{ 1912 > 1915}

Duke Kahanamoku has two been invited to swim THE DUKE (EVENTUALLY)VISITS in Australia. That’s ‘HAWAIIAN CRACK WANTED’. So read the headline in the Washington Herald on 4 easy. Now if he had December 1912.

This was not a story about a drug epidemic in the the young, laidback, mild-mannered Hawaiian who been invited to swim to North Pacific, but rather a small article reporting grew up on the beaches of and had only been that the Hawaiian Olympic gold medal swimmer Duke seriously competing in races for a year. But Kahanamoku had been invited to compete in Australia. Duke was obviously big news at the time, and for good Australia it would have It seems remarkable that a Washington newspaper reason. Even before his renown as a swimmer, stories was even reporting on the possibility of a Hawaiian of his prowess were spreading throughout swimmer visiting distant Australia. Remarkable, too, . The Mid-Pacific Magazine, published by early been something worth the that despite the determined efforts of many the visit surfing advocate Alexander Hume Ford, carried a wouldn’t occur for another two years. gushing tribute to Duke’s skills in its first issue in 1910: 048 ‘Members of the Amateur Swimming Union slow magazine Duke’s effort.” of Australia have written to James E. Sullivan Duke Paoa Kahanamoku was born on the island of Star-Bulletin, of the ,’ the Washington , within sound of the surf, and has spent half of 1912 Herald continued, ‘extending an invitation to Duke his waking hours from early childhood battling the P. Kahanamoku to visit Australia as the guest waves for sport. He is now 21 years of age, and is the of the amateur governing body, to swim in their recognized native Hawaiian champion surf rider. Duke championships.’ and the members of the Hui Nalu, an organization This appeared to be a complex process. ‘The matter of professional surfers at Waikiki, have supplied the will be discussed by President Kirby and other officials of material for this article on the national sport of Hawaii. the A.A.U. and, following procedure, it will be necessary OPPOSITE: for the Hawaiian Association of the Amateur Athletic It is intriguing that Duke and his fellow Waikiki beach . Union, through Kahanamoku’s club, to apply to the boys were referred to as ‘professional surfers’, Suitably regal in both national registration committee of the A.A.U for a permit.’ presumably for the small income they earned taking bearing and in name. The formality of proceedings seems at odds with tourists surfing. This may indeed be the first use of

049 048 australia’s century of surf the duke (eventually) visits australia influenced by the so-called Duke kick is native, not to say indiginous [sic], to that ‘Australian Crawl’, which Duke section of the world and the women all use it. had seen employed by Australian swimmers visiting Waikiki. On 11 October 1912, the Hawaiian Gazette reported Duke’s brother, David that a Mr Edward Rayment, director of the NSW Kahanamoku, would go on to Immigration and Tourist Bureau, and another become the trainer for the 1924 foreign dignitary had visited Honolulu and enjoyed a US Olympic Swim Team. In an demonstration of Duke’s aquatic skills. Interview in the September 1950 Outrigger Canoe Club newsletter, Duke Pauoa Kahanamoku held a conference with Forecast, David explained; Mr. Rayment about a visit of the Hawaiian swimming champion to Australia. Both of the visitors spent In about 1910, Duke had watched the afternoon surfing in canoes and watching the some Australians swimming and Hawaiian boys and Outrigger members disporting bodysurfing at Waikiki. He noticed themselves on the surfboards. Neither of them that their style was different. They wished to leave Honolulu. They will both be great ABOVE: Duke takes the term ‘professional surfer’ anywhere in the world, as anybody, realise the prowess of the swimmers Australia’s great seemed to surge through the water with more power. promotionists for the Islands hereafter. the blocks at the a good sixty years before the concept gained currency. you have voluntarily admitted to the final contest. swimmer and good The Aussies did the same overarm stroke (they 1912 As far as his swimming career was concerned, Duke You will have done more than win an Olympic event; sport , called it the crawl) as Duke, but their leg movement But getting Duke to Australia proved to be no easy Olympics on his way always maintained a strictly amateur status to remain you will have shown an unsurpassable example of with the Solomon was different. Duke, like the rest of us, swam with a feat. On 23 May 1913, the Honolulu Star-Bulletin to collecting the gold eligible for the Olympics, often enduring significant sportsmanship for other Olympians to emulate.’ Islands Alick self-taught frog leg movement. So he tried the Aussie reported that the Australian cricket team hoped to medal in the 100 financial hardship as a result. Duke easily qualified for the final and went on to Wickham, pioneer of straight-leg kick, holding on to a surfboard, with make a stopover in Hawaii on their way home from a metres freestyle But Duke’s renown was about to spread much more win the gold medal, with Healy taking silver. Duke was the Australian Crawl his friend Frank Kalani. Since he found it somewhat tour of North America to give Duke a lift back. ‘Duke RIGHT: Duke Receives widely. In 1911, entering his first organised swimming three metres ahead of the field when he appeared swimming stroke unnatural, he modified it, with a slightly bent leg, which Kahanamoku may get a trip to Australia after all,’ his medal from King race, Duke smashed the world 100-yard record by 4.6 to slow and allow Healy to draw close, before taking made his ankles and feet act like swim fins. In the 1912 the paper reported, ‘and the Antipodean swimming Gustav of Sweden seconds. US mainland officials refused to accept the victory by a narrow margin. Healy’s grand gesture Olympics, Duke showed his self- enthusiasts get a chance to see the Hawaiian speed time, questioning the legitimacy of the race, staged had almost certainly cost him the ultimate prize, taught style’s superiority by beating marvel in action in spite of the hitch which prevented as it was between two wharves in Honolulu Harbour. but it cemented a warm friendship between the two. Duke proved a the Aussies. Then it was the Aussies’ his making the trip this spring.’ It is not known what ‘What are you using for stopwatches over there in On the presentation dais, Duke held Healy’s hand popular figure at turn to watch and learn from him. this ‘hitch’ may have been. Hawaii? Alarm clocks?’ they asked Hawaiian swimming highest to show whom he thought the real champion Then they modified their Aussie crawl The Australian cricketers had stopped over in officials. was. In gratitude, Duke promised that he would visit the Stockholm after he visited them Down Under! No Hawaii on their ocean voyage to North America and Duke soon silenced the skeptics by travelling to Australia one day. Thus, surfboard riding’s great Olympics, the wonder he always had a soft spot for had been so impressed by the Duke’s ‘swimming and the mainland and qualifying for the US team for the kickstart Down Under was inspired by an act of selfless Australia in his heart! surfing stunts’ that Australia’s cricket Captain Edgar 1912 Stockholm Olympics, though not without some sportsmanship. Healy went on to claim gold in the 4 x unaffected young Mayne made the offer. Duke naturally thought it was an difficulty. The Maui News reported: 200-metre relay in a fitting bit of justice, with Duke and Hawaiian who It’s worth noting, too, that the excellent plan and was willing to make the voyage. his US teammates in second. strummed his Australian Crawl itself was inspired For reasons unknown, this latest plan did not His first essay gave cause for doubt, as he was forced Duke’s victory over Healy, Australia’s greatest by another great swimmer from the come off either. By this time it seems it had become to retire with cramp. To one unused to turning, and to short-course swimmer, ensured that he became an ukulele poolside to Pacific Islands, the first-generation something of a national campaign among the young small bathing pools, and who had previously known international sports star almost overnight. His fame calm his nerves. bodysurfer Alick Wickham. He nation’s sporting fraternity to get Duke to Australia. An only the ocean for his swimming practice, the new soon spread to the Antipodes, where his triumph was had left his home in the Solomon unnamed cricket correspondent from the Herald gave conditions were decidedly awkward. However, his explained by bestowing almost superhuman abilities Islands to attend boarding school in Duke a glowing endorsement. He was not the first, nor second trial silenced everyone; and he just showed his on the Polynesian race in general. The Launceston in the late 1800s and rose to would he be the last Australian journalist to develop a heels to all the great sprinters of the eastern part of Examiner, under the headline ‘HEALY’S CONQUEROR prominence as a champion short- whopping man-crush on the handsome Hawaiian: the union. DUKE KAHANAMOKU COMES OF SEMI-AMPHIBIAN course swimmer, as well as setting ANCESTORS’, followed up his performance in a world record for high diving. I met Duke on my way home from America last year, Duke proved a popular figure at the Stockholm Stockholm with a lengthy feature about the Hawaiian When the Maui News reported on Australia’s keen and have never met a finer follow. He is 23 years of Olympics, the unaffected young Hawaiian who people’s remarkable affinity with the ocean: desire to lure Duke to its shores they also commented age, a fine stamp of an athlete, and he never smokes strummed his ukulele poolside to calm his nerves. on the prospect of there being many other great nor drinks. He is most unassuming . . . Apart from his Duke’s closest rival over 100 metres was Australian From the day he is born till the hour he dies the swimmers from the Solomons: swimming the champion is a marvel in the surf and swimmer Cecil Healy, and both qualified easily for Hawaiian is never wholly out of sound of the soft lap- took some of our fellows out in a canoe to shoot the their semifinals, but confusion over scheduling meant lap of the waves on the reefs surrounding his native Word comes from Australia that ‘Our Duke’ is wanted breakers. We are all hoping to meet Duke again in our that Duke and the other American swimmers missed islands. The sea is his mother, father, and playmate – there just to show how well a man can swim when he own country, and it is safe to say he will be very popular their semifinal. In an act of supreme sportsmanship, hardly ever his enemy. From the time he can walk, and tries. The Australians say they will pay the expenses out there. Healy insisted he would not swim the final until Duke some times before, he begins to dabble in the ocean, of Duke, his manager and trainer . . . Down in the was given an opportunity to qualify. If Healy was to win, and no enchantment held forth by later sports can Solomons, where the great Wickham came from, there On 20 September 1913, The Sydney Morning Herald he argued, he wanted to win against the best in the wean him away from its lure. are swimmers who can take the bush from anything confidently predicted, ‘It is now practically assured world. Eventually, the Australian and German teams so far discovered. The women have never been in a that Duke Paoa Kahanamoku will visit Australia for the agreed to allow the semifinal to be re-swum, garnering There was enormous interest in Duke’s swimming contest away from home, but it is said if they were coming swimming season, and compete in the Australian praise from Dagens Nyheter, the newspaper published technique, particularly his unique leg action, dubbed to come to Hawaii they would swim circles around championships at Sydney and Brisbane, and most likely especially for the Stockholm Olympics: ‘You, as well the ‘Kahanamoku Kick’. His technique had been anything Honolulu has so far produced. The famous swim at the other large centres in the Commonwealth.’

051 050 australia’s century of surf the duke (eventually) visits australia Yet again, by 5 December, the trip was off. ‘DUKE on his promise. For Duke’s part, the trip to Australia KAHANAMOKU WILL NOT VISIT AUSTRALIA,’ the seemed to have been a convenient escape from an Herald announced, reporting that ‘private business’ uncomfortable double life at home. He was revered as would prevent Duke’s visit and plans were rescheduled a sporting hero but forced to work in low-paying jobs for the following year. rather than accept appearance fees or prize money An unnamed correspondent for the Herald visiting and jeopardise his amateur status and eligibility for Hawaii at the time was excited by the prospect of the Olympics. He embarked on the long ocean voyage Duke’s appearance Down Under, but less than to Australia with a world at war and on the verge of impressed with Waikiki itself: ‘An Australian’s first poverty himself, ‘running away from my problems,’ he impression of the famous Waikiki Beach at Honolulu is confided to a friend. decidedly disappointing . . . The sand portion does not Duke’s Australian friend from Stockholm, Cecil exceed 25 yards in width at any point; and the rise and Healy, described the enormous excitement among fall of the tide is very slight.’ swimmers that Duke’s impending visit, after several He was, however, won over by the sport of surfing thwarted attempts, generated as it drew near, in the and provided a detailed description of boardriding, Referee of 9 December: ‘Their chagrin immediately which in itself suggests the practice was not widely changed into an all-engrossing curiosity, and known in Australia at the time. speculation as to what this natatorial Paladin is really like has since been agitating their thoughts. As the due The board is about seven feet long and eighteen inches date of his arrival (Monday next) draws nigh, so does wide, with a convex top. About 300 yards out a wave the excited state of enthusiasts’ feelings become more is selected and then, lying flat on the board with the apparent.’ arms used in paddle fashion, as much impetus as On 13 December 1914, Duke finally arrived in Sydney possible is gained before the wave reaches the surfer. after a two-week voyage. ‘Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, the The position is maintained until one is certain that the world’s champion swimmer over 100 metres, arrived wave is carrying its burden, when here from Honolulu by the R.M.S. Ventura yesterday,’ the enjoyment is increased by first the Herald reported. ‘He is a splendid specimen of When arrangements assuming a kneeling position, and manhood, standing 6 ft 1 in (185 cm) and weighing 12 were finally settled then standing erect in the centre of st. 8 lb (80 kg). He is the undoubted sprint champion of the board. This is kept up for more the world.’ to bring Duke to than 200 yards; and sometimes Duke was scheduled to compete in the New Australia, not even those who can balance well stand South Wales state championships before travelling on their heads. The experience is to Queensland, where he would appear at several Duke at Boomerang, The chairman’s announcement of the Duke’s name great speeds, but one doubts the possibility of Duke, or the outbreak of very pleasant; and once the art is towns. On his return to Sydney, it was predicted that his base at Freshwater was responsible for a great burst of cheering, which anyone else, duplicating such feats in Australian surf. could mastered everything is forgotten in ‘the Swimming Union will probably arrange for a surf Beach, with his continued after he had risen to his feet. Kahanamoku Still, if he should give one of his rare exhibitions for our the keen enjoyment of the exercise. display when the champion will be seen on the surf- Australian hosts. did not portray signs of self-consciousness. He faced edification, be sure it will create a keen desire on the part prevent him from board. Matters in this direction have not yet been finally Australian bodysurfer his audience calmly, and spoke deliberately. He said he of our ambitious shooters to emulate his deeds, and it finally making good The correspondent had presumably arranged.’ Fred Williams is to had been looking forward to visiting Australia for the goes without saying that his movements will be watched on his promise. tried their hand at surfing with The welcome for Duke and his party was a formal the left of Duke, Harry last two or three seasons, and felt sure he was in for a intently. Personally, I am convinced that the natural some success. Less than fifty years affair. ‘Yesterday afternoon a large gathering met Hay to the right, and good time . . . All my glowing impressions of the Duke amphibious attitude of the Australians will enable one or earlier Mark Twain had written of in the Hotel Australia to give the visitors a hearty Don McIntyre far were re-established . . . He is a splendid dispositioned another to unravel the knack. his own failed attempts at surfing in welcome,’ the Herald reported. ‘In proposing the health left. Photo courtesy fellow, and I cannot conceive the thought of anyone Hawaii and declared bluntly, ‘None of the visitors, the chairman [Mr H. Y. Braddon] said Freshwater Surf Club taking other than an instant liking for him. I make bold There is still much debate over how widely practised but natives ever master the art of Kahanamoku was the first Olympic champion to visit to predict that he will have ingratiated himself into surfboard riding was in Australia prior to Duke’s visit. surf-bathing thoroughly.’ And only our shores.’ It was also acknowledged that some the affections of a large number of Australians before As we have seen, he was certainly not the first to ride a six years earlier, had penned his own thought had been given to postponing Duke’s visit departing on his homeward voyage.’ board in Australian waters, but Healy’s report suggests rapturous description of watching a Hawaiian surfer yet again due to the outbreak of hostilities in . little progress had been made locally in mastering in action: ‘He is flying through the air, flying forward, ‘Braddon said it was a good thing for these events to Healy was obviously keen for Duke to stage a surfing the art. It seems unlikely that Healy would have been flying fast as the surge on which he stands. He is a take place. Because of the terrible struggles they were exhibition while in Sydney and asked if he had brought unaware of his fellow Manly resident Tommy Walker’s Mercury, a brown Mercury. His heels are winged, and in engaged in, there had been an inclination to put off a surfboard with him. Duke replied that he’d been told efforts on a board. Should we assume, then, that he them is the swiftness of the sea . . .’ such events, but they all meant work for someone or they were banned on Australian beaches. Sensing his was unimpressed by them? Accounts such as Twain’s and London’s had another and, personally, he thought it a good thing to friend’s keen disappointment he assured Healy, ‘But Duke performed as impressively as expected in local generated a deep fascination with the aquatic talents hold them.’ I can easily make one here.’In a later article, Healy swimming carnivals. At the Domain Baths, he broke of the Hawaiians. It is not hard to imagine that this Duke’s response to his warm welcome was primed local audiences for the prospect of one of his own world record for the 100 yards, clocking in at Herald report would have inspired some Sydneysiders polite but brief. As reported in the Herald, Duke Duke’s surfing exhibitions: 53.8 seconds. He also found enough time to shape to attempt to make their own surfboards to the Kahanamoku said he was glad to see so many a surfboard. In the foreword to the The Surfrider, an dimensions described and test their skills in the local familiar faces from Stockholm, and ‘he would do his Kahanamoku is a wonderfully dexterous performer on Australian surfing book published in 1963, Duke himself surf. best to win.’ the surfboard, an instrument of pleasure that Australians wrote, ‘A few Australians had tried the boards but they When arrangements were finally settled to bring Duke’s old friend Cecil Healy, also a part-time have so far been unsuccessful in handling to any degree. hadn’t got the knack, so I penciled out a design and Duke to Australia, not even the outbreak of World newspaper correspondent, wrote enthusiastically Reports have been brought back from overseas of his ask George Hudson’s timber yard to make up a board War I could prevent him from finally making good about the reception: acrobatic feats executed while dashing shorewards at for me. I finished off the board by hand myself and at

053 052 australia’s century of surf the duke (eventually) visits australia Freshwater beach on Sydney’s northside, showed the rapturous and certainly suggested surfboard riding was Australians how it was done.’ The book clearly dubs a new and novel activity on Sydney’s beaches. Duke the ‘first man to ride a surfboard in Australia’. ‘WONDERFUL SURF RIDING, KAHANAMOKU ON Historian Patricia Gilmore, reflecting on Duke’s THE BOARD. A THRILLING SPECTACLE,’ the Sydney Sun visit for the Herald in 1947, described the sugar pine trumpeted above a rapturous account by W. F. Corbett: board in detail: ‘This board – which is now in the proud possession of Claude West – was eight feet six inches One could hear, in the imagination, the roars of long, and concave underneath. Veterans of the waves applause with which thousands of Australians might contend that Duke purposely made the surfboard have greeted Kahanamoku’s display at Freshwater, concave instead of convex to give him greater stability Manly, this morning, had the fact that it was to take in our rougher surf.’ place been made public. As it was there were only W. F. Corbett, writing for the Sydney Sun, noted, a few pressmen, some members of the New South ‘He would have preferred redwood, but a properly Wales Amateur Swimming Association, and the casual seasoned piece of that particular timber, sufficiently Freshwater bathers present . . . Kahanamoku’s control long, could not be procured in of the improvisation was wonderful, he handled it Sydney. The necessary shape is like a toy and went out fully a quarter of a mile, riding ABOVE: The horse magnificent display, which won the cordial response we have a great rival of ‘Duke’ Kahanamoku, who is at ‘This finely-built almost that of a coffin lid, with one some breakers and dashing through others with such and buggy used to of the onlookers . . . If the condition of the water is present creating such a sensation amongst the surfing Hawaiian caught the end cut to very nearly a point. The speed that he completely mystified Messers. W. W. Hill deliver Duke’s board favourable when Kahanamoku makes his public fraternity of Sydney. surf riding board is thicker at the and Hoy, who entered the water with him. Mr Hoy can to Freshwater Beach appearance in surfboard riding in Sydney it is sure to breaker he wanted, bottom than at the top, tapering all throw a 100 yards behind in little more than a minute. - the pair of ‘Creamy be keenly appreciated. And that sensation was about to grow at Duke’s first and paddling along the way.’ Not at any time in the race seaward did either of the Ponies’ and their fully public surfing exhibition at Freshwater. It was a for a while rose to It is a curious quirk of history swimmers hold the islander for a moment, and he buggy were a popular The Daily Telegraph noted that several spectators tried fine, sunny day with an estimated 2000 people waiting that on the same day Duke’s first soon away by himself. The Duke lay flat upon the board, form of transport to to emulate Duke’s feats without any success. on the beach. Manly Surf Club’s surf boat crew offered one knee first, then surfboard riding display was and with arms widespread, paddled his own canoe convey Duke’s board While Cecil Healy himself could not attend the their services to tow Duke out through the break, an became gradually announced in the Sydney press, a vigorously. to his Sydney surfing exhibition, he wrote in the Referee: offer he declined with a chuckle. The very fact that surfing exhibition by Tommy Walker Unfortunately the water was not favorable. Kahanamoku exhibitions. Photo a boat crew was on hand suggests that, whatever erect and reached in Yamba was also announced in would have preferred a long roll. He had to face a very courtesy Freshwater A number of our leading surfers were spectators of surfboard riding was already going on, they were not the crest to shoot the local newspapers there. It is short one. ‘I’ll do my best, anyhow,’ said he, and despite Surf Club the display, and from what I can gather the general accustomed to seeing a surfer paddle a board out not known whether this was mere that the board was new to him, and he had never before RIGHT: At around 70 impression amongst them was that he did wonderfully beyond the breakers under his own steam. forward with coincidence or if perhaps there was essayed the task in Australian waters, our visitor gave pounds, or 32 kg, well under the circumstances, but they feel sure it Strangely, there appear to be fewer press reports astonishing speed.’ some desire by Walker and others an exhibition which won the admiration of spectators Duke seemed able merely amounted to an indication of what he is capable of the event than his first private exhibition. Most W.F. Corbett to establish that surfboard riding who thoroughly understood the skill of it. It was a to carry his sugar of doing under more favorable conditions. They have accounts of this second demonstration were recorded had already been performed in thrilling spectacle at times. This finely-built Hawaiian, pine board with no doubt that when he has the opportunity to adapt well after the event. Some years later Duke’s brother Australia prior to Duke’s visit. with his powerful frame showing elastic muscles, as ease. Photo courtesy himself to the vagaries of our surf, and strikes a Bill recalled: Unfortunately, Duke’s display did not proceed on better and more enduring than those of a knotty nature, Freshwater Surf Club suitable day, he will be able to do things of a really the appointed day. It had been planned as a private caught the breaker he wanted, and paddling along for a sensational nature. The dextrous manner in which he When he went to Australia to show them surfing the exhibition for media, but its public announcement while rose to one knee first, then became gradually erect handled the heavy board when taking it out through the lifeguards tried to stop him. They said, ‘You can’t go had attracted a large crowd. Duke’s appearances and reached the crest to shoot forward with astonishing breakers would appear to have greatly surprised the out there. There are a lot of man-eating sharks .Duke were clearly being tightly controlled by the swimming speed and marvelous balance . . . The ease and grace Sydney men. said, ‘Ah, no, I’ll go out.’ After Duke’s surfing exhibition, association that had funded his visit. The Sun reported of his shooting might be equaled, but it certainly could when he came back to the beach, the lifeguards asked on 23 December: not be excelled. As showing how much second nature It seems unlikely that it was mere coincidence that him, ‘Did you see any sharks?’ Duke said, ‘Yeah, I saw it was to him, Kahanamoku stood on his head a couple Tommy Walker chose to give another surfboard plenty.’ ‘And they don’t bother you?’ the lifeguards The swimming authorities have heard that through of times, and even turned his back to the direction in demonstration at Yamba’s Main Beach on New Year’s asked. ‘No,’ Duke replied, ‘and I didn’t bother them.’ the publication of a paragraph yesterday to the effect which he was going, and posed. Lying flat on the board, Day, 1915, only a week after Duke’s initial exhibition that Kahanamoku would give an exhibition in the surf the Hawaiian caused it to describe a half-circle or turn and two weeks before the keenly anticipated public Many years later, Duke recalled the event in his at Freshwater, Manly, some 2000 or 3000 people who completely round without spoiling the shoot. performance Duke would give on 15 January. Whatever biography World of Surfing, though there is a good assembled there to watch the show were disappointed. the motivation, the local press was enthusiastic. Under chance his words were embellished by his co-author, The famous Hawaiian did not put in an appearance, The Herald added their own take on the seminal moment: the heading ‘SHOOTING THE SURF’, the Northern Joseph Brennan: and he was not expected to do so by those controlling FOLLOWING PAGE: Lismore Star reported: his visit to this country. The association wishes it to be It was Kahanamoku’s first attempt at surf-board This image of Duke I must have put on a show that more than trapped their made known that the Duke’s first appearance in public riding in Australia, and it must be admitted it was surfing at Freshwater [Walker] gave an interesting exhibition of shooting the fancy, for the crowds on shore applauded me long and will take place on the opening day (January 2) of the wonderfully clever. The conditions were against good is credited to Don breakers on a redwood surf board 11 feet long and two loud. There had been no way of knowing that they would championship carnival at the Municipal Baths, Domain. surfboard-riding. The waves were of the ‘dumping’ McIntyre, treasurer of feet wide. Getting well out on the edge of the break, go for it in the manner in which they did. I soared and The announcement of any other arrangement with order and followed closely one on top of another. the NSW Surf Bathing Walker mounted his board, whistled ‘Tipperary’ for a glided, drifted and sideslipped, with that blending of flying Kahanamoku as the central figure has not that body’s According to the champion, board-riding on the Association, and a key few seconds, and then found himself back on the beach and sailing which only experienced surfers can know and authority. Waikiki Beach, Honolulu, is a pleasure and there it is figure in organizing again. It was fine to see him standing (sometimes on fully appreciate. The Aussies became instant converts. possible to shoot in over a quarter of a mile. Then too, Duke’s surfing his head) on the board, sailing in at a fast rate of speed. Eventually, a private surfing exhibition did proceed on 24 Kahanamoku was at disadvantage with the board. It exhibitions. Photo It is remarkable to see him maintain his balance on the The most ardent convert was 15-year-old local girl December for a handful of media and a few on-lookers. weighted almost 100lb, whereas the board he uses courtesy Freshwater board, for a person would have to be an athlete as well Isabel Letham, plucked out of the crowd by Duke when All the media accounts of the event were similarly as a rule weighs less than 25lb. But, withal, he gave a Surf Club as being an expert surfer. We can safely say that . . . he called for a volunteer to tandem surf with him.

055 054 australia’s century of surf the duke (eventually) visits australia 057 056 australia’s century of surf the duke (eventually) visits australia Duke walks up the Again, this was only twelve years after daylight bathing Though definitely not the first Australian to ride a Freshwater crowd after On sighting a likely-looking wave, he commenced to appreciate fully the sight of that bronze statue tearing beach with his board was legalised, at a time when mixed bathing and dress surfboard, or even the first woman (as has been Duke’s demonstration. paddle vigorously, still lying prone as before. After a in through broken and choppy seas. after his January codes were still causing official angst, and the White widely claimed), Isabel nevertheless took to the Photo courtesy few ineffectual attempts he succeeded in catching one 1915 exhibition at Dee Australia Policy was in full force. new sport with characteristic gusto. ‘Influenced by Freshwater Surf Club properly. Instantly the board seemed to leap forward Of all those inspired by Duke’s visit, perhaps the Why. Numerous kids In the foreword to The Surfrider, Duke simply her mother’s circle of feminist-leaning friends, she like a fiery steed when the spurs are most profound influence was on his young tandem in the crowd can be recalled, ‘There was a tiny little girl in the crowd that became something of a tomboy,’ according to historian driven into the rowels. Immediately partner, Isabel Letham, ‘the prettiest swimmer to seen holding small day who by her manner seemed more excited than Joanna Gilmour. ‘By her mid-teens her repertoire ‘Instantly the board afterward the Duke rose upright, come out of Australia . . . another Annette Kellerman,’ wooden hand planes, all in the crowd. I put her up on my shoulders and we of pursuits included swimming, diving, body surfing seemed to leap and assumed the attitude of ancient as declared by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin. Indeed, and one figure in the made a few good rides.’ and aquaplaning – her active, unconventional nature chariot drivers. And no sooner had he Letham attempted to follow in the footsteps of the background can be Letham herself, speaking to the Women’s Weekly documented in photographs of her and her likeminded forward like a fiery done so than he appeared to exercise Australian swimming pioneer and film star Kellerman seen in the shallows in 1954, thirty-nine years later, recalled, ‘I was really friends of this time.’ steed when the spurs some subtle influence over the madly by pursuing a Hollywood acting career. Though her with a surfboard. frightened but the Duke took me by the scruff of the The Isabel Letham collection at Warringah Library are driven into the careering craft: in fact just as if he film ambitions went unfulfilled, she spent much of the Photo courtesy neck, stood me before him, and we took the shoot.’ At elaborates: ‘Their home was full of progressive women, had taken reins in hand. He altered 1920s in California as an assistant swimming coach at Freshwater Surf Club a time when most women wore heavy neck-to-knee including Millicent Preston Stanley, the first female rowels. Immediately its direction so as to steer a course the University of Southern California and Director of bathing costumes, Isabel ventured that her light, two- member of the NSW Parliament.’ afterward the Duke diagonal to the beach. Although Swimming for the City of San Francisco. piece swimsuit ‘proved rather shocking to the more Letham’s father was less impressed by her interest the prow pranced and bounded Many surf historians have speculated about a conservative’. Oddly, there appeared to be no reports of in surfing, as she told the Women’s Weekly, many years rose upright, and over the crest of the onrushing romance between Isabel and Duke, and in private moral outrage generated by the spectacle of physically later: ‘My father thought the sport dangerous, and assumed the attitude billow, the Duke stood like an ebony conversations Isabel openly expressed her admiration intimate, mixed-race, cross-gender tandem surfing. wasn’t at all pleased at my taking it up. If he saw me statue, immovable save for the deft for the Hawaiian. Whether they ever crossed paths in The most colourful description of the tandem out with the board, he was usually rather annoyed. of ancient chariot movements of his feet. California, if indeed that was Letham’s hope, is not display was written by Lester Brien, who interviewed There would have been a deadlock over this but for the drivers.’ known. Significantly, Isabel never married and Duke Letham in 1980 for a treatment of a surfing fact that I arranged for a lookout at the Freshwater Life Duke also gave a demonstration didn’t marry until 1940. Neither had children. documentary that was never made: Saving Clubhouse to ring the shark bell when father Cecil Healy at Cronulla Beach the following Lester Brien says he detected no hint of a romance came in sight over the hill.’ day and, significantly, left another between Isabel and Duke when he interviewed her. ‘She She remembers crying out to the Duke to stop Letham tandem surfed again with Duke at a carnival board behind, sparking a new level of interest in was simply selected there because she was the best paddling, so fearful was she of the size of the wave at Dee Why in February. The exhibition attracted a boardriding on both sides of the harbour. The St George swimmer – the surf lifesaving club captain pulled her out. that he was proposing to catch. Finally, with the great deal of media and public interest, and was a Call reported on the event: The Duke came in after demonstrating how it’s done and Duke shouting ‘yes, yes,’ to Miss Letham’s ‘no, no,’ successful fundraising venture for the Dee Why Surf he said, “I’ll take out a girl for a tandem ride,” and the club the Duke launched them onto what was, according Club, which paid the NSW Swimming Association the Standing upright, standing on his head, diving off, captain said, “You better go, Isabel, you’re the strongest to Miss Letham, a massive greenback. As they were sum of twenty-five pounds for the right to host the twisting the board. It all looked so ridiculously easy, swimmer.” And there was no connection afterwards.’ being propelled shorewards the Duke reached down event, an investment it recouped many times over in and so it was to the Duke, but local men who tried The more telling point of Isabel’s story, Brien and with one mighty hand gripped her by the back of gate takings. after came to the conclusion that they had a lot to argues, is what it says about gender politics in the neck and held her firmly to her feet, much like a Duke’s friend Cecil Healy, writing in the Referee, learn about the game. One wants to try and stand on Australia at the time. ‘The fact that she had to go to ventriloquist’s dummy. provided a riveting account of the demonstration: that unstable piece of wood, even in smooth water, to America to get a job is quite interesting. She tried

059 058 australia’s century of surf the duke (eventually) visits australia ABOVE: Even local Even though Hay had considerable credibility as a Duke’s biographer, Sandra Kimberly Hall. estimates children were given a surfer and witnessed Duke’s Freshwater exhibitions, that he may have made as many as eight boards while turn on Duke’s board it is hard to believe that this is not a considerable he was in Australia, and at the very least this would at Freshwater. Photo exaggeration. have considerably added to the number of boards in the courtesy Freshwater West, McAlister and Letham continued to give country and seeded the expertise to build more. Surf Club all credit to Kahanamoku for kickstarting the sport The sad footnote to Duke’s historic visit is that the Down Under throughout their great boost given to surfboard riding in Australia was lives. In 1939, as an Australian immediately curtailed by a world at war. Many keen ’My father thought surf team prepared to leave for young surfers enlisted, including Duke’s friend Cecil the sport dangerous, Hawaii for the Pacific Games, Healy, who featured as a poster boy for recruitment Duke’s tandem to get a job at Manly Baths repeatedly and she was It would be wrong, however, to consider Duke’s visit McAlister noted, ‘We in Australia to the Australian Imperial Force. In June 1918, Healy partner Isabel Letham knocked back, and I think she might have secured the as the ‘starting point’ of surfing in Australia. A report and wasn’t at all learned the rudiments of the sport joined the 19th (Sportsman’s) Battalion AIF, served in went on to become employment by correspondence with the University of in the Sydney Sun on 11 January suggests the Manly pleased at my taking from Duke. He gave the boards and , and rose to second lieutenant. Just a keen surfer and California, so she went there specifically to get the job.’ line-up was already well-populated with surfboard new meanings. I don’t think seventy-four days before the end of the war, he was a noted swimming Letham was not the only one whose life was deeply riders when Duke went for a surf at South Steyne: it up. If he saw me anybody, Hawaiian or Australian, cut down by machine gun fire on the Somme, during coach in California. influenced by Duke’s surfing exhibitions. Photos depict ‘The breakers were favorable for the pastime, and the out with the board, could duplicate Duke’s old time a charge on German trenches. He earned the sad Duke’s fondness for Duke on the beach at Freshwater surrounded by a Honolulu champion made some magnificent returns he was usually rather skill.’ distinction of being the only Australian Olympic gold tandem surfing had crowd of bathers, including numerous young boys to the shore standing on his big surfboard. He was ‘I was the first Australian medallist to be killed in action. Over 60,000 Australian apparently upset clasping small handboards only a foot or two in length however, greatly impeded on this occasion by local annoyed. I arranged to take up surf-board riding,’ West soldiers were killed and 150,000 wounded out of a total some in Hawaii. ‘That, – somewhere between a hand-plane and a paipo-style surfers, who wished to give exhibitions of their own at for a lookout to ring told The Daily Telegraph in 1939, population of 4.5 million. too, was something bodyboard. These may have been the ‘surfboards’ that the same time.’ ignoring those who predated Of those ravaged by the effects of war, one of the which had dismayed were reported to be present in the Sydney surf in large In 1939, champion swimmer and pioneer surfer Harry the shark bell when Duke’s visit. ‘I Iearnt on Duke most poignant stories was that of Tommy Adrian, the the orthodox when he numbers. Other photos show young children taking turns Hay wrote an article that was oddly prescient of John father came in sight.’ Kahanamoku’s board, which he only man to beat Duke in a swimming race during his had been the first at riding on Duke’s board close to shore. Among that first Witzig’s infamous ‘We’re Tops Now’ story in Surfing World Isabel Letham left here after introducing surf- Australian visit. Adrian defeated Duke over 440 yards Waikiki to venture it; handful of surf-stoked, star-struck Australian grommets twenty-seven years later, trumpeting Australian surfing board riding to Australia before h at the Domain Baths, not the Hawaiian’s favoured the feat involved the were young Manly lads Claude West and Charles ‘Snowy’ supremacy. Under the heading, ‘Australians Are “Tops” in the war.’ distance but achievement enough to earn the young violation of the old McAlister. Surfboard Riding’, Hay declared: TOP RIGHT: Sadly, Duke himself seemed convinced of the profound Manly swimmer great acclaim. Three years of brutal taboo which denied West is remembered as Duke’s ‘star pupil’ who Cecil Healy became effect his surfing demonstrations had in Australia. trench warfare in France and the death of his club mate boards and canoes to shadowed him to his other surfing demonstrations in The Hawaiians introduced us to this exhilarating, Australia’s first ‘Nothing would do but that I must instruct them in Cecil Healy took an awful toll on Adrian. women,’ according Sydney and inherited his board when Duke returned to thrilling pastime, and to these romantic tropical and only Olympic board building – a thing which I did with pleasure,’ he He coached Olympic champion Andrew ‘Boy’ to Maxwell. Photo Hawaii. He went on to become Australia’s first national islanders is due our warmest thanks. But typical of our champion killed in later recalled. Charlton in preparation for the 1924 Paris Olympics, courtesy Freshwater surfing champion from 1919 to 1925, establishing a race, the youth of Australia has developed the art until action during World but suffered a fit of depression on the lengthy sea Surf Club. clear lineage in Australian surfing descending from today they are the equal in skill of their dusky natatorial War One. Before I left that fabulous land, the Australians voyage to the Games and threw himself overboard in Duke’s visit. West eventually passed on his board neighbours . . . This assertion was verified during the had already turned to making their own boards an apparent suicide attempt. Adrian had to spend the to McAlister, who went on to assume his title as 1915 visit to Australia of famous Hawaiian swimmer and practicing what I had shown them in the surf. rest of the voyage locked in his cabin for his own safety Australia’s top boardrider. West also learnt to make and surfboard expert, Duke Kahanamoku. He enjoyed Incidentally, forty years later, Tom Zahn came to and remained in London while Charlton travelled on to solid timber boards himself, modelled on Duke’s board, our surf, but despite his great knowledge of surfboard Australia, found my sugar pine board to be still in Paris, where he won gold in the 1500 metres in world- and later sold one of his old boards to a young Adrian riding, he admitted that the young Australians excelled seaworthy shape. He took it out into the waters of record time. His nerves shattered, Adrian returned to Curlewis, who would become the longest serving his own efforts under the unusual local conditions, of Freshwater Bay and gave the spectator-jammed work in his father’s shoe store in Manly and lived out president of the Australian Surf Life Saving Association. which, of course, he had little experience. beach an exciting surfing demonstration. his days in obscurity.

061 060 australia’s century of surf the duke (eventually) visits australia