Butterflies of Greece 2016 Holiday Report 18 - 25 June 2016 Led by Sotiris Alexiou

Home , Amfissa, Carcharodus flocciferus, Carcharodus orientalis, Common blue, Cyaniris semiargus, Geranium bronze

Grecian Copper © Peter

Greenwings Wildlife Holidays

Tel: 01473 254658

Web: www.greenwings.co.uk

Email: [email protected]

©Greenwings 2016

Introduction

This two-centre butterfly focused holiday was based around the Mount Parnassus area of southern Greece and also Mount Chelmos in the Peloponnese. Our first base in the little town of Delphi had excellent views of the Amfissa valley, the Corinth sea and the mountains of Peloponnese. It lies at an altitude of 1000m and the presence of a ski resort on the mountain, makes the access here easy with a nice, modern, road. This gave us a chance to find many interesting species such as Europe’s smallest butterfly, Grass Jewel, and also to visit the ancient archaeological site of Delphi. We would later move to a hotel on Mount Chelmos on the other side of the Corinth, to seek out a number of endemic butterflies such as Pontic, Chelmos and Zephyr Blues, the rare Odd-spot Blue and a host of other interesting species. Again, a ski centre meant that access was good and both hotels were clean and neat family places.

We hoped therefore for good weather, good food and a week spent watching lots of butterflies in these lovely areas. The 12 guests joining Sotiris were Sue, Ian, Andy, Peter, Jennifer, Emma, Chris, Jackie, Mark, John, Elaine and Gill.

View from our hotel at Delphi © John

What follows is an outline of the week, followed by a daily diary, gallery and species lists.

©Greenwings 2016 2

Day 1, Saturday 18th June. John and Elaine arrived at Athens airport earlier in the day and were met by Sotiris, who spent a little time with them at nearby Mt. Immitos, before the main party arrived. Butterflies seen included Cleopatra, Balkan Marbled White, Freyer’s Grayling, Balkan Grayling, Great Sooty Satyr, Southern White Admiral, Clouded Yellow, Swallowtail and Scarce Swallowtail. They then returned to the airport to meet the other guests (who arrived somewhat later than we’d expected due to a flight delay) and once assembled, drove to Delphi and our hotel, run by the charming Vaso, arriving late in the evening.

Day 2, Sunday 19th June. This was Greek Pentecost and meant that many local shops were closed but Vaso’s mum had made some tasty spinach pies for lunch and to these we added some excellent nectarines. High cloud would cover us most of the day, keeping temperatures comfortable, yet enabling the butterflies to fly. Before breakfast Geranium Bronze, Scarce Swallowtail, Swallowtail, Cleopatra and Lattice Brown were seen outside the hotel. House Martins had their nests built above the balconies and Red-rumped Swallows were flying above us, along with Barn Swallows and Swifts. A nest of Rock Nuthatch was built in the roof of an abandoned house about a hundred metres away. The juveniles were just starting to fly around the nest and their parents were encouraging them with their loud Geranium Bronze © Gillian voices.

Stop 1. Our first stop was at a meadow covered in the wonderful pink flowered Trigonella, Kidney Vetch, Clovers and other plants, all with a rich aroma. With abundant nectar, the bees were feeding frenetically, their hum intense. The meadow was also full of butterflies… These included Mountain Small White, Zephyr, Turquoise and Adonis Blues, Sooty Copper, Clouded Yellow, Hungarian Skipper, Delattin’s Grayling, Wood White, Speckled Wood, Brimstone, Wall, Balkan and Marbled Whites, Ilex Hairstreak, Meadow Brown, Spotted and Lesser Spotted Fritillaries. Burnet moths including Zygaena fausta were also present. A female Turquoise Blue was seen laying eggs on Kidney Vetch and Peter also found White-banded Grayling. This was only realised after reviewing his photos. White Banded Grayling © Peter

Adonis Blue © Peter Turquoise Blue © Ian

©Greenwings 2016 3

Next to the road, on Dwarf Elder, a number of Clearwing moths, Heath and Silver-washed Fritillaries were seen. A Delattin’s Grayling was seen also (later confirmed by Sotiris). Some of the Heath frits here had a striking appearance, with certain individuals displaying an incredible variety of forms, some with very dark wide borders to the upperside hindwings while others more closely resembled the normal form.

Stop 2. We moved along to another meadow and were greeted by a slightly worn male Amanda's Blue. A dazzling male Grecian Copper was also seen posing with wings open, trying to obtain as much sunshine as possible.

Idas Blue © Gillian Grecian Copper © Chris & Jackie

Heath Fritillary © Ian Zephyr Blue © Emma

Further into the meadow, a number of skippers appeared, the first being Small Skipper, followed by Large, Mallow and Essex. More Turquoise Blues were found, along with Idas, Zephyr, Holly, Chapman's and Common Blues, Heath Fritillary, Great Banded Grayling, Balkan Marbled White and Brimstone. A few Red Helleborines could be seen at the edges of the fir woodland, so a few of us moved into the shade to look for more orchids. Many more Red Helleborines were found, as were Broad-leaved Helleborines, still in bud and Bird’s-Nest Orchid. A Wood White was seen flying around the very large flowers of Lathyrus grandiflorus that formed patches at the woodland margins.

Stop 3. The next meadow at well above 1000 metres altitude, and with a dry creek in the middle, was festooned with all manner of nectar bearing plants. This proved to be a haven for Sooty Copper, Hungarian Skipper, Grizzled Skipper, Large Tortoiseshell, Great Banded Grayling, Small Tortoiseshell, Ilex Hairstreak, Amanda's, Idas, Eastern Zephyr, Common and Chapman's Blues, Small Heath, Meadow Brown and Brown Argus. A Camberwell Beauty caused something of a stir (as they do) gliding serenely down the road and landing in a bush where it was ‘tracked’ and photographed before travelling further on its way. Jennifer and Emma spotted a Cardinal doing much the same as

©Greenwings 2016 4

the Cambi, only much faster and without stopping! We finished with a pairing of Idas Blues and a couple of Lizards scurrying through the vegetation as we ate lunch. It was a perfect spot.

Amanda’s Blue © Gillian Clouded Apollo © Chris & Jackie

Hungarian Skipper © Emma Greek Clouded Yellow © Peter

Stop 4. After lunch, we moved up to the mountain plateau at about 1,800m altitude. The weather was nice, not too cold and with just a mild wind. Here, Greek Clouded Yellows were flying busily over the sward, barely stopping for photos. Clouded Apollo was also seen here, and Escher's Blue. More Idas Blues, Black-veined Whites and Small Tortoiseshells were found. Wall Browns were basking on the rocks in this interesting landscape above the tree line, where beautiful low-growing shrubs, such as Spiny Milk-vetch, Cranesbills and Thymes, Oberthur’s Grizzled Skipper © Andy provided nectar for the butterflies and other insects. A Toadflax with small yellow flowers was found and admired by Jackie and Jenny. A few small wild roses grew at this altitude, with small whitish-rose coloured flowers and also a very aromatic herb with tiny white flowers in crowded whorls, Nepeta parnassica, which is endemic to the area.

Stop 5. We took the same road back down and arrived at a woodland meadow where both Idas and Silver-studded Blues were noted, plus Great Sooty Satyr, Grizzled Skipper, Oberthur's Grizzled Skipper, Oriental Marbled Skipper, Comma, Hungarian Skipper and Lattice Brown. We returned to the hotel at about 5pm, in time to prepare for dinner at one of the wonderful restaurants in Delphi.

©Greenwings 2016 5

th Day 3, Monday 20 June. Blue skies greeted us over breakfast on the day of our visit to the famous archaeological site of Delphi. With the thermometer reading 30 Celsius, we took plenty of sun cream and water with us.

Stop 1. We ascended each layer of the site, step by step, arriving first at the ancient government buildings. Very soon we were admiring the spectacular Apollo’s temple, the fabled home of the Pythia or Oracle of Delphi. The temple was built in the 4th Century BC, against a magnificent backdrop of high cliffs and Cypress trees. The earliest buildings were of wood, later replaced by a succession of more beautiful and grand marble buildings. Then on to the gymnasium with fantastic views overlooking the temple and valley, and finally the stadium. Emma, who had a keen interest in ancient Greece, and Sotiris, gave us an idea about the rich history and mythology of this place.

While visiting archaeological sites in Greece, usually you get opportunities to enjoy nature as well and on the way up we found Ilex Hairstreak, Scarce Swallowtail (occasionally fluttering around Almond trees, presumably laying eggs) and Common Blue.

At the stadium, Eastern Bath White and Kruper's Small White were seen. It was certainly worth the ‘climb’. Grizzled and Oriental Marbled Skippers were here, spotted by John, and Ian and Sue found Blue-spot Hairstreak. Bird-wise we were treated to some very lively and noisy Rock Nuthatches, whose calls could be heard across the site. Kestrel and Crag Martin were also seen.

Group at Delphi © John

Kruper’s Small White © Gillian

Blue-spot Hairstreak © Ian Delphi © John

Stop 2. Our next stop was just below Delphi, where we searched an area of dry grasses, Jerusalem Sage and Thymes for Grass Jewel, Europe's smallest butterfly. Andy soon found this exquisite little creature no bigger than a large ladybird. They were flying up and down a dry stony track, sometimes

©Greenwings 2016 6

settling on the path. We also saw one apparently laying eggs on a plant of the Genista family. Soon, we were on our hands and knees among the vegetation and stones to photograph this exquisite butterfly. It was by now 39 Celsius but such was the desire to enjoy this beautiful creature. Peter with his predilection for other bugs, also photographed an interesting robber fly and some hoppers.

Jewel photography © Peter Grass Jewel © Ian

Stop 3. After all the excitement and heat, we made a quick stop for well deserved refreshments in Arachova, before moving to a large meadow in the heart of Mt. Parnassos. The place becomes a small lake during the winter and even now a few patches of water or mud could be seen. Here we ate lunch and then spread out looking for butterflies. It didn’t take long to find a collection of assembled butterflies, puddling. These included Olive and Mallow Skippers, Delattin’s Grayling, Heath Fritillary and Idas, Eastern Zephyr, Silver-studded, Common, Chapman’s, Turquoise, Grecian Anomalous and Adonis Blues. Other butterflies were coming in all the time with Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Queen of Spain, Nettle Tree and both Southern and Mountain Small Whites appearing.

Puddling butterflies © Ian

Puddling butterflies © Ian Chapman’s Blue © John

©Greenwings 2016 7

After lunch, we moved deeper into the meadow, finding Large Tortoiseshell, Great Banded Grayling, Silver-washed Fritillary, Tufted Marbled Skipper and Clouded and Greek Clouded Yellows. A wet creek cut through the area with many beautiful flowering plants on either side including a wonderful Galdiolus illycus. Andy and Jackie found Clouded Apollo nectaring here. Sooty and Small Coppers were here too, with plenty of Turquoise Blues in pristine condition and more Ilex Hairstreaks. Ian and Sue found the endemic form of Mazarine Blue Cyaniris semiargus parnassia, Krueper’s Small White, Anomalous Blue and a pair of Lesser Fiery Coppers. Small Heath, Meadow Brown, Grecian Anomalous Blue, Painted Lady (there was a migration by the looks of things) Comma, Southern White Admiral, Balkan Marbled White and Small and Grizzled Skippers all appeared.

Bird-wise, Common Buzzard was seen, Goldfinches were present in the tall trees at our parking spot and Jennifer spotted a Cuckoo. Some of us went into the woods and found Helleborine and the peculiar parasitic plant, Yellow Bird’s-nest, with its pale yellow colour all over.

Mountain Small White © Ian Olive Skipper © Andy

Delattin’s Grayling © Sotiris Parnassos Mazarine Blue © Ian

Lesser Fiery Coppers © Ian Anomalous Blue © Ian

©Greenwings 2016 8

Meadow Brown © John Parnassos meadow © John

Valerian feeders © Peter

Pearl - bordered Fritillary © Peter

Stop 4. Our last stop was at some roadside Valerian, on Peter’s request. Here, Broad-bordered and Humming Bird Hawk-moths were found, along with Silver-washed Fritillary, Southern White Admiral, Painted Lady, Delattin’s Grayling and Pearl-bordered Fritillary.

We returned to the hotel at 6pm, ready for dinner at 8.30 in Delphi, where we dined on a wonderful selection of dishes including stuffed tomato, Chicken fillet, and Pork served with lemon sauce.

Day 4, Tuesday 21st June. This was the day of our transfer from Delphi to Kalavryta. The first part of the journey would involve travelling westwards across the Amfissa plain, with its olive groves which have been well known since antiquity. We would then stop for a while looking for butterflies, then take lunch at a local taverna, before continuing our journey across the bridge which connects mainland Greece to the Peloponnese. From there we would drive east Stream at Giona © Sotiris to our hotel in the foothills of Mt. Chelmos.

Stop 1. We arrived at the open hillsides and small valley fed from the Kria Vrisi creek. Butterflies here included Balkan Marbled White, Silver- studded, Common, Chapman's, Turquoise, and Long-tailed Blues, Cleopatra, Swallowtail, and Mallow Skipper. The area was also full of Orthoptera that Sotiris identified as Calliptamus barbatus. These were observed in great numbers in the drier parts, along with a single Migratory Locust, Locusta migratoria. Yellow-bellied toads

©Greenwings 2016 9

were floating motionless in the water and Mints in full flower were emitting their strong scent. In the creek, Southern Skimmers and Scarlet Darters were busy hunting or finding mates.

Cleopatra © Peter

Stop 2. We moved higher to a meadow lined with trees, offering shade and the heady scent of Acinos suaveolens, a kind of Calamint. Cleopatra, Small Tortoiseshell, Spotted and Silver-washed Fritillaries, Ilex Hairstreak, Scarce Swallowtail, Wall, Balkan Marbled White and Scarce Swallowtail were seen, the latter species ovipositing on Almond-leaved Pear. Large Tortoiseshells glided by, only occasionally settling but nonetheless offering a few photo opportunities.

Balkan ;Marbled White © Gillian

Common Blues © John

Large Tortoiseshell © Peter

©Greenwings 2016 10

Stop 3. We took lunch at Prosilia, a very small village at around 1000m. A lovely meal was served in the garden, under the welcoming shade of big oak trees. There was also a swimming pool, which some of us availed ourselves of. In this lovely setting, we saw Purple Hairstreak flitting around in the oaks, Large Tortoiseshell, Great Banded Grayling and Southern White Admiral. One of the Purple Hairstreaks came down much lower into a Walnut tree, where it was photographed with ease.

Near Giona © Sotiris

Stop 4. After lunch we continued our journey to the suspension bridge following the beautiful coast for much of the way. After crossing the bridge, we stopped for coffee at a small cafe before finally arriving in Kalavryta around 8pm. Here, a nice fruit and wine welcome was awaiting us in the hotel’s garden. With beautiful views over Chelmos, it was the perfect place to sit each evening and share photographs and opinions of the results of each day’s excursions, before having our Greek dinners in the coolness of the Mediterranean evenings!

Bridge © Chris & Jackie Purple Hairstreak © Gillian

©Greenwings 2016 11

Day 5, Wednesday 22nd June. Stop 1. We set out for Mt. Chelmos on the road that climbs up to Xirokambos plateau, where the ski resort is situated—at an altitude of 1800m. Before reaching that point, we made our first stop at a well known orchid location, a forest clearing by the road. The dry stems of orchids were obvious, but none were in flower. The dry leaves of Autumn Crocus, the Greek endemic Colchicum graecum, were there in big numbers too. We noticed that the wind had got up, making the butterflies keep low and cling to the vegetation. Nonetheless, Silver-studded, Chapman's and Common Blues, Grecian Copper, Delattin’s Grayling, Clouded Yellow, Painted Lady, Large White, Brimstone, Camberwell Beauty and a worn female Pontic Blue were seen.

Searching Chelmos © Peter

Stop 2. Moving on, we passed a pair of Serins before arriving at our second location, where we would search for and successfully find Odd-spot Blue. We found shelter by moving around the slopes where the endemic Hawthorn, Crataegus pycnoloba and also the butterfly’s sole foodplant, Acantholimon echinus grow. Sotiris found the first Odd-spot, and eventually more followed. The species is extremely localized and rare. In fact it is a remnant of times, millions of years ago, when the area of the Aegean Sea was still a continuous landmass that connected modern time mainland Greece and Turkey. Odd-Spot survives still on two mountains of the Peloponnese, while the core of its distribution is in Turkey, the other side of the Aegean! No other member of the genus Odd-spot Blue © Gillian

©Greenwings 2016 12

Turanana is present in Europe other than the one we were watching. These delightful little butterflies were basking on rocks, feeding on thyme or seeking out their larval foodplant. The majority were females, and in total, we found only a small number, perhaps 4 individuals. Other species included Dark Green Fritillary, Silver-studded, Eastern Baton and Common Blues, Painted Lady and Camberwell Beauty.

Dark Green Fritillary © Emma

Eastern Baton Blue © Ian Silver-studded Blue Ian

Stop 3. We moved to a brook with running water in the middle of a small valley, creating nice microhabitats for butterflies. By scrutinising the butterflies we found the endemic Chelmos Zephyr Blue Plebejus brethertoni, Silver-studded and Common Blues. Gill homed in on the first of only two Glanville Fritillaries. Knapweed Fritillary was also here. Diligent searching turned up Blue Argus, and as we watched it fly off and return, it disturbed a solitary Greek Mazarine Blue. Turquoise and then Meleager’s Blues were seen a little later, but unfortunately Chelmos Blue was absent. Other

Blue Argus © Sotiris Chelmos Zephyr Blue © Sotiris

©Greenwings 2016 13

butterflies included Balkan Marbled White, Comma and Black-veined White. As we ate lunch at the roadside, a number of Cardinals glided past, their dark green orange suffusion very noticeable. Peter wished they would settle on some thistle or other flower but alas they were far too busy!

Stop 4. After lunch we moved to a track where Persian Skipper, Great Banded Grayling, Ripart’s Anomalous Blue, Chapman’s and Common Blues, and Great Sooty Satyr were using the Thymes and Salvias. Close-by, Silver-washed Fritillary and Hummingbird Hawk-moth were supping nectar from a large clump of Valerian growing at head height which afforded good photo opportunities.

Ripart’s Anomalous Blue © Ian Persian Skipper © Ian

Stop 5. We made a quick stop for refreshments at a local taverna where a patch of Danewort held Great Banded Grayling and Brimstone and some interesting Zygaenidae, before moving to our last areas of the day. These were at a water trough and a track with Vetches. At the trough we found Silver-studded, Common and Chelmos Zephyr Blue brethertonii puddling, whilst at the Vetches, two worn Pontic Blue males and a Great Sooty Satyr © Andy beautiful male Grecian Copper were photographed. Another male Grecian was observed briefly, flying through. Later that evening, as we went to town to collect water and fruit supplies, we spotted two Cirl Buntings on the roadside.

Day 6, Thursday 23rd June. Today, some of the group would take the cog railway from Kalavryta to Diakopto, a journey of around an hour, the others would make a stop by the River Vouraikos, before meeting the rest of our party at Diakopto for a search for Two-tailed Pasha.

Stop 1. The visit to the river produced a number of species, including, Silver-washed Fritillary, Large Tortoiseshell, Wood White, Cleopatra, Great Banded Grayling, and a gathering of dragonflies such as Greek Goldenring, and Beautiful Demoiselle.

Stop 2. After assembling together again, we made our way to Vouraikos Gorge, and parked in the shade by the river. The gorge is an impressive feature, with wild Oleander and Strawberry Tree (the

©Greenwings 2016 14

larval host of Pasha), lining the sides. The temperature in the shade was already around 35 degrees C but the interest in Pashas kept us going. We tested the bait he had been preparing the last couple of days, and it worked well! A Two-Tailed Pasha came and almost landed on his hand, while he was holding the container with the bait!

A Freyer’s Grayling was observed on a trunk and several Southern White Admirals were flying along the river. Chaste-Trees were in full flower. Baits were laid along the way and soon 2 or 3 butterflies seemed aroused. Emma found Southern White Admiral, posing nicely for photos in the shade. We were fortunate in having arranged a morning visit to the site when conditions were cooler, enabling us to find Eastern Bath White, Lattice Brown, and Swallowtail. Ian also found and photographed Mediterranean Skipper, the only one of the holiday.

Back at the baits, a few Pashas began settling offering photo opportunities and Chris, with his experience of snakes, found a juvenile Grass Snake swimming in the river. We lingered a while but with soaring temperatures, decided to go for lunch and the shade of Tamarix trees, by the blue sea

Two-tailed Pasha © John Southern Comma © Gillian of Pounta beach, some opting for a swim or paddle.

Stop 2. After lunch, we started ascending the mountain again, on the way to Kalavrita. We stopped off at a nice semi-shaded place with a small river, Oriental Plane trees and some cherry orchards. We counted around 20 different butterfly species here! A Large Tortoiseshell was flying in the trees. Great Banded Grayling and Delattin’s Grayling were also flying. A very docile Lattice Brown landed on the fallen dry leaves and allowed us to get extremely close for a nice view. Turquoise, Lang’s Short-tailed and Common Blue were flying in the more exposed places along with several Skippers.

Stop 3. Mega Spileo. This monastery is built in the entrance of a cave, at the foot of a vertical rock. It was built more that 1500 years ago and is considered one of the oldest monasteries in Greece. The scenery is very fascinating and the Monastery © John

©Greenwings 2016 15

gardens, with springs, running water and flowering plants, hold a great number of butterflies. Cleopatras, Ilex Hairstreak, Grecian Anomalous Blue, Silver-washed Fritillary, Painted Lady, Delattin’s Grayling, Lattice Brown and Clouded Yellow were all seen flying around. Chris and Jackie found three Purple Hairstreaks resting on a leaf, enjoying a little shade. Those of us that had missed Southern Comma so far, had their opportunity to enjoy the beautiful butterfly here too. We walked up and down the path in front of the monastery and some of us even visited the interior of the monastery, to enjoy the Byzantine paintings on the huge walls and the church, the history of the place and the atmosphere of a world that slips into obscurity as time changes…

Stop 3. After returning to the hotel, a few of us visited a meadow nearby. Unfortunately it had been severely grazed, so that many of the nice flowers were gone. The only butterfly offerings were Balkan Ilex Hairstreak © John Marbled White, Grecian Anomalous and Ripart's Anomalous Blues, Cleopatra, and Common Blue.

Day 7, Friday 24th June. Today we would visit a beautiful woodland glade near Zarouchla. The whole area is densely forested, with a large stream from the Styx waterfall passing through, just below the meadow. We’d then visit a lake, formed by an earthquake about 100 years ago and from there move on to an old semi- deserted village full of butterflies. As we set out, the thermometer was reading 18 Celsius soit looked like we would have optimum temperatures for butterfly watching.

Stop 1. We made a brief stop in Zarouchla where a few blues and Meadow Browns were seen on the brambles. A riverside investigation produced a wonderful Camberwell Beauty, basking on a leaf and then a rock, enabling the group to take some nice photos. John also found Sloe Hairstreak. After filling up our water bottles at the village fountain, we set off for our glade in the forest.

Sloe Hairstreak © John Camberwell Beauty ©Gillian

©Greenwings 2016 16

Stop 2. An impromptu stop at a small clearing with flowers and butterfly activity produced Dark Green Fritillary and lots of Brimstones.

Stop 3. The track up to the glade was full of flowers and wild strawberries, some of which we couldn't resist! As the tracks warmed, butterflies floated by and upon reaching the glade, Large Tortoiseshell, Camberwell Beauty, and our first Large Wall Brown were quickly spotted. Soon we were investigating all the blues, and this produced our second Meleager's of the trip.

A small glade held a number of blues and coppers, including Sooty Copper and the dark summer form of Small Copper. Occasionally a medium to large size Frit would bomb overhead or down the track. Investigations proved most of these to be Dark Green Fritillaries but as we wentahead scouting we found Silver-washed and our first Niobe Fritillary. We soon spotted Marbled Fritillary

Brimstone © Peter

Large Wall © Chris & Jackie

Meleager’s Blue © Ian

Small Copper © John

©Greenwings 2016 17

and more Niobe, the latter complete with the tiny little spot on the hindwing underside andthe more complete row of pale panels, which help to differentiate the species from High Brown.

Elaine and John were treated to a flyover by a fresh male Grecian Copper whilst investigating Small Coppers, and around our feet, Wood Whites were egg-laying on Dorycnium. Gill was soon photographing Pearl-bordered Fritillary, one of several seen. This wonderful place was absolutely full of bees too and Peter found several, including a melanistic form of bumble and several stunning Blue Carpenters.

The butterflies kept drifting in, and soon we saw Cleopatra, Clouded Yellow (plus helice white form females), Painted Lady (probably the most common butterfly here), Comma, Small Heath, Meadow Brown, Dingy Skipper, Queen of Spain, Black-veined White and Delattin’s Grayling. The blues here were mainly Chapman's, Silver-studded and Common. However, a bright sky blue butterfly appeared over the track but disappeared not to be seen again, or so it seemed...

Wood White © John Dingy Skipper © Sotiris

Niobe Fritillary © Greenwings Escher’s Blue ssp. dalmaticus © Ian

©Greenwings 2016 18

As we sat for lunch in the shade, Ian produced a photo of the dalmaticus form of Escher's Blue. The bold markings and black wavy hindwing margins of the bright blue uppersides, enabled a confident pronouncement. A quick glance in Pamperis confirmed this. It was not a species any of us had seen before, so it proved to be a very interesting find.

It is worth mentioning the Large Whites present, all in pristine condition and extremely beautiful too. A total of 24 species were seen here. Birds were rather quiet, the only species of note being Grey Wagtail, seen by the river. Mark also enjoyed the woodland orchids, like Red Helleborine and Broad- Leaved Helleborine. Nice stands of tall Dactylorhiza saccifera were in full flower. Inside the wood Sotiris found one Greater Butterfly Orchid.

Large White © Chris & Jackie

Queen of Spain © Gillian Red Helleborine © Gillian

Stops 4 and 5. After lunch, we drove a little way to the river and then to Lake Tsivlos. The scenery was astonishing, with all the water coming down from the snowy mountain peaks and rushing through the shoaling river. By the bridge, we were treated to the spectacle of dozens, if not hundreds of Beautiful Demoiselles, alighting before our eyes. Their appearance as they flitted in and out of the sunlight, was like as dancing sapphires. Another Grey Wagtail, Dingy Skipper and a few Common Blues were seen flying over the pebble shoals. Sotiris also rescued a Greek Goldenring Dragonfly which had fallen into the water.

We moved up to the beautiful lake at Tsivlos, surrounded by huge pines. As we walked along the path that surrounds the lake, a male Cirl Bunting, in all its colours, came down to drink water. Dragonflies were flying around the reeds and Andrew searched the woodland looking for Graylings, but they were moving fast and difficult to identify. A very docile and colourful male Peloponnese

©Greenwings 2016 19

Wall Lizard, stood patiently until almost all of us had taken photographs of him! While Peter and Sue didn’t miss the chance for a quick swim, the rest of us observed a turtle basking at the end of a dead branch poking out of the water. Butterflies seen included Balkan Marbled White, Great Banded Grayling, Painted Lady, Common Blue and Eastern Bath White.

Lake Tsivlos © Gillian

Stop 6. We moved on to a semi-deserted village which had been celebrating the feast of St John the Baptist. People from villages all around came to celebrate and join in a shared dinner. The church with its mainly modern murals, was well worth a look but our interest was butterflies, so after chatting briefly with the villagers we wandered down the street to the river, following Camberwell Beauties and other butterflies on our way. One roadside Bramble had some interesting species including Blue-spot Hairstreak, Ilex Hairstreak, Ripart's Anomalous and Long-tailed Blues, some worn, some fresh. The interest grew, as we found a lot of butterflies gathering around the cherry

Long-tailed Blue © Gillian Large Tortoiseshell © Gillian

©Greenwings 2016 20

trees in the village. Lots of Large Tortoiseshells were found, some feeding on cherries, while others just basked on the leaves. With them, Lattice Brown, Nettle Tree Butterfly and Delattin’s Grayling. Peter and Mark wandered up the road and found some puddling blues, including Escher's and Chapman's. Around 6.30pm we had a quick drink at the local taverna, then moved back towards our base on Chelmos, stopping on the way at a creek where predominantly Silver-studded Blues were found roosting in the grasses.

Day 8, Saturday 25th June. Return to the UK. Before leaving for the airport, some of us visited the monument and museum in Kalavryta. On the way back to Athens, we stopped off at the Corinth Canal, built over 100 years ago. On arriving at the airport, Sotiris took a few of the guests who had later flights to Mt. Immitos, where a number of species including Balkan and Freyer’s Graylings were seen.

Footnote: A total of 97 species of butterflies were seen during a very enjoyable week. Greenwings would like to thank all their guests on this trip for their good humour, and enthusiasm at all times, and also for their help in compiling species lists and the use of their photos in the report.

Photo gallery and species lists overleaf

©Greenwings 2016 21

Heath Fritillary © Emma

Marbled White © Emma

©Greenwings 2016 22

Freyer’s Grayling © John Clouded Yellows © Gillian

Comma © Peter

Butterflies of Greece Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri 2016 species checklist 19th 20th 21st 22rd 23rd 24th 25th Jun Jun Jun Jun Jun Jun Jun Butterflies day day day day day day day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Apollos, Swallowtails Family Papilionidae 1 Swallowtail Papilio machaon       2 Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius        3 Clouded Apollo Parnassius mnemosyne   Whites and Yellows Family Pieridae 4 Black-veined White Aporia crataegi       5 Large White Pieris brassicae        6 Small White Pieris rapae      7 Southern Small White Pieris mannii  8 Mountain Small White Pieris ergane  9 Krueper’s Small White Artogeia krueperi  10 Green-veined White Pieris napi  11 Eastern Bath White Pontia edusa     12 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea        13 Greek Clouded Yellow Colias aurorinia    14 Berger’s Clouded Yellow Colias alfacariensis `  15 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni      16 Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra        17 Wood White Leptidea sinapis      Blues, Coppers, Hairstreaks Family Lycaenidae 18 Purple Hairstreak Neozephyrus quercus    19 Ilex Hairstreak Satyrium ilicis       20 Sloe Hairstreak Satyrium acaciae 21 Blue-spot Hairstreak Satyrium spini   22 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas     23 Grecian Copper Lycaena ottomana    24 Sooty Copper Lycaena tityrus    25 Lesser Fiery Copper Lycaena thersamon  26 Long-tailed Blue Lampides boeticus     27 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus   28 Odd-spot Blue Turanana endymion  29 Eastern Baton Blue Pseudophilotes vicrama  30 Grass Jewel Chilades trochilus  31 Eastern Zephyr Blue Plebejus sepphirus  32 Chelmos Zephyr Blue Plebejus brethertonii   33 Silver-studded Blue Pebejus argus      34 Idas Blue Plebejus idas    35 Brown Argus Aricia agestis       36 Blue Argus Ultraaricia anteros  37 Greek Mazarine Blue Cyaniris semiargus  helena 38 Mazarine Blue Cyaniris semiargus  parnassia 39 Ripart’s Anomalous Blue Polyommatus ripartii     40 Grecian Anomalous Blue Polyommatus aroaniensis    41 Anomalous Blue Polyommatus admetus  42 Escher’s Blue P. escheri ssp.dalmatica  43 Chapman’s Blue Polyommatus thersites       44 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus       45 Amanda’s Blue Polyommatus amandus    46 Turquoise Blue Polyommatus dorylas      47 Adonis Blue Polyommatus bellargus  

48 Meleager’s Blue Polyommatus daphnis   49 Pontic Blue Neolysandra coelestina  50 Geranium Bronze Cacyreus marshalli   Aristocrats and Browns Family Nympahlidae 51 Nettle Tree Butterfly Libythea celtis   52 Two-tailed Pasha Charaxes jasius  53 Southern White Admiral Limenitis reducta       54 Camberwell Beauty Nymphalis antiopa     55 Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloros       56 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta  57 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui       58 Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae    59 Comma Polygonia c-album    60 Southern Comma Polygona egea  61 Cardinal Argynnis pandora    62 Silver-washed Fritillary Argynnis paphia       63 Dark Green Fritillary Argynnis aglaja  64 Niobe Fritillary Argynnis niobe  65 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia    66 Marbled Fritillary Brenthis daphne  67 Pearl-bordered Fritillary Boloria euphrosyne   68 Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia  69 Spotted Fritillary Melitaea didyma    70 Lesser Spotted Fritillary Melitaea trivia  71 Heath Fritillary Mellitaea athalia   72 Knapweed Fritillary Melitaea phoebe  73 Marbled White Melanargia galathea    74 Balkan Marbled White Melanargia larissa       75 Freyer’s Grayling Neohipparchia fatua  76 Balkan Grayling Hipparchia senthes  77 Grayling species Hipparchia sp.      77 Great Sooty Satyr Satyrus ferula     78 Great Banded Grayling Brintesia circe       79 Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina        80 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria      81 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera       82 Large Wall Brown Lasiommata maera  83 Lattice Brown Kirinia roxelana     84 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus       Skippers Family Hesperiidae 85 Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus malvae   86 Hungarian Skipper Spialia orbifer   87 Persian Skipper Spialia phlomidis  88 Olive Skipper Pyrgus serratulae ? 89 Mallow Skipper Carcharodus alcaea   90 Tufted Marbled Skipper Carcharodus flocciferus   91 Oriental Marbled Skipper Carcharodus orientalis  ?  92 Oberthur’s Grizzled Skipper Pyrgus armoricanus  93 Dingy Skipper Erynnis tages   94 Essex Skipper Thymelicus lineola   95 Small Skipper Thymelicus sylvestris       96 Large Skipper Ochlodes sylvanus     97 Mediterranean Skipper Gegenes nostradamus 

Burnets & notable moths day day day day day day day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 Auspicious Burnet Zygaena fausta  2 Slender Scotch Burnet Zygaena loti   3 5 Spot Burnet Zygaena trifolii  4 6 Spot Burnet Zygaena filipendulae    5 White Collared Burnet Zygaena lavandulae  6 Forester Adscita sp  7 Clearwing sp.  8 Hummingbird Hawk-moth Macroglossum stellatarum     9 Broad Bordered Bee Hawk- Hemaris fuciformis  moth Dragonflies day day day day day day day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 Greek Goldenring Cordulegaster helladica?  2 Beautiful Demoiselle Calopteryx virgo   3 Southern Skimmer Orthetrum brunneum  4 Common Clubtail Gomphus vulgatissimus  5 Scarlet Darter Crocothemis erythraea 

Other notable insects day day day day day day day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 Thread-winged Lacewing Nemoptera sinuata  2 Rose Chafer Beetle Cetonia aurata  3 Mantid species ?  4 Antlion  5 Robber fly species  Amphibians and reptiles day day day day day day day 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 Tesselated Water Snake Natrix tessellata   2 Peloponnese Wall Lizard Podarcis peloponnesiacus  3 Spur-thighed Tortoise Testudo graeca  4 Eastern Green Lizard Lacerta trilineata    5 Erhard’s Wall Lizaed Podarcis erhardii  6 Terrapin sp.  Birds seen or heard throughout the week 1 Common Swift Apus apus 2 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 3 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 4 House Martin Delichon urbicum 5 Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris 6 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 7 Stonechat Saxicola rubicola 8 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica 9 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio 10 Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris 11 Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer 12 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 13 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis 14 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 15 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 16 Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla

17 Blackbird Turdus merula 18 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 19 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 20 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris 21 Linnet Carduelis cannabina 22 Serin Serinus serinus 23 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra 24 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus 25 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix 26 European Jay Garrulus glandarius 27 Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus 28 Quail Coturnix coturnix 29 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 30 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 31 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 32 White Wagtail Motacilla alba 33 Hoopoe Upupa epops 34 Buzzard Buteo buteo 35 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Notable Plants seen 1 Kidney Vetch Anthyllis vulneraria 2 Danewort Sambucus nigra 3 Trigonella 4 Red Helleborine Cephalanthera rubra 5 Broad-leaved Helleborine Epipactis helleborine 6 Sack-carrying Dactylorhiza Dactylorhiza saccifera 7 Marsh Orchid Dactylorhiza iberica 8 Fragrant Orchid Gymnadenia conopsea 9 Everlasting Pea Lathyrus grandiflorus 10 Spiny Milk-Vetch Astragalus kentrophyta 11 Catmint Nepeta parnassica 12 Yellow Bird’s nest Monotropa hypopitys 13 Calamint sp. Acinos suaveolens 14 Autumn Crocus Colchicum graecum 15 Hawthorn sp. Crataegus pycnoloba 16 Prickly Thrift Acantholimon echinus 17 Red Valerian Centranthus ruber 18 Oriental Plane Platanus orientalis 19 Tamarix Tamarix 20 Strawberry Tree Arbutus unedo