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05 MAY 1 7 MAY VOL/ISSUE 2017 THE 15.5 ADVNTRS TRAVELER’S GUIDE The exploits are nice, wish you were here! Our postcards from the edge. P LU S Dial your nostalgia to 10 — the Starboard Tack is back FOR SPIRITS WITH SPIRITS, TRY THESE HAUNTED RURAL BARS Riding with Downtown cops — adventure of a different kind Comprehensive. More than a name. A philosophy of healing. Our approach to treating you. #comprehensive cccnevada.com | 702.952.3350 WE’RE ALL CONNECTED THROUGH WATER. WHEREVER YOU ARE IN VEGAS, YOUR WATER SYSTEM IS TOO. You invest a lot to have one of the most advanced water systems in the country, and that enables the Las Vegas Valley Water District to deliver water 24 hours a day across 300 square miles of the valley. A water system capable of storing up to 1 billion gallons of water and pumping over 1 million gallons per minute through 6,500 miles of pipes. We are committed to Southern Nevada and keeping safe and reliable water a part of it. Your investment. Your water. 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See us for your own Primary Care Physician—a doctor who understands your entire health history and focuses on your overall wellness rather than treating you only when you’re sick. 702.383.CARE umcsn.com/Quickcare For locations of all Quick Same-day and Primary Care locations All major insurance companies accepted. appointments available EDITOR’S NOTE 58 THRILLS AND CHILLS cquire experiences, not things! goes the contem- without context, without story. How could one merely porary adage (typically as the text on a gauzy, jetpack on an artificial lake in Pahrump without check- saturated Instagram bikini-beach photo that ing into the town’s larger story of its rebrand as a destina- looks suspiciously like an artisanal beer ad). tion for pastimes other than those involving vanilla body A Whatever, I’m as perniciously materialistic as oil and an egg timer? (Though it must be noted that, to the next moaning zombie Costco shambler, but, yes, I’m Pahrump’s eternal credit, the development of amenities totally on board with the notion in principle. And how such as a noteworthy destination winery has not caused apt: That’s kind of the theme of this issue’s travel fea- the town to forget its other historic economic drivers, ture, “The Adventurous Traveler’s Guide!” (p. 50) The beef jerky and fireworks.) We hope you consider these premise: to pump up the adrenalin and awe quotient of adventures as gateways to truly getting to know the plac- your typical day trip while also celebrating a Southwest es in your own regional neighborhood. I think they call it sense of place. The result: thrill sessions with a side of “cultural and experiential tourism,” but I just think of it chill sessions. For example, in this feature package, Scott as, you know, checking things out. Dickensheets and Scott Lien go jeeping (yes, it’s a verb) in Of course, there are other adventures Sedona, drinking in the vortex-rich beauty of Arizona’s in this issue: Dan Hernandez reports on high desert between smacks of their foreheads against a day in a cop’s life from the front seat of the vehicle’s doorframe. Frequent Desert Companion a Metro squad car (p. 26), and Dave Clark contributor Alan Gegax spends some quality time at one writes about the colorful and storied ru- of his favorite natural areas in Nevada, Cathedral Gorge, ral bars that dot the region (p. 38) — and discovering even more of its hidden twists and secret for culinary adventure, check out the curves — less like a hiking trip and more like catching pancreas-throttling guava chiffon pan- up with an old friend. Staff writer Heidi Kyser goes land- cake that Scott and I vivisected with our sailing in Jean, racing along a dry lake bed on a wind- mouths (p. 48). With so many experienc- powered buggy. And in Joshua Tree, writer Greg Thilm- es packed into one issue, I suspect your ont catches a cosmic-existential buzz during an evening Instagram filters are going to be working Andrew Kiraly of personalized stargazing with an astronomer whose some serious overtime. Onward! editor enthusiasm for celestial bodies is truly stellar. As for me, I jetpacked in Pahrump — and I did it with all the athletic elegance and poise you’d expect of a loudly screaming/ NEXT flailing person encased in an extreme- MONTH sports exoskeleton. But, to dial up My eyes! My FOLLOW DESERT COMPANION eyes! It’s our that adage again, sure, experiences www.facebook.com/DesertCompanion photo contest may be better than things, but they’d www.twitter.com/DesertCompanion issue! be cheap, lunch-line, a la carte thrills MAY 2017 6 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS job #: 31737 client: The Smith Center title: Upcoming Shows Montage TICKETS ON SALE NOW | STARTING AT $29 | VISIT THESMITHCENTER.COM TO SEE THE FULL LINEUP Desert Companion May ______________________________ run date: May 2017 release date: 4/7/17 release via: email ______________________________ technician: Pam software: InDesign CC color: 4-color fonts: Neutraface ______________________________ pub: Desert Companion bleed: 8.875” x 11.25” trim: 8.375” x 10.75” live area: 7.625” x 10” HI-RES MECHANICAL MAY 31 – JUNE 11 PHOTO BY CHI MODU CHRISTIAN McBRIDE BETSY WOLFE & CHRIS MANN MORGAN JAMES AND TIP CITY ADAM KANTOR A NIGHT WITH RECKLESS ABANDON TOUR MAY 5 & 6 MAY 8 & 9 THE PHANTOM JUNE 2 MAY 12 & 13 702.749.2000 | TTY: 800.326.6868 or dial 711 | Group Inquiries: 702.749.2348 | 361 Symphony Park Avenue, Las Vegas, NV 89106 | May 2017 VOLUME 15 ISSUE 5 [email protected] THE POWER OF STORIES Desert Companion’s first de- ruary 2015, Heidi was back with a hard- cade of publication, there’s a lot hitting account of the possibility that AFTER we’re proud of. A strong com- naturally occurring asbestos is marring mitment to reader service, being some land near Boulder City, and that Hydeia Broadbent found that being the face of AIDS awareness is inspiring — and intense. a prime example, whether it’s some people’s health might be affected. THE food stories that introduce you to Last August, she reported on the spotty palate-expanding new cuisines, state of rural medicine in Nevada. Then there’s her life behind the scenes. story by STEVE FRIESS or travel packages (see Page 50) That same issue was fronted by a cov- CURTAIN that, ha, tell you where to go, or er story in which writer Stacy J. Willis culture guides that urge you to probed the day-to-day life of Charleston 40 illustration by HERNAN VALENCIA experience this city’s boundless Boulevard, a lively and energetic ribbon creativity. We profile everyday of history, commerce and micro-cul- people who make this a multi- tures that spans the valley. Perhaps only n 1996, a 12-year-old Las Vegas girl layered, richly textured place to live. We Desert Companion would have bothered named Hydeia Broadbent made a disinter the region’s fascinating history. to knock on the door of the last house on speech to the Republican National But we’re particularly proud of some Charleston and ask what it was like to Convention, bringing it to “a tearful of our outstanding features and journal- live there. I standstill” with her story of being ism. Stories like Hydeia’s, which might We’ve always thought of these pieces, born with AIDS to a drug-addicted moth- have been reduced to a dry stack of facts and many more like them — covering er. It was her mission to put a different and quotes in a newspaper, but here, in medicine, education, the law, culture, and face on the disease, to widen the coun- these pages, was contoured into a hu- much more — as another form of reader try’s understanding of who the victims man story, told with the empathy, length service. They flesh out your sense of the are. She was a sensation. She became a and narrative drive that distinguish the city with a more nuanced understanding big story, a national story, refracted again best magazine writing.