JOHN MUIR TRUST 16 Why the Trust is taking a stand on Stronelairg 20 Appeal launched to JOURNAL acquire a wild gem in Wales 32 Path restoration and 55 AUTUMN 2013 the repairing of Schiehallion

e wild and the wind Protecting wild land – the fi rst step to hope and healing 2 NEWS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

‘Wildness puts us in our place. It reminds us that our plans are small and somewhat absurd. It reminds us why, in those cases in which our plans might influence many future generations, we ought to choose carefully.’ – Barbara Kingsolver, Small Wonder

If you believe that wildness is essential, join us www.jmt.org CONTENTS 03

10 20 REGULARS 05 Chief executive’s welcome 06 News round-up 15 Testimonial HF Holidays 30 Books Feral: Searching for enchantment on the frontiers of rewilding, George Monbiot; e Ancient Pinewoods of Scotland: A Traveller’s Guide, Clifton Bain; Snowdon: e Story of a Welsh Mountain, Jim Perrin 32 Out and about A recent survey has highlighted the success of path restoration work at Schiehallion over the past decade – complete with striking ‘before 24 and after’ photos, writes Dan Bailey 34 Interview Nicky McClure catches up with David Fulford, the artist whose expressive landscapes are captivating visitors to the Trust’s new Wild Space visitor centre in Pitlochry

26 FEATURES

10 e wild and the wind In a reprint of an essay rst published in the Sunday Herald, Susan Wright explores our paradoxical relationship with John Muir 16 Taking a stand Alan McCombes outlines how the giant wind farm proposed at Stronelairg in the Monadhliath Mountains poses a very real 22 34 threat to an outstanding area of wild land 19 Who wants to protect Scotland’s wild land? PHOTOGRAPHY ”CLOCKWISE FROM TOP•: JOE CORNISH/2020VISION; ISTOCK; AL SMITH; DAVID FULFORD; LISA EVANS/FALKIRK COUNCIL; SUSAN WRIGHT Responses to a recent Scottish Government consultation show that a broad range of JOURNAL 55, AUTUMN 2013 people and organisations want better protection for Scotland’s wild land Editor: Richard Rowe [email protected] 20 Buying a wild gem in Wales e Trust has launched an appeal to secure Managing editor: an area of wild land in the Rhinogydd area of Susan Wright [email protected] Snowdonia – a rst step into land ownership Design and production: outside of Scotland. Will Williams explains CMYK Design www.cmyk-design.co.uk 22 Dams on the doorstep Students at Larbert High School have This journal is printed on Revive 100 uncoated If you would rather receive publications from produced an e-book full of evocative writing stock, a recycled grade paper containing 100% the John Muir Trust electronically, please post-consumer waste and manufactured at a email [email protected] in response to recent Award activity at a local mill accredited with ISO 14001 environmental nature reserve. Rebecca Logsdon explains management standard. The pulp used in this The John Muir Trust is a Scottish charitable product is bleached using an Elemental company limited by guarantee. Registered By leaves we live Chlorine Free (ECF) process. We use a Scottish office: Tower House, Station Road, Pitlochry 24 printer, Thomson Colour, which has excellent PH16 5AN Susan Wright reects on an inspiring visit to environmental credentials, achieving the Trust’s property in Knoydart environmental standard ISO4001 plus FSC and Charity No. SC002061. Company No. PEFC standards all in 2006. SCO81620 26 In the footsteps of Muir As part of the Trust’s celebration of John HEAD OFFICE Muir’s famous 1,000-mile walk, Al Smith took ‘method’ walking to new heights on a three-day COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: expedition in the Cairngorms John Muir Trust t. 01796 470 080 ASSYNT DECONSTRUCTION, Tower House w. www.jmt.org NIALL BENVIE/2020VISION

Station Road INSIDE FRONT COVER Pitlochry follow us on twitter: PHOTOGRAPHY: WALKING ON RUM, Perthshire PH16 5AN @JohnMuirTrust DAVID LINTERN GEARED UP FOR YOU SINCE 1962

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From the chief executive

WELCOME TO THE AUTUMN EDITION of the In the previous edition of the Journal, we paid John Muir Trust Journal. Once again, we include a special attention to John Muir himself and I’m wide range of articles, which is as it should be for an pleased to say that we are not the only ones who have organisation that approaches wild land protection acknowledged the huge contribution he made, and from a variety of angles. I hope our members, and continues to make, through his legacy. We had a those reading the Journal for the  rst time, see the positive response to an article written by Susan Wright common thread that runs through for the Sunday Herald newspaper earlier this year and such activities. Whether it’s our we thought it deserved to be read by a very discerning campaigning work, practical audience – our members. I hope you enjoy the piece. e orts on the ground, or the John If it touches a nerve, or any other part of you for that Muir Award, all are part of the matter, we’d be very happy to hear from you. same story; combined, they help If just imagining John Muir wasn’t enough, we also us to protect, enhance and value have the real thing, or at least Al Smith who did his our wild places. Sometimes very best Muir impression, dressing and equipping referred to as our three ‘pillars’, himself as the man himself, on a recent three-day they are not necessarily journey of discovery in the Cairngorms. dependent on each other, but are And so to the future, and exciting developments in equally valuable in terms of Wales. In fact, the wildest most rugged part of Wales: advancing our cause. the Rhinogydd in Snowdonia. Will Williams, a son of I’m delighted to report that Wales and one of our trustees, sets the scene for our we’ve seen a good and positive response to the  rst property purchase there – and our  rst outside of members’ survey that was sent as part of our Scotland. As a UK organisation, it is vital that we try to Members’ News mailing in the summer. ank you to engage with the full breadth of wild land areas, their everyone who took the time to let us know what they culture, wildlife, people and language. We are excited think about the Trust and what we do. I’m pleased to about the opportunity to take on the guardianship of say that we appear to be doing a good job and we’ve what is a well-cared for wild gem. Please see the been given some clear steers for the future. enclosed appeal lea et, or  nd out more online. We will report back on the  ndings in more detail We have a short amount of time to raise a substan- in the New Year, but a good proportion of you, I know, tial sum to not only purchase Carreg y Saeth Isaf – as will be interested to read about our current battle to the property is known – but also ensure that we can protect wild land at Stronelairg in the Highlands. In look after it long into the future. I hope we can report these pages, Alan McCombes outlines why we see this positive news on this early in the New Year. proposed wind farm site as such an important place As always, thank you for reading. And thank you for to defend, not only for its own sake but for that of wild your continued support and interest in our work. land in Scotland generally. is is very much a ‘live’ Under Welsh skies: issue, so please keep abreast of developments by Carreg y Saeth Isaf in signing up for our monthly e-newsletter, or follow us Stuart Brooks the Rhinogydd on twitter or via our website. Chief executive, John Muir Trust PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID LINTERN DAVID PHOTOGRAPH: 06 NEWS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

Land-owning charities show their worth The fi ve main land-owning conservation charities in Scotland make a signifi cant contribution to the economy, recent research reveals. The Centre for Mountain Studies at the University of Highlands and Islands has produced a report, for the Scottish Land Reform Review Group, revealing the extent to which the John Muir Trust, National Trust for Scotland, RSPB Scotland, Scottish Wildlife Trust and Woodland Trust Scotland create jobs, attract tourists and enhance Scotland’s landscapes through land ownership. Among the key fi ndings, the report highlighted how in addition to protecting the natural heritage of specifi c sites, direct expenditure by conservation charities on land management stands at more than £37m per annum (rising to £64m when wider organisational expenditure is included). Trust seeks judicial review on Stronelairg MCCOMBES ALAN PHOTOGRAPH: The study also found that almost four million people a year visit land owned by The John Muir Trust has lodged a The Monadhliath Mountains conservation charities (bringing petition to the Court of Session for a (pictured above) are considered revenues of up to £105m into remote judicial review of the decision of the one of Scotland’s key areas of communities); direct employment Highland Council South Planning remaining wild land related to sites accounts for 736 full time Application Committee to equivalent positions; and that some conditionally raise no objection to a fundamentally in confl ict with the 5,000 volunteers a year carry out almost proposed 83-turbine wind farm at existing local and national planning 300,000 hours of work at such sites. This Stronelairg in the heart of the policy – which states explicitly that work, said the report, is not only worth Monadhliath Mountains. authorities should safeguard the up to £3 million a year, but also The decision went against the character of wild land areas. Since contributes signifi cantly to volunteers’ national interest objection from the decision was taken, the Scottish health and well-being. Scottish Natural Heritage, which Government has confi rmed the “This report confi rms that land which stated that the development – spread existing protection of wild land and is owned and managed in the interests of over an area of 35 square kilometres, proposed a further strengthening of conservation conveys wider social and one and a half times the size of wild land protection. economic benefi ts to local communities Inverness – would destroy the “In the light of existing and emerging and to the nation as a whole,” character of one of Scotland’s key planning policy frameworks, the commented Mike Daniel’s, the Trust’s areas of wild land. decision to not object to the Stronelairg head of land and science. Planning authorities are legally application was, in our opinion, both obliged to determine applications in unreasonable and unlawful.” accordance with local and national Helen McDade, the Trust’s head of planning policy when considering policy, said: “The Monadhliath area is development applications. Legal recognised by Scottish Natural advice to the Trust indicates that the Heritage as one of the key areas of core Stronelairg decision was based on a wild land in Scotland. Stronelairg, in fundamental misinterpretation by the the heart of this mountain range, is the council planning offi cials of the largest wind application ever National Planning Framework, considered by Highland Council. Scottish Planning Policy and the “The same local authority recently Highland-wide Local Development – and rightly – raised objections to Plan – and was therefore unlawful. smaller developments at Glenmorie John Hutchison, chair of the John and Dalnessie on wild land grounds. Muir Trust and Highland Council The council has not explained this resident, said: “This legal action is fundamental inconsistency. However, not directed against the councillors, it would be perverse if the very much who have to deal with multiple issues larger Stronelairg proposal was not and are forced to rely on expert advice subject to the same rigorous public WRIGHT SUSAN PHOTOGRAPH: from offi cials. scrutiny as these two applications.” Land owned by conservation bodies in “We believe the quality of the See page 16 for more on the proposed Scotland benefi ts from much more than advice itself was fl awed and wind development at Stronelairg. just environmental protection NEWS 07

Policy team gears up £64,000 for busy autumn and counting The Trust’s policy team is about to At the time of going to press, represent wild land at two Public Local well over 800 members and Inquiries (PLI) for wind farm supporters had donated developments being proposed in more than £64,000 (including Sutherland: Glenmorie and Dalnessie. Gift Aid) to the Trust’s The Glenmorie PLI pre-examination Protect Wild Land appeal – meeting took place in late July. The nearly £25,000 above our proposal is for a 34-turbine development initial target. This has been a with the site extending into an area fantastic response to the identifi ed in recent mapping by Scottish Trust’s commitment to defend Natural Heritage as a ‘core area of wild wild land within the current land’. planning system, as well as The Inquiry was triggered after the advocate for better protection Highland Council voted to raise an over the long term. offi cial objection against the proposal on Thanks to all members and the grounds that it would disrupt wildlife supporters who have and disfi gure scenic landscapes. The demonstrated their passion Trust has also fl agged the danger that for wild land both by writing this development could have a damaging in response to the government effect on the area’s peatland – an consultation and through important carbon store and habitat. donations. Further donations Meanwhile, the pre-examination to the Protect Wild Land meeting that marks the start of the appeal can still be made at Dalnessie PLI is due to take place in late www.jmt.org/protect.asp September. In this case, it follows the decision by the Highland Council’s North Planning Committee in February to raise Top photographer Colin Prior lent his offi cial objections against a proposal for support to the Protect 27 turbines near Lairg. Dalnessie is an Wild Land appeal important habitat for breeding

PHOTOGRAPH: COLIN PRIOR COLIN PHOTOGRAPH: populations of black-throated diver.

Public consultation backs wild land protection The Scottish Government has received more than 100 submissions backing its proposal to strengthen wild land protection from large scale wind farms, with fewer than 50 responses opposed to the plan. Those supporting wild land protection include individuals, charities, environmentalists, outdoors organisations, councils, community groups, and professional bodies. Many submissions called for the Scottish Government to go further by declaring an outright ban on large scale wind farm development on wild land, in line with their policy proposal for PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW COWAN/SCOTTISH PARLIAMENTARY CORPORATE BODY CORPORATE PARLIAMENTARY COWAN/SCOTTISH ANDREW PHOTOGRAPH: National Scenic Areas and National Parks. The Trust will maintain pressure on the The Scottish Parliament’s Local Almost all responses opposing Scottish Government to strengthen wild Government and Regeneration strengthened protection were submitted land protection Committee is expected to take evidence by businesses with a direct fi nancial on NPF3 during September and October interest in developing wild land. More The Scottish Government will now 2013, before publication of the fi nal than two thirds of all hostile responses consider these responses to inform the document around June 2014. came from outside Scotland, with more fi nal Scottish Planning Policy and the There is still much to play for and we than a third submitted by multi-national proposed National Planning Framework have to maintain the pressure – in corporations based in the US, Germany, 3 (NPF3). The former is expected to be particular, lobbying for the Scottish France and other European countries. published towards the end of this year, Government to adopt the principle of using No environmental organisations while the latter will be laid before the a map to identify our core wild land areas. declared their opposition to the proposal Scottish Parliament for scrutiny, giving it You can read more about our initial for greater wild land protection. a period of 60 days to respond. analysis of responses on page 19. 08 NEWS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

Fantastic response to Muir missions recent membership survey proving popular PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE DANIELS MIKE PHOTOGRAPH:

The new e-book is now also available in a printed hard copy

In April, a unique and already hugely PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD ROWE RICHARD PHOTOGRAPH: popular set of 20 ‘missions’ was created to inspire people to follow in the footsteps of The Trust’s recent membership survey, sent with the summer The recent survey John Muir. The resulting Mission: Explore issue of Members’ News, generated a great response, with more reiterated John Muir, is a free-to-download ebook than 1,000 members (roughly 10% of our overall membership) our members’ that captures a variety of Muir’s passion for wild taking the time to respond – with additional responses continuing land and places adventures and messages and turns them to arrive daily. into quirky, easy-to-complete activities. Between now and the end of this year, we will study all An initiative between the Trust and comments and refl ect on how they can help inform the best use of the Trust’s people, Mission: Explore – a series of books time and fi nancial resources in the years ahead. created by the Geography Collective – In the meantime, we can tell you that Trust members are an extremely active group the two have since teamed with Urdd of people who participate in a huge variety of activities, from wild swimming and Gobaith Cymru and Fèisean nan Gàidheal camping to orienteering, running, skiing, geology and bird watching. And, of course, to create online Welsh and Gaelic they all have a shared passion for wild land and the need to protect it. versions. A full report on the survey response will be published in the January 2014 issue of In response to demand, a printed hard Members’ News. In the meantime, the Trust would like to thank everyone who has copy is now also available for just £1. For taken the time to provide feedback, comments and suggestions. It is greatly appreciated. details, see www.tinyurl.com/jmtmexp

Eddrachillis Bay. I saw with my own eyes Endorsement for deer how current practices in deer management management stance are failing the biodiversity of the area.” The MSP is now calling for greater Following a visit to the Ardvar Woodlands transparency, accountability and regulation with staff from the John Muir Trust and of the deer management practices of Scottish Wildlife Trust, Rob Gibson, MSP Scotland’s sporting estates. His paper for Caithness and Sutherland, has called argues that current voluntary arrangements for a radical rethink of deer management should now be brought under statutory policy in Scotland. control. Spread over three estates, including At the time of going to press, the Rural Quinag, which is owned and managed by Affairs, Climate Change and the John Muir Trust, Ardvar is part of the Environmental Committee had just met

most northerly oak woodland in the WRIGHT SUSAN PHOTOGRAPH: and decided to put deer management in British Isles. It has been a site of Special Scotland on the committee’s work Scientifi c Interest for more than four programme. This means that the issue A deer-browsed birch at Ardvar Woodlands decades and has been designated a will be discussed further and debated European Special Area of Conservation with input from key players such as for the past eight years. Now the local MSP, who is also the Trust. However, due to years of overgrazing convenor of the Scottish Parliament’s This puts the Trust’s call for statutory by deer, it is now in ‘unfavourable, infl uential Rural Affairs, Climate Change deer management back on the political declining’ condition. Concerned that the and Environmental Committee, has agenda, which is good news for all the woodland might disappear altogether, effectively endorsed the Trust’s stance. native woodlands across Scotland that the Trust last year proposed to reduce In a paper circulated to the committee, are dying because of over-grazing, deer numbers on Quinag – a move that he said: “Supporters of traditional deer exacerbating the decline in biodiversity saw neighbouring sporting estates, backed stalking appear to be at loggerheads with across the country. by traditional sporting interests across the growing concerns among environmental For questions on the Trust’s approach Highlands, denounce the Trust within the workers for the poor state of the Special to sustainable deer management, contact local community and through the Area of Conservation at Ardvar and Loch Mike Daniels, head of land and science, national media. a’Mhuillinn on the southern shores of [email protected]. NEWS 09

Trust visits properties to outline path management approach As a follow-up to the development of the Trust’s path management proposal, key stakeholders were invited to site visits in Skye and at Quinag over the summer to look at sections of path that demonstrate varying stages of trail development and erosion. The aim was to inform interest groups and statutory bodies of the Trust’s approach to path management, including how work has been prioritised, special considerations for designated sites, and how the project will be funded. In Skye, site visits included examining the badly-eroded section of the Blabheinn path, plus the early stages of erosion on the Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach path, while at Quinag it was the now deteriorating main trail up to Sail Gharbh that was the focus of attention. The path project aims to protect the environment and wild land quality from the impact of recreational access, while trying to retain their rugged nature. It is a delicate balancing act and further consultation will be carried out with interested user groups and local communities later in the year to discuss specifi c works. Separately, the Trust was delighted to host students from Fife’s Elmwood PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS GOODMAN CHRIS PHOTOGRAPH: College in May for a week’s work experience repairing sections of the main path to Sandwood Bay. In what is a continuation of a relationship fi rst developed in 2012, students studying for their NC in Countryside Management joined path Students from Fife’s Elmwood College work on repairing a offi cer Chris Goodman to tackle a few short sections of path where braiding had section of the Sandwood path started to develop.

Update on UK-wide The Trust’s concerns about the impact advocacy work of infrastructure on wild land were put on public record during discussions about AGM & Members’ The Trust’s advocacy work outside of Scotland amendments to the Bill at Committee continues to gather steam, with considerable stage in July. We are now securing a good weight being put behind key campaigns in level of cross-party support for key Gathering 2014 England and Wales for new protected areas, amendments to prevent existing The 2014 John Muir Trust AGM & or to prevent inappropriate development. environmental safeguards being eroded Members’ Gathering will be held Recent efforts have included publicly by the Bill. at Dunbar Parish Church & Hall supporting the Campaign for National Earlier in the year, the Trust received on 2 and 3 May. Full details and a Parks and Friends of the Lake District’s positive coverage thanks to a debate led booking form will be included in campaign for extensions to the Lake by Lord Greaves on the value of the the January Members’ News. If District and Yorkshire Dales National Parks, outdoors, and we hope to secure two wishing to attend, members are as well as collaborating on objections to further Lords debates in the autumn, advised to book accommodation potash mining on the Yorkshire Moors. which will be opportunities to highlight in the area as soon as possible. Elsewhere, the Trust has assisted an the value and benefi ts of wild land for alliance of campaign organisations people and nature. objecting to fi ve wind farms on areas of Alongside parliamentary work, the high wild land quality in mid-Wales, Trust has also participated in Ofgem, including a donation of £2,000 to assist in National Grid and Transmission Operator the presentation of landscape evidence. consultation groups. This involvement has Meanwhile, the Trust continues its more seen the Trust respond to Ofgem John Muir Award general lobbying to infl uence UK-wide consultations on: impact assessments (to showcased on lm policy. While greater protection for wild land ensure environmental considerations are is important, so too is ensuring that wild properly refl ected); integrated The Trust recently unveiled a new John land is valued at public policy level. This is transmission (we have pushed for a total Muir Award information fi lm to inspire particularly crucial at the moment given costs approach to highlight the huge individuals or potential providers who that all governments are putting ‘growth’ costs of energy schemes on remote wild might be interested in the Award. fi rst, with anything that stands in the way, land); and transmission price control (we Produced by John Muir Award manager, including hard-fought-for environmental have pushed for National Scenic Areas to Rob Bushby, with fi lm-makers, Polished protections, at risk. be included in the allowance for Project, the 10-minute fi lm includes One key current focus at Westminster undergrounding transmission lines in sections on John Muir and the Trust is to look at any opportunities presented protected areas). itself. The Trust is now in the process of by the passage of the Energy Bill through Finally, the Trust also continues to creating several separate short items the House of Lords. Many parliamentarians participate on a Natural England Large around the main fi lm, including a John are sympathetic to our concerns, with the Landscape Conservation group which Muir section, a ‘four challenges’ section parliamentary reception held last year offers great scope for promoting the and a two-minute trailer. The full fi lm having helped raise our profi le benefi ts of wild land and sharing the can be viewed at signifi cantly. Trust’s experience. www.jmt.org/jmaward-fi lm.asp 10 ESSAY JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013 Joe CornIsh/2020vIsIon Joe phoTograph: phoTograph: 11

e wild and the wind

In a reprint of an essay rst published in the Sunday Herald on 21 April to mark John Muir’s 175th birthday, Susan Wright explores how the celebration of Muir in his Scottish homeland squares with the treatment of our own wild spaces

JOHN MUIR’S PRESENCE in the California Hall of Fame might bemuse many people on this side of the Atlantic. Steve Jobs, Barbra Streisand, Clint Eastwood and Walt Disney may be household names here, but the Dunbar-born naturalist – celebrated in America as the founding father of the country’s 400 national parks – remains an obscure gure in his native Scotland. And while his writings are familiar to conservationists and mountaineers, his name would leave most people scratching their heads in a pub quiz. at may be about to change. Today is the rst John Muir Day in Scotland, marking the 175th anniversary of his birth. Mean- while, the Scottish Government has made Muir a focal point for the Year of Natural Scotland (this year) and Homecoming (in 2014), partly in the hope of attracting visitors from the United States. Yet our relationship with the man who pioneered the modern conservation movement is paradoxical. We want to reect the glory of this champion of wilderness, but we exploit the land of his birth for commercial gain. We’ve been doing it for centuries through deforestation, hunting, large-scale sheep farming and sport. John McGrath exposed this most eloquently in his 1970s play, e Cheviot, e Stag And e Black, Black Oil. If he were alive today, McGrath may well have expanded his title to add the latest Highland gold rush. e spread of colossal wind farms across our wildest landscapes promises to generate billions of pounds in prots for energy corporations and private landowners. In return, we are supposed to be creating lovely, clean, low-carbon energy, plenty of jobs and a better world. So why does it feel wrong? Wind power is meant to help us tackle climate change by reducing the consumption of fossil fuels. But despite all the turbines built so far, carbon emissions continue to rise. We now burn more coal than gas, we are opening up 14 new oilelds, our economy is still based on endless consumerism, and most of our To have and to hold: in houses are draughty heat-leakers. Meanwhile, we attempt to save areas such as Assynt the planet by eroding the remaining places where nature might (pictured), Scotland still has expanses of ourish, and where people can nd peace, beauty, clean air and wild land unblighted adventure. by industrial-scale If the proposed wind farm at Stronelairg goes ahead, 67 developments turbines, each 135 metres tall, will tower over the landscape from a high plateau in the heart of the Monadhliath mountains, near

Ò continued 12 ESSAY PHOTOGRAPH: MARK HAMBLIN/2020VISION PHOTOGRAPH:

Loch Ness. Much of the development will be built on of Scotland’s natural heritage had been destroyed. Letting the land peatland, an internationally important habitat that Most of her native tree cover had gone – felled over breathe: instead of stores huge amounts of carbon, supports wildlife and the centuries for houses, agriculture, and ships, and industrialising wild helps to  lter clean water. Around one million tonnes to fuel the Industrial Revolution. As a result, nutrient- land we could help of rock will be excavated to build the site’s concrete rich soils were blown away by the wind that now had native woodland free rein over the bare hillsides. Plants and insects expand and thrive foundations and 40 miles of access roads. e entire (above); a patchwork development will create a footprint the size of disappeared. of grazed and burnt Inverness, making Stronelairg not so much a wind Bear, beaver, wolf, lynx, boar, aurochs, sea eagle, moorland managed for farm as a wind city (for more, see page 16). It is just red kite and other species were lost to merciless sporting interests one of many wind cities being proposed for Scotland. hunting and shrinking habitats, reaching a climax (right) when the Victorians waged a programme of extermi- BOYHOOD RAMBLINGS nation across the Highlands to clear the land of any As a boy, John Muir loved roaming the Lammermuir living thing that might compete for their prized game Hills, and the woodlands and coastline near his East birds and other sporting targets. Lothian home. He was just 10 when his family Today, most of our bare hills and moors have been

emigrated to the US in 1849, but he would later recall over-grazed by sheep and deer, and over-managed to CAIRNS/2020VISION PETER PHOTOGRAPH: his love of “everything that was wild” in Scotland. favour the growth of heather for game birds to the What would he have made of the current assault on detriment of the  ora and fauna that would otherwise wild places and open spaces in the land of his birth? live there. Blocks of dense commercial forestry Muir dedicated his adult life to protecting vast pockmark the land, lacking the rich biodiversity that swathes of the American wilderness. ese weren’t thrives in native woodlands. Most us are so discon- places devoid of human presence. Native Americans nected from nature, we can’t read the landscape had inhabited and explored every inch of California, around us. but they had a profound respect for the land that I grew up loving what little of Scotland’s lochs and provided the food, water and beauty that sustained winding rivers, dramatic mountain peaks and them. is connection to the natural world was alien woodland I had managed to explore outside of to many of the Europeans who were exploiting Edinburgh, where I lived. I didn’t realise that the bare California’s natural riches with vigour in the late 19th hills and angular forestry lines, which I didn’t love so century. much, were representative of a landscape that has Following his  rst visit to Yosemite, Muir observed been devastated ecologically. that “in a few feverish years”, the “pick-and-shovel Understanding Scotland’s landscape a little better storms” of the Californian gold rush had severely now, I can see why my  rst trip to California stirred damaged great swathes of the state, in sharp contrast deep emotions. In California, and many other areas to the centuries of minimal impact by Native of the US, you can hike for days far from towns, Americans who, he wrote, “walk softly and hurt the wander through groves of giant redwood trees, sit by landscape hardly more than the birds and squirrels”. glacial rivers and saunter along upland trails By the time Muir wrote these words in 1869, much alongside numerous types of birds, wild owers and 13

‘ We need to break the habit of exploiting our land to the nth degree. Let’s think di erently. Let’s heal the future’

animals (including the occasional bear) that have wreaked on Earth if we hold up past destruction as a thrived for millennia. guiding principle. e US is by no means an undamaged land, but As the American environmentalist Paul Hawken massive areas are protected in ways we Scots can only said recently: “We have an economy that tells us that dream of. anks largely to Muir, the Yosemite Valley it is cheaper to destroy Earth in real time than to became a national park in 1890, and today nearly half renew, restore, and sustain it – we are stealing the of California’s land – an area the size of Scotland and future, selling it in the present and calling it gross England combined – is protected in national parks, domestic product. We can just as easily have an nature reserves, wildlife refuges and so on. economy that is based on healing the future instead Speaking in support of building the Stronelairg of stealing it.” wind city, one Highland councillor said: “ is is the We need to break the habit of exploiting our land to kind of landscape that breaks my heart. ere isn’t a the nth degree. Let’s think di erently. Let’s heal the tree – they are long gone. e whole area is huge future. Wind power can contribute to our energy sporting estates and the land has been hammered. It’s needs, and is particularly suited to small-scale not in its natural state.” community and agricultural power generation. But it e depletion of our precious natural resources is has downsides – most notably, the sheer number indeed heart-breaking, but to conclude that the land of hectares that need to be torn up to deliver is degraded and therefore not worth protecting is dangerous. ere could be no end to the damage Ò continued 14 ESSAY JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

from Glasgow found solace from poverty and urban misery in the hills and woods outside the industrial city. Many of them went on to found the country’s  rst walking and mountaineering clubs. Nowadays, every weekend thousands of us  ee the con nement of o ces and houses for the great outdoors. Distant horizons and mighty mountains remind us of our insigni cance. e sighting of a red squirrel or sea eagle excites us. Nature recharges us; it makes us better people. I once heard a farmer say: “You can’t eat a view.” But, as Muir pointed out: “We all need beauty as well as bread.” Views matter. If they didn’t, then landscape photographers wouldn’t make a living; Yosemite PHOTOGRAPH: MARK HAMBLIN/2020VISION PHOTOGRAPH: National Park wouldn’t build a trail to the edge of the valley so that visitors in wheelchairs can see the grid-connected turbines. In Scotland, 176 wind farms spectacular miles-long vista; and songs wouldn’t be (2,136 turbines in total) are now either operational or written about the bonny banks of Loch Lomond. If under construction, with a further 229 developments landscape was unimportant, people wouldn’t travel (2,648 turbines) in the pipeline. No end point has halfway across the world to see Scotland. been agreed. We don’t know how many turbines will e John Muir Trust is calling for a wild land be considered enough or how much of our natural designation, which would protect areas identi ed for landscape will be a ected. their ecological and special landscape values. I think Some argue that Scotland is too small to have the world’s greatest naturalist would have approved. savannahs of wildness untouched by development Trust chairman John Hutchison said recently: “If John when climate change is such a serious threat. But it’s Muir could see what is being done to his native land precisely because Scotland is so small that we need to today in the name of progress, he would be grief- cherish our natural resources and value our wild stricken. He would agree we need to  ght climate places. Scotland sits 117th in terms of land mass size change, reduce our carbon emissions and move away Where there’s life: the compared to the rest of the world, but our coastline is from fossil fuels – but not by trashing nature.” carnivorous sundew, a the 12th longest. is suggests that Scotland’s e truth is, we can build a great many things – classic peatland plant (above); the return of contribution to the  ght against climate change might roads and cities and technological wonders – but we the sea eagle to be better focused on unleashing the immense power cannot build wilderness. And this one small country, Scotland continues to of marine energy rather than sacri cing large chunks on this one habitable planet, is all we’ve got. excite (below) of precious,  nite wild land to concrete and steel. Wild land – with its amazing ability to store carbon, provide water and clean the air – is our ally in coping with climate change. As the weather becomes more extreme, plants and animals will need space to adapt. Nature cannot  ourish under a spread of metal and concrete.

CREATIVE THINKING We need more imaginative solutions to provide hope for a future where the natural world, including that bit in our own backyards, can thrive. Before turning to diggers, to metal and concrete, we should be doing everything possible to reduce energy consumption. We could bring building insulation up to Scandinavian standards, o er free public transport to cut car use, reduce long-distance transportation of goods and even help convert rural, oil-heated houses (which, though often situated close to wind farms, don’t bene t from them). “When we try to pick out anything by itself, we  nd it hitched to everything else in the universe,” Muir famously wrote. By observing the natural world, he recognised that an intricate web of life sustains us all. at is what we are playing with when we destroy wild land. MARK HAMBLIN/2020VISION PHOTOGRAPH: We need to observe with keener eyes what is happening to our country, our home. Muir saw wildness as a necessity, not a luxury, and urged everyone to “keep close to Nature’s heart – and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or About the author spend a week in the woods”. Susan Wright is the Trust’s head of communications. During the Depression in the 1930s, young people She can be contacted at [email protected] TESTIMONIAL 15

HF Holidays One of the Trust’s Silver corporate members, HF Holidays, has spent the past 100 years helping people to experience the great outdoors

Celebrating its centenary this year, HF teams, as well as repairing footpaths and Holidays o ers a range of guided holidays protecting the countryside where its and short breaks that see guests join groups walk. groups led by expert leaders on a choice e company’s founder, omas Arthur of walks from short rambles to longer, Leonard, was a true pioneer of the more strenuous treks, both in the UK and outdoor movement. Like John Muir worldwide. himself, he loved the outdoors and was Founded in 1913, HF Holidays is a passionate about its protection. His initial co-operative society that now arranges aim was to ensure that more people could holidays for more than 50,000 people discover “the joy and freedom of the open each year – making it the UK’s largest fells” – a mission that continues to hold walking and leisure activity holidays true today.

company. By the very nature of the UK holidays are based at a selection of HF HOLIDAYS PHOTOGRAPH: holidays on o er, and the company’s use 19 country houses in prime walking of trails in areas of wild land, it relies on country that are either owned by HF again situated within the Snowdonia the e orts of organisations such as the Holidays or used on long-term leases. National Park, is also proving extremely John Muir Trust that put so much into One of the  rst country houses in the HF popular. maintaining trails and raising the Holidays portfolio was Bryn Corach in rough its holidays and charitable awareness of why wild land is so special. Conwy. Leonard chose this location work, HF Holidays will continue to Itself deeply committed to responsible because of his love for Wales – with the champion the great outdoors and work tourism, HF Holidays’ Pathways Fund – a challenge of climbing nearby Snowdon with the John Muir Trust to ensure that charity established in 1998 – supports continuing to lure guests to the area. e the UK’s wild lands remain special. local air ambulance and mountain rescue company’s latest property, Cra ywn Hall, www.hfholidays.co.uk

e John Muir Trust would like to thank HF Holidays and all our corporate members and supporters, as well as those other companies who provide support such as payroll giving schemes:

GOLD CORPORATE MEMBERS BRONZE CORPORATE MEMBERS We greatly value the Anatom Alpine Exploratory contribution of the growing Berghaus Cotswold Outdoors Ltd Graham Tiso Ltd Dandy Collective number of companies that Highlander (Scotland Ltd) East Dunbartonshire Council support the Trust through Mountain Equipment Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival Wilderness Scotland Hot Aches Productions membership, donations, McKinlay Kidd promotional initiatives and SILVER CORPORATE MEMBERS NGM Accountants in-kind support. If your Ben Nevis Distillery Northshots Four Seasons Hotel, Loch Earn pitchblue business would like to help Glasgow Vein Clinic Scotch Whisky Experience our business of protecting wild HF Holidays Sykes Cottages Kings Manor Hotel, Edinburgh e Fresh Air Learning Company Ltd land and wild places, please MacFarlane Pharmacies e Watermill contact Fiona Mackintosh on Radical Travel Group Walk Wild Scotland 01796 484 970, or  o n a . e Ski and Snowboard School Webducate Walkhighlands [email protected] PHOTOGRAPH: KEITH BRAME PHOTOGRAPH: 16 WILD LAND JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

BETWEEN LOCH NESS and the is atmosphere of wild remoteness Cairngorms lies a vast, mysterious has made the Monadhliaths a prime Taking landscape which has been described as target for energy corporations looking for Scotland’s terra incognita. e vast landscapes in which to build Monadhliath Mountains range across industrial-scale developments. ree more than 700 square miles – an area major wind farms have already been built larger than the Peak District and not or approved in the area, including the a stand much smaller than the Lake District. But  ercely controversial Dumnaglass while these English upland regions are development, which provoked over 1,500 inhabited by tens of thousands of people, objections and was described by moun- outlines criss-crossed by roads, and swarm with taineering writer and broadcaster, Alan McCombes several million visitors a year, the Cameron McNeish, as “sickening in its how the giant wind farm Monadhliaths lie empty and silent, even scale and insensitivity”. proposed at Stronelairg in in the height of summer. Here, there are A further three proposals are still at the only a handful of isolated lodges and farm application stage. One of these, Allt the Monadhliath steadings connected to the outside world Duine, on the edge of the Cairngorms Mountains poses a very via a few rudimentary tracks. National Park, is even more contentious, is is not picture postcard territory. with locally-based photographer and real threat to an e Monadhliaths lack the splendour and author, Chris Townsend, denouncing the outstanding area of wild drama of the nearby Cairngorms, or the proposal as “the equivalent of building a land – and why it is worth Nevis range to the south west. Yet, while Tesco in the Grand Canyon”. the Grey Hills – to give them their English Allt Duine was subject to a Public Local  ghting against translation – may not have such dazzling Inquiry, with the outcome expected at any charisma, these rolling hills and plateaux time. But as things stand, the largest wind have their own understated charm, development of all in these mountains heightened by the sense of solitude that could be given the go-ahead by a Scottish hangs heavy in the air. On a  ne day in Government minister without the late August this year, I tramped the rigorous scrutiny of an open inquiry. So southern Monadhliaths from morning till far, councillors and planning o cials at sunset without encountering another the Highland Council have supported the human being. Stronelairg development, with the proviso

‘  e wild remoteness of the area has made the Monadhliaths a prime target for energy corporations’ PHOTOGRAPHY: ALAN MCCOMBES PHOTOGRAPHY: 17

that the project be scaled down from 83 generate 100 per cent of its electricity site which the developer acknowledges turbines to 67. at would still make it the needs through renewables by 2020. Yet, consists of more than 70 per cent wet, largest wind farm in the mainland according to the Scottish Government’s blanket peatland – Scotland’s miniature Highlands – one that would cover an area ird National Planning Framework version of the rainforest – which locks in larger than Inverness or East Kilbride. (April 2013), Scotland will have to expand up to 20 times as much carbon per acre as According to SSE, the developer, the its renewables capacity two and a half the average British woodland. More than wind farm will power 250,000 homes with times over to reach the target. one third of that is unmodied with the clean, green electricity, helping Scotland rest of it capable of being fully restored. meet its climate change targets and COORDINATED ACTION e building of a giant development on contribute to the ght against global Few people today would dispute the need to this site, with the associated excavation warming. On the face of it, that sounds shift society away from its reliance on fossil and destruction of the soil, ies in the face impressive. But the arithmetic does not fuels. Climate change poses a very real of advice from the Scottish Government’s stack up. threat to the entire eco-system. At national own expert advisers who have stated that e maximum installed capacity of and international level, we need urgent, there is no justication for building wind Stronelairg, even based on the higher co-ordinated action to reduce greenhouse farms on healthy peatland. gure of 83 turbines, is 300 MW. at is gas emissions. But there is growing evidence e Monadhliaths support one of around ve per cent, or one twentieth, of that the proliferation of industrial-scale Europe’s most extensive tracts of upland Scotland’s existing installed renewables wind farms on wild land has been, at best, a blanket bog. A serious, joined-up strategy capacity (as of December 2012). A simple tokenistic diversion of resources and to curb Scotland’s carbon emissions calculation suggests that if Stronelairg investment that could have been more would include the protection and, where really was capable of supplying all the eciently deployed in the battle against necessary, restoration of this vast carbon electricity to a quarter of a million climate change. At worst, developments storehouse. And it would exclude from households, then the rest of Scotland’s such as that proposed at Stronelairg may this type of terrain such destructive renewables industry would already be even be counter-productive. developments as that proposed for powering the equivalent of around ve According to SSE’s own Environmental Stronelairg. million homes – more than double Statement, the Stronelairg project will Scotland’s entire housing stock. involve quarrying 730,000 cubic metres of PROFIT AND LOSS If SSE’s gure is accurate, then, even stone from borrow pits around the site to But this is not about climate change. And allowing for commercial and industrial build access tracks, turbine foundations neither are the corporations who are electricity consumption, Scotland would and bases. driving wind energy in the wild lands of already have smashed its target to All of this disruption will take place on a the Scottish Highlands ethical crusaders ghting to save the planet. Over 90 per cent of the power generated by SSE is non-renewable, mainly from coal and gas. Its mission is to make money for its shareholders. And it does that very well indeed. Today, the company has 10 million customers, mainly in the south of England, and a market value of £13 billion – the equivalent of Morrison’s and Sainsbury combined, but with just seven per cent of the workforce of the two supermarket chains. e Stronelairg development alone is estimated to be worth around £1 billion to SSE, while the landowner – Charles Connell of the Belfast and Clydeside ship-building dynasty – stands to make something in the region of £60 million as his cut for leasing the land. With such large sums of money at stake, it would be both naïve and irresponsible not to put the claims of the developer under the microscope. Earlier this year, SSE was ned a record £10.5 million by UK energy watchdog Ofgem for deceiving its own would-be customers. According to Ofgem, the company provided “mislead- ing and unsubstantiated statements” to potential customers. So why should anyone take at face value anything said by SSE – especially when such a lucrative Views for days: looking deal is within its grasp? north across the In support of its application, SSE states Stronelairg site Ò continued 18 WILD LAND JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

THE RISE OF WIND CITIES Stronelairg is just one of many industrial-scale wind farms that will dramatically alter Scotland’s natural landscapes. Here are a few of the more controversial developments in the pipeline, which the Trust has been involved in:

Allt Duine This proposed development from RWE for 31 turbines, 125 metres high, located a hairs-breadth from the Cairngorms National Park stirred a lot of public opinion. It was the subject of a Public Local Inquiry last year, to which the Trust gave evidence. Its outcome is expected later this year. that Stronelairg will create employment in Wide, open space: the Monadhliaths have been the Highlands during the construction described by SNH as “one of Scotland’s key areas phase equivalent to 379 job years, with a of wild land” Glenmorie further 117 long-term local jobs to follow Located on the Kildermorie & after the wind farm is up and running. But Glencalvie Estates in Ardgay, the company neither constructs nor Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) and Sutherland this 34-turbine proposal maintains its wind farms, and therefore supported by the Scottish Government, (125 metres high) is awaiting a has no control over how many workers are which includes the Monadhliaths. Public Local Inquiry. US-based employed or where they are recruited. Its SSE justies targeting Stronelairg on the energy multi-national, AES, which gures are based largely on extravagant grounds that “due to the presence of operates in coal, gas and oil guesswork. existing infrastructure, the proposed markets, as well as renewables, is We can, however, measure the accuracy development area is not considered to be behind the development. of this guesswork against recent experi- wild land”. e infrastructure in question ence. Last year, SSE opened the Grin is the Glendoe Hydro scheme, construct- Sallachy wind farm in Perthshire, which is around ed by SSE in 2008 just west of the Stronelairg Another Sutherland-based wind the same size as Stronelairg. e building site. Inconveniently for SSE, when this farm this time proposed by Germany of the infrastructure of the site was carried project was completed, the John Muir Trust based WKN AG for location on the out by Northern Ireland-based Lagan hailed the development as “a great Sallachy and Duchally estates close Construction. During that construction, achievement” and congratulated the to the Assynt-Coigach National almost the entire workforce was brought company “on the way that they have kept Scenic Area. An original proposal for into the area from outside. is may have the landscape and environmental impacts 80 turbines was reduced to 30 then 22, each 125 metres high.

Glencassley SSE originally proposed 47 turbines ‘P eatland locks in up to 20 times as much carbon per acre to be erected 12km north-west of as the average British woodland’ Lairg between the River Cassley and Loch Shin in Sutherland. A revision to 23 won approval from Highland Council to eat further into Scotland’s wild land resource. The Scottish given a temporary boost to a few local to an acceptable level”. It is ironic that the Government may still reject it. hotels, but it has created few, if any, local company should now reject that compliment. construction jobs. Meanwhile, the Ultimately, there is no way that a wind Dalnessie installation of the turbines, and their development of this scale can be built in The Dalnessie wind farm Public Local maintenance for the next ve years at this location without fundamentally Inquiry is taking place this year least, was contracted out to the German altering the character of the landscape. If following objections from Highland manufacturer, Siemens, which has since Stronelairg goes ahead, the great central Council (see p7). It’s another proposal stated that Grin will require a workforce plateau of the Monadhliaths would be from SSE to build in Sutherland – this of just 14 employees in technical and industrialised and the heart ripped out of time 27 turbines up to 135 metres tall, supervisory roles. at’s just one-eighth of what SNH describes as “one of Scotland’s 13km north-east of Lairg. the gure claimed by SSE for Stronelairg. key areas of wild land”. Questionable facts such as these are No large-scale development in such an Muaitheabhal one reason why there is now an overpow- important landscape should be allowed to Nick Oppenheim, owner of the ering case for a transparent Public Local proceed without, at the very least, a Eishken estate on the Isle of Lewis, Inquiry that will cut through the smoke full-scale Public Local Inquiry. It is the finally got permission to build 33 and spin. It is especially important that only way to cut through the spin and turbines each 145 metres high next the Stronelairg development is examined clarify the facts. to a National Scenic Area. There has in the light of the Scottish Government’s been an application for a second recent planning consultation documents extension to the scheme, which About the author promising special protection for wild land threatens golden and white-tailed Alan McCombes is the Trust’s eagle populations. against large-scale development, and the communications editor. He can be publication of the Core Wild Land Map by contacted at [email protected] WILD LAND 19 Who wants to protect Scotland’s wild land? Responses to a recent Scottish Government consultation show that a broad range of people and organisations, forming a 2 to 1 majority,wants want better protectionto protect for Scotland’s wild land

LOCAL AUTHORITIES, community AES Wind – based in Virginia, USA, di erent people and groups have shown councils, charities, environmental groups, generatedScotland’s $17bn revenue in 2011 mainly wildthat they care land? about protecting it. WHOlandowners, professional bodies and small from production of coal, gas oil, diesel and “ e negative responses from energy businesses have all told the Scottish coke. It has an application to develop corporations and property developers Government that they want better Glenmorie on a core wild land area in con rm that industrialisation of our wild protection for Scotland’s wild land (see Sutherland. land is driven not by concern over newsResponses story on pageto a 7).recent Scottish Government consultation show that a broadclimate range change, of peoplebut by pro t. Global andResponses organisations, to the recent forming Scottish a 2 to 1 majority,Savills – a London-based want better property protection for Scotland’scorporations wild see Scotland’s land. natural Government consultation on Scottish multi-national with 500 o ces worldwide, heritage as a resource to be plundered, PlanningAlan McCombes Policy showed and a ratio Susan of 2 to 1 Wright which report sells prime real estate, including while ordinary people, communities and support for safeguarding wild land from landed estates, in Scotland. environmentalists see it as a precious large wind farms. asset to be protected, nourished and LOCAL AUTHORITIES, community Peelcoke. Energy It has an – aapplication subsidiary to of develop Manchester- carerestored.” about protecting it,” said John Submissionscouncils, charities, supporting environmental strengthened groups, Glenmoriebased property on a development core wild land company, area in the Hutchison,John Muir chairman Trust chief of executive,the John Muir Stuart wildlandowners, land protection professional bodies and small Sutherland.Peel Group. e company owns 16 million Trust.Brooks, “ added: e responses “We urgently show that need money is businesses• 60 individuals have all told the Scottish square feet of retail parks worth £6.7bn thee ective prime action motivation to combat behind climate industrial- change Government• 16 local authorities, that they want community better Savillsincluding – a BraeheadLondon-based in Glasgow, property the Metro scalebut converting development large of swathes wild land of andwild thatland protectioncouncils for and Scotland’s local campaign wild land groups (see multi-nationalCentre in Tyneside, with the 500 Tra o ordces Centreworldwide, in companiesto industrial across development the globe is see not Scot- the news• 16 storycharities on page (including 7). 14 whichManchester, sells prime and developments real estate in in Scotland. the land’sanswer. natural heritage as a resource to be Responsesenvironmental to the and recent outdoors Scottish Bahamas, Bermuda and the Costa Del Sol. plundered.“Protecting We our see natural it rather capital as a resource and Governmentorganisations) consultation on Scottish Peel Energy – a subsidiary of Manchester- toinvesting be saved, in peatlandnourished and and woodland restored. Planning• 16 businesses Policy showed (including a ratio landowners, of 2 to 1 RWEbased nPower property – developmentGermany’s biggest company, energy conservation,“It’s interesting recreation that very and few tourism responses will supportplanners, for safeguarding property agents wild and land the from thecorporation Peel Group. involved e company in coal, gas owns and 16 referreddeliver a to far climate higher change.and more We sustainable urgently largeFederation wind farms. of Small ose Businesses) in favour of millionnuclear. square It has 10 feet wind of retail farms parks in Scotland worth needreturn e on ective investment responses for tothe our bene changing t of responses• 3 professional included: bodies £6.7bnand is awaiting including a decisionBraehead on in the Glasgow, the climatelocal communities, but converting the largenation swathes and the of • 1 political party Metrocontroversial Centre Alltin Tyneside, Duine wind the farmTra ord wildhealth land of theto industrial planet.” development is • 60 individuals with connections to the Centreapplication in Manchester, on core wild and land developments on the edge not the answer. Protecting the natural SubmissionsScottish Highlands opposing wild land inof the CairngormsBahamas, Bermuda National and Park. the Costa capital of these areas and investing in Footnote protection• 9 local authorities Del Sol. peatlandAn additional and woodland 45–50 submissions conservation, expressed • 728 community energy companies councils and local Fred Olsen – Norwegian-based recreationgeneral and concern tourism about wind will farms,deliver some a far at a • campaign 16 property groups developers/ planners/ RWEinternational nPower drilling– Germany’s contractor biggest involved energy higherlocal and level, sustainable with others callingreturn for on a blanket • 5landowners environmental charities corporationin oil and gas involved exploration in coal, in Texas, gas and Nigeria, investmentban on all for wind the development. bene t of Welocal have • 32 otherlocal authorities charities nuclear.the North It Seahas and10 wind Asia. farms in Scotland communitiesexcluded these and from the ournation fi gures as because a they make no mention of wild land, nor did they • 1 professionale environmental body umbrella(Landscape group and is awaiting a decision on the whole.”tick the relevant box in the consultation ScottishInstitute) Environment Link EDFcontroversial Energy – Allt based Duine in France wind farm and the questionnaire. • 1 smallumbrella business body umbrellafor the renewables body applicationthird largest on corporation core wild landin Europe. on the EDF edge (Federationindustry (Scottish of Small Renewables) Businesses) ofbuilds the Cairngorms fossil fuel power National plants Park. and nuclear • 31 professionalindividual bodies Fredplants Olsen around – Norwegian-based the world, and has • 1 political party (Scottish Socialist internationalthreatened to drillingsue climate contractor change involved FewerParty) than 50 responses opposed better incampaigners oil and gas forexploration £5 million. in SeveralTexas, Nigeria, EDF •protection. 15 landowners, e vast planners majority and of those property thesta North were jailedSea and for Asia. spying on Greenpeace arguingagents. that Scotland’s wild land should and was forced to pay the environmental not be protected, or indeed that Scotland EDForganisation Energy – £450,000 based in in France damages. and the Fewerdoes not than have 50 wildresponses land, areopposed multi- better third largest corporation in Europe. EDF protection.national energy e vastcorporations majority ofand those property Pinsentbuilds fossil and fuel Masons power LLP plants – London-based and nuclear arguingdevelopers that with Scotland’s a  nancial wild interest land should in plantscorporate around law the rm world, that provides and has legal notexploiting be protected, our natural or indeed landscapes. that Scotland Around threatenedservices to oil, to gas,sue nuclearclimate andchange coal industry. doesa third not of havethem wild are basedland, are in Scotland, multi- a campaigners for £5 million. Several EDF nationalthird in the energy rest ofcorporations the UK, and and a third property in staResponding were jailed to the for submissions,spying on Greenpeace John developersEurope or the with US. a  nancial interest in andHutchison, was forced chair to ofpay the the John environmental Muir Trust, exploitingSome of ourthose natural companies landscapes. most hostile Around organisationsaid: “Wild land £450,000 is a precious, in damages.  nite PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW PARKINSON/2020VISION PHOTOGRAPH: ato third wild ofland them protection are based include: in Scotland, a resource and it’s heartening that so many third in the rest of the UK, and a third in Pinsent and Masons LLP – London-based Europe or the US. corporate law  rm that provides legal Some of those companies most hostile services to oil, gas, nuclear and coal to wild land protection include: industry.

AES Wind – based in Virginia, USA, “Wild land is a precious,  nite resource generated $17bn revenue in 2011 mainly and it’s heartening that so many di erent from production of coal, gas oil, diesel and people and groups have shown that they 20 LAND ACQUISITION JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

Buying a wild gem in Wales is issue of the Journal sees the launch of an appeal to secure an area of outstanding wild land in the Rhinogydd area of Snowdonia – an exciting development that sees the Trust step into land ownership in Wales for the rst time. Will Williams explains

NESTLED IN THE SOUTHERN half A decade or so ago, the Trust began Further info of Snowdonia National Park, to the east of negotiations to purchase two parcels of If you’d like to make a donation to the Harlech, the Rhinogydd is known for what, land in Wales, including one in the Trust’s Carreg y Saeth Isaf appeal (and we hope you will), please see the enclosed even by Welsh standards, is a particularly Rhinogydd. Neither was concluded, with leaflet, or visit www.jmt.org/wales rugged landscape. Very much o the one being on the open market and the beaten track, this remote area’s distinct other withdrawn for family reasons. character is shaped by an ancient Now in a much stronger position, the About the author Dr Will Williams is a Trustee of the underlying geology, with jagged gritstone Trust has been able to rekindle negotia- John Muir Trust. He can be contacted at crags punctuating a dramatic landscape of tions in the Rhinogydd – a truly special [email protected] rock and heather. area of wild land. With the largest expanse It is here, within Wales’ most wild and of mountain heath outside of Scotland, it least-visited mountain landscape, that the is the home of peregrine, merlin, hen Trust aims to take its rst step into owning harrier and raven, while the valleys hold and managing land outside of Scotland. important areas of species-rich oakwoods e property in question is of modest size, with their distinctive moss- and lichen- but of signicant ecological value: a dominated ground ora. For geologists, 105-hectare parcel of land by the entrance this is the celebrated Harlech Dome – the to Cwm Bychan, at the head of the Artro greatest extent of Cambrian rock in the UK Valley. Carreg y Saeth Isaf (meaning the – its ancient and unusual rock formations lower rock of the arrow) is located in a Site thrusting proud of the surrounding land in of Special Scientic Interest, while the jagged crags and clis. wider area is recognised as a Special Area of Conservation and a Biogenetic Reserve. WORKING TOGETHER e current owner, who will continue to It is not so much the size of the land being farm the adjacent lower ground, and his bought as its habitat quality that presents family have long managed the whole farm such an important opportunity. In time, with nature in mind. Consequently, the there will be signicant potential to work owner is keen for it to remain that way closely with others in the Rhinogydd, such under the guardianship of the Trust. It’s a as Snowdonia National Park, Natural wonderful opportunity – one that does not Resources Wales, the Snowdonia Society, come along very often. Woodland Trust, National Trust and North Wales Wildlife Trust, plus private WHY HERE, WHY NOW? landowners and local communities. e decision to acquire wild land in Wales is And it is precisely because the habitat is in line with the long-term thinking of the in good condition that the Trust will be able Trust – and a natural next step following to focus its attention on this wider partner- several signicant moves towards developing ship and community work. Together with a greater UK-wide presence. In September the existing John Muir Award ocer, based 2011, the Board of Trustees approved the in Llangollen in Denbighshire, acquiring further expansion of the John Muir Award in this property will give the Trust a much England, while the following year saw the stronger presence in Wales. appointment of an advocacy ocer based in e Rhinogydd is a land steeped in London. e subsequent, and hugely- history, with early settlers, Welsh warriors successful, reception held at Westminster in that fought with kings, and, more recently, November 2012 marked a clear statement of poets and artists all shaped and inspired the Trust’s intent to deliver its message to by its rugged landscape. Meirion Williams, decision-makers UK-wide. the famous local hymn writer, probably And so to the here and now, and this had these very mountains in mind when particular initiative in Wales – one driven he wrote ‘Aros mae’r mynyddoedd mawr, by a belief that each nation should have an rhio drostynt mae y gwynt’ (meaning, the opportunity to protect its best areas of wild great mountains remain and the wind land, not only for nature but also for the roars across them). way it speaks of cultural heritage and We hope the Trust will soon be able to community identity. make its own positive contribution to this In a sense, we’ve been here before. remarkable landscape. NEWS 21

Life in the landscape (clockwise from top): a rich mosaic of heath, rock and woodland; towards Carreg y Saeth Isaf from Cwm Bychan; native woodland and ferns; blaeberries in amongst the heather; a peregrine; a common blue damselfl y at Carreg y Saeth Isaf

PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID LINTERN EXCEPT TOP: STUART BROOKS 22 John Muir Award JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013 PHOTOGRAPHY: LISA EVANS/FALKIRK COUNCIL EVANS/FALKIRK LISA PHOTOGRAPHY:

Dams on the doorstep

e outdoors provided inspiration their Discovery level John Muir Award. Students Creative talents: students for students at Larbert High School are led through the Award by the Humanities were guided in their writing department, although, this year, English was also by Chris Powici from the who have produced an e-book full of University of Stirling connected with the project by ‘sharing’ experi- (above); a selection of evocative writing following recent ences through various forms of writing. It’s exactly images from the offi cial the kind of cross-curricular approach to outdoor opening of the Carron Award activity at a nearby nature learning that is central to the future success of the Dams Local Nature Curriculum for Excellence in Scotland. Reserve, plus extracts from reserve. Rebecca Logsdon explains Esto Perpetua (opposite) “Pupils have responded to this opportunity with genuine enthusiasm and a growing respect for the environment,” reports English teacher, NOT EVERY SCHOOL is fortunate enough Lorna Swinney. “I’ve been delighted by the to have a nature reserve on its doorstep, but response to an outdoor learning environment that’s exactly the outdoor resource available to and feel that their writing and focus in English pupils at Larbert High School in Stenhousemuir. has improved as a result of engaging with Set just beyond the con nes of the school fence, nature.” the Carron Dams form a rich mosaic of anks to ‘Live Literature’ funding from the woodland, wetland and fen habitats that are Scottish Book Trust, the English faculty at the home to a range of wildlife – plus plenty of school was able to employ the services of Chris inspiration for those who come to explore. Powici, an environmental poet and creative e Dams are a legacy of the Carron Iron writing tutor at the University of Stirling, who Curriculum for Excellence Company,  rst established in 1759 and which guided the students through their creative and the John Muir Award grew to become one of the largest producers of exploration of the Dams. e very best writing The Curriculum for Excellence is the national iron goods in Europe. e company’s demise – from essays to poetry – has been compiled in curriculum for Scottish saw the lades and dams constructed to channel an ebook anthology, also called Esto Perpetua. schools for learners from water from the River Carron to power its “First year pupils have written movingly and age 3 to 18. The John Muir furnaces fall into disrepair, and the site was with real skill about their Dams adventures,” Award offers an ideal structure to support pupils partially drained. explains Lorna. “ is collection of writing and teachers in their e original iron company logo features a celebrates their engagement with this unique engagement with the phoenix – the mythical creature reborn from its environment, their willingness to share their Curriculum through own ashes – and the motto Esto Perpetua (Last experience and their new-found respect for an outdoor learning. During Forever). It’s an ideal metaphor for a site that area that was previously neglected.” 2012-2013, more than 300 primary, secondary and was once the centre of heavy industry but which And it was an experience that, for some special schools were has now been reclaimed by nature and begun a students, also altered perceptions. Having involved in delivering the new life following its designation in May as a previously heard that the Dams were “a scary Award in Scotland. local nature reserve, managed by the Scottish place because it is often dark and the trees shut www.johnmuiraward.org Wildlife Trust. out the light”, Ryan Wilson found the Dams to be With the reserve’s potential as a valuable “one of the loveliest and most natural places I About the author learning environment now recognised, the have ever seen”. Rebecca Logsdon is the Dams have become well-known to students at We hope you enjoy the following short extracts John Muir Award Scotland the school, as this is where all  rst years from Esto Perpetua. e full collection of writing education manager. She can be contacted at Discover, Explore, Conserve and Share as part of can be read at www.bit.ly/estoperpetua [email protected] NEWS 23

Down the Carron dams everything is beautiful children are set free

River water flows birds call out in old green trees talking to each other

It’s a different world you can smell damp and cold mud down there changes you.

Lucie Hutchins

These trees are ... an old couple, cuddling to keep warm.

These trees are two sisters hugging.

These trees are neighbours shaking hands.

These trees are two best friends, linking arms.

These trees are loud like children.

These trees are mothers, protecting their babies.

These trees are whispering secrets to each other.

These trees are life, pointing to the stars.

Sophie MacAllister

Leaves scatter the ground sounds like the crunch of new snow the crackle of them.

Olivia Urquhart

A proud deer stands watch birds flying through the fresh breeze as the marsh sits still.

Luca Tomassi

Ashleigh Chan 24 WILD DAYS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

By leaves we live

Susan Wright reects in words and pictures on an inspiring visit to the Trust’s property in Knoydart

PHOTOGRAPHY: SUSAN WRIGHT

LIFE D OESN’T GET MUCH better than walking through mixed native woodland in 20 degrees plus of sunshine in Knoydart. In June this year, eight members took the opportunity to join a Wild Day to Li and Coire Dhorrcail – the parcel of land beside Loch Hourn owned ~ Trees may and managed by the Trust since 1987. Led eventually reach by Knoydart property manager Lester further into the mighty Coire Standen, we met in Arnisdale at 8am for Dhorrcail an exhilarating ride across the loch on the Trust’s new boat (funded last year by the People’s Postcode Lottery) and then a day’s walk into Coire Dhorrcail. Some 20 years ago, the Trust had to hand-plant native trees to kick start the regeneration of woodland in this sheep-shorn, ecologically devastated landscape. Today, Scots pine, oak, hazel, birch, rowan and juniper are all rmly established, their seeds dispersed by wind and animals to prompt natural regenera- tion beyond the bounds of the original fence-line. Deer now mix with the woodland, as they should, and so long as we can keep their numbers at a sustain- able level they will continue to enjoy the ~ Deer fences – an ~ Camping in the food source, while trampling the heather imperfect solution company of trees and bracken and creating space for new for walkers, deer and midges by Loch and woodland Hourn seedlings to take hold. Seeing all this at rst-hand, under clear blue skies, was a life-arming experience that lled me with hope and optimism. I was especially mesmerised by the zingy-green oak leaves, and was reminded how important trees are for shelter from the sun, wind and rain; how fantastic it is to hear bird song while walking; and the extra sense of adventure that trees impart as you weave past their varied barks and shapes, discovering new perspectives and fresh woodland life, before emerging onto higher ground and into dramatic coires. e two days were worth every tick and midge bite – and every bit of criticism levelled at the Trust for working to deliver About the author sustainable deer management and save Susan Wright is the Trust’s head of our nation’s woodlands. We hope you communications. She can be contacted enjoy the picture tour on these pages. at [email protected] ~ Trust members Linda, Alistair, Iain and Jack with the Trust boat

€ Through the } An inspiring sight bluebells to look at – sun illuminating the trees taking the leaves of new hold in the gorge oak trees

€ Nature’s choice – these birch trees have regenerated naturally as a cluster 26 JOURNEY JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

In the footsteps of Muir As part of the Trust’s celebration of John Muir’s famous 1,000-mile walk, Al Smith took ‘method’ walking to new heights on a three-day expedition in the Cairngorms

Settling in (clockwise from left): overnight camp in Glen Derry; lush pinewoods; early morning mist on Loch Etchachan; inside the Hutchison Memorial Hut; on Derry Cairngorm

PHOTOGRAPHY: AL SMITH

INSPIRED BY MUIR’S own epic kit list was rather di erent to that which is last minute, a mobile phone so that I expedition from Indiana to Florida in carried by walkers today. It comprised: could tweet on progress to the 1867, and to tie in with the Year of Natural communications team in the o ce. Scotland ‘celebrate John Muir’ theme, a • Wide-brimmed felt hat group of Trust sta and trustees resolved • Cotton shirt SETTING OFF to walk 1,000 miles on foot between • Harris Tweed jacket and waistcoat e  rst day saw a long walk in from the them. Some of the journeys have been • Moleskin trousers Linn o’ Dee to Glen Derry. ere, I found quite short, others much longer. Mine • Boots a nice spot to spend the night and settled was somewhere in between – and with • Woollen blanket down in the glorious afternoon sun. a twist. • Two small loaves of bread However, my  rst night proved Taking one of the challenges posed in • Small bag of tea interesting! Jake had trouble settling in the the recently-launched Mission: Explore • Flint and steel great outdoors and would sit up growling John Muir ebook as my cue – that of • Small bag of tinder at every noise or smell that accosted his exploring in the style of a Victorian • Notebook and pencil senses, waking me in the process. It was naturalist – my contribution involved a • A canvas shoulder bag to carry it all also quite cold, which again caused me to three-day trek in the Cairngorms dressed • Wooden walking stick wake and writhe around a bit to get warm. and equipped as Muir himself would have • One exuberant collie called Jake I awoke once more at 4am, shivering done on so many of his own wild almost as much as Jake, to discover a light sojourns. I also grew an excellent beard. So as to avoid embarrassment, I also covering of frost had added a magical Mirroring Muir as much as possible, my packed a map and compass and, at the sparkle to the world. We had an early NEWS 27

‘I t is often said that the Cairngorms are best appreciated from the high tops where you can get a sense of the scale and grandeur of the landscape’

breakfast, before setting o at 5am decided to spend the night in a bothy to FINAL PUSH beneath cloudless blue skies, heading for give the dog (and me!) some peace. e following morning saw another very Beinn Bhreac. Up to this point – and throughout the early start, although again we enjoyed Once at the summit, it was then a great journey – I had met very few people on sunshine and clear blue skies as we lollop across a huge moss, with dotterel the hill, with those encountered oering a headed into Coire Etchachan. From there, and hare for company, to Beinn a’ varied response. Mostly it was just a amidst wispy mist and cloud, it was a Choarainn (Hill of the rowan, although greeting and a slightly puzzled look, but I stomp up to the summit tors of Beinn not one in sight!). It is often said that the did speak at length with a couple more Mheadhoin, where we saw more hares Cairngorms are best appreciated from the who were very interested in the concept of and dotterel wandering about. We enjoyed a high tops where you can get a sense of the travelling dressed and equipped as Muir. nice little scramble up onto the summit tor, scale and grandeur of the landscape. at One man who also stayed overnight in while a short detour on the descent was certainly the case here with great the bothy – himself an interesting provided wonderful views over Loch A’an views across the central Cairngorms. character – didn’t bat an eyelid. He was and across to the Shelter Stone area. From Beinn a’ Choarainn, we dropped making his way to Faindouran bothy in A later climb to the summit of Derry steeply into the Lairig an Laoigh and then Glen A’an to spend a week there and had Cairngorm was followed by a dry, hot and walked to Glen Derry to collect the kit I’d been ferrying in supplies from Bob Scott’s dusty descent to the glen, ending in cool, left at the previous night’s camp, before bothy near Derry Lodge to the Hutchison lush Caledonian pinewood before a long heading back up the glen in blazing hot and then on to Faindouran – something trek out to the Linn o’ Dee. e trip sun to the Hutchison Memorial Hut. After he does every year for three weeks to the discomfort of the rst night, I had escape from urban life in Manchester. Ò continued 28 NEWS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

brought no great insights or outpourings, Breathing it in: the still but more of a growing sense of calm and waters of Loch A’an (above); peace as time went on – and another 27 granite tors on Beinn Mheadhoin (below) miles to add to the 1,000-mile journey log. I enjoyed walking dressed as Muir, as it took me back to when I was younger and FURTHER INFO wore more natural materials – tweed A version of this article first breeches, cotton shirts and woolly appeared on the John Muir jumpers. It was a reminder of how Award’s 1,000-mile journey versatile these materials are, while the blog site, which contains similarities of the colours I wore to the accounts of many other landscape all around felt earthy and interesting journeys. grounding. I also found that the clothing www.tinyurl.com/jm1000 adapted easily to the changes in tempera- ture and would I’m sure have dealt well MUIR MISSIONS with the rain had there been any. Exploring in the style of a Perhaps surprisingly, the meagre Victorian naturalist is one of rations were also ne, although I wouldn’t 20 challenges set in the like to go much longer just on bread! I had Trust’s new e-book, Mission: a couple of dierent types of loaves and Explore John Muir, which rationed them out each day and never encourages people to follow seemed to get too hungry. in the footsteps of John Muir. e pace at which I travelled probably www.tinyurl.com/mejmbk also helped: having so much time meant I could saunter along, so conserving energy. And it was the pace that was perhaps the most remarkable thing about the whole journey; just setting out with a vague-ish plan of where I was going with About the author no time constraints was incredibly Al Smith is a John Muir Award manager and liberating, with a growing sense of outdoor learning officer for the Cairngorms shedding the many layers of ‘stu’ we National Park Authority. He can be contacted surround ourselves with. at [email protected] Eagle ski advert-Aut-2012 22/08/2013 14:05 Page 1

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Same weekend as 30 BOOKS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

Feral: Searching for With rewilding as much about people as nature, the vision presented here is of a enchantment on the ‘rewilding of human life ... not a retreat frontiers of rewilding, from nature but a re-engagement’. e author highlights an alarming statistic George Monbiot that, since the 1970s, the physical area children play in has reduced by 90%. Climbing trees has been replaced by Mike Daniels is struck by the climbing frames (which of course must be relevance of this important new tested and inspected). e John Muir Award, which works so hard to bring title to the work of the Trust people – especially young people – and nature closer together, forms a  rst step IT’S NOT OFTEN when a book comes towards this re-engagement. out that has such instant resonance and e biggest challenge of all is to remove immediate relevance to the vision and the fear of rewilding that seems to exist work of the John Muir Trust, but that’s amongst politicians and the wider public. certainly the case with this latest title from Monbiot describes how EU agricultural George Monbiot. Not only does it explore rules view re-wilding as ‘abandonment’, a key area of the Trust’s mission – to while the National Farmers Union enhance wild land through the restoration Scotland goes further when it states that: of natural processes – but also clearly sets ‘Fewer sheep mean under-grazing of out the positive case for doing so. traditional pastures, loss of biodiversity, a e book highlights a variety of serious return of bracken and brash and the challenges, from the way our degraded potential irreparable damage to Scot- landscapes are currently gardened in the land’s beautiful landscapes’. name of ‘favourable condition’, to our lack And when it comes to large carnivores, of ambition in returning missing species this fear verges on irrational terror. e that are vital for rewilding our ecosystems. UK is the largest country in Europe that Why do we spend such vast sums of no longer possesses any large carnivores, public money subsidising farming and yet is the most reluctant to bring them  shing industries that support relatively back. Wolves have recently returned, few jobs and cause such widespread under their own steam from neighbouring damage? And why are we so scared of countries, to France, Germany, Belgium nature? and the Netherlands, while their numbers For those unclear as to what rewilding have increased in Italy, Spain and Poland. is – or what it might look like – Monbiot According to Monbiot, statistics from such o ers a range of de nitions. My favourite countries suggest people are far more is ‘after silent spring comes raucous likely to be killed by the wrong type of summer!’ Or how about: ‘rewilding – a slipper (leading to falls down stairs) than rawer and richer future’ as a strapline? Of through being attacked by a wolf. course, for Trust members this is not a As a rallying call for what the Trust is all new topic or concept; since its inception, about, I leave you with the following the Trust has advocated that nature be quote from the book and strongly allowed to do its own thing. Our vision recommend you to read it: ‘ e Twentieth concurs that ‘… re-wilding, unlike Century has been characterised by conservation, has no  xed objective. It is destruction and degradation. Environ- driven not by human management but by mentalists, in seeking to arrest this natural processes’. carnage, have been clear about what And Monbiot presents a compelling people should not do ... now we need to case to support us in our own rewilding be clear about what we want ... to show mission. He details how, by allowing our where hope lies’. wild lands to regenerate, both nature and people can reap rich rewards. e sheer Allen Lane (an imprint of Penguin Books) biodiversity o ered by healthy native 2013, £20.00 woodlands, riparian woodlands and mon- www.penguin.co.uk tane scrub would drastically improve the impoverished communities of insects, plants and animals provided by the two-dimensional upland landscapes we currently have, where the only bits ‘not grazed to the roots by sheep are those grazed to the roots by deer’. As the author points out, you only need to ‘spend two The Reviewer hours in a bushy suburban garden and Mike Daniels is the Trust’s head of land you will see more birds of more species and science. He can be contacted at than walking for  ve miles in the uplands’. [email protected] BOOKS 31

The Ancient Pinewoods of Scotland: Snowdon: The Story of a Welsh A Traveller’s Guide, Clifton Bain Mountain, Jim Perrin Wild Space best-sellers Reviewed by Jim Crumley Reviewed by Dr Will Williams

Forewords by VANESSA COLLINGRIDGE and AUBREY MANNING THE ANCIENT PINEWOODS OF SCOTLAND

Clifton Bain has over 25 years of experience Scattered across the Scottish Highlands working in nature conservation. He has an THE are the surviving remnants of the ancient Honours Degree in Zoology from Aberdeen Caledonian pinewoods; woods which have University and enjoyed a long career as a naturally seeded and grown since the last ice policy officer with the Royal Society for the ANCIENT PINEWOODS age. Protection of Birds. He has twice toured Visiting the ancient pinewoods of Scotland all 38 of the pinewoods, most recently provides an emotional connection to the past completing the journey by relying on public through the visible traces of people who lived transport, walking and cycling. OF SCOTLAND and worked there over the centuries, and He is currently living in his home city of some spectacular individual trees over 350 Edinburgh and is actively involved in a A TRAVELLER’S GUIDE years old. It also provides the opportunity to wide range of national and international look forward, since one of the world’s great conservation activities as Director of the IUCN conservation success stories means a new UK Peatland Programme. future for the woods and their charismatic wildlife. Darren Rees is a professional wildlife artist located in Central Scotland. www.darrenrees. A journey to the ancient pinewoods offers a com natural spectacle alongside a rich cultural heritage which is also described in this Vanessa Collingridge is a geographer, comprehensive and fully illustrated guide. explorer, broadcaster and author. Details are provided on how to reach each Professor Aubrey Manning OBE is a of the sites, some in the farthest mountain distinguished zoologist, author and glens and others easily accessed by public broadcaster. transport, with well-marked routes and visitor facilities. This book is also a tribute to all who have shared my passionate belief that the pinewoods are special and helped turn around their fate.

CLIFTON BAIN Business has been brisk at the

Clifton Bain Trust’s new Wild Space visitor centre in Pitlochry since it opened

CLIFTON BAIN in April, with visitors making the Drawings by Darren Rees most of the outstanding range of books available. Here are some of e author, a professional conservationist Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa), the highest peak in the top sellers to date: whose CV includes policy o cer with the Wales, has inspired many and certainly RSPB and director of the IUCN’s UK the author of this book, Jim Perrin. In fact, Journeys in the Wilderness Peatland Programme, has come up with he is able to draw on a lifetime of walking – a John Muir reader, £12.99 an intriguing and original wheeze: a and climbing to help bring the mountain A wonderful collection of Muir’s how-to-get-there-and-what-you-will- nd to life in a most captivating way. books and writings, including his account of all 38 of Scotland’s ancient Perrin will be familiar to many Trust novels My Boyhood and Youth and pinewoods – without a car. members, not least through his regular First Summer in the Sierra. He calls it ‘A Traveller’s Guide’. Hmm, articles in TGO magazine. For those who guidebooks tend to be small, light, and have climbed Snowdon, this book will add The Many Days: Selected Poems often waterproof, so that they can survive much to the experience; for those who of Norman MacCaig, £9.99 in a rucksack in, say, Scottish pinewood have not, it would be worth slipping into MacCaig loved the landscape of weather. But this book is co ee table in your rucksack (alongside your water- Assynt making his poetry essential size and production values (very good proofs!) when you do. reading for anyone fond of this colour on every page, gorgeous cover e narrative focuses on the human glorious corner of the northwest photo by Laurie Campbell), and it feels as and cultural life imprinted on Snowdon, Highlands. if it must weigh about the same as it costs. although for those interested in the e information is detailed, its maps natural history there are also key refer- Wild – an Elemental Journey, useful, and its central idea is frankly ences to follow up. e mountain is Jay Griffi ths, £9.99 inspired. As a traipser of pinewoods introduced via a two-day, 15-mile A unique, compelling travel book myself, and no great enthusiast of circumnavigation – a novel and apprecia- in pursuit of the savage and the guidebooks, I wandered through these tive way to experience the geography of wild – and what that really means. pages thinking “ooh … didn’t know there the landscape over which it towers so was a pinewood there” and “oh … didn’t elegantly. Caledonia – Scotland’s Heart of know about that”. Snippets of detail that many of us are Pine, Peter Cairns & Niall So, in one way, it does its job well. But already aware of are lovingly presented and Benvie, £22.00 £25 for a traveller’s guide that realistically moulded into a cohesive whole, with the Captivating images and inspiring won’t travel further from the co ee table story of the mountain told through the eyes words combine in a portrait of than the book shelf is certainly a daring of early settlers, fairies, Welsh princes, Scotland’s ancient woodlands and publishing venture. It’s good, it looks travellers, climbers, poets and those who the creatures that live within them better than good. I’m just not quite sure have worked the surrounding land over who it’s for. time. The Last Wolf, Exploring more modern preoccupa- Jim Crumley, £9.99 Sandstone Press 2013, £24.99 tions, the author re ects on Snowdon’s Forthright as ever, Crumley www.sandstonepress.com volume of recreational use, the prolifera- addresses what he sees as the tion of man-made paths and adornments unfair demonisation of a top – including the mountain railway – and predator through the centuries accepts the management and mainte- nance necessary to facilitate such a high High Light – A Vision of Wild level of use. Scotland, Colin Prior, £30.00 Overall, it is a gem – a wonderful book Prior’s extraordinary attention to that takes readers through the struggles, detail has resulted in a stunning achievements and experiences of people collection of images. through the ages in this spectacular corner of Wales. For much more on the Trust’s Wild Space visitor centre, visit Gomer 2012, £14.99 www.jmt.org/wildspace.asp www.gomer.co.uk 32 OUT AND ABOUT JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

As nature intended

A recent survey has highlighted the success of path restoration work at Schiehallion Looking over the over the past decade – with striking ‘before and after’ photos demonstrating how a summit of Schiehallion to Loch Rannoch once heavily-eroded trail has returned to a more natural state, writes Dan Bailey

IN 2005, THE JOHN MUIR TRUST almost to zero,” explains Sandy Maxwell, back into the path surface. In recent years, opened a new path from the Braes of Foss the Trust’s conservation manager for East volunteers have carried out occasional car park up the south-eastern ank of Schiehallion & Glenlude. “ e Trust has spot-turng on some of the still bare areas, Schiehallion to a point at around 780m put a lot of work into restoring the old but while these turfs have almost all where the path becomes an undened path which was an ugly scar on the side of taken, the rate of growth at such altitude rocky route along the ridge to the summit. this popular Munro.” is slow. It replaced a route that had developed Over the course of several work parties, “Since 2004, the work to continue from the car park up a peat-based coire the lower sections of the path were reintroducing spot turfs and re-proling which was so heavily eroded that some of reproled by volunteers. Turf and stone the lower sections has been done by the upper sections suered from muddy water bars were constructed to shed water volunteer work parties,” says Sandy, who peat braiding up to 70m wide in places. o the path line, islands of vegetation also serves as the Trust’s volunteer work As part of the preparation for ‘healing’ between braids were dug o and the parties co-ordinator. “We run around the scar of the old path, the Trust engaged edges of eroded sections dropped. eight days of volunteering with an average ecologist Neil Bayeld to undertake a Elsewhere, the surface was raked over and of 14 people per day each year to both rapid survey technique study of the path spot-turfed in places. Today, while the maintain the new path on Schiehallion in July 2003. In July of this year – the tenth line of the old path can still be discerned, and continue the re-vegetation on the old anniversary of the survey – volunteers much of it is largely covered by vegeta- line.” replicated many of the original tion, with no new signs of water scouring. photographs. e results speak for e upper sections were worked on in a themselves (see opposite). similar but larger scale with the Trust About the author “Since the new path opened on initially using a contractor with a digger to Dan Bailey is an outdoor writer/photographer and Schiehallion ten years ago the number of recreate a series of run-os for the water editor of www.ukhillwalking.com, where a version walkers using the old route has dropped and to bring some of the surrounding turf of this article first appeared. 33

Before and after PHOTOGRAPHY BEFORE: NEIL BAYFIELD AFTER: MARY JONES

Much can happen in 10 years: the lower section of the old path in particular has returned to a much more natural state

Elsewhere, the line of the old path is blending into the surrounding moorland PHOTOGRAPH: DAVE TARVIT/DX FILMS TARVIT/DX DAVE PHOTOGRAPH:

Even at higher altitudes, the difference is striking

FURTHER INFO

Acquired by the John Muir Trust in 1998, East Schiehallion covers an area of 871 hectares (2,153 acres), which includes ‘ Since 2004, the work to continue the eastern part of Schiehallion as well as the quieter and reintroducing spot turfs and wilder Gleann Mòr to the south. At 1,083 metres (3,547 feet), Schiehallion is one of Highland Perthshire’s most popular re-pro ling the lower sections Munros. www.tinyurl.com/jmtesa has all been done by volunteer The Trust would like to thank the Heritage Lottery Fund work parties’ once more for providing the bulk of funding for the path restoration work at Schiehallion. 34 INTERVIEW JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL AUTUMN 2013

Force of nature (clockwise from left): David with one of his avalanche paintings; a visitor enjoying the exhibition at Wild Space; another powerful wintry scene

Cold calling David Fulford’s expressive landscapes are captivating visitors to the Trust’s new Wild Space visitor centre in Pitlochry. Nicky McClure learns about his approach and inspirations

How long have you been painting? What next? I’ve wanted to be an artist since the age of I am working on large abstracts about eight when I used to paint watercolours calving glaciers in Alaska – trying to work out on the back of old Christmas cards. I how you make coldness feel cold in paint. painted animals and spitres, all from memory. Later I went to art school and Any tips for would-be painters of then taught art for 30 years in northeast wild landscape? England and in Jamaica. Be as bold as you can. Look at artists like Barbara Rae, Joan Eardley, Kurt Jackson And your preferred media? and Len Tabner for inspiration, and have I mostly work in oils. I want to capture a a go. I have a belief that painting can sense of place – I love paint and like to actually reveal things. Schopenhauer work with it to make it t the experience. thought that human beings saw things Although my work is fairly eclectic, through a mist or veil, but that creative fundamentally I consider myself to be a people were able to get occasional landscape painter. ese days I mainly glimpses of a deeper reality. And there are make paintings about mountains, having artists nowadays, such as Ian McKeever, visited many fantastic mountain whose paintings epitomise that struggle to landscapes in recent years – from Everest During a trip to Nepal I was involved in see through into some other aspects of to the Rockies and the volcanoes of Japan some serious avalanche near-misses. We reality that we can’t normally grasp. and Stromboli to the glaciers of Iceland were coming down a gorge from the and Alaska. I’m absolutely full of sublime Annapurna Sanctuary when there were What do you think of the Wild Space? thoughts about these places. ve massive avalanches. For hours, I’m really pleased to see that it’s bringing enormous boulders of ice crashed down so many people in and exposing them to How do you like to work? from thousands of feet above us. I’d never the potential of wild land. e video is I work in my studio – painting en plein air before had a near-death experience so lovely and the space is developing into a is harder than people imagine. I make profound that I just ended up being very, fantastic place to buy books and related very large, near abstract landscapes. very calm. e end result was that I did a things. Personally, I’d love to see even My best work comes from very strong lot of paintings when I came back – large more of Muir’s writings as I nd him so memories and emotional connections to paintings of being in those avalanches. I inspiring. my subject matter. For years I’ve had a deep didn’t have any photographs to look at; I interest in the environment. My son lives in just painted it out of my head. I think they Denver, and I’ve been inspired by some are my nest to date. Further info amazing places in Colorado, in particular David Fulford’s paintings of Sandwood the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. is is a How would you describe your work? and Assynt are on show at the Trust’s fantastic place, deeper than the Grand My larger paintings have a strong Wild Space visitor centre in Pitlochry until Canyon, that reveals millennia of geological structure and are essentially abstract. My 9 October. For more on David’s work, visit history through marvellous patterns of latest work is smaller and more overtly www.slowlooking.com strata. I love to nd myself walking in the realistic. It is the result of going to the far About the author footsteps of John Muir and have been to the north of Scotland, which I try to visit a few Nicky McClure is the Trust’s John Muir Glacier in Alaska. His account of times every year. ose visits keep me communications officer. She can be discovering it is astonishing. sane. e call of the north is powerful. contacted at [email protected] V749-cover-aw-04_V749-cover-aw-04 20/03/2013 23:03 Page 2

OUR INSPIRATION 35

John Muir (1838-1914) Five reasons why he inspires us ...

HE DEMONSTRATED A LOVE OF WILD LAND HE WANTED TO EDUCATE PEOPLE ABOUT THE AND OF THE NATURAL WORLD WONDERS OF THE NATURAL WORLD AND INSPIRE “All that the sun shines on is beautiful, PEOPLE TO EXPERIENCE IT FOR THEMSELVES so long as it is wild.” “I care to live only to entice people to look Wild Parks and Forest Reservations of the West at Nature’s loveliness.” roughout his life, Muir was drawn to wild places. He Letter to Mrs Ezra S Carr revelled in all aspects of the natural world, from detailing the Despite the writing process – he preferred to be smallest insect to bathing in sublime vistas and experiencing in the wilderness, rather than writing about it – Muir felt it part imposing mountain scenery. He would argue with the likes of of his life’s mission to educate others about the wonders of the John Burroughs over who loved nature the most and, although natural world. In his writing, Muir tried to convey his love and he would spend time away, Muir would always feel the pull of interpretation of the natural world but also included scient c the wild calling him back to the mountains and forests of the facts, aiming to advance the knowledge of the reader. In doing American wilderness. so, he hoped to inspire others to experience the wilderness for themselves and to care about the natural world as he did. Like birds HE ARGUED FOR THE INTRINSIC VALUE OF NATURE HE CAMPAIGNED FOR THE PROTECTION “Surely a better time must be drawing nigh OF WILD PLACES when godlike human beings will become truly of a feather… humane, and learn to put their animal fellow “Government protection should be thrown mortals in their hearts instead of on their around every wild grove and forest on the Deer and woodland go together. backs or in their dinners.” mountains, as it is around every private Trees provide food and shelter for Story of My Boyhood and Youth orchard, and the trees in public parks.” John of the Mountains: Unpublished Journals of John Muir deer; deer create gaps and niches At a time when society saw nature’s value in terms of the for tree seedlings and other plants to material and economic it red, Muir presented a Muir’s contribution to the conservation movement – in America rent perspective: that the natural world had a value that and across the world – shouldn’t be underestimated. He was rish. More plants = more insects wasn’t dependent on its use by humans and that mankind ntial in the formation of several of America’s national = more animals = more birds = more should occupy a place that was a part of nature, rather than parks; helped to found the now hugely ntial Sierra Club; trees = more plants = more insects having dominion over it. and was one of the to suggest that conservation could be ju on the grounds of the intrinsic value to be found in = more animals ... and so the circle natural places and the spiritual and health that wild of life goes. HE ARGUED FOR THE RESTORATIVE AND places bring to those who visit them. Today, his articles and SPIRITUAL EFFECTS OF EXPERIENCING NATURE books continue to encourage people to visit wild places and If we help nature rish, our reward AND WILDERNESS remain an inspiration for those who ht to preserve such places for future generations. is a thriving ecosystem that delivers “Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, food, fuel, shelter, building material, places to play in and pray in, where nature fresh water, beauty and a sense of may heal and give strength to body and soul wonder. alike.” Yosemite Join us In a world where nature’s to humans still tend to be expressed in economic terms, Muir’s view on the value of www.johnmuirtrust.org wildness a relevant and important perspective on our relationship with nature. He argued that experience of nature was an essential part of human existence and that, by visiting

wild lands and escaping civilisation, it is possible to recharge mind and body.

TeXT: paul BIelBy V749-cover-aw-04_V749-cover-aw-04 20/03/2013 23:03 Page 1

36 NEWS JOHN MUIR TRUST JOURNAL JOHN MUIR TRUST 10 A look back at the AUTUMN 2013 birth of the Trust 22 How Knoydart is now JOURNAL a landscape reborn 26 The making of the 54 spring 13 Trust’s new Wild Space

special 30th anniversary issue