Athens DIRECTIONS WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY John Fisher and Paul Hellander NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com 2 Tips for reading this e-book Your e-book Reader has many options for viewing and navigating through an e-book. Explore the dropdown menus and toolbar at the top and the status bar at the bottom of the display window to familiarize yourself with these. The following guidelines are provided to assist users who are not familiar with PDF files. For a complete user guide, see the Help menu of your Reader. • You can read the pages in this e-book one at a time, or as two pages facing each other, as in a regular book. To select how you’d like to view the pages, click on the View menu on the top panel and choose the Single Page, Continuous, Facing or Continuous – Facing option. • You can scroll through the pages or use the arrows at the top or bottom of the display window to turn pages. You can also type a page number into the status bar at the bottom and be taken directly there. Or else use the arrows or the PageUp and PageDown keys on your keyboard. • You can view thumbnail images of all the pages by clicking on the Thumbnail tab on the left. Clicking on the thumbnail of a particular page will take you there. • To bookmark a page, click on the Bookmark tab on the left. Select New Bookmark from the dropdown menu and add your own description. • You can use the Zoom In and Zoom Out tools (magnifying glass) to magnify or reduce the print size: click on the tool, then enclose what you want to magnify or reduce in a rectangle. To move around the page use the Hand tool. • To reset the page display size, click on one of the icons that looks like a paper sheet and try different page display sizes. This option is also available from the View menu. • To search for a word in the document, click on the Find tool (binoculars) and type in the word you are looking for. • To add notes, underline or highlight text, you can use the Notes, Pencil and Highlight tools in the top toolbar. For more tips, check out Adobe’s frequently asked questions for e-book users by clicking here. 3 Contents Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill ................102 Introduction 4 CONTENTS Skndagma and around ..................112 Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki............117 Suburban Athens............................123 Ideas 9 Attica ............................................133 Further Afield ................................140 The big six ......................................10 Acropolis..........................................12 Classical Athens ..............................14 Roman Athens..................................16 Accommodation 153 Byzantine Athens..............................18 Hotels ............................................155 National Archeological Museum ......20 Hostels ..........................................162 Cultural museums............................22 Campsites......................................162 Modern Athens ................................24 Hills and views ................................26 Green Athens....................................28 Essentials 163 Restaurants and tavernas ................30 Cafés and bars ................................32 Arrival ............................................165 Music and entertainment..................34 City transport ................................166 Nightlife ..........................................36 Information ....................................168 Markets and shopping......................38 Directory ........................................169 Orthodox Athens ..............................40 Athens on foot..................................42 Seaside Athens and Language 173 island escapes ..............................44 Basics ............................................175 Out of Athens ..................................46 Menu reader ..................................180 Places 49 Index 183 The Acropolis ..................................51 Pláka................................................61 Monastiráki and Psyrrí......................70 Colour Maps Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona........80 Platía Omónias and around ..............88 Athens The Archeological Museum, Central Athens Exárhia and Neápoli ......................95 Athens Metro 4 Introduction to Athens INTRODUCTION In most minds, Athens is a city that happened two- and-a-half thousand years ago, and it’s true that even now that past looms large – literally, in the shape of the mighty Acropolis that dominates almost every view, as well as in every visitor’s itinerary. Yet Athens is also home to over four million people, more than a third of the Greek population and is very much a city for the twenty-first century, one that has transformed itself for the 2004 Olympics. For many, the stunning remains of the ancient Classical Greek city are the highlight of any visit.The National Archeological Museum has the finest col- lection of Greek antiquities in the world, and there are plenty of smaller specialist repository of ancient sites museums. Even on a brief and museum pieces. It’s visit, however, it is a shame worth taking the time to to see Athens purely as the explore some of the city’s When to visit Athens is at its most agreeable outside the peak period of early July to the end of August, when soaring temperatures (sometimes over 40°C), plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can be overpowering. Perhaps the best months to visit are May to early June, September and October – temperatures are pleasant (20°C and upwards), and visitors fewer. In April you can also see lovely displays of spring flowers on the surrounding mountains. The winter months can be very cold, and February is often rainy. Contents Introduction 5 İ Byzantine Mosaic INTRODUCTION neighbourhoods: in partic- There are spectacular ular, the old nineteenth- bird’s-eye views from the century quarter of Pláka central hills of Lykavitós has a delightful mix of and Filopáppou, while Turkish, Neoclassical and more adventurous walkers Greek island-style architec- can head for the moun- ture and intriguing little tains that ring the city. museums devoted to tradi- Springtime hikes here tional arts, from ceramics reveal the astonishing to musical instruments. range of Greek wild flow- Here you’ll also encounter ers – especially on the vast, scattered relics of the largely unspoilt slopes of Byzantine and medieval Mount Párnitha. town that captivated Byron Outside the city itself and the Romantics. Just to you’ll find more ancient the north of Pláka, the sites, while sun-worship- bazaar area around Athinás pers flock to the suburban and Eólou retains an beach resorts.There’s the almost Middle Eastern chance to escape to the atmosphere, while the islands, too, several of National Gardens and ele- which can be reached from gant Kolonáki offer respite the busy port of Pireás in from the bustling city. Still just a couple of hours. well within the limits of For some, however, the Greater Athens are the biggest surprise in Athens is peaceful monasteries of the vibrant life of the city Kessarianí and Dhafní, the itself. Cafés are packed day latter with Byzantine and night, and the streets mosaics the equal of any in stay lively until 3 or 4am, Greece. with some of the best bars Contents Introduction 6 ĭ and clubs in Neoclassical statue the country. Eating out is great, with establishments ranging from lively tavernas to the finest INTRODUCTION gourmet restaurants. In summer much of the action takes place out- doors, com- plemented by open-air films, concerts and classical drama.The extraordinari- ly diverse shopping scene ranges from colour- ful bazaars and lively street system – particularly the markets to chic shopping newly expanded metro – malls filled with the latest you’ll have no difficulty designer goods.And with a getting around. good-value public transport ĭ Kolonáki Contents Introduction 7 ATHENS AT A GLANCE INTRODUCTION İ National Archeological museum National Archeological The Acropolis The Acropolis remains the city’s biggest attraction. Dominating its southern slope is the restored second-century Roman Herodes Atticus Theatre, a spectacular set- ting for performances of music and Classical drama during the summer festival. ĭ Pl á ka Street The National Archeological Museum By far the most important mus- eum in Athens, the National Archeological Museum houses the world’s greatest collection of Cycladic, Minoan, Mycenaean and Classical Greek art. Kolonáki For fashionable shopping, Kolonáki is the city’s most chic central district. Should you tire of Pláka hunting for the latest designer The largely pedestrianized area of gear, you’ll find some great pave- Pláka, with its narrow lanes and ment cafés and restaurants – or stepped alleys climbing towards come here at night for the bars the Acropolis, is perhaps the most and buzzing live music venues. attractive part of Athens. It’s ĭ Herodes Atticus Theatre Herodes Contents Introduction 8 ĭ Delphi INTRODUCTION touristy, but full of atmosphere and nities for eating, drinking and the city’s best for idle wandering. above all shopping – from flea mar- kets to upmarket designer shops. Cape Soúnio Often busy and noisy, you’ll still Cape Soúnio’s dramatic setting find the occasional quiet oasis in overlooking the Aegean has made it the high-rise urban surroundings. a landmark for centuries to boats sailing between Pireás and the Delphi islands. Its tremendous views and Set amongst the massive crags of evocative Temple of Poseidon cer- Mount Parnassós, Delphi is the tainly impressed Byron