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THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. **** Saturday/Sunday, August25-26, 2018 | D7 EATING & DRINKING

cantakeweeks or even months,as I’dbrought some Sauternes to Bâ- pickerspassthrough the tard on acorkage-free night, and Mr. multiple times to pick only the per- Jacobeit professed pleasureatsee- fectly botrytised .Mr. Du- ing the ,though he confessed, bourdieu noted that they might har- “Likeeveryone else Idon’t drink vest the same vineyardthree or four very much Sauternes.” My four half times when making asweet — bottles (a popular sizeamong Sau- versus oncetoproduceadry wine. ternes producers) included the 2009 This work costs time and Château Guiraud ($30), 2010 Châ- money, yet even the best teau Doisy-Védrines ($25), 2007 Sauternes are remarkably afford- Château Suduiraut ($35) and 2009 able, even cheap compared to Château Rieussec.($32). other great wines of . The latter two are among the There may be no other wine in the most venerable names in Sau- world whose price is so dispropor- ternes, and the wines, especially tionate to the cost of its produc- the Rieussec, were very good. tion, especially at the top estates. While the Guiraud and the Doisy- BéréniceLurton, owner of first- Védrines were simple and a bit too growth estateChâteau Climens,be- sweet, almost syrupy, the Sudu-

KIM lieves Sauternes areunderpriced iraut (slightly oxidative) and

UN relativeto“the work,the rarity and Rieussec were nuanced and ele- YO

BO the exceptionality” of the wines.Al- gant. The Rieussec had a brisk ), though the wines of Climens are acidity that made it particularly re-

TTLES moreexpensivethan most other freshing and easy to drink.

(BO first-growth Sauternes,they still seem likeremarkable deals.Abottle

JOURNAL of the 2015 Château Climens costs Theremay well be $70, whereas afirst-growth Bor- REET

ST deaux likeChâteau Latour costsat no other wine with

LL least 20 times that and oftenmore.

WA apricethat’s so Château Climens wasdesignated THE afirst-growth estateinthe 1855 disproportionatetothe

MIN/ Classification of Sauternes and Bar-

RA cost of itsproduction. sac,the same year that the Médoc TIN Classification wasestablished for MAR dryred Bordeaux.Although the Mé- F. doc wines were ranked as first Thenexteight wines Ibought and through fifthgrowths—with the top tasted over the next several days ON WINE / LETTIE TEAGUE including such famous names as were asimilarly mixed lot. Some Lafite and Latour—the wines of Sau- were abit heavy and sweet—cloying ternes and Barsac were ranked only and alcoholic—the sort that might as firstand second growths.Addi- scareapotential Sauternes fan TheBestBargain in tionally,Château d’Yquem wasallo- away.Otherswerebeautifully bal- catedaclassofits own, premier anced with abrisk acidity that coun- supérieur,and it is priced accord- teredthe sweet, rich fruit. ingly.The current vintagesells for My favorites included the lithe French Wines around $500 abottle,which made it and charming 2015 Château Coutet tooexpensivetotastefor the pur- ($30) and the 2015 Château Climens poses of this column, alas. Barsac ($40), richer and morelush. Back when the classifications Thelighter but still very well bal- were made,the sweet whitewines anced 2010 Château Filhot ($24) OVER THE YEARS, readershave grapes—Semillon, getasingle glassofwine from a of Bordeaux were just as valuable as wasalso apleasure, as wasthe asked whyIhaven’t writtenmore and/or —with abenefi- vine,” she said. By contrast, she said, the reds.But as the fame (and price) pretty if comparatively slighter 2015 about sweet wines.Iregret over- cial rotcalled . The producersofdry redBordeaux can of topred Bordeaux escalated ever Château Violet-Lamothe ($22). And looking this category,and no more rotmakes the grapes’ skin perme- get“abottle of wine” from avine. upward, the pricefor the best sweet at 14%alcohol they were all easy to so than in the case of Sauternes,the able so that the sun evaporates wa- Therot develops thanks to the re- whites remained low. Theresimply drink—lessalcoholic than most great sweet whitewine of Bordeaux. terinside,thereby concentrating the gion’shigh humidity,aresult of its wasn’t the same kind of demand. Napa Cabernets. They also last days, Sauternes has been off the radar sweetness, acids and flavorsofthe location between two rivers—the Fewpeople drink sweet wine ex- even weeks,after opening in are- of Americans fordecades,and the fruit and also,ultimately,giving the large Garonne and the smaller cept “onspecial occasions and frigerator,ifitactually takesyou wines areoften hardtotrack down. wine adeep golden hue. —and the morning miststhat Christmas,” as Ms.Lurton noted. Ja- that long to consume them. ThetinySauternes —lo- Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu, man- envelop the vineyards.The rot son Jacobeit, wine director at Bâ- None of the best wines were sim- catedjust south of in Bor- aging director and co-owner of Châ- rarely developsevenly,though. tard in NewYork,confirmed this ply sweet; they were wines of depth deaux and composed of five com- teau Doisy Daëne in Barsac,said it Some grapes might be affected more when Ivisited his restaurant afew and richnessthat seemed to deserve munes that include Sauternes and costshim two to three times more quickly than others, and some might weeks ago. While he tries very hard their owncategoryortype.Perhaps Barsac—accountsfor just 1% of the to produceasweet than adry wine not acquirerot at all—or they might to persuade dinerstodrink Sau- “wines of purepleasure.” How wines produced in Bordeaux. in Sauternes.Aline Baly, co-owner develop abad rotinstead. Some- ternes and even offerstwo by the would that title look on arestaurant Sauternes wines arealso quite and marketing director of Château times acombination of the above glass, priced very cheaply—“loss wine list or storeshelf? hardtoproduce. Theprocess in- Coutet in Barsac,described the tiny will occur within the very same leaders” in industryparlance—it’s volves deliberately affecting ripe production in terms of volume.“We bunch of grapes.This means oftentoverylittle avail.  Email Lettie at [email protected].

OENOFILE / SAUTERNES HALF-BOTTLES TO SAVORNOW OR SAVE FORAFEW YEARS

2015 Château Violet-La- 2010 Château Filhot Château Rieussec Sau- 2015 Château Coutet 2015 Château Climens mothe Sauternes ($22) Sauternes ($24) ternes ($32) This first- Barsac ($30) Ownedby Barsac ($40) Sauternes This is what I’d call a The wines from this growth estate sits on a Philippe, Dominique and lovers consider this first- “starter” Sauternes: second-growth estate hill said to be the sec- Aline Baly,this first- growth estate the clos- pretty and light-bodied, aresaid to have been ond highest in the re- growth and first-rate es- estpeerofChâteau an attractive and unde- admired by Thomas gion after the one occu- tate produces some of d’Yquem. This wine is manding wine with ap- Jefferson back in the pied by Château the bestwines in Barsac. sumptuous and powerful pealing aromas of apri- day. This wine is rela- d’Yquem. The 2010 is an The 2015,while still but immensely refined, cot and passionfruit. A tively lightbodiedwith extraordinarily elegant youthful, is concentrated with exceptional length— Sauternes for sipping on good concentration wine, its richness bal- but also quitelithe,with one to keep,though it’s a hot summer night. and lively fruit. anced by bright acidity. asilken texture. hardnot to drink.

SLOW FOOD FAST / SATISFYING AND SEASONAL FOOD IN ABOUT 30 MINUTES

Roast Salmon With Kimchi Succotash HOEWELER MICHAEL

“WHEN IEAT at home,Iliketoeat gian salmon because it’sfattier andmore BY

healthy,” said Ann Kim. “Salmon is some- forgiving,” she said. Thetangykimchi bal- ION

thing Icook alot.” At this time of year, ances the sweetnessofthe summer-vege- AT TR

the Minneapolis chef also spends alot of table succotash, but if youdon’t happen US ILL

time browsing local farm stands.For her to have anyonhand, no problem. “Just T, second SlowFood Fast contribution, she add moreacid, likelemon juice,” she said. -HAR The Chef serves oven-roasted salmon over the con- Not that Ms.Kim could imagine asce- Ann Kim tentsofatypical August haul—corn, rad- nario in which her kitchen would ever be ALEZ

ishes,snap peas and purple cabbage—sau- without kimchi. “Growing up we’d always GONZ Her Restaurants téed to emphasizetheir high-summer have it on the table,” she said. “Fresh sweetness. Bacon brings savory richness kimchi is so mild Ieat it straight.” As CARLA

Pizzeria Lola, BY Hello Pizza and to the mix,and alittle cabbagekimchi kimchi ages,its fermented fizz and flavor

Young Joni, all adds itsown fermented zip. intensify; sautéing it in butter, as she YLING Ms.Kim recommends buying salmon does here, mellows itsbite. But it still ST in and around OP

Minneapolis filletsveined with agood amount of fat, provides enough of an edgetomakeall PR

which will melt down to help protect the the other flavorspop. GE, RE WhatShe’s Known fish from overcooking.“IpreferNorwe- —Kitty Greenwald URE

For Skillfully LA

and creatively BY 1 interweaving TotalTime: 20 minutes 1cup /2 -inch diced radish Transferbacon to apaper- YLING

strands of Korean, Serves: 4 3tablespoons cabbage towellinedplate and discard ST American and kimchi, roughly chopped mostfat from pan. Addre- OD FO Italian cuisines. 4(6-ounce) skin-on salmon 2tablespoons butter maining oliveoil to pan and 1 Unexpected flavor fillets /2 lemon return to medium-high heat.

combinations that 2tablespoons oliveoil Stir in garlic,snap peas,corn, JOURNAL,

neverthelessmake Kosher salt and freshly 1. Preheatovento450 de- cabbage,radishes,kimchi and REET perfectsense. ground black pepper grees. Arrange salmon on a butter. Cook until vegetables ST 6bacon slices,cut intobite- baking sheet and season with arecrisp-tender,2-3 minutes. LL WA sizepieces(optional) 1tablespoon oil, salt and pep- Return bacon to pan and toss THE

1whole clove garlic per.Bakeuntil filletsare flaky until combined, about 1min- R FO

1cup sugar snap peas,sliced and tender,10-12 minutes de- ute. Turn offheatand season H 1 OS into /2 -inch pieces pending on thickness. with lemon juiceand salt. Kernels cut from 2ears 2. Meanwhile,set alarge 3. To serve, distributesucco- MAL sauté pan overmedium heat. tash among plates. Topeach VID

sweetcorn DA 1cup thinly sliced purple Addbacon and cook until helping with asalmon fillet PORK AROUND Bacon brings its own savory flavor and crunch. But cabbage evenly crisp,about 3minutes. and serve warm. if you want to keep this dish pescatarian, leave the bacon out.