The

An Arcadian Spring

A Greentours Trip Report

2nd – 16th April 2009

Led by Chris Gardner & Stefano Doglio

Please note - the following report has not got a systematic list of the flowers encountered however there is plenty of detail within the daily accounts of those.

Day 1 2nd April UK to

Greek air traffic control and transport hiccups meant a delayed arrival at our hotel, but since our stomachs were still on UK time this didn’t affect dinner and we enjoyed a good meal near Ancient Korinth.

Day 2 3rd April To Yefira via Mycenae

There was time to see the Corinth Canal before beginning the tour proper after a bit of a detour to the ancient site of Mycenae which was extremely busy today. Nonetheless it was still swathed in flowers with wide open pink Tragopogon porrifolius, tumbling masses of purple Vicia villosa and yellow Melilotus graecus. Wedged into crevices in the rocks were lovely lilac Campanula andrewsii and the handsome yellow and orange tubular flowers of Onosma frutescens. Rock Nuthatch sung from boulders as we wound our way up into the site past hoards of students who were not the least interested in the flowers. The black and white centres of Papaver apulum were distinctive as were the wavy edged leaves and pale yellow spires of Verbascum undulatum. A little way from the main site is the Treasury of Atreus with its impressive beehive tomb, but we spent our time on the adjacent slopes first finding a superb colony of big Barlia robertiana and many fine Muscari comosum lower down and then on top a scattered colony of Ophrys sicula and lovely Ophrys argolica.

From Mycenae we drove south for an hour and stopped beyond Tripoli in an area of turf and scrub where there were plenty of fine Iris unguicularis (cretensis), dark purple Muscari commutatum, and black and green Widow Iris Hermodactylus tuberosus and as we disembarked a Short-toed Eagle soared overhead. We enjoyed a good picnic and before we left a couple of fresh Ophrys ferrum- equinum were found to help the orchid count along.

However, an impromptu stop for big drifts of ‘pink’ produced several more orchids too. The pink was in fact Saponaria calabrica and it was flowering in great billowing drifts on the recently burnt over ground. Various bee orchids were also found as we looked around with singles of Ophrys speculum, tenthredinifera and ferrum-equinum. Unfortunately all of this meant we did not have enough time for our last stop where there were many Ophrys scolopax ssp. cornuta and more

1 speculum, together with Orchis papillionacea and tridentata and a scattering of Tulipa goulymyi. We planned to return here another day to spend more time.

We settled in at our comfortable hotel before another filling Greek meal as the waves lapped lazily on the shore with the looming silhouette of behind them.

Day 3 4th April Monevasia and Lira

The weather forecast was completely wrong and we had good sunshine all day and no sign of rain. Even around our hotel there were many colourful flowers with deep pink Malcomia maritima and bushes of yellow Medicago arborea. We made the short drive to the restored town of Monemvasia and all of us set off on the not too strenuous climb up to the old city passing through the labyrinth of alleyways and terracotta roofed houses up to viewpoints across the round domed churches and distant Aegean. All around was a profusion of flowers with dazzling displays of yellow Argyranthemum coronarium, Centranthus ruber, big bushes of Euphorbia dendroides, the white spires of Reseda alba and stands of pale lilac Knautia integrifolia. Blue Rock Thrushes sang and glided across on display flights as we climbed higher to the old church where a couple of Hoopoes were feeding. Better still as we moved towards the summit a migrating Wryneck perched obligingly in a bush for good views. The floral masses continued all the way to the top were they were joined by a couple of flowering spires of Giant Fennel Ferula communis. Several Wall Browns were actively chasing each other around in the warm sun and as we took in the views of hazy hills fading into the deep blue sea a Peregrine Falcon began dive-bombing a couple of passing Ravens eventually passing quite close to us.

On our way back a male Blue Rock Thrush sang from the top of the church, his deep blue plumage contrasting beautifully with a tuft of bright pink Malcomia maritima sprouting from between the tiles. Most of us took an alternative route back passing through dense herbage with masses of Vicia villosa and stands of Argyranthemum coronarium finding also the handsome pink and purple flowers of Pisum sativum before descending again to the town.

By now Monemvasia was busy as the weekenders arrived en mass but we’d enjoyed it in virtual solitude and our picnic was in an equally peaceful location about half and hours drive to the south west. We stopped among an area of acidic sandstone were there was a shrubbery of strawberry trees and tree heather and many wonderful flower filled meadows. Tall Serapias vomeracea were everywhere along with the vivid red of Anemone pavonina and wiry stemmed Campanula spathulata. More thorough searching produced a few good Tulipa goulymyi and many more orchids with Serapias lingua, Orchis quadripunctata and the odd Ophrys fusca ssp leucadica. Bushes of blue flowered Globularia alypum grew around our picnic place and afterwards we explored a little further finding more lovely meadows and many more orchids including thriving populations of Ophrys ferrum- equinum, luteu, sicula, a few Ophrys tenthredinifera and many more Orchis quadripunctata. One sunny dry bank also held a colony of mainly pink Anemone coronaria quite distinct from pavonina with its finely dissected bracts and leaves. A Powdered Brimstone fed for a time on some nearby flowers.

There was still time to cross over towards Neapoli where we stopped first for an area of mainly cistus scrub with many Ophrys scoloax ssp. cornuta and some good Tulipa goulymyi together with the odd Serapias parviflora and the unusual parasite Cytinus hypocistus. Turning back we stopped for some more good flowery moments with meadows full of Lupinus angustifolius and Campanula

2 spathulata and then a bank swathed in Malcolmia maritima and a tall pale yellow Verbascum. Finally, we stopped at a small spring where the cascading waters were busy building tufa rock so beloved of alpine gardeners. A nearby cliff-face held a population of Stachys chrysanthus and there was also the bicoloured pea Lathyrus clymenus and a Cetti’s Warbler belted out its song from close by.

Day 4 5th April Limenas Geraki

Although it was largely overcast it was also quite warm as we began what turned out to be an amazing orchid day with at least eighteen taxa seen (depending on your point of view). First we drove to the saline lagoon at Limenas Geraki passing along the rocky coast then turning inland to reach the lagoon. Around its shores was a mixture of scrub and grassland and we searched two main areas on either side of the waters. The first was quite scrubby with only the odd Serapias parviflora and Ophrys scolopax ssp. cornuta as well as one Orchis italica and a Serapias vomeracea. Yellow flowered Parentucellia viscosa grew by the roadside and there were lilac-blue Erodium gruinum and a pink bartsia Parentucellia latifolia. On the other side of the waters we explored an area of meadows where there were quite a few Serapias orientalis and some lingua mingled in with plentiful pale blue Linum bienne. However, in the shorter turf and stony areas adjacent to the saline water was a bonanza of orchids with a colony of Ophrys ferrum-equinum, a few good clumps of Ophrys speculum and many Serapias including one parviflora. Richard and Hanna also found our first Ophrys umbilicata ssp. attica. Small Heath was one of the few butterflies on the wing and the birdlife on the lake was also quiet with just a resident pair of Mute Swan, Grey Heron and Little Egret, although a Short-toed Eagle did hang in the air for a while in the distance.

From here we drove a short way to our lunch spot where there we some superb cerise-flowered Cyclamen peleponesiacum growing among the rocky scrub. Colonies of Serapias lingua were also here and there with pink Anemone pavonina and electric blue Bellevalia dubia. There were also a couple of Neotinea maculata (Orchis intacta) and Janet found our first Fritillaria messanensis hidden away in the scrubby terraces, but better ones were to follow, but not before we’d stopped for a fine colony of Orchis italica clinging to a roadside bank (and a female Black-eared Wheatear as we left). We climbed into some thorny terraces to look for flowers finding a solitary Orchis lactea, Ophrys ferrum- equinum, Orchis quadripunctata and a very nice Fritillaria messanensis. However, just below was a superb group of the latter including a twin-flowered specimen.

The clouds were gathering somewhat as we left, driving only a few kilometres before Richard spotted a tall Barlia robertianum in an area of stony turf. Closer examination of the site revealed a hitherto unknown orchid paradise with a staggering fourteen taxa scattered about the field together with good stands of Widow Iris Hermodactylus tuberosus. There were patches of delicate Ophrys umbilicata ssp. attica mixed in with plentiful Ophrys fusca (of at least two forms), sicula, tall deep pink sepalled ferrum-equinum. Elsewhere were colonies of Orchis quadripunctata, italica and lactea, a scattering of Ophrys speculum, tenthredinifera and scolopax ssp. cornuta and then Hanna found a lovely Ophrys sphegodes ssp. aesculapii. A few Ophrys lutea rounded things off at this remarkable location!

There was still time for some more excellent orchids at our last stop among some broken rocky scrub where among the abundant Cyclamen peleponesiacum were some very good pale yellow Orchis pauciflora, the best Ophrys tenthredinifera we’d seen and eventually some half decent Man Orchids

3 Aceras anthropophorum. It was getting quite cold by now and the rain beginning to strengthen so all that was left was to make for the hotel and a lengthy checklist session!

Day 5 6th April Mystra and the Lagada Pass

We left the pleasant hotel at Yefira and drove north towards Sparti stopping a few kilometres before to look at a colony of Pink Butterfly Orchid Orchis papilionacea. A few Serapias lingua were thrown in along with some fine flowering bushes of Lavandula stoechas and Muscari comosum. A herd of hungry sheep appeared at the top of the slope and for a time eyed the tasty orchids at our feet but then moved off into the olive groves instead. In the meantime Richard had found a perfect spike of Ophrys argolica on the other side of the road growing with a couple of Ophrys tenthredinifera.

At Mystra we arrived at the upper gate and then split into our various groups with some climbing up to the fort and others wandering down through the extensive site to look at the restored and unrestored churches and their frescoes. Everywhere was very flowery with banks brimming with red Anemone pavonina, mauve Lunaria annua and assorted vetches and yellow brassicas. Shady areas held thriving colonies of Saxifraga graeca with airy sprays of starry flowers. It was quite warm and butterflies began to appear with Scarce Swallowtail, Clouded Yellow, Holly Blue and Eastern Dappled White. Ivan and Janet had also seen Large Tortoiseshell and Comma. Eventually we all met up at the lower gate where Blue Tit and Goldfinch were flying to and fro and Cetti’s Warbler singing at intervals from cover.

From Mystra a winding mountain road cuts through the Lagada Gorge cloaked with areas of Grecian Fir Abies cephalonica and the streams that pass through are lined with magnificent stands of Oriental Plane Platanus orientalis, their thick trunks wrapped in green moss. Our lunch was taken in an idyllic spot among these trees with plentiful two-tone pink Cyclamen peleponesiacum and light blue Anemone blanda emerging from among the thick layer of plane tree leaves. There was also a fair smattering of Early Spider Orchid Ophrys sphegodes growing both beneath the trees and along the roadside. Delicate drifts of Malcolmia bicolour, purple Arabis verna and sweet-scented Viola odorata knitted the ensemble together. It was a delightful spot for a birthday picnic for Janet complete with very sticky baklavas.

All that was left was to cover the rest of the distance between here and Koroni, first descending down into a deep gorge then up again, stopping at a view point before descending finally to . To break up the journey we stopped for ice-creams in the village of before the last stretch and arrival at our pleasant beach front hotel. A delicious sea food meal was enjoyed in Koroni, where the restaurant cooked up one huge fish for all of us polished off with a splash of potent ouzo.

Day 5 7th April Kaplani

Overnight thunder had come to nothing and by morning the clouds were disappearing fast to reveal a clear blue sky. Early birders found Woodchat Shrike, Sardinian Warbler, Greenfinch, heard Nightingale and then rounded things off with a Wryneck before breakfast. The day was to be spent in the orchid paradise that is Kaplani, but not before we’d stopped for an impressive display of bright yellow Calycotome villosa that was covering a hillside. Along the roadside was plenty Honeywort Cerinthe major, Tragopogon porifolius and Ophrys mammosa showing all the necessary

4 bumps and characteristics. Three Woodchat Shrikes appeared perching on the taller shrubs and chasing one another. Tucked away along a small track was a couple of Orchis papilionacea and as we returned to the vehicles a Short-toed Eagle and Black Kite soared overhead. Just beyond the little village of Kaplani we ventured up a dirt track to a small church and here spent the rest of the day among thousands of flowers. The complex of meadows, olive groves and garrigue produced a fantastic array of plants and these in turn drew some interesting butterflies. Our first meadow held plenty of the pale pink form of Orchis papilionacea and along a little side path a small open area had many bee orchids with Ophrys ferrum-equinum, Ophrys bombyliflora and singles of Ophrys umbilicata ssp. attica and Ophrys lutea plus the odd Orchis italica. The whole collection was bound together by a wonderful display of twinning Vicia melanops with its green and black flowers. Indeed vetches dominated large areas with abundant Vicia villosa and yellow Melilotus graecus sharing the stage with the equally common Argyranthemum (Chrysanthemum) segetum and pink Crepis rubra. Another meadow had plenty of Ophrys tenthredinifera in various forms with pink to near white sepals. Here too were many Serapias vomeracea, Ophrys bombyliflora, Ophrys ferrum-equinum and Orchis papilionacea growing among many blood-red Asparagus Peas Tetragonolobus purpureus. Butterflies on the wing included Clouded Yellow, Wall Brown, Brown Argus, Orange-tip and, while we ate lunch, both Swallowtail (ovipositing) and Scarce Swallowtail, the latter posing very well for photographs, came past. Stefano captured a superb adult Glass Lizard when he went to find Hannelore who was immersed in orchids somewhere and two Peleponnese Wall Lizards scurried about near the little church as we ate.

After lunch it was much of the same with thousands of orchids scattered among a large area of garrigue with new additions being Ophrys fusca ssp. funerea, Serapias lingua and Ophrys scolopax ssp oestrifera, however there were also good populations of Orchis italica and many, many Orchis papilionacea and Ophrys tenthredinifera. Some interesting caterpillars were found along with a Cleopatra, Mallow Skipper and another Glass Lizard before we left. There was a brief stop in the village to photograph the church and big plane tree and then we returned to Koroni thoroughly orchided-out!

Day 6 8th April Methoni

A perfect clear sunrise suggested another sunny day and we enjoyed near cloudless blue skies all day. Our first location was the impressive castle at Methoni whose thick walls enclosed a large area of grassland full of now familiar herbs with fine stands of Tragopogon porrifolius and many different species of legume including Asparagus Pea Tetragonolobus purpureus, Lotus cytisoides and Lotus edulis. The castle walls overlooked the azure Med and at the far end of the complex was a causeway and tower built by the Turks when they occupied Greece in the nineteenth century. Swallowtails cruised about the site, the odd one alighting temptingly for photographs and there was a Mallow Skipper, Peloponnese Wall Lizards and good patches of lilac Orobanche ramosa parasitising the Bermuda Buttercup.

North of Methoni lies the large lagoon at Gianolova where we parked under some eucalyptus trees for lunch. Exploration of the surrounding area before and after produced a few Serapias parviflora and one Ophrys ferrum-equinum type orchid whilst in the concrete lined ditches were some beautifully marked European Pond Terrapin. Three Hermann’s Tortoises were found including one feisty male that hissed and thrashed about when I picked him up, making for some good ‘action’

5 shots – if that’s possible with a tortoise. Birdlife had been quiet, but after we drove around to the other side of the lagoon this picked up with several Kentish and Little Ringed Plovers, Green Sandpiper, Wheatear, Stonechat, Tree Pipit and a Fan-tailed Warbler or Zitting Cisticola bouncing across the marshes uttering its characteristic ‘zitting’ call. Many more terrapins were in the large dykes and another was seen well, hauled out on a bank.

Orchids had been thin on the ground today so in order that some might get a ‘fix’ for the day we stopped in an area of sloping garrigue where there were at least ten species including Anacamptis pyramidalis, Ophrys fusca, Ophrys ferrum-equinum, Orchis papilionacea and some rather small Serapias vomeracea (some may regard these as bergonii). One or two brick-red flowers of Linum hirsutum were also open but perhaps the most striking flower of the day was seen as we drove back when we saw a superb colony of impressive Astragalus lusitanicus along the roadside, pulling in at a goat farm much to the annoyance of a nervous looking pooch.

Day 7 9th April Ambelokipi and Mount Lykodimo

Another glorious day with sun drenched flower-filled hillsides and olive groves our constant landscape. En route we stopped to watch a magnificent Short-toed Eagle circling slowly over our heads and the raptors continued at our next stop where we saw a migrating Osprey that was mobbed by a Sparrowhawk as it spiralled upwards. We had stopped in an area of sandy rocks where the impressive legume Astragalus lusitanicus lined the road with their large creamy-white flowers and swollen seedpods. Close by was an area of old gravel pit with large colonies of blue Lupinus varia smothering the ground and many Serapias lingua and vomeracea together with some weird hybrids and a single Ophrys argolica. A superb form of Iris germanica was in full flower and fully worthy of a horticultural medal. John found the first Green-underside Blue of the trip.

After a bit of a wrong turn we eventually found the junction we needed, only two hundred metres from our last stop (!) and we set about exploring the area, gradually turning up a top notch selection of flowers with wonderful specimens of Ophrys mammosa ssp herae, more fine argolica and other familiar species including lutea, sicula, scolopax ssp cornuta and ferrum-equinum. Butterflies were hotting up too with Green Hairstreak, Swallowtail, Cleopatra and Holly Blue. However, the butterfly of the day followed lunch when we spent some time in a secluded little meadow where there were a number of pristine Southern Festoons flitting about their larval food plant Aristolochia longa. Tall Fritillaria messanensis and green sepalled Ophrys umbilicata ssp attica were also there.

The road continued through small villages around the base of Mount Lykodimo eventually climbing up via a rutted track towards a large radio mast installation. We decided it was best not to go all the way to the masts in case they were military, but we didn’t need too anyway as there were so many good things lower down with many perfect spires of Ophrys sphegodes ssp aesculapii, short turf full of Ornithogalum, Anemone pavonina and Ranunculus millefolia, the former proving very attractive to some enormous bees with yellow banded thoraces. Large Tortoiseshell and the caterpillars of Glanville Fritillary were found as were a few flowering Orchis provincialis with characteristic spotted leaves and pale yellow flowers.

It had been a rewarding day in the hills and all that was left to do was find an ice cream shop, which we did in Nea Koroni, to round off the day.

6 Day 8 10th April To Kalavrita via Menalon

We were away at nine o’clock after I’d relocated my sunglasses half buried in the sand on the beach. Driving north we followed the main road towards Tripoli stopping midway up a steep switchback climb for an area of grassy terraces. Hidden among the herbage, that included Bythinian Vetch, was an excellent selection of orchids with Ophrys spruneri, argolica, lutea and three lovely reinholdii with their characteristic white macular mark. Ivan found a Green-underside Blue but the windy conditions made photography a challenge.

Another hour and half and we arrived on the slopes of Mount Menalon, pulling up beside a large walnut orchard for lunch. Scattered throughout the stony slopes were many orchids with pristine specimens of Ophrys sphegodes ssp aesculapii and sicula and wonderful scarlet drifts of Anemone pavonina, mixed in with deep purple Vinca herbacea and golden-yellow Euphorbia rigida. Pretty little blue-flowered Anchusa cretica was peppered all over. As we were engrossed in these beauties a Short-toed Eagle cruised over and there were very small Small Coppers, Blue Tit and Cirl Bunting before we left.

The road now wound into the centre of Arcadia with neat villages with terracotta roofed houses and pencil cypresses and rolling forested hills. Turning off onto a scenic back road we stopped in an area of plane tree woodland and meadows dominated by pretty pink Geranium brutium, Anchusa cretica and Ornithogalum sp and where several dazzling Grecian Coppers were zipping about, stopping occasionally for the chance of a photo. Southern Festoon and Orange-tip were also about as were two Large Tortoiseshells when we stopped for one of our village scenes. We wound our way up to the big view, arriving to see the snow-capped Mount Chelmos and other Peloponnese peaks spread out before us with plunging valleys in between. More fascinating though were the industrious Dung Beetles that were busy rolling their precious balls of freshly harvested dung across the road towards hidden burrows.

Day 9 11th April Mount Chelmos

Climbing up from Kalavrita there was light grey cloud hovering above Chelmos and this was keeping the temperature down, so that by the time we reached the ski centre it was decidedly chilly. We spent some time looking on the nearby slopes at the hundreds of closed pinkish-lilac buds of Crocus sieberi wishing they would open. The sun did begin to poke through the cloud, enough to tease some flowers open of these and the large patch of Crocus olivieri we found. There were also Wheatear and singing Woodlarks. Moving down a little we came across a superb patch of both crocuses that were more or less half open and ‘goblet-shaped’, along with many hundreds of Colchicum triphyllum and a smattering of deep blue Anemone blanda. After a time with these the temperature took a decisive tumble and we proceeded down via a very winding mountain road eventually stopping in an area of plane tree woods where there were some very fine Cyclamen peleponesiacum for our picnic lunch. There were also cushions of Aubretia deltoidea and some good Hermodactylus tuberosus. Continuing down through the foothills and past deep gorges we eventually reached sea level before climbing once again up beyond Trapeza along a rough dirt road into an area of conglomerate rock.

7 At the top there was a commanding view of the patchwork of olive groves, orchards and villages and among the scrub a healthy colony of Dactylorhiza romana in both pale yellow and pink colour forms. We all walked down from here with the vehicles following at intervals pausing to admire the superb cushions of pink Asperula arcadiensis that were scattered over the conglomerate cliffs, wedged into crevices and smothered in flowers. There were also beautiful clumps of Aethionema saxatile in white and pink forms and a mixed colony of Orchis italica and Neotinea maculata. Reaching the lower slopes where the village began a flowery meadow was found to be very orchid rich with Ophrys delphinensis, umbilicata ssp attica, spruneri, sicula/lutea, argolica and Barlia robertiana.

Day 10 12th April Mount Klokos and Voudramatis Gorge

Luckily for us the weather forecasters got it completely wrong today and rather than rain we had sunshine all day. Driving south we climbed into the hills for a bit then stopped by a slopping meadow that held some very healthy populations of Barlia robertiana in various colour forms as well as lovely drifts of deep magenta Orchis quadripunctata, quite a few very fine Orchis italica and many Ophrys lutea/sicula. The latter were also very common along a little side track, beautifully backlit along with a pale pink form of Orchis quadripunctata. A Short-toed Eagle passed over quite close and all of our attention on this and the orchids must have bemused the heavily saddled donkey standing tethered in the field, although donkeys must have long given up pondering the vagaries of mankind!

From here we continued to climb and it became obvious that not all was well as the landscape had been obliterated by a huge fire that stretched for many miles in all directions with virtually every pine burnt to death. A depressing sight and the fires had not spared our destination Mount Klokos where all the trees and shrubs had been incinerated. However, there was a spectacular proliferation of mainly deep blue Anemone blanda. We still spent some time here and there were some more good flowers with some decent Scilla bifolia, Arabis caucasica and lovely deep reddish-orange borage species Paraskevia cesatiana which is very rare and restricted to just three mountains in the area. Butterflies were also quite good with many Eastern Dappled White, Gruner’s Orange-tip, Green- underside Blue, an abundance of Small Coppers, a Queen of Fritillary and Small Tortoiseshell. After a sunny picnic sitting on the convenient benches we wandered back down to the road photographing more of the superb anemones and also a large congregation of Glanville Fritillary caterpillars moving about on a large web spun over their food plant Ribwort Plantain.

Descending once again to the coast we then struck inland along a rough track into the Vourakis Gorge, flanked by sheer conglomerate cliffs through which the small railway ran to Kalavrita. It was a charming place with some lovely flowers and many butterflies. We walked up the main track passing, Arum italicum, Man Orchid Aceras anthropophorum and Ophrys delphinensis as well as Mallow Skipper and a huge Egyptian Grasshopper then over the small bridge above the railway tracks that squeezed through the tight walls of the gorge with a large flowering Judas Tree overhanging. A colony of Ophrys umbilicata ssp attica was on the other side as well as some fine stands of Orchis italica. We walked back along the tracks seeing Wood White, Comma, Gruner’s Orange-tip and Speckled Wood. Richard had also seen a Camberwell Beauty cruising about the plane tree woodland. There was time to admire some more splendid examples of Ophrys delphinensis before we left stopping to photograph the gorge and Judas Trees along the way.

8 Day 11 13th April Lake Prokopou

With ominous clouds sweeping across the immediate cliffs and mountains beyond it seemed a good idea to head in the opposite direction so we drove to the far north-western corner of the Peleponese and the large area of wetland around Lake Prokopou, where extensive reedbeds edged much of the water. A stretch of cliffs stretched along one side of the lake and we parked here and spent some time watching the lake and the flowery slopes behind. A female Marsh Harrier appeared almost straight away and there were plenty of Little Egret, a Purple Heron and Coots. Great Reed Warblers and Marsh Frogs competed for the deepest croak and the maniacal cackle of Little Grebe just added to the bizarre sounds. Five Glossy Ibis appeared spooked by the harrier and there were a number of Black-winged Stilts balancing on their spindly red legs. A Dice Snake swan across a small concrete lined pool full of tiny fish, but then Ivan spotted something far more unusual, a Worm Snake that was moving about in the daylight. Another young Dice Snake was caught by Stefano not long after. Sedge Warbler, Black-eared Wheatear and Rock Nuthatch all put in an appearance and there were Scarce Swallowtail, various beetles, chafers and caterpillars and even the twining stems of Periploca graeca with their lovely darkest-purple flowers.

Moving onto an area of shady pines for lunch we also met up with Tristan and his family and chatted about all things natural history, identifying a few of our mystery plants in the process. After lunch we carried on a little further turning off into a pleasant area of oak woodland where we searched in vain for Tree Frogs, but did find three Hermann’s Tortoises and plenty of Marsh Frogs. Beyond this grassy areas under the tall Umbrella Pines Pinus pinea were scoured for orchids finding populations of Serapias parviflora, Ophrys mammosa and at our last stop a single Orchis ustulata. John photographed a Migrant Hawker with a captured beetle and there were several large Balkan Green Lizards rushing through the grass into cover and as we drove the last stretch of rough road five Ferruginous Ducks flew fast across the lake.

On the drive back we passed the impressive new bridge at Rio and arrived at Diakopto to find it had rained a lot there today!

Day 12 14th April Delphi

The promised rain had duly arrived overnight and it was still falling as we drove to the small port at Egio. However, the sea was very calm and soon we were cruising across the sea to the northern part of Greece seeing a solitary Whiskered Tern on the way. The hillsides on the other side were brimming with big flowering bushes of Euphorbia dendroides and masses of Argyranthemum coronarium as we made our way along the coast and then cut inland, climbing the slopes of Mount Parnassos until we reached the extensive ancient site of Delphi. It was very busy when we arrived but we found a sheltered parking spot and prepared the picnic, afterwards exploring the lower part of the site with the Temple of Athena and the Gymnasium where some fine plants of Alkanna orientalis sprouted from the walls and there was plentiful Malva sylvestris, the handsome borage Cerinthe retorta, Knautia integrifolia and various legumes including Melilotus italica and the unusual Coronilla scorpioides.

By the time we reached the upper site the crowds were thinning quickly and it was very pleasant and even the downpour stopped as we walked up past the various treasuries and columns towards the theatre. A Rock Nuthatch was calling and posing obligingly on the ruins and by the theatre was

9 a superb plant of Campanula cf rupicola. Another striking plant was Asphodeline luteus which was common around the site but especially so around the stadium area with some impressive stands. The delicate pink Silene behen also grew here with reddish-veined inflated calyces and pink flowers.

We returned to the port at Agios Nicholas via a scenic detour/wrong turn and the rain abated for much of the crossing as some wonderful sunlit clouds and sunbeams played across the distant hills and even a rainbow appeared as we entered port.

Day 13 15th April Kalavryta orchid meadow and Chelmos

The sun was trying to disperse the cloud as we made a second attempt at the crocus fields on Chelmos but when we arrived, the upper slopes were firmly wrapped in clouds and despite trying other slopes it seemed they were going to stay that way. However, we stopped a bit lower down among the firs where there were masses of the tiny yellow Viola phisanus and the handsome pink Corydalis solida delicately jewelled with water droplets. Coal Tits were very vocal and a Middle Spotted Woodpecker appeared on a dead snag.

We descended into the sunny foothills much closer to the coast where we stopped in an area of flowery slopes with a rushing stream. There were great drifts of delicate white Tordylium apulum and pale blue Linum bienne as many Eastern Dappled Whites and Orange-tips patrolled up and down the track. Wonderful stands of tall, pink Orchis italica stood on top of the banks and there were superb specimens of Ophrys spruneri and delphinensis as well as the very pretty and scarce pink and white Allium trifoliatum. Holly Blue and Common Blue were common along with Small Copper and both Wall and Large Wall Brown and there followed stands of Orchis papilionacea and Ophrys mammosa ssp herae. While we ate lunch a Scarce Swallowtail patrolled the streamside vegetation and there was the fragile paper nest of a Solitary Wasp. We spent a bit more time here after lunch Janet finding a stunning red and black Crab Spider that had captured a honey bee.

We backtracked a little and then turned onto a dirt road that was eventually too much for the vehicles, but we were able to walk on finding a stand of Barlia robertiana, Ophrys delphinensis, a Swallowtail and with some searching a colony of Fritillaria graeca with a few good flowers remaining. Sadly the nearby winery was closed so no tasting today and instead we returned to a sunny Diakopto to relax on our last afternoon.

Day 14 16th April Home

We set off at 8.30am in anticipation of the heavy pre-Easter traffic, which was very evident on the opposite carriageway but we had an easy ride taking only two and a half hours to drive to Athens airport for our various flights home.

10 Systematic List Number 1 Birds

The following lists details all the birds recorded during the trip. Fractions indicate frequency e.g. 3/14, seen three days out of fourteen. LOB = leader only bird

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Lake Prokopou 1/14 Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Lake Prokopou, Monemvasia 3/14 Little Egret Egretta garzetta Common at Lake Prokopou 3/14 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Scattered 2/14 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Lake Prokopou 1/14 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Two at Lake Prokopou 1/14 Ferruginous Duck Aythya ferruginea Five at Lake Prokopou 1/14 Mute Swan Cygnus cygnus A pair at Limenas Geraki 1/14 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus At least three at Lake Prokopou 1/14 Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Scattered, chasing an Osprey at Ambelokipi 1/14 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Widespread and common 9/14 Black Kite Milvus migrans One on migration near Kaplani 1/14 Short-toed Eagle Circaeetus gallicus Widespread and seen well several times 7/14 Osprey Pandion haliaetus One at Ambelokipi on migration 1/14 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Widespread 7/14 Peregrine Falco peregrinus Harassing Ravens at Monemvasia 1/14 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Lake Prokopou 1/14 Coot Fulica atra Lake Prokopou 1/14 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Lake Prokopou 1/14 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Quite a few at Gialova Lagoon 1/14 Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Athens airport 1/14 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Common at Gialova Lagoon, also along coast at Koroni 2/14 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus One at Gialova Lagoon 1/14 Yellow-legged Herring Gull Larus cachinnans Common and widespread anywhere near coast 10/14 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus One on the sea crossing to Agios Nicholas 1/14 Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvichensis A few along coast north of Koroni 1/14 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Abundant 14/14 Scops Owl Otus scops Heard at Koroni and Diakopto 2/14 Swift Apus apus Koroni 4/14 Alpine Swift Apus melba Monemvasia, some nesting in the cliffs 2/14 Hoopoe Upupa epops Widespread, e.g. Monemvasia, Koroni 7/14 Wryneck Jynx torquilla One on top of Monemvasia and another at Koroni 2/14 Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius One in Chelmos woodland 1/14 Crested Lark Galerida cristata Uncommon, Gialova lagoon 1/14 Woodlark Lullula arborea Chelmos 1/14 Swallow Hirundo rustica Common and widespread 11/14 Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Widespread, but uncommon 4/14 House Martin Delichon urbica Common and widespread 9/14 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis One at Gialova 1/14 ‘Yellow’ Wagtail Motacilla (flava) beema Athens airport and scattered elsewhere on migration 2/14

11 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea By streams 4/14 White Wagtail Motacilla alba Scattered 3/14 Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Singing in woods below Chelmos 1/14 Robin Erithacus rubecula Monemvasia 2/14 Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos Singing at Koroni 3/14 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Scattered e.g. Diakopto 4/14 Stonechat Saxicola torquata Widespread 3/14 Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe A few at Gialova Lagoon and on Chelmos 3/14 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica Male at Lake Propopou, females near Lambokambos 2/14 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Common at Monemvasia 2/14 Blackbird Turdus merula Common and widespread 12/14 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Chelmos 2/14 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Heard very often, seen only occasionally 2/14 Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis Seen well at Gialova lagoon 2/14 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Lake Prokopou 1/14 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus Lake Prokopou 1/14 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Common and widespread 12/14 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Scattered, eg. Kalavryta 3/14 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita On passage at Koroni, Diakopto 2/14 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus Scattered 3/14 Sombre Tit Parus lugubris On at Delphi 1/14 Coal Tit Parus ater Chelmos woodland 1/14 Blue Tit Parus caeruleus Scattered 3/14 Great Tit Parus major Common and widespread 9/14 Western Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer Common and widespread in rocky areas and ancient sites 8/14 Jay Garrulus glandarius Common and widespread 12/14 Magpie Pica pica Common and widespread 12/14 Jackdaw Corvus monedula Scattered, Lake Prokopou, 2/14 Hooded Crow Corvus (corone) cornix Common and widespread 14/14 Raven Corvus corax Scattered e.g. Monemvasia 3/14 House Sparrow Passer domesticus Abundant 14/14 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Common and widespread 7/14 Serin Serinus serinus Diakopto, heard at Koroni 4/14 Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Widespread 4/14 Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Common and widespread 11/14 Linnet Carduelis cannabina Widespread 5/14 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus Common and widespread 4/14 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Scattered, e.g. Chelmos 1/14 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra Widespread 1/14

12 Systematic List Number 2 Butterflies

Fractions indicate the number of days a species was seen e.g. 2/14, seen two days out of fourteen.

Swallowtail Papilio machaon Widespread 6/14 Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius Widespread 5/14 Southern Festoon Zerynthia polyxena Ambelokipi, Klokos, etc 4/14 Large White Pieris brassicae Widespread 4/14 Small White Artogeia rapae Scattered 3/14 Green-veined White Artogeia napi Scattered, Mystra and Klokos 2/14 Eastern Dappled White Euchloe ausonia Widespread, probably seen more than recorded 3/14 Orange-Tip Anthocharis cardamines Common and widespread 4/14 Gruner's Orange-Tip Anthocharis gruneri Lira, Mount Klokos, etc 4/14 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea Common and widespread 8/14 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni Widespread 5/14 Powdered Brimstone Gonepteryx farinosa Only at Lira 1/14 Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra Widespread 6/14 Wood White Leptidea sinapis Vourakis Gorge 1/14 Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi Widespread, e.g. Lake Prokopou, Kalavryta, etc 3/14 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas Common and widespread, especially on Mount Klokos 6/14 Grecian Copper Lycaena ottomanus En route to Kalavryta 1/14 Sooty Copper Lycaena tityrus One on Kalavryta road 1/14 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus Widespread 4/14 Green-underside Blue Glaucopsyche alexis Widespread e.g. Ambelokipi, Klokos 3/14 Brown Argus Aricia agestis Common and widespread 6/14 Chapman's Blue Agrodiaetus thersites One on Klokos 1/14 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus Kalavryta road 1/14 Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloros Scattered e.g. en route to Kalavryta, Mystra, etc 3/14 Camberwell Beauty Nymphalis antiopa One in Vourakis Gorge 1/14 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta Common and widespread 6/14 Painted Lady Cynthia cardui Common and widespread 6/14 Small Tortoiseshell Aglais urticae One on Klokos 1/14 Comma Polygonia c-album Scattered 2/14 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia One on Klokos 1/14 Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia Caterpillar swarms on Klokos and Lykodimo 2/14 Meadow Brown Maniola jurtina One at Methoni Castle 1/14 Small Heath Coenonympha pamphilus Common and widespread 5/14 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria Plenty in Vourakis Gorge 1/14 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera Common and widespread 9/14 Large Wall Brown Lasiommata maera Scattered 3/14 Mallow Skipper Carcharodus alceae Scattered 3/14

Hummingbird Hawkmoth Diakopto area Jersey Tiger Kaplani – something close to this species Cream-spot Tiger Lambokambos – something close to this species Lattice Heath Kalavryta road

13 Systematic List Number 3 Reptiles & Amphibians

Yellow Bellied Toad (Bombina variegata) the tadpoles in the ponds at the “Osprey” site near Koroni (day 7) ‘could’ have been of this species, but no guarantee! Green Toad (Bufo (Epidalea) viridis) heard calling almost every night in the garden of the hotel in Diakopto (days 10 to 13). The green toads from Turkey and some Greek sites are now sometimes called Bufo variabilis, if you’re after a Delforge “style” taxonomy. Epidalea is the subgenus (or genus, depending again how much a splitter you are) of the green toads group. Epirus Water Frog (Rana (Pelophylax) epeirotica) and Greek Marsh Frog (Rana (Pelophylax) balcanica) the frogs heard and seen at every suitable site during the trip belong to these 2 closely related species, around Monemvasia and in the East Peloponnese only R. balcanica ‘should’ occur, elsewhere it’s a mixture of the two (with many hybrids). Very common in the freshwater marshes of Kalogria (day 11). Pelophylax is the (sub)genus separating the green/water frogs from the brown frogs (subgenus Rana)

Hermann’s Tortoise (Testudo hermanni) a few seen around the Gialova lagoon (day 6) and 3 in the oakwoods south of Kalogria marshes (day 11) European Pond Terrapin (Emys orbicularis) common and some good views at Gialova lagoon (day 6) Peloponnese Wall Lizard (Podarcis peloponnesiaca) often seen (usually the striped morph) during the trip, particularly common at Mycenae (day 1), the rock of Monemvasia (day 2), Kaplada (day 5) and Methoni fortress (day 6) Balkan Wall Lizard (Podarcis taurica) small green lizard common in the oak and pinewoods of Kalogria (day 11) European Glass Lizard (Ophisaurus apodus) one seen and captured near the chapel at Kaplada (day 5) Worm Snake (Typhlops vermicularis) one found at Kalogria (day 11): the reptile of the tour! Dice Snake (Natrix tessellata) a smallish one found hiding under a stone in Kalogria (day 11)

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