Chapter 2

Textile Industry: An Overview.

2.1 Introduction:

Textile industry is one of the largest and oldest industries in . Textile industry is a self-reliant and independent industry and has great diversification and versatility. Textile industry holds a significant status in the Indian economy. Textile industry is providing one of the most basic needs of people and holds importance in maintaining sustained growth for improving quality of life.

“The textile industry enjoys pride of place in the Indian economy with record earnings of US$41.4 billion in 2014-2015; the textile industry is one among the largest foreign exchange earners for the country. It is also one of the largest employer in the country engaging over 10 crore persons directly and indirectly. Government is giving due emphasis on technology up-gradation and skill development”.1

2.2 History of Textile:

The Origin of clothing can be explained in two ways, scientific and secondly romantic.

“Scientists tell us that about ancient periods ago, when the forests were destroyed as a result of the melting and movement of ice, man who up till then were tree- dweller and a vegetarian had to come down to earth and hunt for his food. This resulted in a number of physical as well as biological changes. One was that he lost his body hair and soon the effect of climatic changes but as a born innovator, he soon overcame the problem. He killed animals, ate the flesh and used the skin to cover his body from the ill effects of the cold”.2

But according to Christian Mythology, “when eve bit into the proverbial apple, she became conscious of her nudity and even more that of Adam they must have covered themselves with fig leaves or some other handy material until Adam was able to find a more suitable substitute” .3

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It can be taken to knowledge, the textile industry was born in those days or was available but leather is treated the origin of textile. Human skin is delicate and easily got rashes by wearing rough leather. Hence man invented tanning of leather which is first textile process and was most comfortable first time in the history.

Animal skin of lion, goat and deer were used to cover body parts and it became the part of comfort and luxury.

“Women’s those wore lions skin leather was supposed to be economically financially strong. In today’s time made up of cotton material and Georgettes, , are symbol of status. A lady wearing imported nylon today might look askance at one wearing a cotton sari”.4

“In ancient time, it took thousands of years to convert tanning of leather to the arts of and , certain fibres could be spun into and then interlaced into a fabric it is supposed to be major invention of the ancient times. Wool was probably spun into yarn before cotton because spinning of cotton involves a knowledge of ginning but sheep skin was the natural clothing of nomadic man and spinning of Sheep’s wool was logically the next stage”.5

India manufactured and exported fine cotton fabrics to all nations of civilised world. As in olden days cotton was grown, spun and woven in our country itself. Indian textile was the symbol of its fineness, gracefulness and artistry in the high society of Europe. As India is leading in manufacturing and exporting cotton, this gave golden period to the craftsman of India and earning capacity was improved. People from Europe Portugal China and Greek praise many excellence of Indian fabric. Marco Polo, , Holland, France, Britain were interested in India’s trading of textile.

Indian villages were self-contained and produced everything as per their requirements. Hence they had its weavers, masons carpenters and own potters, all of them shared in prosperity of the agriculture.

Today, textile industry of India comprises of khadi, woollen, silk traditional handloom sector with primitive technology: powerloom sector which is

42 technologically improved form of the handloom sector and the composite mill sector with its advanced technology. Among all the three, the handloom sector is most scattered and spread throughout the country and is seen even in remote country side. Powerloom sector is decentralized and scattered in and around some identified centers of handloom sector. The mill sector is well organized and integrated with spinning, weaving and processing under the same roof.

“The first textile mill in the country was established at Fort Gloster near Calcutta in 1818. The cotton textile industry, however, made its real beginning in Bombay, in 1850s. The first cotton mill in Ahmadabad, which was eventually to emerge as arrival Centre to , was established in 1861. In second half of the nineteenth century there were 178 cotton textile mills. The cotton textile industry is described as Swadeshi industry, as in the pre- independence era the Swadeshi movements stimulated demand for Indian textile industry. At the time of independence, the Indian union got 409 textile mills of undivided India. Pakistan got 14 mills and 22 percent of land under cultivation. Due to these, Indian mills had to import cotton from Pakistan and other countries”.6

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2.3 Sources of Textile:

Fibres are broadly classified into natural, regenerated or synthetic. The natural fibres are vegetable, animal or mineral in origin. Also there are manufactured fibres which are produced chemically from vegetable sources or animal sources. The synthetic fibres are manufactured from petroleum or coal –tar sources.

“ can be made from many materials. These, materials come from four main sources.

1. Animal (wool, silk)

2. Plant (cotton, flax, )

3. Mineral (asbestos, glass fibre)

4. Synthetic (nylon, , acrylic)”.7

Among these fibres, cotton has established itself as the most popular fibre commanding a market share of about 50% of the world annual fibre consumption. In applications like apparel and home textiles, the share of cotton is much higher and the other fibres being wool, silk, viscose, polyester and acrylic. Accordingly, the present day textile machinery has been designed to process and convert cotton and other conventional fibres into textile products.

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2.3.1. Animal Textile:

1. Silk:

Indian animals which are having furry hair on body like lion, goat, and sheep are used in manufacturing of textile variety of cloth.

“Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silk worm.Silk is extruded by the silk worm in the form of a double filament cemented by gum. So it is the longest natural fibre the length is around 1000 meters for an unbroken filament. Silk is said ‘The Queen of Fabrics’ However, the ultimate products silk is given to us not by the plant but the silkworm out of the cocoon woven by them. It is a smooth, lustrous, elastic and fine filament, the length of which varies from cocoon to cocoon and from species to species. India stands third in the world after China and Japan. Others known for silk production are South and North Korea, Brazil, Russia, Italy, Bulgaria, Taiwan. Few countries in far East India have the distinction of producing all varieties of silk viz Mug, Eri, Mulberry and Tassar.”8

The details about production of raw silk are given below.

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Table: 2.1

Production of Raw Silk in India.

Unit: MT: Metric Tonnes.

Year Mulberry Tassar Eri Muga Total

2006-07 16,525 350 1485 115 18,475

2007-08 16,245 428 1530 117 18,320

2008-09 15,610 603 2038 119 18,370

2009-10 16,322 803 2460 105 19,690

2010-11 16,360 1166 2760 124 20,410

2011-12 18,272 1590 3072 126 23,060

2012-13 18,715 1729 3116 119 23,679

2013-14 19,476 2619 4237 148 26,480

2014-15 20,805 2323 3700 145 20,722

Source: Compiled from Central Silk Board., Ministry of Textiles , Annual Report and websites, texmin.nic.in.

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Analysis of Table

1. The above table represents, that all the four varieties of silk are produced in India. India produces more than 7% of world silk output, India feel proud in respect of silken map as it is the only country in the world which produces all types of silk. “India isthe second largest producer of silk in the world”.9 2. Among the four varieties of silk mulberry accounts for 74% and secured 1st rank and muga is 0.5% of total raw silk. 3. The production of Mulberry, Tassar and Eri are rapidly increasing. 4. However, from the year 2009-2010 it was increased by 19.32%. The average increment is 3.32% per year. 5. Eri production is showing increasing trend and it was increased by 16%. 6. The average production of Tassar was increased by 67% every year. 7. The silk production during year 2013-2014 increased by of 8.4% growth. 8. Muga silk recorded highest ever production of 148 and set a new growth record.

2. Wool:

Wool is the oldest and the most important animal fibre. In cold countries this fibre is mostly used for outer wear. Wool refers to the fibre which comes from domestic sheep because of its scaly structure and waviness, wool lends itself to matting and felting to a greater degree than any other textile fibre. No other fibre has so much affinity to dyes; even the darkest color is vibrant and clear. The wool and woollen textiles industry is a rural based, export oriented industry in which the organized sector, the decentralized sector and rural sector complement each other. Woollen industry is small in size and widely scattered. It is basically located in Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, U.P, and Gujarat states. Around 40% of the woollen units are located in Punjab, 27% in Haryana, 10% in Rajasthan, while the rest of the state’s account for remaining 23% of the units. The production of indigeneous wool is shown in Table 2.2.

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Table: 2.2

Production of Indigenous wool.

Year Production quantity (in million kg)

2008-09 42.80

2009-10 43.10

2010-11 44.00

2011-12 44.40

2012-13 46.04

2013-14 48.77

2014-15 48.14

Source: 1. Import: DGCIS, Kolkata,

Source: 2. Production-Dept. of Animal Husbandary, Ministry of Agriculture, Texmin.nic.in/sites/default/files/note_woolen_sector_wwt skbabbar_opok pg 3.

Analysis of Table

1. Production of indigenous wool tabulated in above table. India is the seventh largest producer of wool it contributes 1.8% to total production. Wool is the only natural fibre in which the country is deficient. (Lacking behind). Since the domestic produce is not adequate, the industry is dependent on imported raw material. 2. Production of indigenous wool is stable between42% to 50%.

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2.3.2. Plant Textiles:

Plant textiles such as ‘grass, rush, and are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two; only fibre from the plant isutilized’. (coconut fibres) is used in making twine, and also in floor mats, doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tilts, nod sacking. Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats straw a dried form of grass is also fibres from cotton, rice, pulpwood trees, hemp and nettle are used.

Cotton, flax, jute, hemp, modal and even bamboo fibre are all used in clothing. Pina (pineapple fibre) and are also fibres used in clothing generally with a blend of other fibres such as cotton.

Cotton, Flax, Jute

I.Cotton Textile:

Among various crops cotton is one of the principal crops of the country. In Indian economy cotton is giving good contribution related to employment generation, export earnings. It engages around 6 million farmers, while another about 40-50 million people depend on activities relating to cotton cultivation, cotton trade and its processing for their livelihood. Cotton is the principal raw material for the domestic textile industry. Cotton is called as India’s pride in the world of textile. India is the only country to produce large number of cotton varieties and hybrids. Cotton is produced in India in three zones viz, Northern zone comprising the states of Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, Central Zone comprising the states of Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat and Southern Zone comprising the states of Andhra Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu. Besides these nine states, cotton, cultivation has gained momentum in the eastern state of Orissa. In India cotton is produced on 65% of rain fed areas and 35% on irrigated lands. Indian farmers have been showing increasing inclination in bringing more and more areas under Bt cultivation, which has helped them in increasing their earnings through higher yields and lower cost on pesticides consumption.

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Every part of cotton plant is very useful. Various parts of cotton plant are brought to use like cotton flowers, leaves, roots and cotton seed. Cotton has always been associated with ancient India. Cotton contributes 65% to 70% of total cost in spinning mill and about 45 to 50% of the total cost is in a composite mill. Cotton is majorly used in apparel; they are widely used as technical textiles. This leads to tremendous increase in cotton consumption, as well as import and export.

Area, production, consumption, imports and exports of cotton is illustrated in Table 2.3.

Table: 2.3

Area, Production, Consumption, Import and Export of Cotton.

(Lakh bales of 170 kg each)

Cotton Area(lakh Production Cotton Import Export year hectare ) (lakh bales) consumption by mills

1951-52 65.56 ---- 40.71 12.40 2.00

1961-62 79.78 --- 56.88 8.71 3.29

1971-72 77.99 --- 63.59 7.67 2.04

1980-81 78.23 78.00 76.78 -- 6.97

1990-91 73.95 117.00 107.57 -- 11.90

1995-96 90.63 170.70 138.29 0.50 8.00

1996-97 91.22 177.70 150.41 0.30 16.82

1997-98 89.04 158.00 143.24 4.13 3.50

1998-99 93.87 165.00 145.53 7.87 1.01

1999-00 87.31 156.00 150.60 22.01 0.65

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2000-01 85.76 140.00 149.36 22.13 0.60

2001-02 87.30 158.00 147.00 25.26 0.50

2002-03 76.67 136.00 142.42 17.67 0.84

2003-04 76.30 179.00 150.39 7.21 12.11

2004-05 87.86 243.00 163.98 12.18 9.14

2005-06 86.77 241.00 180.10 5.01 47.00

2006-07 91.44 280.00 194.91 5.54 58.00

2007-08 94.14 307.00 195.67 6.38 88.50

2008-09 94.06 290.00 190.00 10.00 35.00

2009-10 103.10 305.00 219.00 6.00 83.00

2010-11 112.35 339.00 221.77 2.38 76.50

2011-12 121.78 367.00 223.59 7.51 129.57

2012-13 117.73 365.00 250.14 14.59 101.43

Source: Ministry of Agriculture.

Note: DOCD- Directorate of cotton Development, CAB-Cotton Advisory Board.

Analysis of Table

Area production, consumption, imports and export of cotton is depicted in the above table.

1. The land area of cotton growing and production are increasing at a very faster rate. During year 2003-04 to 2012-13 decade, area under cultivation of cotton was increased by 53.74% and per year average rate of increment was 5.37%. 2. The development of Bt cotton in India has made the country become one of the net exporters of cotton from a net importer of cotton. The 51

proportion of import and export is always uneven upto the year 2004- 2005, import was always more than export, excluding the decade 1980- 81 to 1990-91. 3. The proportion of exports always more than imports from 2005-06 to 2012-13. During this period, export was increased by 115.80% and per year increment rate was 14.48%.

II. Flax:It is a bast fibre found in the stem of the plant. Flax is having outstanding quality of toughness, it is having lustre and resiliency and also it is having smoothness. Due to this quality of flax in many parts of the world it is preferred as fibre. The plant is cultivated in cold and humid condition. So the plantation is centred in cold countries the countries which have flax growing areas are north Ireland, Egypt, Japan, Brazil, USA, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. These fibres are used for household clothing fabrics, , threads, papermaking and certain industrial application like houses.

III. Jute: Jute is one of the most important crops of the world. Most of the production is from Bangladesh. India is following closely. Jute is essentially a rainy season crop. Jute industry occupies an important place in a national economy. It is one of the major industries in the eastern region, particularly in West Bengal. Jute, the golden fibre meets all the standards for “safe” packaging in view of being a natural, renewable, and biodegradable and an eco-friendly product. As a natural fibre, it is finding greater acceptance as an environment friendly product. Globally, India is the largest producer and second larger exporter of jute goods.

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2.3.3 Mineral Textiles:

Asbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles,sheeting and adhesives “transite” panels and siding acoustica; ceilings,stage curtains and blankets.

Glass fibre is used in the production of spacesuits,ironing board and mattress covers ropes and cables ,reinforcement fibre for composite material s insect netting,flame-retardant and protective fabric, sound proof, fireproof and insulating fibres.In the production of jewellery metal fibre, metal foil,metal wire have a variety of uses. In construction field hardware cloth is a coarse weave of steel wire brought in use.

2.3.4Synthetic Textiles:

In the primary production of clothing synthetic textiles are used .Polyester fibre is used. In all types of clothing aramid fibre is used for flame –retardant clothing cut -protection and armor.

Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate , including cashmere.

Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk. Thicker nylon fibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing lycra is a polyurethane product that can be made tight fitting without impending movements.

Olefin fibre is a fibre used in active wear and warm clothing. Milk proteins have also been used to create synthetic fabric .Milk or casein fibre cloth was developed during world war one in German and further developed in Italy and America during the 1930s.Milk fibre fabric is not very durable and wrinkles easily ,but has a pH similar to human skin and possess anti bacterial properties. Among this entire textiles types plant textile i.e cotton plays important role in textiles industry as agriculture is main occupation of people of India cultivating of cotton helps textile to grow.

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2.4Powerloom and Handloom:

The Indian textile industry today comprises of the large scale, well established and well organised mill sector on the one hand and the largely dispersed and unorganised handloom and powerloom sector on the other hand with the passage of time there was need of more innovations, specialisation and localization with reference to the nature and composition of the fabric produced and its aesthetic appeal in terms of choice of raw materials, patterns and designs, woven texture of the fabric colours combinations, and such other factors. Hence, during post-independence period Government of India appointed many committees to study various aspects of textile industry. Some research studies have been made in states like Maharashtra, Gujarat, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. These studies are related to Handloom and Powerloom sectors. Both the sectors are different but they are necessary to make the prospects of textile industry in India. The Powerloom sector, it is of comparatively recent origin. The household Powerloom units are located mostly in semi-urban and rural areas since 1950s the capacity in the Powerloom sector increased substantially year after to the requirement of the people.

Weaving is one of the most ancient handicrafts patronized all over the world and at all times like food and shelter clothing is also a basic need of every human being. To examine how the handloom sector has developed over the years and to see how far it is meeting the threads of globalization a study of Handloom and Powerloom sector has been undertaken.

2.4.1 Powerloom:

In 20th century, handloom was converted into power looms; there has been a considerable development in mechanical devices of weaving operations. Several new types of looms have come to use, whereas older have been refined and their scope extended. In 1774 A.D Kentish Clergyman Edmund Cat right first invented powerloom. After about six decades it was Joseph Harison who introduced improved Powerloom which gave foundation for modern textile mills.

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“The decentralized powerloom sector is one of the most important segments of textile industry in terms of fabric production and employment generation. It provides employment to 61.72 lac persons and contributes 60% of total cloth production in country. 60% of fabrics produced in the powerloom sector are of man-made. More than 60% of fabric meant for export is also sourced from powerloom sector. The readymade garments and home textiles sectors are heavily dependent on the powerloom sector to meet their fabric requirement”.10

There has been significant up gradation in technology level of powerloom sector during the last 7-8 years.

In India, Maharashtra state is the largest powerloom fabric manufacturer in the country. There are about seven lakh powerlooms present in the decentralizedsector of Maharashtra. Seven major textile center’s of India rich in looms are Bhiwandi, Surat, Salem, , Sholapur, Malegaon and Bhuranpur.

2.4.2 Handloom:

“Handloom weaving is one of the largest economic activities after agriculture providing direct and indirect employment to more than 45 lac weavers and allied workers. This sector contributes nearby 15% of the cloth production in the country and also contributes to the export earning to the country. 95% of the world’s hand woven fabrics come from India. The sector has a unique place in our economy. It has been sustained by transferring skills from one generation to another. The strength of the sector lies in its uniqueness, flexibility of production, openness to innovation adaptability to the supplier’s requirement and wealth of its tradition.”11

“Handloom forms a precious part of generational legacy and exemplifies the richness and diversity of our country and the artistry of the weavers. Tradition of weaving by hand is a part of the country’s cultural ethos. As an economic activity, handloom is the 2nd largest employment provider next only to agriculture. The sector with 60.40% about 35 lakh handlooms provides

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employment to 65 lakh persons of which 60.40% are women and 35% belong to scheduled castes and scheduled tribes”.12 It is estimated that today there are about 4.60 million handlooms in the world out of which about 3.9 million are in India. While the major producers are India followed by Bangladesh, Pakistan and Nepal, the main importers of textiles and clothing were the USA, UK, France and Italy.

In India handloom is supposed to be the traditional means manufacture which reflected the country’s cultural identities and traditional values. Therefore, selling handloom textiles was selling the heritage and culture of a country. Handloom industry would therefore be viewed in a large perspective. Handloom weaving unfolded the artistic genius of the Indian weaver not only colour scheme, but also in floral designs geometry, texture and durability. The Indian weaver not only weaves with yarn, but he weaves with intense feeling and emotion. The tradition of handlooms is so strong that the entire country is dotted with places famous for some or the other handloom product. Handloom products have been a major part of export basket of the country Made-Up, , sari and furnishing have been the major contributors to the handloom exports basket. Furthermore the majority of these exports have been to Europe, USA others Asian countries. The government of India has been the policy of promoting and encouraging the handloom sector through a number of policies and programs. Most of the schematic interventions of the government of India in the earlier plan periods have been through the state agencies and co-operatives in the handloom sector. However, in the face of growing competitiveness in the textile industry both in the national and international markets and the free trade a growing need has been felt for adopting a focused yet flexible and holistic approach in the sector to facilitate handloom weavers to meet the challenges of a globalized environment.

2.4.2.1Handloom mark:

Handloom mark is launched by Dr. Manmohan Singh; Hon’ble Prime Minister of India on June 28, 2006 has been a huge success. This serves as a guarantee for the buyer that the product being purchased is genuinely hand

56 woven and not a powerloom a mill made product by this handloom mark, a ‘Brand Identity’ will be established in India as well as abroad.

2.4.2.2 Khadi:

One can’t think of textile industry of India without mentioning about Khadi handlooms. Khadi is a hand –woven cotton fabric made from hand spun yarn from natural fibres like cotton, silk and woollen. Khadi derives its distinctiveness from a single process: hand-spinning. The pure cotton collected from farms are first ginned and made into rolls of bales of 160 -175 kgs. These bales are then converted into roving. The roving thus obtained is distributed to different spinning units. In the spinning units, the cotton fibre is converted into manually by using charkhas. The yarns are then woven into fabrics using handlooms. It is the processing of cotton fibre into yarn by human hands that has endowed the fabric with its multiple guises and varied appeal. Hand spinning lends Khadi its defining material character. Hand –spun cotton yarns when woven by hand yield, at their best, a cloth whose comfort level unsurpassed. Since Khadi deals in natural fibre that is cotton, silk and wool only, spun and woven in natural environment, it can boast of being 100% natural. But polyester -Khadi is also available which is made from the blend of cotton and polyester yarns. The various Khadi fabrics available are cotton Khadi fabrics, silk Khadi fabrics, and woollen Khadi fabrics poly Khadi fabrics. Production of khadi cloth is shown in Table 2.4

Table: 2.4

Production of Khadi Cloth.

(Lakh sq.mtr)

Year Khadi

Cotton Woollen Silk Total

1992-93 903.50 108.50 51.00 37.00 1100.00

1993-94 808.18 92.28 53.83 29.98 984.27

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1994-95 738.00 82.70 57.70 30.00 908.40

1995-96 849.70 95.80 70.30 35.20 1,051.00

1996-97 890.880 109.90 79.40 34.80 1114.90

1997-98 842.40 98.60 68.80 32.20 1042.00

1998-99 791.20 98.10 68.30 24.40 982.00

1999-00 675.20 87.20 58.40 22.40 843.20

2000-01 527.80 73.60 73.10 15.66 693.90

2001-02 590.30 65.33 35.60 15.30 588.93

2002-03 586.50 71.50 50.20 - 620.30

2003-04 600.84 53.90 54.20 - 686.90

2004-05 636.90 64.20 44.40 - 698.90

2005-06 673.30 64.00 48.90 - 699.40

2006-07 680.70 68.60 49.30 - 718.74

2007-08 705.00 71.92 53.66 - 762.48

2008-09 728.50 81.90 56.60 - 811.80

2009-10 748.30 84.20 66.00 --- 830.90

2010-11 705.00 86.30 68.20 - 859.50

2011-12 728.50 88.90 69.90 - 887.30

2012-13 748.30 90.50 71.00 - 909.80

Note: From 2003-04 onwards production of Muslin Khadi Cloth is included in Cotton Khadi Cloth.

Source: Khadi and Village Industries Commission.

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Analysis of Table

Production of Khadi cloth in India is shown in above table.

1. This table illustrates the production of cotton, woollen, silk and muslin. The trend is fluctuating. However, from 2001-02 total production of Khadi cloth was increased by 54.58%. Average growth rate was 4.54%. 2. In case of silk, the production was lowest in the year 2001-2002.But now it is increasing and exceeds the level of the year 1992-93.

2.5 Production of Cloth:

One of the basic necessities of life that is cloth is produced by textile industry. The share of cloth produced by mill, handloom and decentralised powerloom and decentralised hosiery sector in total cloth production in textile industry is shown in the Table below.

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Table: 2.5 Sector- Wise Production of Cloth in India (In million sq.mtr)

Year Mill Handloom Powerloom Hosiery Total Textile Cloth Production 2000-01 1670 7506 23803 6180 39159

2001-02 1521 6868 24590 6981 39960

2002-03 1475 6210 25862 7547 41094

2003-04 1434 5493 26947 7847 41721

2004-05 1526 5722 28325 9112 44685

2005-06 1656 6108 30626 10418 48808

2006-07 1746 6536 32879 11504 52665

2007-08 1781 6947 34725 11804 55257

2008-09 1796 6677 33648 12077 54198

2009-10 1961 6806 36997 13702 59466

2010-11 1130 6949 37929 14646 60654

2011-12 1339 4068 21454 7232 34093

Source-Ministry of textiles GOI Annual Report 2011-12, 2009-10.

Analysis of Table

1. Handloom production is 75% more than mill production. 2. Total textile cloth production is not showing increasing trend. The total production was highest in the year 2007-08.

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3. The production from powerloom sector is more than others in the year 2011-12 the share of powerloom sector was 62.93%. Mill production was only 3.93%.

2.6 Textile Industry in India:

“The textile industry in India traditionally, after agriculture is only industry that has generated huge employment for both skilled and unskilled labour in textile”.13

In India, textile industry is spread over 15 states in the country. Powerloom product specialization is major industries. The details are given below

Following are the location, state and product specialization of India:

Table: 2.6 Indian Textile Cluster

Cluster Location State Product Specialization

Guntur Andhra Pradesh Power loom and cotton ginning.

Nagari Andhra Pradesh Power loom

Narsapur Andhra Pradesh Crochet lace

Pochampally Andhra Pradesh Tie and

Anantpur Andhra Pradesh Jeans/RMG

Sirsiila Andhra Pradesh Power loom

Warangal Andhra Pradesh Power loom

Delhi Delhi RMG/hosiery

Ahmedabad Gujarat RMG

Jatpur(Rajkot) Gujarat

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Gandhinagar Gujarat Power loom

Surat Gujarat Power loom

Vijapur Gujarat Weaving

Bhiwani Haryana Power loom

Gurgaon Haryana RMG

Panipat Haryana Power loom

Banglore Karnataka RMG

Belgaum Karnataka Power loom

Bellary Karnataka Jeans

Gadag Karnataka Power loom

Mysore Karnataka Silk

Ernakulam Kerala Power loom

Faizlure Kerala Power loom

Kannur Kerala Handloom

Mallappuram Kerala Power loom

Palakkad Kerala Power loom

Burhanpur Madhya Power loom Pradesh

Chandeeri Madhya Handloom Pradesh

Indore Madhya RMG Pradesh

Jabalpur Madhya RMG/Power loom

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Pradesh

Maheshwar Madhya Handloom Pradesh

Ujjain Madhya Power loom Pradesh

Bhiwandi Maharashtra Power loom

Ichalkaranji Maharashtra Power loom

Madhavnagrar Maharashtra Power loom

Malagaon Maharashtra Power loom

Mumbai Maharashtra RMG/Hosiery

Nagpur Maharashtra Powerloom,RMG

Pune Maharashtra RMG

Solapur Maharashtra Power loom

Balasore Orissa Power loom

Dhenkanal Orissa Power loom

Ganjam Orissa Power loom

Nauapatna Orissa Tussar silk

Amritsar Punjab Power loom

Ludhiana Punjab Woollen knitwear

Jaipur Rajasthan Garments

Jodhpur Rajasthan Hand processing

Kishangarh Rajasthan Power loom

Sanganner and bagru Rajasthan Hand block printing

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Bhavani and chennimalai Tamil Nadu Home textiles

Karur Tamil Nadu Home textiles

Madurai Tamil Nadu Tie and dye ,ha printing

Rajapalyam Tamil Nadu Surgical textiles

Salem Tamil Nadu Power loom

Surampatti Tamil Nadu Power loom

Tirupur Tamil Nadu Knitwear/hosiery

Agartala Tripura Handloom and loin looms

Banda Uttar Pradesh Power loom

Gorakhpur Uttar Pradesh Power loom

Jhansi Uttar Pradesh Power loom

Kanpur Uttar Pradesh Hosiery

Lucknow Uttar Pradesh Chikan embroidery

Mau Uttar Pradesh Power loom

Noida Uttar Pradesh RMG

Varnasi Uttar Pradesh Power loom

Kolkata West Bengal Hosiery/RMG

Ranaghat West Bengal Power loom

Source: D&B Research, UNIDO, SIDO. source:www.yieldopedia.com/paneladmin/reports

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Analysis of Table

1. In India the major states were textile has developed are Maharashtra, Tamilnadu, Karnataka, Gujarat, Andhrapradesh, U.P, M.P, Punjab, Rajasthan, Karnataka and Haryana. 2. The textile industry continues to be the second largest employment generating sector in India. It offers direct employment to over 35 million in the country. 3. Considering the states of India, Maharashtra and Uttarpradesh are having the highest number of textile centres that is 8 or 12% overall Andhra Pradesh and Tamilnadu both have seven centres that is 10% overall. Madhya Pradesh has six centres that is 9% overall and Kerala, Karnataka and Gujarat have five centres that is 7.7% overall. Rajasthan and Orissa have four centres that are 6% while Haryana has three centres that are 4.5%. West Bengal and Punjab both has two centres (that is 3%) while Delhi and Tripura both has only one centre (that is 1.5%). To conclude, it can be said that growth of power looms in India is very high.

2.7 Strengths of Indian Textile Industry:

India has got abundant quality of raw material. India is the largest producers of the cotton yarn around the globe and also there are good resources of fibres like polyester, silk, viscose.

 India has great competitiveness in spinning sector and has presence in almost all processes of the value chain.  India is having highly trained manpower in both, technical and management level. Due to low wage rates, country is having many advantages. As there is low wage rate, the manufacturing or the production cost in textile sector automatically comes down to very reasonable rates.  In India there is wide range of cotton fibre available, and has a rapidly developing synthetic fibre industry.

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 The installed capacity of spindles in India contributes for 24% share of the world, and it is one of the biggest exporters of yarns in the global market. Having modern functions and favourable fiscal policies, it accounts about 25% of the world trade in cotton yarn.  The apparel industry is largest foreign exchange earning sector contributing 12% of the country’s total exports.

2.8 Weaknesses of Indian Textile Industry:

The structure of Indian textile industry is highly fragmented and is having many small scale companies. Since most of the companies are small in size, the examples of industry leadership are very few, which can be inspirational model for the rest of the industry.

 In case of small companies, they do not have the fiscal resources to enhance technology or invest in the high-end engineering of processes’. The skilled labour is cheap in absolute manner. However, most of this benefit is lost by small companies.  Indian labour laws are relatively unfavourable to the trades and there is an urgent need for labour reforms in India.  The uneven supply base also leads barriers in attaining integration between the lines in supply chain. This issue create uncontrollable, unreliable and inconsistent performance.  Indian textile industry is highly dependent on cotton.

2.9 Indian Textile Exports: “Today the textile industry of India contributes around 14% to industrial production: employs 35 million people and accounts for nearly 12% share of the country’s total exports basket”.14 Indian textiles and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of national economy. It is also one of the largest contributing sectors of India’s exports worldwide.

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“The export market includes both the traditional goods as well as fashionable goods. In India cotton and cotton products accounts for 70% of the total production and include manmade fibre, silk wool, and jute.”15 Indian textile exporters face stiff competition from low cost suppliers like Bangladesh, China and Pakistan. In addition, Indian textile exports have also faced anti-dumping and other non-tariff barriers from importing countries. Indian textiles exports and imports are shown in Table 2.7.

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Table: 2.7

Indian TextilesExports and Imports

MillionUS$

Year Exports Imports

1998-99 9848.2 851.14

1999-00 10521.28 1128.59

2000-01 12014.4 1172.4

2001-02 10801 1537.1

2002-03 12444.9 1645.47

2003-04 13532.04 2021.96

2004-05 14461.72 2239.4

2005-06 17112.62 2678.94

2006-07 21115.31 2881.85

2007-08 22146.78 3326.46

2008-09 21226.34 3561.87

2009-10 22418.79 3436.26

2010-11 27747.98 4179.41

2011-12 33310.21 5191.44

2012-13 35315.48 6301

Source: www.texmin.mic.in

Source: compendium of textile statistics 2006-07 exports including jute, coir handicraft

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Analysis of Table

Export from textile industry was continuously increased from 1998-99 (excluding the year 2001-02) to 2013-14. Average rate of export growth during the above 15 years was 14.24%.

1. Export rate from last 10 years was slightly higher than 1998-99 to 2003- 04. Average increment rate was 17.58% from 2004-05 to 2013-14. 2. Although there has been a commendable growth in the export of textiles, the exporters are confronted with many hurdles.It includes low productivity of cotton. Cultivation has resulted in inadequate supply of raw cotton in the domestic market. This affected the potential of yarn export. 3. Exported yarn is characterized by poor quality ,particularly in the case of long staple filament .since ginning is not carried out properly ,the long staple filament gets mixed with short –staple filament resulting in poor quality. 4. The textile industry manufacturing units in India (medium and small size) are operating with out-dated machinery, which has adversely affected quality and cost competitiveness. 5. As there are several sectors in textile they all are competing with each other in character though one sector is depending on other sector. 6. Owing to strong passion for branded textile products in the international market, the Indian manufacturers have to establish tie-up with the manufacturer of internationally reputed brands. This causes extra load on selling cost, which has ultimate affected price competitiveness. It is by above points that Indian textile export has to march ahead in terms of quality, price competitiveness and value addition.

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Conclusion:

The chapter explains about the history of textile.

1) In India all the four varieties of silk are produced. 2) India is the 7th largest producer of wool. 3) The development of Bt cotton in India made the country become one of the net exporters of cotton from net importer of cotton. 4) In India, Maharashtra is the largest Powerloom fabric manufacturer in the country contributing to around 40%. 5) In Maharashtra Powerloom industry is the biggest small scale industry. 6) In India, handloom is supposed to be traditional means of manufacturer. 7) All three sectors powerloom, handloom and hosiery are showing remarkable progress in production of cloth. 8) Globalisation means adoption of market friendly approach there by making the economy more open rather than close. 9) India’s textile exports may grow to US$24 billion with the support of government.

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References:

1. “Shri V.Y. Tamhane” editorial advisor “Textile Value Chain” Vol 3 issue 6 June 2015 p.2 2. “Kasturi Shreenivasan”.-“India’s Textile Industry” (A Socio-Economic Analysis) published by The South India Textile Research Association Coimbatore- 641014 March 1984, p.1. 3. Ibid. p.2. 4. Ibid p.2. 5. Shrinivasan K.“India’s Textile Industry”(A Socio-Economic Analysis) published by SITRA, Coimbatore- 641014 March 1984, p.2. 6. (http://www.fibre2fashion.com) 7. “Anita Tyagi”-“Interior Textiles” Sonali Publications New Delhi- 110002 Ansari Road 422811, 2011, p.15. 8. “G.K.Ghosh, Shukla Ghosh”-“Indian Textiles” APH. Publishing Corporation Delhi-110002, 5 Ansari road, Darya Ganj New Delhi. p.95,p.50. 9. Ministry of Textiles Annual Report 2015. p.11. 10. (www.textmin.nic.in), Ministry of Textiles, Annual report 2015-2016 p.85. 11. (www.texmin.nic) 12. Ministry of Textiles Annual Report 2009-10, p.127. 13. http://en.wikipedia.org 14. Ministry of Textiles Annual Report 2009-10, p.45. 15. Chavan R.B, “Indian Textile Industry” Environmental issues, Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, Vol 26, March-June 2001, p.11. 16. www.texmin.mic.in 17. www.kivc.org.in 18. www.textilereview.com, 19. Ministry of Textiles,Annual Report 2009-10p.45. 20. Ministry of Textiles,Annual Report 2004-2005 21. Ministry of Textiles, Annual Report 2006-07 p.45. 22. Ministry of Textiles, Annual Report 2008-09 p.41.

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