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Lonely Planet Magazine India Lonely Planet Magazine India 5 EASY TRIPS ACTIVE BREAK India Theyyam performances are just as eerie as they are captivating 1Bekal, Nileshwar & Kannur with Muddy Boots, Kerala Magazine FUN IN THE SUN Boots includes, as part of its families, and each is dedicated When you’ve had your fill Banana chips, coconuts and itinerary, fair amounts to a different god or goddess. of spirituality, head a little south relatives in the Gulf – that’s of cycling and kayaking, which If you visit between January to Nileshwar. The backwaters Kerala to a lot of people. But makes for a fun and different and March, you may be able to and deltas here are outstanding, it’s also a place where beaming way to explore the backwaters. catch a theyyam performance. and if your lungs can manage faces welcome you as if you A decent level of fitness is This ritual dance is a big affair it, hop on to a bicycle to explore were an old friend, and strangers essential, though. in the small towns of northern them. Cycle through coconut invite you into their homes Start off in Bekal. Close to Kerala. The elaborately-dressed groves and past streams and Planet to drink payasam. Yep, Kerala’s Kerala’s border with Karnataka, dancer, whose face is painted beaches. En route, you may got charm, especially once this town has lots of temples, all in the brightest oranges and even get off and take a dip you side-step the busier of which are worth visiting. The reds, parades about the temple, in the sea. You will be tanned south and head up north. And key-hole-shaped Bekal Fort is reciting mantras and telling beyond recognition and your a great way to explore it is with one of the largest in Kerala, and stories. Supposedly possessed rear will definitely need some Muddy Boots, which organises has some great stories attached by the patron god/ goddess TLC by the end of it, but the trip active trips in South India. to it (Pallikere, 16km south-east of the temple, he’s at liberty will be unforgettable. Though this is a route you of Kasargod; 8am-5pm; ` 5). to impart divine advice to This is also where you can can follow on your own, Muddy Bekal’s temples are owned by those who seek it. hone (or learn) your kayaking Lonely Planet Magazine India Lonely 028-029-Muddy Boots Kerala-MISHRA_R1.indd 33 3/20/12 3:34 PM 1 2 3 4 1. Cycling provides a novel perspective of Kerala’s famed backwaters 2. Gitanjali Heritage in Bekal gives you an authentic Kerala experience 3. The Malabar Ocean Front Resort and Spa in Nileshwar dishes out a mean seafood platter 4. Key-hole-shaped Bekal Fort looks out over lush coconut plantations India and the sparkling Arabian Sea Magazine Tick the adventure activities some of the 300-plus varieties in Kozhikode, where you should GREAT FROM off your list and head further of theyyam performances make a beeline for the shipyard Bangalore south to Kannur, where you (00-91-497-2778090; kerala there. The ships built at this will find a good dose of culture. folkloreakademy.com; Chirakkal boatyard are gargantuan, GREAT FOR The Arakkal Museum has Post; 10am-5.30pm; ` 10 adult, and are quite fantastic to see. An activity-based holiday some interesting artefacts ` 2 child). Visit the Fort St But that’s just how it is in with a dash of culture belonging to the Arakkal family, Angelo, the first European fort Kerala. It’s the kind of place that the only Muslim royal family in India, for a history lesson can make you feel like a visitor Planet GO NOW in Kerala (00-91-497-2734479; from Sathyam Edakkara, a in your own country, by gently For a chance to witness Kannur; 10am-5.30pm Tues-Sat; tourist policeman and guide. proving your ignorance, but a theyyam performance. ` 10 adult, ` 5 child). The The laterite fort still contains then again, it’s the kind of place Chirakkal Museum of Folk some of the cannons brought you wish you could call your skills. Slop on sunscreen and Art has a staggering array here by the Portuguese and is own, simply to stake a claim strap on a life jacket before of theyyam-related articles known for its sheer magnitude to its magnificent beauty. paddling down streams, on display, including close to (00-91-497-2732578; Kannur; waving to the fisherman you 50 painted busts, each with 8am-6pm; entry free). WORDS SHARMEEN HUSSAIN pass along the way. different patterns – examples of The trip wraps up at Beypore PHOTOGRAPHS JEREMIAH CHRISTANAND RAO Lonely Planet Magazine India Lonely TURN OVER FOR ALL YOU NEED TO GET THERE 028-029-Muddy Boots Kerala-MISHRA_R1.indd 34 3/20/12 3:34 PM 5 EASY TRIPS BEKAL, NILESHWAR & KANNUR WITH MUDDY BOOTS, KERALA Kayaking down things about Chera Rocks FACT SHEET the backwaters Beach Resort is that it serves GETTING THERE is fun, but it’s fresh, delicious food on your quite a workout! Closest metro: Bangalore verandah. The fish curry and (370km) mussel dumplings are worth Closest city: Mangalore a try (see Where to Stay; meals (65km) included in tariff). To try an Closest airport: Mangalore authentic Kerala thali, visit Sree Airport (77km). Kingfisher Red, Gokulam Nalanda Resorts. Jet Konnect and Jet Lite fly from A side order of fish curry goes Bangalore, and flights start at well with the food (00-91-467- ` 2,950. It takes about two-and- 2282662; nalandaresort.com; a-half hours to reach Bekal. NH 17 Junction, Nileshwar, Depart from Kozhikode Airport. Kasargod; thali ` 110). Several domestic airlines fly from Kohzikode via Mumbai WHAT TO PACK and Kochi with flights starting Strong sunscreen and at ` 4,450. plenty of band-aids – the Closest railhead: Kasaragod friction from continuous cycling (KGQ: 15km) is closest to Bekal. may cause the skin on your The 16517 Kannur Express thumbs to peel. Take long- (leaves Bangalore City Junction sleeved T-shirts and track pants [SBC] daily 8.55pm, arrives KGQ as well as a pair of quick-dry 9.49am; ` 629 3AC) is a good pants/ shorts for kayaking. option. On your way back from Carry a cap, sunglasses as well Kozhikode, try the 16528 as sturdy sports shoes, a Yesvantpur Express (leaves swimsuit and insect repellant. Kozhikode [CLT] daily 8.05pm, arrives Yesvantpur Junction CLEAN LOO GUDE [YPR] 7.15am; ` 636 3AC). There are clean (paid) loos at the two forts and GETTING AROUND at most restaurants on this We used and liked Muddy route. When you’re biking or Boots (00-91-9544201249; kayaking, your options are few, India muddyboots.in; ‘Samasthi’, so go before you leave and 1679, 23 Cross, 27 Main, wherever you stop for lunch. Sector 2, HSR Layout, Bangalore; ` 24,750 for two SAFETY for the four night, five-day It’s safe to walk about during itinerary for stay, meals, the day; most roads in the guide, cycling and kayaking smaller towns are not well-lit equipment and return train and fairly deserted by night. tickets to Nilshewar from If you’re staying at a beach-side Mangalore/ Kozhikode). resort, always confirm whether the water is safe to swim in, and avoid swimming at night. WHERE TO STAY bathrooms add an interesting Kannur; from ` 2,800 with all Gitanjali Heritage: touch. Most rooms open out meals for two and pick-up). MEDICAL AIDMagazine This 65-year old heritage onto the beach, adding to the Carry personal homestay, run by Mr Jagannath charm (00-91-467-2288317; WHAT TO EAT medication and a first-aid and family, offers a real taste malabarresort.com; The food at Gitanjali kit. Padma Polyclinic of Kerala. Choose from three Ozhinhavalappu PO, Nileshwar, Heritage is wholesome, in Kanhangad is well-equipped to handsome wooden rooms, and Kasargod; from ` 10,000). and is the best way to sample deal with most illnesses (00-91- enjoy the lush green surrounds homemade food in Kerala. 467-2206769; North Kottachery). and the family’s own cocount Chera Rocks Beach Resort: The chicken curry and fresh and areca nut tree plantation. The trek down the side of rotis are a delight (see Where CHILD-FRIENDLINESS Planet A pick-up and drop-off facility a muddy slope to reach the to Stay). The fare at the The activities are child-friendly is provided (00-91-467-2234159; beach-front rooms is worth restaurant at Malabar Ocean and cater to whole families. Be gitanjaliheritage.com; Panayal it here. These simple but Front Resort and Spa is great. careful on the beaches, though. PO, Bekal; ` 4,500). comfortable cottages are There’s plenty to choose from, located on the beach so you’ll including a wide variety of fresh GOOD TO KNOW Malabar Ocean Front Resort never be too far from the water seafood. The seafood platter Women aren’t permitted and Spa: The well-appointed (00-91-490-2343211; cherarocks. and king prawns are particularly within the central courtyard rooms here are comfortable com; Chera Kalle, Thayeechery, good (see Where to Stay; mains of some temples. Please check and neat and the open-air Kizunna Ezhara Beach, Thottada, from ` 300). One of the best before entering. V MADAN NEHA MAP: Lonely Planet Magazine India Lonely 028-029-Muddy Boots Kerala-MISHRA_R1.indd 35 3/20/12 3:34 PM.
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