Stanley Park: Crystallized Wilderness

Beau Wuthrich - MLA Candidate, UBC SALA

“In Wildness is the preservation of the World.” – Henry David Thoreau

In 1888, mayor, David Oppenheimer announced as a site where “Art will unite with nature, making this the finest park on the continent.” His statement has remained definitive of Stanley Park’s identity. Superficially, the Stanley Park forest is viewed as untouched—a relic of the past. Indeed, the popular myth of Stanley Park is that its forested core is virginal, romantic and sublime: a reflection of BC’s environmental and cultural identity. Historically, however, the site has been groomed, and has acted as a fulcrum for debates to define urban greenspace. Concepts including the sublime, the frontier, and the sustainable, have taken root in these woods. Stanley Park represents an ideal nature—our ideal nature. Although the aesthetic of that ideal is mercurial, the idea of the wilderness appears to be the sacred heart of the naturalist discourse surrounding the park.

Vancouver Sun, 28 March, 1912

In 1912, the Vancouver Parks Board requested proposals for a new entryway into Stanley Park. Landscape architect, Thomas Mawson, was chosen as advisor. Mawson’s suggestion was a Parisian-inspired affair, proposing “ as your Champs Elysée […] as the Grand Rond Pond, and the park as the Tuilleries” (Vancouver Sun, 28 March, 1912). His Renaissance style met heated criticism from the likes of Frederick Wade, lawyer, and head of the Vancouver Sun. Wade and compatriots insisted Stanley Park remain “sublime” (The Province, 17 Dec. 1912), “as God made it” (The Province, 10 Jan, 1912). Historian Robert Macdonald notes that social class formed Mawson’s proposal for Stanley Park, 1911, Source: City of oppositional camps in arguments over whether Vancouver Archives Stanley Park’s aesthetic styling would resolve into Wade’s sublime image, or Mawson’s utilitarian-recreational concept, favoured by Vancouver’s working class (“Holy Retreat or Practical Breathing Spot?” 146).

As Wade’s group represented the vocal financial elite, Mawson’s plan was rebutted. Wade would not, however, resist city engineer, Frederick Fellowes’ winning proposal—an organic land bridge sealing . Fellowes’ proposal aligned with the “untouched” aesthetic he valued. In “Plotting Time in Landscape Architecture,” Sonja Duempelman and Susan Herrington suggest that pastoral landscapes are frequently trapped in time, “designed to redeem lost nature or lost community” (10). Importantly, it was not the natural condition of Stanley Park that elite lobbyists preferred, but a particular brand of nature. Wade embodied an attitude toward landscape architecture that has long flowed through Stanley Park—the romantic, sublime aesthetic. Macdonald suggests that these educated upper class men “embraced an earlier, more elitist parks philosophy” (147). Indeed, Fellowes’ proposal to terraform a “natural” landscape rather than a “Grand Pond” demonstrates an artifice and control so absolute that art and nature become indistinguishable. Perhaps this ethos sees landscape architecture restoring Edenic myth, making the natural not only palatable, but somehow more natural—as God made it.

Construction of Coal Harbour causeway, 1917. Source: City of Vancouver Archives

In speaking of groomed nature, it cannot go unstated that Stanley Park was originally inhabited by various peoples. Henry Avison, Vancouver’s first park ranger, was tasked with evicting Chinese families from Anderson Point by setting fire to their homes (Matthews, “Avison, Henry”), Squamish chief, August Jack Khatsilano’s father’s remains and his family home were relocated to a region he called Snauq (now ) to make way for the Stanley Park drive (Conversations with Khatsalano, p.4), and the entire Whoi-Whoi first nation, a village of hundreds at what is now Lumberman’s Arch, was evicted (Early Vancouver. 2). Ironically, later, in the 1920’s, plans to erect a replica “Indian Village” were entertained. Ultimately, instead of honoring the original first-nations, the replica was modeled after the Haida (Vancouver Sun, 12 Apr, 1925). Apparently, those first nations possessed a “higher degree of courage and intelligence One of many publications regarding the Indian Village, Source: The Vancouver Sun, than their more easy-going and 12 April 1925 pusillanimous cousins of the south.” (The Province, 12 Apr, 1925). Environmental historian William Cronon describes “primitive” peoples as being “idealized, even sentimentalized, until the moment they do something unprimitive, modern, and unnatural, [falling] from environmental grace” (“The Trouble with Wilderness,” 21). The example of omitting “unideal” peoples from history and replacing them is concomitant with the crystalline vision of Stanley Park as static, untouched frontier. Despite that plan capitulating budgetarily, Vancouver presently maintains twelve totem poles in Stanley Park. Historian Jean Barman writes that these “sanitized” totems “provide an encounter with Indigeneity safely removed from real life” (“Erasing Indigenous Indigeneity,” 26). One might suggest that these too harken an idealized time, “before the white man came to BC”.

Stanley Park, Source: Stanley Park Forest Management Plan, p.1

The “Stanley Park Forest Management Plan,” released in 2009, holds as its vision statement, “that Stanley Park’s forest be a resilient coastal forest [allowing] park visitors to experience nature in the city” (7, emphasis added). The plan seeks to employ modern ecological methods (8) to increase biodiversity (10) and sustainability (11), promoting planting with a palette of “plants that attractively lace shorelines in the southern Georgia Strait” (10). In contrast, invasive species (mentioned fifty times in this document of as many pages) are described as being sometimes toxic, causing fire or erosion, and smothering or displacing native species (21). Finally, a description of ancient “veteran trees” seems to refocus from emotive to ecologically beneficial, but subsequently paints a picturesque image of native fauna, which use the trees, to illustrate this benefit (28). Through quantitative biocentric data, an old, unnamed qualitative sentimentilization shimmers: BC’s wilderness, aestheticized.

In the Forest Management Plan, pre-colonial Stanley Park is depicted as an efficacious ecological system. Implied is that scientific stewardship can sustainably reproduce those conditions into the future. It may be said that although this scientific view takes natural process into account, the wilderness of the past still finds a niche in Stanley Park. The word, “sustainable” roots etymologically from sub (under) and tenere (to hold). If the sublime wilderness is something frozen, crystallized, in time, perhaps the sustainable is paradoxically eternal and arrested in time. Although they are indeed valid preservation efforts, parks in this tradition are designed and manmade. The way we discuss them, today and a century ago, seems to hint that societally, we need these parks, not as ecological centers, but as totems for a natural world that we’ve mined, logged, and paved. In 2006, a brutal storm felled numerous trees in Stanley Park, and dangerously slanted the famous centuries-old “” (a thuja plicata), necessitating the installation of a large metal frame, inspired by dental techniques (National Post, 01 Apr 2008). A plaque by the snag reads: “Having one's picture taken here […] is a local tradition.” (stanleyparkvan.com). The image of a cold metal armature foisting up a very Instagrammable, but regrettably dead tree seems to serve as synecdoche for the park itself. Stanley Park and other nature parks offer tremendous beauty, but it is important to consider what the cultural purpose of a park is, and what the controlled aestheticization thereof signifies. Cronon warns, “The flight from history that is very nearly the core of wilderness Hollow Tree with metal armature, Source: stanleyparkvan.com represents the false hope of an escape from responsibility, the illusion that we can somehow wipe clean the slate” (16, emphasis added). Whether we see it as sublime, savage, or sustainable, Stanley Park is just that: a park. To idealize is to limit our own understanding to an idea we already possess, and with climate change as a consideration, we cannot afford to prop Stanley Park up as an idealized, localized litmus test for the rest of BC’s Hollow Tree, 1902, Source: Richard H. Trueman rainforests, or our world’s natural resources. ♦ fonds, AM1589-: CVA 2 - 141

Works Cited

Barman, Jean. “Erasing Indigenous Indigeneity in Vancouver.” BC Studies, no. 155, 2007, pp. 3–30.

Canadian Photo Co. Vancouver BC. “Coal Harbor Vancouver.” Nov 6 1917. AM54-S4-3-: PAN N54. W.J. Moore Cirkut Negatives Collections. City of Vancouver Archives, Vancouver, BC,

Cronon, William. “The Trouble with Wilderness: Or, Getting Back to the Wrong Nature.” Environmental History, vol. 1, no. 1, Jan. 1996, pp. 7–28.

Duempelmann, Sonja, and Susan Herrington. “Plotting Time in Landscape Architecture.” Studies in the History of Gardens & Designed Landscapes, vol. 34, no. 1, 2 Mar. 2014, pp. 1–14.

Exell, Bob. “Here Lies Stanley Park.” The Tyee. 15 Jan. 2007.

Flewin, Yuna and Bill Stephen. “Stanley Park forest Management Plan.” 2009. PUB-: PD 3227. City Publications fonds. City of Vancouver Archives, Vancouver, BC, Canada

Golder, Stephen. “Indian Village in Stanley Park.” The Province, 12 Apr. 1925.

“Hollow Tree in Stanley Park.” StanleyParkVan.com, stanleyparkvan.com/stanley-park-van-tree- hollow.html.

MacDonald, Robert A.J. “‘Holy Retreat’ or ‘Practical Breathing Spot’? Class Perceptions of Vancouver's Stanley Park, 1910-1913.” Canadian Historical Review, vol. 65, no. 2, June 1984, pp. 127–153.

“’Mannalillaculla’ Will be Complete Indian Village—An Historic Monument in Stanley Park to Tribes of Province.” The Vancouver Sun, 15 Jul. 1923.

Matthews, James Skitt, Major. “Avison, Henry.” AM54-S17-M409. Major Matthews fonds. City of Vancouver Archives, Vancouver, BC, Canada Matthews, James Skitt, Major. “Conversations with Khahtsahlano, 1932-1954.” E78.B9 M38. Major Matthews Collections. City of Vancouver Archives, Vancouver, BC, Canada

Mawson, Thomas. “Map of Stanley Park [site plan].” AM1594-: MAP 62. City of Vancouver Archives technical and cartographic drawing collection. City of Vancouver Archives, Vancouver, BC, Canada

Mawson, Thomas H. “Vancouver, a ‘City Beautiful.’” Vancouver Sun, 28 Mar. 1912.

“Plan Setting Indian Villages in Vancouver.” The Vancouver Sun, 9 Apr. 1919.

“Council Endorses Agreement for Stadium.” The Province, 17 Dec. 1912.

Wade, Frederick Coate. “Progressive Policy for Stanley Park.” The Province, 10 Jan. 1912. “Stadium for Park Adopted by Council After Warning Note.” The Vancouver Sun, 17 Dec. 1912.

Sinoski, Kelly. “Stanley Park’s Hollow Tree Must Fall.” Stanley Park's Hollow Tree Must Fall, 1 Apr. 2008, www.nationalpost.com/news/Stanley+Park+hollow+tree+must+fall/414510/story.html.

Talmazan, Yuliya. “10 Years since Major Windstorm Hit Stanley Park.” Global News, Global News, 16 Dec. 2016, globalnews.ca/news/3123909/watch-10-years-since-major-windstorm-hit-stanley-park/.

Trueman Photo. Big tree, [hollow tree] Stanley Park, Vancouver, B.C. 1902. AM1589-: CVA 2 – 141. Richard H. Trueman fonds. City of Vancouver Archives, Vancouver BC, Canada