ANCIENT CULTURES OF THE CASPIAN

August 23 to September 11, 2019

a program of the stanford alumni association Set out on a modern-day caravan over the old from the desert oases of and across the Caspian Sea to and the green mountainous countries of and . Follow the path of the tireless merchants who brought with them exotic goods, sweeping belief systems, and new forms of architecture, agriculture, music and art. Begin in the blue- tiled Silk Road oases of Samarkand and , explore the fve ancient cities of Merv in Turkmenistan and explore , where, in the 8th century, people were known to burn oil that came from the ground. Taste the fabulous food and wine of Georgia and admire the powerful old stone churches of Armenia. Along the way, beneft from the expertise of local guides and Stanford professor Karl Eikenberry, MA ’94, as we browse the atmospheric bazaars, meet with local artists and resident experts, and experience nine different UNESCO World Heritage sites.

BRETT S. THOMPSON, ’83, DIRECTOR, STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY BAKU, AZERBAIJAN Highlights

ADMIRE the monumental MEET with various local ENJOY a special eve- EXPLORE the UNESCO and dazzling Persian archi- governmental and U.S. ning performance in Baku, site of Echmiadzin, known tecture of the ancient Silk Embassy officials to Azerbaijan, of mugham, a as the spiritual center of Road oasis towns of Samar- engage in discussions musical fusion of Persian Armenia, and meet with kand and Bukhara about the economic and and Turkic traditions named one of the religious leaders. in Uzbekistan. political realities of these a World Cultural Masterpiece independent states. by UNESCO. COVER: SAMARKAND, UZBEKISTAN

THE RUINS OF MERV, TURKMENISTAN Stanford Faculty Leader KARL EIKENBERRY, MA ’94, is the director of the U.S.- Security Initiative at the Freeman Spogli Institute for International Studies (FSI) and a professor of practice at . He served as the U.S. Ambassador to from 2009 to 2011 after a 35-year career in the Army. His postings have included East Asia, , Europe and the U.S. and have ranged from elite ranger infantry units to senior-level policy assignments. His research interests include the Indo-Pacific region, Central-South Asia, NATO, ’s global ambitions, intrastate violence and civil wars, and civil-military relations. During his almost four decades of military and ambassadorial service, Karl’s assignments at NATO Headquarters in “Karl’s unique insights and multiple diplomatic and military postings to Afghanistan brought him into close and exceptional ability to contact with Central Asia and the Caucasus as part of America’s efforts to manage conflicts and build partnerships. During tour travel, he will discuss the history, politics and economies of the communicate information region; the great game of Central Asia; China’s belt-road Initiative; and conflicts in the Caucasus in engendered a deep the modern era. understanding of the — Director, U.S.-Asia Security Initiative, and faculty, Shorenstein Asia-Pacific region we temporarily Research Center and Center for International Security, FSI, Stanford University inhabited. He was also — Professor of practice, Stanford University, 2015–present unfailingly courteous, — U.S. Ambassador to Afghanistan, 2009–2011 — Deputy chairman, NATO Military Committee, 2007–2009 humble and interested — Commander, U.S.-led Coalition Forces in Afghanistan, 2005–2007 in our own opinions. — Defense attaché, U.S. Embassy, China, 1997–2000 I cannot commend — Recipient, Defense Department’s Distinguished Service Medal, the State Department’s Distinguished Honor Award and Director of Central Intelligence Award him highly enough.” — BS, U.S. , West Point SUZANNE FORMAN, — MA, East Asian studies, ’ 8 5 , S O U T H E R N AFRICA ABOARD — MA, political science, Stanford University ROVOS RAIL, 2018 — Advanced degree, Chinese history, Nanjing University

SIGN UP ONLINE: alumni.stanford.edu/trip?caucasus2019 OR BY PHONE: (650) 725-1093

JVARI MONASTERY, GEORGIA RUSSIA Aral Sea GEORGIA Caspian UZBEKISTAN Sea Baku TURKMENISTAN Samarkand Ashgabat Bukhara ARMENIA AZERBAIJAN Merv Mary

IRAN AFGHANISTAN KHOR VIRAP MONASTERY, ARMENIA

MONDAY, AUGUST 26 Bukhara, take a free afternoon Sufis. Enjoy free time to explore Itinerary TASHKENT / SAMARKAND to explore independently. HOTEL Bukhara independently, perhaps This morning travel by express SASHA AND SON (B,L,D) visiting its bazaar. This evening, train to the desert city of attend a performance by local FRIDAY & SATURDAY, Samarkand, located at the THURSDAY, AUGUST 29 artists at a local madrasah. AUGUST 23 & 24 midpoint of the Silk Road. Visit BUKHARA HOTEL SASHA AND SON (B,L,D) U.S. / TASHKENT, its famed Registan (“Place of A storied city of mosques and UZBEKISTAN Sand”) Square and the Gur-Emir madrasahs, Bukhara has Central SATURDAY, AUGUST 31 Depart the U.S. on overnight Mausoleum, final resting place Asia’s only intact, still-inhabited BUKHARA / MARY, flights to Uzbekistan. Upon arrival of Tamerlane who conquered historic core. Begin our tour at TURKMENISTAN in Tashkent late on Saturday night Central Asia in the 14th century. Lyabl-Hauz Square, the center This morning depart Bukhara or early Sunday morning, transfer Be dazzled by the mausoleum of the Old Town, and the nearby and travel to the border town to our hotel, located in the heart complex’s brilliant blue mosaic Kukeldash Madrasah, the largest of where we cross into of the city. LOTTE CITY HOTEL and tile work. This evening enjoy Koranic school in Central Asia. Turkmenistan. After entering the TASHKENT PALACE dinner at a local family’s home. Stroll through colorful bazaars to country, enjoy lunch in the town HOTEL EMIR HAN (B,L,D) the Kalon Mosque and Minaret. of Turkmenabat before continuing SUNDAY, AUGUST 25 At the Ark Citadel, meet with the to Mary. HOTEL MARY (B,L,D) TASHKENT TUESDAY, AUGUST 27 museum’s senior advisor, then Enjoy an all-day tour in Tashkent, SAMARKAND explore Bukhara’s old Jewish one of Uzbekistan’s oldest cities. Today in Samarkand, visit a Quarter. HOTEL SASHA AND On our all-day tour of Tashkent, mosque designed by Tamerlane SON (B,L,D) stop at Alisher Navoi Park to see and dedicated to his favorite its monument honoring the park’s wife and wander among the FRIDAY, namesake, the father of Uzbek nearby mausoleums of Shah- AUGUST 30 literature. Then visit the Abdul I-Zinde. Next explore the BUKHARA Kasim Madrasah; the Kukeldash Ulug Bek Observatory, built This morning Madrasah, among the largest by Tamerlane’s grandson, a admire the Summer in Central Asia; and the Jummi remarkable astronomer-king, then Palace of the last Mosque. In the library of the Muy visit the workshop of a UNESCO- local emir, built Muborok Madrasah, view the sponsored fine-papermaking by the Uthman Koran, believed by Sunni project. HOTEL EMIR HAN (B,L,D) to keep him in Muslims to be the oldest true luxurious isolation. Koran in the world. Visit the studio WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 28 Tour the Museum of a contemporary ceramicist SAMARKAND / BUKHARA of National Crafts and the Museum of Applied Arts. En route to Bukhara, stop for and then continue This evening enjoy a welcome lunch in the village of Vobkent to the Bakhaudin reception and dinner. LOTTE CITY outside of Bukhara to meet with Nakshbah Complex, HOTEL TASHKENT PALACE (B,L,D) villagers and learn about rural built for a mystic and life in Uzbekistan. Upon arrival in founder of an order of KHOR VIRAP MONASTERY, ARMENIA INDEPENDENCE PARK, ASHGABAT, TURKMENISTAN

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 1 Mosque and the Palace In Baku’s UNESCO-listed Old industry’s role in Azerbaijan. HILTON MARY / MERV / ASHGABAT and Parliament building, then City, stroll along its winding streets HOTEL BAKU (B,L) We head out this morning to the tour the National Museum of and enjoy a curator-guided visit to ruins of the Bronze Age settlement History and Ethnography. With the State Museum of Azerbaijani THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5 of Merv, named a UNESCO World a local archaeologist, visit the and Folk Art. Dinner BAKU / TBILISI, GEORGIA Heritage site in 1999. Return to UNESCO site of Nisa, center of the highlights tonight include Azeri After a leisurely morning, take a Mary for a visit to the local History ancient Parthian Kingdom. HOTEL dishes and traditional mugham midday flight to Tbilisi in Georgia. and Ethnography Museum. This OGUZKENT (B,L) music. HILTON HOTEL BAKU (B,L,D) Upon arrival, transfer to our hotel, evening fly to Ashgabat. HOTEL where we dine this evening and OGUZKENT (B,L,D) TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3 WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 4 stay for the next three nights. ASHGABAT / BAKU, BAKU TBILISI MARRIOTT HOTEL (B,D) MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 2 AZERBAIJAN Visit the UNESCO site of Gobustan ASHGABAT After an early-morning flight to outside Baku, featuring ancient FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6 Ashgabat, Turkmenistan’s capital, Baku and some rest, set out to petroglyphs that depict both TBILISI is today a thoroughly modern explore this wealthy city located humans and animals. Stop at the A highlight of exploring multiethnic city with very few remains of on the oil-rich Caspian Sea and Nobel Brothers’ Museum/Villa Tbilisi is its red-roofed Old Town. its long history. Visit the New inhabited since the Stone Age. Petrolea to learn more about the oil Also view the Narikala Fortress and

A CAPELLA SINGERS, ARMENIA

NARIKALA FORTRESS, TBILISI, GEORGIA

SELF PORTRAIT IN A FELT HAT, VAN GOGH NARIKALA FORTRESS, TBILISI, GEORGIA

the Metekhi Church of the Virgin, up with USAID help. Continue to on our drive to Yerevan. to take in a fantastic view of wander down Rustaveli Avenue, Gori, and visit the MARRIOTT YEREVAN (B,L,D) Mt. Ararat, then continue to a and tour Tbilisi’s History Museum Museum, which includes the weekend art park for shopping and the National Art Gallery. End wooden hut in which Stalin was MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9 and people-watching. On the the day with a private concert at born in 1878. Back in Tbilisi, enjoy YEREVAN way back to Yerevan, stop at the the home of Georgian painter and a musical performance and a Armenia’s ancient capital, the UNESCO-listed 12th-century stage designer Elene Akhlediani. dinner of Georgian specialties city of Yerevan, was founded in Geghard Monastery, carved into TBILISI MARRIOTT HOTEL (B,L) and local wines. TBILISI MARRIOTT the 8th century B.C.E. Our tour the side of a mountain. Gather HOTEL (B,L,D) here includes the State History this evening for a festive farewell SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 Museum, the Genocide Memorial reception and dinner. MARRIOTT TBILISI / GORI SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 8 and the Matenadaran, an ancient YEREVAN (B,D) Head out of town today, stopping TBILISI / YEREVAN, collection of archival manuscripts. at Jvari Monastery and UNESCO- ARMENIA We next visit UNESCO-listed WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11 listed Mtskheta, capital of the This morning, drive across the Echmiadzin, Armenia’s spiritual YEREVAN / U.S. early Iberian kingdom. Stop at border into Armenia and stop center. MARRIOTT YEREVAN (B,L) After breakfast, transfer to the Tserovani, a temporary refugee to explore the UNESCO-listed airport for departing flights village, to meet residents and 10th-century monasteries of TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10 home. (B) tour their small businesses set Haghpat and Sanahin. After YEREVAN lunch at a private home, continue Drive to the Khor Virap Monastery Information Terms & Conditions

DATES Deposit & Final Payment operators act only as agents August 23 to September 11, 2019 (20 days) A $1,000-per-person deposit is for the passenger with respect required to reserve space for this to transportation and exercise every SIZE program. Sign up online at alumni. care possible in doing so. However, This program can accommodate 33 participants. Single stanford.edu/trip?caucasus2019 we can assume no liability for accommodations are limited; please call for availability. or call the Travel/Study office at injury, damage, loss, accident, COST* (650) 725-1093. Final payment is delay or irregularity in connection $11,995 per person, double occupancy due 120 days prior to departure. with the service of any automobile, As a condition of participation, all motor coach, launch or any other $13,595 per person, single occupancy confirmed participants are required conveyance used in carrying *Stanford Alumni Association nonmembers add $300 per person to sign a Release of Liability. out this program or for the acts INCLUDED or defaults of any company or 18 nights of deluxe hotel accommodations 18 breakfasts, Cancellations & Refunds person engaged in conveying the 15 lunches and 13 dinners Welcome and farewell receptions Deposits and any payments are passenger or in carrying out the Gratuities to guides and drivers for all group activities All refundable, less a $500-per- arrangements of the program. We tours and excursions as described in the itinerary Train ticket person cancellation fee, until 120 cannot accept any responsibility for days prior to departure. After that losses or additional expenses due from Tashkent to Samarkand Internal flights: Mary/Ashgabat, date, refunds can be made only to delay or changes in air or other Ashgabat/Baku, Baku/Tbilisi Visa application and processing if the program is sold out and services, sickness, weather, strike, fee for Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan Transfers and baggage your place(s) can be resold, in war, quarantine, force majeure or handling on program arrival and departure days Minimal medi- which case a $1,000-per-person other causes beyond our control. cal, accident and evacuation insurance Educational program cancellation fee will apply. All such losses or expenses will with lecture series and pre-departure materials, including recom- have to be borne by the passenger mended reading list, a selected book, map and travel information Insurance as tour rates provide arrangements Services of our professional tour manager to assist you through- Stanford Travel/Study provides only for the time stated. We reserve out the program all travelers who are U.S. or the right to make such alterations Canadian citizens with minimal to this published itinerary as may NOT INCLUDED medical, accident and evacuation be deemed necessary. The right International and U.S. domestic airfare Passport fees and visa coverage under our group-travel is reserved to cancel any program fees for Uzbekistan (e-visa) Immunization costs Meals and insurance policy. Our group policy prior to departure in which case beverages other than those specified as included Independent is intended to provide minimal the entire payment will be refunded and private transfers Trip-cancellation/interruption and baggage levels of protection while you are without further obligation on our insurance Excess-baggage charges Personal items such as traveling on this program. You may part. The right is also reserved internet access, telephone and fax calls, laundry and gratuities for choose to subscribe to optional to decline to accept or retain nongroup services trip-cancellation and baggage any person as a member of the insurance. Information will be program. No refund will be made AIR ARRANGEMENTS provided to travelers with their for an unused portion of any tour You are responsible for booking and purchasing airfare to the welcome materials. The product unless arrangements are made in start location and from the end location of the program. These air offered includes special benefits sufficient time to avoid penalties. purchases are NOT included in the program cost. To assist you in if you purchase your policy within Baggage is carried at the owner’s making these independent arrangements, we will send you details 14 days of written confirmation of risk entirely. The airlines concerned with your confirmation materials on when to arrive and depart. your participation on the trip. are not to be held responsible for any act, omission or event during WHAT TO EXPECT Eligibility the time that passengers are not We consider this program to be moderately strenuous due to the We encourage membership in the on board their plane or conveyance. countries’ weak infrastructures outside of the capital cities and at Stanford Alumni Association as Neither the Stanford Alumni times physically demanding and busy. These countries’ tourism the program cost for nonmembers Association, Stanford University industries are developing, thus patience with local service stan- is $300 more than the members’ nor our operators accept liability dards will greatly improve one’s enjoyment of the trip. We expect price. A person traveling as a paid for any carrier’s cancellation that participants will be a self-selecting group whose interest in the guest of a current member will penalty incurred by the purchase places we visit far outweighs the need for creature comforts. Daily not be charged the nonmember of a nonrefundable ticket in excursions involve one to three miles of walking on city streets, fee. To purchase a membership, connection with the tour. Program which are, in some cases, uneven or cobbled. Some of the walking visit alumni.stanford.edu/goto/ price is based on rates in effect in takes place at ancient sites, where paths can be rocky and uneven membership or call (650) 725-0692. September 2018 and is subject to and where steps may be a necessary part of the tour and may not change without notice to reflect Responsibility fluctuations in exchange rates, have hand rails. In some instances, such as museums, guided tours The Stanford Alumni Association, tariffs or fuel charges. require climbing up and down several flights of stairs, which may Stanford University and our not have handrails. Elevators are limited or unavailable. Some days require early-morning starts. Our journey at times requires several hours of travel by motor coach, the longest drives being up to eight hours. Due to poor repair and some unpaved rural roads, travel may be slow at times. Medical treatment and care are not always available or up to U.S. standards. Luggage will need to be handled by individual travelers at airport customs points where porters are TELEPHONE (650) 725-1093 not permitted. Anyone of Armenian descent or with an Armenian EMAIL [email protected] surname may be denied a visa for Azerbaijan; please call our office California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50 for more details. Participants must be physically fit, active and in good health. We welcome travelers 15 years of age and older on © COPYRIGHT 2018 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED ON RECYCLED, FSC-CERTIFIED PAPER IN THE U.S. this program. Stanford Travel/Study Nonprofit Org. Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center U.S. Postage 326 Galvez Street PAID Stanford, CA 94305-6105 Stanford Alumni (650) 725-1093 Association ANCIENT CULTURES OF THE CASPIAN

August 23 to September 11, 2019

alumni.stanford.edu/goto/travelstudy

“Wow, this was a grand trip! The education experience exceeded my expectations.”

ANN EGGLESTON, CENTRAL ASIA AND THE CAUCASUS, 2014