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ROMAIN GROSJEAN Three adorable but unlucky crayfish paid the price of an encounter between Michelin-starred chef Georges & GEORGES WENGER Wenger and Formula 1 driver Romain Grosjean, who now represents the star-spangled banner, after joining American OR: THE ART F1 racing team Haas. In the blink of an eye, the crustaceans were dispatched under the attentive gaze of the driver, OF COMBINING victims of the chef’s swift and precise movements.

BY LIONEL FROISSART YOUR PASSIONS PHOTOGRAPHY ARNO LAM

118 119 At home on the range! Georges Wenger and Romain Grosjean perform a culinary duet.

visit to the Les ly precious time to meeting the partners and Cooking, like motorsports, is Breuleux Richard friends who support him year round. a practice that hones both the WENGER’S Mille factory proved So it is that our poor crayfish, overcome by the senses and the virtue of patience RESTAURANT the perfect opportuni- heat of the induction hob in a matter of sec- ty–or an excellent pre- onds, bloom from grey to orange in the time it “Cuisine of an inimitable honesty, unlike any other” Far from being a novice in the kitchen, his favourite place after text–to introduce the takes the master of the house to share the se- Georges Wenger selects products from the amongst the racetrack, Romain has a sure handle on the tools, and the two men, who discov- crets of a refined yet simple dish, garnished tricks, of the trade. the region’s best vegetable growers, orchards, ered that they had more in common than they with a few white beans, a delicate leaf of tarra- livestock producers, butchers, fisheries and gatherers...a close-knit brotherhood of producers, Aimagined. Of course, Romain Grosjean trav- gon, and a creamy morel sauce. But the driver many of them friends, dedicated to the excellence of els the world to satisfy his passion for speed isn’t just there to watch. A perfect apprentice, their foodstuffs and their terroir. and competition, whilst Georges Wenger, Romain Grosjean joins in, carefully adjusting

Restaurant & Hôtel Georges Wenger The menu: crayfish painstakingly who has lived since 1981 in Le Noirmont, a ingredients with a hint of hesitation to ensure Rue de la Gare 2 – CH-2340 Le Noirmont laid atop a bed of flat beans by peaceful village of the Swiss Jura, really only a plate worthy of being served. The customer Tel. +41 (0) 32 957 66 33 Romain, who is careful to guard ever leaves his kitchen to greet his guests at is always assumed to be a highly exacting con- the secret he now shares. [email protected] the door of his restaurant. Yet he is not a com- noisseur, but the aim is to surprise and delight knowledge of English and the world of luxury Restaurant closed Monday & Tuesday. Hotel open 7/7 plete stranger to the world of motorsports. As without intimidating even a neophyte. before starting on cooking. I tried to explain to he explains in his soft voice, “some of my cli- Bent over the crayfish with the determination them that motorsport and F1 had given me a ents are enthusiasts of fine engineering and he exhibits on the starting line of a qualifying head start in that respect.” bodywork. Car racing is very tightly regulated session, Grosjean sets to work–a joint creative But Grosjean wasn’t discouraged. Keeping in in Switzerland (1) but that doesn’t mean one exercise jokes the chef–while absorbing tips touch with the world of motorsport–still the can’t be interested… even though Formula 1 for progressing in a field that is his second pas- area where he is the most gifted–in order to races tend to coincide with the Sunday lunch sion, and almost became his vocation. Today, put his career back on track, offered opportu- service.” the driver can speak easily about the difficult nities to forge new ties in the world of haute One such diner-aficionado is, in fact, Richard moment in his career when, fearing he had cuisine. During the Monaco Grand Prix in Mille, the archetypal mechanics and car en- taken a wrong turn, he envisaged switching to 2014, for instance, he met Akrame Benallal, thusiast. As his factory and design office are the restaurant industry from banking, to- who has two Michelin stars to his credit at located less than 500 seconds–to be precise– wards which his studies were leading him. merely 33 years old, and with whom Grosjean from chef Georges Wenger’s eponymous two- “Banking is boring. So ,when I was dropped has since learnt the nuts and bolts of the trade. star restaurant, it has become something of a from Formula 1 in late 2009, I wanted to study One could do worse as a private tutor! canteen for when he visits his with Grégoire Ferrandi.” But he was foiled Ironically, it was thanks to motorsport that Ro- watchmakers. Given that the Franco-Swiss again, as the renowned but slightly snooty main Grosjean discovered the culinary arts. Romain Grosjean, an enthusiastic cook and French school of gastronomy passed over the “All sportsmen and women are obliged to fol- foodie when he is not behind the wheel of his apprentice chef. “They too turned me away. I low diets. As weight is something of an obses- Formula 1 car is one of Richard’s sports am- was apparently too old, at 24!” cracks the driv- sion for Formula 1 engineers, it becomes an bassadors, it was only natural that the two men er, with a hint of both humour and annoyance, enemy for drivers. You have to keep in shape should meet. For a Grand Prix driver, the though he was by no means so self-confident while staying as light as possible. As I person- off-season is ideal for devoting some extreme- at the time. “Ferrandi insisted I gain some ally shouldn’t really go over 70 kg for my

120 121 Romain listens attentively to the master chef in the pristine and peaceful kitchen vacated moments travelbook ago by Wenger’s team. FOOD “IN OVER 15 YEARS, I DON’T RECALL EVER HAVING EATEN THE

1.80 metre frame, I said to myself that rather shows currently in vogue. “I never raise my of the cook. So much so that during his few than making do with a classic pasta-based diet voice. I suffered under that approach all too rare moments of leisure time, he delves into SAME THING TWICE AT on the circuit, I was going to cook healthy much during my apprenticeship from the age the archives of his art. “I often take this illustra- meals myself with the advice of a nutritionist, of 16. So I avoid pressuring my team. A suc- tion from a late 1700 cookery book as an exam- as diet plays a part in energy recovery.” cessful dish is also a matter of unity. I tend to ple. A dish is served, and a man seated at the However, in Romain Grosjean’s mind, a dish appeal to intelligence rather than obedience.” table cries ‘truffles yet again!’ At the time, it was isn’t just about its ingredients; its flavour and This memorable expression seems to have a poor person’s food, proof that some dishes aesthetics are equally essential, a philosophy borne fruit, when you consider all the distinc- have to be socialised. You also have to learn to GEORGES’, THAT’S HOW shared by Georges Wenger. As they prepare tions earned by the Swiss chef over the last make use of the produce available within a lim- the much-vaunted dish starring our poor quarter of a century. (2) ited area. has an undeniable advantage crayfish, chef Wenger and the king of speed As is all too common in the motorsport world, thanks to the diversity of its terrain and cli- discuss similarities between their respective the winnowing process of selection is ruth- mate. In Switzerland, we are more restricted fields. The two men very quickly recognise less. Without naming names, Georges (by the climate and topography). 50% of the that a good race result and the success of a dish Wenger reveals: “Pick up a gastronomic guide food cooked in my restaurant is produced in are an outcome of the combined efforts and from ten years ago and look how many future Switzerland, because I am committed to cui- CREATIVE HE IS. I CAN cooperation of an entire team. At each one of culinary ‘geniuses’ haven’t lived up to their sine with an identity.” his ten podium finishes–of which two were promise. Too young, too much pressure.” Ro- In the same way that a racing team and driver second place–the driver, who was with Lotus main Grosjean–who, in wanting to do too prepare for specific circuits, Georges Wenger, until he signed for American team belonging much too young, was almost a victim of the who changes his menu every five or six weeks, to , has never failed to point out the same phenomenon in Formula 1–couldn’t plans his crops and menus according to the merits of his team, all too aware that in Formu- agree more. However, the driver was able to seasons by thinking one year ahead. Likewise, SAFELY SAY THAT I HOLD la 1, between 250 and 500 people (for the influ- re-evaluate himself. Previously impulsive, he Romain Grosjean will only know whether he ential teams of major manufacturers) contrib- has since matured, became a father, and has made the right decision in joining the ute to the success of a single individual. “The grown wiser behind the wheel while continu- in the months ahead. And yet, driver is at the head of a project often led by a ing to pick up speed. He has now become one despite being very much in demand due to his major manufacturer, with all the investment of the key drivers in the Grand Prix arena. Formula 1 star status, the driver has not lost that implies. In a kitchen, the chef has very sight of his plans for a restaurant with his similar responsibilities. He plays an essential The service ended less than half an hour ago, friend Akrame Benallal. Between now and HIM TO BE ONE OF THE role in the unity of the group,” adds Georges but it is almost as if nothing had ever happened then, Romain Grosjean will have the opportu- Wenger, who himself leads an army of 25 em- in the kitchen. Just one last wipe down of the nity during the Azerbaijan Grand Prix, a new ployees, managed with the help of his wife stainless-steel worktop, a piece of lamb to be fixture on the Formula 1 calendar, to sample Andrea, whose presence he makes sure to put back into the fridge–Georges Wenger, the fare at Atelier Vivanda, recently opened by mention. What is surprising about his kitch- who has made lamb his speciality could dis- his friend in Baku. ens–or perhaps more aptly his workshops–is course for hours on the 200 species recorded the pervading sense of calm. Long before he in his region–a quick taste of a leftover dessert, (1). SINCE THE ACCIDENT IN WORLD’S GREATEST 1955, WHICH KILLED OVER 80 SPECTATORS, CIRCUIT earned his two Michelin stars in 1997, Wenger and everything is ready for the evening shift. RACES HAVE BEEN BANNED IN SWITZERLAND. began to apply methods very different from Romain Grosjean and Georges Wenger are (2) 1981, PURCHASED THE LE NOIRMONT STATION what is imagined by the general public, name- still exchanging views on their respective RESTAURANT, 1985; JACQUES LACOMBE TROPHY, 1987; LES GRANDES TABLES DE SUISSE, 1991; ly a chef shouting at his employees and ap- worlds. The chef talks at great length about cu- GAUTMILLAU CLÉ D’OR, 1997; GAUTMILLAU CHEF OF prentices, a bad-tempered dictator bent on linary history, and about produce in particular, THE YEAR, THREE TOQUES ROUGES RATING, TWO humiliating his troops. Of course, such ex- which is a determining factor in his eyes, more STARS IN THE MICHELIN GUIDE AND PUBLICATION OF HIS WORK, LES SAISONS DE LA TERRE COOKS” treme ideas are promoted by the cookery important than the expertise and experience JURASSIENNE.

— RICHARD MILLE — 122