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Home , Amiens, Baie de Somme, Le Crotoy, Saigneville, Somme (river), Woignarue

Section:GDN TL PaGe:6 Edition Date:170909 Edition:01 Zone: Sent at 7/9/2017 17:54 cYanmaGentaYellowblack Section:GDN TL PaGe:7 Edition Date:170909 Edition:01 Zone: Sent at 7/9/2017 17:55 cYanmaGentaYellowblack

The Guardian | Saturday 9 September 2017 The Guardian | Saturday 9 September 2017 6 travel The guide 7 ▼ Bargain hunt ▼ Macron Réderie is the local term for a village car Jean Trogneux is a fi fth-generation boot sale or fl ea market – and there are chocolatier with three outlets in . always pre-loved bargains waiting to be Famous for its marzipan macarons, it is discovered each weekend. Find listings owned by the family of , on .fr/rederies wife of ’s president. trogneux.fr

designed by the writer himself in The area of northern France known for battlefi elds 1889, La Coupole is always buzzing at lunchtime, serving honest brasserie and memorials also has pretty landscapes, unspoilt staples such as steak tartare and a plat du jour for €9. beaches and some of the country’s best cuisine – all • +33 3 22 45 50 10, on Facebook Restaurant de la Basilique, Albert just a short hop from the UK, writes John Brunton It’s diffi cult to fi nd a better lunchtime deal close to the Somme memorials, with two courses for €16 – perhaps rillettes of fresh and smoked salmon or a huge plate of fresh crudités, then steak in maroilles cheese sauce. • +33 03 22 75 04 71, hoteldelabasilique.fr

Baobar, Amiens While the centre of Amiens is pretty Somme quiet, there is an altogether diff erent scene in the more alternative, - side Saint-Leu quarter, where dozens his bucolic region of Chés Troés Piots Coéchons, of bars are packed out most nights. The north-east France is A16 In a quiet village a few kilometres tropical punch at Baobar is lethal, and N25 forever associated Baie de Parc du Marquenterre from the coast, the Three Little is accompanied by a booming reggae with memorials of Somme Pigs restaurant is a brilliant foodie and African beat. the fi rst world war, discovery – though come with a n • On Facebook but it has a more Saint-Valery- appetite as portions can be huge. Cayeux-sur-Mer sur-Somme to off er visitors, from Petit Port Presided over by genial chef Frank Au Repos des Pecheurs, Saigneville T Ault Beaumont-Hamel unspoilt countryside Woignarue A16 Galand, the menu ranges from Off the beaten track in the Somme to quaint coastal resorts that even Long succulent braised hock of ham valley’s maze of lakes and waterways, few French people know about. The A28 Somme Albert Pozières to lamb roasted with thyme and this redbrick cottage has been a Somme is named for its river, with an Mers-les-Bains limefl ower honey or an incredible traditional estaminet tavern for over Ailly-sur-Somme immense estuary where it empties Amiens array of homemade charcuterie. The a century. It has a lovely garden into the Channel. The , A29 tavern doubles as the village shop and overlooking the river, and inside feels as it is known, was where William 10 miles Woignarue’s unoffi cial social centre. like the owners’ living room. the Conqueror gathered his army Unforgettable. • 2 Petit Port, Saigneville before setting off to fi ght the English Cayeux has a long pebble beach lined • Three-course lunch €17, mains €13-21, at Hastings, and today these unique with brightly painted beach huts. The +33 3 22 60 54 84 ches3piotscoechons.fr La Chapelle, Saigneville wetlands off er a host of ecological and faded opulence of Ault’s 19th-century La Chapelle has been a local favourite wildlife holiday activities. Aff ordable villas is overshadowed by the natural Le Saint Pierre, Ault since the day Corinne and Frank accommodation ranges from camping beauty of its towering white cliff s, and Emma and David, the young owners opened its doors. It looks like a and glamping to chic B&Bs and friendly seafront mansions at Mers-les-Bains of this fabulously retro seaside fashionable Parisian wine bar, with family-run hotels. Eating out is also a have been wonderfully renovated. restaurant, have left every detail of not just organic and natural wines, revelation, with the freshest seafood, the 1960s and 70s decor intact, but but regional craft beer and cider, speciality charcuterie and cheeses surprise diners with a menu of fresh accompanied by seafood platters (€25), straight from producers. seasonal dishes at very aff ordable artisan charcuterie and an irresistible Auberge de la Marine, Le Crotoy prices. Start with mackerel marinated honey-roasted camembert (€8). Baie de Somme The formal decor of the Marine belies in white wine and vinegar (€5.90), • lachapelledesaigneville.com the dazzling cuisine of Pascal Lefebvre. followed by a steaming bowl of and the coast Splash out €44 for his six-course mussels with crunchy frites (€8.90) or tasting menu made with products the fi sh of the day – plaice, sole, pollack harvested around the bay: line-fi shed - straight from the fi shing boats of Le Prieuré, Amiens red mullet or John Dory; cockles and nearby Le Tréport (€12-14). An ancient mansion next to Amiens Bay of the Somme ▼ At a gallop … whelks; wild samphire and oreilles de • +33 9 51 70 29 61, brasserie-ault.com cathedral, this smart but aff ordable The vast Somme estuary is an ever- horse riding on cochon (purslane) from low-tide sand hotel is decorated with eye-catching changing landscape as the tides ebb the Baie de fl ats. Pork smoked over pine cones is designer furniture and funky artworks. and fl ow. A three-hour trek across Somme and served with beer-braised endives. • Doubles from €76 room-only, hotel- the bay with a qualifi ed guide (€15 • +33 3 22 27 92 44, aubergedelamarine. La Flibustière, Ault prieure-amiens.com adult, €7 child, promenade-en-baie. at night com The wonderfully eccentric, craft beer- com ) is a highlight of any trip. Locals loving Gerald Pailloux has converted Butterworth Farm, Pozières head out alone foraging, shrimping the front room of his co sy seaside ▲ Front row … Amiens and the upper Biking and boating Amid the battlefi eld memorials, and duck hunting, but the tides can home into La Flibustière, a mariners’ beach huts and The Somme river meanders in its this comfy, purpose-built wooden be treacherous if you explore tout pub whose terrace overlooks Ault’s colourful houses Chambres d’Hôtes Deloison, Saint- Somme valley verdant valley for 70km between Le Retroviseur, Amiens farmhouse is named after a missing seul . Other options include high-tide dramatic white chalk cliff s . Don’t miss at Mers-les-Bains Valery The vast Amiens and the coast. The recently This local institution is classic bistro, all British soldier. There’s a lovely garden canoe trips (adult €35, child €20, a large glass of Page 24, an IPA brewed Sophie and Patrick Deloison run an Somme resurfaced towpath crosses tiny lakes, red banquettes and sepia photos, but and use of the kitchen. mabaiedesomme.fr ), horse rides in the neighbouring Pas de Aladdin’s cave of an antique shop and locks and and makes a great serves delicious modern bistronomie , • Doubles €80 B&B, across the sand (€45pp, henson.fr ), or département. Telephone fi rst (+33 3 two lovingly decorated B&B rooms estuary is Amiens cathedral cycling or walking route. The lock such as seven-hour lamb shank or tarte butterworthfarm.com a more relaxing vintage steam train 60 26 91 22) to make sure Gerald has at the best rates in town. A more chic an ever- The largest medieval cathedral in the keeper’s cottage at Ailly-sur-Somme tatin with thick cream. The lunchtime tour (€14.30/€10.70 return, cfb s.eu ) decided to open that day. He also has alternative, at correspondingly higher changing world, Amien’s immense Unesco-listed was reopened as a tourist offi ce this plat du jour is €10, a three-course meal Ocean Villa, all the way around the bay from Saint- three B&B rooms with incredible sea rates, is Au Vélocipède (doubles €105 Nôtre Dame is about twice the size year, with bikes (some electric) and €25. It also has cocktails, craft beer, DJ Avril Williams has transformed a farm Valery to Le Crotoy. The picturesque views, from €70 a night. B&B , auvelocipede.fr ) which also has a landscape of what locals call “the other one”, boats for hire. sets and live concerts. into guesthouse, tearoom and eclectic port of Saint-Valery has grand seafront • fl ibustiere-nelson.blogspot.co.uk creative restaurant with local products. as the tides in . Gothic sculptures on the • amiens-ouest-tourisme.fr • +33 3 22 91 92 70, leretroviseur.fr museum. Rooms are basic, but guests villas once rented out by luminaries • Doubles from €52 B&B, facade are magnifi cent and there’s a ▼ Pack a punch … can visit a genuine communications inlcuding Victor Hugo, Edgar Degas Hermann, Saint-Valery chambresdhotes.org ebb and nightly sound and light show in Battlefi eld memorials La Coupole, Amiens tropical drinks trench that runs under the house, and Alfred Sisley. This cheese store to die for also has fl ow, and a summer. Visiting the memorials, cemeteries and The original refreshment room of the and hot sounds at restored by archaeologists. Artefacts a gourmet choice of smoked hams, Les Pilotes, Saint-Valery trek across • Adult €6, free Sat and Sun afternoon, museums of the Somme is an intensely splendid Cirque building, Baobar, Amiens found there are on display in the Parc du Marquenterre saucissons and patés, plus a lengthy This old-fashioned guesthouse has cathedrale-amiens.fr emotional experience, and can become tearoom. To the north of the bay lie miles of wine list, with prices the same in the been transformed into a designer hotel the bay is a overwhelming. To get a physical idea • Doubles €90 B&B, avrilwilliams.eu sandy beaches and dunes, and the bar as to take away. This is the magic by Parisian Laurence Gauthier and highlight of The Hortillonages of , begin with the view 2 00-hectare Marquenterre park, where formula of Hermann Etard’s cave à off ers breathtaking views over the Bay Dating from Roman times, the fl oating over the Newfoundland Memorial at Le Presbytère, Saigneville some 300 species of migrating birds manger, where an abundant selection of the Somme. Friday night happy hour any trip gardens of Amiens stretch over 230 Beaumont-Hamel, then head 10km In a quiet village on the Somme river, stop over or nest. Nature lovers can of cheese and charcuterie for two attracts a lively crowd of locals. hectares of reclaimed marshland and a south down the valley to the Somme Sophie and Antoine Leleux have rent binoculars and set off on a 7 km costs €15, with fi ne wines starting at • Doubles €98 room only, lespilotes.fr maze of waterways and lakes. They are Museum in Albert for a harrowing transformed the parish priest’s grand hike, taking in 12 hides with a guide at €9 a bottle the venue for an annual international underground reconstruction of a mansion into a cosy B&B. The brightly each to talk about the birds . • hermann-store.fr Les Tourelles, Le Crotoy exhibition – Art, Ville et Paysages , soldier’s daily life. The Thiepval painted roulottes (Gypsy caravans) at • par cdumarquenterre.fr Across the bay, the distinctive red until 15 October – that blends avant- Memorial to the Missing , designed the end of the garden are excellent for La Buvette de la plage, Saint-Valery towers of cliff -top Les Tourelles garde art and landscape gardens with by Sir Edwin Lutyens, is sombre families with kids. Coastal road trip An idyllic spot for a sunset aperitif, dominate the skyline of sleepy Le extraordinary installations . Some parts and refl ective, and its newly opened • Doubles €70 B&B, caravan €80, The wild coast road running south this casual bar sits right at the end of Crotoy, and this hip hotel off ers a are accessible on foot in the centre of museum looks at the great battle aupresbytere.fr from the bay as far as Le Tréport passes Saint-Valery’s promenade, with tables fi ne-dining restaurant, lounge bar and town, around the Ile aux Fagots; the unconventionally, with a giant black- some wonderfully kitsch seaside towns and deck chairs right on the sand, minimalist rooms. rest can be explored on electric boats. and-white cartoon-style tableau that Car hire and accommodation were where little seems to have changed overlooking the bay. • Doubles from €80 room only, • Boat trip €5.90pp, hortillonages- evokes the Bayeux Tapestry . provided by Somme Tourisme

since the end of the 19th century. • On Facebook lestourelles.com CREDIT XXXX amiens.fr • somme-battlefi elds.com (somme-tourisme.com )

Readers’ tips Winning tip Etangs du Romelaëre, near Saint-Omer Pourville-sur-Mer. Within another throughout the forest, around 5km Atlantic as the sun sets and shadows bank, with grazing cows for company. Send us a tip and win a Alabaster coast, This peaceful wetland in Pas de Calais, mile you’ll fi nd the cliff top fi sherman’s from Blangy-sur-, just off the stretch across the waves. This 20km • visorando.com £200 hotel voucher! Walks in The GR21 from Le Ha vre to Le used by migrating birds, off ers great hut he painted and, inland, the A28 motorway. The route follows a section is easy, if windswept at times. kglover northern Tréport takes in Normandy’s classic walking all year round. Footpaths and Manoir d’Ango at Varengeville and the pretty track before descending to the funinfi nland Next week: activities in Colroado coast, countryside, architecture and signage were updated last year, and graveyard where Braque is buried. village of Mienval then joining a tiny Morsalines, Cotentin peninsula France second world war sites. From now there’s a 4.5km route that’s easy John Pelling road back to the start. Seine walk from Les Andelys From Morsalines, we walked south, Post your tips on our GuardianWitness See GuardianWitness head to the beautiful port town of for children, or a 10km walk. Watery Dave Leggett For a four-hour walk that clears your with satisfyingly bleak views of the website witness.theguardian.com for terms and conditions. The closing Fécamp, passing stunning white cliff s, refl ections make great photographs. Forêt d’Eu head, opens up superb countryside wide horizon, then scrunched over low date for tips for next vistas painted by Monet at Étretat and • reserves-naturelles.org The Foret d’Eu, near the Normandy- Custom offi cers’ path and hurts your calf muscles, try the ridges of shells to take a right-hand The best tip, as chosen by Tom Hall of week’s competition, a wealth of history. The walk is clearly tiriel border, is the perfect place You can join the Normandy coastal route from Les Andelys to Le Thuit. lane up to the hamlet of , then Lonely Planet, will win a £200 voucher on Colorado, is 10am waymarked in red and white, but there to get away from the crowds. A 5km path (Sentier des Douaniers) at many You feel as if you are heading for the down again to a little brook. Turning from Hotels.com which can be used on Wednesday 13 September See the full list of tips are maps at the Le Havre tourist offi ce . With Claude Monet to Pourville walk, populated by deer and birds, points, but my favourite is the fi nal mountains, on a narrow track fl anked right again to bear north along the at more than 260,000 places to stay on walks in northern France • seine-maritime-tourisme.com Follow Monet by walking west from begins at the Poteau Maître Jean, one part for its breathtaking views of Mont by rocks, with great views of the Seine stream we headed back to Morsalines. across the world, from quirky B&Bs at theguardian.com/travel Savas Arici Dieppe on the cliff tops two miles to of the many landmarks at crossroads St-Michel, stretching out into the White walking … the Alabaster coast valley. You come back along the river ProfMcTeach and family boltholes to boutique hotels