THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 2, 2018 TR 11 36 Hours

With a bit of planning, the Eternal City can be at its most bewitching at the onset of winter.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUSAN WRIGHT FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES From left: the , an example of world-class ancient art and architecture in Rome; Monteforte on Via del Pellegrino, where visitors and residents can refuel with coffee and pastries; a street featuring Bar del Fico.

ing labyrinth of Renaissance and By DAVID LASKIN V.V DEIDEDEIEI BBABANCHIBANCA CHICHHHII Rome to the venerable Bar del Fico, a combi- VEVECECCECCCCHCHIH 4 BarBBaarr ddeele FFicocoo ChurchChCChurhhu chch ooffSf S.S. IF YOU GO SS4S4S4 AgneseAggneeessee FuoriFFuFuououori For all its imperial and papal pomp and cir- nation bistro and bar where you can sip a BBaBanancaanncnnchchivechchhivivecveeccccchichchi PePellaelellellamil mi PaPanthntntheheoneoe n lele MurMMuraraa 1 Ai Tre Scalini, via Panisperna 251; VV.. DEDELEL Rommeme cumstance, Rome at heart is a beautiful Negroni or mescal infused with ginger beer MoMonontefntntenteforefeefofoforortrtete aitrescalini.org/en/ PELPPEELLELELLLLLEEGEGRINORRIINONO MausoleumMaMMauauusssooleeum 6 child — raucous, dreamy, secretive, a touch and chili (12 euros), or knock back a brandy PaPaneananee eeV VVinViinoinnono LaLa CiaCCiiaamambellmbmbbeelleellaa V. LibrLibrerLibLLiibbrebrerrerrererririariaia deldelel ViagVVi ggiaggggiagiatoatatoreorree D ofof SSaSantaanntataaC CostanzaCCostasttaana a 2 SS Quatro Coronati, via dei Santi Quattro 20; 3 E spoiled, by turns exasperating and enchant- alongside the young Romans who gather P A 7 A N monacheagostinianesantiquattrocoronati.it Sciamciaciamammdm didi YYooussouussusssseeff HHaalallaallallaaakk R A Il MMiinotainoinnootauotatauuroururo IO T ing. The child is on its best behavior during here nightly to sip and dance. D.J. sets L N I E 8 SoSolodoloollodl dudueue M 3 La Ciambella, via dell’Arco della Ciambella O GustandoGGuustu tatananddodo e “le feste” — the winter holidays. High sea- thump away until 2 a.m. RetReRetretetroproporoopopospoososese N . V DegustandoDDeegeggugussstaanda do 20; la-ciambella.it/en/la-ciambella son crowds thin, and dazzling light displays CaCamampompmppoo dde’e’e F Fiiooriororii and slanting sunbeams compensate for the 1/8 MMIMILILELELE 4 Bar del Fico, Piazza del Fico, 26/286; NationalNatioNNationalonalal RomanRoRomomamaann Museumususesseeeuuumm bardelfico.com/en/ short days. Today’s Rome is paradoxical: BathsBBatattthhs offDf DDiDiocletianioooccletiaccleletiaianan 5 National Roman Museum, Massimo: Largo Even as many historic neighborhoods fall to Saturday 5 VAVVATICANATICANAATATICTTIICAANN Internationalterernrnnaaatitiioonnnalalal mass-touristic homogeneity, outlying dis- TerminiTTerrmmminiiiinii TIBUTIBBUURTINOU di Villa Peretti; : Viale CITYCITCCIIIT MuseumMMuuusseeuuummmo ooff Enrico de Nicola 76; museonazionaleromano tricts are becoming more vibrant and var- 5 9 A.M. CLASSICS WITHOUT CROWDS theththe Presepioesepesesseeepiopiop o ied. For an authentic Roman holiday, get out • PalazzoPPaaalalallaaazzzzzoo MassimoMaMassiimmmoo allealleeeT TermeTeTerrmm .beniculturali.it. 1 of the centro storico and sample the pizza The multibranched National Roman Mu- SANSASAANN LOLLORENZOOORRRERENENNNZZZOO 6 Santa Costanza and S. Agnese, via No- PASSEGGIATPAPASSASSSSEEGGIAAATATATATA AiAi TreTTre ScaliniSSccaalilininii seum is still the city’s best kept secret for DELDEEL GIANICOGIANICOLG AANNNICOCOLCOOLLOLO stalls of the Testaccio market and the funky 9 RIONERRIIOOONNNEE I RIONERIORIOIOONNEEX XXVV mentana 349; santagnese.org ESQUILINOEESSSQQQUUUIILLLINLIINNNOO wares at the nearby Sunday world-class ancient art and architecture. LargoLaLarrgrggoo ddi PoPPortaoorrtrrtatata MONTIMONTIONTNTI RRistoranteRistorstorasttoratoorooranorantoranterranterarananteanaantnttee 7 Gustando e Degustando, via Marcantonio JJaniculumculumm HillHill 12 OttaOOtttaviottttaviotta iioo flea market, the nightclubs of San Lorenzo The two branches flanking the Termini Sta- SanSSaaann PancrazioPPaannncrazioncncracrazioc aazzio Boldetti 3/5; gustandoedegustando.it ColosseumCCoolooollooosssssseeueeumumm 10 and Tiburtina, and neighborhood gelaterie tion — the Palazzo Massimo and the Baths of Anticoticot Arcocoo 13 AlcazarAlccaaazzazaarr LivLLiLiveivvvee LUNGOTEVERELLUUNGOU GOOTEVO EEVVEERERER 8 Solodue, via del Pellegrino 48; solodueitali- Diocletian — complement each other per- 14 2 11 like Neve di Latte and La Mucca Bianca. AVENTINOAAVVEENTINEENN INNOO SazeracSaS zzeracerac PubPuP b a.it. Retropose, via del Pellegrino 60; ret- Tranquillity has never been Rome’s strong fectly. The Massimo’s collection of classical FatamorgFatammorganargggaana AugustinianAuggustistinininian BasilicaBBasassilicsilicccaa TRASTEVERETTRRAASSSTTEVTTEEVVEEERRE PortaPooorrrttata PortesePPorttteessese ofof SaS SantiantaannnttitiiQ QuattroQQuaQuuaatttttrottrroo CoronatiCCooroorroonnatatittii ropose.com. Sciam, via del Pellegrino 170; suit. But with a bit of planning (and flexibil- bronzes, mosaics and wall paintings reveal SundaySSuuunnnddadaayy mmarketararkkketet Libreria del Viaggiatore, via del Pellegrino ity), tourists will find the Eternal City can be the breadth and finesse of Roman artistry, PIAZZAPIAZZPIPPIAIAAZZZZZAA ITALYITAALLLYY TESTACCIOTETTESSTSTTAACCCCICIIOO 165; facebook.com/libreriadelviaggiatore. at its most bewitching at the onset of winter. while the baths complex, once the empire’s largest, surrounds you with soaring ma- RomeRRoomeommee Libreria il Minotauro, via del Pellegrino 110; (Though buses and trams crisscross the city, ROMROOMMAMA OSOOSTOSTIENSESSTITIIEENSESES SS7SSS77 you’ll save time with two easy-to-navigate sonry ruins, whispering fountains, and an MuccaMuMuccca BiancaBBiaBiianiaancanncaaaGe GelateriaGlGGeelalatatteererriaa V.V ACAIAACCCAAIA ilminotauro.com/diario. Banchivecchi Pellami, apps — My Taxi and It Taxi.) immense cloister attributed to Michelan- V.V. DEIDEEI COLLIC COL PORTUENSIRTTUTUUEENSSII via dei Banchi Vecchi 40; italiastraordinaria.it gelo. /artigianato/roma/banchivecchi-pellami.html 9 International Museum of the Presepio, via 1 MILEM CircoloCCircirrrccolcoololloo DDeDegligglii IlIlluluuminatiummiminanaatiati MapMapppda datad fromm OpeOpenStreetMapnSSt Tor de’ Conti, 31/a; museopresepioroma.it 6 11:30 A.M. TOMB WITH A VIEW THE NEW YORK TIMES Friday • 10 Ristorante Ottavio, via di Santa Croce in A quick bus or cab ride from the museums Gerusalemme 9; ottavio.it 1 4 P.M. OLD BOTTIGLIA SHOP delivers you to a gem that few Romans, let • 9 6 P.M. DELIGHT THE INNER CHILD 11 Sazerac Pub, via Umberto Biancamano 80; Ai Tre Scalini in Monti (not to be confused alone visitors, know about: the Mausoleum • LODGING facebook.com/SazeracPub with the restaurant of the same name on Pi- of Santa Costanza. Folded into a green hill- No one loves a crèche — presepio in Italian Rental apartments are abun- 12 Hill, Passeggiata del Gianicolo side that rises above the busy artery of Via — more than the Italians, and at the Inter- azza Navona) is an informal, century-old dant around the Borgo, the 13 Antico Arco, Piazzale Aurelio 7; anticoar- neighborhood wine bar where locals rub Nomentana, the circular templelike tomb of national Museum of the Presepio you can co.it the daughter of Rome’s first Christian em- revel in the finest examples of this folk art , Campo de’ Fiori shoulders comfortably with visitors. Re- 14 Fatamorgana, via Roma Libera 11; peror preserves a mosaic cycle of astonish- from all over the world and down through and the Coliseum. Expect to serve a table online or join the lively crowd gelateriafatamorgana.com/web/ at the bar for an Italian draft beer (Bav bitter ing exuberance and delicacy. Save a few the ages. Open only on Wednesdays and pay $80 to $120 a night for a or Birra del Borgo lager is 6 euros, or about minutes before the noon closing time for the Saturdays from 5 to 7:30 p.m. (with ex- one-bedroom. The Hotel Locar- $7) and Calabrese green olives or coppiette seventh-century church of Sant’Agnese tended hours from Christmas to Jan. 6), the no is an oasis of tranquility a di maiale (spicy, oven-dried pork strips). Fuori le Mura in the same complex. The museum is in the basement of the tiny stone’s throw from Piazza del teenage martyr venerated here presides church of SS. Quirico e Giulitta, at the edge Popolo. Double rooms from leafiest hill, has a glorious pedestrian path over the apse in an austere, Byzantine-style of Monti. $156. Across the piazza on a 2 6 P.M. GRACEFUL VESPERS mosaic of elongated figures set against a that rambles past huge sycamore trees, • gold background. quaintly picturesque street, the fountains, monuments, statues and stately A 15-minute walk, skirting the crowds that 10 9 P.M. RAW AND COOKED Margutta 19 offers 16 modern palaces (many now embassies and acade- ceaselessly mill around the , • rooms and suites surrounding a mies). Pick up the path at the edge of Vati- leads to the Augustinian Basilica of Santi Packed nightly with well-heeled Romans, 7 12:30 P.M. LUNCH BREAK terraced hillside. Doubles with can City and join Romans for a leisurely as- Quattro Coronati, one of Rome’s hidden jew- • Ristorante Ottavio is worth the cab ride out Gustando e Degustando, a 10-minute walk to the southern fringe of the Esquiline dis- breakfast from $450. Hotel cent to the Fontanone — literally the Big els. Even if you’re not religious, the vespers Fountain — the immense early-17th-cen- sung here every evening at 6 offer a medita- from Santa Costanza, is the hole-in-the-wall trict for supremely fresh seafood, both raw Raffaello, between the Termini tury water feature that Paolo Sorrentino tive bridge to day’s end (and a nice antidote you dream of: a handful of tables, a chalk- and cooked, served with low-key elegance Station and the Monti neighbor- used in the opening shots of his film “La to jet-lag). The nuns’ quavering voices meld board of daily specials, oldies burbling in the and practiced flair. Let your server guide hood, is quiet and convenient, Grande Bellezza.” perfectly with the serene geometry of the background, and simple food of notable you to house specialties and daily catches, starting at $111. medieval floor and the ancient columns that freshness. Beef strips on a bed of arugula (8 which might include plump shrimp with line the nave. Try to catch a glimpse of the euros) is light and flavorful; octopus, pesto sweet Trochea onions (38.50 euros), lingui- 13 1 P.M. FAMILY LUNCH 13th-century cloister, a place of “extraordi- and potatoes (10 euros) has a nice balance of ne with small octopus, and a lavish platter • nary joy” in the words of the writer Eleanor succulent and savory. An extensive list of of boiled lobster studded with potatoes and Some of the same people you encountered Clark. beers, wines and spirits makes this an tomatoes (45 euro). on the Janiculum passeggiata may well be equally good choice for an afternoon aperi- lunching beside you at Antico Arco, a sleek, tif. stylish and deliciously adventurous restau- 3 8:30 P.M. FOODIE PARADISO 11 11 P.M. NEIGHBORHOOD BISTRO • • rant at the summit of the hill just outside the In the heart of Rome, just blocks from the 8 3 P.M. SPENDING SPREE Brooklyn hipster hang meets London pub Porta . Seared scallops with Pantheon, recently opened La Ciambella • at Sazerac, a cozy neighborhood boîte with red pepper and basil (22 euros) makes for a serves exquisite food in a spare quiet room What a stroke of luck that two of Renais- a great soundtrack (from rock to reggae) standout starter, and the spaghetti with where you can reliably find a table. The chef, sance Rome’s most ravishing streets, Via del just around the corner from Ottavio. Grab a pecorino and zucchini flowers (16 euros) is Francesca Ciucci, alchemizes local ingredi- Pellegrino and the intersecting Via dei tiny bistro table and settle in with a My Saz- a welcome variation on the city’s ubiquitous ents — fermented black garlic, chickpea Banchi Vecchi, are lined with some of the erac (cognac, absinthe and Morlacco bit- pasta with cacio e pepe. flour, red Tropea onions — into dishes of ex- city’s most tempting boutiques. From ters, 7 euros), a Fog Cutter (rum, cognac, ceptional subtlety. The purée of fava beans Campo de’ Fiori, pick up Via del Pellegrino gin and lime, 7 euros) or artisanal beer. For laced with wilted chicory makes for a green, and work your way west, stopping at Solo- more serious partying and dancing later in 14 2:30 P.M. CIAO, GELATO velvety soup (7 euros) and the braised lamb due, for shoes, tops and accessories; Ret- the evening, continue on to Circolo degli Il- • Even in winter, a visit to Rome is not com- on a coulee of smoked cream of red peppers ropose, for oversize bags in eye-popping col- luminati in the Ostiense neighborhood or (18 euros) is both buttery and lightly pi- ors; Sciam, for glass baubles and Murano the recently opened Live Alcazar in Traste- plete without a cone or cup of gelato. Ro- quant. The wine list features Nero d’Avola goblets; Libreria del Viaggiatore for travel vere. mans will argue fiercely that their neighbor- from small producers like Sicily’s Azienda books; and Libreria il Minotauro, a warren hood gelateria is the best, but no place has Gulfi. Save room for feather-light lemon me- stuffed with children’s toys and books. Re- more original flavors than the Fatamorgana ringue pie. fuel with a coffee and pastry at Monteforte, chain. Wasabi chocolate; and almond milk, and continue past the patrician palaces to Sunday mint and ginseng are just a few of the odder Banchivecchi Pellami, via dei Banchi Vec- ONLINE: AN OVERVIEW scoops on offer. Luckily, the 4 11 P.M. PARTY CENTRAL 12 10:30 A.M. SCALE THE HEIGHTS • chi, 40, a venerable family-run shop offering • Our interactive map: branch is an easy (downhill) walk from the Walk from La Ciambella through the haunt- classic Italian-made belts and wallets. The Janiculum, Rome’s second-highest and nytimes.com/travel top of the Janiculum.

Bites Lost Larson CHICAGO Reclaiming a Swedish Baking Heritage When Chicago’s Andersonville vanilla and bread immediately surrounded fer’s version is aromatic, baked with uplift- neighborhood bid farewell to its me. Every gleaming white marble cafe table ing orange peel, fennel and anise. At $8 a beloved Swedish Bakery in Feb- was filled with patrons chatting over small loaf, it is a luxury item — and satisfying: I ruary, it was as if a cake-shaped plates of enticing food and mugs of hot slathered thick slices with salted butter for hole had been left in the historically Scandi- coffee. three days thereafter. The miniature duch- navian neighborhood’s collective heart. The Not a single laptop was open. No one ess cake (Mr. Schaffer’s take on the princess traditional Swedish, neon, green-domed stared into a phone. No one was even shoot- cake), however, with its tender vanilla cake had long been local legend. ing smartphone pictures of the otherwise sponge, jewel-toned raspberry gelée and a When the pastry chef Bobby Schaffer, Instagram-worthy pastry case. It was as dreamy white chocolate marzipan mousse, who had previously led the pastry programs though everyone had pledged to honor the disappeared posthaste. at Michelin-starred Grace in Chicago and spirit of “fika,” the Swedish coffee break. MEGHAN MURPHY-GILL Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, Taking note, I left my phone in my bag as N.Y., was searching for a space to open his I helped my 4-year-old pull apart his flaky ANTHONY TAHLIER new venture, he knew the neighborhood ham and cheese croissant. My husband and was in need of a local bakery. A pickled herring sandwich on upbringing; I didn’t know any cultural I shared two intriguing open-faced sand- “I’d always known that it was one of my limpa with lingonberry jam, connection to that.” wiches: ’nudja and gianduja with spread- favorite neighborhoods, having grown up radish, fried onions and dill. And so he christened his bakery Lost able spicy sausage, chocolate hazelnut here,” Mr. Schaffer said. “I really loved how ...... Larson and set off with his sister Bree, who spread, creamy ricotta, pumpkin seeds and it supported independent businesses and Lost Larson, 5318 North Clark runs the front of the house, to Sweden, two poached eggs; and pickled herring with had this hometown charm to it.” Street, 773-944-0587. A meal where they visited three or four bakeries a salty, preserved fish, a bright lingonberry CARIBBEAN He also knew that he had Scandinavian for two is about $20, not includ- day in search of inspiration for the recipes jam and paper-thin slices of radish and The FDR Family Recess Package - Everything Included! heritage himself, the story of which had ing coffee or tip. he’d develop for hearty loaves of limpa, white onion. Runaway Bay, Jamaica gone missing when his grandfather, whom sweet, yeasty cardamom buns, and yes, So enamored was I with the limpa on It's an Investment in your family! You will return home feeling relaxed, rejuvenated, renewed and Ready to Go! Mr. Schaffer had never met, supposedly even a homage to the Swedish princess which the herring sandwich was made that I Vacation Assistant (Nanny) assigned to every family, Gourmet meals, Top shelf Bar, Supervised Kids & Teens Club, Free changed the family name from Larson to cake. took home an entire loaf. “Limpa” translates WiFi. Nightly Entertainment and so much more. Schaffer after the man he’d worked for. He I visited on a damp and dreary afternoon. from Swedish simply into “loaf," but usually Call for Discounted Rates at 1-800-654-1337 or visit our website www.fdrholidays.com. Use Promo Code: NYT to get a said that heritage “was never part of my An aromatic cloud of sugar, cardamom, refers to some sort of rye bread. Mr. Schaf- free bottle of Champagne