©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

IRELAND’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 34 ROAD TRIPS

Fionn Davenport Isabel Albiston, Belinda Dixon, Catherine Le Nevez, Neil Wilson SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo

Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating Locals Drink 5 PLAN YOUR TRIP

Trip Outdoors Sleeping Detour 4 Welcome to ...... 7 Ireland Highlights Map...... 8 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu Ireland Highlights...... 10 h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- If You Like...... 20 p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly Need to Know...... 22 s Swimming a Air- City Guide...... 24 Conditioning Pool Ireland by Region...... 30 MAP LEGEND Ireland Classic Trips...... 32

outes is Trip oute Trip Numbers Trip Detour Linked Trip Trip Stop Walk oute Tollway Walking tour ON THE ROAD Freeway Primary Trip Detour Secondary Tertiary Poulation Iconic Lane Capital National 1 Ireland ...... 7 Days 35 nsealed oad Capital PlaaMall StateProince Steps CityLarge Town The Long Tunnel TownVillage 2 Way Round...... 14 Days 47 Pedestrian Oerpass eas Walk TrackPath each Tip to Cemetery 3Toe...... 10 Days 61 oundaies Christian International Cemetery Other StateProince Park Cliff Forest & EASTERN eseration ydoay rban Area IRELAND...... 75 ierCreek Sportsground Intermittent ier A Long Weekend SwampMangroe ansot 4 Around Dublin...... 3 Days 79 Canal Airport Water Cable Car DrySalt Funicular East to Intermittent Lake Parking 5 West...... 7 Days 87 lacier Trainailway Tram The Boyne iay aes 6 E-oad Network Valley...... 2 Days 95 National Network Ancient 2 7 Ireland...... 4 Days 103 Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book CONTENTS

Monasteries, & SOUTHWEST 8 Mountains & Mansions...... 3 Days 111 IRELAND...... 171

Wicklow Ring of 9 Mountains...... 3 Days 119 f Kerry...... 4 Days 175

Carlow Back Dingle a Roads...... 3 Days 127 g Peninsula...... 3–4 Days 187

Kilkenny’s Southwest b Treasures...... 3 Days 135 h Blitz...... 4 Days 197

Wexford & Southwestern c Waterford...... 5 Days 143 i Pantry...... 5 Days 209

Blackwater West Cork d Valley Drive...... 2 Days 151 j Villages...... 7 Days 217

Family Shannon River e Fun...... 3 Days 159 k Route...... 4 Days 225 The Holy l Glen...... 2–3 Days 233

Belfast & the North of Ireland p313

Galway & the West of Ireland p243 Dublin & Eastern Ireland p75

Cork & Southwest Ireland p171

3 Contents cont.

GALWAY & THE WEST OF IRELAND...... 243 ROAD TRIP Best of m the West...... 6 Days 247 ESSENTIALS

Musical n Landscapes...... 5 Days 259 Ireland Driving Guide...... 373 Mountains Ireland Travel Guide...... 378 o & Moors...... 6 Days 271 Language...... 386 Loughs of Index...... 389 p the West...... 4–5 Days 279

North Mayo q & ...... 4–5 Days 287

Sligo r Surrounds...... 5 Days 295

County s Clare...... 8–9 Days 303

BELFAST & THE NORTH OF IRELAND...... 313 The North in t a Nutshell...... 10 Days 317

Delights of u ...... 7 Days 329

Inishowen v Peninsula...... 3 Days 337

Northwest on w Adrenaline...... 4 Days 345

From Bangor x to Derry...... 4 Days 353

The Antrim y Coast...... 3 Days 361

Clonmacnoise High Cross at this ancient monstastic site MICHAEL MANTKE/SHUTTERSTOCK © 4 5 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

Athassel Priory 237 Forest Park 333-4 A Battle of the Boyne Site area codes 384 abbeys, see also churches & 17, 81, 98 Arranmore Island 325-6, 327 cathedrals Browne’s Hill Dolmen 130 Arthurstown 146-7 Augustinian abbey 282 Brú na Bóinne 97-8, 104-5, Ashford 282 Black Abbey 167 162 Askeaton 228 Duiske Abbey 140 Carrowkeel Megalithic Assarancagh Waterfall 326 Cemetery 296-7 Dunbrody Abbey 146-7 Athassel Priory 237 Céide Fields 248-9, 346-8 Hore Abbey 238 Athenry 68 Cooley Cross 339 Jerpoint Abbey 108, 138 Athlone 68-9, 72-3, 117 Corlea Trackway 116 Kylemore Abbey 275-6 ATMs 382 Dun Aengus 54, 90-1, 266 Mellifont Abbey 98-100 Aughris Head 291-2, 293 Friary 305 Mt Melleray Cistercian automobile associations 375 Gallarus Oratory 192 Abbey 154 124 Muckross Abbey 184 97, 105 Sligo Abbey 348 Jerpoint Abbey 108, 138 B Tintern Abbey 145-6 Kells Priory 137 B&Bs 379 accessible travel 385 Kilree Round Tower & Bagenalstown 132 accommodation 23, 378, High Cross 137-8 Ballaghbeama Gap 182 379-80 Loughcrew Cairns 105 Ballina 226, 290 Achill Island 289, 293 Monasterboice 100 Ballinrobe 282-3 activities 21, see also Reginald’s Tower 147 individual activities Riasc Monastic Settlement Ballycarbery Castle 179 Adare 229, 231, 253-4, 256 192 Ballycastle 319-20, 327 Adare Castle 229 17, 69, Ballycroy National Park 289-90 Ahakista 222 107-8, 238 Ballycurrin Lighthouse 282 air travel 378, 379 310 Ballyduff 156 Allihies 222 St Mura Cross. 323 Ballyferriter 192 Altamont Gardens 130 Antrim Coast 361 Ballymaloe House 214 Amazing Grace 341 Aran Islands 308 Ballymena 362-3 ancient sites & ruins 19, 20, archaeological sites, see 103-8, see also abbeys, ancient sites & ruins Ballysaggartmore & forts, churches Ardara 332 Towers 156 & cathedrals Ardmore 56, 148, 149, 154 Ballyvaughan 305, 309

389 Baltimore 212, 220 Belvedere House & car travel, see driving Bangor 354 Gardens 115-16 caravan parks 379-80 Bansha 235-6 Belvelly 214 Carlingford 164, 165 Bantry 203-4, 207, 221, 223 Benbulben 298 Carlow Brewing Company Barleycove Beach 220 Bennettsbridge 137 132 Battle of the Boyne Site 98 Birr 69, 73, 106, 109, Carlow County 128 beaches 114-15, 117 Carlow Town 128, 133 Achill Island 289 demesne 114 Carndonagh 343 Blackwater Valley 151-7 Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

INDEX Arranmore Island 325-6 Aughris Head 291-2 Castle 205 50, 320, 356-7, 366

Blennerville 194 Carrigart 324 B-C Ballyquin 148 Barleycove Beach 220 Blessington 82-3, 85 Carrowkeel Megalithic Cemetery 296-7 Caherdaniel 182, 200 boat travel 378 Cashel 107-8, 109, 238, 239, Carrigart 324 border crossings 321, 376 277, see also Rock Dog’s Bay 274 Borris 131-2, 133 of Cashel Downings 334 Boycott, Captain Charles Cunningham 282 Cashel Folk Village 238 Dunfanaghy 51, 333 Boyne Valley 95 Castlebar 68, 72 Dunlewey 64 Brandon Point 193 Castlebellingham 100 Easkey 291 breweries 72, 132 Castlegregory 193, 195 Enniscrone 291, 348 Brow Head 221 castles & forts Glassilaun Beach 274 Browne’s Hill Dolmen 130 Adare Castle 229 Glencolumbcille 65 Brú Ború 238 282 Gurteen Bay 274 Brú na Bóinne 17, 81, 97-8, Ballycarbery Castle 179 Inch 189 101, 104-5, 162 Birr Castle demesne 114 Inishbofin 284 Buncrana 334, 342, 343 Black Castle 132 Kilcrohane 222 Buncrana Castle 342 205 230 230 Buncrana Castle 342 Kilmurvey 91 Burren, The 53, 91 230 Mullaghmore 300 Bushmills 366, 367 Caherconnell Fort 55 Narin 64, 326 business hours 383 Cahergall 179 Portstewart 320 Butcher’s Gate 370 Castle 235 Rathmullan 324 Butter Slip 166 Charles Fort 218-19 Rossbeigh Strand 178 Classiebawn Castle 300 Rosses Point 298 C 212, 228, Rossnowlagh 330, 348-9 253-4 Caherconnell Fort 55 Sandycove 84 325 Caherdaniel 43, 181-2, 200-1 Slea Head 41, 190 65, 349 Cahergall 179 Spanish Point 262 Dun Aengus 54, 90-1, 266 Cahersiveen 179, 200 Strandhill 298 Dún an Óir Fort 192 Cahir 235 Streedagh Strand 300 Dunbeg Fort 41 camping 379-80 Youghal 152 Castle 148, 206 Cappoquin 153-4, 157 Beara Peninsula 221-2, 223 92 & Belfast 12, 27, 49-50, 58, 319, 357-8 356, 359, 368-9 Gardens 153

390 Dunseverick Castle 50 Christ Church Cathedral 168 Clonca Church 341-2 Elizabeth Fort 240 Church of St Mary 138 Clonegal 131, 133 Fort Dunree 342 Clonca Church 341-2 Clonfert Cathedral 90 Castle 64 Clonfert Cathedral 90 Clonmacnoise 89, 106, 109, Grianán of Aileách 63-4 Collegiate Church of St 115 355-6 Nicholas of Myra 311 Clonmel 234-5, 239 Huntington Castle 131 Franciscan Friary Cobh 205, 207 69, 166 (Clonmel) 235 Coleman Irish Music Franciscan Friary Centre 67

Leacanabuile 179 INDEX () 99 City 228 Collegiate Church of St

Franciscan Friary Nicholas of Myra 311 155 C (Rossnowlagh) 330 Collins, Michael 219-20 Lynch’s Castle 311 Layde Old Church 363 Coney Island 298 Mullin’s Castle 138 Mellifont Abbey 98-100 Cong 282, 285 O’Brien’s Castle 306 St Anne’s Church 241 Connemara 12 Parke’s Castle 292 St Canice’s Cathedral 167 Connemara National Park Portumna Castle & St Carthage’s Cathedral 284, 285 Gardens 226 155 Connor Pass 193 Rock of Cashel 17, 69, St Colman’s Cathedral 205 107-8, 238 Cooley Cross 339 St Columb’s Cathedral 358 184 241 St Declan’s Church 148 96-7 Cork City 13, 28-9, 56, 59, St Fin Barre’s Cathedral 204, 207, 213-14, 215, Tynte’s Castle 206 240 240-1, 255, 257 82 St Gobban’s Church 50 Cork City Gaol 204 Castletownbere 221 St Mary’s Cathedral Cork Film Festival 204 Cathedral of the (Killarney) 199 Corlea Trackway 116 Assumption 128 St Mary’s Cathedral costs 23 Causeway Coast Way 50, (Limerick) 228 320 Craiceann Inis Oírr Inter- St Mary’s Collegiate national Bodhrán Summer Céide Fields 248-9, 346-8 Church 206 School 267 Celbridge 82, 112 St Patrick’s Cathedral 169 Crawford Municipal Art cell phones 23, 384 Tullyaughnish Church 324 Gallery 241 Celtic & Prehistoric Clare, County 303-9 credit cards 382 Museum 190-1 Clarenbridge Oyster Festival 250 Charles Fort 218-19 92, 251 Cromane Peninsula 178 Charlie Chaplin Comedy Clarinbridge 92, 251-3 Cromwell, Oliver 98 Film Festival 181 Classiebawn Castle 300 Crookhaven 220 168 Clifden 38, 44, 90, 93 Cúirt International Festival Christ Church Cathedral 168 19, 38-9, 306 of Literature 251 Church Island 181 climate 22 Culdaff 343 churches & cathedrals Cloghane 192-3 currency 22 Cashel Cathedral 107 Clogherhead 100 Cushendall 356, 359 Cathedral of the Clonakilty 211-12, 215, Cushendun 363-4, 367 Assumption 128 219-20 Cushlough Bay 283

391 parking 375 Enniskerry 84, 85, 120, 125 D road conditions 374-5 Ennistimon 262-3, 268, 306, dangers, see safety road distances 374 309 Death of Innocence Mural road rules 375 Erris Head 346 371 safety 376 exchange rates 382-3 Delphi 284, 285 tollways 377 Eyeries 222 Delta Sensory Gardens websites 375 311 129-30 Drogheda 98, 101, 162-4, 165 Derry 62, 72, 321, 327, 338-9,

INDEX 298 F 358, 359, 370-1 Dublin 10, 24-5, 36, 44, 48-9, Fahan 323-4

Derrynane National Historic D-F 58, 75-7, 88-9, 93, 160-1, 364 Park 43, 200-1 165, 168-9 Father McDyer’s Folk Desmond Castle 212, 228, Dublin Zoo 160 Village 65 253-4 Duckett’s Grove 130 ferry travel 378 Dingle Peninsula 17, 54-5, 187 Duiske Abbey 140 festivals & events Dingle Peninsula Museum Dun Aengus 54, 90-1, 266 192 Ballina Salmon Festival Dún an Óir Fort 192 290 Dingle Town 39, 45, 54-5, 59, Dunbeg Fort 41 190, 195, 254, 257 Brandon Regatta 193 Dunbrody Abbey 146 disabilities, travellers with Carlingford Oyster Festival 385 Dunbrody Famine Ship 70 164 distilleries Dunfanaghy 51, 58, 327, Charlie Chaplin Comedy 333, 335 Film Festival 181 Clonakilty Distillery 212 Dungarvan 148, 149, 206 Clarenbridge Oyster Jameson Experience 206 Dungarvan Castle 148, 206 Festival 92, 251 Old Bushmills Distillery Cork Film Festival 204 366 Dunguaire Castle 92 Craiceann Inis Oírr Interna- Doe Castle 325 Dunlewey 64, 72, 332-3 tional Bodhrán Summer Dog’s Bay 274-5 Dunluce Castle 357-8 School 267 Dolphin Discovery 230, 308 Dunmore Cave 138 Dunquin 191-2 Cúirt International Festival Donegal Castle 65, 349 of Literature 251 Dunseverick Castle 50 Donegal Gaeltacht 350 Fleadh Nua 262 Durrus 210-11 Donegal Town 330, 349-50, Galway Film Fleadh 251 351 Dursey Island 222 Galway International Arts Doolin 54, 92, 93, 266, 268 Festival 251 Downhill Demesne 358 E Galway International Downings 327, 334 Easkey 291 Oyster & Seafood driving 373-7 electricity 380 Festival 251 automobile associations Elizabeth Fort 240 Galway Race Week 251 375 emergencies 22, 377 Gourmet Festival 212 border crossings 321, 376 English Market 29, 213, 240 Guinness Jazz Festival 204 car rental 22, 373 Ennis 39, 45, 260-2, 268, Inishbofin Arts Festival 284 fuel 22, 375-6 304-5, 309 Lughnasa 193 insurance 373 Enniscorthy 70, 73, 144-5, North West 200 324 licence 373 149 Puck Fair 178 maps 374 Enniscrone 291, 348, 351 Rose of Tralee 194

392 Seafood Festival Gallarus Oratory 192 golf 138, 181, 298 (Baltimore) 212 galleries, see Gougane Barra Forest Park Seafood Festival & galleries 201 (Kilmore Quay) 145 Galtee Mountains 238 Graiguenamanagh 140, 141 Taste of West Cork Food Galway City 12, 26, 37-8, 44, Grange 300 Festival 211 68, 72, 90, 93, 251, 256, Green Lane Museum 321 Town of Books Festival 140 260, 268, 272-3, 277, 280 Greencastle 339-40, 343 West Cork Chamber Music 68, 310 Grianán of Aileách 63-4 Festival 204 Galway Film Fleadh 251 Guinness Jazz Festival 204 West Waterford Drama INDEX Galway International Arts 48 Festival 156 Festival 251

Gurteen 67-8 F-I West Waterford Festival of Galway International Oyster Gurteen Bay 274-5 Food 148 & Seafood Festival 251 Willie Clancy Summer Galway Race Week 251 School 262 182-3 H Fintown Railway 325 gardens, see parks & Hall of the Red Earl 310 Flagstaff Viewpoint 164 gardens Hazelwood 292 food 21, 23, 380-1, 382, see Garinish Island 222, 254 health 382 also festivals & events gay travellers 381 Healy Pass 56 Belvelly 214 Giant’s Causeway 18, 50-1, highlights 8-19 Cork 209-15Tannery 58, 320, 357, 366 Hill of Slane 105 Cookery School 148 Glandore 255 Hill of Tara 97, 105 etiquette 382 Glanteenassig Forest Hillsborough 355-6, 359 oysters 26, 92, 164, 251 Recreation Area 193 Hillsborough Castle 355-6 Taste of West Cork Food Glassilaun Beach 275 holidays 383-4 Festival 211 Glebe Gallery 334 Hore Abbey 108 West Waterford Festival of Glebe Gardens 212 Horn Head 51, 325 Food 148 Glen of Aherlow 236 hostels 380 vegetarian travellers 381 363, 367 House of Waterford Crystal Fort Dunree 342 Glenbarrow 114 147-8 forts, see castles & forts Glencolumbcille 65, 72, 326 Howth 80, 85 Fota Wildlife Park 204 Glencree 120-2 228 Fountain Housing Estate 370 15, 83, 85, 108, Huntington Castle 131 Foynes 228 123-4, 125 Franciscan Friary Glendalough Valley 124 (Clonmel) 235 I Glendine Park 114 Franciscan Friary Inch 189 Glenevin Waterfall 323, 327 (Killarney) 99 334 Glengarriff 222, 223, 254-5, Franciscan Friary 257 Inchagoill 281 (Rossnowlagh) 330 Glengesh Pass 64-5 Inchiquin 281 Free Derry Corner 371 Glenmacnass Valley 122 Inisfallen 184 fuel 22, 375-6 124, 125 Inishbofin 284, 285 64 Inisheer 266-7, 269, 306, 309 G Glenveagh National Park Gaeilge 386 64, 334 Inishmaan 305-6, 309

393 Inishmore 54, 59, 90-1, 93, 194 LGBTI+ travellers 381 266, 269, 305, 309 Kilcolgan 251-3 Limerick City 227-8, 231 Head 340-1 Kilcrohane 222 Limerick City Gallery of Art Inishowen Peninsula 337-43 Kilcullen’s Seaweed Baths 228 Iniskeel Island 64, 326 291, 292, 348 Lisdoonvarna 265-6 Inistioge 140, 141 263-5 Lismore 154-6, 157 insurance 373 Kilgraney House Herb 298 internet access 23, 382 Gardens 132 Londonderry 358, see also internet resources 23, 25, 26, Kilkee 230, 231 Derry INDEX 27, 29, 375, 379 Kilkenny 69-70, 73, 136-7, 230, 306-8

Iskaheen 321, 339 141, 166-7 Lord Brandon’s Cottage 183 I-M islands Kilkenny Castle 69, 166 Lough Corrib 280-2 Achill Island 289 Killala 290 Lough Gill 292 Aran Islands 308 Killaloe 226 Lough Hyne 255 Arranmore Island 325-6, 327 Killarney 42, 45, 176-7, 185, Loughcrew Cairns 105 Church Island 181 188-9, 195, 199-200 Loughrea Peninsula 64 Coney Island 298 183 122 Dursey Island 222 Killary Harbour 250 Lynch’s Castle 311 Garinish Island 222, 254 Killorglin 43, 178, 185, 200, 207 Inch Island 334 M Killybegs 350, 351 Iniskeel Island 64, 326 Kilmore Quay 71, 73, 145, 149 Magan’s 116 Omey Island 284 Kilmurvey 91 Magazine Gate 370 Rathlin Island 364-6, 367 Kilree Round Tower & High Main Guard 234 Saltee Islands 71, 146 Cross 137-8 Malin Beg 332 42 Kilrush 230, 308, 309 Malin Head 342 Tory Island 333 212, 215, 218-19 Malin Village 343 43, 179 91-2 maps 374 179 Maritime Museum 339 J Kylemore Abbey 275-6 markets James Joyce Tower & Clonakilty Farmers Museum 84 L Market 211 Jameson Experience 206 English Market 29, 213, lakes Jerpoint Abbey 108, 138 240 Lough Corrib 280-2 Jerpoint Glass Studio 131 Kinsale Farmers Market Lough Gill 292 212 K Lough Hyne 255 Lismore Farmers Market language 22, 386-7 157 Kate Kearney’s Cottage 183 Layde Old Church 363 Midleton Farmers Market Kells 137 Leacanabuile 179 214 Kenmare 42-3, 45, 55-6, 59, Leenane 250, 256 Skibbereen Farmers 182, 185, 201-3, 207 Leighlinbridge 132 Market 211 Kenmare Heritage Centre Letterkenny 335 measures 383 201 medical services 382 Kerry Bog Village Museum 240, 255 Meenaleck 325 178

394 Mellifont Abbey 98-100 Mullingar 117 Millmount Museum 98 Michael Collins Centre Mullin’s Castle 138 354-5 219-20 museums & galleries 116 Museum of Free Derry 371 Midleton 206, 214 Adaire Heritage Centre 229 National 1798 Rebellion Millmount Museum 98 Blasket Centre 191 Centre 70, 145 Miltown Malbay 262 Braid 362-3 National Design & Craft Mizen Head Peninsula Brú Ború 238 Gallery & Design Centre 166 220-1, 223 mobile phones 23, 384 128 National Museum of

Country Life 68 INDEX Model 296 Celtic & Prehistoric Moher, Cliffs of 19, 38-9, 306 Museum 190-1 National Museum of

Ireland 88-9 M Monasterboice 100 Cobh, The Queenstown National Museum of monastic sites 20 Story 205 Ireland - Archaeology 169 Clonmacnoise 89, 106, 115 Cork Butter Museum 241 National Museum of Glendalough 15, 83, 108, Cork City Gaol 204 Ireland - Natural 123-4 Crawford Municipal Art History 169 Kells Priory 137 Gallery 241 Patrick Pearse’s Cottage Dingle Peninsula Museum Monasterboice 100 274 192 Riasc Monastic Settlement Reginald’s Tower 147 192 Dunbrody Famine Ship 70 Rothe House & Garden 167 money 23, 382-3 Fota House 204 Skellig Experience 179 motorcycle travel, see driving Foynes Flying Boat Skibbereen Heritage Museum 228 Mount Juliet Golf Course 138 Centre 220 Galway City Museum 68, Mount Stewart 354-5 310 mountains 67, 292 Glebe Gallery 334 Connemara 12 Sligo Folk Park 297-8 Green Lane Museum 321 Galtee Mountains 238 South Tipperary County Hunt Museum 228 Knocknadobar 179 Museum 235 Irish National Famine Luggala 122 Swiss Cottage 235 Museum 116 Mt Brandon 193 Tarbert Bridewell Jail & James Joyce Tower & Mt 130 Courthouse 230 Museum 84 Mt 250 Titanic Belfast 50, 319 Kenmare Heritage Centre Titanic Experience Cobh Slieve Bloom 114 201 205 Wicklow 119 Kerry Bog Village Museum Tower Museum 62, 321 Moville 343 178 Museum 356 Mt Brandon 193 Kerry County Museum 194 Mt Errigal 350, 351 Lewis Glucksman Gallery 206 Mt Leinster 130 240, 255 Waterford Museum of Mt Melleray Cistercian Limerick City Gallery of Treasures 147 Abbey 154 Art 228 Yeats Memorial Building 296 Mt Mweelrea 250 Maritime Museum 339 music 21, 39, 54, 259, 374 Muckross Abbey 184 Medieval Museum 147 Booley House 156 Muckross Estate 183-4 Michael Collins Centre Coleman Irish Music Mullaghmore 300, 301 219-20 Centre 67

395 music continued Peace Line 369 Craiceann Inis Oírr Interna- O People’s Gallery 371 tional Bodhrán Summer O’Brien’s Castle 306 petrol 22, 375-6 School 267 Old Barracks Heritage photography 383 Guinness Jazz Festival 204 Centre 200 Pickie Funpark 354 Roundstone Musical Old Bushmills Distillery 366 Pigeon Hole 282 Instruments 274 O’Malley, Grace 290 planning 358 Omey Island 284 budgeting 23 Myrtle Grove 206 Omey Strand 284

INDEX travel seasons 22 One Man’s Pass 350 police 377

M-R N opening hours 383 Portbradden 50 Narin 64, 326, 327 oysters 26, 92, 164, 251 Portmagee 43, 179 National 1798 Rebellion Oughterard 276 Portrush 358, 359 Centre 70, 145 Portstewart 320-1, 327 National Museum of Country P Portumna 226 Life 68 Parke’s Castle 292 84 National Museum of Ireland Powerscourt Waterfall 82 88-9 parking 375 public holidays 383-4 National Museum of Ireland parks & gardens Puck Fair 178 - Archaeology 169 Altamont Gardens 130 National Museum of Ireland Ards Forest Park 333-4 - Natural History 169 Belvedere House & Q national parks & reserves, Gardens 115-6 Quiet Man Bridge 276 see also parks & gardens Cappoquin House & Quiet Man, The 276, 282 Ballycroy National Park Gardens 153-4 Quirk, Michael 300 289-90 Carlow Garden Trail 132 Connemara National Park Delta Sensory Gardens R 284, 285 129-30 Derrynane National Fota House Aboretum 204 radio 376 Historic Park 43, 200-1 Glebe Gardens & Café 212 Ramelton 324, 327 Glanteenassig Forest Glenariff Forest Park 363, Rathlin Island 364-6, 367 Recreation Area 193 367 Rathmullan 324 Glenveagh National Park Kilgraney House Herb Reginald’s Tower 147 64, 334 Gardens 132 Rex Bar Courtyard 369 Gougane Barra Forest Muckross Estate 184, Riasc Monastic Settlement Park 201 183-4 192 Killarney National Park 183 Portumna Castle & 18, 55, 175-85 Tralee Wetlands Centre 194 Gardens 226 Riverstown 297-8 Neale 282 Rothe House & Garden 167 road distances 374 New Ross 70 Strokestown 116 road rules 375 Newgrange 162 Vandeleur Walled Garden Rock of Cashel 17, 69, 107-8, Newgrange Farm 164 230, 308 238 Newmills Corn & Flax Mills 334 Woodstock Gardens 140 Roe Valley 321 Newtown 236-7, 239 Passage Coast Road 148 Rose of Tralee 194 North West 200, 324 Patrick Pearse’s Cottage 274 Ross Castle 184

396 Rossbeigh Strand 178 Spanish Arch 310 tollways 377 Rosses Point 298, 301 Spiddal 273-4, 277 184 Rossnowlagh 330, 348-9, St Anne’s Church 241 Tory Island 333 351 St Canice’s Cathedral 167 tourist information 385 Rothe House & Garden 167 St Carthage’s Cathedral 155 Tourmakeady 283 Roundstone 38, 274, 277 St Colman’s Cathedral 205 Tower Museum 62, 321 ruins, see ancient sites & St Columb’s Cathedral 358 Town of Books Festival 140 ruins St Declan’s Church 148 traditional music, see music 82-3, 84

St Fin Barre’s Cathedral 240 Tralee 194, 195 INDEX St Gobban’s Church 50 transport 23, 378-9, see also

S St John’s Point 330-2 driving R-W safety 376, 384 St Mary’s Cathedral travel seasons 22 Saltee Islands 71, 146 (Killarney) 199 Trim 96-7, 101, 162, 165 280 St Mary’s Cathedral Trim Castle 96-7 Sandycove 84, 85 (Limerick) 228 Trinity College 36, 168 seaweed baths 291, 292, 348 St Mary’s Collegiate Church 112-14, 117 206 Shankill Parade 369 Tulsk 106 St Mullins 132, 133 Shannonbridge 117 TV 383 St Mura Cross. 323 Sheep’s Head Peninsula 222 Twelve Bens 284 St Patrick’s Cathedral 169 Sinn Féin Headquarters 368 Tynte’s Castle 206 Stonyford 131 Skellig Michael 42 Strandhill 298, 301 Skellig Ring 179 U Strokestown 116 Skibbereen 211, 220, 223 356 surfing 189, 291 Sky Road 38 Ulster Tower 369 Swiss Cottage 235 Slane 105 Union Hall 255 Slea Head 41, 190-1 T Slemish 356 V Sliabh Liag 65, 332, 350 Tarbert 228-30 Valentia Island 43, 179 114 taxes 384 Vandeleur Walled Garden Taste of West Cork Food Slieve League, see Sliabh 230, 308 Liag Festival 211 Vee Gap 156 Slievemore Deserted Tayto Park 161-2 vegetarian travellers 381 Village 289 Teach Synge 305-6 Ventry 190 Sligo Abbey 348 telephone services 384 Vinegar Hill 144 Sligo County Museum 67, 292 Temple of the Winds 354 visas 22, 385 Sligo Folk Park 297 Termonfeckin 100 Voya Seaweed Baths 292 Sligo Town 51, 58-9, 65-7, Tholsel 166 72, 292, 293, 296, 301, Thomastown 138-40, 141 348, 351 Thompson Graving Dock 319 W Slish Wood 292 time 383 walking tours smoking 383 Tintern Abbey 145-6 Belfast 368-9 Sneem 182, 185 tipping 23 Cork City 240-1 South Tipperary County Titanic Belfast 50, 319 Derry 370-1 Museum 235 Titanic Experience Cobh 205 Dublin 168-9

397 walking tours continued Westport 51-3, 249-50, 256, Galway 310-11 288-9, 293 Y Kilkenny 166-7 Wexford Town 70-1, 73 Yeats’ grave 299 Waterford City 147-8, 149 whiskey, see distilleries Yeats Memorial Building 298 Waterford County Museum White Park Bay 50 Youghal 152, 157, 206 206 Wicklow Gap 123 Waterville 181, 185 119-25 Z weather 22 wi-fi 23, 282 zoos websites 23, 25, 26, 27, 29, wildlife parks, see zoos INDEX Dublin Zoo 160 375, 379 Woodstock Gardens 140 Fota Wildlife Park 204 weights 383 W-Z Tayto Park 161-2 West Cork Model Railway Village 219

398 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BELINDA DIXON CATHERINE LE NEVEZ

Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she has been (gleefully) travelling, researching and roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every navigating mountain passes and soaking in hot-pots opportunity since, travelling to some 60 countries in Iceland’s Westfjords, marvelling at Stonehenge and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts at sunrise; scrambling up Italian mountain paths; in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and horse riding across Donegal’s golden sands; gazing postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing at Verona’s frescoes; and fossil hunting on Dorset’s along the way. Over the past decade-and-a-half she’s Jurassic Coast. Then there’s the food and drink: written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles truffled mushroom pasta in Salo; whisky in Aberdeen: covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her Balti in Birmingham, grilled fish in Dartmouth; wine work has also appeared in numerous online and print in Bardolino. And all in the name of research. Belinda publications. Topping Catherine’s list of travel tips is is also a podcaster and adventure writer and helps to travel without any expectations. lead wilderness expeditions. See her blog posts at belindadixon.com.

Read more about Belinda at https://auth. Read more about Catherine at https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/belindadixon lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez

NEIL WILSON

Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full- time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, , Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder and rock-climber, and a qualified fly- fishing guide and instructor. He has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Read more about Neil at https://auth.lonelyplanet. com/profiles/neilwilson OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen OUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

FIONN DAVENPORT ISABEL ALBISTON

Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has spent the last After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in two decades focusing on the country of his birth and London, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A its nearest neighbour, England, which he has written job as writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia was about extensively for Lonely Planet and others. In followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia between writing gigs he’s lived in Paris and New York, and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, where he was an editor, actor, bartender and whatever Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet else paid the rent. When he returned to Ireland in the in 2014 and has contributed to 12 guidebooks. She’s late 1990s, he tried his hand at radio, which landed him currently based in Ireland. a series of presenting gigs, most recently as host of Inside Culture and regular travel contributor to the mid- morning Sean O’Rourke Show, both on RTE Radio 1. He moved to Manchester a few years ago where he lives with his wife, Laura, but he commutes back and forth to Dublin, only 40 minutes away.

Read more about Fionn at https://auth. Read more about Isabel at https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/fionndavenport lonelyplanet.com/profiles/IsabelAlbiston

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