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~~1110_PWM_c1_Cover_US.indd1110_PWM_c1_Cover_US.indd C1C1 77/13/11/13/11 10:35:0310:35:03 AMAM Try for Your Best Work

BY JOHN ECONOMAKI

Make the square that launched Bridge City with found in most home shops.

rom 1977-1983 I made my living as a studio furniture designer and Fmaker. In addit ion to making fur- niture, I found most of the hand tools available at the time so uninspiring and inconsistent with the craftsmanship value s I was t r y ing to impart in my fur- niture, that I made my own. The roots of my personal “home- made” try square, however, go back to the fall of 1973 and my fi rst days as a rookie woodshop teacher. Amongst the supplies ordered by my predecessor were a dozen Stanley try squares. Sev- eral of them were so visibly off I remem- ber asking myself, “What do you call a square that is not square?” The answer I like best today: can opener. Consequently, the fi rst project for my 9th-grade students was pragmatic – they Student work. These beautiful try squares were made by John Economaki’s tool-making class at were to make their own try squares. The the Marc Adams School of . design was centered on available materi- als – a local veneer mill had donated all its solid Brazilian shorts to Later in the fall, a vice principal asked Nobody could believe such quality and the school, and the adjacent metal shop me if we had any projects to represent beauty could be accomplished in a “shop had brass strips sitting around. So those the Industrial Arts program for Back- class.” It was an awesome experience became the materials for the square. The to-School-Night. I asked for a student for the kids and enrollment in the pro- design was quickly revealed as fl awed; volunteer and about 20 students enthu- gram took off overnight. Quality work too many students were splitting the siastically responded with polished try became the theme of all subsequent handles while seating the rivets. My squares. We arranged them in an arc on projects. original design was modifi ed to add a a glass shelf in the display case in the brass rivet seat, and that did the trick. main hall. Beside each square was the Little did I know that 10 years later, in maker’s name. 1983, that exact square would launch a That little display completely “Everything’s a kit.” new company named Bridge City Tool gobsmacked the parents, students, most — Michael Burns, instructor Works. of the faculty and the administrators.

28 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2011 LEAD PHOTO BY AL PARRISH (TOOLS MADE BY BOB KING, DANTE DIIANNI, MASOOD GAR AHI, BOB KINK & SAM PR ATHER); STEP PHOTOS BY AJAX ALEXANDRE; ILLUSTR ATION BY ROBERT W. LANG

11110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd 2828 77/21/11/21/11 3:44:543:44:54 PMPM Teacher, Maker, Toolmaker of the major mail-order companies at able to share how to make it with you. I quit my teaching job in 1978 and the time were adamant that Ameri- During the past four decades we have became a full-time furniture designer cans would not pay for quality. Conse- produced tens of thousands of TS-2 and maker. In the late 1970s I had a quently, the TS-2 Master Try Square and try squares and it is my hope you can “lunch hunch” t hat a couple of t he tools the SA-2 Scratch Awl were introduced find the time and inspiration to cre- I had designed and made would be of to the woodworking community in the ate a version for your shop. I believe it interest to others – visitors to my shop November/December 1983 issue of Fine is one of the most rewarding weekend almost always commented on them. So, Woodworking. I had spent every penny project s you w ill ever make and w ith a in the summer months when my shop in the bank on that ad to fi nd out that little care, will become an heirloom that was unbearably hot, I would do small the mail-order companies were only will inspire future woodworkers in your runs of my try square and a scratch awl, partly correct. family for multiple generations. and place them on consignment at the There is an elegance and soul to the Contemporary Crafts Gallery in Port- TS-2 try square, and I am thrilled to be Design Philosophy land, Ore. It was nice to get a check in A try square is a simple tool that is can- the mail every now and then. didly two “straight edges” affi xed at 90° Unfortunately, I took better care of to each other. And when both compo- my tools than I did of my body. I rarely nents are parallel, both the inside sur- wore a dust mask, and in early 1983 I faces of the square and the outside edges woke up with double pneumonia and can be used as references. In addition, was informed that it was caused by a the inside square and the outside square hyper-allergic reaction to dust. are perfectly offset from each other, My days as a furniture maker were over which means you can use the inside of – as in overnight. the handle as a reference and scribe a I thought high-quality tools might line using either the inside or outside be of interest to woodworkers but all of the blade. Few woodworkers under- stand that a traditional wooden-handled try square (where just the inside face of the handle is brass) is an inside square only. You use the outside square at your own risk.

EXPLODED VIEW

Rout the . After the handle stock 1 is prepped to 1.5" wide x .625" thick, rout the .0625"-deep rivet seat grooves on the 1 router table using a ⁄4" straight bit. (Toolmak- ers always work in decimal inches.)

Two at a time. Note the orientation of 4 the brass wear face and the rivet seats in this image. It is diffi cult to fi nd 1⁄16" x 1⁄4" 360 brass, but 1⁄4" x 1⁄4" is readily available. This can be benefi cial when making more than one handle at a time. Multiple handles can share a length of 1⁄4" x 1⁄4" brass and be separated on a band with a metal-cutting blade. After Glue in the brass. need to sawing, both faces of the handle need to be 3 be wiped with acetone to remove the fl ush sanded on either a horizontal or vertical surface oils. Contact cement is a good fi rst- belt – #120 grit is ideal. Never allow Clean before glue. Using a maroon choice adhesive if the components need to be the brass to get too hot to the touch. Handles 2 Scotch-Brite pad, clean all brass surfaces separated. In addition to the rivet seat, adhere can also be fl attened by drawfi ling with a mill of tarnish – the material should be shiny prior one brass wear strip (.0625" x 1") to the face fi le. The square’s second wear face will be to applying adhesive. farthest from the rivet seat grooves. attached after the handle is slotted.

popularwoodworking.com ■ 29

11110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd 2929 77/13/11/13/11 2:02:462:02:46 PMPM Over the years I have been involved Consider this: Most of the tools in Materials in many discussions about what makes your workshop sit and do nothing most The TS-2 looks and works best when a “great tool.” On one hand you have of the time. I believe there is another made with a dark, stable (dry) wood. proponents who lament that any effort function for these “do nothing” tools Most of the dark rosewoods look great (read cost) that does not contribute to (besides the obvious) that is equally with brass because the subtle reds in the the obvious function is waste at best, important. That function is to inspire. wood and brass work together to create and arrogance at worst. While they are sitting and doing noth- a rich, visual harmony. Whatever wood ing, tools can inspire you to give your you select, imagine it photographed best effort 100 percent of the time. in black and white alongside brass. If This is accomplished by their beauty, the tonal ranges are close, the contrast craftsmanship and soul – making it dif- will not be signifi cant enough to create fi cult for you to justify quick or shabby visual interest. work. The caveat to using exotics is that it In short, quality is contagious. is rare to fi nd them dried – the volume

Slot the handle. 6 Using a sled with a tenon attachment, slot the handle. The kerf of the sawblade must be thinner than your square blade. Avoid overcutting or under- cutting the slot. If the blade fi ts loose, your square won’t last. If it’s too tight, you won’t be able to seat the blade. Trim the handle. Use a non-ferrous 5 blade to trim the ends square to a fi nal length of 4.75."

Drill. Screw. Sand. Lay out the screw 8 holes using the exploded image on page 29 as your pattern. Carefully the shank holes to the proper depth (not too deep!), drill the pilot holes, and carefully The other wear face. After slotting, (single-fl ute do not chatter) each 7 attach the other .0625" brass wear plate. hole so the screw heads seat proud; they will Parallel & identical. After fl ush sanding, Remove the overhanging brass with the band be dressed fl ush on a stationary . 9 both faces should look like this. Now, saw and fl ush sand both faces. When the Use the bottom of an aerosol can to lay out a the square edges need to be paralleled by glue is dry, the large faces of the brass blade crown on both ends. Sand to the crown line hand on a fl at surface. Using a caliper, mea- are grained by “going through the grits” (#80 using a belt sander, or by hand with a fi le. sure across the brass wear plates and both through #400 followed by a maroon Scotch- Once it’s shaped, go through the grits and pol- ends should have identical measurements. Brite pad), using a wooden – ish the ends but make sure to keep the hard Once the edges are parallel, ensure the faces graining is along the length. line between the faces and ends crisp. are fl at.

30 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2011

11110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd 3030 77/13/11/13/11 2:03:022:03:02 PMPM produced is so low that nobody has a rod and the brass rivets are cut from to be wide enough to avoid a top-heavy reliable kiln schedule. Over the years 3⁄16" brass round stock. and unstable square. we had all of our rosewoods dried in The width of the handle deter- vacuum kilns to a moisture content of Proportions mines the amount of surface area that less than 8 percent. Ebonized Try square proportions are a big deal to is exposed to the blade for joinery pur- would be a great alternative to exotics. avoid looking awkward or “gangly.” All poses as well as the gripping surfaces. If you are going to make this tool, the of the major dimensions of Bridge City Too narrow and the joint integrity is at most important step you can take is to squares have conformed to the Golden risk; too large and the square looks awk- make sure your mater ial is in t he range Mean, or a 1:1.618 ratio. The TS-2, when ward. We recommend that the handle of 6- to 8-percent moisture content. made cor rect ly, should fi t precisely in a width be equal to the blade width plus There are generally two types of box with inside dimensions of 8" x 5". or minus 10 percent. brass alloy readily available that are The other proportional dimensions Lastly, you will want the blade to commonly referred to as 260 and 360 that are important include the width protrude about .250" from the top of brass. In its half-hard condition, 260 and thickness of the handle in relation the handle. (FYI: Toolmakers always brass has a machinability rating of 30 to the blade. Because the TS-2 can be work in decimal inche s – good compared to 360 brass, which is rated used as either an inside or outside ref- are a must.) at 100. Consequently, when you pur- erence, it must be able to sit on a flat chase brass for the TS-2 Try Square, surface with the blade vertical. When Construction Considerations specify 360 half-hard, or “free machin- used this way, the handle becomes a Working with brass is not diffi cult – it ing” brass stock. base for the blade and therefore needs can be thought of as a really hard, grain- There are two brass rivets and four less wood. It can be sawn on a table saw, steel rivets used in making the TS-2. or radial-arm saw equipped The steel rivets are cut from 1⁄8" drill

Dress the blade. Remove the factory 10 tarnish and scale by sanding through all grits (from #80 to #400 – don’t skip any – then a maroon Scotch-Brite pad). Beginning Just a dab. All it takes is two small .375" from the blade’s top edge, fi le a to 11 drops of slow-setting (30 seconds) the opposite edge ultimately removing .0625" cyanoacrylate per slot face. Wipe off excess from the blade’s bottom. This taper is a glue with a rag. Rubber gloves are a must, unless And slide them together. Carefully pocket that prevents adhesive from squirting you enjoy having a partially assembled try 12 insert the blade working the adhesive out of the square slot during assembly. square stuck to your hand. down and back.

Taps fi x it. This block of wood in a is great way to persuade Out of whack. Here you can clearly see the square is obtuse 14 the blade to where it belongs. A couple light taps usually does 13 – there are about 15 seconds left to adjust. the trick.

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11110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd 3131 77/13/11/13/11 2:03:162:03:16 PMPM with a triple-chip blade or any blade be coated – and when they are no lon- steel and brass in this case, simultane- that is designed for non-ferrous metals. ger tacky, pressed together. The main ously generates substantial heat. Both Safety glasses are a must, and I highly advantage of contact cement is that if the rivet seats and the wear plates are recommend a face shield. Other ways the project takes an unexpected turn mechanically bonded to the wooden of cutting brass include metal-cutting south, the material can be removed and handle. As these metal surfaces get hot band , reciprocating saws and, of replaced without damaging the wood they expand between the anchor points course, a hacksaw. I also strongly rec- substrate. and away from the wooden handle. If ommend a zero-clearance throat plate Mechanical bonds are not limited to you are not extremely careful, you will for the table saw or the less expensive fasteners. If you have access to a mill- ruin the handle blank. alternative, a false table slotted in 1⁄8"- ing machine, the brass and wood can thick , such as Masonite. be dovet ailed toget her – it is not an easy Squaring the Blade to the Handle It is always best to attach brass to joint but it looks great. The blade is affi xed to the handle with wood with both a chemical (adhesive) The beauty of the TS-2 is in the per- a slow-setting cyanoacrylate adhesive and a mechanical bond. In making the fect flush surfaces of the steel, brass and when dry, four rivets are inserted TS-2 we will use both adhesives and and wood. Whenever you have mul- for shock protection. brass wood screws. Exotic woods tend tiple materials with disparate hardness, But fi rst you need a reference for 90°, to be oily so you will want to wipe the the only way to fl ush t hem is w it h abra- and this is easier than you might imag- surfaces to be glued with acetone prior sives. This can be done by draw fi ling ine. In the home shop, you can create to applying an adhesive. Any quality with a mill fi le, or using a stationary a 90° reference by using the “fl ip-fl op contact cement will work great – both belt sander – the latter is not without method” of crosscutting stock with par- the wood and brass surfaces need to considerable risk. allel edges. Take your stock and crosscut Power-sanding metal, such as the it in half. Flip one half, and with both

Supplies

1 u handle blank, wood of your choice, L = 6", W = 1.5", T = .75"; edges and faces parallel to each other, all corners and ends square 1 u blade, 360 brass bar, 1⁄8" x 11⁄2", L = 7.9385" (715⁄16") 2 u wear faces, 360 brass bar, 1⁄16" x 1", L = 6" 2 u rivet seats: 360 brass bar, 1⁄16" x 1⁄4", L = 6" 2 u brass rivets: 360 brass round, 3⁄16" diameter x 1" 4 u steel rivets: drill rod, 1⁄8" diameter 12 u brass wood screws, #4 x 3⁄8" Phillips (McMaster-Carr Another adjustment. Oops! Went Victory. The square is now light-tight #92114A108) 15 too far … a couple taps with a rubber 16 to the reference. u non-ferrous table saw blade, or chop . saw blade with a kerf less than 0.120" u ball-peen hammer u center punch u scratch awl/ u drill press or jig u mill fi le u cyanoacrylate adhesive (slow set) u contact cement u #120-, #180-, #220-,#320- and #400- grit paper u Scotch-Brite pad (maroon) Ready to rivet. Once the blade is u paste wax 17 seated lay out the fi ve rivet holes: four Only slightly proud. The rivets u 82° countersink (chatter free) 1⁄8" holes in the rivet seat and one 3⁄16" rivet. 18 should be only .0625" longer than u safety glasses and face shield Mark with a center punch (don’t punch too the handle thickness. Insert rivets into the hard) and drill on a drill press. holes as shown.

32 ■ POPULAR WOODWORKING MAGAZINE October 2011

11110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd 3232 77/13/11/13/11 2:03:292:03:29 PMPM pieces resting against a known straight all are different thicknesses. We used Last, both the blade and the handle edge, the “gap” between the ends is twice the KM-1 Kerfmaker on a sliding table need to have dead-parallel edges. This the error of your cut. Adjust until the with a tenon jig to cut the slots. They can be done by hand by carefully sand- cuts “click” together and you will have all came out spot on. The alternative is ing on a fl at surface (glass or machine a reference that is plenty accurate for an to creep up on the fi nal dimension with top). It is possible to get them within 8" try square. In my toolmaking classes multiple cuts. All it takes is a little slip .001" or better with this method. A good we set the blades against a machinist and the square’s blade will be too loose pair of calipers is needed for this step. 90° angle plate to save time. to remain attached to the handle over time. Too tight and you will never be Summary Caveats able to adjust the blade to 90° before For almost 40 years this try square has There are a couple caveats in making the adhesive sets. (If this happens, use been a pure joy in my life. It is one of the this square that, if ignored, will ruin a rubber mallet to break the blade free most popular tools we have ever made the project. First is the slotting of the and start again.) and it will be a trusty and faithful addi- blade. In my toolmaking classes each The 82° countersinks need to be t ion to your shop. When not in use, put it blade is hand-dressed. Consequently, dead on. Too deep and there will be a in a place where you can see it – or more ring around each screw head. Too shal- accurately, where it can see you. I assure low and you will sand away the Phillips you, repeating 9th grade will never be recess. Here is where a little practice more fun nor more rewarding. PWM pays big visual dividends.

John is the founder of Bridge City Tool Works and teaches classes in toolmaking, design and creativity.

Tap the rivets. Use a ball-peen ham- Tap the other side. Flip the handle 19 mer and seven to 10 taps (the weight 20 and repeat the previous step. You of the hammer is suffi cient – save your effort should see no gaps between the rivet and the Brass rivet. Use the same steps for for the gym). All you are trying to do here is hole, nor should the rivets move. Do not use 21 the 3⁄16" rivet. These rivets provide slightly fl are the top of the rivet. too much force – you can split the handle. shock protection if the square is dropped.

u Go Online FOR MORE …

For links to all these online extras, go to: u popularwoodworking.com/oct11

VIDEO: Watch a short clip of John teach- ing a toolmaking class. BLOG: Read John’s funny blog about furniture design and making tools. WEB SITE: Bridge City Tool Works, John’s day job. TO BUY: “Tool Making for Woodwork- ers” by Ray Larsen. Final sanding. Once the rivets are IN OUR STORE: “Metalwork for Crafts- Flushed. Carefully fl ush sand the 23 fl ush, hand sand through the grits men” by Emil F. Kronquist. 22 rivets on a stationary sander. (I all the way up to #400. Take a couple strokes prefer a horizontal sander for this step but an on the corners to remove burrs. The handle Our products are available online at: edge sander was all I had available for this should not feel sharp on the corners. Use a u ShopWoodworking.com build.) Do not let the brass get too hot – it has maroon Scotch-Brite pad on all surfaces and nowhere to go but into the sanding belt. fi nish with a high-quality paste wax.

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11110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd110_PWM_28-33_TrySquare.indd 3333 77/13/11/13/11 2:03:412:03:41 PMPM