposed September 26. It will serve as a Chilean chemical and biochemical re­ starting-point for future journeys in search programme include a study of the area. possible products from local fauna Argentina will take over the Ameri­ (skins, soap, dyes, etc.), the nutritive can-built Ellsworth Station as a going possibilities of penguins, sea leopards, concern on December 31. etc. (analysis for protein, fat, sugar), the practicability of producing fish­ NAVAL TRAGEDY meal, and the nutritive possibilities of When the Navy vessel "Guarani" fish, algae, and molluscs. was endeavouring to push south in The Chilean icebreaker "Piloto mid-October to bring help to a sick Pardo" has been launched, and will man at one of the Argentine bases, it shortly be handed to the Chilean crew foundered with the loss of 36 lives. already in Holland. She is presently The sick man was eventually taken undergoing her trials, and will pos­ off by the Argentine ice-breaker sibly arrive in Valparaiso in Decem­ "General San Martin". ber. On her arrival and incorporation An Argentine Navy doctor and two into the Chilean fleet, her head­ sailors from the Almirante Brown quarters will first be Punta Arenas, Base (64° 53' S., 62° 52' W.) rowed 28 and later she will be used as the miles in a small boat in September to flagship of future Chilean expeditions answer an emergency call from the to the southern seas. British base at Port Lockroy (64°51'S., The Chilean flotilla to leave in 63°31'W.), where one of the base November for the Antarctic will be members had acute appendicitis. He composed of the transport "Rancagua" was to be taken to the Argentine base (temporary flagship) and the tenders "Lientur" and "Leucoton", which will carry the supplies to the garrisons there. After the present relief, the beginning of April next year. These "Piloto Pardo" is supposed to take vessels will carry materials for the over. The flotilla is expected to re­ rebuilding of the two bases that were main in the Antarctic .until March or burned last year. Decomber, 195B ANTARCTIC 337 for further treatment as soon as the one Dutch are proceeding to the whal­ weather permitted. ing grounds.

THE "CAPITAN CANEPA" CONCERN The Argentine oceanographical ves­ The world's five major whaling sel "Capitan Canepa" left Buenos countries began talks in London on Aires on August 28 to carry out a November 20 on the question of limit­ cruise in the Atlantic in accordance ing the number of expeditions. Repre­ with I.G.Y. plans. The vessel aimed sentatives attended from Britain, Hol­ to follow the route taken by the land, Japan, Norway and the U.S.S.R. British Antarctic research vessel "Dis­ The conference was called by the covery 11" in 1930, along the meridian British Ministry of Agriculture in an 30° W. between latitudes 50° S. and attempt to conserve the stock of 22° S., studying en route the oceanic whales in Antarctic waters. waters from the surface to the ocean Norway has threatened to withdraw depths. from the convention if agreement can­ The cruise was estimated to last not be reached to prevent an increas­ for 50 or 60 days and to cover 8 to ing number of expeditions engaging 9,000 miles. It is the third I.G.Y. in the whale hunt. At present only cruise of the "Capitan Canepa". the total catch is limited. Last season The first station of the projected Norway's nine expeditions caught profile was north of South Georgia at 5,598 whales, but Russia's single ex­ a distance of approximately 2,100 pedition caught 1,563, and a "bigger miles east of Rio GaJlegas. The ship and better" Soviet factory-ship is was then to proceed to the north. being built.

WHALERS AWAY WHALING SKYSCRAPER For twelve years the whaling flotilla Twenty whaling fleets are on their "Slava" has been making trips to the way south. Antarctic. Although whales are also A Russian flotilla of 18 vessels left hunted there by Norwegian, Dutch, Odessa early in November. The fac­ British, Japanese and other whalers, tory·ship "Slava" and 17 diesel-electric the expanses of the southern waters chasers comprise the fleet, which has have not yet been exhausted. A new two helicopters for air-surveys. All whaling ship, "Sovetskaya Ukraina", the chasers are equipped with new is being built by the Nosenko Ship. double·recoil harpoon guns. The fleet yards of Nikolayev. This ship will be is experimenting with a combination among the biggest in the world. Her of line and caprone electric cable, kiJl­ displacement will be about 44,000 ing the whale by an electric current. tons, and her height will equal that Seven Japanese chasers called in at of a ten-storey house. Fremantle, Western Australia, on The "Sovetskaya Ukraina'~ exceeds November 14 for oil bunkers and the "Slava" not only in size, but also provisions. The ships are to rendez­ in navigation and production quali­ vous in the Antarctic with the former ties. Her modern navigation equip­ Greek-owned factory-ship "Olympic ment will enable her to move in any Splendour", now re-named "Kyoku weather.. Yo Maru". Five Japanese whaling fleets left Japanese ports on Novem­ ber 2 and a sixth on November 16. S.C.A.R. Nine Norwegian fleets, employing Thc next meeting of S.C.A.R., the nearly 7,000 men, left Norway in late Special Committee for Antarctic Re· October. search, is to be held in Canberra In aclclition, three British flects and from March 2 to March 6. 338 ANTARCTIC Docornbor, 1'758 OPERATION DEEP FREEZE IV SWINGS INTO ACTION Although the United States is handing over control of Wilkes Station to Australia and of Ellsworth Station to Argentina, and Little America V is to be 'de-activated',· Dr. Thomas O. Jones, Director of the U.S. Antarctic Research Programme, foresees "a vastly expanded programme of scientific research in the Antarctic," " with emphasis 011 the study of glaciers, the effect of Antarctica on the world's weather and upper atmospheric effects on communications. The first aircraft to fly south this lation which made the 2,147 nautical season was Admiral Dufek's Sky­ mile journey from McMurdo to Christ­ master, which left Invercargill at church in eight hours, twenty-eight 1.56 a.m. on October 1 and arrived minutes. at McMurdo at 2.30 p.m. just as a Air Force flights for the season turbulent storm hit the area. The ice ended on November 13. A few more runway was in excellent shape. But flights were made by Navy aircraft U.S.S. "Brough", on picket half-way before the ice began to break up. between New Zealand and Antarctica, Flying will resume when the ice was buffeted by a severe storm with freezes again in February. 35-foot waves which damaged the Although several other New Zealand hull and carried away an 80-foot radio cities, including Invercargill, offered antenna. facilities for the erection of the pro­ Globemaster flights from Christ­ posed permanent U.S. air base, it has church began on October 3. The first been decided to establish the base in of the M.A.T.S. (Military Air Trans­ Christchurch. The estimated cost is port Service) C-I24 (Globemaster) air­ in excess of $3,000,000. craft was air-borne at 7.45 p.m. and three more followed at two-hourly AIR DROPS intervals. Ice-expert Captain Jack Aerial re-supply of two inland Tomasch flew south to check the scientific bases was begun by the condition of the ice runway, which is United States Air Force on October 8. sited on 14 feet of old ice. Some of Admiral Dufek was aboard a Globe­ the taxi-ways and parking areas, how­ master which flew to the South Pole ever, are on new ice only 66 inches and dropped 16 tons of priority sup­ thick. plies and machinery parts. The last Two of the first four Globemasters airdrop at the South Pole was on returned to Christchurch but two re­ December 4, 1957. mained to carry out air-drop missions. A second Globemaster went to BYI'd A total of ten Globemasters were Station and dropped 16 tons of food assigned to Operation Deep Freeze and other supplies. The air force for the season. On one of the return planned 50 drop missions to the BYI'd flights to New Zealand the cargo in­ and Pole stations-750 tons of cargo. cluded the R.N.Z.A.F. Beaver aircraft The weather at the Pole was ex­ used so successfully last season by cellent with 30-mile visibility and no Sir Edmund HiIlary's party. It was cloud cover. At BYI'd, visibility was sent back for repairs and will go south 10 miles and the ceiling 10,000 feet. again on "Endeavour". BYI'd weather is usually characterised A record was set up on October by restricted visibility and low 13-14 by a Navy R7V Super-Constel- ceilings. Decomber, 1958 ANTARCTIC 339

By October 24, a month after their bour, Washington, D.C., and Balboa, arrival in New Zealand, the aircraft but with no success. had completed more than 50 per cent. of their cargo missions. By Novem­ ATOMIC POWER ber 10 only five drops of high priority A decision has been made to pro­ cargo remained to be carried out at vide nuclear power plants at American the Pole, and the air-drops at Byrd Antarctic bases. were completed. The aircraft had all The first atomic generator for heat returned to New Zealand by Novem­ and light will be installed at Mc­ ber 13, their task of dropping 886 Murdo Sound. Others will follow at tons of cargo completed. the South Pole, Byrd Station, and Cape Hallett. RADIO BLACI

At The American Stations LITTLE AMERICA carrying out. New Zealanders are On the first operational flight of joining the American ice-shelf traverse the season an R4D (Dakota) aircraft for various periods and four American left Little America's 'Kiel Field on scientists will work at Scott Base September 23 for McMurdo, 440 miles during 1958-59. away. At take-off the temperature When Little America closes down was - 45° r. with a IQ-knot wind early next year, the Aurora Tower from the S.S.E. Hours of arduous and much scientific equipment will work in temperatures as much as 60 be transferred to SCOlt Base. below zero were required to dig out During his visit Martin ha.d a daily the planes, mostly by the old "back session in the steam bath: see "Ant­ and shovel" method. Three local test arctic" No. 11, p. 307. flights were made before the inter­ station flight, as the aircraft had not ICE SHELF TRAIL flown since March 25. Major Merle Dawson, who recon­ Seven months' isolation ended with noitred the famous AI'my-Navy trail the arrival of the first plane "in". from Little America to ·Byrd Station, Among the new men was New Zea­ is responsible for the siting of the lander Lin Martin, Scott Base leader, trail from Little America across the who spent five days at Little America Ross .Ice Shelf to McMurdo, along conferring wilh Alherl. P. Crury and which the equipment being transferred ollwr scienlisl s on llw work which from Liltle America will be towed. Ih(: Iwo sllllions will t'(l-!IIH:rlllc in The trll iI will he IllU rked 1I t 1,nOO,foot 340 ANTARCTIC

intervals by 12-foot bamboo poles, The party was unable to continue and' every 20 miles by a snow calm until more supplies were flown In. topped with an empty fuel drum on The crevasse was 40 to 50 feet which the distance from Little America wide and a hundred feet long. Its is marked in 'luminous paint. ' depth could not be determined. Major Dawson hopes to complete (STOP PRESS) this task by mid-December. On Janu­ ary 20 he will accompany the tractor­ The eight-man team reached Mc­ train over the carefully planned route. Murdo on December 8, after a Seven sno-cats will precede the train "suspense-filled" journey lasting more of heavily loaded tractors, six of them than three weeks. being used as additional cargo car­ The first 400 miles were without riers, drawing light sleds. Once the incident, but after the accident on trail' is marked, the sno-cats should December I, crevasses kept the party make the journey in three or four on edge for 24 miles. One day the days and the tractor train in abput team moved only one and a half miles. a week. Major Dawson recommends that Major Dawson accompanied the the trail be used only for lighter science traverse for 127 miles across vehicles and that heavier equipment the ice shelf in October to gain first­ be brought by ship. hand knowledge of the terrain. He found that at least ten crevasses will BYRD have to be blasted and bridged before A 19-man, 9-vehicle tractor train the 38-.ton D-8 tractors can cross from Little America delivered 508,825 safely with their 20-ton sledge loads. lb. of cargo at Byrd Station on Octo­ A reconnaissance team of two D-8 ber 12 after a journey lasting seven­ tractors and a sno-cat left Little teen days in sub-zero temperatures. America on November 15 to cover The highest temperature was - 9° F. the 475-mile route to McMurdo, a job This was the fifth tractor train to which it is anticipated will take about make the journey since the trail was 30 days. blazed in November 1956. Four hun­ On November 29 the reconnaissance dred and eighty miles out, fires broke party was halted by a small crevassed out in the two sleeping wanigans, but area and bad weather. They were they were put out before any serious warned of the crevasses by Captain damage was caused. Robert J. Slagle who discovered the On the return journey leaving Byrd area the previous day while returning on October 24 the train broke the to McMurdo after a re-supply flight trail record by completing the 647­ to the team. The crevassed area lies mile journey on November 1 in eight some 40 miles to the east of McMurdo. days, two hours and 15 minutes. The tractor-men helped in the erection of NEAR TRAGEDY a rawin tower for the D.S. Antarctic Tragedy nearly struck the party on Research Programme which will begin December 1 when a D-8 tractor when I.G.Y. ends on December 31. crashed through a crevasse when only some 26 miles from McMurdo. Two N.A.A.F. ROCKFORD men in the tractor sustained minor Owing to the forthcoming "de­ injuries and were evacuated to Mc­ activisation" of Little America, in Murdo by air for medical attention. future Byrd Station will be supplied The tractor had made one traverse by air drops. In ~reparation for the over the crevasse' without incident, intensified air operations, the tractor but on the second crossing it crashed train on its outward journey left two 'through a 20-foot snow bridge into wanigans at a point 160 miles from the crevasse. With it went the train's Little America for the purpose of two supply sleds, scattering food and setting up a Naval Auxiliary Air fuel irretrievably over a wide area. Facility, N.A.A.F. Rockford, This December, 1958 ANTARCT C 341

facility will serve as an advanced nSlI1g for breakfast.. weather station and emergency land­ .They even played a game of base­ ing field for flights from McMurdo ball-in temperatures ti:J.at ranged to to Byrd. 90 degrees below zero Fahrenheit. At To complete Rockford, a tractor night they had a party. train will leave Little America early HOLE AT POLE in January with a communications U.S. scientists plan to drill a hole wanigan and hydrogen generator equipment for weather forecasting through the polar icecap about 10,OqO operations, one 0-4 tractor and a feet deep with an electrically-heated sno-cat, plus fuel and food supplies. hot tip drill. The hole, which will be about four Next year Rockford will be manned inches in diameter, will be by far the by a small party who will provide flight .information and weather reports. deepest hole ever drilled in polar ice. The hole will be used to obtain ice MET.OBS. samples to determine pressure, tem­ In addition to its primary purpose perature and weather data. of serving as a cargo carrier, the Feasibility tests for the project are tractor team is a valuable aid to the being made in the United States and Antarctic meteorological programme. a ,prototype hole will probably be Train members radio back daily tem­ sunk in Greenland. Diesel fluid will perature reports, wind direction ob­ be,' used to keep the ice hole from servations and reports on cloud cover. refreezing during the drilling and re­ This information is important because covery of ice samples. it provides the only opportunity dur­ Twelve men were flown in on ing the year to record reports from November 16 to relieve the party the area between Little America and who had wintered over. Byrd Station. The coldest temperature ever-135.4 degrees below zero-was recorded 13 GENERATOR AWAY! miles above the South Pole on July 16. During an air-drop at Byrd on It was taken by an airborne instru­ October 9 two parachutes which failed ment launched by the Weather Bureau. to "spill" pulled a heavy 30 K.W., So far as the Weather Bureau diesel generator across the Rockefeller knows, this is the lowest temperature Plateau with its metal platform acting ever recorded at any height anywhere. as a sledge and the parachutes as It is about three degrees below the sails. Five Globemaster crews kept previous record low, established by a a keen look out for the roving genera­ balloon-carried instrument in the Ant­ tor, which was eventually recovered arctic atmosphere in August, 1957. 20 miles from the dropping zone. Three of the new wintering-over MARBLE POINT AIR STRIP party at Byrd are veterans of the The engineering survey of Marble " Antarctic night. Sage and McGrillis Point (77 0 26' S., 163 0 48/ E.), some wintered at McMurdo, and Beckett at four miles north of Cape Bernacchi Little America, in 1956. on the Victoria Land coast, about 60 miles from McMurdo Sound, which POLE STATION has been carried out during the past Eighteen men and two sledge dogs two summers, will be completed this at the South Pole celebrated the first season. Admiral Dufek considers that day of spring on September 23 and it would be possible to build here a saw the sun for the first time in six hard runway which would be open months. They last saw the sun on for six months 'in the year and with March 22. good lighting and good electronic The ten scientists and eight United equipment would be usable the year States Navy men took a holiday from round. The cost is estimated at about their 'chores and slept. late instead of $25,000,000. J~7. ANTARCTIr: f)1), n,,,l,,"', I')',Q -----_.__._---_._------.--- 'American' Scientists Setting Out On, Long Traverses

Much of the information sought by American I.G.Y. scientists this season will be gathered on a series of major traverses. The surface traverse parties, moving in giant tractors, will conduct seismic, glaciological, meteorological and other geophysical studies.

The traverse parties will use seismic water depths between Little America techniques to measure ice thickness and Minna Bluff, found on a traverse and to determine the character of the during the last Antarctic summer. subglacial floor and of exposed land With Crary are Wilson and Den areas. Hartog, glaciologists, McGinnis a The Antarctic ice covering is esti­ seismologist, and Layman a mechanic. mated to have been, at one time, as Also travelling with the group 011 the much as 1,000 feet thicker than it is first ~tage of the journey are Maj. now. Not yet known, however, is Merle Dawson, who will do reconnais­ whether the total ice mass is presently sance work in preparation for next increasing or decreasing. The I.G.Y. January's move of equipment from findings will speed acquisition of a Little America to McMurdo, and Sgt. clear answer to this important qucs- Leslic DuFf, of Christchurch, New · tion. Zealand. UTILE AMERICA TO THE VICTORIA THREE SNO-CATS . LAND PLATEAU . Crary and his companions are On October 15 a party of seven men travelling in three powerful sno-cats' left Little America on a four-month, with cabs specially equipped for com­ I,OOO-mile tractor journey to the Vic­ fOl·table bunking. A crevasse detec- .toria Land Plateau. · tor unit has been installed on the Led by Albert P. Crary, Deputy · lead vehicle. This vehicle also has a Chief. Scientist for the U.S.-LG.Y. miniature gyrocompass as well as sun Antarctic Programme, the traverse and magnetic compasses and other group has crossed the Ross Ice Shelf facilities for navigation, plus a radio. from Little America to the Skelton Another sno-cat carries seismic, grav­ Glacier, and will work its way up the ity and magnetic equipment and a glacier to the Victoria Land Plateau. second radio. A third has messing .' The course will then lead westward facilities, including cookstoves and a · for ~ some 400 miles to approximately snow melter. It also houses the prim­ : 130 0 E.. From that point the traverse ary communication station. : group' will return to the U.S. Naval Four 2~--ton sleds are being hauled, Air Facility' at McMurdo Sound about with the "seismo" sno-cat pulling two. , February 4. ; The party is supplied with emergency :' The' primary purposes of the tra­ rations, first aid kits, climbing ropes, verse are to determine 'the'snow and crampol1s, ice axes, and two mountain · ice characteristics and thickness.on a .. tents. . · line extending directly into the main Three resupply flights are to be Antarctic highlands; to study' the made while the party is en route from :: Skelton: Glacier and the geophysical Little America to the top of the 'aspects of the transition from low­ · Skelton GlaCier. They 'are scheduled lying' ice shelf to high plateau; and for' October 25,- November 5, and to detail some specific anomalies of November 15. A major resupply cache Decomber, 1958 ANTARCTIC :343 for the western phase of the t.raverse the Skelt.on Glacier and at the western is 'to' be set up at the head or the end oUhe plateau line. At these' major Skelton Glacier. stations,. seismic refractions will be added, drill holes will be made to 20 SCIENTIFIC PLANS or 25 meters, and snow samples ..will Elevations of the surface along the be taken for oxygen isotope studies. traverse route will be obtained by aitimetry or by transit levelling. RECORD DEEP Thickness of ice and depth of water Early in November, a seismic sound- under the ice will be determined by . ing, made under blizzard conditions, seismic reflection methods. Identity resulted in the discovery· of the deep­ of rock will be established by seismic est water yet found under the Ross refraction methods. Gravity observa­ ice· shelf. ·The sounding showed that tions are to be made, and magnetic at 79 0 6' S., 165 0 30' E. the ocean floor observations will deal with horizontal was 4,400 feet below sea level. and vertical field strength, and de: The 4,400 ft. measurement is more clination. than twice as deep as the previous Examination of snow and firn greatest sounding under the Ross ice character will be made to depths of shelf, which extends about 400 miles ten meters (approximately 33 feet) into the Ross Sea bay from· a ·point from shallow snow pits and bore about 300 miles from the South Pole. holes. This will include observations Seismic studies by Mr. Crary and of snow hardness, grain size and other T.G.Y. scientists last year showed shape, densities, temperatures, and the- ice thickness of the shelf to be snow sampling for isotope analysis, from nearly 790 to about 1,050 feet. with the primary aim the annual snow The ocean bottom was shown to be accumulation data. about 2,070 ft. to 2,155 ft. below the Determination of the volume of ice surface. . flowing down Skelton Glacier on to The new low point was found 48 the ice shelf will be made by measure­ miles south of Mt. Discovery and 90 ments of absolute movement and ice miles south-south-west of the United thickness. Internal temperatures and States base at McMurdo Sound. direction of flow of plateau ice will The major scientific significance. of be determined by seismic refraction the report is in its possible relation methods. to the trough which many scientists Geographic work will include the believe extends all the way across location and elevation of mountain Antarctica. concealed by an accumu­ peaks flanking the Skelton Glacier. lation of ice. Glacial geological observations will be made for evidence of past glaciation. IS THERE A TROUGH? . The point would be a logical one STATIONS PLANNED for the Pacific side extension of such Standard "station" stops are being a trough. An T.G.Y. scientific traverse spaced at intervals of about 30 miles party from Ellsworth Station, on the for snow pit studies, seismic reflec­ Weddell Sea coast, on the Atlantic tions, gravity and magnetic observa­ side, last year detected a deep trough tions, temperatures in ten-meter !?ore extending inland from the Filchner holes. Minor stations are to be made ice shelf. about every five miles for gravity, The bottom of the trough was found magnetic, and ramsonde studies. Dur­ to average 3,500 ft. below sea level. ing the passage up the Skelton Glacier The ElIsworth party reported that the the intervals will be shortened to five trough, which extended beyond the and two miles for standard and minor southerly limits of the expedition, stations respectively. swung in a south-westerly direction, In addition, three major stations lVIl'. Crary's announcement of his will be made at the foot and top of finding was accompani~d by the cus- 3H A"ITARCTIC ..------~----_.._------tomary word of caution. It was to t.he sheet. They will also engage ill effect that the seismic sounding may gravity observations and glaciological have bounced off a "hole" in the work. ocean floor ,and that it could not be ELLSWORTH-BYRD taken as absolutely conclusive evi­ A ground party with three sno-cats dence of the trough's existence. set out from Ellsworth Station, Wed­ dell Sea coast, on October 1 to PROGRESS REPORT make the over-snow traverse to Byrd New Zealander Dr. Trevor Hather­ Station, a distance of 990 miles. This ton joined the traverse at the foot traverse may help materially to settle of the glacier. the problem of a possible channel Throughout the month-long ascent between the Weddell Sea and the of the Skelton Glacier and during Ross Sea, under the ice. Admiral nearly two months of scientific ex­ Dufek has pointed out that the find­ ploration on the high plateau Mr. ings may not be conclusive, as a Crary and his companions will be on channel, if there is one, could wind their own. and therefore not be pin-pointed on On November 23 the party reported this journey. steady progress up the Skelton Glacier. Navy aircraft are assisting. During NEW COMMANDER December a cache of 2,000 gals. of Rear Admiral David M. Tyree has gasoline and half a ton of food and been appointed, to succeed Admiral other items is to be air-lifted to the Dufek in command of U.S. Antarctic head of the Skelton Glacier. operations as from next May. Admiral Tyree, who is 53, is commander of TRIANGULAR TRAVERSE the U.S. Navy task force supporting nuclear tests at Eniwetok atoll in the A six-man tractor party led by Dr. Pacific. Charles R. Bentley, a New York Admiral Dufek will retire from the seismologist, left Byrd on November Navy on September I. He returned 3 on a I,IOO-mile triangular traverse to Christchurch from the Antarctic on intended to settle the question of November 26, but plans to go south whether the Antarctic is cut in two by ship with his successor'in January. by a gigantic trough stretching from Upon conclusion of the Interna­ the Weddell Sea to the Ross Sea. tional Geophysical Year, V.S. scienti­ The traverse will take in the south­ fic activity in the Antarctic will be ern part of the Ellsworth Highlands, conducted by the National Science go on to skirt the northern edge of Foundation in co-operation with the the Horlick Mountains for 200-300 National Academy of Sciences' Com­ miles, and back to Byrd, where the mittee on Polar Research. party expects to arrive on January 20. This route will twice cross the area of the suspected trough. NEW PLANES? Six supply flights will be made The U.S. Air Force's new Hercules during the traverse by ski-equipped transport aircraft may replace Globe­ Dakota aircraft of the U.S. Navy. masters on Antarctic supply missions next year. Their suitability is being AIRBORNE TRAVERSE evaluated. The Hercules is a four­ Besides the oversnow treks, an air­ engined turbo-prop aircraft similar to borne traverse is planned. This will the Globemaster in design. It carries follow a course running southward 32,000 lb. of cargo compared with from Mount Waesche to the northern 35,000 lb. carried by the Globemaster. edge of the Horlick Mountains. The It can be equipped with combination airborne scientists, travelling in ski­ wheels and skis for polar operations equipped planes, will land at 50-mile and has provision for eight Jato intervals for seismographic soundings bottles, two features which the Globe­ probing the depth of the Antarctic ice masters do not have. December, 1958 ANTARCTIC H5

these facilities were ready for safe SUB·ANTARCTIC and efficient operation on the arrival ISLANDS of M.V. "Holmglen." The new appointees, some of whom MARION AND GOUGH were mentioned in the September ISLANDS issue, are: (S.Af.) Officer in Charge, P, G. PoppJeton. The LG.Y. station on Gough Island Senior Met. Observer, E. L. Clague. will be maintained until March 1960 Met. Officers, D. Phipson, J. R. in terms of a decision by the Govern~ Lamb. ment which has just been announced, Senior Ionosphere Observer, R. B. At both Gough and Marion Islands Thompson. the programme of upper air soundings Radio Technician, P. J. Martin. will be reduced from two to one a day at the end of the I.G.Y. During Mechanic Handyman, W. R. Hare. past months this part of the observa­ Cook, R. G. Rae. tional programme has been very suc­ Carpenter, D. G. Herkt. cessful. Good heights have been regularly attained. The second Ionosphere observer has yet to be selected and will be 'The Weather Bureau is sending two proceeding to the station in the near meteorological assistants, Messrs. G. future. All appointees are developing M. Artz (Senior Meteorological As­ into an excellent team under Mr. sistant) and J. Bothma (Meteorological Poppleton's leadership and a very Assistant Gr. I), to spend a year at successful year is anticipated. the F.LD.S. (formerly Royal Society) base at Halley Bay. 1,'hey left Pretoria We were privileged to have Dr. M. for London to join the rest of the' A. Barnett, Director, New Zealand expedition which sails on November Meteorological Service, present at the 21 from Southampton. station during the servicing. Although the new station has been operating for some time, no official opening CAMPBELL ISLAND ceremony had taken place. This matter (N.Z.) was rectified by Dr. Barnett who on This year's annual servicing was a November 3, .1958, declared the Bee· most successful operation and the man Station officially opened. speed with whih M.V. "Holmglen's" The station's scientific programme turn-round was effected was the re· and general work programme are well suit of the excellent co-operation of under way and the new team appear Captain Regnaud and his officers and to be settling in very satisfactorily. crew, who worked tirelessly with the ingoing and outgoing expedition mem­ bers. MACQUARIE ISLAND (Aust.) The expected "annual servicing calm" failed to eventuate on this August provided an unusual prelude occasion ancl weather conditions were to spring by giving the Macquarie most unfavourable in spite of the Islanders their heaviest falls of snow presence of the Director, N.Z. Meteo­ this year. rological Service, Dr. M. A. Barnett. For the first time banded giant The new railway and the roller petrels have been recovered on Mac­ conveyor system were highly success­ quarie. One had been banded at ful and saved many problems which Mawson Point in 1955, the other had previously accounted for extra turn­ been banded by a New Zealand whal· round time, Thanks are clue to Mr. ing station. G. P. Karc lIncl his team for the un· By early October royal penguins stinting efforts put. in 1'0 ensure that hucl I1l'l'ivecl in t.housands, and many 3-16 AI~IARCIIC hundreds of sea elephant pups weigh­ ing about '80 pounds each and wear­ ing black astrakhan coats had been born. The camp isthmus area was SIR DOUGLAS MAWSON littered by many sea elephant harems comprising large groups of cows each The New Zealand Antarctic Society attended by one' giant bull beach­ joins in the world-wide sorrow at the master. The air was rent day and passing of one of the truly great Ant­ night by the dog-like yaps of pups, arctic explorers of the "heroic age". the sonorous yelps of mother cows, In a message of sympathy to Lady and the guttural roars of bulls (aver­ Mawson the Society said, "The world age weight about four tons). The is poorer for his passing and richer duty members' movements at night for his having lived." in the camp area were sometimes ren­ Douglas Mawson came to Australia dered hazardous. Some of the sea from Yorkshire as a boy. With degrees elephant battlegrounds are amongst in mining, engineering and science, he ionosonde and whistler aerial fields became a lecturer at Adelaide Univer­ with the result that much damage sity and as a physicist was a prom­ was done, often requiring the repair inent member of Shackleton's 1907-8 party to climb the tall aerial masts expedition. He was one of the first in extremely cold windy conditions. party to climb Mt. Erebus and one of Two freight parties journeyed to the three men first to reach the South Green Gorge to replenish stores and Magnetic Pole, returned with a large supply of rab­ bits for the main camp larder. Awarded a Doctorate of Science for Two days in October were devoted his exploits, he conceived the idea of to branding 400 sea elephant pups for an Australian Antarctic Expedition. the biology programme. Three parties He led a party of 25 young scientists covering the north end of the island and others who went south from counted a sea elephant population of Hobart in the steam-yacht "Aurora" over 18,000 on two occasions for in December, 1911, and set up a main comparative purposes. A giant petrel base at Commonwealth Bay on the banded at Hurd Point in March was Adelie Land coast. While "Aurora" recovered in September near Val­ made three great voyages which added paraiso, Chile. King George V Land and Queen Mary "Thala Dan" left Melbourne for Land to the map of Antarctica, and Macquarie Island on November 25. land parties probed east, south, and Among the personnel on board were west, Mawson himself led a Far East­ .. two 17-year-old Queen's Scouts, David ern party for 316 miles along the edge Hindell of Scotch College, Melbourne, of the Continental plateau, a journey and John Harris of St. Peter's College, which ended in tragedy when Ninnis Adelaide.. was lost in a crevasse and Mertz died of exhaustion, leaving Mawson alone to fight his way back to the base. \ Knighted in recognition of his out­ Italian Expedition standing leadership, Mawson became Owing to lack of anticipated official professor of geology and mineralogy support, the projected expedition to at Adelaide University, and in 1929 the Antarctic mainland by a group organised and led the British, Austra­ of Italian scientists under Dr. Silvio lian, and New Zealand Antarctic Re­ Zavatti will not eventuate as planned. search Expedition (B.A.N.Z.A.R.E.) in Dr. Zavatti proposes, however, to lead the "Discovery". On two voyages, a small expedition to Bouvetoya 1929-30 and 1930-31, more coastal (54 0 26' S., 3° 24' E.), the small Nor­ areas were discovered, notably Mac­ wegian island south of Africa, leaving Robertson Land, Princess Elizabeth about mid-December. Land and the BANZARE Coast. Maw- December, 1958 ANTARCTIC 347 son was one of the first to use air, died, th,e - Nai.ttihfs "crb'ssed -th'e North recoimaissance as an aid to discovery. Pole, 'under the' sea:'" .,, , Sir 'Douglas Mawson was cast in a In very few men have the visionary heroic mould, a big man in every and the man of action been so fully way. Though his exploits contributed combined. to Antarctic history some of its great­ est human stories, he was never a LT.-COL. T. ORDE I...EES seeker after popular acclaim, never Another insatiable seeker after ado' responsible for rash or foolhardy venture was Thomas Orde Lees" enterprises, always the scientist de­ O.B.E., A.F.C., Royal Marines (retd.), voted to his work and willing to who died in Wellington on Decemoer sacrifice himself to the uttermost in I, aged 81. the course of scientific discovery. Colonel Orde Lees, an Englishman, He retained his keen interest in won the first of his many unusual Antarctic exploration and research medals in the Boxer Rebellion. He until his death, and was to the end joined the Royal Flying Corps, and' a valued advisor to the men who was a pioneer in the advocacy and followed thankfully and admiringly in use of the parachute. Sent to Japan his footsteps as unveilers of the after World War I as parachute ex­ mysteries of the South. pert with an Air Mission, he remained there as a "Times" correspondent sm HUBERT WILIHNS and, later, as a teacher of English.· He was the motor expert on Shackle­ Sir Hubert Wilkins will be chiefly ton's ill-fated Trans-Antarctic Expedi­ remembered as a great adventurer, as tion, and, endured the privations of a pioneer in exploration from the air, the long months on Elephant Island. and as a dreamer who Jived to see one of his wildest dreams come true. When Japan entered the war in 194] he came to New Zealand with Born on a South-Australian sheep­ his Japanese wife and their daughter, farm he was immersed in adventure and was a very popular lecturer to from' his early twenties, and from the troops on his colourful adven­ 1913 when he was with Stefansson in tures. the Canadian Arctic, was never for An enthusiastic member of the New long away from the Polal' regions. Zealand Antarctic Society, he served His Antarctic sorties began with for many years on the Council, and Cope's four-man expedition in 1921. was much loved and respected by He was with Shackleton in the Society members. An unconventional, "Quest" later in the same year. In modest, even self-depreciating man', he 1928 he led an expedition to Graham had a keen sense of humour, and was Land and made the first flight in the the best of company. Antarctic on November 16. He accom­ panied Ellsworth in 1935-36. and again The N.Z. Antarctic Society for­ in 1938-39. It is a record of persistent warded a wreath as a tribute to "an enthusiasm few indeed can match. Antarctic veteran, and friend"" and the President and Mr. 'Leigh Hunt .It was unfortunate for him" that his (founder of the Society) represented' pioneer air-surveying is chiefly re­ the Society as pall-bearers at, the membered for the mistake which led funeral. to Graham Land being represented on the maps' for some years as an archi­ pelago and not a peninsu.la. ~ut t~e IT'S RAINING! error was in no way to hiS dlscrecht. Rain, almost unknown south of the , He was lallghed at for his advocacy Antut'ctic Circlc, fell at McMurdo of the use of' ~lIhl11arines 1.0 explore Sound on Novcmber 3D, it is reported hellcat h IlIe polar ice; hilI. hefore he from Scatt Base. 34R ANTARCTIC I)oLon,l>"r, I?5!l ------_.. _._------'- ._---_.-- over 300, yet there is nlways In the BOOKSIIELF reader's mind the thought, "How will "MOUNTAINS IN THE SEA", by the crossing party get on?" and those Martin Holdgate: London, Mac­ 70 pages are a magnificent climax to ,millan & Co. Ltd., 222 pages, ill., a grand book. N.Z. price 25/-. The story is ideally presented for Martin Holdgate, as one of the three the reader who is already somewhat leaders of an expedition to the little­ familiar with Antarctic conditions. known Gough Island on the Sub-Ant­ The writers do not waste time telling arctic fringe of the South Atlantic, us things we all know already, so gives us a most interesting and read­ there is time to tell the story fully able account of this remote island and without unduly lengthening the book. Sir Vivian has said the final word its fauna. A small section of the book devoted on the artificially blown-up "quarrel" to Tristan da Cunha draws a lively between the two leaders-the differ­ ence of opinion of two strong-minded picture of th~ islanders at work and at play. men which would never have hit the The photographs both in colour and headlines at all if it had not been for black and white are excellent. . the unfortunate publication of some A.H.N. private messages, quite naturally out­ spoken and bluntly worded. Fuchs * * tells what happened factually and "THE CROSSING OF ANTARCTICA", calmly, and in the whole incident Sir Vivian Fuchs and Sir Edmund there is nothing of which either man Hillary: London, Cassell and Co. need be in the least ashamed. Ltd., 338 pages, ill., N.Z. price One complaint: there is no general 36/-. map, and the page-size interspersed This book we have all been so sketch-maps are not always easy' to eagerly awaiting is a straightforward' find and refer to. account of the great venture in which And one final word of praise: the New Zealanders' played a secondary illustrations are magnificent, and they, but very important part. As befits too, cover the whole complex field. such a story, it is written in a plain, There are nearly a hundred photo­ factual style; in Fuchs's case, in a graphs, 30 of them in brilliant (but style which manifests the strongly Sir Vivian assures us, not too brilliant) scientific bent of the writer's mind. colour. There are no heroics, and it is Congratulations to both authors on better so: this great story needs no a fine piece of co-operative writing verbal embellishment. The tale is told which is worthy of the fine co-opera­ honestly and clearly, it covers the tive exploit it describes. whole ground adequately, it is well L.B.Q. balanced; and that is what is required. The balance indeed is remarkable. FRUSTRATION This was a complex, many-sided ex­ Lin Martin' records that one mem­ pedition, yet we are given a perfectly ber of the New Zealand party at clear accqunt of it from its genesis to Scott Base went out with a dog team its triumphant conclusion; and it is in a-40° temperature to revel in most gratifying to New Zealanders the newly-returned sun. When he that the parts played, not only by got back his face was covered with a the vital depot-laying parties but by sheet of ice. the survey teams and the I.G.Y. com­ His beard gave him some protec­ ponent at Scott Base, are all given tion, but created a difficulty. After full attention. some searching he managed to find Yet, throughout, the primary aim is his mouth, to light a cigarette. But never forgotten. The actual crossing when he lit it, the warmth melted the is described in some 70 pages out of icicles and put it out. The New Zealand Antarctic Society --is a group of New·ZealandeI'sf~sorne'-of·whom-have-seen Antarc­ tica for themselves, but all vitally interested in some phase of Antarctic exploration, development or research. You are invited to become a member. BRANCH SECRETARIES A.uckland: W. Dobier, 418 Pacific Bldgs., Wellesley Street, Auckland. Wellington: A. S. Helm, Box 2110, Wellington. Canterbury: A. Anderson, 15a Medway Street, Christchurch. Dunedin: J. H. McGhie, Box 34, Dunedin.

HTHE ANTARCTIC TODAY 11 This volume is out of print, but a limited number of the follow- ing separate sections is available, the stapling slightly rusted: Ionosphere Research (J. W. BeagleYJ. Meteorology (A. R. Martin). Marine Biology (R. K. Dell). Aurora Australis (1. L. Thomsen). The Nations in the Antarctic (recent Australian, South African, French, etc., exploration by leading experts in the countries concerned). These separates are available at a cost of four shillings each fro!:! the Secretary, N.Z. Antarctic Society.

HANTARCTIC" Published Quarterly • Annual Subscription 15/­ Copies of previous issues of "ANTARCTIC" may be obtained from the Secretary of the Society, P.O. Box 2110, Wellington, at a cost of 4/- per copy. Of our predecessor, the "ANTARCTIC NEWS BULLETIN" only the following numbers are available: 5, 6, 7, 9, 15, 19, 20. In most cases only a few copies are in stock. These may be obtained at a cost of 2/6 each. Annual Subscription, 15/- Single Copy 4/-

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