Athens DIRECTIONS

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Athens DIRECTIONS

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY John Fisher and Paul Hellander

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI www.roughguides.com 2

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For more tips, check out Adobe’s frequently asked questions for e-book users by clicking here. CONTENTS 3 ki...... 117 á s Hill ...... 102 ó ti and Kouk á ki & Lykavit á ndagmaand around ...... 112 k IndexColour Maps 183 Accommodation 153 Essentials 163 Language 173 S Athens Central Athens Athens Metro Hotels ...... 155 Hostels ...... 162 Campsites...... 162 Arrival ...... 165 City transport ...... 166 Information ...... 168 Directory ...... 169 Basics ...... 175 Menu reader ...... 180 Mets, Pangr Suburban Athens...... 123 Attica ...... 133 Further Afield ...... 140 Kolon lona...... 80 á ...... 70 í no Petr poli ...... 95 Á á zi and nias and around ...... 88

ki and Psyrr á ó

o, G rhia and Ne í

á a Om í

ka...... 61 island escapes ...... 44 Ex á Places 49

Ideas 9 Introduction 4 Thiss The Acropolis ...... 51 Pl Monastir Out of AthensOut of ...... 46 The big six ...... 10 Acropolis...... 12 Classical Athens ...... 14 Roman Athens...... 16 Byzantine Athens...... 18 National Archeological Museum ...... 20 Cultural museums...... 22 Modern Athens ...... 24 Hills and views ...... 26 Green Athens...... 28 Restaurants and tavernas ...... 30 Cafés and bars ...... 32 Music and entertainment...... 34 Nightlife ...... 36 Markets and shopping...... 38 Orthodox Athens ...... 40 Athens on foot...... 42 Seaside Athens and Contents Plat The Archeological Museum, 4 Introduction to Athens

INTRODUCTION In most minds, Athens is a city that happened two- and-a-half thousand years ago, and it’s true that even now that past looms large – literally, in the shape of the mighty Acropolis that dominates almost every view, as well as in every visitor’s itinerary. Yet Athens is also home to over four million people, more than a third of the Greek population and is very much a city for the twenty-first century, one that has transformed itself for the 2004 Olympics.

For many, the stunning remains of the ancient Classical Greek city are the highlight of any visit.The National Archeological Museum has the finest collection of Greek antiquities in the world, and there are plenty of smaller specialist repository of ancient sites museums. Even on a brief and museum pieces. It’s visit, however, it is a shame worth taking the time to to see Athens purely as the explore some of the city’s

When to visit Athens is at its most agreeable outside the peak period of early July to the end of August, when soaring temperatures (sometimes over 40°C), plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can be overpowering. Perhaps the best months to visit are May to early June, September and October – temperatures are pleasant (20°C and upwards), and visitors fewer. In April you can also see lovely displays of spring flowers on the surrounding mountains. The winter months can be very cold, and February is often rainy.

Contents Introduction 5 İ Byzantine Mosaic INTRODUCTION

neighbourhoods: in partic- There are spectacular ular, the old nineteenth- bird’s-eye views from the century quarter of Pláka central hills of Lykavitós has a delightful mix of and Filopáppou, while Turkish, Neoclassical and more adventurous walkers Greek island-style architec- can head for the moun- ture and intriguing little tains that ring the city. museums devoted to tradi- Springtime hikes here tional arts, from ceramics reveal the astonishing to musical instruments. range of Greek wild flow- Here you’ll also encounter ers – especially on the vast, scattered relics of the largely unspoilt slopes of Byzantine and medieval Mount Párnitha. town that captivated Byron Outside the city itself and the Romantics. Just to you’ll find more ancient the north of Pláka, the sites, while sun-worship- bazaar area around Athinás pers flock to the suburban and Eólou retains an beach resorts.There’s the almost Middle Eastern chance to escape to the atmosphere, while the islands, too, several of National Gardens and ele- which can be reached from gant Kolonáki offer respite the busy port of Pireás in from the bustling city. Still just a couple of hours. well within the limits of For some, however, the Greater Athens are the biggest surprise in Athens is peaceful monasteries of the vibrant life of the city Kessarianí and Dhafní, the itself. Cafés are packed day latter with Byzantine and night, and the streets mosaics the equal of any in stay lively until 3 or 4am, Greece. with some of the best bars

Contents Introduction 6 ĭ and clubs in Neoclassical statue the country. Eating out is great, with establishments ranging from lively tavernas to the finest

INTRODUCTION gourmet restaurants. In summer much of the action takes place out- doors, com- plemented by open-air films, concerts and classical drama.The extraordinari- ly diverse shopping scene ranges from colourful bazaars and lively street system – particularly the markets to chic shopping newly expanded metro – malls filled with the latest you’ll have no difficulty designer goods.And with a getting around. good-value public transport ĭ Kolonáki

Contents Introduction 7

 ATHENS AT A GLANCE INTRODUCTION İ

National Archeological museum The Acropolis The Acropolis remains the city’s biggest attraction. Dominating its southern slope is the restored second-century Roman Herodes Atticus Theatre, a spectacular setting for performances of music and Classical drama during the summer festival. ĭ Pl á ka Street

The National Archeological Museum By far the most important museum in Athens, the National Archeological Museum houses the world’s greatest collection of Cycladic, Minoan, Mycenaean and Classical Greek art. Kolonáki For fashionable shopping, Kolonáki is the city’s most chic central district. Should you tire of Pláka hunting for the latest designer The largely pedestrianized area of gear, you’ll find some great pave- Pláka, with its narrow lanes and ment cafés and restaurants – or stepped alleys climbing towards come here at night for the bars the Acropolis, is perhaps the most and buzzing live music venues. attractive part of Athens. It’s ĭ Herodes Atticus Theatre

Contents Introduction 8 ĭ Delphi INTRODUCTION

touristy, but full of atmosphere and nities for eating, drinking and the city’s best for idle wandering. above all shopping – from flea markets to upmarket designer shops. Cape Soúnio Often busy and noisy, you’ll still Cape Soúnio’s dramatic setting find the occasional quiet oasis in overlooking the Aegean has made it the high-rise urban surroundings. a landmark for centuries to boats sailing between Pireás and the Delphi islands. Its tremendous views and Set amongst the massive crags of evocative Temple of Poseidon cer- Mount Parnassós, Delphi is the tainly impressed Byron – who carved site of the most important oracle in his name on one of the pillars. ancient Greece. Today, its awe- inspiring ruins and spectacular Monastiráki setting make it one of the most While less touristy than Pláka, memorable excursions from Monastiráki still has great opportu- Athens. ĭ Monastir á ki

Contents Introduction Ideas Ideas Contents 10 Athens is still defined above all by the brief period of glory it enjoyed in the fifth century BC – the Golden Age of Classical Athens. The signature image The big six of the city, and an absolute must-see, is the National Archeological rocky hill of the Acropolis, Museum The gold Mask of Agamemnon from topped by the Parthenon. Mycenae is the biggest crowd-puller in Smaller, lesser-known Athens’ premier museum. Ī P.96 Ī THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL ancient sites are scattered MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI İ throughout the city centre. The city’s Archeological Museum, too, is one of the world’s greatest, with treasures not just from Athens but from all the cultures of ancient Greece. The modern city is not always beautiful, but it is enjoyable, with its buzzing outdoor restaurants and cafés, great nightlife, and easy access to a spectacular coastline.

Lykavitós Hill Climb Lykavitós Hill – or take the funicular – for spectacular views of the city, including the Acropolis. Ī P.104 Ī KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS HILL İ Contents Ideas 11

Acropolis Tower of the Winds Crowned by the Parthenon, and surrounded On the site of the Roman Forum, the by the major relics of ancient Athens, the intriguing and well-preserved Tower of the Acropolis is one of the archetypal images of Winds is compass, weather vane, sundial Western civilization. and water-clock in one. Ī P.51 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ Ī P.71 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ ĭ

Temple of Poseidon Dominating Cape Sounío, the Temple of Poseidon commands magnificent views of the seas and islands around Athens. Ī P.133 Ī ATTICA ĭ

Street life In summer, life in Athens moves on to the streets, terraces and roof gardens. Dining or drinking al fresco, with the Acropolis as backdrop, can be an unforgettable experience. Ī P.85 Ī THISSÍO, GÁZI ÁNO PETRÁLONAİ

Contents Ideas 12 Exploring the Acropolis and its surrounds can easily absorb an entire day. While the Parthenon is the

Acropolis most imposing of the remains atop the steep-sided hill, it’s far from the only one; the Acropolis has an extraordinary concentration of superlative Classical architecture, all of it dating from just a few decades at the height of ancient Athenian democracy. The Acropolis Museum houses many of the treasures from the site and hopes one day The Erectheion to complete its collection The most sacred of the ancient temples with the returned and a superb example of Ionic architecture, the Erectheion’s south porch is sup- Parthenon Marbles. ported by six larger-than-life maidens – the Caryatids. Ī P.56 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

The Parthenon Marbles Part of the pediment of the Parthenon has been reconstructed in the Acropolis Museum – although the Elgin Marbles remain in the British Museum, despite a long Greek campaign to reclaim them. Ī P.56 Ī THE ACROPOLIS ĭ

Contents Ideas 13

The Propylaia The imposing entrance to the Acropolis now as in Classical times, the Propylaia were considered by ancient Athenians to be their most prestigious monument. Ī P.53 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

Acropolis Museum Containing almost all the treasures removed from the site since the 1830s, the museum includes fine sculptures that once adorned the Acropolis buildings, such as the Kritias Boy pictured here. Ī P.57 Ī THE ACROPOLIS Ī

Acropolis son et lumière The Acropolis is spectacularly lit at night throughout the summer, effects that can be enjoyed from vantage points across the city. Ī P.51 Ī THE ACROPOLIS ĭ

Contents Ideas 14 In the fifth century BC, the city-state of Athens suddenly found itself secure and wealthy, having defeated the Persians and risen to dominate their mainland rivals. They celebrated their success by a radical experiment Classical Athens with democracy, and with a flourishing of art, architecture, literature and philosophy whose influences imbue Western culture to this day. The physical remains of the Classical Golden Age are still to be seen everywhere in Athens, and with the city’s reconstruction more is emerging almost daily.

Kerameikos A tranquil, little-visited site that incorpo- rates the cemetery of ancient Athens as well as fragments of the city walls, gates and the roads that led to them. Ī P.83 Ī THISSÍO, GÁZI & ÁNO PETRÁLONA İ

Contents Ideas 15

Temple of Athena Nike Small but perfectly formed, this temple to Athens’ patron goddess encapsulates the ideals of Classical architecture. Ī P.55 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

Stoa of Attalos The reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos, part of the ancient Athenian marketplace, shows how Classical Athens might have looked in its heyday, and houses the Theatre of Dionysos Museum of the Agora. The stunning theatre where the Ī P.60 Ī THE ACROPOLIS ĭ masterpieces of Classical drama were first performed. Ī P.57 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

Monument of Lysikratos In a quiet corner of Pláka, this is a lone survivor of what was once a long line of similar monuments celebrating victory in ancient drama contests. Ī P.64 Ī PLÁKA ĭ

Contents Ideas 16 The Romans controlled Athens for some eight hundred years, but they left relatively few monuments. On the whole they respected the artistic and architectural

Roman Athens heritage of Classical Athens, while the city itself became something of a backwater of the Empire. There were, however, two great benefactors in particular whose legacy has survived: the Emperor Hadrian and Herodes Atticus,a Hadrian’s Library wealthy Roman senator. You can only admire it from the other side of a fence, but the scale of the Emperor’s structure is truly impressive. Ī P.74Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ ĭ

Tower of the Winds Situated in the Roman forum, this curious yet graceful octagonal tower has each of its well-preserved faces decorated with a relief of the eight winds. Ī P.71 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ

Contents Ideas 17

The Roman Forum Built by Julius and Augustus Caesar as an extension of the busy Greek marketplace, the Roman Forum is one of the main attractions in Monastiráki. The site includes the oldest Mosque in Athens, the Fethiye Tzami. Ī P.70 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ

Hadrian’s Arch Erected by Hadrian to mark the division between the ancient Greek city and the The Areopagus modern Roman one, this imposing arch This low, rocky hill below the Acropolis has rises to a height of eighteen metres. rich historical significance: in ancient times it was the site of the Council of Nobles and Ī P.115 Ī SMNDAGMA & AROUND ĭ the Judicial Court, and later St Paul preached here, setting in train the conversion of Athens to Christianity. Ī P.59 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

Odeion of Herodes Atticus The partly reconstructed theatre at the foot of the Acropolis is today a stunning setting for events at the annual Hellenic festival. Ī P.58 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

Contents Ideas 18 When the Roman empire split, Athens came under the control of Byzantium (Constantinople) and the Byzantine empire. The schools of philosophy were closed, and many of the city’s “pagan” temples converted

Byzantine Athens to churches. The legacy of the early Christians is a series of beautiful ancient monasteries, as well as museums and wonderful frescoes and icons.

Kapnikaréa The eleventh-century church of Kapnikaréa, right in the heart of Athens, makes for an extraordinary contrast to the packed shopping streets surrounding it. Ī P.75 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ

Contents Ideas 19 Byzantine and Christian Museum The richness of many of the icons on display is typical of the Byzantine era’s artistic styles. Ī P.106 Ī KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS Ī Christ Pantokrator Christ sits in majesty at the heart of the world-famous cycle of mosaics in Dhafní Monastery. Ī P.125 Ī SUBURBAN ATHENS ĭ

Dhafní Monastery The fortress-like exterior of the Monastery of Dhafní, on the western fringes of Athens, gives little clue of the glories within. Ī P.123 Ī SUBURBAN ATHENS ĭ

Contents Ideas 20 Athens’ National Archeological Museum is among the world’s greatest museums, with an unrivalled collection of ancient Greek art. It spans every era from prehistoric and the development of Mycenaean and Minoan culture, through Classical Greece and on to Roman and early The museum building Byzantine times. The imposing Neoclassical building hous- Extensive renovation ing the Museum occupies an entire block, set back from the street amid jungly gar- for the 2004 dens. Olympics has Ī P.96 Ī THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI İ provided a setting to match the contents.

National Archeological Museum Highlights are the finds from graves at Mycenae, and from the excavations of Akrotíri on the island of Thíra (Santorini).

The Vafio Cup This wonderful gold cup, one of two dating from around 1500 BC, depicts a bull being trapped, and was made by beating the gold into a hollow mould. Ī P.96 Ī THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI İ

Contents Ideas 21 Poseidon In this graceful bronze statue from the mid- fifth century BC, Poseidon stands poised in perfect balance as he prepares to hurl his (missing) trident. Ī P.98 Ī THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI ĭ

Frescoes The Archeological Museum holds an important collection of frescoes; this example from Akrotíri depicts two boys boxing, its style clearly influenced by Minoan Crete. Ī P.96 Ī THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI İ

The Little Jockey of Artemission In another masterpiece of animated bronze sculpture, the delicate-looking rider – probably a boy – seems far too small for his gal- loping mount. Ī P.98 Ī THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI ĭ

Contents Ideas 22 The city’s lesser- known museums should not be overlooked. Among the best are the Benáki and Kanellópoulos museums, each housing magnificent private collections that cover every age of Greek art and history from the Cultural museums prehistoric era to the nineteenth-century independence struggle. Others are more specialist: for example, the Goulandhrís Museum of Kanellopoulou Museum Right under the Acropolis at the top of Cycladic Art concentrates Pláka, the Kanellopoulou Museum fills a on artefacts predating the former private home with a treasure trove of fine art. Classical era, superbly Ī P.65 Ī PLÁKA İ displayed, while the Museum of Greek Folk Art features ceramics, jewellery, weaving and other crafts.

Museum of Greek Popular Musical Instruments Superbly displayed in a Neoclassical building, the museum traces the history of virtually every type of instrument ever played in Greece. Ī P.73 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ

Contents Ideas 23

Museum of Greek Folk Art A superb collection of arts and crafts, including regional costumes and shadow puppets. Ī P.61 Ī PLÁKA İ

Benáki Museum Occupying a graceful nineteenth-century mansion, the Benáki collection is of exceptional variety and quality. Ī P.105 Ī KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL ĭ

Goulandhrís Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art This small collection is extremely well presented, and contains fine examples of Cycladic art. Ī P.105 Ī KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL İ

Contents Ideas 24 Plans for a city of broad boulevards, drawn up in the nineteenth century when Athens became capital after Independence, didn’t survive long. After World War II, instead, rapid growth saw the city Modern Athens emerge as a vibrant, stimulating and exciting mix of East and West, urban and rural, where chickens roost next to Internet cafés, and eastern- style bazaars vie for space with chic outlets of Armani and Zara.

The metro The development of new metro lines has helped transform the city centre, cutting traffic and pollution and providing fast, efficient and easy-to-use transport. Ī P.166 Ī ESSENTIALS İ

Contents Ideas 25 Platía Omonías A great central meeting point; its perimeter is lined with kiosks selling everything from papers and lottery tickets to watch-straps. Ī P.88 Ī PLATÍA OMONÍAS & AROUND Ī

The Voulí Platía Sondagmatos The vast Neoclassical Greek parliament Skndagma Square is the vital heart of the building is guarded by evzones, goose- modern city, bounded on one side by the stepping in colourful traditional costume. parliament building and surrounded by Ī P.114 Ī SMNDAGMA & AROUND İ bustling commercial streets. Ī P.112 Ī SMNDAGMA & AROUND ĭ

Contents Ideas 26 Athens is dotted with hills and surrounded by mountains, almost all of which offer great views and the opportunity to escape the clamour of the city for a while. Inevitably, the Acropolis seems to Hills and views find its way into every photo, but there are fine cityscapes to be enjoyed in other directions too. The Acropolis itself offers good views of the city, while Lykavitós is the other classic viewpoint – with the added advantage of a walk through elegant Kolonáki and a funicular to get you to the top. On the fringes of the city, the mountains of Imittós and Párnitha are surprisingly rugged – making them excellent hiking territory.

The Acropolis Great views as you look northeast from the Acropolis, with Pláka below, Skndagma and the city centre behind, and Lykavitós in the background. Ī P.51 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

Contents Ideas 27 Lykavitós From the top, Athens is laid out before you in all directions – on a clear day you can see as far as the mountains of the Peloponnese. ĪP.104 Ī KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS HILLĭ

The Pnyx The remains of the ancient Athenian assem- ȿ Filopáppou bly stand at the summit of the Hill of the Pnyx, looking out over Pireás to the sea. Filopáppou hill, romantically known in antiquity as the Hill of the Muses, is topped by a Ī P.82 Ī THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM ĭ grandiose monument to the Roman senator EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI after whom it is named. Ī P.82 Ī THISSÍO, GÁZI & ÁNO PETRÁLONA İ

Lófos tou Stréfi Stréfi hill is little visited and offers a quiet escape from the streets of surrounding Exarhía. Ī P.98 Ī THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI İ

Contents Ideas 28 At first sight Athens is not a green city, but it has its moments. The citizens decorate their balconies with potted plants and shrubs, while in the older quarters

Green Athens bougainvillea covers many houses. In spring, flowers try to blossom everywhere – archeological sites and the steeper slopes of the hills are ideal breeding grounds. At the very heart of the city, the National Gardens offer almost tropical luxuriance, while as soon as you leave the Égina The island of Égina, less than an hour by city limits, nature reasserts hydrofoil from Athens, is famed for its itself immediately, whether many green orchards bearing pistachios. in the mountains, the Ī P.147 Ī FURTHER AFIELD İ coast or the nearby islands.

The National Gardens Part formally laid out, part distinctly overgrown, the National Gardens make for a refreshing, shady escape from the summer heat. Ī P.114 Ī SMNDAGMA & AROUND İ

Contents Ideas 29 Ruins in spring Even in the heart of Athens, in springtime flowers burst through and adorn the many ancient remains. Ī P.51 Ī THE ACROPOLIS ĭ

Lykavitós The lower slopes of Lykavitós and many of the city’s other hills are covered in pine trees and succulents. Ī P.104 Ī KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILLĭ

Mount Párnitha Less than an hour by bus from the city centre, Mount Párnitha is remarkably wild, with a fabulous variety of alpine flowers in spring. Ī P.137 Ī ATTICA ĭ

Contents Ideas 30 Athens has a huge variety of restaurants and tavernas. The atmosphere is invariably relaxed, though the city does have its share of fancy places. There’s virtually every type of cuisine too, but the vast majority of places, and the ones most frequented by locals, remain no- frills tavernas. Most menus are simple, but you can rely on good-quality, fresh

Restaurants and tavernas ingredients: if you’re not sure about the menu, you can often go into the Zidhoron kitchen and see what’s on In the heart of trendy Psyrrí, Zidhoron is a offer. A typically Greek way modern take on a traditional mezedhopolío. to eat is to order a selection Ī P.79 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ of small dishes – mezédhes – to share. Koukáki An excellent eating locale just outside the Locals generally eat late: centre. 2–3.30pm for lunch, Ī P121 Ī METS, PANGRÁTI ĭ 9–11pm for dinner. Away & KOUKÁKI, from the touristy areas, you may find restaurants deserted if you go much earlier than this.

Contents Ideas 31 Pláka Most Athens restaurants have a terrace, courtyard or stretch of pavement on which tables are set up outside in summer. The pedestrian streets of Pláka provide a particularly atmospheric setting. Ī P.68 Ī PLÁKA ĭ

Taverna Damingos A basement taverna that’s still going strong into its third century. Ī P.68 Ī PLÁKA İ

Taverna music Evening performances of traditional Greek music are common, and while often rather touristy they are occasionally great. Ī P.78 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ ĭ

Áno Petrálona Away from the touristy central districts, neighbourhoods such as Áno Petrálona generally offer more authentic menus and a more local atmosphere. Ī P.85 Ī THISSÍO, GÁZI & ÁNO PETRÁLONA İ

Contents Ideas 32 There seems to be a café on every corner in Athens, most of which open from mid-morning till late in the evening. They’re an essential

s and bars part of the social

é fabric of the city, always full of groups

Caf of people chatting (on their mobiles if not to each other), smoking and drinking. Join them over a Greek coffee or the quintessential summer drink, a frappé: iced instant coffee, whipped to a froth. If you fancy a cold beer, you can have that in a café too – many effectively become bars in the evening, when they turn down the lights and turn up the music. Places that describe themselves as bars, with only a few exceptions, are much fancier and more Brettos expensive. Backlit bottles decorate Brettos, a peren- nial Pláka favourite that’s a liquor store by day and bar at night. Ī P.67 Ī PLÁKA İ

Contents Ideas 33 Psyrrí By night, Psyrrí buzzes with some of the city’s trendiest bars and restaurants, while by day it’s a relaxing place for a coffee. Ī P.79 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ ĭ

Exárhia An alternative feel prevails at the cafés and bars in this bohemian district. Ī P.100 Ī THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI ĭ Platía Filomoússou Eterías Competing cafés and restaurants in the heart of Pláka. Ī P.67 Ī PLÁKA İ

Skholarhio This traditional ouzerí in Pláka serves excellent mezédhes. Ī P.69 Ī PLÁKA ĭ

Contents Ideas 34 To see the best live Mégaro Mousikís traditional Greek The city’s major concert hall, the Mégaro Mousikís, hosts prestigious performances music, perhaps all year-round. surprisingly you Ī P.169 Ī ESSENTIALS ĭ need to visit during the winter months, as in the summer many musicians are off touring the country. This is also when the major ballet and drama performances are staged, and the sporting calendar is at its busiest. The summer, however, is Music and entertainment the festival season, and most important of all is the June-to-September Hellenic Festival of dance, music and ancient drama, Rebétika with many of its Traditional music falls broadly into two performances staged in the categories: rebétika, the drugs-and-out- cast music brought to Athens by Greeks ancient theatres of Herodes from Asia Minor in the early twentieth Atticus and Epidaurus. There century; and dhimotiká, traditional folk music. are also annual rock, jazz Ī P.94 Ī PLATÍA OMONÍAS & AROUNDĭ and blues events at this time, and you may see big international tours at one of the outdoor venues.

Contents Ideas 35

Street music The pedestrianization of much of the centre has allowed street performers and traders to thrive; the approach to the Acropolis is particularly good for seeing buskers. Ī P.53 Ī THE ACROPOLIS İ

Football There are three major football clubs in Athens: Panathinaikós, Olympiakós and AEK; the atmosphere on match days is intense. Ī P.170 Ī ESSENTIALS Ī

Lykavitós Theatre The theatre perched atop Lykavitós is a spectacular venue. Many of the city’s major rock events are staged here. Ī P.105 Ī KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILLĭ

Contents Ideas 36 Clubs and dance bars are hugely popular in Athens, and often extremely sophisticated. Downtown, the Nightlife hottest action is in the Psyrrí and Gázi areas, but in summer many close down and decamp to a string of hangar-like places on the coastal strip from Kolonáki Pireás to Várkiza. Expect Kolonáki has a fair spread of clubs, which tend to be generally more upmarket than the unexpected: most play those in Psyrrí or Gázi. recent hits, but don’t be Ī P.111 Ī KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILLİ surprised if the sound shifts to Greek or belly- dancing music towards the end of the night. The gay scene in Athens is mostly very discreet, but there is an increasing number of clubs and bars; Gázi is the hottest new area, while more established places are mostly in Kolonáki or off Syngroú Avenue.

Bee Bar Typically cool designer bar in Psyrrí,a great place to meet up at the beginning of the evening, or to chill out in later. Ī P.79 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSRRÍ İ

Contents Ideas 37 Beach clubs Beachside clubs and bars open up in summer to cater to the clubbers seeking the cooler climes of the coast. Ī P.132 Ī SUBURBAN ATHENS ĭ

Live bands Clubbing The local rock scene is small but interest- Expect a hefty bill if you join the clubbing ing – you can expect anything from rock to crowd, but at least the admission price usu- reggae to blues. ally includes your first drink. Ī P101 Ī THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, Ī P.87 Ī THISSÍO, GÁZI & EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI İ ÁNO PETRÁLONA ĭ

Contents Ideas 38 Shopping in Athens Street markets is decidedly Street markets held across the city are great places to stock up on picnic fare schizophrenic. On and get a taste of local Athens. the one hand, the Ī P.170 Ī ESSENTIALS ĭ bazaar area is an extraordinary jumble of little specialist shops and stalls, while almost every neighbourhood still hosts a weekly street market.On the other, the upmarket shopping areas of the city centre, and the Markets and shopping malls and fashion emporia of the ritzier suburbs, are as glossy and expensive as any in Europe. The food halls of the central market and the picturesque flower market nearby are particularly worthwhile, while if you’re into trawling through junk, don’t miss the Sunday morning flea markets in Monastiráki and Pireás.

Contents Ideas 39

Monastiráki flea market Odhós Ermoú Experience the Sunday morning buzz in the Ermoú, off Skndagma square, is one of the streets around Monastiráki. prime downtown shopping streets, home to Ī P.74 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ department stores and high-street labels. Ī P.70 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ ĭ Períptero kiosks Handy for anything from newspapers to cold drinks, tobacco and any manner of essentials, kiosks are found on every corner and stay open all hours. Several in Omónia spe- cialize in the foreign press. Ī P.88 Ī PLATÍAS OMONÍAS & AROUND ĭ

The fish market Seafood and fish play a big part in the Athenian diet, and at the bustling fish market you’ll see residents and taverna owners alike browsing the catch. Ī P.88 Ī OMÓNIA ĭ

Contents Ideas 40 Greece remains a deeply traditional and for the most part culturally homogeneous society, and over ninety-five percent of the population belongs to the Greek Orthodox Church. For all its surface modernity, Orthodox Athens Athens is no exception. The Orthodox church plays a significant part in most people’s lives: ceremonies like baptisms, weddings and funerals are very important, and the festivals of the church calendar – Easter above all – are celebrated with gusto. Name days – celebrating the saint after whom you are named – are more significant than birthdays.

Icon shops Icons, from cheap reproductions aimed at the tourist market to expensive and exquisite copies are sold everywhere: some of the best are found in the religious artefact shops around Platía Mitrópoleos. Ī P.76 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ

Contents Ideas 41 Historic icons When you’ve had your fill of browsing the icon shops, check out their historic predeces- sors at the Byzantine and Christian museum. Ī P.106 Ī KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS HILL ĭ

Platía Mitrópoleos The square itself is more of a draw than the cathedral here, but there has been a church on this site for centuries Ī P.75 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ

Baptism ceremonies Events like baptisms bring out a vast, extended family – all of whom can expect lavish hospitality. Ī P.70 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ ĭ

Contents Ideas 42 Central Athens is Apostólou Pávlou compact enough to Modern sculpture adorns the pedestrianized street that overlooks the Agora and be able to walk Acropolis. almost anywhere. Ī P.80 Ī THISSÍO, GÁZI & ÁNO PETRÁLONA ĭ One of the lasting legacies of the run up to 2004 Olympics is undoubtedly be the network of pedestrian streets

Athens on foot that transformed the centre of town. Quite apart from the pleasure of being able to witness the ancient sites from a traffic-free environment, pedestrianization, together with the extension of the metro and other public transport initiatives have started to have an effect on Athens’ critical pollution Odhós Ermoú problems. Ermoú is a wonderfully traffic-free route from Skndagma down the Monastiráki. Ī P.70 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ ĭ

Contents Ideas 43 Kolonáki The upper reaches of Kolonáki climb steeply towards Lykavitós hill – it’s easiest to take the funicular up and walk down. Ī P.102 Ī KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL ĭ

Odhós Adhrianoú From Thissío metro all the way through Pláka, Adhrianoú is lined with bustling cafés and shops. Ī P.75 Ī MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ İ

Dhionysíou Areopayítou A relaxed, traffic-free street on the south side of the Acropolis, passing the Herodes Atticus Theatre. Ī P.53 Ī THE ACROPOLIS ĭ

Contents Ideas 44 Athens is surrounded by the sea, and the Greek nation has a seafaring tradition going back to Classical times. There are some great beaches in easy reach, though on summer weekends they’re packed to capacity. At many of the best you pay for entry, Náfplio allowing you to use The beautiful old town of Náfplio, with its picturesque castles, attracts plenty of a range of facilities weekending Athenians, ensuring lively from loungers to nightlife to go with the sights. İ watersports. More Ī P.146 Ī FURTHER AFIELD adventurously, from the port of Pireás you can get a ferry to one of a number of nearby islands, escaping in just a Seaside Athens and island escapes couple of hours (half that if you take a hydrofoil) to an entirely different world.

Beach at Vouliagméni Vouliagméni has some of the most attractive and exclusive beaches on the developed strip south of the city. Ī P128 Ī SUBURBAN ATHENS İ

Contents Ideas 45

Póros Temple of Afaia, Égina Picturesque Póros lies in close proximity to The rural island of Égina seems another the mainland, ensuring a steady stream of world – the serene Temple of Afaia can be customers for its fine waterfront restaurants reached by a good local bus service. and cafés. Ī P.147 Ī FURTHER AFIELD İ Ī P.148 Ī FURTHER AFIELD ĭ Ferries from Pireás Part of the magic of visiting the islands is the journey itself; an impressive array of ferries, catamarans and hydrofoils offer a smooth crossing as they run between the bustling port and the islands. Ī P.127 Ī SUBURBAN ATHENS ĭ

Contents Ideas 46 Attica, the province surrounding Athens, has numerous attractions beyond the obvious ones offered by its beaches: above all, the important outposts of Classical

Out of Athens Athens, made all the more appealing now by their rural isolation. Further out, some of the great sites, including Delphi and Mycenae, are an easy day-trip. The mountains, with their traditional villages, walking Mycenae and even skiing The discovery of Mycenae in the late nineteenth century was a seminal event in opportunities, are yet Greek archeology, proving that Homer and the stories of ancient, pre-Classical civi- another alternative. lizations were not mere myth. Ī P.147 Ī FURTHER AFIELD İ

Rhamnous Ancient Rhamnous is little visited, but the site enjoys a spectacular location overlooking the island of Évvia. Ī P.136 Ī ATTICA İ

Contents Ideas 47

Delphi Delphi, home of the Delphic Oracle, was thought by the ancient Greeks to be the centre of the earth. It’s still among the most impressive of all ancient sites. Ī P.141 Ī FURTHER AFIELD İ

Eleusis The Sanctuary of Demeter at Eleusis – accessible by city bus from Athens – was one of the most important in the ancient world. Ī P.137 Ī ATTICA ĭ Temple of Poseidon Cape Soúnio and the beautiful temple that stands at its tip have long been a landmark for sailors approaching Athens. Ī P.133 Ī ATTICA İ

Mount Parnitha Looking out from the ancient fortress of Phyle, just an hour from the centre of Athens, the unspoilt nature of Mount Parnitha is readily apparent. Ī P137 Ī ATTICA ĭ

Contents Ideas Contents Ideas Places Places Contents Places

Places Contents 51 The Acropolis The rock of the Acropolis, crowned by the dramatic

ruins of the Parthenon, is one of the archetypal images PLACES of Western culture. The first time you see it, rising above the traffic or from a distant hill, is extraordinary: foreign and yet utterly familiar. The Parthenon temple was always intended to be a landmark, and was famous The Acropolis throughout the ancient world. Yet even in their wildest dreams its creators could hardly have imagined that the ruins would come to symbolize the emergence of Western civilization – nor that, two-and-a-half millennia on, it would attract some three million tourists a year. The Acropolis’s natural setting, a chapter fall within one of three steep-sided, flat-topped crag of separate fenced areas: the sum- limestone rising abruptly a hun- mit of the Acropolis, which dred metres from its surround- includes the Parthenon itself, ings, has made it the focus of the the Propylaia – the gateway city during every phase of its through which the ancient sanc- development. Easily defensible tuary was entered – the and with plentiful water, its ini- Acropolis Museum, and other tial attractions are obvious – even temples including the now, with no function apart Erectheion and the Temple of from tourism, it is the undeniable Athena Nike; the South Slope heart of the city, around which everything else clusters, glimpsed PARTHENON at almost every turn. Crowds at the Acropolis can be horrendous – to avoid the worst, come very early or late in the day.The peak rush usually comes in late morning, when coach tours congregate before moving on to lunch elsewhere. The sites included in this

Acropolis tickets and opening times A joint ticket (e12; free to under-18s and EU students; E6 for non-EU students and EU citizens over 65; free on public holidays and Sundays Nov–March) covers the Acropolis, Ancient Agora and South Slope, plus the Roman Forum, Kerameikos and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The smaller sites also offer individual tickets, but only the joint one is valid for the summit of the Acropolis, so if you visit any of the others first, be sure to buy the multiple ticket or you simply end up paying twice; it can be used over four days, although there doesn’t seem to be any way of indicating when it was issued. The Acropolis itself is open every day April–Sept 8am–7pm, Oct–March 8am–4.30pm. The South Slope (individual entry E2) and Ancient Agora (individual entry E4) are open daily April–Sept 8am–7pm, Oct–March 8.30am–3pm.

Contents Places 52

ERMOU LOUKA 0 150 m Áyii SARRIOYIGOU Asómati LEO NIKA

POULOPOULOU LEPENIOTOU LEPENIOTOU

OYIGOU

IVIS Thissio PLATIA RIO AKTEOU M I THISSIOU

R U A K FIKTYONOSV O U APOSTOLI VA RH KHRISTOKOPIDHOU L A NA AM S Athenaeum I ESOPOU D I L Maria Callas H I I VLITON NILEOS S V A ADHRIANOU ERMOU O I

A S

N FEDHRAS S

THISSIOU T IN

G PLACES O S AKAMANTOS MONASTIRÁKI

Hephaisteion Stoa of AYIOU FILIPPOU OU PLATIA Zeus TT NE AVISSYNIAS KY IFE Entrance S ADHRIANOUT Ayía O Marina U NORMANOU Voulefterio Monastiráki OTRYNEON APOSTOLOU PAVLOU Flea Market Ancient IFESTOU FIGALIAS Tholos Agora S The Acropolis O A Y K D N H P Monument of Odeion R Stoa IA Eponymous of Agrippa N ITH O IOULIOU SM Heroes of Attalos U Palace (Agora KLADHOU Hadrian's D H & Stoas Museum) Library E IO Y N DHEXIPPOU I Y P N S I K AREOS IT I Áyii Entrance O OU I L U I Apóstoli S N AXIA RHO P O EPAMT L Y G N Fethiye O IN T ONDA Areopagus O Mosque Rock U Roman DHIOSKOURON MITROÖU Forum PANOS Museum of Greek Tower of MOUSEOU T the Winds APOSTOLOU PAVLOU Folk Art: Man & Tools H U A R THOLOU R A RILIO E SY AV T O V . U O M Kanellopoulou S U A L S O Propylaia Museum U Athena TH E O Entrance Promachos R I A Beule Gate S Panathenaic Erechtheion PRYTANIOU Temple of Way Athena Nike Old Temple Theatre of DHIONYSIOU AREOPAYITOUSanctuary Acropolis R of Artemis O Herodes Atticus V E Parthenon R T O S U Acropolis O G Stoa of N A Eumenes O Asklepion Museum L AT

L R

I T

S STER UEM Panayia GO Khryssospiliotissa FRATTI PROPYLEON Theatre of ANGELIKARA

GARIVEALDI Dionysos ROVERTOU GALLI Odeion of EPIMENIDHOU K A RATZIERI L L N Pericles IS O GARNOFSKY FRATTI PARTHENONOS P H E ID DHIONYSIOU R I T YA PROMAHOU R FEN A K ARETIS V A K H SOFRONISKOU KA O U V MAKRIYIÁNNI A LLO Entrance THRASYLLOU TI EREKHTHIOU A R E O VYRONOS PROPYLEON P MITSEON A PLATIA Y I T LAZARETTOU New Acropolis O U N MISARALIOTOUZITROU Museum Site TZA HATZIKHRISTOU Akropoli MI K M

AR ATA ZITROU PARTHENONOSS I MITSEON M Akropoli AKRI MAKRIYIANNI M

MITROMARA PORINOU

Contents Places 53

Approaches to the Acropolis The sites are ringed by a pedestrian walkway, allowing views of the Parthenon to be appreciated from almost every angle. You may get a little lost among the jumble of alleys in Pláka, but the rock itself is always there to guide you. The Acropolis itself can be entered only from the west, where there’s a big coach park at the PLACES bottom of the hill. On foot, the most common approach to the ruins is from the northwest corner of Pláka, on a path that extends above Odhós Dhioskoúron where it joins Theorías.

You can also approach from the south, where pedestrianized Dhionysíou The Acropolis Areopayítou (Metro Akropoli) offers access to the South Slope; from the north via the Ancient Agora (entrance on Adhrianoú; Metro Monastiráki); or, slightly further but repaid with excellent views of both Agora and Acropolis, from Thissío along traffic-free Apostólou Pávlou (Metro Thissío). with its two great theatres; and They were built from the same the Ancient Agora. marble as the temple, and in There are no shops or restau- grandeur and architectural rants within the Acropolis area, achievement are almost as although you can buy water and impressive.The ancient sandwiches, guidebooks, post- Athenians, awed by the fact that cards and so on from a couple such wealth and craftsmanship of stands near the Beule Gate. should be used for a purely sec- There’s also a handy branch of ular building, ranked this as their Everest right opposite Akropoli most prestigious monument. metro station (at the corner of Walking through the gateway, Mariyiánni and Dhiakoú) and which would originally have plenty of similar places around had great wooden doors, is your Monastiráki metro. If you want only chance to enter any of the to sit down, there are cafés and ancient buildings atop the tavernas nearby in almost every Acropolis.To the left of the cen- direction: see Pláka (p.68), tral hall (which before Venetian Monastiráki (p.77), Makriyánni bombardment supported a great (p.121) and Thissío (p.85). coffered roof, painted blue and gilded with stars), the The Propylaia Pinakotheke was an early art Main Acropolis site. Today, as gallery, exhibiting paintings of throughout history, the Homeric subjects by Propylaia are the gateway to the Acropolis. In Classical times the PROPYLAIA road extended along a steep ramp to this monumental double-gatehouse; the modern path makes a more gradual, zigzag- ging ascent, passing first through an arched Roman entrance, the Beule Gate, added in the third century AD. The Propylaia were constructed by Mnesikles from 437–432 BC, and their axis and propor- tions aligned to balance the recently completed Parthenon.

Contents Places The Acropolis PLACES the Temple of Athena Nike. waiting room forhershrine premises hadtobeadaptedas a the Goddessof andthe Victory ground sacred to incorporated Mnesikles as ismuch smaller, right wingtothe Polygnotus.The 54 Contents the firsttimeindecades. the Acropolis wouldbe free ofscaffoldingandreconstructionworkfor Olympics, Withtheworkcompletedasaresultof2004 entire Acropolis embarkedupon. schemeofthe long-termrestoration andamajor, barred fromitsactualprecinct, beenturningthemarbletodust. have causedbyvehicle andindustrialpollution, sulphurdioxidedeposits, more recently, surfaces;and, worndown slowly offeethave generations lodged thefoundations; dis- earthquakeshave Meanwhile, muchofthisproved destructive. though, run, inthelong thestructures: Parthenon-mosque anddidworkintendedtopreserve archeologists cleared the Turkish haddevelopedaroundthe that village the reignofEmperorJustiniantempleswereconvertedto only tenyearstofinish. Pheidias Pericles wasmastermindedby coincidingwiththeGolden Age ofClassical Athens, project, Thisvast itssackingduringthePersian following Wars. reconstructed in449BC, Theentireareawas bywhichtimethebuildingsherewerepurelyreligious. later, souvenir huntersandtheeffortsoffirstarcheologists( fortwodaysandnights. raged process blastingoffitsroofandstartingafirethat inthe igniteda Turkish intheParthenon, magazine gunpowder ing siegetothehill, lay- the Threeyearslater Venetians, of Athena Nike togainabrieftacticaladvantage. In1684the bythe attempts TurksVenetians tooustthe Turks. demolishedthe Temple as aharem. service saw ures, withitsgracefulfemalefig- TheErechtheion, turies ofuseasa Turkish mosque. beforeseveralcen- fromByzantinechurchtoFrankish cathedral, Roman temple, TheParthenon underwentsimilarchangesfromGreekto magazine. powder usedbythe ters werelater andthe samequar- Fifteenth-century ItalianprincesheldcourtinthePropylaia, graduallyobscuringtheClassicaldesigns. andembellishmentsincreased, gious, theusesbecamesecularaswellreli- centuries, Overthefollowing worship. sheltering itsprincipalpublicbuildings. thefirstGreekcity-state, the Acropolis hadbecometheheartof Athens, BC, Bytheninthcentury enclosing palaceandtemplestothegoddess aroyal Athena. times itwasfortifiedwithCyclopean walls(partsofwhichcanstillbeseen), its slopesinhabitedbya The rocky settlementsinGreece, Acropolis washometooneoftheearliestknown The developmentoftheAcropolis Since a 1975 report predicted the collapse of the Parthenon, visitors have been visitorshave oftheParthenon, Since a1975reportpredictedthecollapse Greek AfterIndependence, ofthebuildingssincehasbeenlittlehappier. The fate h ouet uvvdbrl lee o ls oatosn er,untilin barelyalteredforcloseThe monumentssurvived toathousandyears, The process of stripping down tothebareruinsseentodaywascompletedby The processofstrippingdown upduringsuccessive blown The Acropolis buildingsfinallyfellvictimtowar, fromthe Most ofthesubstantialremainsseentodaydate and carriedoutunderthegeneraldirectionofarchitectsculptor twscmltdi niceil hr ie theParthenon itselftook Itwascompletedinanincrediblyshorttime: . ’ s original design s original Neolithic Turks Places – as theircommander omnt rud50 C In community around5000BC. Main Acropolis site. Main Acropolis The Panathenaic Way tea passedevery fouryears. Athena, of thecity inhonour Panathenaic Festival, sion forancient Athens proces-along whichthegreat Panathenaic Way was theroute ’ ’ s patron goddess s headquartersandasa see p.56 fifth century BC fifth century Christian The ). Mycenaean places of ’ or 55

The procession wound right process was undertaken in the through the Classical city from run-up to the 2004 Olympic the gates now in the Games – the temple was tem- Kerameikos site (p.83) via the porarily dismantled and its pieces

Propylaia to the Parthenon and, taken away for restoration and PLACES finally, the Erectheion. One of cleaning. the best-preserved stretches of The best views of the temple the ancient route, which was of are from inside the Acropolis, to course used as a road between the right after passing through festivals too, can be seen just the Propylaia. Here also are the The Acropolis inside the Propylaia. Here you scant remains of a Sanctuary of can make out grooves cut for Brauronian Artemis.Although its footholds in the rock and, to function remains obscure, it is either side, niches for innumer- known that the precinct once able statues and offerings. In housed a colossal bronze repre- Classical times it ran past a ten- sentation of the Wooden Horse metre-high bronze statue of of Troy. More noticeable is a Athena Promachos (Athena the nearby stretch of Mycenaean Champion), whose base can just wall (running parallel to the about be made out.Athena’s Propylaia) that was incorporated spear and helmet were said to into the Classical design. be visible to sailors approaching from as far away as Sounío.The The Parthenon statue was moved to Main Acropolis site. The Parthenon Constantinople in Byzantine was the first great building in times and later destroyed. Pericles’ scheme, intended as a new sanctuary for Athena and a The Temple of Athena Nike home for her cult image – a Main Acropolis site. Simple and ele- colossal wooden statue of Athena gant, the Temple of Athena Nike Polias (Athena of the City) over- stands on a precipitous platform laid with ivory and gold plating, overlooking the port of Pireás with precious gems as eyes and and the Saronic Gulf.The temple’s frieze depicts the Athenians’ victory over the Persians at Plateia.A relief from inside the temple, Victory Adjusting her Sandal, is now one of the star exhibits in the Acropolis Museum. It was from this site that in myth King Aegeus maintained a vigil for the return of his son Theseus after slaying the Minotaur on Crete – and where Aegeus threw himself to his death, mistakenly believing Theseus had perished. Amazingly, the whole temple was demolished by the Turks, who used its material for a gun emplacement, and reconstructed from its original blocks two hundred years later.The same

PARTHENON FRIEZE Contents Places 56

The Parthenon Marbles The controversy over the so-called Elgin Marbles has its origin in the activities of Western looters at the start of the nineteenth century. Chief among these were the French ambassador Fauvel, gathering antiquities for the Louvre, and the British ambassador Lord Elgin. Elgin obtained permission from the Turks to erect scaf- folding, excavate and remove stones with inscriptions. He interpreted this con- cession as a licence to make off with almost all of the bas-reliefs from the

PLACES Parthenon’s frieze, most of its pedimental structures and a caryatid from the Erechtheion – all of which he later sold to the British Museum. There were perhaps justifications for Elgin’s action at the time – not least the Turks’ tendency to use Parthenon stones in their limekilns, and possible further ravages of war – though it was controversial even then. The Greeks hope that the long-awaited completion of the new Acropolis Museum (see p.59) will create the perfect opportunity for the British Museum to bow to pressure and return the marbles. But despite a campaign begun by Greek

The Acropolis actress and culture minister Melina Mercouri in the early 1980s, there is so far little sign of that happening.

an ivory gorgon death’s-head on length to width, width to her breast.The sculpture has long height, and even such relation- been lost, but numerous later ships as the distances between copies exist (including a fine the columns and their diameter Roman one in the National – is constant, while any possible Archeological Museum). Despite appearance of disproportion is the statue, the Parthenon never corrected by meticulous mathe- rivalled the Erechtheion in sanc- matics and craftsmanship. tity, and its role tended to remain that of treasury and artistic The Erechtheion showcase. Main Acropolis site. The Originally the Parthenon’s Erechtheion was the last of the columns were brightly painted great works of Pericles to be and it was decorated with the completed. Both Athena and the finest sculpture of the Classical city’s old patron, Poseidon age, depicting the Panathenaic (known here as Erechtheus), procession, the birth of Athena were worshipped here, in the and the struggles of Greeks to most revered of the ancient tem- overcome giants,Amazons and ples.The site is the oldest on the centaurs – also brightly coloured. Acropolis, home to the original Of these, the best surviving Mycenaean palace. It was here, examples are in the British according to myth, that Athena Museum in London (see box and Poseidon wrangled for pos- above); the Acropolis Museum session of Athens.A contest was has others, but the greater part of held to decide their rival claims, the pediments, along with the judged by their fellow Olympian central columns and the cella, gods.At the touch of Athena’s were destroyed by the Venetian spear, the first ever olive tree bombardment in 1687. sprang from the ground, while To achieve the Parthenon’s Poseidon summoned forth a exceptional harmony of design, spring of sea water.Athena won, its architect, Iktinos, used every and became patron of the city. trick known to the Doric order Today, the sacred objects with- of architecture. Every ratio – in are long gone, but the series

Contents Places PLACES The Acropolis s ’ 57 s ’ smiles ’ zoussa, í The Theatre The Theatre of indeed, usually it – In the first rooms to the left to the In the first rooms The pieces of the Parthenon also easy to eavesdrop on the eavesdrop also easy to passing tour guides many through doing so. to avoid impossible fragments are of the vestibule the Old from of sculptures to Athena (seventh of Temple sixth century BC), whose a good traces of paint give colours of the vivid impression used in temple deco- that were ration. Further on is the Moschophoros, a painted mar- man car- statue of a young ble rying a sacrificialcalf, dated earliest 570 BC and one of the artexamples of Greek in marble. one of Room 4 displays of the build- the chief treasures ing, of a unique collection Korai, of maidens. or statues in style,The progression from Doricthe simply contoured elegant clothing to the more Ionic designs, and voluminous is fascinating; the figures also change subtly, becoming loose and natural. increasingly buriedfrieze in Room 8 were in the explosion that destroyed the Parthenon, escap- thereby Elgin.ing the clutches of Lord also contains a This room graceful and fluid sculpture, as Iy Sandal known Athena Nike which depicts adjusting her sandal. Finally, in authen- four are the last room caryatids tic and semi-eroded the Erechtheion,from dis- in behind a glass screen played atmosphere. rarefied a carefully Theatre of Dionysos South slope site. Labelling is fairlyLabelling basic, so to detail a supplemen- in explore taryuseful, guide is though it Dionysos is one of the most Dionysos in the city. locations evocative hosted the first were Here Sun are, – Places 7pm; re – in situ ’ Sept Mon – 3pm, Tues – they – Sun 8am – Placed discreetly on Placed discreetly 3pm. – 7pm, Tues – March Mon 10am – ACROPOLIS MUSEUM Contents 11am Oct The Acropolis Museum Main Acropolis site. April sadly, replacements. of the Five Acropolis originals in the are Museum, loot- was while a sixth Elgin,ed by a also removed who archi- column and other purely tectural features casts in a differ- by here replaced ent colour marble. of elegant Ionic porticoesof elegant survive, north the a par- one with doorway fine decorated ticularly and frieze Eleusinian of blue marble. By farthe most striking feature, however, is the famous Caryatids, of the Porch whose columns form of six the tunics tall maidens.The ones a level below that of the main below a level monuments, the Acropolis Museum contains virtually all of the portable objects removed the site since 1834. from 8.30am 58

performances of the masterpieces Theatre of Dionysos – is the sec- of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides ond-century Roman Herodes and Aristophanes; it was also the Atticus Theatre (Odeion of venue in Classical times for the Herodes Atticus).This has been annual festival of tragic drama, extensively restored for perform- where each Greek citizen would ances of music and Classical take his turn as member of the drama during the summer festival chorus.The theatre could hold (see p.170). Unfortunately, it’s PLACES some 17,000 spectators – consid- open only for shows; at other erably more than Herodes times you’ll have to be content Atticus’s 5000–6000 seats; twenty with spying over the wall. of the original 64 tiers of seats Between the two theatres lie survive. Most notable are the the foundations of the Stoa of great marble thrones in the front Eumenes, originally a massive row,each inscribed with the colonnade of stalls erected in the name of an official of the festival second century BC.Above the The Acropolis or of an important priest; in the stoa extend the ruins of the middle sat the priest of Dionysos Asklepion, a sanctuary devoted and on his right the representative to the healing god Asklepios and of the Delphic Oracle.At the rear built around a sacred spring. of the stage along the Roman Today, it’s a pleasantly peaceful bema (rostrum) are reliefs of spot, shaded by cypress trees; the episodes in the life of Dionysos. most obvious remains are of a Sadly,this area is roped off to pro- Byzantine church of the doctor- tect the stage-floor mosaic, a saints Kosmas and Damian. magnificent diamond of multi- Follow the steps above the coloured marble best seen from Theatre of Dionysos, then a path the seats above. to the right, and you’ll come to a vast grotto, converted perhaps a Around the Theatre millennium ago into the chapel South slope site. The dominant of Panayía Khryssospiliótissa; it’s structure on the south side of the worth a look for the setting Acropolis – much more immedi- rather than the faded iconogra- ately obvious even than the phy inside.

THEATRE OF DIONYSOS Contents Places PLACES The Acropolis s. ó s 59 ’ , which . The Agora or , became the who ” (arcades of shops).(arcades In stoas arnsitTdy there saint.Today, s patron ’ Originally the Agora was a Agora was Originally the of the site The best overview market was the heart of ancient was market as early Athenian city life from the site is an as 3000 BC.Today, and rather confusing extensive of ruins,jumble dating from various stages of building the sixth century BC between AD.As and the fifth century the marketplace, as well the the chief meeting Agora was place of the city, orators where held forth, dis- was business cussed and gossip exchanged. It also the first home of the was beforedemocratic assembly that shifted to the Pnyx, and continued to be its meeting place when cases of ostracism were discussed for most of the Classical period. rectangle, diagonally by divided and Way the Panathenaic temples,enclosed by administra- buildings,tive and long porticoed space, an open was the centre boundarydefined by stones. the exceptionally well- is from Hephaisteion,preserved or of Hephaistos Temple of the site the rest overlooks the west.Anfrom observation of it has a plan point in front as they the buildings showing AD, in 150 and the various were of you laid out in front remains with this sense a lot more make similar plans are to help (there at the entrances).The temple, as the sometimes known The Ancient Agora The Ancient Ancient Agora site Areopagite city little left on the ground,little left and, historic associations apart, the mainly for is notable Areopagus the views, over down especially the Agora and towards the ancient cemetery Kerameik of ” Places tou, oppo- í After years the The “ s sons.Aeschylus ’ s also a raised, ou Areopay ’ í ) where Ares, ) where God of for the trial of Slippery, rock-hewn pagos foros Dhionys ó The Persians camped here dur- here camped The Persians Contents Sermon God on an Unknown site the South Slope site. site the of delays, on the new work Museum finally began Acropolis in 2003.This stun- is set to be ning: is an all-glass the top storey affair designed to house the (those already Marbles Parthenon Museum,Acropolis in the plus Elgin Marbles),the restored with up to the view a direct itself.Parthenon Downstairs, the of the contents of the current rest Museum will be far Acropolis can be than they better displayed now, and there part-glass floor, added to the and display design to preserve of early Christianremains Athens, during build- discovered ing work. The Areopagus Immediately below to the the entrance Acropolis. Le The New Acropolis Museum Acropolis The New stairs ascend the low, unfenced Areopagus,hill of the the site of and the the Council of Nobles Court under the aristo-Judicial Athens. cratic rule of ancient During the Classical period the of govern- court lost its powers (held on Assembly ment to the the Pnyx), the it remained but court of criminal justice, dealing primarily with cases of homi- cide. also the it was In myth ( rock War, tried of was for the murder one of Poseidon used this setting in Eumenides Orestes, who stood accused of murdering his mother Clytemnestra. Acropolis ing their siege of the in 480 BC, in the Roman and the preached era Saint Paul “ on the hill, winning amongst his Dionysius converts The Acropolis PLACES Ancient Agora site. Ancient Agora Stoa of Attalos Pericles one oftheearliestbuildings of Itwas smiths andmetalworkers. patron ofblack- Hephaistos, isdedicatedto frieze), Theseus are depictedonthe Thisseion (theexploitsof 60 magnificent Stoaof Attalos.The housedinthe for theMuseum, head background tothe Agora, century shrine. century restoration oftheeleventh- exposedduring ments offresco, Insideare frag- Agora buildings. sive foundationsoftheother you wander amongtheexten- entrance by thesouth Holy Apostles), – church ofSaintGeorge. Byzantine conversion into the vaulted roof datesfrom a Parthenon ture and haps becauseitlacksthecurva- one oftheleastknown thatof Contents The otherchurch onthesite STOA OFATTALOS ’ rgam,but also programme, “ – Áyii Apóstoli lightness ’ isworth alookas s design.The barrel- s design.The For some ” of the – (the Places per- as ifthey withlabelsthatlook fashioned, the display issmallandold- itdoesn Sadly, thebuilding isspectacular. no, lackingcolouror of theoriginal; reconstruction entirely faithful an every respect exceptcolour, in Itis, between 1953and1956. School of Archeology in Athens undertaken by the American ofthe reconstruction from thecityfortenyears. these annual assemblies ofthecitizens, onthem.At names written ostraka Lookoutforthe kneeling boy. ofa oil flaskintheform together withan minor deities, musicians and depicting athletes, – grave offerings early Geometric plussome BC, century fourth coins from thesixthto what you and seeispottery bulk of opened in1957.The oe aihd or votes banished, andtheindividual with most in, includingred-figure dishes ostraka rsad fptey with orshards ofpottery, , ’ ve beenhere sinceit would behanded ’ t deliver inside “ ostracized stoa was ” – , PLACES Pláka 61 ve ï 1934), na – ka, with its nar- ka, with its á s with a series of wonderful ó scenes from Greek folklore and folklore Greek scenes from history, especially the independence struggle. murals by the primitive artist the primitive by murals Theofilos (1868 even though let down somewhat let down though even poor lighting and labelling.by Its to floors devoted are five collections of weaving, pottery, regional costumes and embroidery, along with other artstraditional Greek and crafts. On the mezzanine floor, the of northern tradition carnival and the all-but-vanished Greece are theatre shadow-puppet featured.The second floor features exhibits of gold and and weaponry, jewellery silver the era of the of it from much of Independence.The War highlight, though, is on the first floor: the reconstructed room a house on the island of from Lesv – 2pm. – ka Places á s and é Sun 10am – ka than in much á on 17. Tues é .Art Museum is one The Folk SHOPS ON ADHRIANOÚ s an enjoyable place to wander. s an enjoyable With scores of caf scores With 2 Contents ’ blocks of the metropolis. blocks of the metropolis. older Athens, refreshingly at odds with the concrete at odds with older Athens, refreshingly beat and enjoyable museums, it offers glimpses of an it offers museums, beat and enjoyable addition to a scattering of ancient sites and various off- sites and various a scattering of ancient addition to The largely pedestrianized area of Pl pedestrianized area The largely In popular with visitors. certainly the most Athens, and Acropolis, is arguably the most attractive part of the most attractive is arguably Acropolis, Pláka the towards alleys climbing lanes and stepped row of the most enjoyable in the city, of the most enjoyable Kydhathin Museum of Greek Folk Art Museum of Greek Folk Although surrounded by huge, Although surrounded by avenues,traffic-choked Pl itself is a welcome escape,itself is a welcome nar- its offering streets no through- row you where for traffic even routes to drive.allowed are Nineteenth- century houses, some grand, some humble, can be seen everywhere, opening their gateways over- courtyards onto verdant verandahs. wooden by looked to fill the time restaurants and sites, museums between and lined with touristystreets shops, it The main disadvantage is priceThe main disadvantage things are noticeably more noticeably things are in Pl expensive of the rest of the city. of the rest E 62 IPPOU of Attalos KLADHOU AGORAS N AD O S H H RI P R O AN I K I L IS IA Fethiye O X N Medresse U A T A Mosque Museum of Greek E P PAM PE Ancient Agora INON LOP Popular Musical DA IDHA Entrance Instruments Roman U O DH POLY G N O T O U I IOY Forum IL 1 EN Áyii D R OU

H S V KIR S I A IS

Apóstoli O Tower of TOU U U

S U O K O the Winds O E S E O K L O S R U S Turkish K U A

R N A I

M O R A Baths S

H I N M P 2 D N L S Y I THRASSIVO S S O PLACES ULOU M 4 I O E PS U MITROÖU 3 H E T L H Museum of Greek K T H O L O U 7 K 6 E Folk Art: Man & Tools 5 R E ka A R E T O U S A S

á P T H E O R I A RYTA Kanellopoulou S NIOU Pl Museum PRYT AN ANAFIÓ TIKA IOU Ayios Athena Promachos Nikólaos S Ragavás T R

A T Agrippa O Monument Sacred N Way O AcropolisOld Temple S Propylaia

Entrance Parthenon Acropolis Museum Temple of Athena Nike Sanctuary Panayia of Artemis Khryssospiliotissa Chalkothek Asklepion THRASYLLOU

Odeion of Theatre of Stoa of Eumenes Perikles Herodes Atticus Theatre of Dionysos DHIONYSIOU AREOPAYITOU

E Entrance P

K R

O P

T A

H R

I T

L O H

E U E

N N N MAKRIYIÁ NNI Lalaounis O K A L L I S P E HO N R I

Museum O ID N

S O New Acropolis

E YAT

R S Museum Site 0 100 m OV E T R I T KAR OU GA M LLI ANGEL

PROMAHOU HON

Children’s Museum Permanent exhibits include Kydhathinéon 14. Tues–Fri 10am–2pm, features on the Athens metro, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm. Free.Aimed how computers work, and the at the under-12s, the Children’s human body. Museum is as much a play area as a museum. Labelling is Frissiras Museum entirely in Greek, and the place Monís Asteríou 3 and 7 is primarily geared to school wwww.frissirasmuseum.com. groups, who take part in Wed–Thurs 11am–7pm, Fri–Sun activities such as chocolate- 11am–5pm. E6. Housed in two making – but it should keep beautifully renovated Neoclassical young kids amused for a while. buildings, the Frissiras Museum is

Contents Places PLACES Pláka

R S

63 U A 3 5 7 6 1 8

O S

G 12 17 11

S A

I L

. L

Y O

A A

N M S

A I L

Fri S S

Y I S

S I –

S N

I S L L

L L E L I I

F I Gardens

P National S S

Church

A A as as well Anglican

V V

S –

Russian Church S

of St Nicodemus

O O S

D of Greece R O O

F R U

O li 6. Tues O

E O O H L

F á Jewish Museum F

A O The Centre of The Centre

O M E

I 9pm, Sat & Sun

A L

N Entrance L R

E A –

X G S I

I O Frissiras Museum A

N S N Ionos Iy Klimataria Nefeli Psarra Tou Palea Taverna Palio Tetradhio O Platanos Skholiarhio Tristrato To Vyzandino

S Temple of I T

I K E A Eleftheroudakis

N E S U

O T N

Olympian Zeus

P Frissiras Museum Shop O

, at no. are 3 a block Compendium I

N Greek Folk R

é Art Museum

H 2 4 9

H s Hatzimih O T í

U D 16 15 14 10 13

A IO I A N

L P E R 1pm & 5 R 1pm. Free.

U E U

H O U

L F T

O U O

K –

S S –

K O

Amorgos U D A

O Y

S T

R I T P

H N I

D O H P A OU VOULIS O Centre of Folk Art Centre of Folk and Tradition Angelik 9am Rego among them and Greek less obvious many artists.Temporary other European exhibitions, along with the shop and caf away. 9am

K M M D

TO E U

S H O Arch

U O S D L Y KA

O R O Hadrian's

U Metamorfosis

H 17

H K H A

Á O

N Tribos D S R

T –

T I O

O U

I R A O R

I E ND O

P T

E O

M R

I O N E K

I I H A L I I P Y PL

Museum

S M

I U

H G

Children’s O H L S

Z E

D G

T N U

T A Church

A O Places

O A O

Protestant

K H I R E O N T First Greek T Z N

I H

I .The

D A

H & DRINKING EATING Brettos Damingos Bakaliarakia) (Ta Daphne’s Dhioskouri Eden Galaktopolio Iy Amalthea O Glykis Háni To Y

S R

I é S S 11 K

K Ayía I

K K O

I U

A I S

9 T

P M E

O I

R S U K Ekateríni

David O A I

H R F

H Y

L O K L

R – D

E T A U K O U

HO O F R Y N I H I 16 D V HI G

D R

Y Cine Y

UK A M A K R I F HEREFONDOS N

THO Paris

A N 15 A

A s only museum

’ P Spiti

A D H R I A N O U O

Elliniko E

U R S

O O N O PLATIA R N Y O IA V

HR SHELLY A

N D

HILL

A N I

LYSIKRATOUS

IS U E O N

AS FILOTH H Akropoli O I

AY Centre of Folk D N 14 O

U O A Art & Tradition

P O I POR L

I Y

I H

I O R

T R

L K

D U

M S A

R I U U

O M

H O U P O

IO Y

D L Study Centre for the Art of Puppet Theatre

U H O

O M H N P

S Spyros D O H R N

E I M

K K

S A

O N

Y S L V

H N

E 10

O E A A I A A

I G T

Lysikratos E I P

8 N V E

R E Contents V F A

. M

H R H E D I

Aravandinos P

Akropoli D billed as Greece Hockney, Blake, Peter Paula space at no. 7 houses the permanent exhibition, which includes plenty of names familiar to English-speakers mostly figurative painting plus a mostly figurative sculptures, few a regular of exhibitions,programme a fine shop and an elegant caf of contemporary art. European It works thousand three has over A Monument of E Pláka PLACES Angelik homeof occupies theformer it artefacts.Appropriately, andiconsreligious ceramics, along withmusical instruments, laceandweaving, embroidery, collection ofcostumes, Folk and Art Tradition housesa 64 weaving. of craftslike and embroidery are heldto pass onthetraditions classes androoms where library there whileupstairs range, the kitchenwithitsoriginal narrow descendto stairs back, the windows andstaircase.At finely carved wooden doors, highrooms and with itscool, oftheattraction, is alargepart designed forherinthe1920s century.The houseitself revival intheearlytwentieth the chiefcatalystsfortheir andcraftswasGreek arts oneof championing oftraditional whose ethnographer Contents MONUMENT OFLYSIKRATOS í s Hatzimih á i afamous li, – Places ’ s a – that tells us inscription placed.The was thewinningtripod ings, ofacanthus-leaf carv- flourish ina a marble domeonwhich, upto columnsrising Corinthian six stone basesupports four-metre-high memorials.A only survivor ofthesetriumphal Monument ofLysikratos isthe cauldrons) toDionysos.The oftripod trophies (inthe form monuments todedicatetheir erected drama competitions of where winners Tripods, of theancientStreet ofthe 10am Mon the Holocaust. ofthosewhosurvived stories and Jews intheGreek resistance, played onthepart by too, tures, are fea- less than10,000.There reduced from almost80,000to Greece when occupation, German includes World War IIandthe and remounted. have beenmoved here whosefurnishings the 1920s, synagogue of P centrepiece isthereconstructed old.The pieces centuries many ofthe paraphernalia, andreligious are art Downstairs of Jews inGreece. Jewish Museumtellsthehistory the explanation inEnglish, withplentyof rooms, ofdimlylit presented in aseries end ofOdh It of quiettavernas. angular openarea withacouple tri- asmall, from rises 335 BC, stone andmarble from structure atallandgraceful Lysikratos, Pl of corner In thesoutheastern The MonumentofLysikratos N Jewish MuseumofGreece í ptis more recent history Upstairs, kis 39. á a theMonument of ka, – “ Fri 9am – yirtso iya son Lysikratos of Kikyna, 2pm. ’ s Jewish populationwas w www.jewishmuseum.gr E – ó .0m Sun 2.30pm, 3. s Trip Elegantly á r,datingfrom tra, ó ’ s nearthe hn arelic dhon, en bloc . PLACES Pláka s Fri ’ 65 – s ’ t see ’ 10pm. – Sun – Oct Mon ka that Byron is Byron – á – 6.30pm, Sat & – s. Tues many impor- many s Church is s Church ’ ó ronos, is named – April Though there a – ni. May í here, and the 2. ni Church í E although it has been with its crowds of restau- with its crowds – a Ekater 12.30pm & 5 12.30pm, Sat & Sun 5 3pm. í on – – – 10pm; Nov fi in the southern Aegean,fi in the southern who é , as this quarter is known, pro- as 12, cnr Pan – á í St Catherine a Ay a Ekater í í tika ó Sun 5 7.30am European travellers travellers European 7.30am Free. said to have written part have said to of Harold Childe beyond,V street after him.The of the old Street continued have would Tripods in this direction Athenian buildings tant ancient lie undiscovered thought to are in the vicinity. Kanellopoulou Museum Theor Ay Plat nothing here that you won that you nothing here examples of in the bigger muse- 8.30am one of the few in Pl one of the few pretty well hidden by later hidden by well pretty can see it most additions.You the back of the clearly from church, while in the courtyard of a foundations are in front Roman building. Inside, the over-restored look frescoes brand new, plenty are and there of glittering icons. routinely open.Atroutinely its heart is an Byzantine eleventh-century original Kydhathin Anafi . ” Places , in “Sex and towel United beach home of the Manchester choregos ú tika ó Adhriano The whitewashed cubist houses of were employed in the mid-nineteenth-century construction of Athens.were employed in the mid-nineteenth-century construction of Unable to afford land, they took advantage of a customary law to the effect that if a roof and four walls could be thrown up overnight, the premises were yours at sunrise. claim a cheerfully architect-free zone.claim Many of the haphazard buildings were orig- An inally erected by workers from the island of The Anafi The main arteries of Pláka, all above rants and rants Ancient Greece” playing cards, For a break, touristy. can become depressingly slopes of and alleys that cling to the lower climb up into the jumble of streets a bit of flat ground still taverna tables set out wherever are There Acropolis. the can be found up here, also plenty of quieter corners of a are redolent but there era. different KANELLOPOULOU MUSEUM KANELLOPOULOU In the seventeenth century the In the seventeenth Contents monument became partmonument of a Capuchin convent, which pro- lodgingsvided regular for of Lysitheides, was (sponsor);Akamantis the tribe of the victory with a choruswon the flute; of boys;Theon played Athens trained the of Lysiades chorus; archon was Evainetos Pláka PLACES snout. atehp shapedlike adog battleship, bronze ramfrom theprow ofa large water and jars astonishingly well-preserved Items here range from some Hellenistic andRomanperiods. Classical, from theGeometric, andgoldjewellery with pottery floor isperhapsthebestofall, top and Stone Age tools.The Minoan Crete andfrom Egypt, includingitemsfrom bronze, items are exquisite. someofthesmaller ornaments; andRomanfunerary crosses, bronze oillampsand ellery, Free. Kir Turkish Baths implements andthelike. with collectionsofagricultural world,on thepre-industrial concentrate machinery quated The exhibitsoftoolsandanti- devoted totheworld ofwork. thisis another finemansion, in Greek Folk museum, Art A brand-new branchofthe Pan Man and Tools Museum ofGreekFolk Art: but there your grab attention, icons first themany gorgeousgilded floors Onthelower well worth avisit. is house underthe Acropolis, exhibitedinthetopmost tion, theKanellopouloucollec- ums, 66 expansion inthenineteenth although by menand women, would have beenusedinshifts thebaths look.Traditionally, glimpsed andare well worth a Athens of offer aninsightintoapart they Newly restored, 1965. Baths were upto inuseright the Turkishlater additions, thoughwith many the 1450s, Contents Upstairs is ancient pottery and isancientpottery Upstairs í tu8 Wed &Sun10am stou 8. ó 2 Tues s 22. Constructed originally in originally Constructed ’ past thatisrarely ’ s alsoByzantinejew- – Sat 9am Sat kraters – 2pm. – Places 2pm. e to the ’ 2. s puppets. laceandshadow lamps, needlework, woodcarvings, shop filledwithtasteful hw nterotp whileat shown ontherooftop, Kydhathin Cine Paris K Amorgos Shops offer ( worth usingtheaudiotouron soitmay be in Greek only, Labellingthroughout is Athens. photos andpictures ofold there are whileupstairs places, systems have beenexposedin underfloor andwall heating beautiful.The particularly are roofs androoflights, out inmarble withdomed tepidarium youfacilities seetoday.The providedcentury theseparate ó dhrou 3. OLD HOUSESAGAINSTACROPOLISWALLS e é ,plusadeposit). 1, on 22. A smallhandicraft and Cult movies caldarium fitted , PLACES Pláka By 67 as ka – á s s a pes as é ’ ê is one Popular ka. It á on. Brettos ö Alternative giftAlternative . 210 32 32 110. Classy store in store Classy t Perhaps the Perhaps Tasteful if pricey Tasteful ou 3. í s more interesting s more ’ ronda 9. on 41 114. é s é ú ron, cnr Mitr , serving mostly cr salads and omelettes ú é ” – lou Y s Aster í dhon 16. right on the edge of Pl é ó é dairy ultimate tourist shop.With a opposite at no. branch directly 95, sell them they between conceivable, souvenir every puppets, shadow from sponges and T-shirts and shells to tacky priapic Pans. shop that than most, folk art with and puppets among the hippy Tribos Ang Frissiras Museum Shop Museum Frissiras Mon Spyros Aravandinos Adhriano this modern art selling museum posters, and upmarket cards gifts. well as non-alcoholic drinks.well “ accoutrements. Galaktopolio Iy Amalthea Galaktopolio Iy Trip Caf Dhioskouri Dhiosko Bars Brettos Kydhathin caf Agora. the overlooking Simple food well as the inevitable frapp as the inevitable well day a liquor store,day selling mainly family of their own the products distillery, at night barsof the few in Pl simple, place with unpretentious and a barrels along one wall huge range of bottles, backlit at night, along another. and cappuccinos in . Places ú s a small shop ’ ), Eleftheroudakis Gone With the Wind Not as impressive as the Not as impressive Long-established, see p.92 s 14,Adhriano just off ó KA ALLEYWAY Á PL kis 20. kis 28. Contents í í main branch of this bookshop chain ( still has a good selection of English-language books, maps and guides. friendly and good-value English-language bookshop, with a small secondhand section; magazines. it also sells Amazing artworks and pieces of Amazing artworks found materials,furniture from including driftwood metal and marble. too big to take Probably as as well wallet home (for your suitcase),your a worth well but look. Elliniko Spiti Kekrop N Eleftheroudakis Compendium N street level there level street where you can pick up that you where poster of Greek you always hankered always you Greek after. Pláka PLACES value make upforit. with garlicsauceandgood excellentcod memorable retsina, home vintagesincludinga room filledwiththefamily intheback style (heftybarrels but theold-fashioned service, thisplacehasdour since 1865, a in away Tucked Kydhathin Damingos (Ta Bakaliarakia) Restaurants Dhedh To Tristrato Ang Ionos Ang O Glykis 68 expensive. Exquisitelydecoratedbut cakes. and desserts eggs, salads, juices, busy Plat place topeople-watch onthe but above allagreat and snacks, and hotappetizerplates. aswell ascold ofsweets, array Ithasamouthwatering crowd. frequented by ayoung Greek off busy Kydhathin undershadedtrees just corner Eves only;closed mid-Julytoend Aug. Daily 2pm Contents TAVERNA TABLES é é lou Y lou Y á o 4 cnr Ang lou 34, é é é – í on 41 ronda 7. ronda 2. midnight. a Filomo t 210 3225084. Good coffees A secluded ofe fruit Coffee, basement ú é é lou Y ssou Eter on, é ronda. Places ’ s í as. spend atleast courtyard outback food isserved inanattractive ClassyGreek sure you know it. has eatenhere Europe from theClintonsthrough half of Everyone them. place tobring thisisthe impress the in-laws, good traditionalmusic. and becausethey oftenhave justifiedby theposition food, are highforstandard Greek Prices as onthestreet infront. den courtyard attherear aswell tablecloths andtables inagar- placehaslinen old-fashioned anized Adhriano ofpedestri- Right intheheart Adhriano H To ClosedTues. 858. Liss Eden .daphnesrestaurant.gr Lissikr Daphne Kleps Iy Klimataria only. aren portions chilli andsoya lasagne; Dishes includemushroom pie, ground floorofanoldmansion. inaretro settingonthe rant, restau-and classiestvegetarian t etnr,thisunpretentious its centenary, í u1,offMnisikl ou 12, ’ Having recently celebrated t hugebut are very tasty. k á á dhras 5 ni tous 4 ’ ú s royalty to Angelina Jolie ’ 138 s t t t 210 3227971, e 1 21 1.Eves 210 3211215. – 210 3228966. sing-alongs by which inspires accordion music, guitar and treated tolive likely tobe you winter, In meat andfish. mainly grilled inexpensive food, decent taverna has and pleasant h city The 50 ahead. andthey make ú . é thisslightly , If you want to ous – expectto t ’ s oldest 210 3248 ’ w re www PLACES Pláka 69 , ka, One á and bouréki voulou í a í 210 32 27 368. youvétsi 4 each), t – One of the One of 2 Ouzerí Kouklis Ouzerí as í 210 32 20 666. 210 32 47 605. e ( t t on 18, on Plat é . ous 26,Thrass cnr ssou Eter é nous 4 ú é dhon 14 ó mezédhes 210 32 11 903. 210 32 tavernas with tables set out on set out with tables tavernas beneath the streets the stepped Acropolis.Theis a cut food that of most of its above neighbours, for pay though you setting. the romantic Vyzandino Kydhathin Filomo Reliable, that traditional taverna still attracts locals on this busy, a look in touristy square.Take the kitchen at the moderately priced daily specials, such as stuffed tomatoes, the like Skholiarhio Trip Attractive, taverna, split-level as also known Palio Tetradhio Palio Mnisikl t O Platanos Dhioy of the oldest tavernas in Pl of the oldest tavernas brought out on long trays so out on long trays brought can point to the ones that you fancy.that you Especially good flaming sausages, the are (thin pastry filled with ham and cheese) and grilled aubergine, wine is and the house red and cheap. palatable with a perennially popular with a perennially summer terrace, screened from the street. It has a great selection of with outdoor summer seating plane tree under the namesake the corner the around from Roman agora. Reasonably- priced specialities include chops lamb with artichokes and roast or spinach and potatoes.The thing. barrelled is the real retsina , 210 32 re best re ’ Places open all í t 210 32 12 t kritou mezédhes ó sas ú s live Greek music Greek s live ’ os 16 at Erot (casserole baked in a clay baked (casserole A restored old mansion A restored é a Anna,a local is a busier , the church overlooking í Delightful setting, with TAVERNA CLOSE-UP nos 24,Areto cnr Contents á 18 733. hangout favoured by young by hangout favoured Greeks. Palea Taverna Tou Psarra Tou Palea Taverna Erekhth day. 475. eves only, Taverna Ouzer Nefeli P the mostly Greek clientele.the mostly Greek In the summer, opens. the roof tables under a secluded grapetables arbour or in an old mansion with a panoramic view, on a peaceful side street. Does a small selection of interesting but moderately priced classic Greek and lamb dishes such as veal stamna pot).There most nights and a small dance floor.The adjacent synonymous ouzerí of Ay which include humble standards which include humble as pricieras well seafood and fish dishes. off sticking to the in a splendid setting, on a tree- shaded and bougainvillea-draped pedestrian crossroads.You Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES the area. in shopandgallery bar, restaurant, everygoing onandlists virtually excellent placetofindoutwhat of trendy restaurants, evening out Plat ifyou shopping streets: Ermo The traffic-free upperhalfof 70 website Psyrr whatever thetime. caf althoughthe deal toofferby day, itdoesn evening, Buzzingtilllateevery and bars. Mitrop of placesthatspillsonto functional rants tendtobesimpleand Monastir though. ent, are quitediffer- Their characters than anywhere elsein Athens. eating placespersquare foot and Psyrr Monastirak Market area around Plat shops canbefoundintheFlea Funkier the placetoheadfor. thisis Mothercare orBenetton, Zara orMarks&Spencer, longer attheheartofcity here, andthoughthedistrictisno major attractions times atleast.The has beenacommercial hubofthecitysinceRoman eating, drinkingandshopping.TheMonastir theless plentyofsightsandextensiveopportunitiesfor noisier, busierandmore geared toeverydayliving. though, its narrow lanesandtraces oftheancient.To theeast, Monastiráki Monastir around theForumfeelslikeanextensionofPl are stillcrowded withshopsandoffices. Thearea Less touristythanPl Contents Psyrr ewe hm Monastir Between them, é s seemtoattractcrowds í a Monastirak ú í ó isoneofthecity ismore ofaplaceforan – leos asitheadsupfrom

í w probably have more Odhós Ermoú – í www.psirri.gr ou. – especially theline hometoathrong ’ and t have agreat í ou. mezedhopol á Psyrrí ki restau- ’ re after Roman Forum í’ í s own a ’ á Places s prime á – á ka tothesouth,there are never- isan ki ki andPsyrr and parallel are enjoyablepartsofAthens. í ’ s a ticket. prominent remain onthesite. isstillthemost opposite), the Tower ofthe Winds (see alongwith which, Archegetis, through theGateof Athena side, main entrancewas onthewest Its older ancientGreek agora. Augustus asanextensionofthe Caesar andhissuccessor thereign ofJuliusbuilt during 8.30am April PelopEntrance at Roman Forum ’ s businesslife,itsstreets ROMAN FORUM – Sept 8am The Roman Forum wasThe RomanForum – is stilloneofthe 3pm. Mitropóleos E – 2 orjoint Acropolis 7pm; Oct í h,cnrE dha, á iarea ki á – ka, with March ó o.Daily: lou. are í PLACES Monastiráki and Psyrrí 71 – s alliances, ’ which have which been excavated. Inside the fenced site, just but outside the area market to the east, the are foundations of public latrines dat- the ing from first century AD. s assassination. ’ The best preserved s status as a renowned seat s status as a renowned ’ 138 AD).138 Among his grandiose – and easily the most intriguing of the ruins the Forum inside site is the graceful octagonal structure of the Tower as the known Winds.This the Forum, predates main and stands just outside the area.market Designed in the first of Andronikos century BC by Kyrrhos, a Syrian astronomer, it as a compass,served sundial, clock and water vane weather from a stream by the last powered springs.Acropolis one of the The Tower of the Winds of the Tower The Roman Forum. Macedonian rulers and incorporated the Macedonian rulers and incorporated ’ (reigned 117 Places Hadrian s Arch,s a magnificent and immense library and (though it ’ ousted Athens OU Í , senator a Roman who owned extensive lands in Marathon, s last major benefactor of ancient times. ’ of this period was shaped for the most part by the city Romans history TIA MONASTIRAK The one Roman emperor who did spend a significant amount of time in Athens, of time in The one Roman emperor who did spend a significant amount The Á had been begun centuries before) the Temple of Olympian Zeus.A of Olympian Temple had been begun centuries before) the generation later, Herodes Atticus became the city monuments are Hadrian and left his mark here, was which often proved unfortunate. In 86 BC, for example, for Athens Sulla punished its allegiance to his rival Mithridates by burning its fortificationsand looting its treasures. His successors were more lenient; Julius Caesar offered a free pardon sided with Pompey,Athens had after and Octavian (Augustus) showed similar Athens harboured Brutus following Caesar when clemency city into their vast new province of Achaia. The city Achaia. of new province city into their vast Roman Athens In 146 BC the of learning and great artistic centre ensured that it was treated with respect, treated that it was of learning ensured and great artistic centre Not much in demand in Rome. much were Athenian artists and architects and changed, in fact: few major construction projects, were there and what build- patterns. classical Greek tended to follow was ing there PL Contents This gate marked the end of a This gate marked the Greek leading up from street agora, and its four surviving impression a vivid columns give of the grandeur of the original portal. On the side facing the out can still make you Acropolis edict of Hadrianan engraved announcing the rules and taxes on the sale of oil. On the opposite side of the Forum, a second is also easily made out, gateway is the mar- the two and between itself,ketplace surrounded by colonnades and shops, some of Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES

ing was abronze weather vane Onthe topofthebuild- door. through theopennorthwest read by thewater level viewed thetimewas in themaintower; was channelled into acylinder the reservoir from whichwater wasattached tothesouthface eight sundials. to make outthe markingsof each oftheseitisstillpossible Beneath fying theeightwinds. personi- floating through theair, witharelief ofafigure adorned 72

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O E Across Contents Museum of Greek Musical Popular Instruments K I H Baths Market Meat & occupies a corner of the Forum site. Sultan dedicated by It was Mehmet II, conquered who Constantinople in 1453 ( There entrance, sadly, but can you means inside, it as archeological warehouse. archeological or less opposite the Forum entrance, and single the gateway dome of a school, survive. During the last of Ottoman ruleyears and the independ- of Greek early years Seafood Turkish PL.AY. IRINIS Flower Market PANDHROSSOU D Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES sheer scaleoftheplace. aswell asanideaofthe columns, outside ofthemany surviving you getagoodview from public, closedtothe columns.Though ofahundredcloistered court building thatonceencloseda Hadrian ing walls andcolumnsof Á throughstretching from right and site, endoftheForum north Á Hadrian ontraditionalGreek music. ingly, notsurpris- concentrating, sale, excellent selectionofCDsfor by exhibits. thevarious so you canhearthemusic made and headphonesetsare provided antecedents ofmany instruments, frescoes show theByzantine Reproductions of val masquers. and coingarlandswornby carni- livestock bells such astriangles, val instruments andliturgical ment) somemore unusual festi- including(inthebase- Greece, that hasever beenplayed in everything ofvirtually history tracesthe Musical Instruments 74 reos cnrDhex Contents reos toE The museum shophasan CERAMICS MUSEUM ’ irr,anenormous s Library, ’ s Library ó o,standthesurviv- lou, í ppou. Bordering the Bordering Places signs proclaiming thatyou are commercial neighbourhood. ofabustling is stilltheheart ketplace since Turkish timesand thisarea hasbeen amar- kiosks, stallsand fruit tickets, lottery Full ofvendors sellingnuts and church ( name from the little monastery Thessalon of ceramics es theKyriaz ithous- branch ofthatmuseum, Museum in1918.Today, asa home oftheGreek Folk Art before becoming theoriginal jail afterGreek independence, andthena verted toabarracks has hadachequered life of Tzisdar Pandhr andtheshacksof library 8.30am 8am Á Ceramics Collection Museum ofGreekFolk Art: Plat Monastir could notfitintothemainhall. occasions whenworshippers niches usedasextra of andaseries founder anddate, entrance recording themosque above inscription calligraphic the a ing thedirection ofMecca), striped lookoutforthe domed space, Intheairy, nal features remain. plentyoforigi- for themuseum, and withabalcony addedinside atleastasbiganattraction. seen, canbe mosques whoseinterior only oneof Athens the bly findthebuilding itself, mostpeoplewillproba- pottery; you have interest in aparticular esty likely toexciteyou onlyif thecollectionisinallhon- it is, between thewalls ofHadrian es1 April reos 1. In eachdirection you Though missingitsminaret, – í a Monastirak 7pm; Oct – ó 3pm. mihrab ssou standstheMosque monastir á á í ipoesr Goodas ki professor. – i.Biti 79 it Builtin1759, kis. ki FleaMarket Sept Tues e – – ó March Tues thelegacyofa 2. (the nicheindicat- poulos collection Squeezed á ki í ou getsits ) atitscentre. ’ – mihrabs old Sun – ’ ll see Sun – con- for ’ s ’ s PLACES Monastiráki and Psyrrí a – – é 75 leos some ó – 7.30pm; Sun 7.30pm; – is home to 1pm; Tues, Thurs – – means smoke means smoke a Mitrop í a s leos The pretty ó é ó A CHURCH , in these tiny looking kapn É 12.30pm & 5 12.30pm ú – polis is a large, clumsy a Mitrop ó í KAPNIKAR 11.30am. Free. – Plat spot of calm among A welcome sur- shopping streets the busy it,rounding Plat The Kapnikar Mon, & Sat 8am Wed 8 Byzantine church of Kapnikar Byzantine church less the begin- or marks more shopping upmarket ning of the on Ermo & Fri 8am & Fri Cathedral Square Cathedral Square cathedrals.Thetwo modern Mitr nineteenth-century edifice; the old cathedral alongside it is comparison, by dwarfed infi- but is attractive.There nitely more on been a church said to have earliest this site since the very Athens. of Christianitydays in dates from see now What you century,the twelfth a beautiful together little structure cobbled blocks plain and carved from earlier incarnationsfrom in the Byzantine era a tax on in the Byzantine era a tax smoke as the known houses was tax). high-rise urban surroundings. Originally century, eleventh but with later additions, it has a little dome and a gloomy lovely interior can just in which you out the modernabout make frescoes.The is allegedly church named after its founder, a tax collector ( almost certainly from that origi-almost certainly from nal church. ki á is at ú ki, the is s plenty Places á ’ stou there ). é shops special- – boards, as well If í as s Adhriano poet-sandalmaker í ssou is almost ó “ a Monastir ó í tavl see p.76 , of the real the relics ( ú ” ll find shops full of ’ s Pandhr a Avyssin ó í s overlooking the metro s overlooking é FLEA MARKET FLEA West of Plat West Contents entering the famous Monastir Flea Market.These this is a days bit of a misnomer of Athens flea market has more of its old has more flea market character, and among the tourist tat you in hopeless survive flea market rejects,jumble-sale a touted by cast of eccentrics (especially on Sundays). Odh ize in furniture and junky antiques: to here from Adhriano its most appealing at this end, with a couple of interesting antique shops, some shady and caf lines,AgoraAcropolis. and of shopping, mostly of a very but the east, nature.To conventional Odh entirely geared to tourists. geared entirely One of the most famous and quirkiest of is that of Stavros the shops here Melissinos, the as places geared to locals selling as places geared bikes, or camping skateboards gear.An off alley handmade musical instruments,handmade musical or chess and jammed with record and CD jammed with record shops, basement with a huge secondhand bookshop.Around Plat Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES vative upmarket styleofthecity. jewellers wiched between old-fashioned nearby inthefleamarket. are several othermusic places music onvinyl andCD.There old andnew rock andGreek even samurai swords. icons tobodypiercings and from anddecorativeellery items, shop withawiderangeofjew- that alsosellsitsown designs. clothing store inthefleamarket This pleasant upstairs emporium This pleasantupstairs Mitrop Kendro EllinikisParadosis Pandhr Gold Rose Ermo Fokas and thisdesignerstore Athenians love theirjewellery, Mitrop Apriati If 7+7 Kynn 2morrow Shops 76 ping area. shop- ofthefashion the heart é Contents stou 7. CATHEDRAL SQUARE é ú tou 3. ó ó 11 ó es9 cnrPendelis. leos 9, leos 59orPandhr ssou 85. . Department store at Department . A choiceselectionof – Vintage women istypicaloftheinno- Interesting little ó ssou 36. – sand- Places ’ s and much more. chandeliers robes, bible covers, paraphernalia gious behind thecathedralsellingreli- wonderfully stores old-fashioned thisisoneofanumber of cave, remote country districts. remote country ditional craftproducts madein copperware embroideries, outside a glittering outside aglittering Aladdin Plat Nikos Mavropoulos Ipat Organization National Welfare Dhioy Musical Instruments Museum ofGreekPopular Pandhr Stavros Melissinos make your own. to some simpleinstruments plus albeitnotcheap, music, tion ofCDstraditionalGreek There in thenearby fleamarket. the hard sell oftenencountered andmercifully littleof carving, especially ceramicsandwood- andcrafts, of traditionalarts other.There side andPandhr opens toMitrop í í s6 cnr Ap as 6, a Mitrop é nous 1 ó ’ s alsoaquietcaf ssou 89. ó sandalmaker alongside the continues tosell which Melissinos wine andthesea, his poeticmusings on out specificallyfor Lennon soughthim it issaidthatJohn Onassis andthelike; Jackie Beatles, out sandalsforthe hammering 1960s, inthe celebrity was somethingofa Melissinos Athens, – leos 10. ’ 3. s awideselection ó The llonos. Excellent selec- ó ó ssou onthe leos onone From the “ – poet- Rugs, icons, é ” . of – ’ s tra- PLACES Monastiráki and Psyrrí s s ’ á 77 sou- Floral s ’ a Pali í shopping , the ssou 36. ú ó a Plat í Next door to Kendro store, this s can be found s can be lou. has a small but é ó é (meatballs in ron. í é Over a century Over s á and oven dishes such and oven s.This is one of the . é ou. at good prices.There í ú 68 cnr E on Anary ú í a Ell leos 88, cnr Plat leos 59 or Pandhr s, the corner just round ka on the slope towards gyros ó ó é á á dhes , Antica Cioccalateria é a Ay raktaris í ï ki tsoutsoukakia á the has a summer roof terrace roof has a summer the can escape you where crowds. Agor the Roman Forum,from is of com- with the tables packed peting caf best for a quiet coffee or breakfast; sub- more serve also they stantial meals. Restaurants Ba Mitrop Mitrop inside the Tucked Ellinikis Paradosis atmospheric caf selection of traditional inspired mez Ydria Adhriano Floral Art Caf Plat Iy Or of the rooftops also a great view of Pl the Acropolis. old, occu- restaurant this lively buildings,pies two the walls lined with wine barrels and photos of celebrities. Some pedes- on the bustling are tables trian street, for a cosier but eat inside with the atmosphere local regulars, there where tle of the main Ermotle of strip. caf Similar north the side streets of in many of Ermo Monastirak often impromptu live Greek live often impromptu music.The straightforward, includes menu inexpensive vl as tomato sauce). s ’ , í Places and the lyra /bakery é It seems there ron. Genuine antiqui- Genuine í Inside a glossy new Overlooking the Overlooking but then many of then many but A good place to break Long-established – s 52. 25. are sold here, are with offi- ú ú on Anary í ssou 58. – é this place serves thirty this place serves ó

on every corner on every in Psyrr potterymainly, and coins Kornarou é rou 4. é – á é a Ay í

stou 36. Contents é cial export licences to guarantee and legality.authenticity Prices steep are 2000 years over the items are old. shopping centre in the flea mar- shopping centre district,ket this caf the from offers a quiet retreat outside.furore and cakes Great other bakery treats, too. Stoa of Attalos,Stoa of this place is jumble with a wonderful packed of antiques and curiosities, puppets, including old shadow brass doorknobs, instru- musical ments, pistols and more. Korn Caf Adhriano Bread Deli

Antica Cioccalateria Plat Caf Yiannis Samouelian Yiannis If Studio Kostas Sokaras Adhriano Annita Patrikiadhou Pandhr footwear.The translate sandals than the poems. better ties made into jew- some of them ellery your shopping tripyour for coffee and a sandwich, just off the bus- like. musical instrumentmusical shop in the heart of the flea market, selling hand-made guitars, but if you fancy change from a if you but frapp types of chocolate drink as well as a similar variety of teas. a caf Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES trendy littlestreet off Plat that reflect thelocation. standard taverna atprices fare live music mostevenings and the mainsquare inPsyrr on traditional also alternative is moderatelypriced, The food, with alocalalternative crowd. popular of thebestin Athens, thisrestaurant isone two floors, 13 765. Ay Mandhra Monastir cheap taverna attheedgeof Ay Iy Ipeiros R Gotzila Ap Furin Kazan Kynn Caf Plat Brachera 78 Closed Mon. Eves (from9pm)&Sunlunchonly. a centrallocation. popular diner-stylesushibarin ih on,andnotbadlypriced. night joint, Ay den offers views ofthe den offers Acropolis. theroof gar- Insummer, market. mansion overlooking theflea caf Greek andMediterranean 24 7.Daytimeonly. 32 45572. Eves only. Sun 10am Tues 17 047. Sun. and weekend lunchtimes. music mostweekday evenings handy forthe Agora. lar withlocalsforlunchand í ga Palam Contents í í ó on Anary ou Fil é í í llonos 2 on Anary a Avyssin é /bar/restaurant inarestored é Strikingly decoratedand Strikingly Abysinia o ,Plat tou 7, í Popular by placeright o,justoff Adhriano pou, Sushi barinthis – á í dhou 5 7pm. í ki fleamarket o ,cnr T ron 8, t pakt modern Upmarket, – í as 3 Sun 10am 1 22 7.Closed 210 3229170. í o.Mostlyalate- ron. í a Avyssin mez With diningon t – t a modern take amodern 210 3217202. 210 3221086. é dhes á – ki Very basic, 1am, Sat & Sat 1am, í as t .Live – 210 32 t í í ü ú Places with , a popu-

ber 210 32 t 210 nxesv,andalways packed Inexpensive, good value forthelocation. acoustic houseband. toaccompany the prices mez Excellent packed andlotsoffun. thisplaceisgenerally summer, in old houseandonaterrace est establishments inPsyrr andcheap- of themostoriginal Plat Taverna Plat Evrip Iy Stoatou Vangeli 12 677. Lepeni Iy PaleaSkala Mitrop O Thanasis Eskh Taverna touPsyrri there where of in thispart Athens, the best grills andabundant Greek salads. grills soups, sive taverna appetizers, inexpen- Itserves simple, order. ner where your meatsare cutto large butcher block inthecor- songbirds in ahugecageand decorincludes lunchtime.The andliveliest late ers during frequented by localwork- phere, with anauthenticGreek atmos- pur excellent foodincludes the evening.The square inPsyrr tables setoutonthelesscrowded to choosefrom thekitchen. soitmay beeasier Greek only, Menu indeliberatelyobscure some lesswell-known recipes. usually includingfresh fishand tastytraditionalfare, offering Mon closed Aug. nie there inside, place forpeople-watching; í é a Ir – é k í e) andtaverna standards, dhou 63 Sat 6am Sat dhes lou 12 ’ ó s plentyofcompetition. ó ó leos 69. o 5 cnrLeokor tou 25, With seatinginsidean on 1 souvl and wineatreasonable fava Congenial taverna t t – ’ t s oftenlive music in 210 3214923. 9pm (markethours); 210 32 11915. 210 á Reckoned tobe 1 25 1.Open 210 3251513. (hummus-like bean í ki a Ir í thisisagreat , and ó on gyros í ou t One í place With 210 32 , PLACES Monastiráki and Psyrrí 79 at ” 210 32 34 823. 210 32 47 94. 210 32 47 741. t happenings t 210 33 10 907. t Í “ t Small, cosy folk music ki í klas 5 nous 1 nous 30 é á á IN PSYRR É dhou 65 í as Th CAF í popular meeting place. meeting popular is Food duringserved the day. Pinakoth Ay Closed Sun. Blaze-T Aristoph disco with sounds Freestyle ranging techno. hip-hop to from Vibe Aristoph Minimalist, decor Japanese-style and frequent Live music Soul Garden Evrip with the bar/restaurant Popular bar,emphasis on Thai- serving influenced food, with a garden in summer, fine cocktails and a (Fritop-floor club & Sat). Clubs venue with appearances from venue respected foreign and Greek artists. this bar/club, featuring guest from everything DJs playing trance to house. í s ’ – This Places s so 210 32 ’ t 210 32 12 , this cool, ll have to ll have t í ron ’ , painted í and hummus, o í 210 33 11 335. lays more lays A typical Psyrr t crowd. ” mi í Thanks to a loca- ú midos s busiest barss busiest 210 33 14 601. é í’ on Anary í t halo ki metro station on ki metro dhou 5 , í á s A super-stylish, expen- á mezhedopol 697 74 69 356. Eves only. which gets really packed which gets really ki 28 claiming to serve 120 claiming to serve á

– t – li 6 cnr Th li 6 cnr sk ú ï

thos ki 3 ki 10,Ay cnr ga Palam Contents o beer restaurant í á á emphasis on the beer than the food beers plus eight from the barrel.beers plus eight from dishes have The accompanying an appropriately Germanic influence. partly perhaps because it small when the guest DJs crank it up later on. Eves only. modern, moodily lit bar is a “ as well as Greek favourites such as Greek as well feta,as baked grilled peppers and aubergine. baked 624. Closed Sun. Bee Miao One of Psyrr Astron T Bars Z Kara T Zidhoron R Yoga Bala Yoga with locals at lunchtime:with locals there no booking, so you 15 368.Aug. Closed sive Indian restaurant done out done Indian restaurant sive in gold and pink, catering to an Psyrrupmarket tion right an exit from by Monastir up to Psyrr the way upscale bright yellow and in a great loca- bright yellow tion right the square. by It serves tasty Middle Eastern foods like pastourm fight for a table.Watch for the a table.Watch fight for peppers,side dish of are which fiery. unusually Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES of alternative bars andrestaurants.of alternative bars cultural centre hassparked arush old gasworks asthe Tekhn area where thereinvention ofthe industrial isaformer Kerameikos, ofancient cemetery Athens. theremains ofthemain above all, inside theriches considering isremarkably littlevisited again, traditional places. caf address where and new bars an increasingly fashionable tavernas. and withsomeofthecity among theleastspoiltin Athens, bourhood of residential neigh- lies thequiet, sideofFilop On thefar 80 P accessed from Dhionys of pathsfornottoostrenuous walking. ing downovertheAcropolis itself.There are alsoplenty Acropolis site,theyoffer famousviewsofthecity, look- Filop West oftheAcropolis risethree substantialhills: Thiss Petr Contents G north The Kerameikos site, Thiss á DHIONYS é vlou, thepedestrianizedstreets thatrunaround the á s are edging outthemores are edging i tothewest of andnorth zi, á í ,t h ot fhr,is ofhere, tothenorth o, ppou Í OU AREOPAY á Á , lona no Petr í Pnyx ,G o, Í TOU á and the lona, á ppou ó Places ’ polis s best á – í ou Areopay zi and Hill oftheNymphs ih,soyou may want to take night, canfeelthreatening at derelict, somepartly and thestreets, trendy spotsare more scattered, InG younger crowd. drawing a some lively nightlife, and Iraklidh junction of Ap caf views ofthe Acropolis from some ofthebestnight-time with hasagoodmix, by metro, tavernasold-fashioned in rants ofG andrestau- bars youth-oriented everything from thelively, Plaka options authentic eatinganddrinking offer someexcellentand Petr ewe hm theseplaces Between them, é s around thetraffic-free á lona.Thiss ’ s tourist traps.Yous tourist í – tou orAp awelcome antidoteto á zi topositively sleepy, ó .Italsoprovides n. ó Á í ,easilyaccessed o, stolou P no ó á stolou i the zi, . Easily ’ á ll find vlou Á no 81

AHILLEOS DHELIYIORYI KOLONOU N

Athinaïs & AHILLEOS IASONOS Pieridhes Museum of Ancient Cypriot Art KOLOKYNTHOUS OS YIATRAKOU E 1 L LEONIDHOU O P IKOU U MYLLEROU O MARATHONOS

KERAM PLACES IN D THERMOPYLON N PARAMYTHIAS A S AKADHIMOU T A AYISILAOU S L N A A RTEM M O EGALOUMYKALIS ALEXANDHROU S K IN A M PFO S O ISIO S U O KOLOKYNTHOUS S R PLATAION O F U O KERAMIKOU Thiss E KORINIS MENANDHROU L LEONIDHOU EVRIPIDHOU Sodade IERA ODHOS G Á ZI PIREOS 3 ARISTOFANOUS 2 AYISILAOU

ASOMATON U

SARRI í O EVMOLPIDHON o, G DHIPYLOU 4 LEM Entrance L I 5 E R IPTO V O U O R PLATIA T A D Kerameikos K H O A á N O TR S IROON P R E R Entrance I I zi and S E Tekhnópolis O K F 8 U PSYRRÍ A 6 O First K N S I S Ï 7 Synagogue Áyii A R Cone Floga A Asómati K M ERMOU ORFEOS S I S Thissio O IK 10 N Dimitris Á R E O I 9 L Vasiliou P A Monastiráki no Petr S S Camel Flea Market E

IRAKLIDHON H S Entrance T O V N A S I L O IR I S H AK T L I 11 Ancient H D NILEOS HO THISSÍ O IK N Agora

S E á X O Y N R E lona O N E 12 Entrance G A L A T I A S AKAMANTOS 13 Áyii APOSTOLOU PAVLOU Apostoli Ayía Marina THRIASION

National Acropolis Observatory N Ö FYLASIONTRION IERARHON O of Athens R T Areopagus Entrance THESSALONIKISMELITEON Hill of the US Rock NO Pnyx E DHIMOFONDOS H S T U S O I E Theatre of L L L PALLINEON K Hill of the A I Herodes K S I Nymphs Atticus T Áyios S DHIONYSIOU AREOPAYITOU KYDHANTIDHON Dhimítrios

RO VE 14 RTO U G IONON AL TRION IERARHON GARIVALDI LI

EOLEON15 17 PR

16 O

18 PY Prison of LEO

Dora Stratou Socrates N KALLISTHENOUS Theatre Á NO DHRAKOU DHIMOFONDOS DHRYOPON Monument PETRÁ LONA Filopáppou MARKOU MPOTSARI of Filopappus N Hill O ARKADHON S U ARAKYNTHOU O YEN M N Ö N O A EOU KOLOKOTRON S R IT T R A 19 H OTHRYOS PANETOLIOU TZAMI KARATASIZA VEIKOU EATING & DRINKING

ROUMELIS Athinaion Politeia 12 Mamacas 6 I Barfly 4 Skoufias 16 Dirty Ginger 7 KOUKAKITa Sokakia tou R O I S L L I R Dirty Str-eat 2 Thiakou 19 K A R I L D H A 45° 5 Stavlos 11 I T S A P A N A Y Ikonomou 14 To Steki tou Ilia 10 THISSEOS Interni 8 T’Askimopapo 17 Khrysa 15 Thalatta 9 0 300 m Kirki 13 Votanikos 1 To Koutouki 18 Zei 3

Contents Places Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES from Petr places are also easilyaccessible andmost from thecentre, ride Petr itcanbedeserted. week, end nightandoverFriday theweek- comes intoitsown lateon – before 11 ordrink eat before 9, Muses antiquity asthe Filop up Acropolis entrance, Areopay traffic-free Dhionys A network ofpathsleadsfrom Filop there G a taxi. 82 of 1967.The hill of 1967.The theircoup on theslopesduring thecolonelsplaced tanks recently, more Parthenon was lobbed; that destroyed theroof ofthe it was from here thattheshell role inthecity ifgenerallysorry, an important, sotake care). here, occurred havenight-time muggings especially atsunset(although Acropolis andthecitybeyond, viewsvides fabulous ofthe peeal ae.Itreally preferably later. Contents This strategic height has playedThis strategic VIEW FROMFILOP á – lona, too, is a short taxi isashort too, lona, ’ á á s not much point trying to s notmuch pointtrying b a,andearlyinthe by day, puHl,alsoknown in ppou Hill, ” ppou Hill í ( á o,below the tou, L zi isalate-nightplace: á lona metro. ó fos Mous ’ itr.In1687 s history. Á “ ’ PPOU HILL s summitis Hill ofthe í ó ou n .Itpro- ). Places Á no on inarticulate orfoolishspeak- on inarticulate though theassembly was harsh could voice theiropinions, all atleastintheory, vote and, malecitizenscould crowd.All from whichtoaddress the convenient semicircular terrace sideprovidingon thenorth a thehill issues were aired here, political except themostserious timesayear.All than forty whichgathered more assembly, ing placeforthedemocratic in Classical Athens asthemeet- The HillofthePnyx was used The Pnyx Stratou Theatre ( Stratou Theatre frieze.To thewest istheDora onits hischariot depicted driving whois Filopappus, consul, ment toaRomansenatorand monu-capped by agrandiose Á church of sixteenth-century pasttheattractive ancient walls, path follows alineoftruncated themain the way upthehill, prison ofSocrates. prison thanevidence) asthe imagination known (more from dwelling, can make outakindofcave you nearthebaseofhill, face intherock- down, Further coes. Byzantinefres- are someoriginal yios Dhim í trios see p.169 insidewhich , .On ). PLACES Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona s, , á 83 see it was – s or Sacred ó Pompeion ). Odh á .The inner wall s, Eleusis and the á p.137 and city wall OBSERVATORY To the right of the entrance To Between the two gates are the gates are the two Between can be seen the double line of can be seen the double the by together hastily cobbled was the men, and children women 479 BC while Athens in of to pretending Themistocles was disarmamentnegotiate a mutual with Sparta.treaty roads Two here: the wall pierced the great in the busiest Gate was Dipylon the ancient city, the road where Pire from north entered; Gate the Sacred entrance a ceremonial was the Ier where the city entered Way used for the Eleusinian and ( processions Panathenaic p.54 foundations of the with a peri-a spacious building style courtyard, used for the proces- of festival preparation the sacral items sions and where proces- used at the Panathenaic stored. sion were Branching off Way, the Sacred to the left from Tombs,which of the the Street to Pire is actually the old road Places n) is so . Open first ó s a peace- ’ where the where Providing a Providing The Hill of the . in Entry included ú stoas s channel, speckled fos Nymf www.noa.gr ó ó w s something of an oasis ’ s and out to sea. á Contents called because nymphs were called because nymphs whirl- associated with the dusty is par- winds to which this hill ticularly prone. lower Slightly and quieter than its better- neighbours,known it across ful place with good views of to the western suburbs Athens and beyond, as as well pleasant shaded walks.The sum- the impres- mit is dominated by of the Neoclassical bulk sive Athens. National Observatory of First opened in 1842, though later additions,with many it has been in operation as a research since. institute ever assembly would have taken have would assembly refreshment.This atmospheric commanding setting provides views,Acropolis while benches to you side allow on the west the vista across contemplate Pire Nymphs (L Entrance on Ermo Kerameikos joint Acropolis ticket. Fri of every month. Fri Hill of the Nymphs Observatory ers.There impressive some are the original of remains walls, formedwhich theatre-like the court, and of fascinating and quiet retreat Acropolis, the from the site encompasses, Kerameikos among other things, a section of the old city wall, important two gates to the city, the Pompeion, proces- which ceremonial from sions started, and, all, above part of the principal cemetery of Athens,ancient just which lay the walls.Always peace- beyond ful, there feel about the place, with the lush Iridhan lilies,with water across flowing east to west. it from Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES the street. sideof with adog onthenorth the poignantstatueofagirl suchas humbler monuments, are alsomany morea bull.There shape ofapillarstelesupporting inthe Dionysios ofKollytos, contains theMonument of adjacentplot on hishorse.The w Pire Tekhn there who diedinbattle394BC; a20-year-old warrior Dexileos, of path istheMemorial massive basetotheleftof The sculptedcrescent withthe Hellenistic orRomanperiods. from the that you seeare later, thesarcophagi Classical world; monuments ofthe funerary vertical stelaewere themain flat, stones orreplicas reinstated.The andtheiroriginal monuments, numerous commemorative eachcontaining can beseen, twenty Some wealthy Athenians. were reserved fortheplotsof been excavated alongeitherside moundsthathaveThe burial heads through the 84 the G gasworksformer from which Contents www.athens-technopolis.gr KERAMEIKOS SITE ó s 100 ’ s arelief sceneofDexileos á ó zi district takes itsname zi district polis t 210 3467322, cemetery .The Places . uemad thereal purpose museum and, bar andcaf a two restaurants, movie screen, music space, contains atheatre, theAthina factory, early twentieth-century silk magnificent restoration ofan 10am Museum here isasmall display The onlypermanent preserved. machinery original ofthe many withparts created, as well asacaf sizes, exhibition hallsofvarying and galleries them, surrounding stations andboilerrooms pumping while inthevarious w Kastori Athina a fur coat, is really for fans only. is really for fans a furcoat, plusapairofgloves and photos, and letters collection ofpersonal Tekhn theotherfor 98.4FM, glass offices haveholders becomecircular photography.Two round gas- and art contemporary mostlyof exhibitions, andchanging concerts ofspacesfor stunning series has beenconverted intoa www.athinais.com.gr – á ó s 34 p;fe) whose free), 5pm; ï polis administration s – (Mon é 36 xiiinhls a exhibitionhalls, , – onefor Athens t é Maria Callas Maria have been , 210 3480000, – Fri ï s complex . A – PLACES Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona , zi 85 210 á t Fri – Interni nis 210 34 67 ó t from Catering – neo- dhon í “ option for those 210 34 74 763. Eves This mid-range to ” 210 34 60 347. Eves t t 210 34 68 900. Eves is a moderate-to- - style eating places - style eating t mou 46 & Persef ” é n & Kydhant mou 12 food bar 152 Barfly Barfly é One of the óö dhon 34 “ Basic, priced moderately ú á with less time. only. eves only, Sat & Sun daytime & eves. for a youngish clientele, for a youngish with its minimalist decor, fusion Greek-European stresses food for serious diners and an easy sardines and smelt to thick fillets sardines of sea bass and snapper. expensive restaurant has now restaurant expensive to include expanded its menu meat in addition to the wide selection of seafood Ikonomou Cnr Tr Interni Ermo Dirty Ginger Cnr Triptol 34 23 809. only: Summer Mon and of Greek A tasty mixture food at moderate prices,foreign seating in the with garden recorded summer.With lively music,Greek it attracts a young crowd. Dirty Str-eat Triptol only,Tues. Mon & closed Restaurants Barfly Vout industrial the G all around popping up area, American-style expensive diner with Mediterranean overtones. Good burgers just a touch with of Greece. only, Sun. closed home cooking served to packed home cooking served in summer. tables pavement rabbit Recommended dishes are lamb. and oven-baked stew 555. as An s on ’ ) Places dhes é ntos. (daily á mez Lizard 210 34 69 960. 210 33 16 433. t t although it 3) is beautifully o í – E with a fabulous s Flea Market. Items é ’ vlou 31 vlou, cnr Akam á á 1pm; s 1, Thiss – ú é . served. Light meals also

lou P lou P dhes Museum of dhes é ó ó í

Contents Apost Another caf Kirki Apost Athinaion Politeia Caf

Dimitris Vasiliou Dimitris Vasiliou Adhriano A neat little craft shop in Monastiraki Shops and on sale include attractive colourful ceramics and the from handmade jewellery Cyclades Islands. of the place,of the sizeable a centre.Theconference Pier Art Ancient Cypriot 9.30am enviable position in an old enviable mansion, from with great views the the terrace towards Acropolis, this an makes a over excellent place to relax frapp well as drinkswell and ice creams. with the clientele of the Popular club ( late-night gay upstairs. Acropolis view from its outdoor from view Acropolis tables, serving good presented in four small galleries, in four presented exhibits with some top-class and very including ceramics early glassware might seem strange to be might seem admiring these Cypriot objects Athens.The shop is in museum (and lavishly full of lavish priced) arty gifts, while upstairs artare galleries with temporary exhibitions. Details of what can be found on the website or can be found on the website in the local press. Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES grilled meat. grilled mashed butter bean traditional taverna serves good thisinexpensive,flyover, tucked justinsidethe Hill, speciality. honey-roast porkisthehouse 614. music on weekends. small square andlive Greek withoutdoor tables ona service, managementand Friendly lamb chopsandmixed salads. known foritspastawithlobster, to book. Best midnight theDJstake over. G of therestaurants thatmade Stratigo Ta Sokakiatou Thiakou closed Sun. Tr Skoufias Persef Mamacas seating overlooking Filop housewithroofLike acountry Lak To Koutouki includingcurry. sauces, various smoked salmonandduckin cuisinelike international serving some pavement seating, restaurant with pricey and fairly closed June Eves only, Dhimof Khrysa 86 mid-range seasonaldishes of withavariety taverna scene, ontheGreek variation modern lively tilllate everywhere here doesn mez Traditional Greek food, andwellfashionable heeled. withtheyoung,favourite ws.It twist. óö Contents á ifsinbe andstilla zi fashionable, í ou 9 n 63 é A large, mid-priced taverna mid-priced A large, dhes ó ó nis 41 ú ndos 81 ’ t t arypie,andlike pricey, s fairly Kolokotr sye withamodern -style, 1 45 5.ClosedSun. 210 3453655. 1 41 1.Evesonly, 210 3412210. A pleasantand t – 210 3464984. t ó sometimeafter ni 58 210 3412515. – Sept. f t á va va 210 9249 ’ t get and Classy Places á ppou – One the busy. creative and the menu isfresh, fish.Young instyleandoptions, Ancient Greek) specializesin I T Eptah To StekitouIlia classics. fusionandstandard Greekfast mixture of moderately priced foodisa cafeteria.The and gallery eating placeasabar, hip hangoutisasmuch an this meeting pointsinthearea, now oneofthemore popular thenineteenthcentury,during usedasroyalOriginally stables Iraklidh Stavlos closed Mon& Tues. EvesandSun lunchonly; 60 076. Artemis Zei Kastori Votanikos Sun. V Thalatta finest lambchopsinthecity. Renowned forsomeofthe a namesake down. 200mfurther popular theowners have opened towards Thiss road up the pedestrianized expensive. Mid-rangeto salads andthelike. aswell as Greek food, modern in the Athina style place modern-brasserie big, pricey fairly the diningarea, marine-themed dining forbalmy days. androoftop creamy sauces, disheslike meatin priced reasonably taverna withunusual, Oct Sun. ó í ’ non 61 tonos 5 Askimopapo – April. This mid-rangetaverna on Housed inamodernistic, á lkou 5 á ó í s 34 u4 cnrKeramiko ou 4, n 10 t t A wonderful winter 1 46 8.Closed 210 3463282. 1 46 0.Closed 210 3464204. – t t 36 Thalatta 1 45 5.Closed 210 3458052. 210 3467206. ï í ope,serving s complex, o stationisso t 210 3480000. Charming old Charming ( “ ú sea

t 210 34 ” in A PLACES Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona 87 210 t o one í – Small gay 210 34 68 657. 210 34 58 118. 210 34 13 952. Stylish gay t t ton, Thiss t á zi zi Relaxed, upstairs á á zi á 4.30am. – polis centre. 3.30am. 4am. ó – – on Asom í mou 10, G mou 35, G é é fonis 19, G a Ay dishes out a mix of í é mainly a young crowd; a young mainly Fridays 1980s. the from music feature crowd and great music and great music crowd room plays Greek and Greek plays room mainstream, the other quality dance music. club that packs in the crowds club that packs music. with Greek Daily 10pm Raj Club Plate levels, three over Scattered the Raj dance to a backdrop mainstream of ethnic, and 1970s Japanese decor motifs. Guest DJs make occasional appearances. Sodade Triptol Daily 11pm Cone Triptol Daily midnight Floga Pers 62 77 382. midnight. Opens gay bar/club with a view over bar/club with a view gay the Tekhn á In the k dhes ï é Places zi. A big, á mez 210 34 76 s busy and s busy Indie rock ’ t o bar area, this í o í tika and la é 210 34 67 206. /bar/restaurant é t which makes a good which makes Sat when it n 74, Thiss n 10 é ó ó –

s live reb s live ’

° khou 18,Voutadhon. cnr Contents á and pop music are the themes at are and pop music bar club,this newish drawing heart of the Thiss heart of the evolves at night into a funky evolves soul bar/club with jazz and sounds. daytime caf daytime

Camel Club Iraklidh Clubs Stavlos Iraklidh

45 L Bars house servinghouse imaginative and Greek Anatolian enclosed courtyard.in an Best Thurs lively rock-music themed rock-music lively bar/caf place to meet up in G 847. Opens 11.30pm. there music. Platía Omonías and around PLACES S outbetween strung buildings ofelegantNeoclassical a series and enjoyable specialistmuseums clutch ofsmallthoughquite thearea ishometoa sights go, fresh produce. markets sellinganabundance of punctuatedwithvast flowers, everything from power toolsto plying andbazaars shops extensive patchwork ofsmall areas of Athens andboastsan oneoftheliveliest however, is, It 88 Greece programme thatfollowed of theambitiousbuilding trs thoughstocked mainly stores, on Athin market orbazaarisconcentrated Omon geared totouristsandthe Athenian well-heeled,Plat different from ordered, chicandurbaneS gritty andworkingclass,Om revolve around everydaycommerce andtrade.Chaotic, While Pl around Plat a Contents As far asmore conventionalAs far The core ofthecity OM ndagma andOm Ó NIA SQUARE ’ s independencein1821. í s(Om as á s and E and s á ka, S í a Omon ó ó f i qae anditsneighbouringstreets nia Square) lou streets.The ndagma andKolon ó i,alegacy nia, ’ s modern Places ó í slabs. from theseaglisteningonmarble withallmannerofbounty ket, section ofthehall isthefishmar- Inthemiddle for thesqueamish. livers andears hearts, forests ofcarcasses andmoundsof fretted iron awnings shelter Its building. nineteenth-century setinagrand seafood market, est ofthemarkets isthemeatand Cnr Athin The meatandseafoodmarket peoples. blend ofcultures and in ariotous Athens asEastand West mingle soundsandsmellsofurban sights, some ofthemostcompelling offers markets andsmallshops, of home toabustling series parexcellenceandnow district Athin cooi,throbbing Odh Acropolis, from Om M found onE Evrip especiallyalong in themiddle, cluster around thecentralmarket and Arist dominate onPlat forexample, goods, Electrical together by specialization. way thatthey are grouped the Oriental in stillreflect theirorigins goods, manufactured with imported nia infactcouldn as and Barrelling resolutely southwardsBarrelling á rkou. á í á hu andclothesare dhou, ki are resolutely ,oncethearea s, á n Evrip s and í hu whilefoodstores dhou, ó nia Square towards the ó lou and Ay souk f ndagma. í í system inthe a Klafthm dhou. ’ t bemore – ’ s red-light noplace The liveli- í ou ó s í a ó nos 89

N N

O PSARON I

S L VODHA O Ï SAMOUM I AIZONOSCHIOU L MIHA FAVIEROU PLACES

1 ALKIVIADHOU KERAMEON M Metaxourghio AKOMINATOU

ODHYSSEOS DHELIYIANNI

AHILLEOS V ÁTHIS ON

PLATIA VICTOR HUGO I PSARON S KARAISKAKI FAVIEROU MAYERAHARNON

Plat M O KAROLOU AIZONOS I MEGALOU L Rodon ALEXANDHROU ARISTOTELOUS í MAYER PLATIA MARNI a Omon VATHIS INATOU MARNI STOURNARI AYIOU KONSTANDINOU HALKOKONDHYLI AKOM LEONIDHOU National SATOVRIANDHOU VERANZEROU Theatre MENANDHROU SOLOMOU í

ZINONOS as and around KERAMIKOU KAPODH

IASONOS Elatos DHELIYIORYI 2 ISTRIOU 3- SEPTEMVRIOU AYISILAOU Hondos SOKRATOUSCentre KOLONOU Omonia M MENANDHROU 3 PIREOS Omonia M PLATIA S OMONIAS O M G 4 Omonia IN M Omonia N PLATIA LYKOURGOU KA KANINGOS 5 SOFOKLEOUS OMÓ NIA

S THEMISTOKLEOUS MENANDHROU SOKRATOUS EOLOU (PATISSION)NIKITARA

PLATIA AKADHIMIAS THEATROU Lambropoulos T 8 6 Town A Main

7 D KLISTHENOUSHall Post Office

H EMMANOUIL BENAKI

I O Fruit & FIDHIOU

PLATIA U EVRIPIDHOU KIAFAS

Vegetable KOTZIA Road Editions (200m) U SOFOKLEOUS YEORYIOU O Bazaar L STAVROU Y ATHINAS EOLOU SANTAROZA H K 10 S E Bachar ARSAKI HARILAOU TRIKOUPI PLATIA Meat & Stoa IROON 9 Athanaton

Seafood PANEPISTIMIOU Market PESMAZOGLOU Xylouris IPPOKRATOUS Áyii ATHINAS ARISTEIDOU National Theodori City Bus EOLOU M Library I LT I AD Terminal HO P Panepistimio U R A Y A M IA X PLATIA KORAI I S AYIOU MARKOU I PLATIA T R E KLAFTHMONOS ERMOUIN IS AY. IRINIS L Panepistimio Athens O

Flower U PAPARIGOPOULOU M University

S Ayía Market LEOHAROUS Irini City of Athens Iy Folia M ATHINA KOLOKOTRONI Museum tou Vivliou IT R O P O National

L Ï STADHIOU E Kapnikaréa DHOSROMVIS Historical O S Áyios LEKKA Museum THISEOS Dionysios OMIROU

EATING & DRINKING AKADHIMIAS STOA Eleftheroudakis Athinaïkon 8 EMBORON PERIKLEOUSLIS BarMNISIKLEOUS Guru Bar 7 U AMERIKIS O V EVANGELISTRIAS Numismatic Cellier le Bistrot 11 ERMOU Ideal FOKIONOS10 Museum KlimatariaAPOLLONOS 6 11 MITROPOLEOS LefterisADHRIANOU IPATIAS2 S < NDAGMA VOUKOURESTIOU To Monastiri 9 VASSILEOS YEORYIOU Lalaounis Nargis 4 Hotel Grande Bretagne KRIEZOTOU Pak Indian IPITOU5 PLATIA Taÿgetos 3 SYNDAGMATOS Vangelis 1 0 200 m Syndagma M NIKIS

Contents Places Platía Omonías and around PLACES now springing up.now springing houses cheap andcheerfulcurry minimarkets and spice-rich aroundin largenumbers the gathers predominantly Bengalis, community from South Asia, Evrip dent inthestreets around increasing multi-ethnicity isevi- cheese. ofolivesbarrels andwheels of saltcod, with sacksofpulses, Grocers piletheirstallshigh suspended archeological dig. bazaar isarrayed around a edge ofthecrag. and pedimentpeekingover the Erechtheion withthe rock ofthe Acropolis, approach takes you towards the coming from Om walk tosouth, itnorth views: Ir ered around thechurch of Ay ntrso eteis but it is ofaesthetics, in terms Plat Plat E The flowermarket Athin The fruitandvegetablebazaar 90 n.E ing. the crowds onaSunday morn- but really comesalive with week, ó Contents í Just west ofhere,Athens lou. i hasstallsthroughout the ni, SEAFOOD MARKET í á í a Om a Om s. h lwrmre,gath- The flower market, ó í lou itself also offers fine lou itselfalsooffers dhou The fruit andvegetableThe fruit ó ó nias haslittletooffer ’ nias s slendercolumns where agrowing , ó i,andyour nia, Places ’ í a htgahcacie,an archives, photographic are also displays.There context ofthe the historical leaves of thevisitor alittleshort minimallabelling Unfortunately, Byron Independence thatincludes strong sectionon the War of time ofKingOtto.There Constantinople through tothe from theFallof history Museum focusesonGreek The NationalHistorical Stadh National HistoricalMuseum safe asanywhere elseinthecity. square are anditssurrounds as the slightly seedyinatmosphere, outlets.Though and fast-food front ofamish-mashshops clustered in watchstraps toporn, sellingeverything from kiosks of thesquare isdominatedby and makeovers.The perimeter renovationsseemingly perpetual has beenundergoingphasesof whilethesquare above housed, of thedingyshopsitonce made over andisnow stripped ground sectionhasbeentotally theunder- the expandedmetro, interchanges on the principal oneof iest andmosturban.As itis Athens atitsearth- and cars, ofpeople continuous turmoil ofthepopulation.A portion of the heart Athens foragood í u1.Tues ou 13. ’ s sword and helmet. – Sun 9am – 2pm. ’ s a e 3. PLACES Platía Omonías and around 91 s throne ’ Sun – Housed in a 3. Aromatic bags of Aromatic e ou 12. Tues í 3pm. – dhou 31. í kitchenware, and deco- crockery rations, rich as well as collec- in a furnituretions of displayed series period of lavish rooms the king which include as his personal as well room of his wife and office and that Amalia.Thereconsort is also a fascinating as model of the city in 1842,it was just three with of houses and a section hundred the ancient city walls. Bachar Evrip Numismatic Museum Panepistim Shops 8.30am teas, herbs and medicinal in large sacks. remedies grand building, collec- vast this 600,000 tion comprises over coins, ranging Mycenaean from Classical, times through to Macedonian and Roman Byzantine and the modern era. In addition, weights, are there lead stamps, medals, precious of stones and a rich archive documents. 5. e Places a í 7, Plat s exhibits include ’ – www.athenscitymuse- 2pm, Tues. closed w – lou 5 ú nos ó . 10am ndagma) was completed in ndagma) was LITTLE INDIA The second building is con- The second building The museum Contents the reign of King Otto and the reign a paintings and prints, carvings items such as and everyday The City of Athens Museum The City of is concerned with a fairly narrow period of modern history Greek – the Athenian cultural life in post-Otto period, and is housed in of the oldest buildings in two Athens.Thethe city of main of the residence was building the German-born King Otto in palace the new the 1830s before Parliament, the (now on S 1843.Appropriately enough, the one floor is dedicated to couple.royal Highlights include their exquisitely furnished pri- studies,vate and dining room room. throne nected to the first via a covered and comprises a col- walkway lection of period furniture as as an art gallery. well City of Athens Museum City of Paparigopo ethnographic collection, a library and historical archives. Klafthm um.gr 92

Eleftheroudhakis is reasonably priced and stocks Panepistimíou 17.The city’s best just about everything you could bookshop, with five floors of want. It has several floors of English books.There’s also an clothes, as well as a top-floor Internet café and an excellent café with Acropolis views. cafeteria with a large selection of vegetarian dishes and sweets. Lalaounis Panepistimíou 6. Home-base outlet PLACES Iy Folia tou Vivliou of the world-renowned family (The Book Nest) of goldsmiths, whose designs are Panepistimíou 25, in the arcade and superbly imaginative and very upstairs. The city’s most eclectic expensive. selection of English-language fiction, with a good collection Lambropoulos of recent academic work on Eólou 99 t210 32 45 811. One of Greece, and back issues of the Athens’ oldest and biggest as and around í Korfes hiking magazine.There’s department stores, also a full-sized travel shop on Lambropoulos is also one of the the ground floor, with the biggest, stocking clothes, complete line of Rough Guides household goods, sporting a Omon í and Anavasi maps. goods and electrical items at reasonable prices. Plat Hondos Centre Platía Omónias 4 t210 52 82 804. Road Editions The city’s top department store; Ippokrátous 39. Has a good mix of though it’s definitely no Harrods English and Greek travel guides, – low-ceilinged, cramped and plus their own and other crowded – the Hondos Centre companies’ maps. Xylouris Panepistimíou 39, in the arcade. Run by the widow of the late, great Cretan singer Nikos Xylouris, this is currently one of the best places for Greek popular, folk and (of course) Cretan music. Stocks items unavailable elsewhere. Restaurants Athinaïkon Themistokléous 2 t210 38 38 485. Closed Sun. An old ouzerí that has recently relocated, but without losing its style – marble tables, old posters, etc. Good-sized, mid-priced mezédhes include shrimp croquettes and mussels simmered with cheese and peppers.

PERIPTERO, OMÓ NIA Contents Places PLACES Platía Omonías and around 93 A , , ki ki á á 210 52 25 210 52 souvl t souvl and , this small (tripe and ; draught the á á s s interesting ’ á stoa on (sign in Greek). 210 52 35 352. 210 32 19 412. í s also a decent ’ 210 52 48 775. t t ndhou 20 ndhou 20 pats lou 81).24hr. Open t á mayireft ó fresh and delicately fresh A simple, cheap to mayireft A no-frills, budget – ndhou 4 676. Lefteris Satovri Monastiri To Central meat (entrance market from E The best of the three here;restaurants the raw mid-range grill restaurant serving decent special stuffed beef patties special stuffed and good. also very wines are ous 60 á é ndhrou 13 getos á ni 6, cnr Lioss í ÿ Closed Sun. ingredients are certainlyingredients are fresh, and it serves soup),trotter a good reputedly cure. hangover Vangelis Sah One of the friendliest and most in central authentic tavernas Athens, garden with a relaxing in use in summer. of Mixture Bengali canteen wins no prizesBengali canteen wins no for decor, has an authentic but and meat Indian atmosphere and vegetarian curries at very prices.low Ta Satovri Nargis Sofokl inside a Tucked Pak Indian Men restaurant with great restaurant beautiful Indian restaurant, at odds with its somewhat surroundings.The food is excellent spiced, and there grilled sold by lamb and chicken the kilo.There selection of draught wine. palatable (recorded) music,(recorded) as the as well concert. occasional live s ’ A fun , “ á , with Places dhes é mayireft 210 32 46 530. mez 210 33 03 000. 210 36 38 525. 210 32 16 629. t t t t with a Thai twist. with a A mid-range ” ou 46 ou 12 trou 10 trou 2 í í á á s live piano music. s live ’ tika music sessions.tika music It serves a The a The í é í VANGELIS TAVERNA VANGELIS Contents carafes of ouzo or draught retsina. Closed Sun. mid-range, type of old-world with rightlytaverna popular sessions of Smyrna-inspired reb a variety of rich restaurant with bright,restaurant cheerful art deco decor, serving traditional, old-style imaginative daily specials and a imaginative decent selection of foreign- dishes. inspired Plat Klimataria Ideal Panepistim With a Greek/internationalWith and a wide selection of menu wines, carefully are all dishes presented. and well prepared It Cellier le Bistrot Panepistim The moderately priced dishes authentic, pretty are though fast, up to appeal to its dressed funky clientele. Busy and sometimes noisy Busy and sometimes noisy restaurant Bar Guru Bar Plat popular with the business com- popular with the business for lunch,munity while at night there 94

grilled and oven food with The city’s most important venue superb kondosoúvli and kokorétsi for foreign and Greek rock, soul their real speciality. Handy for and reggae groups – there’s a the train station. good atmosphere in this converted cinema. Live music Stoa Athanaton Sofokléous 19 t210 32 14 362. PLACES Elatos 3–6pm & midnight–6am; closed Sun & Trítis Septemvríou 16 t210 52 34 May–Aug. Rebétika place fronted 262. Closed Wed. An eclectic by bouzoúki veterans assortment of dhimotiká. Hondronakos and company, and serving good taverna food at Rodon reasonable prices, but drinks are Márni 24, Platía Váthis, Ambelókipi expensive. t210 52 47 427. Closed in summer. as and around í a Omon í Plat

Contents Places PLACES The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli – 95 s s ’ ’ s top ten ’ o), the university í junta, the occupying ’ rhia and rhia (Polytekhn school of engineering and science, in a significant role played history. Greek recent In 1973 students here November against the launched a protest regime of the repressive colonels building and courtyards.building In response, snipers indiscrim- fired inately into the protestors. Even many today, how nobody knows killed unarmed students were to twenty estimates range from hundred.Thethree anniversary is still commem- of the massacre and sombre marches orated by celebrations. remembrance á – poli is á Places

fos tou ó poli, the little-

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RHIA SQUARE

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é é á EX While not a tourist sight as Contents

Ne The area though still bohemian, crowd. sedate, more the main thoroughfares is nowadays home to a slightly is nowadays the main thoroughfares tionaries, artists and students, the area to the north of to the north students, the area tionaries, artists and Traditionally the stomping ground of anarchists, revolu- of anarchists, stomping ground the Traditionally

Museum, Ex The Archeological The Archeological Museum, one of the world Archeological outstanding highlight is the fabulous National outstanding highlight museums and an essential stop on any tour of Athens. museums and an essential There are few specific sights few are There otherwise, it but part of the city for a wander part for a wander of the city restaurants, caf abound in the studenty area of area abound in the studenty Ex from the densely packed streets the densely packed from of the city. fine views and affords such, building the Neoclassical housing the Polytechnic Str visited Str sometimes the music itself.sometimes the music Ne Overlooking home to a swathe of good,home to a swathe low- tavernas,key featuring many reb 96 Bus Terminal (10m)

N M ETSOVOU ATEON IOULIANOU M 1 VASILEOS IRAKLIOU KYVELLIS LEOFOROS AVROM M

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Contents Places

PLACES The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli

97 S

6 7 3 9 5 T

S FANARIOTON

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MAVROMIHALI miniature golden owl and frog golden owl miniature Nestor from golden-horned ALEXANDHRAS Tiryns Important finds from frescoes include Cretan-style depicting chariot-borne women hounds in pur- spotted watching

A The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli PLACES duced inthemuch-repro-strikingly Cubistart of modern idols suggesttheabstractforms Many ofthese Aegean islands. Mycenaean piecesfrom the Cycladic board. thesound- sphinxes adorning Helmet notably amagnificent most ences toHomerabound, refer- Further es anddolphins. decorated withtwiningoctopus- andaneye-catching cup men, 98 men carrying fishby theirtails. men carrying offisher- vase depictingaring cylindrical teenth-century-BC Another unusual pieceisasix- BC. both from thelatesixthcentury (statue ofanidealizedyouth), andtheCroesus kouros folds, hairandtunic- carved beard, delicately Young with Warrior, include the Steleofa Aristion Augustus.Among other Roman Augustus.Among statue oftheRoman Emperor portrait bronze equestrian nary There isalsoanextraordi- fresh. Pan naked Aphrodite abouttorap from century thefirst AD ofa the latersculptures isastatue brow andunkempt hair. withfurrowed a philosopher, BCthebronze headof century andfrom thethird BC; tury Antikithira from cen- thefourth thebronze Ephebeof horse; too smallforhisgalloping delicate bronze figure seeming the Little Jockey of Artemission, Classical works include the Othermajor throw histrident. balanced ashestandspoisedto athleticbodyperfectly Poseidon, bronze Statueof tury-BC lection includesamid-fifth-cen- Contents The largecollectionof Early sculpture The The mostreproduced ofall ’ s knuckles forgettingtoo Classical sculpture Man Playing aLyre and anivory lyre with art containspre- art highlights Boar – most Places . ’ s Tusk col- side. an unfenceddrop ontheeast asthere though withchildren, of parts Athens.Take care here can enjoy fineviews over all the hill isaneasypath to bustle.There an hourortwo from thestreet oasis where you canescapefor the cityscapeisalittle-visited den break inthemonotony of bouzo is theplacetobuy agenuine tou Greek music. you your fancy handatplaying strolling visitors. overkeeping silentvigil the Greek War ofIndependence a lineofstatuesheroes ofthe with boulevard bisectsthepark, long paths.A and meandering gardens largeparkoftrees, fairly thePedh the centre of Athens, One ofthefew areas green in Pedh Ne Lying between thesuburbs of L Zonar Alexandra Restaurants Stadh the majorretail stores on Greek andnon-Greek CDsat While you canfind all thelatest Mavromih Action Records Shops mr eo,vrna etn in verandah seating decor, smart Sun. of theParthenon. centrepiece theoriginal Athena, copies ofthelostPheidias pieces ondisplay are various ó fos touStr á Á poli andEx A converted oldhousewith á ú í í 21 reos (Plain of Mars) isa (PlainofMars) reos o tou ou orPanepistim ki ’ o umt where you s low summit, á , t li 51 baglam 1 42 7.Closed 210 6420874. Á t reos é 210 3619924. fi (Str á á ha thissud- rhia, s or lao é fis Hill) í ú u this ou, to if ’ í s o PLACES The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli , - 99 í ki fi á é es, é ouzer , black- amidst sagan í va) á f e ( ouzer 210 36 14 038. 210 64 40 945. é A classic t t . í Moderate to mid- Mushroom Mushroom Entered from beside from Entered April. and meaty entr – li 121 li 152 fi. á á é ouzer s also summer seating in a s also summer seating in ’ vis 59. dhes é ó fos Str ó style establishment, serving rich mez with home-made down washed wine.Advance booking is recommended. range old taverna with great range old taverna bean pur butter Iy Lefka Mavromih Closed Sun. O Pinaleon Mavromih Closed Nov Exostrefis Exostrefis L Iy Gonia Arah the basketball court on Str the basketball Hill, this breezy meatballs, spicy sausages and among the delights octopus are at this eyed beans,eyed grilled and baked meat with barrelled retsina. There barrels. enclosed by huge garden the pines offers substantial portions a of tasty food and range of ouzo, as wine. as well Places O Í . 210 33 00 t ni wine, this dhes ki. Closed Sun. í é á ki 94 á 210 82 10 004. Closed mez t l Ben í tti and Ben does a good line in fish é vou 13 í Enjoy mid-range Egyptian Enjoy Very popular,Very mid-range ó GROUNDS OF THE POLYTEKHN Contents 185. Cnr Kol Featuring Santor Epistrofi Stin Ithaki and seafood ouzer Barba Yannis Emmanou Alexandria Mets Sun. summer and occasional summer music.Theaccordion imaginative, dishes inexpensive include auberginecroquettes, salad with walnuts,beetroot and meat in varioussauces. restaurant, serving a varied food, oven of home-style menu with barrelled wine and a atmosphere.relaxed summer In on the dine al fresco can you pedestrianized street. and Mediterranean specialities in setting reminiscent a restaurant Alexandria with palm of Old plants, ceiling fans and a pleasant, dine. to shaded garden 100

Rozalia musical tastes from the 1980s Valtetsíou 58 t210 33 02 933. Ever- onwards, but especially popular mid-range mezédhes- mainstream guitar-based rock. plus-grill taverna, with excellent The scene can be fast and chicken and highly palatable furious. barrelled wine.You order from the proffered tray as the waiters Recital thread their way through the Eressoú 64 & Themistokléous t210 38 PLACES throng. In summer you can dine 05 556. Opens 7pm. One of the in the garden opposite. oldest rock bars in the Exárhia Square area. Pumped up rock poli

á To Steki tis Xanthis blasts from the speakers to a Irínis Athinéas 5 t210 88 20 780. crowd of mainly rock-savvy Closed Sun. A delightful old students and head-bangers. mansion with a roof garden that offers fine views across to Stréfis Hill.The mid-range house rhia and Ne Clubs

á specialities include rabbit stew and schnitzel. Decadence Voulgaroktónou 69 & Poulherías t210 Yiandes 88 23 544. Opens 11pm. Popular Valtetsíou 44 t210 33 01 369. A with students, classic high-quality, moderate to underground rock reverberates expensive new restaurant until late, while you can also serving a range of dishes, from catch some independent rock cold cuts to stuffed mushrooms, and electronic pop, and some as well as meat and fish recipes live performances. from Asia Minor. Fournos Mavromiháli 168 t210 64 60 748. Bars Opens 7.30pm. Fournos means “oven” in Greek – it can get The Archeological Museum, Ex The Archeological After Dark Dhiodótou 31 & Ippokrátous t210 36 O PINALEON 06 460. Opens 9.30pm. A downtown youth hangout in happening Exárhia; the music runs from classic rock to present-day hits. Fairy Tale Kolétti 25 t210 33 01 763. Daily 10pm–3am. A classic city-style bar drawing an arty, largely lesbian crowd; guest DJs play a mixed Greek and non-Greek music selection.Also open Sunday afternoons for coffee and cake. L.A. Rock Themistokléous & Methónis 58 t210 38 44 024. Opens 9.30pm. A rock bar for all ages, encompassing

Contents Places PLACES The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli 101 6 (two E 210 64 24 t Aug. 5.75, and – E poli 6. gigs Live Lively, friendly á 210 64 37 416. a e í 210 64 46 512. t Sat. Crowded, long- tika sounds from a tika sounds from 7. – t é E 210 36 39 919. Closed 6 entry includes drink. 6 entry includes Aug. t li 139 Istor – E í á s no cover charge,s no cover but tous 181, Ne ’ Sat. No cover charge, but ou 130A á í – tti 32. é vron 29 á 967. & July Wed Closed established salon on the third established floor of a Neoclassical building, of all ages. attracting a crowd is served,Food including fruit appetizers. plates and mixed There drinks cost Taximi Is Sun & July Thurs reservation needed. Mo Better Kol on the fun bar Cramped but first floor of a Neoclassical building, with hip-hop, punk and indie rock. Parafono Asklip Small, congenial place featuring jazz bands. Greek Rebetik Ippokr reb Genuine in a large old good company house; drinks cost Enallax Mavromih tasty food is also served. venue hosting various folk-style venue acts; drinks are music from all over Greece. all over from music univer- popular with Extremely sity students,dance who jam the floor and aisles. Drinks mostly Thurs drinks minimum). 210 13 on. í t E Places Popular on 60 Modern and í a Exarh í 210 33 05 056. t Basement club 210 36 23 625. 210 38 43 836. 15 6. t Fans of electro and Fans of electro t ous 80, Plat – ous & Derven E é é late; closed Mon. late; closed – 13 19 ú ú tou 3

tika and regional folk ó é tika acts and other singer- é

Contents Opens 9am. 33 00 936. Opens 11pm. showcase for up-and-coming showcase reb songwriters. featuring local and lesser-known bands. rock foreign techno-pop gather at this for non- venue alternative sounds.Themainstream patrons tend to be neo-mods with sense. and music eclectic dress Midnight Reservations recommended. Reb Solomo Boemissa Dhidh To Baraki Tou Vassili Vassili Baraki Tou To

Solomo Live music An Club Entry from Wunderbar Themistokl Intriga Themistokl hot in this artyhot in joint, where feature and rock pop electronic VJs prominently. and DJs scene. complete the classic rock echo through this echo through classic rock building,Neoclassical as as well rock, and progressive black as attracting students as well serious barflies. entry includes first drink. entry includes 102 Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill If you have money to spend, Kolonáki, a favourite haunt of expatriates, is the place to do it, catering as it does to every Western taste from fast food to high fashion. It’s also from here that a funicular hauls you up to Lykavitós

PLACES Hill, where some of the best views of the city are to be had. Close by are a couple of fine museums: one devoted to Cycladic Art; the other, the Benáki, an assembly

s Hill of just about all things Greek, from Mycenaean artefacts ó to twentieth-century memorabilia. It was in this area that the fourth-century-BC foundations of Aristotle’s Lyceum – where he taught for thirteen years and to which Socrates was a frequent visitor – were recently unearthed during excavation work for a new Museum of ki & Lykavit á

1 (150m)

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TSAKALOF

SOLONOS S Kanari 5 Giorgos FOKYLIDHOU A R IS DORAS T IP KANARIBerto P O IRAKLITOU Eleftheriadis PLATIA KLEOMENOUSU Lucci DHEXAMENIS XANTHIPPOU DHINOKRATOUS U Fresh O G LY 9 K O N H Line O S R

MILIONI This 'n' AKADHIMIAS The Cigar AHEOU TA That S U 11 SKOUFA PEFS Friday MERLIN IPPO LO Gucci MARASLI U P PLATIA HAR 13 Market VASILISSIS SOFIAS I T SEKERI KOLONAKIOU 12 Oikos O S Galerie XENOKRATOUS Benáki (PLATIA FILIKÍS Zamboulaki Museum ETERÍAS) 14 15 Petridis KAPSALI Carouzos PATRIARHOU IOAKIM IRODHOTOU LOUKIANOU Christos British Evzones To Paleopoleion Kostarelos KOUMBARICouncil Barracks ALOPEKIS Beauty Enny di 16 Works Monaco KARNEADHOU ALOPEKIS N. DHOUKA M OUROUZI Goulandhrís Museum LYKIOU VASILISSIS SOFIAS MARASLI PLATIA Hospital P. MELA PLOUTARHOU IPS ILA LE N D O IRODHOUO ATTIKOU M U FO Evangelismos R Byzantine & O S STISIHOROU V Christian M Evangelismos A War S Museum S RIGILLIS Presidential ILE Museum O Palace S Y RIZARI EO R Y Athens National Gallery of Art & IO U Conservatory Aléxandros Soútzos Museum B

Contents Places 103 Modern Art, though these remain unvisitable. If you’ve the stamina, the other museums in the area – the War Museum, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, the National Art Gallery and the Aléxandros Soútzos

Museum – may appeal but are mainly for enthusiasts. At PLACES night the area is at its livliest, with plenty of upmarket bars, cafés and restaurants. Further east, the more modern areas of Ilísia and Ambelókipi, have more good bars and music clubs, as well as the Mégaro Mousikís, Kolon Athens’ princupal concert hall. á

Kolonáki city’s chicest shopping district. ki & Lykavit Bordered by grand Neoclassical Although not as architecturally palaces at the bottom of inspiring as some of the more Lykavitós and the residential traditional neighbourhoods of areas higher up the hill, the Athens, it enjoys a superb site centre of Kolonáki forms the on the southwest-facing slopes ó s Hill

ARMATOLON KE KLEFTON SARANDAPIHOU ARYIROUPOLEOS

Y K E R O O S PALINGENESIASD M H A IM E T O O U LO U

Lykavitós Theatre La Joya(150m)

NIKOTSARA

DHASKALOYIANNI KONIARI Lykavitós Hill OROLOGA

HO Ï DHA K O S T Y D’ ISTRIA Y IN E IS O U

A 10 YEROSTATHIL MELAR. P Ï A P FILIMONOS KONIARI PA MIHA U AYI ARISTODHIMOU KLEOMENOUS O S ATHINEON EFIVON O N DHORYLEOUPAN PLATIA IROFILOU LAHITOS FILIM DANTE DHINOKRATOUS KYRIAKO DHIMOHAROUS

OU YELONOS DHINOKRATOUS S Yennádhion O U ID LACHITOS H IA Library S POLEM Elefteriou British Navy Venizelou Archeological Museum Kriti (700m) APIRON17 S O School U I D H EVZONON AN I A S

EVZO MONIS PETRAKI N Alsos O N Mégaro Eleftherias Mousikís Hospital IASIOU VLADHIMIROU BENSI EATING & DRINKING

Agrio Rodho 3 47 MaritsaL ’s 7 RAVINE A AlekosMegaro Island 5 FourtounaSEM M 17 Moussikis P Baila 14 Ikio S 16 IPSILANDOU M Alexándras ITELO A IS PETRAKI Café Alu 4 To Kioupi K 11

Hospital O Palenque (600m) U IOANNOU YENNADIOU ON AIGINITOUCentral 12 Mommy 1 U M Cilentio 2 Rodhia 10 City Aretaíeion15 Rooms 8 0 200 m DhimokritosHospital6 Sale & Pepe 9 Filippou 13 Ta Skalakia 18 P O N D O U

Memphis (100m) Hi-Hat Café (400m) Tsai stin Sahara (50m) 18 (200m) Contents Places Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES jasmine. planted with oleanderand ending inlongflights ofsteps, withsteepstreets very enjoyable, highest tiers ofKolonhighest tiers Akadhim ó Voukourest pedestrianized promising area alongwith the the most comprise the northwest, called Plat Gardens. the Acropolis andNational of Lykavit 104 Skouf Patri style. the wholegamut ofconsumer the neighbourhoodwillgarner andahalf-hourstroll around gear, anddesigner onfashion firmly upmarket shopstheaccentis and slightlycheaper. Mili on pedestrianized Tsak caf assorted heeled residents ground ofKolon Kolonak always toas referred Patri are numerous caf andthere andmagazines, papers kiosks withstocksofforeign Dotted around thearea are trees onthe southwest side. “ little column o lc,justbelow tou block, Contents o oerno toln,the For more randomstrolling, The heart ofitallisofficially The heart In thedozensofsmall, FUNICULAR ó á ni and Valaor á rhou Ioak with itscross-streets to , í í as. á ó ou í rhou Ioak a Filik í ,lookingoutover s, é ou s andpubsnearby aftertheancient , ” – Valaor í that hidesinthe m – á é í s Eter althoughthe ki s on í tou are better – ’ s well- í stamping Plat m and í á tou ki canbe á í lof, as but is – Places í a Kriez terrace facing inland. facing terrace it alsooperatesacaf the facing Acropolis andthesea; commands theadjacentterrace An expensive restaurant built inthenineteenthcentury. Á whitewashed chapelof small, opposite the Acropolis. a smallcaf although you cantake abreak at more exposedandstrenuous, thegoinggets higherup, trees; pine throughrunning shady ofthepathiseasyenough, part woods lower tothetop.The Dhexamen Lycabettus Hotel across from the by thebusthe hillbegins stop pathup theprincipal energetic, every 30min; otherwise 10min insummer, 10.30am Thurs Fri Kolon of Plo Lykavit Lykavit take a basin. acrossstretch the right Attica lightsof shimmering Athens the dark, Peloponnese.After can seethemountainsof onwards fromparticularly lateafternoon but views atany time, On thesummitstands To gettothesummityou can yios Ye KOLON – Sun 8.45am ú á funicular Á ki square (Mon ó tarhou, not far from notfar tarhou, ó KI STREET s Hill offers tremendous s Hilloffers – s Hill ó onaclearday you é ryios ryios í hlwy right halfway, s andwindsthrough e – ) For themore 4). St George above Plat – 24a,every 12.40am, rmtetop from the (St George), 12.40am, é onthe – Wed & í a PLACES Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill 105 los, é rios Veniz items are items exhibited chronologically and clearly labelled; ancient on the finds are floors and lower the modern artefactsGreek on the upper floors.Among the more items unusual é KI MUSEUM Á The museum shop by the shop by The museum THE BEN are collections of early Greek are Gospels, and liturgical vestments ornamentschurch by rescued Asia Minor from refugees Greek in 1922.There dazzling also are embroideries and body ornaments, and some unique historical letters and photographs on the Cretan statesman Elefth Asia Minor and the Cretan Revolution. entrance stocks a fine selection folk art,of books on Greek CDs and some of of regionalmusic the best posters in and postcards the city. s ’ 210 Places as í t ne ( è l s Theatre é ó 2pm) with midnight, Sun – – ssis Sof Wed & Fri Wed kis, a wealthy í á – ki Museum á 6, temporary exhibitions l Ben í ki Museum RYIOS CHAPEL e Ó á ). by come down If you as. Here, too, is the í dhion Library ri 1,Vasil cnr á á 8pm, Sat 9am 5pm, Thurs 9am 3pm. – The often overlooked but The often overlooked – – YIOS YE Á www.benaki.gr. Mon, Wed, Sat & Fri More than twenty thousand than twenty More The road up the hill goes to The road 3. Contents see p.35 72 10 536, Mon 9am its large collection of books on Greece and an unpublicized Lear full of Edward drawer Stathatos collection. the southeast slopes, emerge you that little enclave near the lovely Americanthe British and have schools archeological on for themselves created Souidh Yenn watercolour sketches;watercolour good- pricedquality and reasonably on sale. are reproductions The Ben Koumb fascinating Ben should not be missed. Housing a collection donated to private the state in the 1950s by Emmanou cotton merchant, exhibits range Mycenaean jewellery, from costumes and folk Greek artefacts to memorabilia from of War and the Greek Byron Independence, as as well the H from jewellery the open-air Lykavit ( w 9am 9am e Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES etr C the BC, century items datefrom thefifth Many ofthemore exquisite cloaks conversing ontheother. andthree menin on oneface the starexhibitdepictsrevellers on oppositesides showing two unrelated scenes painted devoted toacollectionof Goddess. the Earth orrepresentations of attendants, ofservants and sacrifice substitutesforthe deceased, were guidesforthe spirit-world arw,it barrows, frequent discovery ingrave- given their unknown but, is exactpurpose Picasso.Their suchasMoore and artists influential ontwentieth-century heads whosestylewas female) withslopingwedge (mostly figurines folded-arm are distinctive marble bowls and Museum. National Archeological sectionsofthe corresponding thanfrom the periods more aboutthese far may learn you infact, Hellenistic pottery; and Classical of Archaic, plusaselection around 700BC, from ofMycenaeto thefall millennium BC)andtheperiod Minoan Bronze Age (second pre- (third millennium BC), from theCycladiccivilization collection thatincludesobjects extremely well presented Ancient Greek is an Art Museum ofCycladicand private Goulandhr The small, 10am Thurs&Fri Wed, Mon, -m.gr. Neof Goulandhr 106 there Classical Athens. Greek Art Cycladic and Ancient Contents Much ofthetopflooris From the To round offtheexperience, k tou Dhouk – ’ odso,snackbar s agood shop, 4pm, Sat 10am Sat 4pm, Classical ’ s possible thatthey í Cycladic period s Museumof á 4 w “ www.cycladic golden age – – ol,often bowls, forexample, 3pm. e Places 3.50. ” í s of temporary exhibitions. temporary restored asanextension for Stathatos House leads tothenineteenth-century which acovered passageway from and shadedcourtyard, Venetians inGreece. owing tothepresence ofthe Renaissance Italian influence, show anincreasing post- towards thesixteenthcentury which development ofstyles, are toldlittleofthe andyou sometimes Greek-only, Labellingis interest. some prior restored sidegalleries housedintwo exclusively icons, To enjoy theexhibits fund the War ofIndependence. Napoleonic generalwhohelped philhellene andwidow ofa extravagantly French eccentric an Duchesse dePlaisance, that oncebelongedtothe a peacefulvillawithcourtyard Museumisitssetting: Christian feature oftheByzantineand Museum Byzantine andChristian Vasil 8.30am CYCLADIC MUSEUM í ssis Sof – 3pm. í s2.Tues as 22. e 4. Perhaps thebest magnificently , – Sun – – requires almost PLACES Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill ki 107 s á ’ s ’ Well- ka, Kolon ú KI Á Favoured by Favoured tou Do 210 32 38 759. k s and women ’ t 210 36 03 775. s best museums,s best and ’ t cases. Greek designers Greek such as é – li & Neof rou 41 á á SHOPPING IN KOLON lonos 8 210 72 25 511. ó Madonna and other celebrities, cosmetics Works the Beauty chain stocks all the classic brands. Angelos Frentzos and Sofia Angelos Frentzos heavily. feature Kokosalaki Berto Lucci S Bettina Pind Reliable, chic and classy clothes store Shops Beauty Works Kaps t most of them major loans from them major most of the world definitely worth are these catching. priced men clothes and accessories at one of Athens. around a chain of stores Shoes and classy leatherwear also,feature men including attach s The ’ ). 6. kas Places í e Sat – ri 2. á xandros é 2pm. see p.61 – tzos Museum kos-Gh The only á ú nou 50.Wed Mon & ka ( í á 9pm, Thurs 2pm, Sun – – endowment of the endowment ” ssis Sofias & Riz ssis Sofias 2pm. Free. í – 74 junta,War the – Sat 9am os Konstand 3pm & 6 3pm, Sun 10am s core collection of Greek s core ’ zsTdy the whole tzos.Today, é – – – xandros So ú é Although a slightly A recent refurbishment has refurbishment A recent Contents cultural 9am National Art GalleryArt and National Al Vasil 9.30am Cnr Vasil War Museum War Tues state art, the sixteenth century from day,to the present is combined Art Gallery with in the National collection of the the private Al Athenian lawyer So 9500 shebang holds around paintings, and sculptures as miniatures engravings as well and furniture. disappointing experience, it worth checking out the work of checking out the work worth HatzikyriNikos (Ghika), a modern painter well on the ground floor, represented as the small group of as well on the mezzanine by canvases Theofilos, artistthe primitive can be of whose work more seen at the Museum of Greek Art in Pl Folk created a much more prominent more a much created for temporaryarea exhibitions, “ 9am 1967 Museum becomes predictably Museum becomes militaristic and right-wing as it such modernapproaches events Asia Minor campaign,as the the in forces and Greek war civil Korea. Earlier times, however, more with a covered are scholarly concern, the showing from changes in warfare to the Mycenae through Turks.Among an Byzantines and array is a fascinating of models series and on the acropolises fortresses of Greece, both Classical and medieval. Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES monastery tables toembroidery.monastery fluffy shawls are agoodbuy. fine collection. witha but stylishtieboutique, you this placeperfectforbrowsing; make art andmodern furniture H Galerie Zamboulaki saffron. thyme and herbs suchasnettle, made soapsfrom Greek sellinghand- Cosmetics store, Skouf Fresh Line Furstenberg. Luella andDianavon Jones, Cesare Fabbri,Adam labelsinclude high-fashion the garde clothingshop; avant- Occasionally eccentric, Irod Enny diMonaco Valaor Cravaterie Nazionali K The Cigar Ch Christos Kostarelos 873. Patri Carouzos 108 shoes andaccessories. good-quality and women, clothesforbothmen formal rangeofclassicand great witha high-quality clothing, upmarket boutiquesselling Greek design gives anew edgetonative Kostarelos Christos in Athens, of themosttalenteddesigners ml,humidifiedroom. small, packed intoa and Nicaragua, Honduras fromcigars Havana, á á Contents nari 21 ritos 26 á ó ritos 44 ’ á tou 18 ll findeverything from used Part ofachain á rhou Ioak í tou 5 10 t t t t 210 3603725. t t 210 3644015. 210 7252488. 210 7217215. 210 3620996. 210 7228261. í m 14 – thesuperb t 210 7245 Fine Old Places Small One top-line shoemakers. Parallele andother Camper, ranges from CharlesJourdan, salon onthesecondfloor. withahairdressing progressive, area.Very chic andaesthetically thesamespaciousdisplay sharing cosmeticsandCDs accessories, shoes, withclothes, bag here, precious stones. goldand handcrafted silver, exquisite featuring designers, fromcollection garnered Greek jewellery store withalarge bags andaccessories. ofKolonheart scatter around your lounge, orjustitemsto Interesting gifts Irod Oikos K Kanari 5 02 280. Tsak Centre, Melathron Gucci Pind Giorgos Eleftheriadis you Inaddition shoes inthecountry. some ofthebestGreek-made Long-established andproducing Plate Petridis Skouf Petai Irodh To Paleopoleion porcelain andperfumebottles. including and antiques, old French andGreek furniture essentially Greek instyle. garde Stylesare avant- Greek designer. littleboutiquefromgreat afine change from tourist trinkets. change from tourist objets large collectionofgadgetsand á nari 5 ó á ’ tou 26 í ó ll findmen a Kolonak rou 38 á tou 18 makes forarefreshing 30 – A Gucciboutiqueinthe European incutbut t t 210 3392597. t t 210 3624315. t 210 7231350. 210 3615278. í 210 7243922. ou 7 á ’ i withclothes, ki, s andwomen t 210 7238434. á lof 5 A mixed A t A 210 36 Fine – the ’ s PLACES Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill – 109 dhes á dolm 210 36 33 210 36 t restaurant in a restaurant – 210 36 13 588. lonos 210 72 16 390. Closed ó t t This conservative Occasionally snooty tou 23 í tous 19 rou 3 & S rou 3 & á á Servingmodern with lamb. Mediterranean fusion and Greek dishes, and fairly this upmarket costly eateryold restored in an building combines charm with rusticity. of the house Many organic. ingredients are good-value but beautiful Neoclassical building with high ceilings and classy interior decor.The menu vast dishes includes well-prepared sauce, such as rabbit in lemon fish soup, and cabbage Filippou Xenokr Cilentio Mantz Dhimokritos Dhimokr Closed Sun. Sat eve & Sun. 144. Places A touch 210 36 36 337. 210 72 45 938. t t OU 17 Í – ou s theatre meal. s theatre í ó A good place for a 210 72 93 790. 210 72 t hou 15 That í ’ A KOLONAK Í n

‘ a, Kolonak í ndi 7

é PLAT Contents Plate and fun- This fairly upmarket oriented lounge-bar-cum- on does a funky twist restaurant modern fare, Greek serving a and good selection of salads decent sushi. Central

Sarandap Restaurants Agrio Rodho Closed Sun. Lev This of the Orient,of the ethnic with fashions, kaftans, sandals and shawls. Food is homely as opposed to is homely as opposed Food haute cuisine, is also plus game on the menu. post-Lykavit Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES fricassee andoctopusinmustard fricassee lamb beef inlemonsauce, Favourites include loyal regulars. Macedonia andtheislands. known vintagesfrom wine listwhichincludeslesser- andadecent also abuffet range, but that doesn hole inyour wallet. salads thatdon range ofoven-baked dishesand unfussy taverna withawide “ the restaurant name(meaning Arist Rodhia Plat To Kioupi Plo Ikio boat inthefront area.There dishes are displayed inawooden steamed crayfish isaspeciality; or grilled prepared fish.The well- moderately expensive, seafood inKolon The bestplaceforquality Pol An. Fourtouna mussels. spaghetti andgrilled lobster crayfish fritters, monkfish, Specializesinseafoodlike seating. andpavementposh interior Fairly expensive restaurant witha Voukourest 47 Maritsa stews andcasseroles. andincludesgoodgrills, priced, The foodisfresh andmoderately isliveliest atlunch. and residents, ofofficeworkers favourite taverna, 110 hasn cosy oldhouse Closed Sun. moussak standard Greek suchas fare taverna withgood, subterranean Sun. homely Contents ú í tarhou 15 a Kolonak í ppou 44 ’ Popular taverna setina t changedintwenty years, é mou 22 á s ” í ou 47 ugss Ikioisan ) suggests, and A budget t í ’ ou 4 t s 1 22 8.Closed 210 7229883. t 210 7259216. ’ t dolm ’ t botheritsmany t dentahuge 210 7221282. – 210 3630132. t themenu á i serving ki, 210 3614033. á dhes . Places As ’ s easy onyour pocket. gofairly whiletheprices sauce, with thelocaltrendies. even cigarbar.Very popular the flanksofLykavit of form cometotownItalian fare inthe more colourfulbartenders. isoneof Athens music;Alekos gay barplaying rock andpop easy-goingbasement established, gather onthepavement. low-key, andpatrons often themusic is andcoffees; drinks with hangout thanafull-onbar, Sun. caf sushibar, delicatessen, is abitofeverything: Kolon newcomer tothe mid-priced discreet music. takes precedence over thelight, where sippingdrinks out here, behind theHolidayInn Eyin Ta Skalakia Arist Sale &Pepe Kriez Rooms 9pm. H City 12.30am. H Baila Tsak Alekos Island Bars 290. dishes andattractsalively crowd. but stillhasmany classictaverna or unpretentious asitoncewas, wine listismostimpressive. menu issimpleyet andthe hearty á á ritos 43 ritos 43 í í o 2 Il tou 32, ppou 34 á ó Ta Skalakia Good-quality but fairly pricey Good-quality but fairly Artists andwannabesArtists hang o 2 Daily11pm lof 42. tou 11 á ki culinary scene, ki culinary Sale &Pepe More ofasocializing t t t 1 22 1.Opens 210 7228910. Opens 210 7233019. t í i,offsomestairs sia, 1 23 0.Closed 210 7234102. 210 3615628. is notascheap highupon , t ó – s Hill.The 210 7229 3am. é Rooms Long- A and ’ PLACES Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill 111 , á Live 210 77 t Successful 210 64 40 kipi ó t Live music Live a Ay. Thom í kipi sia. Admission and ó í Local venue that Local venue Spectacular outdoor 210 64 87 748. 8, Ambel 12. t á s Theatre e ó s popular with celebrity ’ as 18, Il s Hill. ton 41, Plat í kipi ó á ó ha 43, Ambel ou Thom í ó 030. 2.30am. Open until first drink Ambel 58 258. Mon. Closed Lykavit Lykavit Palenque Farand Tsai stin Sahara Laodhik Kriti Ay La Joya Ts great with a atmosphere, venue beautiful decor and adventurous food; it American South by Latin music groups, as salsa parties, as well and dance flamenco music lessons. venue used mainly for music venue concerts to October. May from venue specializing in Cretan specializing venue music. often hosts enjoyable Greek folk Greek often hosts enjoyable nights. parties.The is rock, music jazz and Latin. sia í Places s better ’ ki vou 1, Il á ó 210 36 11 116. t 210 72 18 171. t Upbeat venue, rou 58 é í sia, behind Hilton Hotel. 210 36 19 682. Opens í t mi 28 and Krous One of Kolon ú

& Om Alu á ri 5, Il n 4 í é ó

Contents 10pm. hosting guest DJs playing mainly DJs playing hosting guest modern music. meeting places, is a trendy this watering hole for thirty- soulful somethings where house is pumped out by DJs. resident Crowded, energetic bar that music, mainly blues plays but Latin and jazz. also features Hi-Hat Caf Dhrago Live music nr Hilton Hotel Delf Mommy Vend Roomy, comfy club/bar with and a good sound a garden system pumping out rock and dance. Memphis Skouf Caf Clubs Opens 10pm. 112 Smndagma and around All roads lead to Shndagma – you’ll almost inevitably find yourself here sooner or later for the metro and bus connections. Platía Syndágmatos (Constitution Square), to give it its full name, lies roughly midway between the

PLACES Acropolis and Lykavitós Hill. With the Greek Parliament building (the Voulí) on its uphill side, and banks, offices and embassies clustered around, it’s the heart of Athens politically as well as geographically. The square’s name derives from the fact that Greece’s first constitution was proclaimed (reluctantly under popular pressure) by King Otho from the palace balcony in 1843. It’s still the principal venue for mass demonstrations, and in the run-up to elections the major political parties stage their final campaign rallies here. Vital hub as it is, ndagma and around d however, the traffic and the crush mean it’s not an S attractive place to hang around. Escape comes in the form of the National Gardens, a welcome area of green- ery stretching out south from the parliament building and offering a traffic-free route down past the Záppio to Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. In other directions the prime shopping territory of Odhós Ermoú heads west towards Monastiráki, with Pláka and the Acropolis to the southwest; Stadhíou and Panepistimíou head northwest towards Omónia; while to the north and east lies Kolonáki and the embassy quarter. Hotel Grande Bretagne exception of the Voulí, the vast Vasiléos Yeoryíou 1 t210 33 30 000, Hotel Grande Bretagne – wgrandebretagne.gr. With the Athens’ grandest – is just about

PARLIAMENT BUILDING

Contents Places 113 the only building on Sandagma centre of Greek political to have survived postwar intrigue: in one notorious development. Past the impressive episode,Winston Churchill facade and uniformed doormen, narrowly avoided being blown

the interior is magnificently up here on Christmas Day PLACES opulent, as befits a grand hotel 1944, when saboteurs from the established in the late Communist-led ELAS resistance nineteenth century – it’s worth movement placed a huge taking a look inside, or having a explosive charge in the drains. drink at one of the bars.There’s According to whom you S d a rooftop pool, bar and believe, the bomb was either ndagma and around restaurant, all with great views discovered in time by a kitchen across the city. employee, or removed by ELAS The hotel has long been at the themselves when they realized

National SOLONOS SKOUFA STADHIOU M Historical ILIONI Museum KANARI KRIEZOTOU Hotel Grande IAS VOUKOURESTIOU VOULIS S < NDAGMA Bretagne PERIKLEOUS M ERLIN Benáki ZALOKOSTA VASSILEOS YEORYIOU AKADHIM M Syndagma SEKERI Museum VASILISSIS SOFIAS 1 ERMOU Syndagma Tomb of the M Unknown PLATIA Soldier Evzones SYNDAGMATOS Voulí Barracks MITROPOLEOS Syndagma M (Parliament Building) OTHONOS APOLLONOS Syndagma M

SKOUFOU

XENOFONDOS

NIKIS

VOULIS S

FILELLINON A Botanical i I Russian Church L National Museum A of St Nicodemus Y. NIKIS S M KO O Gardens AHOU U A D LAM R H I S RO Jewish I Presidential U S Museum S Palace INEON I ATH L DH I KY Greek Folk Art S Museum A V Frissiras PETA Anglican S Church O 2 Museum R T O S F DHEDHALOU A Záppio

N O IRODHOU ATTIKOU G A E PLÁ KA RI L N 3

PITTAKOU L E O Entrance F O Záppio R O Hadrian's Arch S Gardens VA S I L I S PLATIA S I S O STADHIOU L G A S Panatheniac Temple of Stadium Olympian Zeus EATING & DRINKING Aigli Restaurant Bar 3 0 150 m Everest 1 Oasis 2

Contents Places Sdndagma and around PLACES refreshing acres inthecityare mountain costume a prettified version of traditional kiltandwoolly leggings caps, stepping goose- Infront ofit, in 1842. capital in Athens andmoved in whoestablished his Otho, theBavarian King monarch, palace forGreece itwas built astheroyal structure, and-white Neoclassical ochre- vast, uphill (east)side.A over Plat theVoul Parliament, of camerashutters. National Gardens totherhythm atthebackof their barracks paradefrom thetombto corps afullbandandtheentire 11am, justbefore OnSundays, Soldier. of the Tomb oftheUnknown their guard at intervals infront Entrances on Amal The NationalGardens Plat The Voul potential victims. that Churchill was oneoftheir 114 and Ir public. sunrise Contents THE NATIONAL GARDENS í a Synd ó dhou Attiko – The Greek National ust Free. sunset. í evz á í a Synd mts Notopentothe gmatos. ó nes ú í s Vasil as, Daily . á in tasselled gmatos from its ’ The most s first – í presides , change í ssis Sof Places í as, – the evz where more exile in1967, royal residence untilConstantine botanical museum elegant littlepavilion nearby isa on theZ and there rabbitsanddomesticcats, chickens, exoticfowl, contains ostriches, you started. round incircles backtowhere signs thatseemtotake you with rampantundergrowth and of anairbenignneglecthere, la-u,there clear-out, Despite amajorpre-Olympics oftheglobe. remote corners from ofotherroyalgifts houses, oftenthe fetching rare plants, navy initsearlydays was the maindutyoftiny Greek supposedly Amalia inthe1840s; apetproject ofQueen gardens, theprivate palace originally gardens werefor apicnic.The eti umr It heat insummer. provide palpable relief from the benchesandduckponds shade, whose tangleoftrees, luxuriant much aflower garden asa the NationalGardens On the far sideofthegardens is On thefar A small ó Presidential Palace nes stand on sentry duty.stand onsentry á ’ s achildren zoo posd.Occupying an ppio side. (signed ’ s stillsomething ’ s a great spot s agreat ’ . s playground Irattikou – notso the , ) ’ s PLACES Sdndagma and around t ’ . 115 ” , and on ” s ancient ’ This is Athens,This is the “ This is the City of “ S ARCH ’ ppio area, and over á HADRIAN mark the edge of the Classical city and the beginning of his own. side its frieze On the west is inscribed ancient city of Theseus ancient city of the other Theseus Hadrian and not of so little that With remaining around it, around remaining this doesn immediate sense,make you but can look up, westwards, to the and in the other Acropolis see the columns of the direction great temple completed by Hadrian. Roman more Many thought to lie under are remains the Z the old Olympic towards Stadium. s ’ Places s but it but ó – ppio. Popular á re more open, more re and ’ On the southern side s Arch ’ s Arch stands in Arch s arrives of centre in the ’ PPIO ppio ú Á á ppio itself, an imposing THE Z á The arch, tall, eighteen metres Contents Syngro Hadrian splendid isolation on what feels corners one of the busiest like in Athens, where Odh town.With the traffic roaring by, you this is not somewhere to linger tempted are Hadrian Open 24hr. The Z of the National Gardens are the are of the National Gardens graceful, crescent-shaped grounds of the Z definitely worth a look on your definitely worth of Olympian Temple to the way Zeus. to the emperor by erected was with evening and weekend with evening strollers, they formallymore laid out.The Z Neoclassical edifice originally as an exhibition hall,built is not open to the public.Although it has no permanent function, the on has taken building such as the prestigious roles headquarters for both the Greek of the European presidency Union and for the people who ran the 2004 Olympic bid. Sdndagma and around PLACES impressive Romanbath excavated remains includingan are various site entrance, by the of thetempleenclosure, litter theground.To thenorth whichfellin1852, another, massive of columndrums thoughthe remain erect, pillars to dojusticethegod Livy ancient world the largesttemplesin Oneof views ofthe Acropolis. withexcellent dusty clearing – also known astheOlympieion Temple ofOlympianZeus ticket. 8.30am April Entrance on Vasil The Temple ofOlympianZeus 116 the temple Just fifteenof since beenlost. althoughbothhave himself, an equallymonumental oneof statueofZeusand an enormous marked byHadrian contributing anoccasionthat in 131 AD, Itwas finallydedicated Hadrian. hundred years laterunder completed almostseven but only BC, sixth century tyrant Peisistratos asearlythe wasconstruction begun by the standinthemiddleofahuge, Contents TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS – Sept 8am “ The colossal pillars ofthe The colossalpillars the onlytempleonearth – 3pm. ’ s original 104marble s original E – ,orjoint Acropolis 2, 7pm; Oct í – ssis according to Ó gs Daily: lgas. – March ”– Places its – been revealed. much earlierbuildings have public) where bothRomanand excavation (notopentothe overlooks afutherarea of south sideoftheenclosure the wall oftheClassicalcity.The complex andagateway from mez ouzoand icecream, offering avenue isanunexpectedhaven, This caf opposite cnrof Amal West Gardens, sideofNational Oasis Ermo Everest Caf Pricey, smart restaurant witha smart Pricey, Z Aigli RestaurantBar Restaurants to theNationalGardens. prefer tocollect apicnictotake you may While you caneatin, sandwich chainisalways busy. thisbranchofthe upstairs, hr. á ppio Gardens With an Easy Internet Caf With anEasyInternet é ú dhes 2 Plat 2, é é s justoffthemain in theshade. í a Sind t 210 3369363. influences. and Italian with French means Greek which here Mediterranean food is diplomats.The politicians and the hauntof setting, fabulous á í as andFilell mts Daily24 gmatos. “ modern í non. é ” , 117 Mets, Pangráti and

Koukáki PLACES For a taste of old Athens, head along to Mets, a steep hillside area with almost-intact streets of pre-World War

II houses. With their tiled roofs, shuttered windows and Mets, Pangr courtyards with spiral metal staircases and potted plants, they offer an intimate glimpse at the more traditional side of the city, and it’s here, around Márkou Mousoúrou and Arhimídhous, that you’ll find the city’s

most authentic tavernas and bars. The residential dis- á trict of Pangráti, too, has a wealth of small, homely tav- ti and Kouk ernas and mezhedopoleía: Platía Plastíra, Platía Varnáva and Platía Pangratíou are the focal points, the first with a large, old-fashioned kafeníon where you can sit for hours on a leafy terrace for the price of a coffee. á

Several other fine tavernas lie tucked away on and ki around Platía Varnáva and nearby Odhós Arhimídhous: the latter also holds an impressive street market every Friday. More places to eat lie down towards Leofóros Vasiléos Konstandínou; while you’re there it’s worth taking a look at nearby Odhós Ágras, an attractive stepped street where Nobel-laureate poet George Seferis once lived. Pangráti is also where you’ll can hop on to a #2, #4 or #12 find the original Olympic trolley to Platía Plastíra, or use Stadium, which occupies an the very handy Akrópoli or impressive spot next to Syngroú-Fix metro stations. Ardhittós Hill, as well as Athens’ First Cemetery, where lie the much-visited tombs of many of the country’s luminaries. Koukáki, huddled close around the southern slopes of Filopáppou Hill, is another district that sees few tourists yet lies in close proximity to the slopes of the Acropolis and the theatres of Dionysos and Herodes Atticus.Tranquil and shady, with tree-lined streets, it’s another place that’s great for eating and drinking. You can reach all three areas on foot from the centre, but if you don’t fancy the stroll you PANGRÁ TI Contents Places 118 PLACES ki á ti and Kouk á

THE OLD OLYMPIC STADIUM

Centre of Jewish EATING & DRINKING Folk Art & Museum Mets, Pangr Açai 5 Koukles 16 Tradition Aenaon 10 Mayemenos Avlos 2 Children’s Apanemia 9 Pinelopi kai Mnistires 11 Museum Greek Edodi 14 Psistaria Ambrosia 12 Frissiras Folk Art The Guys 6 Spondi 15 Monument Museum Museum Kalimarmaron 4 O Themistoklis 1 of Lysikratos PLÁ KA To Kalyvi 13 Vyrinis 8 Karavitis 3 Xanthippi 7 PLATIA LYSIKRATOUS Entrance Theatre of DHIONYSIOU AREOPAYITOU Dionysos Hadrian's Arch Entrance MAKRIYIÁ NNI GARIVALDI KALLISPERI Akropoli Temple of ROVERTOU GALLI M

MAKRI Olympian Zeus Acropolis M FRATTI PARTHENONOS Museum Akropoli

EREKHTHIOU P AT R site H O ANA MAKRIYIANNI PY M HATZIKHRISTOU DHIAK IS 6 S Monument LE A IO R MITSEON U A O O U of Filopappus LIO N T DHRAKOU O V U O U U S TZAMI KARATASI LO R I U V IOSIF TON ROGON O O A I MARKOU MPOTSARI P H R O N N K I I

O A R S R I K L

VEIKOU IT L K U E M L O

O 9 I V K ZAHARITSA H O O M D A U

U P R E F O T K V LA FALIROU M A

DHRAKOU O KO E H I ZA I KAREA NSyngrou- R A O T S Diavolos TZAMI KARATASII Fix S R KARER A Musiki Spiti INGLESI I ANASTASIOUH ZINNI A N ORLOF A M S M Z U 12 S I V O O EIK V M Syngrou-Fix PLATIA U KYNOSARGOUS PLATIA L I 14 LEFKAS A FALIROU O S FXID G ODHYSSEOS ANDROUTSOU Z E KOUKÁ KI DHESPOSIRAKLEOUS SEHOU M PLATIA E KOUKAKIOU ZA N OLYMBIOU N LEOFOROS ANDHREA SYNGROU I PYTHEOU S M THEONOSDHINOSTRATOU E ME O K R EVDHOXOU E A A T Ï S E DANI O U 16 U O AM A FOTOMARA I R N L D A VROSIOU FRANTZI F KALLIRROISKHRISTIANOUPOLEOSIS T H E THEODOROU YEOMETROU Stravos N THEODHORITOU VRESTHENIS O tou Notou U S ANGYLIS

Contents Places 119

The Panathenaic Stadium Herodes Atticus later undertook The old Olympic Stadium (aka to refurbish the 60,000 seats of the Panathenaic Stadium or the the entire stadium; the white Kalimármaro) is a nineteenth- marble from these was to

century reconstruction on provide the city with a PLACES Roman foundations, slotted convenient quarry through the tightly in between the pine- ensuing seventeen centuries. covered spurs of Ardhittós Hill. The stadium’s reconstruction This site was originally marked dates from the modern revival out in the fourth century BC of the Olympic Games in 1896 Mets, Pangr for the Panathenaic athletic and bears witness to the efforts contests, but in Roman times, as of another wealthy benefactor, a grand gesture to mark the the Alexandrian Greek Yiorgos reign of the emperor Hadrian, it Averoff. Its appearance – pristine was adapted for an orgy of blood whiteness and meticulous á

sports, with thousands of wild symmetry – must be very much ti and Kouk beasts baited and slaughtered in as it was when first restored and the arena.The Roman senator reopened under Herodes á

National ki Gardens

PLATIA RIZA 1 S SKOUZE O

N (20m) O IR RI 2 A M Y N D A H

ARHELAOU U Záppio 3 O PAFSANIOU N IA R R A

ARKTINOU IRODHOU ATTIKOU Záppio DHIOFANDOU LEOFOROS VASILEOSPANGR KONSTANDINOUÁ TI LE Gardens FEDHROU OF 4 ERATOSTHENOUS OR OS V AGIOU IRONOS AS PLATIA SPYRIDONOS ILIS SIS STADHIOU AGRAS OLG Alsos AS Pangratiou

IPPODHAMOU AGRAS

NIKOSTHENOUS Panathenaic PLATIA 5 Ardhittós Stadium PLASTIRA EVTYHIDHOU SPYROU MERKOURI

MARKOU MOUSOUROU Hill 7 EFFRANOROS ARDHITTOUM. PIGA FOTIADHOU METS ARISTONIKOU EMPEDOKLEOUS STRATIGOU DOMBOLI 8 ANAPAFSEOS PROKLOU

ARHIMIDHOUS KRISILA VRYAXIDHOS

PA 11 RMENIDH O U 10 MELISSOU EVYENIOU VOULGAREOS DHIKEARHOU PLATIA VARNAVA PLATIA TRIVONIANOU PROFITI ILIA

LONGINOU A RYV Half-Note 13

VO STILPONOS Caf EMPEDHOKLEOUS NEOPTOLEMOU MARKOU MOUSOUROU IMITTOU U

LIS KYNISKAS é

IO Á

PYRRONOS sante 15 First Cemetery N of Athens DHIKEARHOU MENEKRATOUSILIOUPOLEOS DHAMAREOSEVMENOUS

FRYNONOS

AYELAOU

PNITA FILOLAOU IPPARHOU IMITTOU 0 250 m LYKOFRONOS

Contents Places Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES several temples, bridges and bridges several temples, next totheOlympicStadium; on in asanctuary Ardhitt andwas worshipped Demeter, thesonofPoseidon and god, Theologian. the church of StJohn the andatKar monastery and Ardhitt Ilis double sources ofthislostriver Temple ofOlympianZeus.The wallsthe supporting of the small area at thesouthsideof isa section visible tovisitors only mostly underground.The but nowadays itruns Athens, outside theprotective walls of In ancienttimestheriver flowed River Ilis river valley through whichthe Pangr by thesuburbs ofKouk but thearea bounded aware ofit, Few to visitors Athens would be The RiverIlis Olympic Gamesmarathon. – point forthe Athens Marathon athletes andasthefinishing It Atticus. 120 andindeedforthe2004 Contents Ilis THE FIRSTCEMETERY ó s are nearthe Kessarian ó á ,i niut,was ademi- inantiquity, s, ti and Mets is in fact a ti andMetsisinfact ó ’ s stillusedby local s onceflowed openly. ó s Hill ó s é as near á ki, Places ó s Hill í spirits. held tobehauntedby ancient Ardhitt was onceabucolic location. existedalongwhat sanctuaries the right about300min. the right Kimim istheidealized masterpiece his poverty in 1943; life anddiedinextreme mental illnessformostofhis T belle a ofIanoulisHalepas, works mostnotably inthe of highart, occasionally attainsthestatus graveside statuary graves.The stroll and tendthe picnic, whose descendantscometo families, statesmen andwealthy mausoleumsofsoldiers, ornate with are interspersed writers and artists tombs ofmusicians, humbler Papandreou.The minister prime Andreasformer Schliemannto from Heinrich and twentieth-century Greece, was anybody innineteenth- of justabouteverybody who Nekrotaf (Pr Cemetery The First The FirstCemetery í o.Halepasbattledwith nos. é poque é ó ni s Hillisstillwidely í o) shelters thetombs shelters o) Sepn il,on (Sleeping Girl), sculptor from ó to PLACES Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki s a, ’ í - s ’ 121 Sept. ti Il 210 75 í dhes – é t ti and á nous, mez 210 92 20 é s rustic and s ’ 210 75 68 a Prof at prices that á t í 210 72 23 195. t ki t ti á á and oven-baked ti s live music most music s live dhes ’ á é mousak dhes ous 26, Pangr mez é 5, Kouk é 210 70 19 727. Mon Closed – .There t mez A neat little taverna with taverna A neat little 130, Pangr ti ki ú á á Close to Plate onos 13 & Eratosth t hit too hard, and there Just up from Syngrou-Fix up from Just í kou 3 ’ nda 4, Pangr á k & Sun. Pinelopi kai Mnistires and her Suitors) is a (Penelope by favoured restaurant bustling of fun and no- in search Greeks nonsense food such as the mid-priced souvl type fare.The decor occasional live music. occasional live 281. Pangr evenings. a constantly changinga constantly of menu and original prepared carefully dishes. 555. they sometimes have live music. live sometimes have they Pinelopi kai Mnistires Imitto Psistaria Ambrosia Dhr To Kalyvi To Empedhokl choice,A good budget serving excellent, traditional Mayemenos Avlos Am The long-established is one of a Avlos Mayemenos trio on this of small tavernas square.The setting is diminutive intimate and the patronage mainly Greek. the usual Serves grills and don Kalimarmaron Kalimarmaron Evfor wine, main courses. there In summer an enclosed seating in outdoor garden. 20 641. only, Eves June closed metro, this popular grill place offers on a great value pedestrian full of fast- street food outlets and small restaurants. 210 Edodi t Places 210 70 ki t á ti A smart á 210 72 15 155. One of t 210 92 13 013. Mid-range ti t á version. Good ki kou, Kouk ï á ” va 9, Pangr with prices to match á – A traditional, good- , spicy especially the , seafood and fine meat finest restaurants, ’ with a particularly large ou 4, Pangr

ou 2 & Ve ou 2 & í í í dhes dhes a Varn tika sessions take place on tika sessions take í é é é

kou 80, Kouk THE APANEMIA ï Contents and include swordfish in a and include swordfish fire and lava fire draught wine is served, and reb evenings. Friday and Saturday “ Eves only. dishes such as pot-roast goat. dishes such as pot-roast Athens is a great place for a splurge.The dishes can be almost imaginative dazzling – crust of potatoes with mustard sauce, tart and with feta, tomato, aubergine and prosciutto. all of the you will show Waiters you before various creations a choice. make place popular for its wine- mez 15 169. Sun. Closed 92 28 766. Closed Sun. Pafsan Karavitis Ve Edodi Erekth Apanemia

Aenaon Plate Restaurants value taverna with taverna value draught Eves only, Sun. closed ouzer selection of decently priced mez Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES Fri &Sat. enl olive-oil andvanilla sauce. fennel, andfilletofseabassina truffle, mushrooms and withfoiegras dishes includecream of of simplicityandoriginality.The by itscombination characterized here isFrench-influenced andis theswish menu best restaurant, garden seatinginsummer. of variety own housewineandawide withits and good-value taverna, 719 Opens9pm. 37 109. cubes inaspicysauce). the specialityis as M A Bars t Arhim Xanthippi Arhim Vyrinis the-wall kindofeatery An inexpensive littlehole-in- Vasil O Themistoklis P Spondi 122 dance tomainstream. from music varies night.The of Athens andLykavittos by here hassomeofthebestviews the balcony the over-thirties, Eves only. cr appetizing serves converted oldhouse, a in Olympic Stadiumandset 5.ClosedSun. 153. Merko k ç á Contents 210 7560514. rns5 Pangr rronos 5, ê kouto rkou Mouso ai pes andmeatdishes. é os Georg í í ú dhous 14& Pangr dhous 11, i Pangr ri, ú A contenderfor Athens A popularvenue with ki mez in Greek í ú ou 31&Sp á o ,Mets rou 1, á ti é od low-key A good, ti dhes Á Just behindthe t bekr t rs Pangr gras, E 210 7219553. mez 210 7520658. á .There 2entranceon 12 í ti mez – t Xanthippi é k where dhes rou 210 7012 t – é known 210 92 Places s ’ á s , ti (meat ’ followed by opendancing. nights there are tangolessons andon Thursday includes adrink, coverpopular instyle.The charge t a mature crowd. music drawsand international in gay lounge-barwhere theGreek here ranges from reb themusic appearance himself, whosometimesputsinan Glezos, by thepopularsinger Yiannis Caf Dhr Diavolos MusikiSpiti Live music Zan More Koukles Lemb The Guys Thar Stravos touNotou actsfrom abroad.often featuring Good live jazzmostnights, Trivoniano Half-Note Dam Closed Tues andmuch ofthesummer. 102. with theoccasionalforeign artist. mostlyGreek actsbut featuring the liveliest rock clubsintown, atmospheric venue.atmospheric inthisexcellent, outfits, African or Indian,Armenian Cuban, from mainstream bandsto Afro- means drag actsin Athens ( gay establishment hasthebest lsdMn Tues &May Closed Mon, 4.Wed 244. 1 24 8.Wed 210 9248989. á é í o ,Kouk kou 9, á o 7 NeosKosmos. pou 37, E é es7,Pangr reos 78, Asante i8 Makriy si 8, 6. “ – á dolls Expect toseeanything ú ,cnrSyngro s 3, Mon 10pm 1,Mets 17, ” á ). ki á t nni á 210 9239588. t – ti – 3am. t – t 210 9213310. é Sun only. Koukles Sept. tika to 210 9214 210 7560 ú Kouk , One of A cool, Owned á This ki 123 Suburban Athens Athens pushes its suburbs higher and wider each year

and all the places covered in this chapter, originally well PLACES outside the city, are now approached through a more or less continuous urban landscape. Nonetheless, they variously offer fresh air, seaside settings, and a change of pace from downtown Athens. Suburban Athens

The monasteries of Dhafní Glyfádha and the beach suburbs and Kessarianí, for example, surrounding it are the chief just half an hour or so from the summertime escape for centre, each retain a definite overheating Athenians: not just countryside setting and make beaches, but cafés, restaurants, for an enjoyable break from the clubs and more shops. central bustle. Dhafní has world- famous mosaics; while Dhafní Kessarianí offers exceptional Ierá Odhós, Haïdhari t210 58 11 558. peace and fine walking. Check latest opening details with the The northern suburb of tourist office. As well as being a Kifissiá, with its expensive fabulous example of Byzantine villas, provides an insight into architecture at its best, Dhafní wealthy Athenian life. Its relaxed Monastery is decorated with combination of upmarket mosaics that are considered shopping and café society, among the artistic masterpieces especially busy on Saturdays, can of the Middle Ages.The be combined with a visit to the eleventh-century church you Goulandhrís Natural History see today replaced a fortified Museum and Gaia Centre. fifth-century basilica, which in On the coast, Pireás and the turn had been adapted from the resort of Glyfádha are ruins of a sanctuary of Apollo – technically not part of Athens the name is derived from the (indeed, Pireás is a proud daphnai (laurels) sacred to the municipality in its own right). god. Both the church and the Nevertheless, they too are fortifications which enclose it connected by excellent public incorporate blocks from the transport and by an unbroken ancient sanctuary; however, the ribbon of development. Pireás complex has been rebuilt and has ferries to the islands, a restored so many times over the couple of good museums and years that it’s hard to tell what is some fine waterfront dining. original. Dhafní transport Take bus #A16 or #B16 from Platía Eleftherías, 300m down Pireós from Omónia (Platía Eleftherías is popularly known as Platía Koumoundoúrou and the return buses are so marked); the monastery is to the left of the road, about twenty minutes’ ride. Note that the Dhafní metro station is actually in the suburb of Dhafní, on the other side of the city. Dhafní is easily combined with a visit to Eleusis (see p.137), a further twenty- minute ride on the #A16 bus route.

Contents Places 124

KIFISSIÁ Kifissia 5 E 7 M ATIKI ODHOS 1 Kat M

H A

Maroussi Athens Airport S M S

I A A T S S I K A IRÁKLIO I I NÉA O D S H S Iraklio O S I F FILADÉLFIA M I ÁYII M K PETROÚPOLI ANARGÍRI M Nea Ionia Irini

PLACES Pefkakia M Olympic NÉA IÓNIA Stadium M I S L Perissos E N D ÍLION P E M Ano GALÁTSI Patissia Áyios Eleftherios P

M T

HAÏDHÁRI S S ION I A G NATIO O I SO NAL D M N S S R O A 8 Kato Patissia S E E I M 9 F NÉO 4 I Sepolia M Áyios Nikolaos K Dhafní M PSÍHIKO I E EGALÉO R A Attiki M Ethniki Amyna O M D H Panormou O S Larissa M M Victoria M M Katehaki Metaxourghio M Omonia M Ambelokipoi M Suburban Athens Panepistimio M U LAM M Megaro Moussikis I O B R THIVON Monastiraki G O R A K M G R I I M M M Evangelismos Line 1Syndagma TÁVROS Thissio ZOGRAFOÚ M Petralona M Akropoli PETROU RALI N Tavros M Syngrou-Fix O M V I M Neos H KESSARIANÍ Kessarianí T Kosmos M M Áyios Ioannis M Kalithea Moschato KALITHÉA M Dhafni PIREOS MOSCHÁTO DHAFNÍ VÍRONAS M Pireas POS S I D Line 1 M H O Line N SYNGROU NÉA IMITTÓS Neo Faliro s 1 O V & S O

2 SMÍRNI U s

I ó

PIREÁS PALEÓ G t M t FÁLIRO E i N

P I ILIOÚPOLI O S m S S I D I H O N ALIMÓS O S A LI M O U

Line 2 P N O S S I D H K O N ó O S l p GLYFÁDHA o s

S a V r O o U L I n VOÚLA A A G i L K M k IO N E ó N ID O I

s N S V

R I S á VA rkiza

I KAVOÚRI N A

S VOULIAGMÉNI

Rail 0 4 km Tram

Contents Places PLACES Suburban Athens í s a ’ 125 s. ó – re t take ’ ’ fos ó t miss the ’ don – Í monastery buildings ll find a number of chapels ll find a number s head spouting spring ’ ’ as to the terminus by Kessarian í KESSARIAN The monastery and gardens follow signs to L follow small place, and doesn strongly advised not to drinkstrongly it.The century, the eleventh date from in the frescoes though the cross-in-square chapel (a classic later much design) are duringexecuted sixteenth the centuries.and seventeenth It long to see have done since ancient times. done since have to collect still come Athenians fountains, the local from water you days though these ram water round the back of the round water church. slopes around the pine-forested popular picnic and hiking are Athenians.spots for the Follow the monastery,paths above and you and ruined buildings, of many them signposted. the top From – is Places is a í Sun Í – The transport í 2.50. E

(Christ in Majesty) í mosaic cycle TOR, DHAFN TOR, hereabouts, as they Á tor á s to escape the hubbub. ó 2.30pm; – municipal stadium. here the monastery is a thirty- to forty-minute climb From straight ahead, on a path beside the road up the lower slopes of Mount Imitt Take blue bus #223 or #224 from Akadhim blue bus #223 or #224 from Take Kessarian PANDOKR 210 72 36 619. Tues Inside the church, the The sources of the River The sources Contents Kessarian t 8am celebrated for its completeness: remarkable the life of scenes from are there Virgin,Christ and the saints, and prophets.Thearchangels most magnificent is the Pandokr on the dome: the sixteen lit by of the drum,windows and set against a background of gold, this stern a image directs gaze, and piercing tremendous his finger poised on the Book of Judgement. monastery of Kessarian beautiful and wonderfully peaceful place, the just 5km from high of the city and yet centre enough up the slopes of Mount Imitt for extensive Ilissos provide gardens 126

1 (200m) N

O MYRSINIS N

KIFISSIA R FILY DHILIYIANNI THEOD.

LEVIDHOU

DIONYSOU TATOIOU OTHONOS Gaia TEF. Goulandhrís

I S Centre Natural History YEORGANDA 2 M 3 U

O TA Museum 4

G O

A K PLATÍA R

K H PAPADHIAMANTI Pinakothiki KEFALARIOU

O D 5 S VAS. AMALIA K Kouvoutsaki I A A

PLACES M ADHRIANOU I N Kiffisia Kaloyirou ARGYROPOULOU O PENDELIS S PANAYITSAS R S T Kifissia Park I Glou O K F Preview Exclusive O I K O L EATING & DRINKING K 6 I Z Gallé U C H LOIS Ammonites Café- bus KASSAVETI A I YEORGANDA I Restaurant 3 stop N R K A I S SA S Y V Déja Vu Lifestyle Café 4 O ETI KARA R K ISKAKI H 7 Dos Hermanos 8 D

Katsarina 1 U 8 N A O X O

U KAPODHISTRIO MoBi 5 K A

I U

R AFYENTIOU GR. Monippo 7 ALONION O Y KYPROU ION X K LON Tesseres Epohes 9 A A ACCOMMODATION N TGI Fridays 2 0 250 m Varsos 6 9 Kefalari Suites A Suburban Athens

Taxiarchoú – there are peaceful, cool atmosphere, mean wonderful views across Athens that it comes as a marked to Pireás and the sea beyond, change of pace to the vibrancy with the Acropolis rising in the of the city centre. foreground. Shopping and dining aside, the On the way down you can Goulandhrís Natural History explore Kessarianí district. Its Museum (daily except Fri attractively ramshackle streets 9am–2.30pm; E3) offers a more don’t have anything specifically cultural excuse to visit. Set in a to seek out, but there are plenty fine old mansion, the collection of places to grab a bite or a has especially good coverage of drink. Greek birds, butterflies and endangered species such as the Kifissiá monk seal and loggerhead sea Set on the leafy lower slopes of turtle, plus a 250,000-specimen Mount Pendéli, Kifissiá is one of herbarium. Perhaps more Athens’ swishest suburbs, interesting, especially for kids, offering some great designer the adjacent Gaia Centre shopping and a good selection (same hours; E4.50) offers a of upmarket eating and drinking mildly interactive trip through options. Its lovely nineteenth- the natural cycle of the earth century summer villas and – and ecological issues (note that thanks to the location – the labelling is in Greek, so be sure Kifissiá transport Kifissiá is the northernmost stop on the metro, 35 minutes or so from Omónia, passing the Olympic site at Iríni along the way. There are also numerous buses, including the #550, which heads through the centre via Syngroú and Vassilísis Sofías, and the #E7, #A7 and #B7, all of which start from Platía Káningos near Omónia.

Contents Places 127

to get an audio guide). Lastly, Pireás the Pinakothiki Kouvoutsaki Pireás has been the port of (Tues–Fri 9am–2pm & 6–9pm; Athens since Classical times, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; free) is a when the so-called Long Walls,

private collection of modern scattered remnants of which can PLACES Greek figurative art that’s worth still be seen, were built to a quick look. connect it to the city.Today it is Suburban Athens Sidera Fire Club (50m)

Crete AKTI KONDHYLI 1 Lésvos direct & Híos PIREÁS ETOLIKOU

ARTEMISSIOU

MAVROMIHALI Sámos, Íkaria Kentrikó Limani Cyclades & West Cyclades Train Station (Peloponnese) (Central Port) AYIOU DHIONYSIOU S/ros, Tínos M / ÏDHARIOU & M konos Pireas HA a AKTI KALIMASSIOTI KONONOS Argo- ALIPEDHOU A K See Inset Map T Dodecanese Saronic I POSIDHONOS AKTI X & Crete via other A International V GOUNARI E islands R Argo- Market RETSINA I O ATHINON U AKTI MIAOULI Saronic HATZIKYRIAKOU c ETHN. ANTISTASSEOS

HARILAOU TRIKOUPI HARILAOU A FILONOS L

2ND MERARHIAS 2ND FILONOS I FILONOS S P K ED 5 PILIS I L H I T O KOLOKOTRONI Municipal S U KOLOKOTRONI I SOTIROS Theatre IROÖ N POLYTEKHNIOU Flea SAKHTOURI b d IROÖ N POLYTEKHNIOU Market

KARAÏ SKOU DHIMITRIOU KE KARAOLI KARAÏ SKOU KARAÏ SKOU Archeological PILIS FREATIDHAS KOUNDOURIOTI Museum KOUNDOURIOTI A K T I M O U GRIGORIOU LAMBRAKI T S GEORGIOU VASILEOS GRIGORIOU LAMBRAKI

ZANI O SOTIROS PILIS U

P Peace & Friendship Stadium and New York Summer (100m) O

O L

Pasalímano U

L DELIYIORYI

O O P U O A S K T U T NEORION I M O NEORION

(25m) Nautical

6 Museum SIRANGIOU

N 7 E TZAVELA A K T I S K O T U O Zéa Marina N Open-Air R D O U O S U O R VASILEOS Theatre L I GEORGIOU V O A

T P I

O E

L I

S A N VASSILEOS PAVLOU I V D R 8 E HOUR V 9 ND OU 10 A OU L M I U H O D K Mikrolímano I I T

T K

K (Tuvkolímano) A A 0 50 m EATING & DRINKING BUS STOPS Action Folie 10 a Express #96 b #40 ARISTIDHOU Akhinós 6 M Appaloosa 9 c #49 d #40, #49 & #96 Pireas Hard Rock Cafe 1 KAPODH- LOUDHO- ISTRIOU VIKOU Jimmy and the Fish 8 ACCOMMODATION Old Baker’s 4 ARISTIDHOU A Iy Orea Mykonos 7 Acropole C AKTI KALIMASSIOTI2 Taverna ta Varelía 2 Delfini A B NAVARINOU C Time 5 Electra B GOUNARI3 4 To Voliótiko 1911 3 Mistral D

Contents Places Suburban Athens PLACES apparently mass-produced for between Greeks and Amazons, AD stonereliefs ofbattles good are thesecond-century- Specially from theharbourbed. whose displays were dragged many of excellent littlemuseum, are packed atweekends. and theexcellentfishtavernas Pire cometo Above all,Athenians thanaplacetoshop.experience market flea and abigSunday-morning Museum excellent Archeological Haril Museum Pire Z of the smaller-boatharbours the real attractions are around but ofitsown, fascination gritty hasa andtheport own right a substantialmetropolis inits 128 Tues restaurants.There waterfront caf areas are alive withattractive theupscaleresidential Here, Contents é FERRY, PIRE a Marina andMikrol a Marina metro toZ Om 10min 5am The metrotakesabouttwentyminutesfromOm Pire Z iff fromthecentreof Athens á é – á á a MarinaorMikrol ou Triko Sun 8.30am s toeatonthewaterfront, ó s Archeological nia (every 15min5am nia (every á – more anevent to s transport é ú Á aia trolley-bus#20toMikrol a Marina, – pi 31 S ingt hourly1 midnight, é s, bars and bars s, – 3pm; t ’ s alsoan 210 4521598. í ao whicharealongwalkfromthemetro. mano, E 3. – í ingt hourly1 midnight, mano. An Places – wrhcnieig especiallyifyou worthconsidering, – 5am) runstoandfromS earliest known life-sizebronze. from 530 dating male statue)of Apollo; for thelocal buses. of resort the rocks between here andthe swimming tobeenjoyed from There isalsopleasant(andfree) the bronze must be however, of theshow, star like aminiature temple.The of Athens beaches atraditionalhang-out itsbeautifulcove upmarket, Vouliagm is much more serene. have topay but theatmosphere Vouliagm 20km continue to grave monument that andahuge toRome; export quiet swim it fora all mannerofactivities: andoffer chargeforentry ones, allthemore pleasant certainly and all thebeacheshere, Glyf from away Ang around thecrescent ofLeof down epicentre is here.The half of Athens seemstohead the beach diningorposingon clubbing, centre ofit -forshopping, andthe summer playground, Pire along thecoastallway from analmostunbrokenform line suburbs of The southern Athens Glyf neighbour Vo – í ao Taxis cost mano. a) Bus#904runsfromnearthe 5am). á é á á s to Vouliagm lou Met dha dha andaround ó away. nia toPire ’ V – s mainsquare.Virtually é ’ – 2 C thisisthe BC, 520 ni itselfisvery rich andfamous. rich é á the coastroad by kouros is This is Athens ni rkiza Kavo ’ ú á s betterto k where you still , a whichcurves xa, Glyf la.At weekends la.At ndagma; #49from ndagma; á .Bus#40(every s. E thelaststop , (idealized ú 6 é ’ re headingfor – á i some ni, ri 7 at day-tar- 7 at dha ’ s more or and its ’ ó ros PLACES Suburban Athens . a í á 129 é lou é prou 72, Plat s fashion ’ k s ranges, from ’ shopping Long- Designer ni) or #115/6 -Restaurant á ; K . é é In the very á á . á s only the upper ’ dha. Big, glitzy jewellery ki 16,Ang cnr á á bit of the name la), #E2 express, #A3 or ú good range of lesser- dha. Vouliagm á – s Museum complex, Kifissi – s í ri A Í ú ni 9, Kifissi é ó tsas 6, Kifissi tsas 5, Kifissi s and women ou Lambr í í ’ í ridhon, Glyf xa, Glyf nos 100, in the Gaia Centr Exclusive á é ó Kavo KIFISS – store specializing in silver. store heart of the Kifissi area, men this Greek priced,chain is reasonably though the indicates that it here. end of their range on offer Preview Panay Caf Ammonites Caf Oth Goulandhr and luxurious,Relaxed the but Kaloyirou Panay Esp Li-La-Lo Grigor Glou Exclusive Koloktr established designer shoe store designer established (also with branches downtown). Men footwear footwear Met known brands,known though still expensive. Prada to Miu Miu, stocked. are dha á as. other beaches along the coast, For trans- í dha. dha. á á Places rkiza). also start run- The new coastal tram line should á 26, Glyf V dha. – – á Fashion liro to Glyf ni s fashion in . á ’ é á xa 22 & 24 xa 23, Glyf Vouliagm NI á á – É dha transport ni 10, Kifissi á dha ó á

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ning in 2004, from F #B3:Akadhim them leave all of from servicesfer onto local #114 (Glyf (Glyf From central Athens take bus #A2 (which continues to Vo to (which continues take bus #A2 Athens central From Glyf VOULIAGM Contents Kolokotr Gall Ang Men Ensayar Upscale designer gear, for men. predominantly Central Prince Oliver Ang Shops store with clothing,store accessories of Paul the likes and shoes from as as well Smith and Givenchy local designers. Marginally easier than neighbours on the wallet Gucci and Kenzo. like two shops (one apiece) from two designer names such as Dolce and Gabanna,Voyage.This and is lined with similar,street if less glitzy, places. Suburban Athens PLACES ead so bookingisessential. demand, Waterfront tables are ingreat standards, so is Vouliagm fishisexpensive but then ever, fresh seafood.As simple, serving whole neighbourhood. acting asameetingplaceforthe sticky cakes isaKifissi jamsand home-made yogurts, specializingin patisserie fashioned salad lunch. over your and beseenwhilelingering says itall 26 944. Marango Al Mawal Possidh Akti Akt Akhin Restaurants Kassav Varsos sandwich. stop foraquickcoffeeand thisisahandyplaceto station, Right oppositethemetro Adhriano MoBi Plat D tag. come withaheftyprice sandwiches andlightmealshere 130 restaurant inGlyf lentvs Bookatweekends. alternatives. but lesssothanharbourfront fish, ifyou Pricey goforthe Museum. fromround theNaval thecorner overlooking asmallbeachjust served onacovered terrace traditional Greek specialities 227. 60 448. é Contents í ja Vu LifestyleCaf Themistokl í a Kefalar The best-value Lebanese é ó ó i5 Kifissi ti 5, Wonderful seafoodand ú Taverna by thesea right ú o ,Vouliagm nos 6, s 1,Glyf 18, cnrDhrago – Akti cappuccino freddo comehere tosee í u Kifissi ou, é u 1 Pire ous 51, é á á is goodvalue. ni andby those dha . á This old- dha ú t i Kifissi mi, á . é 210 8944 The name á ni – landmark, á é authentic t s t Places 210 89 or 210 45 á . dancers onSaturdaydancers nights. withbelly food andatmosphere, variety plate.variety bestsampledona specialities, sausagesandBavarian Schnitzels, placesserves German-themed Closed Mon. Kyriaz Dos Hermanos K Buffalo Bill Ethnik Beer GardenRitterburg Vouliagm Athens-So Limanakia Vouliagm Island t Etoliko Hard RockCafe titrainlpie.Itserves prices. at international menu andaninternational decor, simple island table atthe front), magnificent view (ifyou geta thisbar-restaurant has a be seen, the jugful. by plusmargaritas chilli onoffer, you Tex-Mexjoint.As mid-priced Glyf the clubs. place togobefore moving onto andthisisthe nightlife hotspot, is becomingsomethingofa behindtheport district industrial this Infact, chain. international location forabranchofthe in whatseemsanunusual prices. though withexpensive Kifissi late-opening bar-restaurant, inalively, and tastymargaritas Kessarian atthetopof situated right t Sun July plusSunlunchtime;closed Eves only, 6.Summerevesonly. 563. k 210 4136750. 1 22 3.ClosedSun. 210 7222235. ru1,Glyf prou 13, ’ xet there are steaksand d expect, á í í dha moodatthislively, ú s And 2,Kifissi 24, 28cnrPapastr – é Aug. ú ni and V í nio roadbetween o h anra,this onthemainroad, í tss24 Kessarian stasis 214, Good Mexicanfood Get intothe á dha á á Burgers andbeers Burgers

rkiza t é t i,km27on nis, 210 8017337. 210 8943128. á o,Pire tou, The t 210 9653 place to Handily á s í á PLACES Suburban Athens á á s ’ í 210 131 s. t á dha Well- á ou, Kifissi mano has í dha í á 9, Kessarian stasis. Fish is 210 42 85 937. – í a Kefalar t Archetypal í s n, Kastella, Pire á leos 9, Glyf ó ó seos 7 s better value than value s better í ’ s And í Greek taverna Greek : burgers, ribs and mobile ni 35, Plat 14, Pire á ó é s is very much in evidence much s is very á a Anayen s cnr Sfaki í í 210 62 33 947. 210 72 91 533.Aug. Closed Kifissi phones all round, but classier than the considerably branch of this chain. average over Greece and smart, Greece over modern Kifissi this a typical make decor hangout. It Time Skouz of The cosmopolitan nature Pire Trata Plat Sotis Konstantinoup TGI Fridays Koloktr t here: this authentic, inexpensive caters restaurant Indo-Pakistani largely to locals, in the midst of a small ethnic and red-light quarter. Iy Orea Mykonos Iy Orea Mykonos Kilk Mikrol The hill above many and great views popular with locals. restaurants fish This simple island-style taverna, near the open-air theatre, is one of the best, and the significantly cheaper than same fare on the waterfront. 89 42 268. prices at reasonable in standards place this elegantly decorated right at the heart of Glyf strip,restaurant just off the main square. known fish restaurant on a fish restaurant known just tavernas with several square off Ethnik t most, though, has and often Friday on music and Saturday nights. always pricey in Athens, pricey in always this but is good value. í mano, í Places from all from ll need ’ Excellent, nou. dhes 210 62 54 072. é á 210 62 31 440. t S

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rou 46, Mikrol á as, about 700m mez í ú a Plat s something of a í ’ Excellent at the basics stasis 240, Kessarian í MANO, PIRE Í mano. Booking essential 210 41 24 417. í ros Kifiss ros t s And ni 12, Kifissi í as 311, Kifissi í ó í s á Koumoundho í MIKROL 210 72 36 177. Closed Mon. Contents grilled meat and plain Greek Closed Wed. at weekends. – dishes.There of (mainly Greek) crowd of on this stretch restaurants Leof Wide range of Wide Monippo Dhros Straightforward, inexpensive with good, taverna Greek simple food and barrel wines. Ethnik Masa t Katsarina Kifiss Pire Jimmy and the Fish Akt everything from sushi to steak, from everything plus fine wines, and you to book. glamorous and inevitably glamorous occupying fish taverna expensive the prime position among the harbourside places on Mikrol north of Plat Suburban Athens PLACES buzzing nightlifearea. check outalltheactionofthis outside make agoodplaceto every day.The tables the night, for aferry. a goodoptionifyou and but thisisgoodvalue, forte, Murphy and plusbreakfasts spaghetti, souvlakiand as cheesefondue, andamenu asvaried waterfront, the night.Terrace seatingonthe that seafront boulevard. among thebigclubsalong popular placetochillout a ambient music intheevenings, 092. Pire Pire Possidh Sofa Caf Akt Appaloosa Akt Action Folie Bars Gastronomy isn area. oftheport in theheart Traditional Greek taverna right Go To Voli Yiannitsopo Vincenzo 132 a wood oven. including excellentpizzasfrom Italianfare,reasonably priced that Glyf Contents ú í í á Dhilav Koumoundo á á ai9 Pire nari 9, ’ ’ dha s s s openallday andmostof s openallday andlateinto Tranquil caf t t ó ó o 2 Glyf nos 32, 210 4220138. 210 4174325. t ’ tiko 1911 s stout. é é ú 210 8941310. ri 9 o ,Plat lou 1, á – s ú 1 Mikrol 11, o 2 Mikrol rou 62, t ’ t thisarea é 210 4225905. á br with -bar, dha í a Esp ’ A pub-bar Caf re waiting t í mano, Fine, 210 9816 é é ridhon, Places -bar ’ í s mano, a young crowd. including someGreek selection ofdancemusic lush settingandeclectic the heart ofGlyf the heart t Eg Sidera FireClub Greek hits. popular dancesoundsaswell as with remains firmly Western, themusic indecor, Oriental St Ethn New YorkSummer Clubs Plat Tesseres Epohes 41 736. Dhousm Sussex Inn Km 30onthe Athens Venue 54 buzzing seasidesuburb, one ofthehotspotsinthis Recently reinventing itselfinto R Studio 54 V from dance. Greek tomodern andamixofmusicthree bars unamplified live Greek music. andexcellent, snacks, drinks, little barwhere you canenjoy and aquiznightevery Thursday. Caffrey rock music, dartboard, t á í a ,V bas 1, á 210 4612777. 210 8018233. rkiza á dhio Fil leo 21cnrMesolong í plays standard dancevibes. a Ay á rkhou Makar t á An English Pub right in An EnglishPubright í ou Dhim ni 8 á 210 8970333. í as &Ir rkiza – 0 Glyf 10, t í í ro 3 Kifissi triou 13, nis í Big clubwith An unpretentious 210 9656150. u1,F ou 10, á – dha t á So dha 210 4834190. í u Pire ou, ú nio road, Venue – á t – io near liro, with Studio attracts 210 89 – á á ’ s s ’ s 133 Attica Attica (Attikí), the region encompassing the capital, is

not much explored by tourists – only the great romantic PLACES ruin of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Soúnio is well- known. Yet a trip out here makes for a pleasant break, with much of Greece in microcosm to be seen within an hour or two of the capital. There’s mountainside at Attica Párnitha, rewarding archeological sites in Brauron and Ramnous, and, if the heat is getting to you, plenty of beaches too. Combine a couple of these with a meal at one of the scores of seaside psarotavernas (fish restaurants), always packed out on summer weekends, and you’ve got a more than worthwhile day out.

Cape Soúnio major sanctuary to the sea god. A dramatic vantage point from Doric in style, it was built in the which to look out over the time of Pericles, probably by the Aegean, Cape Soúnio (Akrotíri architect of the Hephaisteion in Souníou) has for centuries been the Athens Agora. It owes much a landmark for boats sailing of its fame to Byron, who between Pireás and the islands. visited in 1810, carved his name On its tip stands the captivating on the nearest pillar (an Temple of Poseidon unfortunate and much-copied (Tues–Sun 10am–sunset; e5), precedent) and immortalized the heart of what was once a the place in verse.The setting is

Attica transport Soúnio buses depart on the hour and half-hour from the KTEL terminal on Mavrommatéon at the southwest corner of the Pedhíon Áreos Park; there’s also a more central (but in summer, very full) stop ten minutes later on Filellínon, south of Skndagma at the corner of Xenofóndos. There are both coastal (paraliakó) and inland (mesoyiakó) services, the latter slightly longer and more expensive. The coast route normally takes around two hours; last departures back to Athens are posted at the Soúnio stop. There are frequent buses to Rafína (40min) and several a day to Marathónas (many via the beaches at Skhiniás), Loútsa and Pórto Ráfti (Pórto Ráfti buses sometimes give the final destination as Avláki). For Vravróna it’s easiest to go to Loútsa, and then transfer to the local bus that plies up and down the coast road: this bus stops right outside the site (look for the Club Med, directly opposite) and terminates just beyond. Ramnous is not realisti- cally accessible by public transport, though you should get a lift for the final few kilometres if you take a bus to Ayía Marína (several daily) and hitch from the junction. Buses to Párnitha run from Platía Váthis twice daily, at 6.30am (6.40am weekends) and 2.30pm, with extra services on Sunday at 8am and 3.40pm. Buses to Fylí also leave from Platía Váthis. For Eleusis take bus #A16 from Platía Eleftherías, on Pireós. Ask to be dropped at the “Heroön” (Sanctuary), to the left of the main road, a short way into Elefsína. A trip to Eleusis is easily combined with Dhafní (p.123), which you pass on the way.

Contents Places Attica PLACES

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Consisting only of ó s s, a long, pine-backed ó á Sun 8.30am Sun 8.30am á – – Mound of the Plataians mvos Marath mvos b Marath (Tues can still be seen, off the road Raf between Marath where the eleven Plataians the eleven where boy) (including a ten-year-old laid to rest,who died were is about 5km of the mountain; there museum archeological (Tues plenty of places to eat, there but options attractive more many are head for the coast. if you with a sparse collection of artefacts, the local mainly from of Pan,Cave a deity felt to have aided the victory. village of village Athens. from Here,BC, in 490 a and Athenians of 9000 force Plataian allies 1000 of their army 25,000 defeated a Persian strong.After the victory a Athens to sent to runner was the news:declare run the having first marathon, his he delivered dead. dropped message and Athenians died in the 192 Just to some 6000 battle (compared Persians), and the burial mound laid, were they where the T overgrown earth piled ten overgrown high,metres rather now and neglected,overgrown it is a monument. quietly impressive The Skhini Skhini water,strand with shallow is one beaches within of the best free Athens. of easy reach Big of some chance enough to allow escaping the crowds, its southern parts relatively are developed, of with a number sections pay-beach cordoned-off and beach clubs offering showers, and umbrellas watersports. Further north , s ’ fti á lies at Places ,from to kri na á rto R í ó tsa P ú a M Raf ). é Lo N along the coast.To NA Í p.136 vvia. Boats aside, the s line of roof-terrace ’ away É na ( ó s continual development s continual ’ FERRY, RAF There are local beaches in easy are There Contents Marathon The site of the most famous and most importantarguably Athenian military victory in history the is not far from jaded Athenians.Thejaded main route for out of the city heads straight the little portof can head off to you where islands,numerous including nearby appeal of the place is mainly gastronomic: the little fishing harbour is one of the seafood restaurants Attica spots on most inviting coast, of the comings with views and goings of the port a free extra. distance,walking and others, all dining, seafront with more further the north, to Marathon en route or Ramnous, the heart of a string of small beach developments. South, there down through through down Vravr just beyond, attractive, is more with a scattering of popular and, restaurants waterfront in summer, a thriving nightlife scene. Attica PLACES the sand. fromapart scattered tavernas on 8.30am section ofancientroad. anda goddessofjustice, Themis, of asmallertemplededicatedto are alsotheremains instead.There the marble tocreate astatue andthe Athenians used Marathon, atthebattleof however, victory.They mettheirnemesis, intended tocommemoratetheir marble block uponwhichthey with themtoGreece agiant by theirpresumption inbringing the Persians herwrath incurred Pausanias records that retribution. Nemesis isaDoric ruin to therocky shore. alltheway down the fencedsite, be seencontinuing way below canclearly walls andfortifications andremains of earliest times, Athenian lookout pointfrom the strait to down totheseaandacross the with magnificentviews steeply hillsidesite atmospheric isolated, (Ramno ofRamnous ruins Summer Mon12.30 Ramnous there 136 8am Contents ihntest,theprincipal Within thesite, RAMNOUS – 7pm; winter Tues ’ s far lessdevelopments far – 3pm. É ú goddessofdivine , vvia.The sitewas an vvia.The ndas) occupy an e 2. Temple of The little-visited – p,Tues 7pm, – Sun Places – Sun winter Tues the goddessandchildbirth. connectedwith enact aritual young to dressed asbears girls inwhich shrouded inmystery, now Athens andotherrites, featured aprocession from festival every fouryears.This whichstagedanimportant cult, was thechiefsiteof Artemis children.Vravr new-born andprotector of childbirth, goddessofhuntingand Artemis, stoa centred onavast The remains, enjoyable minorGreek sites. isoneofthemost Brauron, Ancient Vravr 12.30 Site &museumsummerMon Vravr contains somedamagedfrescoes. steps leaduptoachapelwhich Nearby, with tadpolesinspring. squirming stillwells up, spring thesacred immediately adjacent, foundations canbemadeout; whosestepped temple itself, ofthe scantier are theruins Somewhat BC. are fifthcentury both along withastonebridge; been substantiallyreconstructed, has where these initiatesstayed, asyby whichcomesalivemarshy bay, waterlogged The The site , are of a Sanctuary of are ofaSanctuary , – ó p,Tues 7pm, Stoa oftheBears na – Sun 8.30am – frequently – ó overlooks a – a alsoknown as na, Sun 8am – 3pm. – 7pm; ó , e na 3. PLACES Attica a í ni ú 137 s hard at ’ The rnitha rnitha á á na, at the 3. í Cave of Cave e re driving,re ’ monastery (known locally (known itself is a í 3pm. 1:50,000 na) í – í ’ is highly Fyl . so if you – n fi refuge up the Ho up the fi refuge ) via the restored , and about an hour map á ó á rique.A topographical é Sun 8.30am , Menander used as which dha, top of the 2.3km west – piza spring.Another highly á Phyle í rnitha leph The mountain is also home to The mountain is also home Note that roads on P Note that roads á é Sanctuary of Demeter Eleusis, on the edge of the modern of Elefs town Eleusis (Elefs Tues beginning of the Sacred Way to Way beginning of the Sacred Athens, one of the most was important in the ancient Greek world. millennia, two For the as the ritual known ceremonies performedMysteries here. were The ruins of the sanctuary, however, though extensive, date ages of different several from largely and are rebuilding to foundations.reduced It Road Editions P recommended. and multicoloured paint and multicoloured on the trees).Thesplodges principal approach the ones are to the B Tr i station of the Mount P local landmarks map showing just is posted (labelled in Greek) behind the church. the ruined still impressive but fourth-century-BC Athenian fort of popular country culinary outing with lots of family-Athenians for and restaurants. style tavernas are notoriouslyare of bereft signposts ravine, to the walk and the Sk of spot for lovers evocative is the classical ghosts Pan one of his plays. the setting for track is by The best approach Ay the chapel of and trail from t three-quarters foot beyond on the village of Fyl as Khasi fourteenth-century of Klist Places ll find ’ oad.Various s bus rides bus from ’ away by r rnitha and Phyle lies down here,lies down a á city centre, Mount ’ rnitha vast is an unexpectedly FORTRESS AT PHYLE Contents á finds from the sanctuaryfinds from are displayed, some including heads modelled after the marble little girls, and bear-masks. Scarcely an hour Scarcely Mount P good 2km early in the morning and late at and the night with birdsong of frogs.Thecroaking site museum Athens and virgin tract of forest, rock and ravine. a you It will give mountains taste of what Greek about, all are including a good selection of mountain flowers. The trip is especially April, or in March worthwhile lies surprisinglywhen snow late on the north side and, in its wake, carpets of crocus, alpine squills and mountain windflower spring the mossy ground, from you down while lower P aubretia, tulips, iris dwarf and a whole range of orchids. Much a of the mountain is now National Park, are and there paths on waymarked numerous discs the mountain (look for red Attica PLACES hallucinogenic influence. Words and speak potion containing themagic orvessels fungus-infected grain, Things the oftheremains, most important point you inthedirection ofthe will finds from thesite.This andsomeexcellent in itshistory stages atvarious of thesanctuary whichfeatures models museum, best planistoheadforthe would exhibitthe ofDemeter here thatthepriests itwas ofthecult: at theheart windowless Hallof Initiation lay to work outwhat 138 Contents ELEUSIS for he knows life for heknows “ whohas anyone nottoreveal theircontent, wasboundonpainofdeath others, likeall whoexperiencedtheritesinClassicaltimesand, AccordingtoPindar, cult. modern ofany equaltothat The ancientMysterieshadaneffectontheirinitiates The MysteriesofEleusis Persephone andthemythofherdaughter thegoddessofcorn, around thefigureofDemeter, hita r,buteventuallyfellvictimtotheneworthodoxy. Christian era, wellintothe TheMysteriessurvived effects tothoseofmodernpsychedelicdrugs. producingsimilar rituals entaileddrinkingapotioncontaininggrain-ergotfungus, oneofthe suggeststhat Onetheory Sacred Eleusis. hereat Way tothesanctuary als, including mass bathing and purification in the sea at F intheseaat including andpurification massbathing als, aftervariousritu- and, outsidethePropylaiaon Acropolis, in gathered Athens, Participants upto30,000peoplefromallovertheGreekworld. attracting tival, the miracle offertility. came tosymbolizetherebirthofcrops(andgodsresponsibleforthem)and seen the holy things [at Eleusis] and goes in death beneath theearthishappy, beneath Eleusis]andgoesindeath seen theholythings[at Telesterion salse nMcnentms ehp serya 50B,thecultcentred asearly1500BC, perhaps Established inMycenaeantimes, By the fifth century BC the cult had developed into a sophisticated annualfes- BCtheculthaddevelopedintoasophisticated By thefifthcentury ” ”– whilst undertheir presumably sheaves of “ the Unutterable ’ nuldsetit n eurcinfo h newrd which s annualdescentintoandresurrectionfromtheunderworld, ’ s end and he knows thenewdivinebeginning. s endandheknows .This ’ ht sothe s what, “ Holy Places – Oct So hotel, Just beforetheturn-offfor Aigeo Akriogiali Restaurants the day here. and grills hearty Moderately priced, Leof Farangi Lim I Avra Excellent home-made Nikol tou Antoni I Avli 09 0.Fri 40 97709. rarity inGreece.rarity otherwisea fresh coriander, fish andsaladsthateven feature but well-preparedpricey grilled on theharbour, cooked toperfection. issimplebut mainlyfish, food, guests have dinedhere.The Greek number ofillustrious character andhistory and-white taverna hasboth and – á ó April closedApril eves. i Raf ni, á mez mayireft ros Fyl ou Plast ú é nio dhes í na í ,Fyl s, t á í – a1,N ra 10, moderatelypriced. , t Sun evesonly. 229 2039107. are theorder of 229 4091598. í

á t I Avra liro, followed the followed liro, ” 210 2411475. This blue- é a M – a serves mez á kri t é dhes Set 229 PLACES Attica A Fri 139 229 poulou – This t ó 229 40 229 20 Xypolitos t . t á Close to na í (smoked and (smoked vrio ou Papad í á 229 40 56 461. lia é t (entrail sausages) mayireft nos,of little way out a ó na ou 8, Raf í ó s a little pricey. ’ kas 99, L 229 40 28 342. Mon mbes á ou & Georg ú t í 229 20 39 125. A good, inexpensive The moderately priced t tsa os Georg a Marath ros Pl ros Marath pastourmadh í ú é ó ó na on the way to Marathonna on the nio í gardho ú 40 32 900. Closed eves & Mon. Raf eves only, Sat & Sun all day. 25 688. and spiced meat wedges). the ancient site and with a the ancient site and with stunning view, this simple traditional dishes serves taverna in which fish features predominantly. mid-range, family-style on music has live restaurant Friday, and Sunday. Saturday Vrakha Leof 27 745. Xypolitos 25th Mart 1, Lo Syrtaki So Adhelfia Tria Paral Rombolo Rombolo Leof Sta Kala Kathoumena Vasil is one of the oldest and best fish along the coast, tavernas although it place to sample suckling pig and in vine leaves,lamb cooked or a wide range of dishes show a marked home- a marked dishes show cooking bent and include such Constantinopolitan dishes as on the taverna decent waterside beach at Marathon, with middling prices. á 229 Thurs t One s also – ’ The fti Palam na Places í á though ó – specializes rto R ó a Marath í 229 20 60 841. Mainly fish, with 229 40 23 421. 229 40 dishes, at prices that t t ou 118, P Kali Kardia VRIO í á Á 229 40 23 856. Mon na s not cheap. A good fish taverna, í ’ t . vrio has been around for over has been around á na í ous 24, Paral t break the bank. t break dhes é a, L ros Avlak ’ mayireft í ni, Raf é ó á TAVERNA, L 22940 55243. Contents 90 71 292. in grills, with excellent beef ribs.patties and spare inexpensive inexpensive of the better harbour tavernas, better harbour of the with prices this, that reflect Ioakeim fifty years. in the features Fish main, try but wild leaf salads the in season; or seaweed there t Leof Psaropoula-Bibikos Right on the waterfront, the comes here excellent fish served the boats straight from Psarotaverna Paradhosiako Paral as ever, it Kavouri Perikl Kali Kardia Hall,Town Just behind the Kost Lim Ioakeim 12, Raf eves only, Fri, Sat & Sun all day. also serving grilled meats and a few a smattering of moderately priced grilled meats and various mez excellent pickled octopus. excellent pickled won 140 Further afield With the use of a hire car or by taking one of many tours available out of Athens, you can visit a wealth of sites and attractions, all within a few hours’ reach. Highlights include the stunning ruins of Delphi (site of the famous

PLACES Delphic Oracle in ancient times), mountain hiking on the slopes of Mount Parnassós and the impressive ancient sites of Tiryns and Mycenae. From the port of Pireás, too, you can easily jump on a comfortable ferry or fast hydrofoil and be on a Greek island in the Argo-Saronic gulf within an hour or two, making for some wonderfully varied day-trips – although you may want to enjoy longer Further afield outings by taking advantage of the countless places to stay you’ll find everywhere you go.

Mt Parnassós Delphi Aráhova N Dhelfí Itéa Livadhiá Galaxídhi

Thíva

Gulf of Corinth hiakoftó Pórto Akráta Yermenó Dhervéni

Spíleo Perahóra Xylókastro Elefsína ● Sólos Kiáto Mégara ATHENS ELMÓS KYLLÍNI Loutráki f Kórinthos kes Pireás ● Feneós KORINTHÍA Salamína Kastariá Corinth Kartéri Lake Stymfalía Égina Mycenae Fíkhti ARGOLÍDHA Angístri Skála Ayía Marína Égina Paleá Epídhavros Árgos ÉNALO Lygourió Epidauros Méthana HÍA Tiryns Póros Trípoli Náfplio Póros Toló Kastráki Parálio Ástros Galatás

Ermióni Ástros Kranídhi Ídhra

Áyios Andhréas Pórto Héli Ídhra Kósta Paralía Tyroú Spétses 0 20 km Leonídhi Pláka P Á Contents Places PLACES Further afield – á 141 – cleft in ,a on Castalian í Fri 226 50 82 – a day run a day , of just west í t Tholos Sanctuary of buses s also possible to s also possible ’ 2.30pm; s.There is a helpful , lies further east, is located on a sharp – ó Sacred Precinct Sacred re driving,re the old road take ’ Modern Dhelf The Up to six towards Thebes. towards contains most of the sights contains most of Temple including the Apollo, theatre the impressive and the stadium.The Marmaria, or Athena walkabout a ten-minute along on the and the main road opposite side.The most in the conspicuous building is the precinct fourth-century BC rotunda. of its dome-columns Three been have and their entablature while these re-constructed but originalamply demonstrate the beauty of the building, its ultimate purpose a still remains historicmystery.The spring the Marmariabend between Precinct.and the Sacred It is niches for votive by marked offerings of the remains and by fountain house an archaic a from still flows water the Phaedriades cliffs. the site, an impressive enjoys location.Almost geared entirely to tourism, its attraction lies in its mountain setting, its to the ancient ruins proximity and its access to the popular of Mount skiing centre Parnass tourist office (Mon 7.30am Athens, to Delphi from direct the Lioss from leaving terminal. It train, by travel though this changing at Livadhi involves there. from and a local bus If you ideally at the beginningideally or end day,of the at or (in winter) lunchtime, the crowds. to escape hall900) in the town on the main thoroughfare. lower 6, e 5pm; – Places 5pm; 9 joint ticket – e Fri s easy to see ’ – Delphic t enough to 6, or ’ s, it ó e 7pm; winter 8am – , to which kings and 7pm; winter 8am 6.45pm, Sat & Sun 2.45pm. 2.45pm; winter daily – – – – With its site raised on the With 9 joint ticket with museum. THOLOS, DELPHI THOLOS, e Delphi is a large and complex Contents slopes of a high mountain terrace to either and dwarfed crags of the massive side by Mount Parnass Sacred Precinct daily: summer 7.30am Delphi confirm presence, a divine this, to Plutarch,according was was chasm a rock where that exuded strange discovered people to and reduced vapours frenzied, and incoherent mutterings.Thusprophetic was born the famous Oracle in an simple citizens flocked attempt to forsee their future. ruin, stages, in two taken best with the sanctuary and precinct why the ancients believed why of the Delphi to be the centre earth.As if the natural setting and and occasional earthquake weren avalanche or Museum summer: Mon 7.30am 8.30am 8.30am with site.Athena daily: Sanctuary of summer 8am free. Further afield PLACES During thewinterit During of craftware andfoodstuffs. andshopssellingallkinds eaves, wooden stonewalls, architecture, withitsvernacular little place, of Parnass Ar villageof The strung-out Ar 142 Contents á á TEMPLE OFZEUS,DELPHI Delphoi hearrivedintheformofadolphin Legendhasitthat Crete. whoseculthadbeenimportedfrom slainby Pythonwaslater Apollo, priestess. madethroughthePythian andcommunication was installedinanearbycave, sonofGea, SubsequentlytheserpentPython, and toPoseidon (theEarthShaker). thefirstoracle toGea(MotherEarth) that establishedonthisspotwasdedicated The originsoftheDelphicOracle areuncertainbutitwasbelievedbytheancients The DelphicOracle empire; hedid neighbouringPersia amighty ifheembarkedonwaragainst hewoulddestroy that ular chasm. wouldchantherpropheciesfromatripodpositionedovertheorac- years inage, womanoffiftyormore asimpleanddevoutvillage ThePythianpriestess, tablets. waittosubmit questionsinscribedonlead dependingontheomens, and, a goat Onarrivaltheywouldsacrificeasheepor loveorbusiness. worship, ters ofwar, toDelphiinorderseekdivinedirectionmat- up thedangerousmountainpaths by ancientwitnessesofthePythianpriestesses. described producedthekindoftrancesandbehaviour whichcouldhave ethane, emittedtrance-inducinggasessuchasmethaneor or earthquakefaultlinethat sitedoverageological Theoracle been deliberately may have logic phenomena. sound advice. retained itspopularityandinfluenceforsolongwithoutofferingpredominantly oa dwarfed by thepeaks hova, hova ayo h rclraseswr qioa.Coss o xml,wastold forexample, Croesus, wereequivocal. oftheoracularanswers Many streamofpilgrimsmadeitsway asteady For overathousandyearsthereafter, One theory suggests that the prophetic inspiration oftheOracle thepropheticinspiration wasduetogeo- suggeststhat One theory . ó ,isapicturesque s, – hson Butit hisown. ’ s popular Places ’ s hard to imagine that theoracle that wouldhave s hardtoimagine from Athens andDelphi. dancing. toseeauthenticfolk- region inthe of thebestopportunities andone of continuous partying, the excuseforalmosttwo days is church atthetopofhill, centred onthe within Lent), falls Tuesday afterEaster ifthisdate Ye however.summer, Notallare openin upmarket. many distinctly wine anddine, wide selectionofgoodplacesto the busy mainroad.There attractive backstreets windingoff hil cheese andlocalpastaknown as produce oflocal browse thewidevariety stop atany timeofyear to but it with skiers, There are dailybuses toand The localfestival of ó ó pittes yo Arl2,orthe 23, (April ryios – – andtowander the includingwine, – hencethename ’ s worth abrief Á yios ’ s a 143

DELPHI: THE SACRED PRECINCT

N PLACES

Temenos of Dionysos Theatre Further afield

Stadium

Temenos of Stage Poseidon

Sacred Way Altar of Apollo

Sacred Way Temple of Apollo

Terrace Polygonal Wall Sanctuary of Gea Athenian Stoa

Bouleuterion

Sacred Way

Treasury of the Athenians

Monument of the Admirals Theban Treasury Sacred Way Siphnian Treasury Main Entrance Sikyonian Treasury

0 20 m Offering of the Arcadians Offering of Marathon

Mount Parnassós the area remains an attractive Mount Parnassós, rising to break from the city. almost 2500 metres at its highest The best routes for walkers are point, is a popular climbing and those up from Dhelfí to the walking destination, as well as a Corycian cave (practicable ski centre in winter.The heights from April to Nov, but not in are easily accessible, and though midsummer without a dawn they no longer rank as complete start), or the ascent to the wilderness, thanks to the ski summit of Mount Liákoura station above Aráhova and its (2455m) that commences from accompanying paraphernalia of the Yerondóvrakhos ski station lifts, snack bars and access roads, (May–Oct only).With your

Contents Places Further afield PLACES you but once to theentrancegate, Ages. theMiddle during fortresses Tues summer daily8am winter 8am one ofGreece became kilometres ofwall.This largely encircled by two still massofrock, enormous above theancientcityonan Acrocorinth occupy thestunningacropolis of which of themedieval city, are theruins though, compelling, Temple Most of Apollo. ofthe scale by themajesticruin enclosure is given asenseof main and necropolises.The gymnasiums outlying stadiums, sections ofancientwalls, sequence ofsitesthatencompass occupy arambling times, Greek province inRoman displaced Athens ascapitalofthe which ofancientCorinth, ruins oit al:summer8.30am Corinth daily: Corinth up themountainfrom Ar own you transport coulddrive 144 the Corycian cave.the Corycian aroute to booklet summarizing withanattached investment, 42, no. Road Editions For extendedexplorations, easily becombinedwithawalk. any ofwhichcan slope, north Pol orfrom L on thesouth, Contents There ACROCORINTH a ’ – ve reached thetopandare dhrosos or Amf Sun 8.30am Parnassos ’ s afour-kilometre climb – 5pm. towering 565m , ’ s mostpowerful ’ – e – 1:50,000 map isawise , p.Free. 3pm. 7pm; winter .Acrocorinth: 6. í lia onthe í lea, – Places The á 7pm; hova displayed show theprogression Thefinds buildings. former helps identifysome ofthe socallinghere foundations, visible todaythe ruins are just rest ofthesanctuary visited before you explore the whichisbest small museum, Closeby the theatre isa site. Venetians and Turks. Frankishcrusaders, Byzantines, Romans, by Greeks, in turn erected houses andbattlements, mosques, jumble ofchapels, you wander through a remains, theextensive importance.Amid a senseofitsstrategic you really get gulfs, Corinthian overlooking theSaronic and ie,it times, BCintoRoman sixth century from the for halfamillennium, placeofpilgrimage Asklepios.A dedicated tothehealinggod intheancientworld, sanctuaries one ofthemostimportant one componentofwhatwas ofseats. the 54tiers orchestra from thehighestof dropped inthecircular matches, oreven that you canhearcoins, has near-perfectacoustics it with mathematicalprecision, Constructed nineteenth century. it was rediscovered onlyinthe 8am summer Monnoon landscape merges perfectlyintothe Epidauros backdrop ofrolling hills, ( Festival oftheannual Hellenic as part productions ofClassicaldrama makes acompellingvenue for 330 ancient foritsstunning primarily Epidauros (Ep daily8am Site: Epidauros h har,hwvr isjust however, The theatre, – – 7pm; wintercloses 5pm. 2 C whosesetting 320 BC, ’ theatre s now a World Heritage see p.170 ’ – s 14,000-seattheatre s el nfc,that infact, sowell, – p.Museum: 7pm. í dhavros) isvisited – built around , p,Tues 7pm, .With its ). – mostof – e – Sun such 6. Further afield PLACES s ’ t ’ 145

N dhi í fplio á Theatre Ancient fplio á exudes a grand, slightly faded elegance, inherited days the from the when it was of fledgling capital modern in the Greece early nineteenth postcard- century.The old town,pretty with N A lively, beautifully sited town, N Museum Sanctuary of Egyptian Gods a pleasant buzz that you don you that a pleasant buzz towns. often witness in Greek the fit,For the climb up to the twin fortressesPalam of its paved and mostly its paved pedestrianized streets, has an and of colourful abundance tastefully decorated restaurants and handicraft shops, and there EPIDAURUS (EPÍDHAVROS) Odeion Gymnasium Greek Baths Places Temple of Temple Asklepios Hotel Xenia ; are there Asklepian Sanctuary Abaton Tholos Parking Asklepion 0 100 m Stadium EPIDAUROS Contents of medical skills and cures used of medical skills and cures at the tablets recording miraculous recording tablets alongside advanced- cures looking surgical instruments. Further afield PLACES old town precinct. are withina 500mwalk ofthe Bothbus andtrainstations train. more attractive or open late. Synd are quieter on Plat and tomuch of the shippinglanetotown 1473 by the Venetians tocontrol andwas built in the harbour, Theodh seafront ofBouboul western palm-tree fringed patronized caf inthewell- of urbanchic Athenians weekends by crowds ofvisiting Bo town well worth theeffort.The is overlooking theoldtown, on theheadlandand iys(T Tiryns of times theancientfortress 8.30am summer8am Daily: Tiryns winter 8am summer8am (daily: 146 hillock intoday strandedonalowstructure leaving thisimpressive receded, gradually however, shore, and Mycenae.The Aegean the coastalapproaches to Contents o cangettoN You Caf TIRYNS ú – much slower but much ti occupiesthe Ay rtzi, á ’ é hr ot thestunning s third fort, mts where placesstay gmatos, life – 3pm. ó rou isletoffshore from í ryntha) commanded ryntha) – – – reaches the heights swelled at e 6.30pm; 3. é s liningthe – ’ In Mycenaean – s plains, Á by twice-daily 7pm; winter rgos bay. í a á – í fplio by bus nas.Things 7pm; e ) out 4), í ou Places Á rgos Cyclops couldhave constructed that a could onlyimagine who Cyclopean by laterGreeks, and walls were considered whose hugeslopinggateposts the citadelisLionGate, of part most visuallyarresting and the Treasury of Atreus.The of two parts their basisinfact. that thetalesofHomerhad the siteof Troy) withproving Schliemann (whoalsoexcavated archeologist Heinrich obsession oftheGerman testament above alltothe 8.30am K just eastoftheroad from Tucked intoafoldofthehills Mycenae and pick up passengers outside.and pickuppassengers and frequent localbuses drop off the main The siteliesjusttotheeastof near-solitude isworth taking. Homer towanderopportunity about the relatively emptyofvisitors; substantialsiteis accessible, explainswhypart this highly whichin neighbour Mycenae, impressive thanthatofitsshowy settingisless prison.The alongside alargemodern groves, bysurrounded citrus summer 8am (Myk at Mycenae The extensive siteismadeup ó rinthos to rinthos ’ – s 3pm; “ Á wall-girt Tiryns wall-girt rgos – – found in 1876.The mask ( golddeath famous was here thatthe It Agamemnon. the actualtombof Schliemann tobe thought by “ known as Circle impressive Grave Lion Gateisan Beyond the them. Á thecitadelitself A p;winter 7pm; e gs the rgos, – ” 6) bears N and originally í nes) (daily: á see p.10 fplio road, citadel ” in )was

PLACES Further afield

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■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ LOWER CITY South House Tomb of Tomb Merchants’ Houses Aegisthus Tomb of Tomb Entrance Gate Modern village of Myk Clytemnestra Treasury of Atreus of Treasury P Gate Entrance Tomb of Agamemnon of Tomb P Grave Atreus MYCENAE (Tomb of (Tomb Circle B Contents Treasury of Treasury Agamemnon) history, so the attribution to Agamemnon or his father is as it might good as any.Whoever belonged to,have this beehive- structure is an impressive like to Mycenaean monument skills. building This was certainly a royal burial certainly a royal This was in Mycenae at a late stage vault which is what is now describedwhich is what is now as the rest of the site is scattered over of the site is scattered rest the hillside, the while just down is the tremendously road impressive Further afield PLACES iteby beach andhamlet of little bay, ofSk port from the to beexplored onfoot, É Pire Just onehour Ang tavernas É of accommodation intheport village of Ay or perhapstheeastcoastresort frequented by Athenian yachties; and fishtavernas thatare often P or thelow-key fishingvillageof oftheisland; corner northeastern atthe stands inlonelyvigil 148 a ticket from thebooths. quay inPire the ferry is unnecessary andadvance booking hydrofoils, you island isfrequent andgood; island ladenwiththem. can seetheorchards around the thesummermonthsyou during and producer ofpistachionuts, Pire rather cheaperthanin Athens or usually to specializeinfish, é gina gina andplentyofgood gina, Contents There rnpr toandfrom the Transport FERRY TICKETBOOTHS rdhika with itscosyharbour ’ á á ve a choice of ferries or ve achoiceofferries í stri s.The islandisalsoabig s.The s – – ’ Ang orfifteenminutes from s agoodselectionof – restaurants here tend á la tothedelightful í í a Mar stri issmallenough stri ’ s ferry trip from trip s ferry – just turn upat justturn í na. á s andbuy Places the island. covered hillsontheeastsideof cliffsandpine- crumbling backed by (clothing optional), Halik little more seclusionat at Sk island. ofthe the southeastcorner plateauin the edgeofafertile community ofLimen and thesmallfarming you Ontheway offshore islets. Ap more extensive Kal P by Sferi (The Ford) two isinfact islands: P just a450-metre strait, Separated from themainlandby P place to be.The caf place tobe.The animated alively, picturesque, whichisexceptionally Town, making P hugely popular, proximity toPire catch to passers by.Therecatch to passers attempt toselltheir fishermen while flow ofcustomers, aseeminglyendless entertain tavernas andrestaurants ó There ros ó ’ io,withitstwo tiny nisos, ll passM ó á á á (occupiedalmostentirely ros andthemuch Town), a thoughyou may finda la, dha pebble beach ’ s adecentsandybeach a los (Megalokh á s meansit á é ra Its vria. ,waterfront s, á i,setat ria, ó ’ s little ó ros ros ’ s ó ri) PLACES Further afield 149 a – ” a í a í Oik the town, so “ Sun – 2).Thanks to the e some are labelled at labelled some are – leos, with a distinctive away from ó 5pm; – dhra also reputedly has no dhra also reputedly Í fewer than 365 churches 365 churches than fewer total claimed by many a Greek many total claimed by island, with some here but justice.Theimportant most is of Panay the church Mitrop and a Byzantine clocktower (Tues museum 10am lack of transport, people few venture a short walk will take you to you will take a short walk surprising isolation; are there sandy beaches,no real but are coves rocky numerous (with less effort,accessible you boat or by can also get to many the harbour). from water-taxi (home) and the family name. most of them built during them built most of the centuryeighteenth on the of a wealth accumulated fleet,merchant remarkable were and Venetian designed by still and are Genoese architects of the the great monuments island. map is available A town in seeking interested are if you out any the entrance with ll see ’ Places vria, thanks dhra á Í – it is not Sat – – away from the 3pm; a worth are free) s, getting less expensive – é ROS HARBOUR Ó P The mansions themselves, Contents dhra it at its best if you visit on a it at its best if you or out of season:weekday on the plus side, the visitors mean plenty of excellent restaurants and caf The port and town of The port town and head as you waterfront. Í (Hydra), with tiers greystone of mansions and white-walled, houses climbing red-tiled perfect a steeply up from horseshoe harbour, a make magnificent spectacle. Both beautiful and peaceful on to an almost total ban motor vehicles surprisingly popular.You specific to seek out,specific although and clocktower the hilltop small, archeological well-labelled (Mon museum whose south coast is fringedwhose south by of pine-shaded a succession bays. 8.30am look. peaceful a more For escape, to Kal head over Further afield PLACES pasta isagoodchoice. fondue isonthemenu European withSwissovertones cuisineis but worth it.The stunning. view is from theterrace goodhere particularly thewildboarstew is in Delphi, 308. summer. onthecobbles in seating andthere seafood, for relatively inexpensive Vasil Kakanarakis Dhelf Pavlou &Fredirikis 33, Epikouros t Sm Cnr Khr. En Etei1929 t P Andonis fare. pittes excellent serving Popular haunt Ar ski centre, At thejunctionforMountParnassos Ta Alonia Panayioti Irioti28, Behind Agora Restaurants 150 531 Evesonly. 25 371. still goodvalue but thehigh-qualitydishesare littlepricey,the harbourhere.A popular ofthefishtavernas on mez anddependably good priced ofreasonably avariety serving 83 250. in tomatosauce). and braised cockerel withnoodles, é 275 2029007. Contents 229 7061443. dia 9kmfrom rdhika, í é ssis Agora kokkinist dhes n od solidmountain and good, É One ofthebesteateries gina Town Ó plusdishes suchas , gs1,N lgas 18, k rnis &Markopo is particularly good is particularly á hova ó (meat simmered A shadeupmarket, The most É ’ Lively place s fishmarketon t gina É á gina Town, ’ 226 7032644. s outdoor fplio t 229 7027 ú t – – í o,N lou,

andthe and 275 20 t Places 226 50 É á gina fplio – from waterfront. thewestern It skillet) dishes. fare suchas fare (snails) andotherimaginative splashing out. Mitterrand andSirPeterMitterrand Hall. Fran Papandreous, the of MelinaMercouri, the wall testifytothepatronage kl,Ang Skala, Mandraki Epidauros Taverna Leonides Busy taverna serving P Karavolos Ar Karathanasis Naftis Popular withtheyachting set, Douz O Naftis “ draft red wineknown as and arobust cooked dishes oven- withexcellent value, ofbothqualityand in terms One ofthebestinvillage Myk Mykinaiko Í Moita down. that specialevening it For fusiondishes. Mediterranean serves interesting seafoodand from thewaterfront, here aftershows eat the ancienttheatre.Actors at coincides withaperformance bookaheadifyour visit back; spotwithagarden out friendly unfussy grills andhomecooking. unfussy grills terrace seatinginsummer. terrace meat dishesyear round androof- andassorted alongside draftwine soups inthecoolermonths, dhra ó Blood ofHercules á ros hova í e,Mycenae nes, í a6,P na 66, t t has a varied menu of has avaried 229 8052020. 2 02 5.Eves only. 229 8026158. t í t 226 7031360. stri. 275 2022115. ó sagan Moderately priced ros t ’ t s signposted – á 229 8023096. 275 1076724. ç ki photoson ois ” Just inland (small Moita karav ’ to wash it Filling s worth A ó los PLACES Further afield s a 151 ’ s ’ 275 20 hova, á t A cosy and This popular fplio 226 50 83 250. á during the é t

í dishes. 24, N stands out á – 226 70 32 730. lou 20 Vasilis t ú In a street where most of most where In a street 229 80 52 886. 229 80 53 615. mayireft t t kopo hova ï á dhra dhra taverna, about 500m inland the port,from on its has tables veranda. and a small roof Serves great home cooking and the pasta and vegetarian dishes are excellent value. 25 334. small wine list, service attentive and pleasant ambience. Yambeia Ar bar-restaurant Moderate-value Ar of on the main street operating as a caf morning.The Italian- dishes are influenced dishes, and there Yeitoniko Í Apollonos 31, Dhelf One of the better quality not in a village establishments for known particularly well great eateries.The from view this family is quite place stunning, and the food is good- quality traditional fare that euros. for your value reasonable Xeri Elia Í dishes) and the frieddishes) calamari is done. also well Vasilis Sta Vakchos relatively inexpensive fish inexpensive relatively in an old stone house taverna twist on that puts an inventive filling the establishments serve similar serve the establishments menus, of its the freshness through reasonably ingredients.Very priced, too. á a – has a Places mayireft as well as as well A 229 70 23 Oasis place 275 20 28 Platanos t High up One of the t s fish ’ dhes gina é fplio s worth the walk s worth ros port from a port from ros É ’ (olive-oil-based á hova, with fine, ros, the mezedes ó á It á ó mez la. stri. á í gina Town 226 70 32 735. ladher É t nas 73, N 229 80 24 249. 229 80 22 955. í t t A small A good spot for home- khi, Ang ó hova ros ros á Contents ó ó 818. good-value lambgood-value dishes, home- and rich bread chicken baked soup. I Taverna tou Stelara Taverna I Bouboul Panayioti Irioti 34, Panayioti To Steki To Platanos P Taverna Parnassos Parnassos Taverna Met Panagiota Ar Oasis P grills, fish and cooked cooked longer-established harboursidelonger-established on P tavernas moderately expensive expensive moderately regular and faithfulregular clientele of its good indication cooking. commitment to quality overlooking P overlooking hosting a clutch of little square tavernas, less obvious specializes in meat dishes, and a can dine in the shade of you large plane tree. friendly, family-style taverna Ar high above behind market, to with inexpensive moderate prices.The grilled octopus is particularly good. up the hill for the views and the and up the hill for the views good food here. Dine on 910. a relaxing location. a relaxing and enjoy the relaxing view down view the relaxing and enjoy Sk towards 152

Contents Places Accommodation Accommodation Contents Accommodation

Accommodation Contents 155

Hotels ACCOMMODATION

Prices for accommodation are sites; hotels here are also relatively highly seasonal and in the lead- expensive, however, and may be up to the Olympics well over noisy.Formerly gritty and sleazy half the city’s hotels seemed to but rapidly being gentrified, have been refurbished, raising Omónia’s bazaar area is the city their rates accordingly.The prices at its most colourful, while nearby quoted in this guide represent Thissío is rather smarter and the hotel’s cheapest double room airier. For more night-time peace, Hotels in high season; much of the year, and better value, though, there’s a you’ll find rates are lower than lot to be said for heading for one this. By law,every room has to of the quieter neighbourhoods a display its official rates on the little further out. Koukáki and back of the door: it is illegal for a Pangráti are attractive parts of hotelier to charge more than the city,and though slightly out of this, and you can normally the way – twenty minutes’ walk expect to pay less. Most places from Sandagma or the heart of have triple and even four-bed Pláka – compensate with excel- rooms, which can be a significant lent neighbourhood tavernas and saving for a family or group. cafés.Around Exárhia and Platía Breakfast is included in the Viktorías, to the north of price at the more expensive hotels Omónia, you are again out of the and is almost always available at tourist mainstream, but benefit extra cost if it’s not included; from good-value local restaurants check what you’ll get, however, as and the proximity of cinemas, the standard Greek hotel breakfast clubs and bars. of a cup of weak coffee accompa- nied by a piece of dry cake and Pláka some jam is rarely worth paying Acropolis House Kódhrou 6 t210 32 22 for. Most of our recommendations 344, f210 32 44 143. Metro Slndagma. will offer more than that – usually A very clean, well-sited 150-year-old man- some form of bufffet. sion much favoured by students and aca- The quarters of Pláka, demics, who return year after year. Monastiráki and Sbndagma are Furnishings are eclectic and some rooms atmospheric and within easy have private baths across the hall. Rates walking distance of all the main include breakfast. e60.

Booking accommodation Athens hotels can be packed in midsummer, especially August – yet for most of the year there are enough beds in the city to go around, and to suit most wallets and tastes. It makes sense to book in advance if possible, or to find a phone and ring around on arrival, rather than walk the streets looking: almost every hotel and hostel will have an English-speaking receptionist. The best rates may well be offered on the Internet – type “Athens hotels” into any search engine and you’ll come up with dozens of hotel search sites, often with excellent-value special offers. If you do just set out and do the rounds, try to start as early as possible in the day. Especially in the cheaper hotels, standards can vary greatly between rooms, so try to see alternatives before you check in.

Contents Accommodation 156 1 (200m) Larissa Victoria N Station 2 M PLATIA FILADHELFEIAS

ENOUS PLATIA LARISSIS L IOULIANOU I O AIGYPTOU

S US M ) Larissa I O IOULIANOU N

ALKAM

ALKIVIADHOU

LAMBELET AHARNON NEOFYTOU METAXA IPIROU M ETSOVO IPIROU U

Peloponnísou VASILEOS IRAKLIOU

SAMOU CHIOU Station KRITIS MIHAÏL VODHA IOANNINON National L

PSARON I KONSTANDINOU PALEOLOGOU O MARNI Archaeological S I Museum O DHELIYIANNI N 3-SEPTEMVRIOU ARISTOTELOUS 3 MAIZONOS AYER AKOMINATOU

AHARNON STOURNARI M DHELIYIAN National Technical

ACCOMMODATION SOLOMOU University KERAM VÁTHIS PLATIA VATHIS (Polytekhnío) LENORMAN Metaxourghio FAVIEROU KAPODHISTRIOU VICTOR HUGO N M 28-OKTOVRIOU (PATISSION EON I 5 HALKOKONDHYLI 6 MARNI ZAÏMI STIA KAROLOU NES KOLONOU VERANZEROU MYLLEROU PLATIA PLATIA SOKRATOUS KARAISKAKI SATOVRIANDHOU T Hotels KANINGOS

INATOU AYIOU KONSTANDINOUMENANDHROU 7 8 AHILLEOS M Omonia AKOM DHELIYIORYI PLATIA THEMISTOKLEOUS ZINONOS OMONIAS N METAXOURGHÍO EMMANOUIL BENAKI YIATRAKOU 9 FIDHIOU KOLONOU PANEPISTIMIOU KOLOKYNTHOUS OMÓNIA IASONOS 10 STADHIOU ZOODOCHOU PIGIS MEGALOU ALEXANDHROU LYKOURGOU THERMOPYLON Town HARILAOU AKADHIMOU Hall LEONIDHOU AYISILAOU MYLLEROU

PLATIA EOLOU KERAMIKOU SOKRATOUS KOTZIA PIREOS ATHINAS AIO S Athens Stock OU O FOK H Municipal L E O U Exchange National N Art Gallery PLATIA S MENANDHROU Library THEATROU PLATIA Meat & GAZIZI A Seafood ELEFTHERIAS RISTO AYISILAOU EVRIPIDHOU KORAI M U Market

O ASOMATON FAN L Panepistimio Y SARRI H 11 K PLATIA os O U S

OS E P KLAFTHMONOS DHIPYLOU S R 4) A X P I T PLATIA E STADHIOU Kerameikos L IROON 13 EOLOU O U SARRI S National PSYRRÍ KOLOKOTRONI Historical S ERMOU

O Museum

N Thissio O E 14 15 H P M O T ATHINAS 17 T A L HALKO PLATIA 16 S

N Y 27 28 29 S I O T 30 FILELLINON U ANAFIÓTIKA R E I P YI O 31 ASYRMATOS NI D TOU H O Areopagus N PLATIA . S FILOMOUSOU L U Rock Acropolis O Hill of E 32 PLÁKA L the Pnyx Theatre of Herodes Atticus PLATIA Hadrian's Hill of the LYSIKRATOUS Arch L. Nymphs Theatre of 33 ANO Dionysos R O DHIONYSIOU AREOPA V E PETRALONA R T U O U Y I T O 34 MAKRIYIÁNNIAkropoli Temple GARIVALDI New PR EREKHTHIOU G A M L L I Acropolis of Olympian O PY Museum Site AT Zeus HA LE D N Prison of H AS MITSEON IA IO Socrates O KO U N 35 U Filopáppou DHRAKOU N U S O LO I Hill Monument S U N U MARKOU MPOTSARI PO E of Philopappos O O M M U AK G O R A 37 IK T V I 36 V E I O L IM U U H R O D V KA U A V

O H S REA

LA 38 39 I O

O I S R IK R O O

0 300 m U N I R F

TZAMI KARATASI O L O L E

EIK Syngrou–Fix M LEOFOROSA ANDHREA SYNGROU L 41 V K U K FILOPAPPOU KOUKAKIZ Contents Accommodation 157

Pedhio ACCOMMODATION Areos Lofos

Finopoulou ACCOMMODATION LOMVARDOU Achilleas 17 John’s PlaceGYZI 22 AHILLEOS PARASKHOU Acropolis House 28 Kimon 25 LEOFOROS ALEXANBOUSGOU Acropolis SelectLOMVARDOU38 KourosMOMFERRATOU 30 DHRAS Acropolis View 34 Marble House 41 LOMVARDOU

LA Adonis KALLIGA 29 Museum Best SOUTSOU ASIMAKI FOTILA A AHILLEOS PARASKHOU V The Alassia ANASTASIOU7 Western 3 VARVAKI AVEROF U ÁREOSVOULGAROKTONOU N O U ArethusaPLATIA ARGENTINIS 21 Nefeli O 27 IA K GYZI STIN IOU IOU DIMOKRATIAS U PANAYIOTARA Art Gallery 37 Orion and Dryades O 4 KYRILLOU LOUKARE POULHERIAS Athenian Callirhoe 39 FANARIOTONPella Inn B 14 Lófos tou Stréfi Athens Cypria 19 Phaedra 32IEREM LAM KALLIDHROMIOU(Stréfis Hill) Attalos 13 PhilipposASKLIPIOU BROU 35 KATSON 4 Byron HARILAOU TRIKOUPI33 St George Lycabettus 12 I E R MAVROMIHALI ES Cecil 11 PLATIAStratos Vassilikos 20 IKONOMOU S NEAPOLEOS O SPYRIDHONOS TRIKOUPI Dorian Inn IPPOKRATOUS10 Student’s Inn 31 U Hotels PLATIA Erechthion 23 Tempi 15 EXARHION Evropi ASKLIPIOUDHAM Thisseus Hostel ZOODOCHOU PIGIS ASKINOU8 16 Exarchion KOSM 6 Thission 24 EXÁRHIA IHALI Feron A MELODHOU2 Villa Olympia 36 KONIARI HARILAOUAVROM TRIKOUPI Grande Bretagne 18 YHA Victor Hugo 5 T ERESSOU M Z A Hermes 26 Youth Hostel 5 40 V ARAHOVIS E LLA IPPOKRATOUS HostelNEÁPOLI Aphrodite 1 Zinon 9

DHIDHOTOU ASKLIPIOU PATRIARHOU FOTIOU NAVARINOU Lykavitós TRIKOUPI Theatre SOLONOS U O I H KONIARI A P Lykavitós IN A S T Hill N H ERSON A R Funicular Theatrical A S Railway ASKLIPIOU OS A ATHINEON EFIVON Museum ÏDH A HO R A IS K SKOUFA A TO D H ASSALIAS A D DHINOKRATOUS IM M PLATIA H IN IM S LYKAVITTOU MARASLI IA FOKYLIDHOU S O Yennádhion Academy U DEXAMENI ARISTIPPOU PLATIA Library of Science DANTE M SKOUFA IOANNOU YENNADIOU AKADHIMIAS 12 ON Mou DHINOKRATOUS SOUIDHIAS M U SOLONOS EVZON IRO LYKAVITTOU O M N PANEPISTIMIOUO PLATIA KOLONÁKI IS DEXAMENIS PE SPEFSIPPOULOUKIANOU M T PLO AMERIKIS ALOPEKIS RAVINE R A Numismatic PINDHAROU A R K A I ILISIA Museum U S PATRIARHOU IOAKIM TA LI PLATIA IR KANARI R KOLONAKIOU O IPSILANDOU H D PLATIA < (PLATIA FILIKÍS O S NDAGMA H KARNEADHOU MEGALISTOU U Benáki ETERÍAS) O GENOUS SCHOLIS 18 Museum TO Evangelismos VASILISSIS MERLINSOFIAS U IPSILANDOU M LEOFOROS VASSILEOS M

Syndagma Parliament Goulandhrís VASILISSIS SOFIASWar ALEXANDHROU 20 U (1km) Building Museum Museum O National S of Cycladic & Byzantine & INGallery of Art A D I Ancient Greek Art Christian N L & Aléxandros DH A LYKIOU TA Museum S Soútzos Museum M N A A O N D INO RO National Presidential K S S RIYILLIS S I Gardens Palace O R S LEOFOROS VASSILEOS YEORYIOU B IZA IS ILE EFFRONIOU L S I RI S PLATIA S A A V SKOUZE V

S ANOS O A M Y N D A ARHELAOU R PAFSANIOU SPYROU MERKOURI O TIN Záppio F O U O N IA LE R PRA A R IRODHOU ATTIKOU

ASTYDHAM THEAYENOUS Zappeion ERA ARKTINOU VASILISSIS OLGAS DHIOFANDOU FO Gardens TO PANGRÁTI STH R STRAVONOS M Alsos I PLATIA EN STADHIOU O Pangratiou U OU S PLATIA TIN MESOLON– IPPODHAMOU Panathenaic GIOU PRA

ZINODHOTOU Stadium PLATIA SPYROU MERKOURI MARKOU MOUSOUROUArdhittós PLASTIRA PLATIA EVTYHIDHOU EFFRANOROS ARDITTOUI G A Hill PAGKRATIOU . P M FRYN IMITTOU

ANAPAFSEOSARISTONIKOU PROFITISPR STRATIGOUMETS DOMBOLI IDHOUS IS KHREMONIDHOU FILILIAS ARHIMSTADIO PROKLOU DHAMAREOS

VRYAXIDHOS DHIKEARHOUPARMENID MELISSOU PLATIA EVYENIOU VOULGAREOS O U PLATIA PROFITI ILIA IFIKRA TRIVONIANOU VARNAVA 40 First Cemetery FILOLAOU of Athens STILPONOS EDHESIOU IMITTOU DHAMAREOSPROFITIS

DH AL Contents Accommodation Hotels ACCOMMODATION Dorms Internet facilitiesopento non-residents. withasmallcourtyard and nice otherwise, but Notthequietestlocation, dorm beds. aswell are sometriplesandquadruples, andthere All roomshaveen-suitebaths, recentlyrenovatedandpainted. and hostel, lished travellers’hauntisamixtureofhotel .com 32 44808, Student’s Inn a/c. rooms butallhave TV and Thecheaperroomssharebath- ment. welcomingmanage- withpolite, streets, location atthejunctionoftwopedestrian thankstoits Quietatnight, Pláka. place that’s oneofthebestdeals in t Byron h cooi n lk uem,the the Acropolis andPlákamuseums, a quietsidestreetwithinwalkingdistanceof oen low-rise modern, atmospheric 431. MetroS Metro Akr Phaedra two days. Discount for staysofmorethan mixed. canbe some noiseatnightandservice though thelowerfloorsdosufferfrom faded roomsallcomewith TV anda/c, Comfortably actually atHatzimiháli2. entrance ofthismodern-lookinghotelis f Nefeli Voulís. thecontinuationof pedestrianized street, Somebalconiesoverlookthe ter value. Doubles areoverpricedbutsinglesbet- sharedbathsandsinksinrooms. facilities: f included. Acropolis andcentral Athens; breakfast The rooftopcaféhasastunningviewofthe from f Kouros e rooms haveimpressive Acropolis views. Afewupper with a/cand TV ineachroom. attractivelyrenovated is afairlybasicplace, Adonis 158 80. Contents 210 3231602.MetroS 210 3227795, 210 3225800.MetroS 210 3220276.Metro Akr e . Metro Akr Acropolis House Acropolis 50. e e Iper V K l K 60. 22,rooms 22–25, e ó ronos 19 Heref ó e ó dhrou 3 ho 1 Pl dhrou 11, í 60. w poli. dhou 16 80. pension l www.studenttravellersinn ndagma. Kydhathin ó ó pension ds1,cnr Adhriano ndos 16, ipe newlyrenovated Simple, poli. f t t butwithadequate , withsomesuites. , 210 3238461. t 210 3253554, 210 3249737, This long-estab- e á 210 3228044, A slightlyfaded ka across thestreet 60. é l on 16 l ndagma. t ó ndagma. poli. 210 3227 Accommodation t Set on 210 Byron A The ú Kimon Pella Inn handy affiliated travelagency. plusa fridge, drinks, a bookexchange, There’s also distance ofmostcentral sights. andit’s withinwalking way isenchanting, Ayía Iríniacrossthequietpedestrianwalk- Buttheviewofflowermarketat sparse. andhotwatercanbe have sharedfacilities, most Theroomsaretiny, budget travellers. Monastir e Tempi ground floor. and there’s acheaprestauranton the It’s cleanandinexpensivehowever, rooms. has ratherdarkroomsandsharedbath- thisbasichotel backstreet ofMitrópoleos, 719. MetroS John’s Place price. breakfast includedintheratherinflated andaheartybuffet newly decoratedrooms, well-equipped, withcomfortable, hotel, S e Hermes sive roomshave Acropolis views. Very closetoS ports –andgoodvalueforwhatyouget. data mini-bar, satellite TV, the luxuries–a/c, butwithall moderntouristhotel, Standard, 034, Athens Cypria w rooms havestunning Acropolis views. Afewoftheupper clean with TV anda/c. recently upgradedroomsherearespotlessly Metro S ae weatherpermitting. race, ontheroofter- served Breakfastis and TV. rooms havebeenrenovatedanda/c All location onarelativelyquietstreet. S third floorup. startling viewsofthe Acropolis fromthe hotel hasenthusiasticmanagementand thisfamily-run of thebestdealsinarea, w Achilleas Psyrr Monastir l l www.pella-inn.gr www.achilleashotel.gr [email protected]. Metro [email protected]. Metro ndagma. ndagma. f e 210 3248792.MetroS Ap E l 120. ndagma. ó á Ap í ó lou 29 ki. Ermo L llonos 27 é ó Conveniently locatedtwo-star Three-star hotelinacentral e kka 21 llonos 19 l A favouritewithstudentsand e j ndagma. 40. Patr dga Themoreexpen- ndagma. Dhiom 95. ú á 104 t ipepae butthe A simpleplace, óö ki and 210 3213175, . Metro Thiss t t u 5 í t as 5 210 3233197, t & In apeaceful 210 3250598, e . Metro t 210 3235514, f 140. 210 3229 210 3314658. t e 210 3238 55. l e ndagma. í 100. o. o. e 60. One ACCOMMODATION Hotels 95. a í 210 e a 80. 210 í 159 nia. 210 52 t ó e as. t í nas 16 ki. . Metro í . t á pension as nia poli í 100. ó á 210 38 03 A small, sim- e 95. 210 52 23 a Omon f nonos í e í Bouboul as and handy for as. t í í ous 55, Plat . Metro Om é a Viktor Recently taken over í 110. Big 1960s high-rise Very basic old- basic Very www.bestwestern 210 32 17 079, 210 32 e w t nia. o. 3 and Z s 15-17, Om í a Omon nia. ó í nia. ú ó ndhou 7 . Metro Monastir . Metro ó ó á www.greekhotel s 39 Pire Themistokl á w 210 38 01 256, www.bestwestern.com rron 43, Plat A comfortable, reasonably priced, 160. though this means the rooms on é t w Satovri – F rhia and Ne Keramiko e Athin as. Good-sized rooms have been í . Metro Om nia. á rhia ó á 210 38 05 611, www.cecil.gr 35. the Acropolis,the this is a bustling hotel popular tourists.with both business visitors and The excellent rooftop garden boasts a pool and views. hotel, with an excellent location right on the square the lower floors can be noisy. .com Ex Exarchion Ex 296. Metro Om Museum Best Western t has re-created the charm of the 150-year- has re-created the decorated rooms old mansion; attractively and all have a/c. are larger than average heart of the market dis- The location in the trict, gracious management, roof garden with Cretan jams and and hearty breakfast a delight. yogurt make this Dorian Inn .com/athens/dorianinn close to Plat Very e Feron 523 9782, Evropi by the Best Western group and upgraded to group and Western by the Best its international standards, this nicely placed hotel is at the end of the green strip sepa- Archeological Museum rating the National and the Polytekhn ple hotel with cheerful staff and en-suite baths in all rooms. good value Very Zinon 82 32 083. Metro Viktor 82 32 083. Metro 45 711, 081. Metro Om Cecil fashioned hotel with spacious rooms, made even cooler by ceiling fans. Best-value sin- gles in town and reasonably quiet, despite being only a block from Plat Om Loving restoration of a run-down of a run-down Loving restoration w three-star Best Western hotel just off Plat Western three-star Best Omon recently renovated, and come with satellite TV and a complimentary bottle of wine. o. í A 210 ki. t o. no á t get í 23, ’ Á e 210 34 Accommodation nia 210 32 Renovated ó t t 210 34 59 . Metro three blocks – t You don You nia. ó as and os 10 210 32 12 801, vlou 25 í é ou 8 ka, and a very simi- rdhou 12,rdhou cnr á í t á zi and á 210 88 39 249, nor much cheaper. No tous 50, Om In t á – . Metro Monastir á ndagma. ndagma. Thiss in Pl lou P l s 29 ó á . Metro Om 80. www.the 30. 95. Sokr Flammar e w s Inn e E o, G ’

dha 65 210 34 62 756. Metro Thiss 210 34 62 756. Metro Under the same management as use, and some three- and four- lona , this friendly place has a/c and í ndagma 100. Apost ’ ó Athin 17, bed in two-bed dorm j 40. a Omon f e á

í 210 34 62 756. Metro Thiss 210 34 62 756. Metro e l V e as.

ï í f

Student www.attalos.gr www.hostelaphrodite.com Contents 120. around bed dorms. frills, enough, but clean and with a kitchen for guests west of S 45 960. Metro S 45 960. this central than much more lar set-up. Friendly and clean, with a/c and hot water in shared bathrooms, safe, free baggage storage and Internet access. Dorms the Attalos Somewhat better value than the nearby Somewhat better value than the Plat Mikha Viktor alassia.com.gr Erechthion 67 634, 52 74 000, in 2002,Alassia is a pleasant find in the what is still a rather undeveloped accommodation area.is apparent Its designer decor as soon as you enter the lobby. Rooms are on the small side, but are elegant and well sound-insulated. Good value for money. e Hostel Aphrodite w

Erechthion Thiss Petr 606, this lively reasonable mid-range option in Acropolis.area behind the All rooms have TV. a/c and Thission Thisseus Hostel Thisseus TV in all rooms, and fine views from the roof terrace. rooms Modern hotel with clean, comfortable TV,rooms with a/c and friendly manage- Acropolis views from the ment and great rooftop bar. w The Alassia Hotels ACCOMMODATION Hill Stratos Vassilikos and TV. Plat Grande Bretagne considering theexcellentlocation. andratesquitereasonable and enthusiastic, Thereceptionstaffare helpful small groups. room caterstoindependenttravellersand quiethotelwitha/cand TV ineach ern, travelling.gr. MetroS t Arethusa around S .sglycabettus.gr Kolon St GeorgeLycabettus Kolon rooms inthe All with anamazingviewofcentral Athens. andcommunalareaontheroof kitchen, Orion 36 27362, Orion andDryades 160 embassy. connections fromitslocationneartheUS Goodmetroandbus and evenatinygym. marblebathrooms, Internet intherooms, the facilitiesyou newlyrenovatedandwith all comfortable, butvery Predominantly abusinesshotel, .airotel.gr Il 114, view, welcome rooftoppool. marble andleatherinthepublicareasplusa there up inboutique-hotelstyle, S high uponLykavitos hilloverlooking the StGeorgehasoneofbestlocations, One oftheclassicfive-starhotelsin Athens, Receptionisinthecheaper uphill walk. across fromtheL Metro Om else is paying, try togetthem toputyouup try else ispaying, w j www.grandebretagne.gr Contents 210 3229431, dgaadteArpls Tasetfully done ndagma andthe Acropolis. o í a S ndagma and hc a hrdbtros a whichhassharedbathrooms, , e á í sia ki 220 lookingoutonthe Acropolis. e l ndagma e t 110. . MetroM ó t Mitrop á nia. 170. 210 7290711, e 210 7706611, Dryades ki &Lykavit [email protected]. ’ ue,well-runtwinhotels Quiet, xet including TV and d expect, . MetroEvangelism ó ó t fos Str e leos 6 Vasil é Michalak 210 3330000, arethusa@ Anexartis garo Moussik are ensuitewitha/c e l ndagma. 145 forcourtyard é Kleom é – os Yiory fi park 8 andN . w If someone w ó www ’ é s abundant poulou í www as 5 nous 2, – This mod- Accommodation í e asteep ou 1, í kis 12 í 120. ó s. ó t s. s 210 Acropolis View modem ports. satellite TV and individually controlleda/c, whichhave acterize thewelcomingrooms, Pastelandearthyshades char- the Acropolis. ed boutiquehotelwithintenminutes Syngro Athenian Callirhoe t 11 611, offers. Worth checkingfor leisure travellersalike. gym TV andInternetintherooms andasmall located andhasgoodfacilities butiscentrally ing tolookslightlyfaded, upmarket made overacoupleofyearsbackasan Petmeza even foranoff-seasonspecialoffer. night atmosthotels Treatments inthespacostmorethana conceivablefacility. withevery nificent, itreallyismag- Recentlyrefurbished, town. Athens Acropolis view. onasunnyterracewith cost) served andabountifulbreakfast(atextra metro, ient locationjustashortwalkfromthe aconven- knowledgeable andhelpfulstaff, buttheplaceisdistinguishedby plain, Roomsare original artworksonthewalls. .gr Acropolis Select Kouk Pangr Mets, Kouk Metro Syngro Art Gallery e included andthelobbysportsafriendlybar. anamplebreakfastis TVandfridge, a/c, Allroomshave garden liveuptoitsname. whose frontroomswithbalconiesandroof small hotelonaquietresidentialstreet at the Syngro 92 38376, y thispopular ly, the homeofamemberowner 130. 210 9217303, . Metro Akr á – iadtecnr,the ki andthecentre, makingitpopularwith business and Grande Bretagne Grande ’ e ú hotelswiththefinestlocationin ú w -Fix. -Fix. 180. á t “ www.acropoliselect.gr designer e 210 9215353, ki Erekhth neclet tastefullyrenovat- An excellent, e A mansionthatwasformerly [email protected]. Metro ú ó pension e -Fix. poli. 125. 70. ese 0 Kouk Webster 10, Fal w ” – www.acropolisview oe.It hotel. A well-maintained í Situated between í roomsareover Kallir u5 Kouk ou 5, rou 37 thegrandestofall , is namedforthe á ti and ó Callirhoe ’ s3,cnr is 32, – s alreadystart- w 39 – www.tac.gr including á t . Metro ki ’ walkof 210 92 e ’ á s fami- t was ki e 400. 210 300 . ACCOMMODATION Hotels 161 á See . Upscale, 210 41 73 500. s every . ’ A dozen – t . 50, but dis- www 220. s á e 200 e w e lis 1, Kifissi 110. é www.kefalari vlou 105, Kastella, e á w Pend If you have a late ferry os P rous 7, Pire . é á See map on p.127 mano. Satellite TV, data ports í . See map on p.126 210 41 17 150, . Vasil Leoh www.4peiraias.gr/delfini t s w á 210 62 33 333, complex occupies some 75 acres of a pri- occupies some complex peninsula,vate pine-covered from 25km downtown.villas, hotels and It has three with pools, private beaches, water sports, tennis courts, fewer than six a health club and no restaurants. to A shuttle bus runs twice daily the weather prevents Athens (in case central and there you using the helipad) other conceivable facility including a major other conceivable spa.thalassotherapy From Delfini 110, map on p.127 a func- arrival or early departure and want tional, convenient hotel, this is it. Tiny rooms, but each is nicely done out with some fridge and balcony; there are also multi-bed rooms available. counts if you show this book. Suites Kefalari rather bland hotel, but undeniably comfortable and with fine sea views, looking out over Mikrol and many other facilities in the rooms. Much better value than similar quality places in the centre. suites.gr t extremely luxurious suites, each with its everyown decorative theme and with facility you might want. A very the long way from Athens. bustle of central .mistral.gr Mistral Pire - ú . 210 210 s a ’ nni í t t nos 40, ki, with a ó Accommodation ki resort á See map á nni . 210 41 73 á t Apoll s often full, so ’ s 20. á e 6, Kouk á 60. Astir Palace e on 3, Makryi A small yet comfortable 210 92 34 058, 210 92 The Cul-de-sac off A. Z off Cul-de-sac 210 89 02 000, é Karatz . 45. www.philipposhotel.gr t nari 7, Pire t e ú w Officially designated for long ki poli. Mits ni á Perhaps the pick of the hotels in ó Go é . s port area, this newly renovated

á www.acropole-hotel.gr 195. w Easily the best value in Kouk Easily the best value e

[email protected]. Metro Syngro Metro [email protected]. Contents www.astir.gr Vouliagm w place has a variety of rooms including triples; some with Jacuzzi. Breakfast room and bar downstairs. 313, on p.127 the Pire

Astir Palace Vouliagmeni Astir Palace Suburban Athens Acropole Marble House Marble call ahead. a/c (for Eight of the rooms have rooms have a bath,extra charge); most and self-catering studios for there are also two longer stays. Philippos 35A, Kouk e Fix. very helpful management. It 922 36111, Metro Akr Villa Olympia Villa large atrium for breakfast or afternoon cof- large atrium for breakfast or afternoon fee. modern hotel located conveniently on the modern hotel located conveniently Acropolis.southeast side of the There 92 37 650. stays only, rudimentary the no-frills rooms a daily are often available to tourists on basis in this ramshackle old house, run by an Englishwoman. Basic, but by far the cheapest place in town. Hostels and campsites ACCOMMODATION Campsites f YHA this isthecase rooms.We offerbedsinshared however, cheaper hotelslistedabove, Several ofthe recognized. one oftheseisofficially andonly ashostels, be described places in Athens thatcanstrictly There are onlyacoupleof Hostels 162 more centrally located. but generally than thesehostels, significantly more expensive ahead inseasontobookspace. Phone camper van topark. worth usingifyou have a cheap the suburbs andnotespecially Athens Camping The city 198 n lnyo o ae.Take theElefs and plentyofhotwater. snack-bar Facilities includeaminimarket, re-opened afterarevamp. Athens, The closestcampsitetothecentreof bus #A16fromPlat Contents 210 5234015.MetroMetaxourgh – Victor Hugo16 200 – t they ’ s 210 5814114. ’ campsites ve specifiedwhere ’ re onlyreally Leof í – a Eleftherias. they t ó 210 5234170, ros Athin ’ re are outin Accommodation ó n í na í o. #A3 or#E2from Amal Bus barandrestaurant. swimming pool, witha some 20kmsouthofthecentre, Beachfront locationjustoffthemainroad, ol Take bus#A7fromPlat pool. Kifissi leafysuburbofN Located inthecool, Between thetrainstationsandOm #115 or#116to V V #528 tothestopclosecampsite. metro toKifissi Camping NeaKifissia Dorms Trolleys #2and#11passnearby. curfew. andhasno friendly, isvery neighbourhood, behind agreendoorislocatedinquiet butthisprivatehostel A bitoutoftheway, 75 19530, near thehugeProf Youth Hostel#5 you Annualmembershipcosts store. includesacaf the edges, althoughalittlefrayed at informativeand, ly, only officialyouthhostelin Athens isfriend- de otecs fabd Dorms added tothecostofabed. á rkiza Camping ’ re notamember á , with a very welcomeswimming withavery , e 9. e [email protected]. á andtransferontobus Damar á rkiza. t í tis Il e 210 8973614. í as toGlyf 2.50 perdayis t é é í as church andleft-luggage s7,Pangr os 75, 210 8075579. í a K á á e dha then ningos or ó 15; if e i,the nia, 8. t é a 210 á ti, Essentials Essentials Contents Essentials

Essentials Contents 165 Arrival

A new airport and substantial investment coastal suburbs of Voúla and Glyfádha; the ESSENTIALS in transport links have transformed #E92 (roughly every 45min 9am–9pm, arriving in Athens. The airport is linked to every 90min 10.30pm–8am) to the the city by bus, metro and a fast northern suburb of Kifissiá; #E93 (roughly expressway, while plenty of taxis and city every 35min 6am–midinght, hourly buses service Pireás for those arriving by midnight–6am) to Kifisós intercity bus boat. Even driving in is relatively station; and #E97 (every 45–50min straightforward thanks to the new 6am–6pm, every 60min 7pm–5am) to Arrival expressways. Dháfni metro station. All these services cost e2.90, and the ticket (an imerísio) is By air valid on all Athens public transport for 24 Athens’ modernistic Eleftherios Venize- hours. They should be bought from a booth los airport (wwww.aia.gr) lies some beside the stops, or, if this is closed, can be 26km east of the city. Facilities are excel- purchased on the bus: make sure you have lent, with ample money-changing small change. You need to validate the bureaux, two American Express offices ticket once on the airport bus, and again and several ATMs. Luggage-storage facili- for your first trip on the metro or city bus. ties are open round the clock, as are the When departing, it’s worth buying your shops, newsstands, cafés, a food court ticket, available from any city metro station, and fast-food restaurants. There’s also an 24 hours in advance, to have a day’s free official EOT tourist office (daily use of the transport system as well as your 8am–10pm; t210 35 45 101). It’s worth journey to the airport. calling in here to pick up their excellent Getting into Athens by taxi is also pretty map, and up-to-date information on swift. You can get to the city centre via the museum and site opening hours. Attikí Odhós Expressway and the Ymittós Public transport from the airport is in a Ring Road in less than thirty minutes at state of flux, so it’s worth picking up the slow traffic times and in under an hour at latest leaflet on the situation, widely peak times. The Attikí Odhós Expressway available at the airport. From summer also links the airport with a large swathe of 2004, metro line 3 should extend to northern Athens and runs right around the Dhoukíssis Plakentías station, from where city as far as Elefsína. A taxi fare is rough- e metro trains will share the suburban rail ly 12–15 to central Athens or Pireás. lines to the airport. With around four trains Before setting out in a taxi, make sure that an hour, this should be the most the meter is switched on to the correct convenient way into the centre. rate (see taxis, p.167), but note that there Alternatively, express bus #E95 (approx are numerous legitimate extras for airport every 20min midnight–7am, every 30min journeys, luggage etc. 7am–7pm, every 15min 7pm–midnight; 70min) runs to Sjndagma Square in the By ferry centre of town via Ethnikí Ámyna metro The simplest way to get to Athens from station; #E94 (every 10min 7am–7pm, Pireás is by metro. Trains run from 6am less frequently till midnight) goes to Ethnikí to midnight. For the airport, take express Ámyna only. The journey is quicker if you bus #E96 (every 20min 7am–9pm, every change to the metro at Ethnikí Ámyna, but 40min 9pm–7am). Taxis between Pireás this is not easy if you’ve got a lot of and central Athens should cost around luggage. Again, bus routes may change as e8, including baggage: getting a taxi a result of the extension of the metro. when a ferry arrives is no easy matter, Others are #E96 (every 20min 7am–9pm, though – you’ll need to be pushy, and every 40min 9pm–7am) to Pireás via the almost certainly have to share.

Contents Essentials 166 City transport

Athens is served by slow but wide- The metro ranging buses, a curiously anachronistic The Athens metro (wwww.ametro.gr) has but effective trolley bus network and a been much expanded in recent years, fast metro system which is currently undergoing massive expansion; taxis fill in with the long-awaited addition of two the gaps. As well as the metro/rail link to completely new lines and a couple of new stops added to the original Line 1. ESSENTIALS the airport, there are two new tram lines: one following the line of Leofóros Syngroú The system is a huge success: designed from the centre to Fáliro on the coast near to handle almost half a million passen- Pireás; the other running from Fáliro gers a day, it is fast, quiet and user-friendly. The stations are often

Arrival through the seaside suburbs to Glyfádha. Public transport networks operate from attractions in their own right – displaying around 5am to midnight, with only the air- artefacts discovered in their excavation port buses running in the small hours. You and other items of local interest. need to buy a ticket from a street kiosk or Further extensions to lines 2 and 3 are metro station before you travel. underway, and likely to open in stages A good website to start your planning is over the next few years. Meanwhile, Line wwww.oasa.gr/uk/index_gr.asp,an1 (green) runs from Pireás in the south to English version of the official Greek Athens Kifissiá in the north; useful stops in the Urban Transport Organisation website. centre include Thissío, Monastiráki,

Tickets and passes Athens’ public transport is good value, especially with judicious use of the various passes available. While most of the major sites are within walking distance of each other, the expansion of the metro means that it often makes more sense to jump on a train to go from, say, Omónia to Skndagma, than sweating it out on the streets. If you can figure out the bus and trolley system, it’s even cheaper to use them instead. The easiest and, for most visitors, best-value ticket is the 24-hour imerísio. This costs E2.90 and can be used on all buses, trolleybuses and the metro, as well as for a single trip to the airport. You validate it once, on starting your first journey, and it is valid for 24 hours from then – cancel it again if you take the airport bus. The ticket can be bought from any metro ticket office and many places where bus tickets are sold (see below) – you can buy several at once and then cancel them as necessary. There’s also a monthly pass for e35, or E17.50 for buses only. Otherwise, individual metro tickets cost e0.60 on Line 1 for journeys within two of its three zones (this will get you from the centre to either end of the line), e0.70 for any other journey (valid for ninety minutes from validation, for travel in one direction – ie you can change lines, but you can’t go somewhere and come back). They’re available from machines and ticket offices in any metro station, and must be validated before you start your journey, in the machines at the top of the stairs. Bus tickets cost e0.45 and must be bought in advance from kiosks, certain shops and newsagents, or from the limited number of booths run by bus personnel near major stops – look for the brown, red and white logo proclaiming Isitíria edhó (tickets here). They’re sold individually or in bundles of ten, and must be cancelled in a special machine when boarding. Cancelled tickets apply only to a particular journey and vehicle; there are no transfers. On both bus and metro, fare-dodgers risk an on-the-spot fine equivalent to forty times the current fare.

Contents Essentials ESSENTIALS City Transport s – ’ not “ 1.50. 167 s charm use of ’ “ e – s. A threat 8 from the á (some older – 6 ” T is switched on e ndagma, or get “ j s á cabs are still among ’ meter have a rather dodgy repu- have a rather 15 and Pire justifiable to a point in a city justifiable to a – taxis 3,a journey to the airport with , find another taxi. – for re-education, but few locals ” due more to the cavalier attitude due more to the e 12 around the city centre rarely run around the city centre rarely ” – e 1.50 surcharge to the fare). They are That said, Athens Make sure the Attempts at overcharging tourists are Taxis Athenian tation of the drivers than to the cars them- of the drivers selves. capricious Drivers are notoriously take you only where they and will often than to your exact des- want to go rather tination A to B can take up to where getting from a couple of hours, but not helpful for foreign visitors. speak English, Few drivers despite an many still smoke in the cab official ban, and an unscrupulous minori- ty will rip you off mercilessly. Prior to the 2004 Olympics,Athenian taxi drivers all were supposed to have attended school expected to notice much change. capital the cheapest of any European fares above only centre. The exact amount is determined by the pickup point and the amount of luggage, with a minimum fare of your hotel to phone one for you (adding a e most elusive during rush hours, or when it rains. All officially licensed cabs are yellow, with a special black-on-yellow number plate beginning with the letter red-on-white plates are also still in circu- lation). can wave them down on the You street, pick them up from ranks at the train stations, airport or the National Gar- dens on the corner of S when you get in, with its display visible and properly zeroed. no fixed- There are Athens price rides in and around the meter is compulsory, so if it working to have hotel staff or the tourist police adjudicate usually elicits co-operation, as they will very likely take your side and the police have the power to revoke a driver operating permit. In case of a dispute, particularly common with small-hours arrivals at the airport and Pire ” s – ’ for nia ssis ó í (blue) ndag- 3pm), green j “ – network, Essentials poli at the (red) runs ó nia, S section of #5 and #12, ó – Line 3 ki northeast to ” á re also equipped Line 2 ’ , serving hundreds s not always obvious ’ fni, central stops with trolley bus as. í á it ndagma with Om j – 8.30am & 1.30 ki; and #2 – á ndagma and Akr and ndagma j ve detailed them in the text, ’ myna and to Dhouk myna and to lia to Dh Á ó on. Where other buses are con- bus network í as, from with trains continuing

Going Places í nia, S .

’ í “ ó nia and Viktor nia and sis train station with Om ó í www.oasa.gr/uk/index_gr.asp The bad news is that the system is Among the handiest of the trolley bus Contents Plakent suburban rail lines to the there via new airport Ethnik foot of the Acropolis. foot of the Monastir extends from long since disappeared from the streets long since disappeared from of most cities in Europe. The original yesteryearRussian-made trolley buses of by modern have almost all been replaced and more comfortable air-conditioned versions. as their primary Using electricity source of power, they which bus to take or where to catch it ma and Kouk at Om and that buses can be very crowded at peak times (7 w vehicles running off natural gas. There Athens pretty confusing Buses and trolleys with diesel engines to manoeuvre around traffic problems. routes are the #1, which connects the Lar Om from Sep also a substantial unbearably hot in summer traffic jams, and chronically plagued by strikes and slow-downs; walking is often a better option, the city centre. particularly in which all link S details of all transport options to just Athens. about anywhere in of routes from the centre out into the of routes from the centre out straggling suburbs and beyond, has also investment benefitted from much-needed now boasts over recent years and the city a fleet of modern, comfortable buses, of including a growing number venient, we and the National Archeological Museum and the National on Patis and most bus stops now show the routes of the main services using them. Check the 168 make an obvious written note of the vehi- seem to extend for a week or two either cle’s number plate details. side of the actual date. Every taxi must have a dash-mounted To help make ends meet on govern- plastic placard listing regular rates and ment-regulated fare limits, taxi-drivers extra charges in English and Greek. often pick up extra passengers along the Legitimate surcharges can considerably way. There is no fare-sharing: each pas- bump up the final bill from the total senger or group of passengers pays the full shown on the meter. These include extra fare for their journey. So if you’re picked up charges for journeys to or from the air- by an already-occupied taxi, memorize the port and train or ferry terminals, and for meter reading at once; you’ll pay from that

ESSENTIALS each piece of luggage over 10kg; the point on, plus the e0.80 minimum. When rate per kilometre almost doubles hailing an occupied taxi, shout out your between midnight and 5am, and there destination so the driver can decide are Easter and Christmas bonuses, which whether he wants your custom or not.

City Transport Information The Greek National Tourist Office sleep, as well as the city streets – or the (GNTO; Ellinikós Organismós Tourismoú city maps produced by Emvelia or EOT in Greek; wwww.gnto.gr) has a (wwww.emvelia.gr) or Falkplan. These brand new central information office at and others should be available from good Amalías 26, just off Sjndagma (t210 local bookshops and some kiosks: the 33 10 392). This is a useful first stop for best source is the top floor of the Elefth- information, and they have a good free eroudakis bookshop at Panepistimíou 17, map as well as information sheets on between Sjndagma and Omónia. current opening hours, bus and ferry Useful sources of information for schedules, and so on. There’s also Inter- what’s on include the English-language net access. If you are arriving by plane, daily Athens News, whose Friday edition you could also call in at the airport has a complete events programme for branch (see p.165). the weekend. Much more extensive list- Useful maps to complement those in ings, but in Greek only, can be found in this guide include the Rough Guide City Athinorama or Time Out Athens, both of Map of Athens (w www.roughguides which have screening times for all films .com) – full-colour, non-tearable, weath- and exhaustive catalogues of nightspots, erproof and pocket-sized, detailing restaurant, music and events. They’re attractions, places to shop, eat, drink and published weekly on Thursdays.