Craig’s QuébeC Tour Québec Delivers In some places, the trail could be seen winding its way for miles ahead. The Goods! March Riding At Its Best! Val-d'Or Chicoutimi Québec Mont Laurier Montreal Story and Photos By: Craig Nicholson rom the shore, the stake line of the ice was still safe; the answer appeared Although some would call this “northern” Regional Trail 322 disappeared to be yes, given that the trail stakes were Quebec, a quick check of Google Earth into the horizon across the still solidly planted, and we could see soon dispels that erroneous notion: a huge massive Baskatong Reservoir. It ATV’s on the ice dragging fishing huts. whack of La Belle Province is way up Flooked like miles across — and it was glare Even if they were being removed, at least there above where we rode. As a matter of ice all the way. Although the trails still had the ice was still supporting them for now! fact, we didn’t even have to venture to the plenty of snow, little was left on Baskatong Several of us skipped over the crack, trails operated farthest north by the Quebec due to a recent rain. Some engineer must while others paralleled it to a klick or so Federation of Snowmobile Clubs: spring have recently opened the dam gates too, towards shore, rode around its end on land, riding conditions prevailed in the upper because the reservoir ice had fallen as its and then back to out the stake line. We sections of the tourism regions known water level plunged a good 20’, judging were on our way, but thanks to that mostly as Outaouais, Laurentians and Mauricie, by the descent from shore to surface. So bare ice, most of us had to replace sliders while Abitibi-Témiscaminique and there we sat, about to burn off our sliders, two days later in Val-d’Or. Saguenay Lac-Saint-Jean, which we less than 25 kilometres from launching also visited, were still solidly locked One Last Great Ride our tour at Le Village Windigo. Thank into winter. goodness for Woody’s studs! These minor annoyances can be expected The purpose of our tour was simple: We set off, picking our way from snow nearing the end of the season, when avid put on as many kilometres as possible patch to snow parch, eager to complete snowmobilers are looking for one more great before the snow disappeared. March is this intimidating crossing. But first we had ride. We found ours that March, when Jim undoubtedly the best time to attempt this, to traverse a long, narrow crack of open Reavell, Don Webb, Glenn King, Dennis because of its more moderate temperatures water, invisible from the shore, which ran Burns, and I toured 2,800 kilometres in a and longer days, which lasted even longer perpendicular to our direction of travel, giant loop through north central Quebec. when we switched to daylight savings time barring our way. I wondered whether or not What an incredible last ride! on day two. Also by March, the trails are Craig’s QuébeC Tour Nothing like a great hot tub at the day’s end! generally set up the best they will be all winter, and there’s never as much traffic, so booking rooms is easy. The only factor we encountered to limit our daily riding distance was the location of lodgings in the more remote areas: travelling Trans Quebec 83 eastbound from Senneterre to Roberval, the only logical stops for us were Clova (pop. 40) and Relais 22 (pop. even less). The trails were so good that we could easily have snowmobiled 50 or 75 klicks more each day, but the next available accommodation was even farther away than that, so we chose to pack it in early rather than riding after dark in the wilderness. Small price to pay. abundant. Most of the trails in these regions that downed trunk was lying deep in the Lake Timiskaming from Haileybury One other point to note: this same tour For our final day, the itinerary called for are land-based, and most water crossings snow, so I scooted over as if it was a mere and New Liskeard). Another remote could be shorter by two full days and only a half day ride back to Ferme-Neuve bit of a crapshoot because of the late date. are either bridged or with culverts. Then speed bump. I stopped out of the way and ride northwest on Regional Trail 309 led about 600 kilometres if you choose from Club Mekoos; we decided, with But in earlier months of previous winters, there were the trees… jumped off my sled to warn the others us to the agricultural towns of the Abitibi- to ride directly through both Abitibi- 2,800 kilometres of superb riding already I have snowmobiled all of these regions We all had remarked on how well before they got into trouble. We all made Témiscamingue region. From there, we Témiscaminique and Saguenay–Lac- under our belts, that we didn’t want our and never been let me down, regardless brushed most Quebec trails are, ensuring it okay, but that was the first of many headed due east on Trans Quebec 83 Saint-Jean. Instead, true to our mission, last memory of this terrific tour to be one of the weather and conditions elsewhere. both that sight lines around corners are logs and branches we had to negotiate or through the wild and isolated heartland we decided to ride an extra day in each of of picking and scratching our way along Our tour group knew that spring could good, and that we really could keep remove that day. So much for “no trees of Mauricie, a 640 kilometre trek from these primo regions because we had the soupy trails in the rain. So we hired a truck arrive at any moment. So we kept an eagle right without getting whacked across ever blocking the trail”; if this is how my Senneterre to Roberval with only three time and desired the distance. Besides, how and trailer to transport us the short distance eye on Météo Media (Quebec’s Weather the visor by errant branches. One night, ponderings are destined to turn out, then very small villages — Clova, Parent and could we ignore such top-notch trails! back to our starting point in warmth and Channel) each night, ready to bail early I also pondered that it was unbelievable, next up I’ll be exclaiming that I never see Wyemontachie — to mark the way. style, with absolutely no regrets. if necessary. That we didn’t have to do so Window of Opportunity with riding so many miles and passing any naked women on the trail either! Keep At Roberval, we explored the Don’t be fooled by our ignominious until the very last day is testimony to the so many trees, how none of them were your eyes peeled. Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean region by To start, we towed our Triton trailers beginning and ending. These anomalies plentiful snow and outstanding trails in ever down across the trail, blocking our circumnavigating its large lake, then to Ferme-Neuve, just north of Mont book-ended seven of the most glorious Pockets of Civilization these regions of Quebec. Take my word way. Famous last words — that night a exiting south on Regional Trail 355 Laurier; about a three-hour drive north days of riding for this or any other winter. for it: any time a winter thaw sets in localized windstorm swept through… If you trace our tour on a Quebec to La Tuque, and riding north of two of Ottawa. The snow line was shifting All trails had adequate to ample snow; elsewhere or if you are simply looking Next day in the lead, I crested a small provincial trail guide, you’ll quickly major reserves back to Ferme-Neuve. gradually north and we hoped that most trails were either table top or close to for an extraordinary ride through a vast hill and caught a glimpse of a tree trunk see that it starts and ends in relatively The flexibility of this loop is that, if the conditions would hold so our return it. Being mostly former logging or mining hinterland, you’ll always find primo horizontal on the trail mere feet ahead. populated regions of the Outaouais and weather had not cooperated as long as it could be by snowmobile. As things roads and utility corridors, the trails snowmobiling in north central Quebec! Unable to stop in time, I steered sharply Laurentians. From there, Trans Quebec did, we could have bailed out on either transpired, we got skunked our last day were wide, open, and exhilarating. We for the edge of the trail, where the trunk 63 took us west through the wilderness Trans Quebec 13 or 73 to cut the tour short anyways…by then, the temperature encountered very few other tour groups, Special thanks to Jill Mimeault, appeared to be lower to the snow than to the farming communities along the and head back to the trailers. was so warm that we would have but with the coming of spring, small Pascale Tremblay, Jacinthe Doucet, it was over the trail itself. Fortunately, Ontario border at Ville-Marie (across From the outset, I admit this tour was a been more comfortable riding in our wildlife like squirrels and partridges were Nicole Gauiln and Nancy Donnelly for shirtsleeves; meanwhile, the snow assistance with this tour; and to Beric underneath our tracks was slowly but Sport, Val-d’Or, and Roland Spence et surely turning to mush.