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Fjord

Norway isescort a country of stunning mountains, waterfalls and fjords, and there are few better ways to experience it than by joining 5,500 other cyclists for this annual 100-mile ride. Just make sure you pack your rain jacket Words Wesley Doyle Photography George Marshall

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Previous page: Riders hink of and cross the Fyksesund sooner or later you will Bridge near the The details midway point of the think of Vikings. Long Get in quick for 2014 Bergen-Voss sportive of sword and big of beard, they rampaged across 10th Below: Bergen makes for a beautiful (if rather century Europe, invading, pillaging expensive) starting and plundering, their impact on point for the event language and culture (and indeed on current episodic television) cannot be overestimated. However, here in the country of their origin things have changed for the modern day Norwegian, particularly the ones lined up at the start of the Bergen-Voss sportive. The horned iron helmets have been replaced by expanded polystyrene lids, the rampaging is done on expensive carbon bikes, and the flaggons of mead have given way to hydration backpacks. (That’s right, the mountain biker’s water carrier of choice can be What Bergen-Voss Sportive seen here on the backs of countless Scandic road Where Bergen to Voss on the riders – someone call the Velominati!) west coast of Norway Bergen-Voss is an annual 100-mile sportive When 31st May 2014 that runs from the main town in the west of the Distance 170km, with three country along the coast and up over mountains major climbs: Gullbotn, to the town of Voss. The event (taking place for Kvamskogen and Skjervet. the 38th time in 2014) regularly sees up to 5,500 Price Registration is NOK750 (£80). The ride is point-to- riders taking part, making it a big deal for both point, so organised towns and, if the turn out of spectators along the transportation back to Bergen route is anything to go by, a big deal for the is available for an extra whole region too. A sportive of this size needs NOK300 (£32). the organisational discipline of a small army, P Contact bergenck.no

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P and it’s to the credit of event organiser Nils Olaf Solberg and his team that everything from registration, the route, the food stations and the support are meticulously planned out. Then again, Norwegians are known for their efficiency almost as much as their long boats. Despite the popular view of Norway being a wintery nation, the weather for this sportive is normally pretty good and the pictures on the event website show scores of happy riders enjoying stunning views in glorious sunshine. And, as Nils informs me, it was indeed hot and sunny the day before I arrived, but unfortunately some unseasonal wet weather has now swept in from the west and created the double whammy of cold, wet conditions on bone-dry roads – not a brilliant combination, and hardly conducive to appreciating the impressive landscape.

Inspecting Norse Due to the sheer number of riders taking part, the first group sets off at 5.30am, which means the party atmosphere is in full swing in the centre of Bergen by the time I get to the start ready for my 7.30 getaway. The noise is a bit much for this time of the morning to be honest, so I warm up by doing loops around the local streets, then join the queue for my depart. The route begins by heading south through the neighbourhood of and its partially cobbled streets give us all a mini Paris-Roubaix experience. I’ve been seconded to a local team who have ambitions for a fast time today, but the unfamiliar roads (for me) and torrential rain have me erring on the side of caution, and after a

language barrier their message to slow down is clear and emphatic. The ambulance I saw earlier ‘The road is tight and the is parked up by the side of the road, doors open but as I pass there’s no sign of any crash, just only thing between me riders and police milling around. Any curiosity about the scene is forgotten as the pace once and a vertigo-inducing again picks up on the fast descent down to the first fjord of the day, Sørfjorden. drop is a flimsy railing’ Everything is big in Norway. The sheer cliffs around this vast body of water are stunning, only while I decide not to risk holding them up, so the dismal weather has conspired to take the drop off the back of the group. Still, at least edge off of the spectacle. I try to squint through now I can take in the scenery rather than trying the rain to take in the view, but need to focus to hang onto the back wheel of someone on a on the route ahead in order to navigate the mission to smash the course record. treacherous roads as I head eastwards towards I soon find a group of similar ability and join Trengereid. It’s here that I hit the first of the day’s its dozen-strong chain as we head north towards three big climbs, Trengereidsvingene, rising up Indre . As the road starts to ramp up the to my right at what feels like a solid 10%. rain comes down harder and I soon find myself In the gloom, the riders around me resemble Above left: The poor making way for an ambulance along the narrow conditions can’t space ships coming out of hyperspace, dropping roads, its siren wailing and lights flashing. The dampen the patriotic from fast to barely moving. For the first time roads are very tight and the only thing between enthusiasm of some today I find myself overtaking groups of riders supporters… me and a vertigo-inducing drop to my left is a rather than individuals, the sheer size of many flimsy waist-height railing. I make a concerted Above right: …but it Norwegians being a distinct disadvantage to effort to stick to the opposite side of the road. can obscure the view climbing such tight hairpin roads. Before my of the mountains that On the other side of the climb the number of line the edges of new-found confidence can be translated into wardens on the road increases and despite the Norway’s many fjords Nibali-style devil-may-care descending I’m P

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A break in the mist P reminded of the glass-like surface conditions merely serves to show when a rider I’ve been drafting loses traction on The rider’s ride the peloton just how 2013 Giant TCR Advanced 1, £2,499, giant-bicycles.com much climbing they a left-hand bend and slides unceremoniously still have to do down the road on his backside while I narrowly At 177cm tall and weighing in at position. And of course the tight miss his spinning bike. I’m almost glad to see the 80kg, I like to think of myself as frame geometry makes it stiff and brief climb up the charmingly named Golden compact, which is probably why reactive. The gearing set-up on this I got on with the TCR’s equally model was more suited to fast flats, Mountain (Gullfjellet) to Gullbotn and the first compact frame. but I didn’t struggle too much on the food station – if only because it slows me down. It’s definitely a bike for racing: hills thanks to the bike’s overall While I’m sure Norway is a very beautiful the aero-profile seat tube hugs the lightness. On the descents, the country, I’m barely seeing any of it, as the bad rear wheel to minimise drag, while handling remained poised in the conditions and need to keep my eyes fixed on the relatively long top tube places wet. It’s one for the sportive rider the road ahead means there’s scant opportunity the rider in a fairly aggressive riding who likes to spend time in the drops. for sight-seeing. We’re approximately 50km in, and the rain hasn’t shown any sign of abating. I’m about to find out there’s shelter ahead, but not the type any rider would particularly enjoy.

Into the dark Norway has more than 900 road tunnels, with a total length exceeding 750km. This means one of the prerequisites of riding the Bergen-Voss sportive is having a set of working lights on your bike – without them you can’t start – because some of these tunnels are very long and very, very dark. The first ones I encounter are fine. As I speed alongside the Samnanger fjord with its fish farms stretching along the base of the cliffs, the tunnels carved into the mountainside are short enough to see the light at the end as you enter them. However once I get over the big climb up to the mountain of Kvamskogen and start the descent down the Tokagjel gorge they P

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P start to get longer and the pleasure of being Left: Spray from the out of the rain is outweighed by having to mighty Skjervsfossen waterfall is unlikely to ‘Norway has more than negotiate the gap between a cold rock wall and bother the riders on the side of a passing coach. In the dark. Uphill. this particular ride It’s a nerve-shredder, and once I leave the fourth 900 road tunnels, with Below: Bike lights are such tunnel I almost look forward to the familiar a prerequisite at the a total length exceeding fjord-side roads with their reassuring sheer Bergen-Voss owing to drops and low concrete barriers. the large number of tunnels along the route I pick up speed again along the Hardanger 750km. Lights are a must’ fjord eastwards, passing through Øystese, crossing the Fyksesund bridge, which is so awe-inspiring I briefly consider stopping to take some photos. Instead I ride on, mood buoyed by the fact the rain has stopped and the sun is doing its best to put in an appearance. One more food stop at the ferry port of Kvanndal and then onto the mountains that run alongside Granvin fjord, before the final big climb of the day, the Skjervet. The sun is making its presence felt now and all my layers are unzipped and flapping in the breeze. For the first time today the beauty of Norway opens itself to me, and as I skirt the amazing Skjervsfossen waterfall I can see sights that the earlier inclement weather robbed me of: the rocky yet verdant landscape and the glass-like water of the fjords far below. On the last 10km downhill into Voss I go down on the drops for what feels like the first time today and time-trial my way towards the finish line. Despite the fatigue brought on by the previous 160km, I hit my top speed of the day and gain a glimpse of what the rest of the ride P

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How we got there Follow in our wheel tracks… Accommodation Bergen is Norway’s second biggest city and, as they say, the gateway to the fjords, so there are plenty of hotels to choose from. However, as with most things Scandic, anything more than your basic hotel is eye-wateringly expensive. Which means the Scandic Bergen City at 1012NOK (£106) a night for a twin room with Above: The pack tackles breakfast is pretty good value. the final major obstacle of the day – the Skjervet ‘For the first time today the Be warned though, you’ll be climb near Voss staying in a city centre hotel on a weekend so bring some beauty of Norway opens itself to earplugs. We found a bloke passed out by the lift on our me and it takes my breath away’ floor when leaving for the race.

Food and drink chatting to a local sitting opposite, whose According to TripAdvisor, English is almost as good as mine. He tells me Norway is the most expensive he’s ridden every edition of this race (37 in total) place on earth. My post-race and this was the busiest it’s ever been. He also pint cost me nearly £7 and says that the weather was particularly bad this as for food I did what every year, so it would seem I was unlucky – just the self-respecting tourist on a budget would do: totally rinsed excuse I need to come and ride it again. the hotel’s breakfast buffet. After picking up my commemorative T-shirt For the rest of the time I ate and medal I see Nils and go to congratulate him pasties and pizzas from the on a well-executed event. He is – understandably convenience stores. Should in light of what he goes on to tell me – in a solemn you wish to sit down to a meal, mood. Earlier in the day a 48-year-old Norwegian you might be in for a shock who was riding with friends was killed after when the bill arrives.

leaving the road and falling 130 feet into a ravine. Travel P could have been like if the rain had held off. Despite this being the only death from an Flights to Bergen from London It has been a day of caution rather than carefree accident in the race’s history, as the news with Easyjet (easyjet.com) in abandon, and it feels good to let rip for a while, spreads among the finishers it obviously leaves May start from around £40, although my bravado almost gets the better of a cloud hanging over the event (it’s only later while flights with British me in Voss when a car that I can only presume when I watch the news reports that I realise the Airways (britishairways.com) has taken a wrong turn appears right in front of accident happened at the spot near Indre Arna will start from about £60. the finish line. So rather than a celebratory fist where I’d seen the ambulance). Thanks in the air I find myself braking and skidding over Immediately I’m hit by strangely conflicting Many thanks to Nils Linn Kjos the line. Still, at this point nothing can take the feelings: sadness at a fellow rider’s untimely Falkenberg of Visit Bergen for shine off my achievement: 100 miles in ropey death, but relief that it wasn’t me; anger that arranging the accommodation, conditions in just over six hours – I’ll take that. this can be allowed to happen, but pity for the Nils Olaf Solberg and Tom organisers who have to deal with it. It throws up Bjørnset for the race entry Food for thought questions about cycling and why we do it, but and for getting us around. Also thanks to Fisher Outdoor Once over the finish I follow other weary riders I’m not going to try and answer those now. I just (fisheroutdoor.co.uk) for ] to a nearby sports centre. I take a hot shower and know that I won’t be stopping any time soon. providing the very warm and then avail myself of a bowl of hearty Norwegian Wesley Doyle is a freelance writer who believes waterproof Santini kit and stew with bread and tea. I find a place at one of he may just be the reincarnation of Norse god to Giant for the loan of their the long tables set up in the gymnasium and get Freyr – the bringer of rain very light and fast bike.

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