Mane Emerger (Mosquito) Photos and Fly by Jerry Coviello Emergers are a special transition stage the adult is not fully out, and the nymph stage is still caught in the surface film. The purpose of the pattern is to teach how to tie a segmented body using two different color hair. The CDC wing will float in the surface while the body is still under water.

Materials: Hook: Curved Hook Daiichi 1120 Size 12 : 6/0 Black Wing: Dun CDC Body: Two Strands of Moose Mane. One Black and One White. Coated with head cement or Solarez Bone Dry UV Resin Thorax: Peacock Herl

Step 1 Place the curved hook in your vise. This type of hook is not easy to know where the bend of the hook is located.

The bend is where the tying thread is around 30 degrees when you line it up with the hook point.

Step 2 Bring your thread back towards the eye of the hook but stop when your thread lines up with the point of the hook

Tie in two moose mane hairs, one white and one black. Making sure both are lined up side by side with each other.

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Step 3 Secure the moose mane to the bend of the hook. Then bring your thread back to the thorax position just past the hook point.

Start wrapping the moose mane hairs at the same time making sure you do not cross the hairs or twist the hairs.

Step 4 Wrap the two moose mane hairs like a ribbon over the shank of the hook, stopping at the thorax area.

Step 5 Tie off the two moose mane hairs at the thorax area and cut them off.

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Step 6 Apply either head cement or Solarez UV Bone Dry to the body.

Step 7 Tie in 2 peacock herl strands at the throax. Bring your thread to 1 or 2 eye lengths behind the eye

Step 8 Wrap the peacock herl to form the thorax

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Step 9 Get 2 or 3 CDC Tie them in behind the eye. Make sure that the tips do not extend past the barb of the hook.

Then whipfinsh

Add head cement or Solarez UV Bone Dry to the head

Finished Fly

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The Bead Head Photos and Fly Tied by Jerry Coviello

The Prince Nymph is a searching nymph pattern making use of peacock herl which is iridescent and reflects points of light. Adding a bead head helps to get the fly down to where the fish are located. The gold ribbing and bead reflect light mimicking air bubbles forming inside the shuck of emerging nymphs or the air bubble carried below the surface by some beetles. Proper bead selection, bead attachment, biot mounting, and peacock herl wrapping are some of the techniques required in tying this pattern. Several of these techniques have different procedures to arrive at the same result. Some tiers will mount the biots one at a time while other tiers will mount them both simultaneously. Multiple Peacock herls may be reinforced for strength by wrapping them around the tying thread, or, by spinning the herls in a dubbing loop to form a peacock chenille

BEADHEAD PRINCE NYMPH

Materials Hook: Nymph Hook, 1XL, size 12 Thread: Black 6/0 or 8/0 Bead: Gold bead sized for hook (for size 12, 2.8 to 3 mm or 7/64) Tail: Brown biots Rib: Fine gold oval or small gold flat tinsel Body: Peacock herl Hackle: Fairly rigid brown hen or softer rooster hackle Wing: White biots

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STEP-BY-STEP TYING INSTRUCTIONS

1. To place the bead on the hook, mount the hook with the hook point upward

2. Place a bead on your bodkin. Large hole towards the bodkin handle making the small hole to the hook point.

3. Reposition the hook in your vise. Attached the thread behind the bead. Then bring your thread to the bend of the hook. To help the biot tail to be forked, wrap a small ball of thread at the bend of the hook

4. The tail should be ½ a shank in length. Position the biots so they are resting on the shank with the tie-in spot over the barb. Switch hands so the thumb and a finger from the left hand are holding the biot pair in position. Make a soft wrap over the biot fibers directly behind the bump on the shank. Make several tighter wraps and check to be sure the fibers form a "V" shape on top of the rear of the fly. You can carefully figure 8 wrap to establish the splay of the fibers. Wrap the thread forward, binding down the biot stems. Trim the wastes when you get to the rear of the bead.

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5. Wrap the tying thread a few wraps back down the shank and let the thread hang. Attach the tinsel to the side of the shank away from you and bind it down along the far side of the shank to the tail tie-in position

6. Attach 3 or 4 peacock herls by their tips at the tail tie-in position

7. Make a peacock rope by twisting the peacock herl around the tying thread

8. Wrap the peacock chenille up the shank using touching turns around the hook shank to form the body. Leaving a half eye length behind the bead to add the hackle and wing.

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9. Wrap the tinsel forward in the opposite direction of the body making 4 to 5 evenly spaced turns. Tie off the rib behind the bead and trim the waste

10. Select and prepare the hackle by stripping off the fluff from the butt end. Use a fairly rigid hen hackle or a softer rooster hackle. Attach the hackle by the butt behind the bead. The dull side should be towards the bend of the hook with shiny side up

11. Make one or two turns of hackle, tie off, and trim waste. Hackles may be at least 1½ gap in length. These fibers should move like those in a soft hackle tie.

12. Select the white biots for the wings. These should form a "V" over the back and the tips should reach to the end of the body. The white biots should form an angle close to 30° Attach one of the biots at the proper angle with one or two thread wraps. Attach the second biot in a similar way to form the 30° angle.

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13. Carefully fold the biot waste up and back to the rear and tie off tight against the bead. Similarly tie off the other biot.. Trim the white biot waste and make several wraps to bind down the biot ends

14 Whipfinish

15 Place a drop of head cement on the wraps behind the bead.

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Jerry Coviello 207 Hibiscus Drive Chalfont, PA 18914 267-337-0717

An accomplished fly tier, and a FFI Buz Buszek Award Recipient, Jerry serves as Fly Fishers International Fly Tying Group Chairperson, and the Fly Tying Column Editor for Flyfisher Magazine. He is a columnist for Magazine and the President and newsletter editor for Delaware Valley Fly Fishers. He also serves on the FFI Education Committee developing Fly Tying Workshops to help members learn how to tie flies; created a YouTube Channel “Jerry’s Fly Tying Tips” that has over 90 fly tying videos to teach how to tie flies.

Jerry also teaches workshops at the FFI Expo and many Online Fly Tying Workshops and Presentations.

Demonstration fly tier at the FFI Fly Fishing Expo, ’s Tie Fest, New Jersey Fly Fishing Show, and the International Fly Tying Symposium.

Pro Team member for the following: Dyna-King Vises Solarez UV Resin Ewing Feathers

Life Member of Fly Fishers International and Unlimited