Unlocking Potential
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UNLOCKING PERU’S POTENTIAL While wine might be a second choice drink for many Peruvians, there is a ground swell of support to develop Peru as the ‘worlds next big wine region’. 32 WINESTATE March/April 2017 Opposite Page from top to bottom: Street vendor at Pisac Market, multi-coloured corn, Misto Volcano viewed from Arequipa. Top: Colourful potato vendor. WINSOR DOBBIN PERU is one of the hottest gourmet destinations “It’s such an interesting country with great There are also around 80 small “artisan” on the planet, but cocktails overshadow wine winemaking potential.” wine producers and very good local beers, as the preferred drink for chic locals. The coastal plains around the city of Pisco with Cusquena and Cristal the mainstream No fewer than three Peruvian restaurants are the heartland of Peruvian wine production. favourites along with several craft options, were listed in the top 30 in the world in 2016 Around 220km south of Lima, Pisco is located including those made from quinoa. The - all in the capital of Lima - and fusion cuisine in the centre of Peru’s Pacific coastline. On first vines were brought to Peru shortly from the South American country is all the either side are the towns of Canete, Chincha, after its conquest by Spain, and there were rage in London and New York. But while Ica, Moquegua and Tacna, regarded as Peru’s several vineyards in the 16th and 17th wines from neighbouring Argentina and viticultural centres. Ica, known locally as “Land centuries, although the boom was ended Chile have made a major impact around the of the Sun”, is an oasis of fertile land on the by an earthquake in 1687. There have globe, wines from Peru are rarely exported northern edges of the Atacama Desert. only been sporadic revivals since. No one despite the country’s immense potential. The grape varieties used in Peruvian is likely to visit Peru purely to try wine, but Lots of Peruvians prefer the national drink winemaking are those best suited to warm- this rising star of tourism in South America, of pisco to wine, with the clear grape brandy climate viticulture, including grenache, is one of the most diverse and exciting often served as a pisco sour cocktail. tannat, petit verdot and malbec, alongside destinations. From ancient Inca civilisations Many of the grapes grown domestically cabernet sauvignon among reds, and to the rainforest jungles of the Amazon, to (estimated at up to 90 per cent) are used whites, including torontel (known as torrontes the desert wilderness of high-altitude Andean to distil pisco, rather than for wine. So while in Argentina), sauvignon blanc, chardonnay villages and the colonial European-style gourmets flock to restaurants like Central, and various muscats. Pisco, which has been architecture in cities like Lima and Arequipa, where Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon’s food described as being similar to Italy’s grappa, Peru is a world in one country. was ranked No.4 in the world last year, to is also claimed by neighbouring Chile. There Whether you are a wildlife lover, gourmet, 13th-ranked Maido and to 30th-ranked are various theories of origin for the name walker or history lover, Peru offers a range Astrid y Gaston, they almost certainly won’t pisco, but the brandy is exported with far of different and often offbeat experiences. be drinking Peruvian wine. more success than the country's wine, and Machu Picchu, the Hidden City of the That is despite Adolfo Hurtado, chief it can be hard to find Peruvian wine at all Incas high in the Andes Mountains, is one winemaker at leading Chilean wine producer outside sophisticated major cities like Lima, of the greatest destinations - a fixture on Cono Sur, having told Drinks Business that Cusco and Arequipa. The cabernets and many travellers’ bucket lists, but Peru is full he believes Peru has the potential to be the sauvignon blancs of Tacama are among the of alluring attractions depending only on world’s next big wine region and is looking easiest to find (the tannat/petit verdot blend your focus and fitness. Peru is bordered by for vineyard land. “Peru has no frost and is very good), along with Ocucaje and Vista Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Brazil and in many parts is desert-like and dry, the Alegre. Intipalka wines, made by Santiago Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south. Here same as northern Chile,” Hurtado said. Queirolo, are considered among the best. are some “must do” experiences: March/April 2017 WINESTATE 33 Unique food Peruvian food is on the rise, with three eateries ranked in the top 30 in the world and in addition to the star names, flamboyant chef Gaston Acurio, known for his fusion food, has affordable offshoots called ChiCha in Cusco and Arequipa. Visitors must try indigenous Peruvian ingredients like quinoa, maca, chilli peppers, Lima beans, native fruits and dozens of varieties of corn, as well as traditional favourites like guinea pig (best sampled in the small village of Lamay) and alpaca. Lake Titicaca Well worth a long trip, this huge lake straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia in the Andes and is one of South America’s largest lakes. It is regarded as the world’s highest navigable body of water. Take a charter boat from Puno to the “Floating Islands”, as the Uros Islands are known. These are man- made islands constructed out of reeds where villagers take the many visitors on short canoe rides and try to sell them locally-made goods. Further into the lake you’ll find the small hilly island of Taquile where there are no cars and people still live a traditional lifestyle. Machu Picchu The spectacular and well-preserved UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most famous icons of the former Inca empire. Dating back to the mid-15th century and completely awe inspiring, it is one of the most famous and spectacular set of ruins in the world. It is best to arrive early in the day (stay overnight in Cusco to be just a short bus ride away) to avoid the crowds and come well prepared as there is a considerable amount of walking and climbing involved. Cusco This spectacular city, high in the Andes, is one of South America’s treasures with its many colonial buildings and Inca treasures like the Temple of the Sun and Sacsayhuaman Fortress. A tourist hotspot, Cusco is packed with high-quality hotels like the fabulous JW Marriott, recently named as one of the finest on the continent. The RailPeru Vistadome train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, gateway to Machu Picchu, is a lovely experience with great views and fabulous service, which included an impromptu fashion parade by train staff on our return journey. 34 WINESTATE March/April 2017 Pisac Market Every Sunday members of the tribes of the Sacred Valley of the Incas descend on the small, dusty town of Pisac for the regional market. Many walk long distances wearing traditional costumes to reach the market. The market specialises in fruits, vegetables and meats, along with ceramics and items made of alpaca wool. It is a riot of colour and well worth a visit. Shopping Peru is paradise for bargain hunters, with a huge range of alpaca clothing and quality handicrafts ranging from wood carvings to jewellery, musical instruments and ceramics. Buying local goods at markets like the colourful one at Pisac, or from one of the thousands of roadside stalls, helps families and small producers to gain their modest income. The city of Puno, gateway to Lake Titicaca, is regarded as one of the cheapest places to buy. Arequipa Peru’s second city is often overlooked in favour of more tourist-oriented destinations. That’s a huge pity as Arequipa is a wonderfully cosmopolitan and elegant city with colonial buildings reminiscent of some of the finest cities of Europe. There are superb squares and alleyways with influences of Madrid and Paris, excellent eateries (try ChiCha and La Benita) and magnificent viewpoints. A great city for strolling and/or chilling out for a few days. Opposite Page from top to bottom: Peppers at Pisac Markets, Machu Picchu, Intipalka Chardonnay wine, Pisco Sour. From Top to bottom: Tacama winery, Republica del Pisco bar in Cusco, architecture in Arequipa, Island on Taquile on Lake Titicaka, Guinea pig on a stick from vendor lady in Lamay. No one is likely to visit Peru purely to try wine, but this rising star of tourism in South America, is one of the most diverse and exciting destinations. March/April 2017 WINESTATE 35 Amazon jungle Fly to Puerto Maldonado in the remote province of Madre de Dios, then take a motor-powered canoe up the Tambopata River into the Amazon basin, where there are several national parks and reserves for walkers and eco tourists. The Amazon is home to pink dolphins, jaguars (rarely seen), ocelots, giant river otters (which we did sight), several species of monkeys, 4000 types of butterflies and one-third of the world’s 8600 bird species, including very vocal macaws. You can fish for piranha in the oxbow lakes. Stay in comfortable camps, reached only by water, like Posada Amazonas and Refugio Amazonas, where the only power is provided a few hours a day by generators as you sleep under mosquito nets. Lima The sprawling Peruvian capital is where you will probably start and end your trip. Allow lots of time as the locals laugh that “rush hour lasts most of the day”. Miraflores is the cosmopolitan and very safe quarter in which most of the international hotels are based and is home to the Huaca Pucllana pyramid remains (you can dine overlooking the illuminated ruins), the green oasis of Parque Kennedy, something of a community hub, and the modern Larcomar entertainment and restaurant complex.