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2021 Apparel and Footwear Benchmark Report 2 Executive Summary

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2021 Apparel and Footwear Benchmark Report 2 Executive Summary 2021 Apparel and Footwear BENCHMARK REPORT TABLE OF CONTENTS EXECUTIVE SUMMARY � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 3 FORCED LABOR RISKS IN APPAREL AND FOOTWEAR SUPPLY CHAINS � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 7 What Conditions Are Workers Facing? � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 8 Where Does Forced Labor Occur? Regional Focus � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 10 A Look in the Wardrobe—How Might Your Clothing Be Linked to Forced Labor? � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 11 KEY FINDINGS � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 12 Companies at the Top and Bottom of the Benchmark � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 12 Key Gaps in the Sector � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 14 The Average Apparel and Footwear Company � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 15 From Commitment to Due Diligence & Remedy—Findings on Seven Themes � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 16 A Gulf Between Policy and Practice � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 18 Worker-Centric Scores Reveal Severe Shortcomings � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 19 TRENDS IN THE SECTOR � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 20 Changes in the Sector Since 2018 � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 20 Who Improved? � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 22 Findings by Region � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 23 Addressing Forced Labor Risks in the Lower Tiers of Supply Chains � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 24 Due Diligence and High-Risk Raw Materials � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 26 WHAT DO WE MEAN WHEN WE TALK ABOUT HUMAN RIGHTS DUE DILIGENCE? � � � � � � � � � � 29 WHY COMPANIES CAN NO LONGER AFFORD TO IGNORE ESG INVESTORS � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 35 KEY INDICATORS AND THEMES: FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDATIONS � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 37 Supply Chain Transparency � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 38 Purchasing Practices � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 45 Recruitment � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 53 Worker Voice � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 61 Remedy � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 70 APPENDIX 1: COMPANY SELECTION � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 76 APPENDIX 2: BENCHMARK METHODOLOGY � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 79 APPENDIX 3: STEPS TAKEN BY THE 64 LARGEST APPAREL AND FOOTWEAR COMPANIES TO ADDRESS FORCED LABOR RISKS IN SUPPLY CHAINS � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 91 ENDNOTES � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 99 | 2021 APPAREL AND FOOTWEAR BENCHMARK REPORT 2 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Workers in apparel supply chains are among the hardest hit by the Covid-19 pandemic. Even before the pandemic, 54% workers had to survive on poverty wages; in the first of companies had forced three months of the pandemic alone, workers lost at least labor supply chain allegations US$3 billion in income.1 Poverty, discrimination, a lack of labor protections, and restrictions on movement form the breeding ground for exploitation and forced labor risks— and the Covid-19 pandemic has dramatically worsened % these factors. Workers’ already meager livelihoods were 11 of companies disclosed multiple taken away and many lack the support of social and labor remedy outcomes for workers protections, which do not extend to (undocumented) migrant workers.2 Luxury Brands Among Poorest Performers How have apparel companies, which despite ultimately profiting during the pandemic, responded to increased risks of forced labor?3 KnowTheChain’s third apparel Zero score and footwear sector ranking found that the 37 largest 49% of companies scored zero on global companies fail to stand up for workers who face the most worker-centric indicators exploitation and are struggling to survive. On average, companies fail even to hit the 50% mark in the benchmark when it comes to addressing the worst forms of exploitation in their supply chains. Luxury apparel Luxury companies score particularly poorly, averaging 31/100. Italian luxury fashion house Prada’s score has worsened over time, at just 5/100, while peers such as the French brands, on average, score poorly luxury goods company Kering (41/100) and the German upper premium brand Hugo Boss (49/100) have improved significantly since the first benchmark in 2016. Also among the bottom five companies is US-based Tapestry (16/100), the owner of Coach and Kate Spade. The poor performance suggests a lack of will rather than a lack of 31/100 resources: Prada offered US$100 million in dividends to its shareholders in early 2021 and Tapestry’s gross profits for the last quarter of 2020 alone equaled US$1.17 billion.4 3 ESG Investors Must As Forced Labor Allegations Improve Due Diligence Are Skyrocketing, Sector Fails to Embrace a Just Recovery The largest investors in the lowest-scoring 5 five companies were all ESG investors. While Despite some positive signs, the sector sorely lacks this might be expected against the backdrop of the substantive improvements in areas critical a rise in ESG investing (investing that includes during the pandemic and to achieve a just recovery: considerations for environmental, social, and responsible purchasing practices and remedy. The governance factors) that has reached mainstream pandemic showed yet again that when companies investing, it indicates that ESG investors are failing do not pay suppliers for the orders they place, it is to use their leverage on supply chain matters. the workers who suffer. At a time when millions For example, US asset managers Invesco and of apparel workers across the world are waiting Vanguard are the largest investors in Prada (5/100) for their wages to be paid,10 only four out of 37 and Foot Locker (13/100), respectively, two companies (11%) could demonstrate several companies that have continuously underperformed remedy outcomes for workers, such as repayment across different human rights benchmarks.6 Both of unpaid wages or recruitment fees. Even before investors have publicly cited the importance of the pandemic, reports of forced labor in the sector tackling inequality7—yet they failed to take proactive were skyrocketing. Allegations of abuse were steps and use their leverage to address inequality identified in the supply chains of more than half in supply chains and ensure decent working and the benchmarked companies (54%), with some living conditions for the supply chain workers who companies facing up to four allegations. More make the clothes we wear every day. often than not, companies failed to ensure concrete remedy outcomes for workers, such as returning passports or reimbursing recruitment fees that More Robust Practices Are may equal several months’ wages. Workers in Both Possible and Profitable the supply chains of companies, including H&M and Walmart, are waiting for legally mandated The benchmark also shows more robust practices severance pay as high as five months’ wages. are both possible and profitable. Lululemon Both companies also faced several forced labor (89/100) and Adidas (86/100) again topped the allegations, yet did not disclose remedy outcomes benchmark, because they disclose robust efforts for workers. Only four companies showed that they across benchmark themes, such as the steps engaged with affected workers and none could they take across different sourcing contexts demonstrate that, in the few cases where remedy to safeguard the rights of migrant workers.8 was provided, it was satisfactory to the victims. Furthermore, all of the companies improved at least marginally compared to 20189 with All the companies in the apparel sector are a far cry improvements on responsible recruitment of from embracing a just recovery, let alone fulfilling migrant workers particularly marked. European their responsibilities to respect human rights.11 companies do not feature among the strongest Half of the companies (49%) scored zero on the improvers, calling into question their readiness for most worker-centric indicators (i.e., indicators that upcoming due diligence legislation in their region. focus on due diligence processes based on worker In contrast, several Asian companies, including participation
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