FR EE Vi sitor Guide explore

COOKTOWNHistory • Adventure • Culture

| WUJAL WUJA FIELD L OOM | BL N | LAKE LE KTOW LAND | IL OO LAUR SSV C A | EN | RO DEAVOUR VALLEY

Sealed highway access, daily flights and bus from . www.cooktownandcapeyork.com Explore Cooktown History • Adventure • Culture

Cooktown waterfront on the

Photo Credits Contents Tourism , Lovegreen Photography, Kerry Trapnell, Cooktown History Centre, Cook Shire Council, Explore Cooktown James Cook Museum, The Lure Shop, Ben Tome, Hamish History • Adventure • Culture...... 2 Haslop, HEMA Maps and all the others who contributed images to this guide. Cape York Map...... 4 Arrive By Self Drive, Air, or Bus...... 6 Design & Layout Cooktown Paykel Creative - your creative marketing agency www.paykelcreative.com.au Sightseeing in Cooktown...... 8 Museums & Galleries...... 16 Publisher’s Notice History & Culture...... 18 This Visitor Guide is published by Cooktown Chamber of Botanic Gardens...... 24 Commerce & Tourism and is Co-ordinated by Hamish Haslop Beaches & Bays...... 26 of Pacific Downunder. This publication is only possible due to the outstanding support of the local businesses who National Parks...... 28 advertise within. No part of this publication may be printed, Supplies & Recreation...... 30 reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without written permission from Cooktown Chamber of Driving to Cooktown Commerce & Tourism. Outback Inland...... 32 All care has been taken to ensure accuracy of information Rainforest Coast...... 34 contained in the guide. However the guide is to encourage Endeavour Valley & Hope Vale ...... 38 you to visit and explore Cooktown. HEMA maps, guidebooks Lakeland & Laura ...... 40 and local knowledge should be used for remote adventures. The publisher does not in any way accept liability for Experience Fishing inaccuracies or for the loss of any kind arising out of editorial River, Reef & Beach...... 42 or advertising or otherwise. Experience Wildlife Birdwatching, Crocodiles...... 43

Know the Rules...... 44 2018 Events Calendar ...... 45 Emergency Services ...... 45 Proudly Printed by Bolton Print an ISO 14001 certified firm Community Directory...... 46 © Cooktown Chamber of Commerce & Tourism 2018 Edition 2 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Welcome Cape York is noted to be one of the world’s last untouched frontiers, for many it is on the top of their bucket list. Cape York today offers everyone the opportunity to explore its history, adventure and culture at their own pace.

Cooktown is a beautiful, un-spoilt, small historic coastal town surrounded by stunning unparalleled countryside, nestled inside ’s Great Barrier Grassy Hill Reef. With its laid-back atmosphere and friendly people, this is the perfect base to explore the When to Visit rugged beauty of South East Cape York. The region Our superb tropical climate ensures that every is famous for its history, its pristine environment month is a good month to visit. and Aboriginal culture. Relax and let Cooktown’s ambience and historic stories provide a truly The Green Season (April – June) after the wet, unique experience. we welcome fresh breezes to dry the landscape from its big soak. The monsoon trough dissipates, The “Explore Cooktown” visitors guide suggests opening the sky to a welcome Queensland blue many journeys to assist your planning. The regions with warm days to cool evenings. The surrounding unique flora and fauna is diverse and accessible. flora & fauna flourishes in these optimum growing From the on the spectacular Mulligan conditions. Daily sunshine averages around Highway, through to the town of Lakeland. Explore 7 hours and average temperature is 28˚C. the ancient Aboriginal rock art in Laura, the coastal region of Hopevale or the World Heritage The Dry Season (July to December) has fresh rainforest coastline, which is framed by pure white tropical breezes, excellent bird life and a period we sandy beaches that look out towards Australia’s define as winter. Daily sunshine averages around and its islands. These are only a 7.5 hours and average temperature is 26˚C. few ideas to entice you! The Wet Season (usually January to March) Cooktown is open for business and accessible brings monsoon rains that brings renewed life all year round by conventional vehicle. Most in spectacular fashion to both rainforest and attractions of the region can be accessed this outback savannah. The wet is a great time to see way as well. The region is the perfect self-drive the waterfalls in full flow, the wildlife at its best and destination giving you the freedom of making enjoy incredible fishing conditions. Please note, your trip tailored to your interests. There are other many roads north of Laura & Hope Vale are subject journeys that are better accomplished by 4WD. For to flooding and may be closed during periods of more information contact the Cooktown Visitor the wet. Information Centre 07 4069 6004. Cooktown and the surrounding regions included Over the past few years the Cook Shire and within this booklet are accessible all year round have invested in major and welcome your adventure! road and bridge upgrades opening our region up for access, business and tourism.

3 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Explore Cooktown Cape York’s Coastal Heartland

4 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Direct from Cooktown airport we now offer our popular Reef Flights, Day Tours and Cape York Day Tours

5 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Arrive By Self Drive, Air, or Bus

Daintree Air Services to then north via Lakeland Downs to Cooktown before returning to Cairns. Historically Daintree Air Services have offered Coastal service departs Cairns each Monday, their popular Air-Tours, Scenic Flights and Air Wednesday & Friday travelling to Cooktown via Charter Services from their Cairns Base. 2018 Mossman, Cape Tribulation and . marks a big change in the Company’s long The return service departs Cooktown for Cairns History as their new Cooktown base is expected each Tuesday, Thursday & Saturday. to open in May 2018. The Cooktown base represents a huge financial commitment and a big vote of Confidence in the future of Cooktown Self-Drive and Surrounds. Clients can now book to Depart There are two main routes north to get to on Charter Flights anywhere in Australia directly Cooktown. The Mulligan Highway travels inland out of and returning directly to Cooktown rather through Mt Molloy, Mt Carbine, Lakeland, Black than having to travel to Cooktown via Cairns Mountain onto Cooktown. This route is open as they have had to do previously. The very all year round, day and night, and is the typical popular Reef Flights, Lizard Island Day Tours outback scenery with open roads as far as the and Cape York Day Tours will also be available eye can see. Take caution when driving at night from Cooktown. due to wildlife and wandering stock. Rivers to watch due to Monsoon rains (Jan-April) as they can flood for short periods, Rifle Creek at Mt Bus Molloy, the McLeod after Mt Carbine, and the Little at Black Mountain. Trans North Bus & Coach offer two Cairns to Cooktown express passenger and light The infamous coastal route from Cape freight services. Tribulation to Wujal Wujal is an unsealed 4WD track () with the remaining Inland service from Cairns to Cooktown operates road through Ayton, Rossville, Helenvale, Black three days per week departing Cairns each Mountain and onto Cooktown now sealed. This Sunday, Wednesday & Friday travelling west

Charlotte Street, Cooktown

6 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE route is best driven North to South as the coastal Car Hire views in this direction are simply superb. This would be one of Australia’s most interesting (for further information see driving to drives which is being slowly tamed, after years Cooktown page 32) of being wild. The majority of the road between Hire cars are available in Cooktown from the Mossman and Cooktown is fully sealed and Sovereign Resort Hotel. Taxis are also available most rivers bridged, especially the newly sealed in Cooktown. Cooktown Tours offer scenic town section from Wujal Wujal to Helenvale. tours conducted by a knowledgeable local team.

LUXURY APARTMENTS Cooktown Harbour

Pacific Downunder Views 146 Charlotte Street Cooktown, Qld 4895 T: 0402 252 372 Spacious modern appartments with classy furnishings, a short walk to attractions, shops, wharf, boat ramp and waterfront. A wheelchair stair lift is fitted with secure off street parking. The large verandah over looking Charlotte St offers great views. Three bedroom apartments can easily be booked securely online or call! [email protected] | www.cooktownviews.com

7 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Sightseeing in Cooktown

Aerial view of Cooktown License # 2202673 Sightseeing in Cooktown A good starting point for a walking tour of Phone Cooktown is the Post Office in Charlotte Street. 4069 5775 Located at the intersection of Green Street, this heritage building was erected in 1887. • Sales Strolling east you pass the Cooktown School • Property Management of Art Society’s “Elizabeth Guzsely Gallery”. Alongside is the recently refurbished Cooktown • Auctions RSL Club, originally built before 1885 as the Daintree Divisional Board Council Hall. In 1903 • Storage Sheds it became the Shire Council Hall where Council operated up to 1932. The Cooktown RSL • Property Estimations Memorial Club welcomes members and guests to • Business Sales enjoy its historic background, a cold beer or a nice meal in Ol’ Mates Bistro with friends. More than 25 years of local knowledge! At the Lions Park the local markets are held 1/112 Charlotte St, Cooktown, Qld, 4895 on Saturday mornings and here you will find a [email protected] shaded children’s playground. www.cooktownre.com

FULL RANGE OF GROCERIES • TELSTRA DEALER • DELICATESSEN • FRESH FRUIT & VEGIES • FREEZER • DAIRY FRESH MEAT • BAIT & ICE Phone: (07) 4069 5633 I Fax: (07) 4069 5569 29 Helen St Cooktown QLD 4895 PO Box 351 Cooktown QLD 4895 Email: [email protected] OPENING HOURS: MON-FRI: 7AM - 7PM I SAT: 8AM - 6PM I SUN: 8AM - 5PM

8 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE 9 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Sightseeing in Cooktown

Across the street from the Lions Park is the Queen’s Steps and statue of Mick the Miner and Jackey Jackey Store. Built in 1886 by Joseph the Chinese monument which commemorate Neuman as a general store and living quarters, the Palmer Gold Rush, before arriving at the it was part of a flourishing trade between New Cooktown Wharf. Here you can try casting a line Guinea, Cooktown and southern markets. or simply chat with the locals. It is known as one of the best fishing spots on the eastern sea board. From the park you will pass the Old Town Well and the cairn to , who landed After the wharf we have the town’s stunning new at Rockingham Bay in May 1840 on an expedition entertainment precinct that will be completed to explore Cape York and was fatally speared some time into the future all the way to the in December of the same year. Then on to the Powder Magazine. Used for the storage of Cook Monument & Cannon; The monument, explosives, it is interesting to note that no nails dating from 1887, commemorates Cook’s were used in its construction in 1874. It is believed landing in 1770. The cannon was brought to to be the oldest brick building on Cape York. Cooktown in 1885. The then Cooktown Council carried the following motion, “A wire be sent to Alongside the Post Office, walking west, are the the Premier in requesting he supply former Shire Council Offices. Originally built arms, ammunition and competent officer to take in 1876-77 as a Post & Telegraph Office, the charge against a threat of Russian invasion.” building was taken over by the Council in 1893 The cannon, cast in Scotland in 1803, 3 after fire destroyed their original offices. This cannonballs, 2 rifles and 1 officer were sent. The building is now home to The History Centre cannon is still fired at the Cooktown Discovery with award winning interpretive displays from Festival in June and on special occasions. Here the Cooktown Historical Society’s Archives & also is the Musical Ship, a musical playground. Research Centre.

Continue on to Bicentennial Park which features Further on is Mrs Watson’s Monument (c.1886) the James Cook Statue donated to the people dedicated to Mrs Watson, who survived an of Cooktown by BP. The park is also the site of Aboriginal attack on Lizard Island in September the annual re-enactment of Cook’s landing. 1881, to die later on Number 5 Island of the The bronze statue is the work of the Australian Howick group. Next to the monument is sculptor Stanley Hammond. A large granite rock The Boat House, home to the Re-enactment cairn on the foreshore bears a plaque with the Association and a wealth of information on inscription, “This cairn marks the spot where Captain Cook’s stay in Cooktown. Captain James Cook beached his “HM Bark Across the street is the Sovereign Resort Hotel. Endeavour” in the year 1770”. The original Sovereign Hotel was built in 1874 Onto the Milbi Wall (The Story Wall) telling and was one of the first double storey buildings in the story from an Aboriginal perspective, the Cooktown. Partially destroyed during the cyclone of 1949 it attracted the nickname “The Half Sovereign”.

10 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown 2020 17 June to 4 August, 2020 7 weeks of history. For more information www.cooktown2020.com

In 2020, Cooktown will celebrate our shared history in the spirit of reconciliation on the 250th anniversary of Captain Cook’s sojourn in the mouth of the Endeavour River. We invite you Cooktown markets on a voyage of discovery through the events that shaped the history of our nation. Inspired Next lies the Ferrari Estates building, built in 1886 by the history of the encounters between the for the Bank of . Next to this is Europeans and Australia’s first peoples, we Seagren’s, erected in 1880 by a former mayor, will work in partnership to educate and inspire P.E.Seagren, as a furniture store. Next door is the individuals and communities and build a magnificent “Old Bank” building, c.1891. stronger future through a greater understanding of past events. Cooktown 2020 is a 48-day festival On the corner of Furneaux Street is a traditional commemorating the arrival of James Cook 250 Queenslander, formerly both bank and Post years ago, the scientific discoveries that were Office staff quarters. A block further up Furneaux recorded during his 48 days on shore and the Street on the corner of Helen Street stands the interactions that occurred between the crew and grand James Cook Museum built in 1889. the Guugu Yimithirr people. We welcome you to get on board and share our stories. RiveR of Gold Motel • Twenty-three rooms • Annan’s fully licensed • Relax in air restaurant & bar, including conditioned comfort the internationally acclaimed, • Friendly courteous Stonegrill dining service • Purpose built • Large tropical pool function room • Foxtel, broadband • Central location & free wifi • Self service laundry • Self-contained units • Ample off-street parking • Disabled unit (boats, trailers, trucks)

freecall 1800 005 203 | Phone: (07) 4069 5222 | fax: (07) 4069 5615 Cnr: Hope & Walker Streets, Cooktown | PO Box 392 Cooktown QLD 4895 [email protected] | www.riverofgoldmotel.com.au

11 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Sightseeing in Cooktown

12 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE 13 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Sightseeing in Cooktown

Cooktown wharf area World class Endeavour River sunset

Continuing on down Charlotte Street on the left Association. In Anzac Park the Leopard Tank was is the West Coast Hotel, another survivor of the donated to Cooktown R.S.L Sub Branch by the Gold Rush days built in 1874. As we write, this Commonwealth of Australia in 2011. building is being rebuilt after damaged sustained through T.C Ita in 2014. Across the street on the corner of Walker Street is the Cooktown Hotel, formerly the Commercial To your right is the old Cooktown Railway Hotel. Built in 1875, and re-named the Cooktown Station. This fine old building was originally the Hotel in 1982. nerve centre of the Cooktown-Laura Railway. The 67 mile line operated from 1885 to 1961. The building was moved to its present site in 1965 and is now home to the Cooktown Creative Arts

14 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Grassy Hill Cook Shire Council welcomes visitors to our region, with a number of useful services on offer. Grassy Hill Lighthouse is located at the Eastern There are libraries in Cooktown and Bloomfield, end of Hope Street where the lookouts provide which offer computers, printing, copying and breathtaking panoramic views of Cooktown, scanning, internet access and free WiFi, as well as the Endeavour River and . James Cook a great range of books, DVDs, CDs and magazines. climbed the hill on several occasions to view the surrounding reefs enabling him to navigate a safe We have safe, croc-free swimming in Cooktown at passage out after repairing his ship. our community pool, which is open every day and hosts a range of classes and activities weekly. Built in Birmingham England, the lighthouse was shipped Waste reduction is something we are passionate to Cooktown in 1885 about in Cook Shire, and as well as waste transfer and automated in stations and landfills in various sites across 1927. Grassy Hill the Shire, we have remote rubbish cages and provides the best recycling skips to help visitors do the right thing spot to enjoy world with their waste while travelling. class sunsets over the surrounding region. Visit Council’s website, www.cook.qld.gov.au, for more information on Council’s facilities, including contact details, locations and opening hours.

COOKTOWN RSL

Known for great food, cold beer and our BISTRO HOURS: relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy dinner on the 12pm-2:30pm and 6pm-8:30pm verandah with friends, take in some live Open 7 days from 10am entertainment or try your luck on the pokies. find us on facebook

T: 07 4069 5780 I E: [email protected] I A: 127 Charlotte St, Cooktown

15 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Museums & Galleries

Cooktown History Centre Cooktown History Centre James Cook Museum Staffed entirely by volunteers from the Cooktown The James Cook Museum is a fascinating and District Historical Society the Cooktown attraction where every visitor can enjoy a stroll History Centre showcases life through the ages through history in the beautifully restored Sisters in Cooktown with award winning displays. Mini of Mercy convent school building, originally displays within the main display highlight the built in 1889. Administered by the National Trust early mining, the Cooktown Railway and the busy of Queensland, the James Cook Museum is wharf area. Many historical photos enhance the considered one of the most significant Trust area along with stories of life in times past. museums open to the public.

The Centre also houses an extensive archive Highlights include displays of the original H.M. and research area and a popular family history Bark Endeavour anchor and cannon, Cook’s service and database which give visitors with diary extracts, stories from local Aboriginal early ties to Cooktown valuable insight into elders, the Palmer River Gold Rush, every day earlier family life in the greater Cooktown and life in early Cook’s Town and the Chinese who Palmer River areas. flocked to this area. Enjoy the beautiful gardens and don’t leave without browsing through the books, gifts and souvenirs.

The James Cook Museum is a stunning museum and an asset to Cooktown and should not be missed!

Queen Elizabeth opens the James Cooktowm Museum in 1970

16 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Elizabeth Guzsely Gallery C SH O O The Cooktown School of Art Society’s R P Elizabeth Guzsely Gallery on Charlotte Street C * T Shirts * Crocodile products displays and sells original artworks from the * Aboriginal artifacts Cooktown area. * Hats * Badges * Books

Croc Shop 115 Charlotte Street Cooktown, QLD, 4895 Tel 07 4069 5880

Come and browse the collection of local Downunder Pacific and Aboriginal art as well as tourist gifts and souvenirs. Don’t forget to ask about Linda’s book about life on Cape York.

James Cook Museum – HMB Endeavour anchor

Visit James Cook Museum A visit to Cooktown is not complete without a seeing the James Cook Museum, a stunning nineteenth century former convent that now showcases the fascinating history of this remarkable town. Highlights of your visit to the gallery will be seeing the anchor and an original cannon from HMB Endeavour. See website for seasonal opening hours. NationalTrust.org.au

Cnr Helen and Furneaux St, Cooktown

17 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown History & Culture

James Cook Cook needed to find somewhere to repair the ship. He sailed his damaged 368 ton vessel to In 1770, Captain James Cook and his ship the find shelter. Initially sailing south to Bloomfield ‘HMB Endeavour’ ran afoul on the Great Barrier of which they had passed some time earlier. Reef seriously damaging the hull just off Cape The sand bar was too shallow, Weary Bay was Tribulation. To float her off the coral Reef, over named before the Endeavour headed north on 50 tons weight was thrown overboard including the trade winds whilst still pumping water from the six deck guns and their carriages, iron and the ships bilge. A safe harbour was found just to stone ballast, hoops and staves, casks, and the north which afforded them all the necessaries decayed stores. needed to effect repairs and provide fresh food for the crew. Cook landed at what today is Finally on the next high tide she floated free, named the Endeavour River, [Waalumbaal 23 desperate hours after she first hit the reef. Birri] to the Guugu Yimithir bama. This inlet by After freeing her from the reef it became apparent chance, provided the very shelter and resources that the ship and crew were in mortal danger they needed, 7 days after being marooned on as she rapidly started taking water. The men the Great Barrier Reef. Cook’s 48-day stay in the couldn’t swim nor were there sufficient life boats harbour was to be his longest onshore stay on for all hands. the east coast of Australia. He later named the river ‘Endeavour’ after the great vessel whose Everyone on board including Cook and Joseph life it saved. It was the only river in Australia he Banks took their turn at the pumps, 15 minutes would name. at a time, then falling down exhausted allowing the next man to take over. Not an oath was Every year the Cooktown Discovery Festival uttered as was the norm on seafaring vessels celebrates this historic event by staging a fully at that time, every man working toward their costumed re-enactment of Cooks landing. See eventual salvation. Midshipman Johnathan the events section on page 45 for more. Monkhouse suggested fothering the ship - a temporary repair method he had seen used successfully before. A sail was covered with oakum, dung and sheep’s wool and drawn under Endeavour’s belly, Relief was instant with the intake of water slowing such that it could be kept under with just one pump. Cooktown Re-enactment

E RE F FI WI

18 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Annan River bend Quiet Peaceful Campground Cooktown Only a short distance to Cooktown’s attractions. Caravan Park 14 - 16 Hope Street Cooktown, Qld 4895 T: 4069 5563 aClean Amenities aWheelchair Access aPowered Sites Pacific Downunder aNo Sand flies aGroups Welcome aLaundry aPet Friendly aNew Camp Kitchen aNon-Powered sites [email protected] | www.cooktowncaravanpark.com

The Seaview Motel is Cooktown’s ONLY accommodation located on the waterfront The Seaview Motel with spectacular Endeavour River views!

• 3 and 4 star units We also offer a range of facilities available to all guests • Tropical, sparkling pool in addition to room-specifi c facilities: • Great fi shing on our doorstep • Daily breakfast is available in the breakfast room from • Airconditioning 6.30 – 9am. Closed November 1st to April 30th. 178 Charlotte Street, • Colour TV and fridge • A range of beer, spirits and wine is available on site. Cooktown, Qld, 4895 • Tea and coffee making facilities, • Community microwave oven P: 4069 5377 F: 4069 5807 plus toaster • Coin-operated laundry and ironing facilities • Tropical BBQ areas • Off-street and some undercover parking • A STUNNING VIEW from • Car washing areas E: [email protected] EVERY ROOM The Seaview Motel has an on-site caretaker. W: cooktownseaviewmotel.com.au

19 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown History & Culture

The Rainbow Serpent on the Milbi Wall

Aboriginal History Milbi Wall

Wantharra nyundu! The Milbi Wall is a reconciliation artwork which Welcome to our country! explains the significance of the first known European contact with the Aboriginal People of Cooktown lies in Guugu Yimithirr country, a the area from an Aboriginal point of view. The tribal nation which stretches from the Annan vibrant wall tells the story in hand painted tiles. River (Yuku Baja), just south of Cooktown, to in the north. This is one of Cape York’s 41 tribal nations, Aboriginal Tours & Attractions each having its own distinct A drive out to Laura on the sealed road via language, history, culture, bush Lakeland is a real treat. The landscape changes foods and bush medicines. frequently as does the wildlife and scenery. We are surrounded by Visiting the ancient rock art at Split Rock public opportunity to engage galleries are available to everyone. Entry is by in or visit some of donation. There you will see three galleries Queensland’s most dating back thousands of years. distinctive rock art Bloodwood Clapsticks and Aboriginal culture.

Cook Shire Nature’s PowerHouse www.naturespowerhouse.com.au (07) 4069 5763 Visitor Information Centre T: 4069 6004 Gateway to the Pacific Downunder heritage listed Botanic Gardens

Stunningly situated within Cooktown’s historic Botanic Gardens. Art Gallery ~ showcases botanical illustrator Vera Scarth-Johnson ~ local and visiting artists ~ Quality Gifts and Books ~ Light healthy Lunches ~ Delicious Coffee ~ Drinks and Cakes

20 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE For those wanting something very special, you From Wujal Wujal on the rainforest coast are able to book an Aboriginal guided tour the Walker Family offer guided tours to the to the Quinkan Galleries, Mushroom Rock or . The Bana Yirriji Art and Giant Horse galleries. Numbers and visitation is Cultural Centre is located on the banks of the restricted to around 150 people per year to help just below the Wujal Wujal preserve the area. Stunning ancient galleries in Waterfall. The artists from Wujal Wujal represent their original state, bush tucker yarns and ancient three traditional clan groups, the Yalanji, story-lines are all part of these fantastic tours. Nyungkul and Jalunji people.

The Quinkan Regional Cultural Centre in Laura is Artist’s inspiration comes from the land where all tours depart from. The centre itself tells that surrounds them, rainforests, waterfalls, the story of the people of the region, the Palmer mountains, rivers and the sea. A lot of the River Gold Rush displays, rock art interpretation, paintings are from cultural stories passed down welcome to country video, language boards to them from their families and Traditional along with the famous history of taming the wild Elders. All artworks are handcrafted and north frontier - Cape York. painted in the community at the centre by local artists.

Giant Horse Galleries rock art, Laura 21 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown History & Culture

Historical railway The old courthouse

The Palmer Gold Rush By February 1874 Cook’s Town was booming with hundreds of wood and iron buildings on The discovery of gold on the Palmer River by both sides of a two mile length of Charlotte Street. William Hann on the 14th August 1872, and the Stores, licensed pubs and banks could be found subsequent report by miner explorer James along with gambling and opium dens in the Venture Mulligan on the 3rd September 1873 of Chinese quarter. the discovery of 102 ounce payable gold, led to the start of the Palmer River Gold Rush. By the end of 1875 there were an estimated 15,000 miners on the Palmer, of which 10,000 The establishment of a port for the movement were Chinese. of supplies was a priority. The Endeavour River was chosen and the SS Leichhardt landed the The cost of cartage was high and many have government survey team, a party of police, the concluded that the only people to make a fortune new Gold Commissioner and 60 miners on its on the Palmer were the hotel keepers and carriers. muddy shore on 25th October 1873. Tens of thousands of hopeful miners made their Most of this group set off almost immediately to way to Cooktown, whose resident population blaze a road to the goldfield, whilst behind them, hovered between 3000-4000, and its port saw so on the banks of the Endeavour, the first tents and many vessels it was said only Brisbane had more. pre-fabricated buildings began to appear and Cook’s Town it was named. With a pub literally on every corner, a very large transient population and only shipping as transport out, the town had a very colourful early life. Australia’s Wild Northern reputation was born.

SAVE UP TO

Alive Discount Pharmacy Shops -- OOConnor Arcade eee Charlotte Street Cooktown QLD www.alivepharmacy.com.au Ph: facebook.commalivediscountpharmacy ȆON ǿVITAɈMINS Fax: E: cooktownnalivepharmacy.com.au

22 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE The Cooktown Cemetery The Cooktown cemetery is the final resting place for people of many nationalities, religions and cultures that lived in this remote pioneering town.

The stories that unfold within its boundaries bear witness to the tragedies, triumphs and mysteries experienced by the people in the times of the gold rush era, and early settlement of the township.

The many headstones show the diversity of architectural styles using a wide range of Chinese Shrine materials. The styles reflect the religious groups, with the most elaborate headstones being found in the Roman Catholic and Church of England sections and don’t miss the Chinese Shrine and memorial Chinese urn or the graves on the fringe.

Virtually no Chinese or Aboriginal graves are marked, despite many burials of both races being recorded. The oldest graves date back to 1874.

114 Charlotte Street (centre of town) Cooktown Fuels, oils & lubricants | Spare parts Tyres - most brands & sizes

Wheel Alignments | Century Batteries r

Swap & Go Gas | Ice | Bait

c Downunde c fi Manual Car Wash | Mini Mart Paci T: 4069 5233 | [email protected]

Untitled-1.indd 1 19/12/2017 2:09:43 PM

23 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Botanic Gardens

Cooktown Botanic Gardens

Cooktown Botanic Gardens One of Australia’s oldest Botanic Gardens, established in 1878, the Gallop Botanic Reserve encompasses 62.3 Ha (154 acres) on the edge of Cooktown and contains the Cooktown Botanic Gardens and walking trails to Finch Bay and Cherry Tree Bay. The historic Solander garden has living specimens of the 325 plants collected by Sir Joseph Banks and Daniel Solander. They were here for longer than elsewhere in Australia. This makes the area the basis of the European knowledge of Australian flora of the time and therefore a very important part of our Australian heritage. www.cooktownalamanda.com.au

The gardens feature exotic fruit trees as well as native and exotic palms, orchids and a huge variety of tropical species. Learn about the plants and the history while enjoying a leisurely walk. Guided tours of the gardens are available by appointment. Contact the Visitor Information Centre on 4069 6004 for further details.

Entada phaseoloides (Matchbox Bean)

24 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE 25 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Beaches & Bays

Walker Bay Chinese Sculpture in recognition to the Chinese involvement in developing the Far North. Cooktown boat ramp in background.

Finch, Cherry Tree, Walker Keating’s Lagoon Conservation Park and Quarantine Bays 5km south of Cooktown is Keating’s Lagoon Finch and Cherry Tree Bays are two of Cooktown’s which is great for bird-watching. Enjoy a pleasant most beautiful beaches. Either drive to Finch stroll through woodland along the edge of the Bay, or enjoy the short bush walk from the lagoon to a wheelchair-accessible bird hide. Botanic Gardens. The secluded Cherry Tree Bay Marvel at the sight of flocks of waterbirds feeding is fringed by rainforest and rock formations. Access on rich pickings in the scenic wetlands from to Cherry Tree Bay is by foot only, either starting at inside a snug bird-hide. You’ll see numerous the Botanic Gardens or the Grassy Hill road. ducks, pygmy-geese, jacanas and magpie geese. Don’t forget your binoculars and insect repellent! Walker Bay, a popular local beach near the Golf Course, is at the mouth of the Annan River, and is favoured by anglers and renowned amongst Fishing & Boating kite surfers. (4WD or walking only). Quarantine Cooktown has great fishing. On the Endeavour Bay is 7km from Cooktown (turn off the Mulligan the to Highway, 2WD) and has a fantastic pebbly beach and Annan Rivers, Cooktown Wharf along the banks of various rivers. The coastal and sheltered bay with Mt Cook as your backdrop. beaches and off shore reefs offer fine catches. Please be aware of the dangers of crocodiles Take your own boat up the river to experience and seasonal stingers on all beaches of native wildlife and learn about this amazing Northern Australia – swimming, snorkeling and ecosystem the way Joseph Banks did in 1770. kitesurfing is at your own risk! Learn more and ask the locals! The best time for croc-spotting is during the dry season on a low tide. Saltwater crocodiles Archer Point (Yuku Baja Muliku) are commonly seen in the North arm of the Endeavour River. Likewise Bloomfield River and Archer Point is 20km south of Cooktown (turnoff Falls as well as the Big Annan River, crocodiles are the Mulligan Highway gravel road). At low tide out sunning themselves frequently on these river you can walk out to the reef, but beware of banks. The North arm of the River also offers the crocodiles and stingers. There are spectacular opportunity to see many views from the lighthouse of the windswept and native birds, green tree rugged coastline. Great kitesurfing! snakes and pythons.

26 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Endeavour River Escape

Luxury Bush Camping with Real Country Hospitality

1st turn right past the Cooktown Airport $25 per double $150 per week Extra: Adult $12.50 Children 416years $6 Huge Quiet Private Grassed Level Sites Catering for everything from tents to huge RVs All sites unpowered quiet generators 8am8pm

Set in 250 Private Acres 2WD Access Clean Modern Amenities Boat Ramp & River Access Your Own Campfire Large Camp Kitchen Bush Walking & Bird Watching Rainforest Free Washing Machine Free Van Storage for Guests Well Behaved Pets welcome Ph:40695084 www.endeavourriverescape.com Real Camping with the tough stuff taken out!

Keating’s Lagoon Cooktown Holiday Park

Comfortable accommodation in a Tropical Setting • Cabins: Budget, 1 or 2 Bedroom • Spacious and well-equipped (Fully Self-Contained) Camp Kitchen • Motel Units (Fully Self-Contained) • Beautiful shady park • Large powered grassy sites: • SORRY NO PETS RV Friendly

Freecall: 1800 255 162 | 35-41 Charlotte St, Cooktown (at the roundabout) Find us on [email protected] | www.cooktownholidaypark.com.au facebook

27 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown National Parks

A walking track climbs steeply for 2km to the Waymburr lookout and just before the trail mounts the long spur to the summit, a short path on the right leads to a lookout with views over Cooktown. From the junction the summit trail zigzags up to a saddle where another short path leads to a lookout with fantastic views over

Black Mountain National Park Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, and then up to the peak at 431 metres.

Black Mountain National Park The start of the trail is signposted from the end of (Kalkajaka) Ida Street in Cooktown. The Mount Cook hiking The mysterious Black Mountains are steeped trail is an exhilarating walk requiring a good level in myths and legends, and are a special story of fitness. place for the people. It is a marking point for the end of the World Heritage Rainforest into the dry. There is a viewing area signposted from the Mulligan Highway with interpretive signage giving an insight into this incredible 260 million year old rock formation.

Mount Cook National Park (Waymburr) Mount Cook acts as a stunning rainforest clad backdrop to Cooktown. Originally named Gore’s Mount by Captain Cook, the name of the mountain was changed in 1819 to Mount Cook by Phillip Parker King who was unaware of the original title. View from Mt Cook

View inland from Grassy Hill 28 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Scenic Rim Walk For more information or a self-guided Scenic Rim walking map, please visit the Cooktown Visitor Walking Tracks Information Centre at Natures Powerhouse see page 20. Whether you are fit or frail, looking for a strenuous day’s outing or an hour’s easy trail, the ‘Cooktown Scenic Rim Walking Trail’ is uniquely able to cater for all fitness levels, as it may be commenced or completed at many points along the route.

This magnificent walk takes in a variety of different bio-regions and historic sites, with sections including the Mangrove Wetlands, the historic Cooktown Cemetery, Finch Bay, Mount Cook, Cherry Tree Bay and Grassy Hill. Pacific Downunder

T: 0428 745 398 | 95 Charlotte St, Cooktown www.cooktownplatinumrealty.com.au

Cooktown Scenic Rim Walking Trail

Tents Fridges Swags Camp Gear Chairs Lighting Esky’s Batteries Repelent Stoves Mattress Flasks Tarps, Ropes & Pegs ...... plus heaps more adventure!

Cape York Camping.indd 1 13/01/2018 9:14:29 PM 29 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Supplies & Recreation

Cooktown Supplies When travelling in and around Cooktown fresh food supplies are essential. If you are travelling further north, Cooktown, Lakeland & Laura are the best places to stock up before heading on. From Cooktown north supplies are limited in availability. In Lakeland the General Store has grocery supplies and fuel. On Furneaux Street opposite the Cook Shire Council Chambers is Cooktown Food and Ice Supplies a locally owned and operated wholesale provider. Cooktown Food and Ice Supplies supply fresh product and ice to the ocean fleet as well as the local hotels, resorts, motels and the locals. Seafood direct from the ocean, whilst travelling in the north there is nothing like it. The Cooktown IGA supermarket is also operated by Corrnetts, a Queensland company and employing many local staff. Stock up on locally produced or grown items, fresh fruit & veg, delicatessen items, dairy fresh Cooktown Discovery Festival in June meat or your telephone supplies. Drop in and see the friendly Lakeland General Store, Cornetts

30 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE IGA team or Cooktown Food Supplies staff for local supplies.

Community Swimming Pool Cooktown has a 25-metre community pool located on Charles Street next to the school. For information phone 07 4069 6928.

Waterfalls Trevethan Falls Swimming & Waterfalls

There are several scenic waterfalls in the vicinity of Cooktown all of which make lovely picnic spots. Many of the waterfalls are of major cultural significance so please respect the Traditional Owners’ country. Trevethan Falls is accessed from Mount Amos road and plunges into an idyllic pool.

Little Annan River Gorge is a local’s favourite with many swimming pools and waterfalls cascading down the gorge on the Mulligan Highway. Home Rule Falls is accessed by a walking trail from Isabella Falls Home Rule camping in Rossville and offers safe swimming. Bloomfield Falls with Endeavour Falls are also just a short drive out of Cooktown but swimming is not advised due to crocodiles. Isabella Falls a short drive out of Cooktown towards Hope Vale is a welcome break and offers safe swimming.

Access to some waterfalls will require 4WD. Collect full directions and advice from the Cooktown Visitor Information Centre at Natures Powerhouse see page 20. Endeavour Falls Torch Ginger Endeavour Falls 600 AcresAAcres TranquilTTranquil BushBBushS Settingettttiing | PoweredPoweredC Caravan/Campingaravan/C/Campiing Sit Siteses TOURIST PARK Self Contained Aircon Units | Playground | Laundry | Takeaway Food General Store | Petrol & Diesel | Van Storage | No Pets

c Downunder c Tel (07) 4069 5431 Ice | Large Swimming pool | See live Barramundi & Texas Longhorns

fi ci Pac [email protected] | www.endeavourfallstouristpark.com.au

Endeavour Falls quater page18.indd 1 19/12/2017 9:40:30 AM31 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Driving to Cooktown Outback Inland

Driving to Cooktown on the Mulligan Highway

MULLIGAN HIGHWAY [inland] The Palmer River Goldfield, once Australia’s richest alluvial field, is now a resource reserve Conventional Vehicle managed by QPWS. The discovery of alluvial gold in the Palmer River in 1872 led to Queensland’s The inland route to Cooktown is sealed all the way largest gold rush. It became legendary for its - 330km and less than 4 hours from Cairns. hardships and the large numbers of Chinese miners, which peaked at 17,000 in 1877. A place The route from Cairns takes you over the Kuranda of significant national heritage, the Palmer is Range and away from the coast via Highway 1, the rich in the artifacts of early Chinese mining and Kennedy Highway, to Mareeba where you head lifestyle, and the relics of pioneer technology north on Highway 81, the Mulligan Highway. and settlement. Alternatively, along the coast to / Mossman to take Highway 44 via Julatten to join The former gold field capital of Maytown can the Mulligan Highway at Mt Molloy. still be explored, but it is a 4WD trek of extreme and for experienced drivers only. Once over the ranges, the lush tropical rainforest difficulty More information can be obtained from QPWS is replaced by more open tropical savannah as 4069 5777 or Cook Shire Council 4069 5444. you travel through the tiny settlements common to Cooktown. Lakeland lies in a natural basin formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago. This is Mt Molloy was named after a teamster who a great base to get fantastic coffee, meals, fuel, discovered copper here in the 1880’s. The groceries and fresh snacks from the Lakeland Post Office, in its pretty setting, provides local Coffee House. There are public toilets on the information. The Mt Molloy National Hotel, built highway at the vehicle wash down or at the in 1903, illustrates the township’s historic past. Lakeland Coffee House. Mt Carbine was founded after the discovery of Here the Peninsula Development extensive wolfram deposits in 1890. The small Road heads north and is now sealed community has a roadhouse (best pies in the all the way to Laura, or continue north) and pub. North East on the Mulligan Bob’s Lookout at the top of the Desailly Range Highway, passing the offers spectacular views over remote and Annan Gorge and panoramic savannah stretching as far as the Black Mountain, on eye can see. the last leg of your trip to Cooktown.

32 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Scenic Coastal Route Coastal Route (4WD between Cape Tribulation & Wujal Wujal)

Picturesque waterways, world heritage rainforest, magnificent beaches and rugged mountains make for a magical drive along the coast road to Cooktown. Allow 5 hours from Cairns to enjoy the scenery. Distance approximately 234km (32kms gravel between Cape Tribulation & Wujal Wujal).

From Cairns follow the Captain Cook Highway past Port Douglas, Mossman and on to the – a stunning coastal drive. It is 105km from Cairns to the Daintree Ferry and 51km from Port Douglas.

The road is sealed from the Daintree Ferry, which operates 6am to midnight, 7 days per week, to Cape Tribulation (38kms). This is a spectacular drive through the World Heritage listed rainforests and one of the largest rainforest

Bana Yirriji Art Centre

Located on the banks of the Bloomfield River just below the Wujal Wujal Waterfall. Pacific Downunder

T: 4060 8333 F: 4060 8300 [email protected] | www.wujalwujalartcentre.com.au

Wujal Wujal Silk 33 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Driving to Cooktown Rainforest Coast

wilderness areas in Australia with many beautiful Cultural Centre open Monday-Friday. This rest stops, walking tracks, swimming holes and trip makes a great day out from Cooktown wilderness beaches. down Shiptons Flat Road and the Bloomfield Development Road, sealed from Helenvale all the AfterCape Tribulation take a walk along way to Wujal Wujal. the many unique tropical beaches, ‘where rainforest meets the reef’ at many places along the coast. “I named the north point Cape CREB Track Tribulation because here began all our troubles” to traverse the CREB track and camp wrote Lt. James Cook in 1770 after his ship, the Permits HM Bark Endeavour, foundered on a reef north of at the falls are required from Jabalbina Yalanji Bloomfield River. Aboriginal Corporation on 07 4098 5500. Check with Douglas Shire Council for track closures on Emmagen Creek is a popular picnic spot and 07 4099 9444. a great photo stop. AfterSouth Cowie Beach you will come to a unique bridge at Woobadda Creek. Take care in crossing the Cowie and Bloomfield Falls Donovan Ranges as there are steep descents. At Wujal Wujal turn left after the causeway and 4WD is preferred beyond Emmagen Creek and drive to the Bloomfield Falls car park, then a 500m the route often closes during the wet season. walk to the falls. The falls are especially spectacular Best information on current road conditions after the wet season. is available from operators north of the Bloomfield River. Swimming is not advised due to the possibility of crocodiles in the Bloomfield River below the falls This very scenic road takes travellers on an and Aboriginal cultural concerns. amazing journey to the Aboriginal community of Wujal Wujal and villages of Ayton, Rossville You can also reach Bloomfield Falls from the and Helenvale onto Cooktown. Stop and take coastal route between Cooktown and the Daintree. time to visit the wonderful Bana Yirriji Art & Turn off just south of Wujal Wujal Community.

Cape York’s Most Iconic Pub and Campground Riverside Camping Powered & Non-Powered Safari Tents Dog Elevated, sleeping 2-8 people Friendly! Meals 7 days/incl all day pizza menu Live Entertainment Fuel & Ice Coffee Swimming Souvenirs

Ph (07) 4060 3911 | www.lionsdenhotel.com.au | Bloomfield Track, Helenvale - 4km from Cooktown Hwy

34 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Cooktown Mt Bike Rally Rainforest walks from Mungumby Lodge

Lions Den Mungumby Valley Helenvale The Mungumby Valley, set on the edge of Black Mountain, Cedar Bay and Ngual Bulal National Built in 1875, the historic Lions Den Hotel is Parks, is a great spot for bird watchers and nature the top place on Shiptons Flat to drop in for a seekers. Mungumby Lodge offers resort style cold drink, a meal or enjoy camping and safe accommodation, a licensed restaurant/bar for swimming in the pristine waters of the little guests and private nature reserve. There are Annan River. several walking trails into the mountainous National Park area behind the lodge. The property The signatures that adorn the wall of the Lions Den is also home to the Bennett’s Tree Kangaroo along stem from an early tradition when some miners with numerous other endemic and rare animals. began leaving their pay packets at the public Sir David Attenborough house, writing how much money they had spent, or filmed sections of the BBC still had, up on the wall. documentary “First Life” There is a private airstrip at Helenvale that is here due to the living fossils available by pre arrangement. found in the surrounding rainforest.

Striped Possum MUNGUMBY LODGE

Great base to explore Cooktown accommodation bungalowngalow eensuitensuite | rrestaurantestaurant& & bbar | swimimg pool dog friendly | walking trails | bird watching | photographer paradise Mungumby Lodge | 388 Mungumby Road | Helenvale via Cooktown | Qld 4895 T : 4060 3158 | F: 4060 3159 | [email protected] | mungumby.com

Mungumby Lodge EC 2017 V3.indd 1 6/02/2017 7:50:37 PM35 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Driving to Cooktown Rainforest Coast

Rossville Black Mountain Unplugged Bloomfield Track, Rossville & Cedar Bay A grass roots festival that is likely to inspire the best of festival goers. Hosted in Helenvale this South of Helenvale lies Rossville, offering a small, low key, fun festival is run by musicians for natural wonderland to explore with its secret musicians and music lovers alike!! swimming spots, amazing diversity of wildlife, and a great bushwalk to Home Rule Falls. The small rainforest community of Rossville holds their community market the second Sunday The remote and beautiful Cedar Bay National of the month, showcasing interesting local Park is of great conservation importance. Its products and tasty fruit and vegetables. mountainous hinterland, almost entirely covered in dense tropical rainforest, is fringed by sandy Wallaby Creek Festival beaches and coral reefs. Described as ‘The Best Little Festival in Australia’ The park is only accessible by boat or on foot, this is a celebration of music and arts in the and is for experienced bushwalkers only. The rainforest, and takes place each September bush track (difficult) is 25km one way and takes in Rossville. 6-8 hours. The walk begins at a couple of points on the Bloomfield road or from Home Rule camp ground . We recommend walkers obtain detailed advice before proceeding, and it is possible to camp overnight at the beach. For boat charters to/ from Ayton/Cedar Bay call 07 4060 8252.

Weary Bay Weary Bay named by Cook is an open, 9km long bay Safari Tents | Non powered sites at the mouth of the Bloomfield River, where you’ll often find the locals wetting a line. The beautiful Caravan/Camping powered sites Weary Bay Beach is an ideal spot for a long stroll or Airconditioned Cabins | 2 bedroom self a leisurely lunch. Access is via Weary Bay Road. contained airconditioned cottage Well equipped Camp Kitchen Why not extend your rainforest coast visit with an enjoyable stay at the Bloomfield Beach Camp, Licensed Restaurant (May-Oct) where you will find budget cabins and safari tent DOG FRIENDLY accommodation, a fully equipped camp kitchen and a seasonal licensed restaurant. On the 2869 Bloomfield Road, Bloomfield corner of Weary Bay Road and a short stroll to the Tel: 07 4060 8207 beach you will find Bloomfield Escape luxury self contained cabins set in gracious gardens. Fishing [email protected] charter with Escape II to the surrounding Coral Sea www.bloomfieldbeach.com.au is available along with safe hire boats to explore the Bloomfield River. 36 Bloomfield Beach 2018.inddCooktown 1 HISTORY • ADVENTURE • 19/12/2017CULTURE 12:14:45 PM Weary Bay Bana Yirriji Art & Cultural Centre with the arrival of the German, Fredrick Bauer, in 1882 who established the Vilele sugar cane Bloomfield Track & Wujal Wujal plantation in the Weary Bay area. A professional gallery space offers visitors a taste of what Wujal Wujal Aboriginal artists have to offer, while a beehive ofpottery, printmaking, jewellery and other arts workshop areas showcase the artists at work – a fantastic opportunity to get to know each individual as Fishing Charters they put their creativity in motion. As a facility Island & Reef Tours that promotes and supports artists and Explore the nearby ocean with its cultural development in the region, you won’t abundant marine and bird life, view be disappointed with this neat package of arts the local coral reef gardens from and cultural learning. the boat or snorkel with a guide to spot turtles, rays and fish. Try Stop and have a tasty lunch at the on-site café your luck with bait or lure fishing and enjoy the beauty of Wujal Wujal. Open Mon- customised to suit your needs. All departures are subject to Fri from 9am till 4pm, free admission. weather, numbers and availablity! Hire Boats Pacific Downunder Ayton Half and full day hire dinghies In 1819 Lieutenant Phillip Parker King, aboard 4.1 and 4.5 with shade canopies. the HMS Mermaid, named the Bloomfield River Explore the beautiful Bloomfield after Lieutenant Bloomfield of the HM 48th River. Guided river tours available. regiment. The life of the Kuku Yalanji people, the Escape II, 9 Weary Bay Road Bloomfield

original inhabitants of the area, was to change bloomfieldescape.com.au | Tel 4060 8346 Pacific Downunder Pacific

Refresh | Replenish | Relax Fully self contained cabins | Air-conditioning | TV | WiFi | Wheel Chair convenient cabin Private Garden setting |Direct phone & Internet | Walk to the beach www.bloomfieldescape.com.au 9 Weary Bay Road | Ayton | T: 07 4060 8346 | [email protected]

37 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Driving to Cooktown Endeavour Valley & Hope Vale

Cape Bedford

Endeavour Valley Tourist Park for access to the Endeavour Falls. Travelling north from Cooktown you will pass Take a bushwalk along the riverbank to see the small village of Marton where there is a tree ferns, elk horns and orchids in their natural boat ramp into the Endeavour River. Just over state, as well as prolific birdlife. Self-contained the Endeavour River bridge past Marton is the air conditioned units, spacious grassed caravan Cooktown airport. and camping sites and a large swimming pool are features of the park. Don’t miss the The secluded Endeavour River Escape camping Texas Longhorns! is a lovely stop on the Endeavour River and caters for everything from tents to big rigs. Enjoy fishing, nature, or simply relax under the star Hope Vale filled night skies. You will pass Barrett’s Lagoon, Hope Vale Aboriginal Community is a permanent freshwater lagoon partially hidden the gateway to a spectacular sand dune by floating waterlily pads, with an abundance of environment. Bird watching along with the flora bird life. Spectacular bluffs and ranges flank the & fauna is exceptional from Hope Vale all the way Endeavour Valley, including Branigan’s Bluff to the coast. Permits are required for the coast. and Mount Rose, an extinct volcano. There is the Hope Vale Arts & Cultural Centre to For warm hospitality, camping, cabins, fuel and see the local art works and learn more about the supplies stop at the Endeavour Falls Tourist people and their customs.El Park, permission must be requested from the im Beach Cooktown North coast (North Shore and Cape Bedford)

38 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE 17 June - 4 August 2020

Join us for 48 days of story-telling, festivities and celebrations across 7 weekends. JUNE 17-21 Endeavour Festival JUNE 26 - 28 Banks and Solander Festival JULY 3 - 5 Something’s Cooking Festival JULY 10 - 12 NAIDOC Week Celebrations JULY 17 - 18 Shipshape Art Festival JULY 24 - 26 Indigenous Regional Showcase AUGUST 1 - 4 Cooktown 2020 River Festival

2018 Discovery Festival 15-17 Program draft only, see website PROUDLY SUPPORTS THIS EVENT June 2018 for latest details and information. www.cooktowndiscovery.com.au www.cooktown2020.com

Have you EXPLORED COOKTOWN lately?

COOK SHIRE COUNCIL is a proud supporter of tourism in our region. www.cook.qld.gov.au

39 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Driving to Cooktown Lakeland & Laura

A winding and bumpy road from Hope Vale Highway and the Peninsula Development Road. passes through white silica sandy hills and heath Although small, it services this busy region and is lands to Elim Beach – home to the Coloured a popular stopping place for travellers and locals. Sands. This is a popular spot, with nice views to Cape Bedford. Here lies North Queensland’s largest solar power generator. The region has become a food bowl The dune formations of the Coloured Sands are producing some of Australia’s best bananas a 300m walk along the beach. Driving on the and tropical produce. The Coffee House and beach is not encouraged and should only be Store is the centre hub of Lakeland roasting undertaken in a 4WD vehicle with extreme locally produced coffee and serving tasty food. caution at low tide. Lakeland Horse Sports host a local annual horse event which is loads of fun for the family and enthusiasts alike. Lakeland Lakeland was first occupied by the Western Yalanji Journey – Laura (2WD Sealed) people. White settlement began with the Palmer River Gold Rush of 1873 and the establishment Laura is 62km from Lakeland along the sealed of a large cattle property known as Butchers Hill to Peninsula Development Road. Laura is well supply meat to the goldfields. worth a visit due to the world famous Aboriginal Rock Art sites. Lakeland was named after William Lakeland, one of the earliest and most prolific prospectors Historic Laura, in the Quinkan Country, was an of the . He prospected with important supply centre for the Palmer River Christie Palmer on the Palmer River Goldfields Gold Rush towns of Palmerville and Maytown in 1873, discovered gold in Coen in 1878, found in the 1870s, and once the terminus for the gold on the Batavia River starting a gold rush Cooktown-Laura Railway, the lifeline of early there in 1892 and discovered wolfram in the settlers in the north. Pascoe River and Iron Range. If you follow the Laura Heritage Trail from the The Lakeland township is located 81km south centre of town you will get a feel for those early west of Cooktown at the junction of the Mulligan years. Relics from the era still remain and you can

Lakeland Coffee House & Store The centre hub of Lakeland, behind the pub. Some of the regions best locally grown & roasted coff ee. Meals, snacks, groceries, fuel and general supplies for travellers and locals. Open 7 Days. T: 4060 2040 | F: 4060 2042 E: Lakelandcoff [email protected]

40Lakeland Coffee House.pdf 1 27/01/2016 1:31:14 PM Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE even experience the confinement of an original RINYURRU (LAKEFIELD) police lock-up building. Visit the old Laura NATIONAL PARK Homestead at nearby OLD LAURA & BATTLECAMP for a taste of our pioneering past.

In the centre of town is the Laura General Store Journey – Old Laura and Battle and Motel. Next door is the Laura Pub for meals, Camp (4WD) refreshments and camping. The Quinkan Cultural Centre displays Aboriginal Culture and the Continuing north from Laura is the Battle Camp pioneering history of Cape York. Road turn-off to Cooktown. This is a beautiful yet rugged 4WD route which passes the Old Laura Homestead crosses the Normamby River and Quinkan Rock Art crosses Isabella Falls. About 140km from Laura Today Laura is best known for its amazing to Cooktown, this very scenic bumpy road is ideal Aboriginal rock art galleries. The Quinkan rock for a day trip from Cooktown or surrounds. 4WD art galleries are now listed by UNESCO as being is recommended due to bumpy conditions and amongst the top 10 rock art sites in the world. water crossings. Guided Aboriginal tours offer interpretation of the different sites. Please be aware that most of these sites are restricted to guided tours only. Pre-book with your accommodation or tour desk to avoid disappointment, alternatively contact the centre directly. QUINKAN REGIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE Laura Races & Rodeo Aboriginal Guided Rock Art Tours The annual Laura Rodeo and Races are the World Class Interpretive Centre premier social events for many people who call Locally owned and operated Cape York Peninsula home. The Horse sports Something for everyone to enjoy are also held over the same weekend, with locals Tours guided by appointment through the most experienced leading and visitors competing in traditional events, Indigenous guides of Cape York. such as the barrel races. See events info, page 45. Tel: 4060 3457 | www.quinkancc.com.au | [email protected]

QRCC_2018.indd 1 14/12/2017Laura 11:56:30 Rodeo AM

41 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Experience Fishing River, Reef & Beach

The Fishing Experience River Fishing Cooktown and surrounds offer excellent Cooktown has the magnificent river systems fishing experiences. From remote freshwater of the Annan and Endeavour Rivers that lay billabongs (sooty grunter, the mighty claim to some of the best fishing in Far North barramundi), rivers and estuaries (barramundi, Queensland. Big barramundi, monster spanish mangrove jack, cod), beaches and headlands mackerel, queenies and trevally are regularly (flathead, trevally, queenfish, mackerel, threadfin caught from the Endeavour and Annan rivers. Let salmon), wharves, bridges and of course the us not forget the mud crabs that inhabit this river reefs and islands (Spanish mackerel, queenfish, in numbers. These pristine jungle-clad rivers barracuda, trevally, cod and coral trout), this with their mangrove-lined estuaries are perfect regions offers the lot. Whether you fish off the for the keen beginner or the most experienced beach or wharf, have your own boat or want angler. Some excellent lure fishing can be found to go on a fishing tour, there are many fishing in the North Arm of the Endeavour River by opportunities, check with the Lure Shop.Wharf casting lures to the numerous snags and fallen giants of the rainforest that litter the waterway. The Cooktown wharf is the social hub of the town where many locals and tourists mix and swap tales of the one that got away. Enormous Boat Ramps Queensland gropers are often seen inhaling You can launch a smaller tinnie at many sites and anglers’ catches, much to the delight of beaches throughout the Cooktown region. Boat onlookers and the displeasure of fishermen. ramps suitable for larger boats and trailers are However, groper should not be targeted as they located at -Wharf area, Marton -Stone are protected! Cooktown Wall, Big Annan Bridge and Bloomfield River.

42 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Experience Wildlife Birdwatching, Crocodiles

Palm Cockatoo Sea Shell Spider Conch Bennetts Tree Kangaroo

Birdwatching Be Croc Wise The Cooktown region has hundreds of endemic Crocodiles occur throughout Cape York and bird species. are important to the ecology of creeks, rivers, wetlands and estuaries. The broader region hosts many migratory birds from New Guinea, SE Asia and as far afield as Whilst called “saltwater crocodiles”, they also Russia. There are birds throughout the region, occur in freshwater throughout the region. with many billabongs providing the wetland Crocodiles can see underwater and have very species such as Magpie Geese, Brolgas and effective night vision. They can stay submerged many other species of waders and forest birds. for an extended time and do not necessarily emit In the rainforest all year round the bird life is visible air bubbles to the surface. It is not possible prolific due to the abundance of food. Twitchers to check for the presence of crocodiles by looking visit our region to spot a broad range of birds at a creek or billabong. from the coastline, the dry country or rainforest. Crocodiles can launch vertically from the water The rainforest has the Victoria Riflebird ,the and can easily scale a river bank for prey. Golden-shouldered Parrot and White-streaked Honeyeater, to name a few. Cassowaries are Human behavior is observed by crocodiles seen in the northern , Wujal and they adapt their behavior. Beware of Wujal, Rossville & Cedar Bay National Park. cleaning fish in the shallows near a boat ramp or taking water from the same place at a billabong. Many tracks and some roads have restrictions. Brahminy Kite Much of our region is pastoral lease or Aboriginal land so please check the detailed guidebooks and/or seek local knowledge (eg. at a visitor center, roadhouse or local council) before proceeding down a track. Estuarine Crocodile

43 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Know the Rules

Roads and Tracks Camping Many tracks and some roads have restrictions. Camping in National Parks around Cooktown Much of our region is pastoral lease or Aboriginal requires a camping e-permit which must be land so please seek local knowledge (eg. at a booked in advance. This ensures you will have visitor centre, roadhouse or local council) before a site prior to arrival. Free camping is available is some areas outside National Parks however proceeding down a track. is not encouraged due to need to proper waste management, toilets and drinking water. Do leave any gates as you find them! Drive carefully! A camping e-permit can be booked or altered online www.qld.gov.au/camping, by phoning 137 468, by the QPWS touch screens, QPWS Fishing Cooktown Tel 4069 5777 or directly from The Lure Shop or Cape York Camping in Cooktown. There are zoning rules in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park (the whole east coast of the Cape) and bag limits and closed seasons can Alcohol Restrictions also apply. Remember to check your marine park zoning map before you head up the river There are strict rules for the carriage of alcohol or along the coast. Get zoning plans and fishing in Cape York communities. See www.olgr.qld. catch limit information from tackle shops, the gov.au/indigenous/alcoholManagementPlans/ for a more detailed map, rules and Lure Shop or visit www.gbrmpa.gov.au and index penalties. Don’t risk it! www.daff.qld.gov.au

Hikers at Archer Point

44 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE 2018 Events Calendar

Cook Shire

Date Event Town Contact

5 March Queen’s Baton Relay Cooktown Cook Shire Council | Ph: 07 4069 5444

19 May Lakeland Horse Sports and Bull Ride Lakeland Erica Addona | Ph: 07 4060 2155

15-17 June Cooktown Discovery Festival Cooktown Cook Shire Council | Ph: 07 4069 5444

29 June – 1 July Laura Rodeo and Races Laura Rodeo: Jenni Sorensen | Ph: 0417 716 835 Races: Ian Adcock | [email protected]

30 June Mungumby Mountain Bike Muster Helenvale Hamish Haslop | Ph: 4060 3158

10-12 August Black Mountain Unplugged Helenvale Gavin Dear | Ph: 4094 1417

22-24 September Cardiac Challenge Cooktown Glenys Duncombe | Ph:4226 6327

28-30 September Wallaby Creek Festival Rossville [email protected]

13-20 October Lizard Island Black Marlin Classic Lizard Island Bob Lowe | Ph: 0428 440 842

10 November Cooktown Races Cooktown Cooktown Turf Club | Ph: 07 4069 5262

Emergency contacts

Emergency Telephone Web

State Emergency Service 132 500 www.emergency.qld.gov.au/ses

Cooktown Hospital 4043 0100

Doctors Surgery 4069 5211

Chemist 4069 5434 www.alivepharmacy.com.au

Fire 000

Police 000

Vet 4069 6608 www.seadogvets.com

Ergon Energy 13 10 46 www.ergon.com.au

Green Tree Frogs

45 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Community Directory Explore Cooktown

Business Telephone Web Page VISITOR INFORMATION Cooktown VIC 4069 6004 www.cooktownandcapeyork.com Page 20 Hema Maps www.hemamaps.com Back Page AVIATION SERVICES Daintree Air 4034 9300 www.daintreeair.com.au Page 5 BUS SERVICES Trans North 4095 8644 www.transnorthbus.com.au Page 7 Cooktown Tours 1300 789 550 www.cooktowntours.com Page 17 ACCOMMODATION IN TOWN Alamanda Inn 4069 5203 www.cooktownalamanda.com.au Page 24 Cooktown Holiday Park 1800 255 162 www.cooktownholidaypark.com.au Page 27 Cooktown Motel 4069 5166 www.cooktownmotel.com Page 14 Cooktown View Apartments 0402 252 372 www.cooktownviews.com Page 7 Peninsula Caravan Park 4069 5107 Page 24 River of Gold Motel 4069 5222 www.riverofgoldmotel.com.au Page 11 Soverign Resort 4043 0500 www.sovereignresort.com.au Page 9 ACCOMMODATION IN SCENIC SURROUNDS Bloomfield Beach Cabins 4060 8207 www.bloomfieldbeach.com.au Page 36 Bloomfield Escape 4060 8346 www.bloomfieldescape.com.au Page 37 Endeavour Falls Tourist Park 4069 5431 www.endeavourfallstouristpark.com.au Page 31 Lions Den Hotel 4060 3911 www.lionsdenhotel.com.au Page 34 Mungumby Lodge 4060 3158 www.mungumby.com Page 35 CAMPGROUNDS Bloomfield Beach Camp 4060 8207 www.bloomfieldbeach.com.au Page 36 Cooktown Caravan Park 4069 5536 www.cooktowncaravanpark.com Page 27 Cooktown Holiday Park 1800 255 162 www.cooktownholidaypark.com.au Page 27 Cooktown Orchid Travellers Park 4069 6400 www.cooktownorchidtravellerspark.com Page 18 Endevour Falls Tourist Park 4069 5431 www.endeavourfallstouristpark.com.au Page 31 Endevour River Escape 4069 5084 www.endeavourriverescape.com Page 27 Lions Den Campground 4060 3911 www.lionsdenhotel.com.au Page 34 Penninsular Caravan Park 4069 5107 Page 23 CAMPING SUPPLIES Cape York Camping 4069 5396 www.ccyc.com.au Page 29 MARINE ACTIVITES OR FISHING SERVICES The Lure Shop 4069 5396 www.thelureshop.net.au Page 43 Escape II 4060 8346 www.bloomfieldescape.com.au Page 37

46 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE Business Telephone Web Page MECHANICAL, TYRE & FUEL SERVICES Cape York Tyres 4069 5233 Page 23 Lakeland Coffee House & Store 4060 2042 Page 40 Lions Den Hotel 4060 3911 www.lionsdenhotel.com.au Page 34 MEALS Annan’s Restaurant - River of Gold 4069 5222 www.riverofgoldmotel.com.au Page 11 Balcony Restaurant - Sovereign Resort 4043 0500 www.sovereignresort.com.au Page 9 Cooktown RSL Memorial Club 4069 5780 www.cooktownrsl.com Page 15 Lions Den Hotel 4060 3911 www.lionsdenhotel.com.au Page 34 Mungumby Lodge | by appointment 4060 3158 www.mungumby.com Page 35 Nature’s Power House 4069 5763 www.naturespowerhouse.com.au Page 20 MUSEUM, GALLERIES & TOURS Bana Yirriji Art & Cultural Centre 4060 8333 www.wujalwujalartcentre.com.au Page 33 Cooktown Tours 1300 789 550 www.cooktowntours.com Page 8 Cooktown History Centre 4069 6640 www.cooktownhistory.org.au Page 16 Escape II 4060 8346 www.bloomfieldescape.com.au Page 37 James Cook Museum 4069 5386 www.nationaltrust.org.au/qld Page 17 GROCERY SUPPLIES Caltex Cooktown 4069 5354 Page 23 Cape York Tyres 4069 5233 Page 23 Cooktown Food & Ice 4069 5220 www.cooktownfood.com Page 30 Cooktown IGA 4069 5633 www.cornetts.com.au Page 8 Lakeland Coffee House & Store 4060 2042 Page 40 HIRE CARS Sovereign Resort 4043 0500 www.sovereignresort.com.au Page 9 REAL ESTATE AGENTS Cooktown Platinum Realty 0428 745 398 www.cooktownplatinumrealty.com Page 29 Cooktown Real Estate 4069 5775 www.cooktownrealestate.com Page 8 SOUVENIRS & SHOPPING Alive Pharmacy 4069 5434 www.alivepharmacy.com.au Page 22 Bana Yirriji Art & Cultural Centre 4060 8333 www.wujalwujalartcentre.com.au Page 33 Caltex Cooktown 4069 5354 Page 23 Cape York Camping 4069 5396 www.ccyc.com.au Page 29 Croc Shop 4069 5880 Page 17 James Cook Museum 4069 5386 www.nationaltrust.org.au/qld Page17 Lakeland Coffee House & Store 4060 2042 Page 40 Nature’s Power House 4069 5763 www.naturespowerhouse.com.au Page 20 The Lure Shop 4069 5396 www.thelureshop.net.au Page 43

47 Cooktown HISTORY • ADVENTURE • CULTURE SafeSafe journey journey ......

HemaHema Explorer Explorer App App

TheThe ON ON and and OFFLINE OFFLINE GPS GPS NAVIGATION NAVIGATION APP APP forfor touring, touring, four-wheel four-wheel driving driving and and camping. camping.

AvailableAvailable on on iOS iOS and and Android Android

HemaHema Navigator Navigator ONON AND AND OFF OFF ROAD ROAD NAVIGATION NAVIGATION PreloadedPreloaded with: with:

STREETSTREET NAV NAV

4WD4WD NAV NAV &&

VisitVisit www.hemamaps.com www.hemamaps.com for for more more information information or or to to find find your your nearest nearest dealer dealer