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MAY VOL/ISSUE 2017 THE 15.5 ADVNTRS TRAVELER’S GUIDE

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EDITOR’S NOTE 58

THRILLS AND CHILLS

cquire experiences, not things! goes the contem- without context, without story. How could one merely porary adage (typically as the text on a gauzy, jetpack on an artificial lake in Pahrump without check- saturated Instagram bikini-beach photo that ing into the town’s larger story of its rebrand as a destina- looks suspiciously like an artisanal beer ad). tion for pastimes other than those involving vanilla body A Whatever, I’m as perniciously materialistic as oil and an egg timer? (Though it must be noted that, to the next moaning zombie Costco shambler, but, yes, I’m Pahrump’s eternal credit, the development of amenities totally on board with the notion in principle. And how such as a noteworthy destination winery has not caused apt: That’s kind of the theme of this issue’s travel fea- the town to forget its other historic economic drivers, ture, “The Adventurous Traveler’s Guide!” (p. 50) The beef jerky and fireworks.) We hope you consider these premise: to pump up the adrenalin and awe quotient of adventures as gateways to truly getting to know the plac- your typical day trip while also celebrating a Southwest es in your own regional neighborhood. I think they call it sense of place. The result: thrill sessions with a side of “cultural and experiential tourism,” but I just think of it chill sessions. For example, in this feature package, Scott as, you know, checking things out. Dickensheets and Scott Lien go jeeping (yes, it’s a verb) in Of course, there are other adventures Sedona, drinking in the vortex-rich beauty of Arizona’s in this issue: Dan Hernandez reports on high desert between smacks of their foreheads against a day in a cop’s life from the front seat of the vehicle’s doorframe. Frequent Desert Companion a Metro squad car (p. 26), and Dave Clark contributor Alan Gegax spends some quality time at one writes about the colorful and storied ru- of his favorite natural areas in Nevada, Cathedral Gorge, ral bars that dot the region (p. 38) — and discovering even more of its hidden twists and secret for culinary adventure, check out the curves — less like a hiking trip and more like catching pancreas-throttling guava chiffon pan- up with an old friend. Staff writer Heidi Kyser goes land- cake that Scott and I vivisected with our sailing in Jean, racing along a dry lake bed on a wind- mouths (p. 48). With so many experienc- powered buggy. And in Joshua Tree, writer Greg Thilm- es packed into one issue, I suspect your ont catches a cosmic-existential buzz during an evening Instagram filters are going to be working Andrew Kiraly of personalized stargazing with an astronomer whose some serious overtime. Onward! editor enthusiasm for celestial bodies is truly stellar. As for me, I jetpacked in Pahrump — and I did it with all the athletic elegance and poise you’d expect of a loudly screaming/ NEXT flailing person encased in an extreme- MONTH sports exoskeleton. But, to dial up My eyes! My FOLLOW DESERT COMPANION eyes! It’s our that adage again, sure, experiences www.facebook.com/DesertCompanion photo contest may be better than things, but they’d www.twitter.com/DesertCompanion issue! be cheap, lunch-line, a la carte thrills

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THE POWER OF STORIES

Desert Companion’s first de- ruary 2015, Heidi was back with a hard- cade of publication, there’s a lot hitting account of the possibility that AFTER we’re proud of. A strong com- naturally occurring asbestos is marring mitment to reader service, being some land near Boulder City, and that Hydeia Broadbent found that being the face of AIDS awareness is inspiring — and intense. a prime example, whether it’s some people’s health might be affected. THE food stories that introduce you to Last August, she reported on the spotty palate-expanding new cuisines, state of rural medicine in Nevada. Then there’s her life behind the scenes. story by STEVE FRIESS or travel packages (see Page 50) That same issue was fronted by a cov- CURTAIN that, ha, tell you where to go, or er story in which writer Stacy J. Willis culture guides that urge you to probed the day-to-day life of Charleston 40

illustration by HERNAN VALENCIA experience this city’s boundless Boulevard, a lively and energetic ribbon creativity. We profile everyday of history, commerce and micro-cul- people who make this a multi- tures that spans the valley. Perhaps only n 1996, a 12-year-old Las Vegas girl layered, richly textured place to live. We Desert Companion would have bothered named Hydeia Broadbent made a disinter the region’s fascinating history. to knock on the door of the last house on speech to the Republican National But we’re particularly proud of some Charleston and ask what it was like to Convention, bringing it to “a tearful of our outstanding features and journal- live there. I standstill” with her story of being ism. Stories like Hydeia’s, which might We’ve always thought of these pieces, born with AIDS to a drug-addicted moth- have been reduced to a dry stack of facts and many more like them — covering er. It was her mission to put a different and quotes in a newspaper, but here, in medicine, education, the law, culture, and face on the disease, to widen the coun- these pages, was contoured into a hu- much more — as another form of reader try’s understanding of who the victims man story, told with the empathy, length service. They flesh out your sense of the are. She was a sensation. She became a and narrative drive that distinguish the city with a more nuanced understanding big story, a national story, refracted again best magazine writing. of the people and issues that make it what and again through endless media outlets. Perhaps you remember our July 2014 it is, and what it might become. That wasn’t the story Desert Compan- issue, with Heidi Kyser’s ion told. We told a much different, less patient, comprehensive and conventionally inspiring story. Catch- exquisitely told investiga- Why ing up with her for our August 2011 edi- tion into the life and death The puzzling crime and untimely death tion, writer Steve Friess recounted what of pediatrician of disgraced local physician did he Ralph Conti came after the limelight: a sad and tragic Ralph Conti — beloved by story of “a fractured family with ver- his patients even as he was do it? story by HEIDI KYSER sions of their history so incongruous as ensnaring some of them PART ONE

One summer evening eight years ago, Nina and Lawrence ODibbs drove to Foothills Pediatrics on the Siena campus of St. Rose Dominican Hospital in Henderson. The couple, married nearly 30 years, was excited: They were going to visit someone to be irreconcilable,” featuring a young in a bogus stem-cell scam. who, they thought, could help slow the accelerating march of Nina’s progressive multiple sclerosis, which had recently begun to make her legs feel like two-ton dead weights. The source of their hope was not a pediatrician, however; it was Alfred Sapse, owner of a business called StemCell Pharma, who girl who’d lived well beyond the point Another piece that no other was marketing and selling what he described as a revolutionary cure for several diseases, including MS. Nina’s aunt had discovered Sapse on the Internet. “Nina, you don’t have to go to Europe for the stem-cell treatment, after all!” she had shouted through the phone earlier that day. “They’re doing it right down the street from you!” Nina called Sapse, and he told her to come right over. her doctors told her she’d die. She was publication would have or The reason she and her husband were going to a pediatrician’s office is that Sapse wasn’t licensed to practice medicine in Nevada — or anywhere in the U.S. Although he claimed to be the scientist behind the procedure Nina sought, he needed a licensed physician to actually perform it. Enter Ralph Conti, owner of Foothills Pediatrics and a phenomenally popular doctor throughout the still trying to get her life back together. could have done. valley, where he operated five other locations, in addition to the one in Henderson.

JULY 2014 JULY 2014 DESERTCOMPANION.COM ODESERTCOMPANION.COM As we spend this year reflecting on Not long after that, in Feb- 42 43

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26 FIELD NOTES On patrol with Metro’s 38 Downtown command By Daniel Hernandez

34 SOCIETY Adia Lancaster is on the front lines of the fight against human trafficking FEATURE By Erica Vital-Lazare 50 DESTINATION: ADVENTURE 38 T R AV E L From mulepacking in the Grand Canyon to stargazing in Joshua Tree to Beer, banter and Wild West history is served up landsailing in Ivanpah, get your kicks this season with a sense of place at these rural haunts By Dave Clark

43 DINING 44 THE DISH Starboard DEPARTMENTS Tack sails again 47 EAT THIS NOW ALL THINGS Salad? Oui! 05 MAY 17 OUTDOORS 17 47 COCKTAIL A night Empowering women to MAY VOL/ISSUE in White Linen 2017 15.5 enjoy the great outdoors THE 48 TABLE FOR TWO 20 BOOKS Laura ADVNTRS Insane in the pancake TRAVELER’S GUIDE The exploits McBride’s ’Round are nice, wish you were here! Our postcards from the Midnight edge. 65 THE GUIDE P LU S Dial your nostalgia to 10 — the Starboard Tack is back FOR SPIRITS WITH SPIRITS, TRY THESE HAUNTED RURAL BARS 21 ZEIT BITES Comedy! Do it do it do it do it! Riding with Downtown cops — adventure of a different kind 22 PROFILE A musical 72 magician END NOTE The last satirical trip- ON THE 24 OPEN TOPIC planning flow chart you’ll COVER Blinded by science! 24 ever need PHOTOGRAPHY By Scott Dickensheets Scott Lien JENNA DOSCH HOTEL: BRENT HOLMES; OVERLAND BENEDICT: KALUA ILLUSTRATION, PETER FRIGERI; ROBOT MULEPACKING:

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Chance, fate and choices in ’Round Midnight BUT IT’S AN ALL-NATURAL GLASS CEILING page 20

COMMUNITY verything changed for Toyya Mahoney late one evening in the spring of 2012, when she was sitting alone on a bench at the Katherine Landing amphitheater near the edge E of Lake Mohave. She was a National Park Service seasonal employee there, one of few Wild living onsite, and didn’t have much to do after the ranger program that had just finished. So she sat, looking at the moon, the lake, and — jolting her out of her reverie — a coyote walking by. She remembered what her North Las Vegas family, for whom “getting outdoors” meant women playing kickball with neighborhood kids in their cul-de-sac, had said when she told them Why are fewer American she was moving to the Arizona desert for a job: “‘I don’t know how you’re going to go to the females than males into middle of nowhere. Aren’t you afraid? Do you need a gun?’” she recalls them saying. “They outdoor recreation, and why thought it was going to be this horror experience, like (the movie) The Hills Have Eyes. … They thought I was going to be attacked by coyotes.” does it matter? And now here she was, alone in the dark, with a coyote nearby. BY HEIDI KYSER “Before I could look again, it was gone — it had run all the way down to the water, and even when I first noticed it, it was probably at least 10 feet away,” she says. “In that moment, I

MAY 2017 ILLUSTRATION AARON MCKINNEY DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 17 ALL THINGS community

learned that what my family had thought And she helps others make the same outreach coordinator for REI. “When wasn’t true. It had shaped my reality and connection. Over the past five years, you see the word ‘outdoorsy,’ it can have a put fear in my mind, but it wasn’t true. I she’s worked with several organizations negative connotation for women, because needed to figure out my own connection to connect city dwellers and at-risk youth when you’re outdoorsy, you’re not pretty. to the outdoors. That day had an impact with the outdoors. Today, Mahoney vol- You’re dirty and sweaty.” on the rest of my life.” unteers with Natural Leaders and Out- While some outdoor sports may re- Mahoney says that this connection and door Afro while working at the Bureau of quire trading makeup for gear, Ma - the NPS mentor who fostered it, Amanda Reclamation, where she’s learned about honey believes there’s a place outdoors Rowland, helped her through a difficult pe- trail maintenance and environmental for females of all kinds, tomboys to riod that included the death of her mother. conservation. This month, she’ll put that girlie girls. She says women frequently To maintain balance, she does what she knowledge to use in the All American arrive for Outdoor Afro hikes in color- calls “healing hikes,” treks to isolated plac- Trails young leadership program. coordinated outfits, and she refuses to es where she can leave her troubles on the Mahoney is exceptional. Some 143 mil- give up her own regular manicures, even trail, returning to the city with a lightened lion Americans participate in outdoor ac- when she’s working in the field. heart and fresh perspective. tivities, according to the Outdoor Founda- “I think sometimes it’s just the newness tion’s most recent annual report. Of those, and unfamiliarity of outdoor recreation,” 54 percent are male, 46 percent female. she says. “They might want to try it but Indoor fitness is much more popular than don’t know how. Or they’ll see a woman outdoor activities among women in Ma- riding a bike and think, ‘She’s so advanced, honey’s age group (21-25). I’ll never be able to keep up with her.’” To understand why this is, outdoor re- Snyder believes this is why it’s important FORCE TO RECKON WITH tailer REI commissioned a study in Jan- that women be encouraged to try: to gain uary. Respondents — some 2,000 women the confidence of tackling a challenge on Having studied gender disparity in outdoor ages 18-35 from across the U.S. — over- their own, without the help of a man, and recreation, REI is doing something to try to whelmingly said they believe the outdoors with the support of other girls and women. solve it. On May 6 the company launches a is conducive to good mental and physical Lee saw this in action last year when national effort to get more women outdoors. Called “Force of Nature,” it’s expected to health. Nevertheless, around seven in 10 she participated in an all-women, nine- inspire 1,000 events around the country, said they wished they could spend more day road rally from Lake Tahoe through including a Las Vegas one at Skye Canyon time in the outdoors, but can’t due to ob- the outskirts of Las Vegas to San Diego. housing development near Red Rock. Over stacles such as weather, time, and no one “My experience had always been, ‘Beat Mother’s Day weekend, Friends of Nevada to go with them. out the next girl,’ but in this event there Wilderness, Outdoor Afro, and other com- In addition to these practical barriers, was so much love and appreciation,” she munity groups will lead a hike, camp-out, the study identified several social factors. says. “There were so many times when and bike ride, as well as educational sessions Around 60 percent of respondents said people were knee-deep in rocks and mud, on topics like how to use a map and com - they face the same gender-related pres- and we’d pull over, flip the hair up in a pass, and cook in a Dutch oven. sures in the woods as in the workplace, bun, and dig each other out. We’d whip Outside also published a female-focused citing “be sexy,” “lose weight,” and “smile out the wrenches and do what we had to issue coinciding with REI’s “Force of Nature” more” as common expectations. do to get unstuck.” news release. With a photo spread featur- “There’s so much focus on how we look Banding together is also a great way ing ski racer Lindsey Vonn, swimmer Diana and being thin, and there are so many un- to avoid the real risks women take in the Nyad, and eight other iconic female out- healthy ways to get there,” says clinical outdoors, which aren’t immune to sexual doorswomen, the magazine implicitly tackles psychologist Carli Snyder, who specializes harassment and violence. Snyder stresses findings from the retailer’s January survey: in women’s mental health issues such as that there’s strength in numbers, and that namely, that nearly two-thirds of respon- anorexia, anxiety, and depression. Snyder confronting fears — just as Mahoney did dents couldn’t think of a female outdoors role model, and 60 percent believe men’s leads an early-intervention group called — is deeply empowering. interest in outdoor activities is taken more Girl Nation that aims to instill confidence “Think about what it would be like to seriously than women’s. and self-acceptance in teens before they complete an event you really want to do,” fall victim to the unrealistic portrayals of Snyder advises. “Try doing something “We want to support women-specific groups women in commercial media. with a friend, something challenging, but and foster female leaders in the outdoors,” Also, these images may clash with in a situation where you’re safe — with says REI’s Ashley Lee, who’s organizing the those of female adventurers. “In my a group, or with a satellite phone. That Las Vegas event. “This is the year of wom - experience, women are reluctant to em- way, you can push yourself out of your en’s empowerment and equality. We want to brace an outdoors identity,” says Ashley comfort zone, and that’s the only way we harness that and create an opportunity for Lee, outdoor programs and community grow in life.” women to come together and cause a shift in the outdoor industry.”

MAY 2017 18 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS

ALL THINGS zeit bites

REVIEW Matters of choice Decisions echo across decades for the women in Laura McBride’s “honest Las Vegas tale,” ’Round Midnight

BY CHUCK TWARDY

ear the end of ’Round Midnight, in 1960, 1992, and 2010. after an armed confrontation, The name suggests the Na police negotiator reflects: El Cortez, although “Crazy town. Crazy, crazy town.” McBride locates it He’s talking about Las Vegas, of south of Downtown. course. Because, of course, it is crazy. In any event, the once This is not the snarky outsider’s con- swanky casino-hotel tempt that Las Vegans learn to endure or decays as choices made ignore, but rather the local’s acceptance in and about it propel that it is indeed a rather peculiar place, puzzled characters but in ways visitors cannot appreciate. through secrets and Author Laura McBride, who flashed regrets. The main valley savvy in 2014’s We Are Called to characters plunge on Rise, knows whereof she writes because because it is life’s only she lives here and teaches at the College option, to cast behind second child, she’s pretty sure it’s Odell’s, of Southern Nevada. Nothing about the them their compromised desires and but she’s wrong. And it is clear immedi- hostage scene is Vegas-y — an ex-lover troubled memories. ately because Eddie is black. Las Vegas is might be threatening a homeowner and At the novel’s core is June Stein, a just awakening to its racism — McBride her maid in Boise right now — but the restless young woman who flees her name-checks the Moulin Rouge — and a city Benny and Bugsy built is the only hometown in the late 1950s for Las Vegas white casino owner’s wife just can’t have setting for this standoff. And maybe it’s and Odell Dibb, her husband and partner a black child, sorry. something about Las Vegas that renders in the El Capitan. Their mysterious back- Orphaned daughter Coral grows up the climax somewhat anticlimactic. er is the only nod at Mob Vegas, and he in a black family, but learns in the book’s Set in a fading, older hotel-casino, appears to be behind the death of Odell’s middle section that her mother, Augusta, ’Round Midnight (Touchstone, $25.99) old friend and the beating up and exile of actually took her in when she was just carries its characters through three Eddie Knox, the Midnight Club’s popular days old. Coral discovers almost acciden- generations, each of three parts opening singer. June and Eddie get it on, and tally that she can sing — it’s in the genes, in the Midnight Room of the El Capitan, when June turns up pregnant with her right? — and does so in San Francisco,

“No sets, no costumes, performs a one-man, and sound effects.” movies into an hour. Be- no props.” Because Charlie super-condensed version Feel that? Millions of neath its special effects, the A tremor Ross is an actor describing of the original trilogy — nerds crying out in con- story is pretty basic. Still, his a one-person stage show, episodes 4-6 in about an fusion, why? Well, for the take is definitely not, as they in the such talk of presentational hour — with no whiz-bang same reason Han agreed to say, canon. “It’s more like an minimalism isn’t surprising to fall back on. No gleaming fly Obi-Wan and Luke off irreverent homage.” — it’s a thing in the theater, space-Nazi helmet, no John Tatooine: He needed a job. He intends the bare- FARCE Spalding Gray 101. Except Williams score, absolutely A theater graduate from the bones presentation to re- that this isn’t just any stage none of the droids you’re University of Victoria, Ross turn viewers to the state of show. It’s a piece of pop- looking for. Just a guy had discovered that acting childhood wonder endemic culture sanctity that’s nearly using his voice and body jobs aren’t that numerous. to the movies themselves. unimaginable without sets, language to do justice to a So he set out to create one. Your memory has to infill costumes, and props: Star galaxy far, far away: “It’s just It turned out to be pretty bits of narrative he had Wars. That’s right, Ross me doing the impressions easy to pack those three to elide, which it can do

MAY 2017 20 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY BRENT HOLMES comics for 20 bucks, and it would be a true LAUGH VEGAS walking festival. but comes home to Las Vegas to teach music in a portable trailer and to wrestle Crapshoot Comedy Festival ON THE INTIMACY OF THIS FESTIVAL with who she is. “It was true that her cofounder Paul Chamberlain They’re performing 20 minutes. It’s not one heart could still skitter unevenly if she talks about his audacious of those things were you go to a show and thought of the instant before Augusta Downtown event it’s like, Okay, I’ve gotta invest an hour, I really said yes to keeping her,” McBride writes, don’t know who this comic is, but I’ve heard reflecting on just one of the book’s dire about him — no. You’ll be able to see four of choices and fates. June wonders: “And Three nights, two-dozen comedians, and them, and mix and match throughout. several venues all within walking distance really, where was the moment that of each other on East Fremont. That’s the ON GETTING HEADLINER should have happened differently? first Crapshoot Comedy Festival, May 18-20 DAVE ATTELL Which was the choice that had set all the and headlined by Dave Attell, Tig Notaro That was a real get. That was a vote of others in motion? And would a different (pictured right), Bert Kreischer, and more. confidence from him, because we’re still choice have been the right one?” Paul Chamberlain and his wife, Kacky, who’d the only festival he’s doing in 2017. We plan Another lamentable choice leads previously put on comedy festivals and to treat that accordingly. It’s a very special Honorata Navarro from her village in the events in Maui, are behind it. Though they thing to us, especially with his connection to moved here from Maui last year, they’re not Vegas. Philippines to Manila, to Chicago, and strangers — they lived here 2008-2013. A eventually Las Vegas, where luck (and former tech-industry marketer and entertain- ON THE SCOPE OF THE FESTIVAL where else?) threads her fate into June’s ment journalist, Paul Chamberlain partnered It’s an audacious lineup, 27 comics, 32 shows and Coral’s. Honorata’s narrative also with Zappos, the El Cortez, and the city to — but it’s 6,000-8,000 tickets. Which, spread edges into that of Engracia Montoya, get this off the ground. We picked his brain. out over three nights, with different rooms, housekeeper at the El Capitan and native doesn’t mean 6,000-8,000 people. ON HAVING THE You don’t get a second chance with festi- of another long-ago Spanish colony. Her FESTIVAL DOWNTOWN vals. The first year has to leave a crater. It has undocumented husband has been de- I always had my eye on Downtown when to get noticed. The whole concept of Let’s ported, and her son has died after falling we were here. We came back last year, and try it with five comedians and do a room and off a skateboard. Honorata’s relating of I saw how much things had changed, and I this defuses the climactic face-off. said, “It’s time.” So we leveraged our success A gambling-addict Roman Catholic from Maui and notified the industry: “Hey, we’re back, and we’re gonna do it in Vegas priest occasionally drifts downstage as — but real Vegas, historical Vegas.” both witness and agent. Neither Father Burns nor McBride is preachy, but ON THE APPEAL OF COMEDY redemption in doing the right thing, the I have always been in love with stand-up solace of accepting fate, perhaps, echoes comedy. I regard it as the single greatest through ’Round Midnight. McBride American art form. I would be so bold as to say jazz comes in second. There’s just crafts passages of sterling imagery and something about stand-up, and the guts of diction, but can be self-consciously just standing up with a mic and making drunk writerly, too. Mostly, though, she tells an people laugh. honest Las Vegas tale about life and fate, I’m sure you’ve experienced it, when with characters, not caricatures. you’re in a room and the comic is hot and the room is well behaved and completely focused at that center stage, it’s magical. That’s what we want to try to reproduce. try to build it from there doesn’t work. You have to come in with a splash. ON WHETHER THE SPECTER OF THE because the SHORT-LIVED LAS VEGAS COMEDY ON SENSE OF PLACE films have FESTIVAL GIVES THEM PAUSE One of the things that is really special is “impreg- No. Actually, it was emboldening. that we have these immensely popular com- nated our Because (that) was the anithesis of ics coming, who have these great followings. imaginations.” what we wanted to do. It was a festival But then we’re doing a locals showcase. And “I can just make only in name. There was nothing inti- the local showcase is gonna be in the Zap- a reference and mate. It was an embarrassment of riches pos chambers (at 440 seats, the festival’s people will remember with all the names — Seinfeld and Bill Burr largest venue). We want to create this world- it.” Scott Dickensheets and John Oliver and Wanda Sykes — it was class, new destination, U.S. comedy festival just an amazing collection of talent. But a that’s still heavily anchored in the area. Scott 7p, May 13, Clark County lot of people, both in the industry and in the Dickensheets Library, free; 3p, May 14, general public, felt it was inaccessible. Windmill Library, free, We wanted to create that intimate club For a full schedule and ticket prices, see lvccld.org setting, where you would see four amazing crapshootcomedyfestival.com

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 21 ALL THINGS people

PROFILE Alexandra Arrieche MUSIC DIRECTOR, HENDERSON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA

lexandra Arrieche was always the shy kid in school. “Never bodies doing the conducting are the center of attention,” she says. Not exactly the type of per- still predominantly male. Women conductors have faced the predict- sonality, she admits, that you would expect of someone taking A able prejudice — that they lack the center stage as conductor of the Henderson Symphony Orchestra. proper gravitas, risk distracting their But when she got the chance to spend her afternoons at a musical male musicians, or should restrict conservatory, a rare opportunity in her native Brazil, something magi- themselves to certain composers cal happened. (Debussy yes, Stravinsky no). It “It was kind of like Harry Potter going to wizard school,” Arrieche wasn’t until 2007 that a woman con- says. At her personal Hogwarts, she began living a “double life.” She ducted a major American orchestra, became a focal point, cobbling together mini orchestras on the fly to when one of Arrieche’s mentors, perform music she had composed. No matter that an early ensemble Marin Alsop, took up the baton for was a bit dominated by the 10 friends who all happened to play the the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra. At just 35 years old, Arrieche is flute — she was making music, making magic. She was at the center. in the vanguard of a new generation of conductors. She is helping to expand the concept of who can create classical music, and wants to expand the concept of who can As a conductor and music context.” The conductor is the only enjoy classical music, as well. As director, that is still her role today. one who has the whole story, and a Brazilian, she did not grow up “Conducting is not only moving your she has to tell it to the musicians be- within a classical tradition that can arms!” she jokes. Offstage, there fore they can tell it to the audience. seem a bit “sacred” — exclusive, are all the aspects that come with Finally, there is the aspect even intimidating. helping to run an orchestra, from Arrieche likens to painting or “Music is for everybody,” she says. organizing rehearsals to fundraising, sculpture. She speaks of shaping the “We should not have any walls.” and the technical demands that re- music, of light and dark, of drawing That’s a fitting sensibility for the quire a conductor to internalize every out particular colors. Henderson Symphony Orchestra, note played by every instrument. But how does one get musicians which has all volunteer musicians In rehearsal, she likens her job to to play in a different color, exactly? and presents concerts for free. that of a theater director, with one “That’s the Harry Potter thing,” she Arrieche believes that music does key difference: Each musician has says. That’s where the magic happens. not need to be intellectualized or only a fraction of the score. Imagine “It’s incredible how just the pres- revered. It should be experienced each actor having a script with only ence of a different person (changes) and enjoyed — a little less sacred, a their own lines. Everyone knows the sound of the orchestra,” she says. bit more magical. Joseph Langdon when the queen is coming and when “Conducting is so physical. It’s body The Henderson Symphony the fight starts, she says, “but you language. … We have all different Orchestra will perform its season don’t know who you’re talking to. shapes and ways to move and express. finale at 8p, May 12, in the Hender- You don’t know if you’re happy, if Just that can make all the difference.” son Pavilion, 200 S. Green Valley you’re sad. You don’t have the It’s worth noting that the Parkway, hendersonsymphony.org

MAY 2017 22 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY LUCKY WENZEL MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 23 ALL THINGS open topic

SOCIETY

issue of our own Desert Companion Family: “The technology industry is so critical to everything we do today as a society. We have to build a workforce to fill jobs that don’t exist yet, and that we don’t even know the technology for yet. So we as educators have to start preparing our children.” Sim- ilar sentiments crop up everywhere, from legislative and social conversations about the school system to, say, the Nevada Sys- tem of Higher Education’s “New model for funding higher education in Nevada, which talks of “greater alignment with the state’s focus on economic development.” And I think, well, hold on a minute. Build a workforce — is that what school is for? By now you can see where this is going, and yes, I know we’ve got more pressing educational concerns than an overem- phasis on STEM. America’s students are middle-of-the-pack in international scho- lastic achievement. Nevada seems forever barnacled to the bottom of every educational ranking — Education Week gave us a D grade in January — while the Clark County School District lately seems to be continually restructuring, deconstructing, or suing someone. And all this unfolds amid a combative sociopolitical climate that imparts a grim, apocalyptic urgency to pretty much everything. Not the droids All true. Nonetheless, this STEM thing drives deeper than it first seems and, in fact, poses a question crucial to education you’re looking for in the 21st century, perhaps the crucial With graduation season almost here, a few reflections question: What do we want schools, from about STEM, the humanities and the whole point K-12 to higher ed, to do? of going to school anyway Build a workforce! might be your answer. And, sure, I feel you, to a degree. In this BY SCOTT DICKENSHEETS recession-singed, automated, offshoring era, it makes a certain kind of sense to aim students at high-tech jobs now that robots t’s not that I don’t get the value of STEM education. I do. As an adult who relies on are stealing the low-tech ones. At the same his kids to figure percentages and his grandkids to work the remote, I understand time, doesn’t that seem like such a narrow, I all too well the downside of lacking proficiency in Science, Technology, Engineering, limiting chute to herd our kids into? Trun- and (ugh) Math. Plus, what’s not cool about kids making robots? Soon enough, if it’s not dle dutifully toward your job, kids! It could already, technology will be to us what water is to the fish in that David Foster Wallace be that I just bunch up with old-fashioned parable, the one in which a fish asks, “What’s water?” That is, something truculence at the idea of so ubiquitous and necessary to life that it’s taken entirely for granted. So, in DISCLOSURE treating children as units theory, I’m down with the STEM. My wife works for of economic development, But then I see a quote like this, from an official with the Clark County School the school district, but, having put three sons though not in a District’s Community Partnership Program, which appeared last year in an capacity affected through the school district, by this argument; she had no hand in this piece.

MAY 2017 24 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS ILLUSTRATION BRENT HOLMES and with a glurge of grandkids soon to lege primarily in workforce terms, he says. follow, I still prefer the approach perhaps “We should be thinking about what kind of best articulated by Martin Luther King Jr.: citizens we want to live next door to.” “The function of education is to teach one Still, let’s look at it in workforce terms to think intensively and to think critically. for a minute. Because it’s not like the lib- Intelligence plus character — that is the eral arts are antithetical to the high-tech goal of true education.” Sounds like he’s workplace, no matter how many jokes you talking about creating good citizens, not crack about the job prospects of philoso- turning out worker drones. phy majors. (“You gonna think for a living, Dismiss me as a crazy idealist — you har har har!”) wouldn’t be the first — but I’m certainly not In December, David Kalt, founder of alone in thinking this way. A few months Reverb.com, an online marketplace, wrote ago, I talked to Jeremy Gregerson, head a blog post for The Wall Street Journal, of the Meadows School, about what he asserting that workers with liberal arts termed “the vocation-ization of education degrees are “by far the sharpest, best-per- in this country,” a growing sense among forming software designers and technology politicians, parents, some educators, and leaders.” Why? Liberal arts majors have some students themselves that “if you been encouraged in critical thinking, as can’t immediately apply it to a paying job, Gregerson and Ramsey both pointed out. it must not be worth learning.” So where “Critical thinkers can accomplish any- does that leave the softer disciplines of the thing,” Kalt says. (Ramsey: “I’d be willing humanities? to bet you can apply a philosophy degree to The embrace of STEM itself isn’t the a lot more careers than you can a mathe- problem, we agreed. He’s not advocating matics degree.”) I’ve seen plenty of similar an either/or situation. Technological liter- commentaries lately. acy is a good thing, as my granddaughter Kalt concludes, “I’m suggesting that if reminds me every time she hands back the more tech hires held a philosophy or En- remote. What’s worrisome is the fervor of glish degree with some programming on that embrace, and the way it retasks the the side, we might in the end create better purpose of education as an economic driv- leaders in technology and life.” er, and the devaluation of the humanities I particularly like the way he put tech- that sometimes goes with it. Consider this nology and life on equal footing. This is New York Times headline from last year: where we bend back to the main point, “A rising call to promote STEM education what I think is the overlooked thing in and cut liberal arts funding.” our rush to embrace STEM for the sake Yet, an education rich in humanities of Nevada’s economic future: As much as is, or should be, every bit as vital to a a good job, a good society is a desirable student’s future — and ours. “Computer educational goal, and that will ultimately science is important, and coding is im- require ever more thoughtful, multi- portant,” Gregerson says, “but without dimensional graduates. Because while adding creativity, and empathy, and an technology may be the water we live understanding of human communication, in, capitalism is still the fishbowl that coding and computer science don’t really contains it. And capitalism isn’t all that get you very far.” As one online commenter concerned about happy outcomes for the put it, “We’re investing so much into de- fish. It cares about production, consump- veloping the right side of our brains, we’re tion, and profits (mostly for the sharks). forgetting that it’s only half of what we Sure, prosperity can address some of our have to work with.” problems, but it can’t solve nearly all of Because this is a philosophical argu- them. Look around our strife-riven, us- ment, I brought this up to a philosopher. versus-them, anger-filled trollscape, and “What is the function of education?” tell me we couldn’t use waves of graduates wondered Bill Ramsey, a UNLV philosophy clomping offstage, diplomas or degrees in professor, when I asked him about it. It’s hand, who’ve been groomed to be creative, misguided to frame going to school or col- engaged citizens as well as drones.

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 25 FIELD NOTES

DOWNTOWN BLUES A prostitute, a fleeing perp, and hard-earned street smarts — on patrol with the Downtown command BY DAN HERNANDEZ

sight. The lot separating us is surround- ed by fencing — every 10 feet, fliers state “We Buy Houses / Fast Cash.” The girl is heading toward a Lowe’s parking lot. The home-improvement store has “no-tres- passing” signs posted specifically to allow cops to question suspicious loiterers; “Lowe’s hoes” is how some refer to them. We drive there in the police SUV and, sure enough, find her in the parking lot. Her eyes are half shut, tattoos blot her arms and neck, she’s 23 years old, and her name is not Cherish, but it’s a name like that — one meaning “beloved” and suggesting the opposite of a person used for an hour in a dingy flophouse.

***** ater on, I ask Perez, “Do you know how I got to do this?” At this point we’re L several hours into his shift and have already talked about work, family, relation- ships, life in Las Vegas, crime and punish- ment. Cops do so much car time alone that when they can talk, they talk. I’m the same way. But why I wanted to do a police ride- along is yet to come up. “The captain said you wrote some article?” We’re driving down Charleston. Perez has just shared that last night, on this street, he stopped a man walking toward a convenience store with a BB gun in his rom his car, Metro officer Aaron Perez focuses his binoculars on a young woman pocket. A background check revealed standing by a white picket fence outside the Lamplighter Motel. It’s a cold day, yet prior convictions for armed robbery — she’s wearing short shorts. Between her and us is a vacant lot — the last piece of specifically for stickups at convenience real estate on East Fremont before the city jurisdiction ends. Where she’s stand- stores. As he recalled it, Perez told the F ing, people arrested for nonviolent crimes such as prostitution rarely go to jail guy, “You haven’t done anything illegal, due to overcrowding in the Clark County penal system. Perez tells me that the pimps yet. Don’t go doing what I think you were and drug dealers Downtown know that, and it’s why they choose the Lamplighter. about to do.” I asked why he’d stopped the “It’s a daily-weekly, like a Siegel Suites. In the 12 years that I’ve been here,we get a lot of guy, and Perez said, “Jaywalking.” people who rent these rooms just to sell dope out of them for a week. You have pimps shack “Yeah, I wrote an article.” up there with their girls. Sometimes, it’s as bad as seven or eight girls on that corner, getting In the January issue of Desert Compan- in and out of cars.” ion, I shared a story about being stopped This girl is alone, and boards have gone up in the some of the Lamplighter’s windows. and frisked after crossing Las Vegas Bou- Metro is using civil forfeiture laws to “lean on” motels proven to cater to illicit activity. levard against a “don’t walk” signal. The The Safari Motel was recently shuttered, and the Lamplighter will go dark soon, too. jaywalking tale included comment from Perez is waiting to see if she “connects” with someone. But the girl steps out of a Metro spokesman, but more extensive

MAY 2017 26 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS ILLUSTRATION BRENT HOLMES Live Orchestral Screening The Loves of analysis came from a criminologist who said automatic body searches during Pharaoh routine stops do more harm than good. They rarely land weapons and erode public trust. Now, I wondered, was I being set up on this ride-along? After “Stopped and Frisked” came out, I’d been contacted by Capt. Andrew Walsh, the top cop in the Downtown Area Command. He invited me to coffee in the spirit of listening to critics and fostering community relations. We met at Publi- cUs, where he admitted that officers (and in particular younger officers) will sometimes over-enforce their orders. A call to The Henderson Symphony Orchestra performs one of the best film scores to a screening of this 1922 curb pedestrian fatalities had resulted in German historical classic. Follow the story of Pharaoh Amenes as King Samlak offers his daughter’s hand a wave of jaywalking tickets, yet giving in marriage as a proposal of alliance. Witness a story of love and war under the summer stars with a film billed as having one of the best original film scores of the silent era. warnings the way Perez did on Charles- ton can just as well suffice to prevent Friday, June 9 | 8pm those deaths. Knowing when to request a body search is another part of the job Henderson Pavilion | 200 S. Green Valley Pkwy. that takes some experience, Walsh said. Tickets start at $15 Given that my jaywalking stop took up cityofhenderson.com | 702-267-4TIX almost 30 minutes of two officers’ time, it Schedule is subject to change or cancellation without prior notice. Management reserves all rights. was obviously not the wisest use of police resources. This ride-along was arranged as a gesture of transparency, but also, I suspect, so that I might see what smart policing looks like. After all, I’m not cruising around with one of the department’s many rookie cops. Metro’s current hiring spree has brought on many officers in their early 20s for whom this is a first job. Perez, Home on the Range on the other hand, is a 13-year veteran of the force who previously worked for Where the deer and the antelope play…. sheriff departments in L.A. County and Tooele, Utah, in addition to being a Ma- rine Corps veteran of the war in Iraq. .… and drink WATER He’s 41, burly, and quick-witted. He has two kids, a Game of Thrones ringtone on his cell phone, and a keenness to joke Our wildlife, dark skies and small communities that his two statistical divorces are out depend on water. Learn how you can protect Nevada’s of the way — one for the military service and another for his police career. water sources at: GreatBasinWater.net/HealthyWaters During this shift, we respond to a do- mestic call in which the alleged aggressor is locked out of her apartment, weeping, barefoot and bleeding from the hand while dressed in nothing but a night- gown. In come reports of gunfire. We speed toward those with the windows down to better hear if shots ring out. And we catch the aftermath of a hit and run. The driver is several blocks away from the original accident and staggering from

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 27 FIELD NOTES

his wrecked car in a drunken fugue state. They care about how much money these arrested. But it’s hard to get him on any- But for this article, I want to focus on a girls make, and that’s it. When they get thing because he doesn’t engage in the act.” stop outside the Lowe’s on East Fremont. stopped, if he has a gun and a bunch of Perez is writing her a warning cita- dope on him, he’ll give it to her. Nine tion: loitering with the intent to engage ***** times out of 10 she’ll get pinched for it, in prostitution. The guy watches us ost shoppers ignore the girl in front and he’ll get off scot-free.” shiftily, his hands in his pockets. Then of the police SUV. Perez asks if she A man in a baggy tracksuit walks up to he walks toward us again, muttering M has any priors, and she mutters, us from the parking lot’s backside, claim- something about “a question.” Perez “Drug trafficking.” Back in the car as he ing to be her boyfriend. He has bloodshot steps out. “Hey, man, I told you to wait does a background check, Perez tells me, eyes. “Okay, but I need you to wait over over there!” Pretty soon, Perez is search- “A lot of these girls are just working for there,” Perez says, pointing to a planter ing the guy. He pulls a 9mm magazine their next hit.” The computer lights up 30 feet away. “Keep going. Further. Fur- from the man’s front pocket and reach- with recent charges for solicitation, but ther ...” The man grudgingly walks away. es for handcuffs, but the guy jerks free, there are apparently “way more” narcot- “Over by that tree. There you go.” breaking into a sprint. ics arrests. Cherish barely acknowledges her boy- Perez leaps after him. I see them run- “The fact that she’s out working the friend’s arrival. If anything, she seems ning through the parking lot and hear streets as a prostitute to me means she’s annoyed. Back in the car, Perez tells Perez’s voice over the police scanner not a dope dealer. I’d almost be willing me, “Most likely this guy’s her pimp. In breathlessly calling it in. The guy hops to bet my entire paycheck tomorrow street-level prostitution, the girl will walk in a white Volvo — Perez has his hand on that every dope charge she has was for around — he’ll be somewhere nearby so his holster, concerned, he tells me later, the man she held the dope for when he can see what car she gets into — and that the guy will drive at him or shoot. they got stopped. That’s what they do — then when she comes back, he’ll take all Perez yells the license plate number over these pimps don’t care about these girls. the money that she earned in case she gets his radio as the Volvo peels off.

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MAY 2017 28 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS YOU REALLY LOVE OUR Another set of tires squeal — an undercover cop at the other end of the lot fish- tailing after the Volvo. Perez jumps in his MAGAZINE. car to join in the pursuit, leaving Cherish NOW YOU CAN LOVE IT VIRTUALLY, TOO. behind. “The crime at this point is ob- struction,” he radios in. “The guy wouldn’t Visit us at desertcompanion.vegas and check out our website. Between editions of our Maggie Award-winning magazine, leave my stop.” We zigzag through traffic, you’ll get web-exclusive stories, breaking cultural news stop when we lose him, then receive a tip and fresh perspectives from our writers. from an oncoming motorist that a white car just sped onto the next street, which leads to a housing development. There, we meet up with the undercover unit, but the Volvo has disappeared. “God, that pisses me off!” Perez says. “It worried me that he wouldn’t leave my stop, and now I know why. He’s probably got a gun in his pocket.” We’re driving back to the Lowe’s parking lot to see if the guy is picking up Cherish. “Here’s the thing. If that guy’s gonna walk up to us like that, who else is he gonna walk Online up to? That guy is not gonna think twice before robbing that store, or robbing this guy on the corner, or robbing this family walking to the laundromat.” The 9mm magazine has only two isn’t in the rounds in it, but the gun it belongs to probably has a bullet in the chamber. “I just wish I would’ve pulled the gun out. But at least he didn’t, either. Any- time I can avoid a shootout with some- neighborhood. one, I’m happy. My kids like me coming home, for some reason.”

***** Whether you’re buying or selling a home, only a REALTOR® from the erez has been shot at nine times during his police career. Finding Greater Las Vegas Association of REALTORS® can turn the virtual into P ammo on the guy obviously put him into alarm mode. But even if he’d found the gun, that in itself wouldn’t justify an arrest a reality. Neighborhood knowledge. Up-to-the-moment information. in Nevada. Perez tried to put handcuffs, or “hooks,” on the man so he could do a background check; convicted felons are among And advice that comes from an ethical professional with experience the few Las Vegans barred from possessing firearms. But fleeing to his car pretty much and education. That’s the value of your REALTOR®—always your best negated the chance for an arrest. Metro has a policy against car chases for anything less than a violent crime or bet for all your real estate needs. drunk driving. Shortly after Perez called in the pursuit, he and an officer in the unmarked car were told to stand down. Apparently, what I saw was them holding back. And there lies the tension between what police see and feel on the street, and what the law and department policy will allow. From the beat cop purview, a YEARS IN SOUTHERN NEVADA HomeLasVegas.com

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 29 FIELD NOTES

potentially armed, aggressive pimp just said. “We arm our officers with intelli- “That’s a huge challenge for us. The fled a possible jail sentence. The cop wants gence: These are the bad guys, these are gun is not illegal in his car, even though to see the thing through. But from a legal their pictures, this is what they’ve been I can give you tons of cases this crew is standpoint, a guy interrupted a loiter- arrested for, this is who’s wanted. Right? involved in over the last 24 months that ing stop and ran to his car, and that’s not Just a ton of stuff so that when they go have touched our entire city. These are worth zipping through city streets for. out, they’re focused. You, Mr. Law Abid- the things that drain the resources of the I had asked Captain Walsh what the ing Citizen, are not our customer. And, lo police department and change neighbor- hardest thing about policing Las Vegas and behold, there’s Joe the Criminal out hoods. Before long, this guy is involved is, and without hesitation he mentioned driving a car. We stop him. He’s a docu- in some type of horrific event. He’s ei- the prevalence of guns combined with mented member of one of these crews ther dead, he kills somebody, or he kills loose firearm laws. that we know are shooting up houses and an innocent bystander. And when we In 2015, Governor Brian Sandoval shooting at each other. They’re involved look back we think, ‘Well, gee, we did signed a bill overturning handgun reg- in a lot of violent crime. Inside that car we stop him one time before. Where was the istration requirements in Clark County. find a loaded .45 caliber handgun. Inside opportunity to charge him with some- Many of the guns that criminals use are that car we also find graffiti implements thing substantial?’” acquired through burglaries, but since — magic markers. So what do you think Metro’s gun registry has been purged he goes to jail for? ***** and eliminated, it’s difficult to prove the “The gun is not required to be regis- he Volvo hasn’t returned to the weapons were stolen unless the original tered anymore. It’s not reported stolen. Lowe’s, and Cherish is gone. Perez owner kept the weapon’s serial number He doesn’t go to jail for anything related T retraces his steps to see if the guy and provided it during a robbery report that firearm — he goes to jail for having dropped anything in the lot. He also — a rare occurrence, I’m told. a f**king magic marker. The pen is dead- watches his body-camera footage to relay “There’s a story I’ll tell you,” Walsh lier than the gun. a better physical description of the guy to

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MAY 2017 30 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS A Mother’s Day Tradition

Without hesitation, Captain Walsh says the hardest thing about policing Las Vegas is the prevalence of guns Art Festival OF HENDERSON combined with loose firearm laws. May 13 & 14 | 9am - 4pm COMPLIMENTARY ADMISSION the other patrol units, and it only takes a few minutes for one of them to find Fine Arts & Crafts | Live Entertainment Cherish in the neighborhood that Perez uses to spy on the Lamplighter. We drive Interactive Imagination Station | Chalk Art Competition there. Henderson Events Plaza | 200 S. Water St. “What’s up, Cherish?” Perez says. “You wanna go home or you wanna go to jail?” She wants to go home. “You do? Because I wanna take your ass to jail. Where’s your boy at?” cityofhenderson.com | 702-267-5707 She doesn’t know. There are four pa- Schedule is subject to change or cancellation without prior notice. Management reserves all rights. trol cars guarding this quiet residential corner. Five officers, all male. “Where does he live?” She says Sahara and “that way,” and that’s it. “What’s his name?” She calls him Ross, but they just met this morning, she says, so she doesn’t know his last name. “Did you choose-up with him or is he your boyfriend?” Perez asks — meaning, are they a couple or do they work together? She won’t say. “Does he got a Facebook?” She’s not sure. “What’s his phone number?” She doesn’t have it. She doesn’t have a cell phone, anyway, but she does have a question: Why was there an undercover cop watching them in the Lowe’s parking lot? I wondered that myself. Turns out it was Perez’s friend who Water in our community is channeled into the storm showed up as a kind of preemptive backup drain and flows untreated to Lake Mead. As this water since he’s notorious for “getting into shit” — his own words. flows across the Valley, it picks up discarded trash and There is talk of putting Cherish in jail pollutants from cars, lawn fertilizers, pet waste, and to bait the guy into picking her up. But she hasn’t done anything to merit that, many other activities. Help protect the water quality of so eventually they let her go. No jacket, Lake Mead… the Valley’s main source of drinking water. no cell phone, nothing but a police cita- tion, and a detective’s phone number in her pocket, she walks off under the evening light. For more information “She ain’t giving him up,” Perez tells me. visit www.ClarkCountyNV.gov Since she didn’t cooperate, Cherish’s mis- keyword: water quality demeanor warning was escalated into a fine that can only be voided if she provides 702-668-8674

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 31 FIELD NOTES

information on the man. “That’s daddy, bro — she ain’t giving up daddy. Eventual- ly he would get out of jail, and he knows where she’s at. She ain’t risking her life.”

***** here are 70,000 residents in the nine square miles policed by the Down- T town Area Command. Between the I-15 and Mojave, Sahara to the south and Owens to the north—that’s the zone, and within it is one more place Perez can look for the guy. The Volvo’s license plate number was registered by a 50-year-old woman who lives one mile away, in an apartment complex near Charleston and the 95. As we drive there, Perez reflects on the moment when the guy walked up to us a second time. The brazenness of it still amazes him. “Things escalate like that in an instant. Had he turned around with a gun in his hand, I would have had about half a second to decide, am I shooting him or not? You don’t have time to take factors in, which kind of sucks. As quick as that guy took off running is about how fast we get into shootings around here.” I’m grateful to have ridden with a cop who didn’t agitate the situation further by pulling his gun. As the event unfold- ed, I had wondered what the best course of action was for myself. Duck? Get out and run? Fortunately, sitting in frozen panic was fine. “Now you know why you had to sign a waiver,” Perez says. We turn in to a cul-de-sac. It’s a row of two-story stucco apartment buildings with cracked walls, faded paint, splin- tered trim, and not a tree or plot of grass in sight. Perez uses the driver-side spot- light to check out cars and building numbers, alerting some of the tenants that a cop has arrived. Silhouettes fill windows and peek from behind curtains. A few people go out to the stairway landings to watch. The Volvo isn’t here. But Pe- rez will still knock on its owner’s door. First, he shows me the shotgun release button, “just in case you need to defend yourself.” I’m waiting in the SUV, next to the 12 gauge that I don’t know how, and certainly don’t want, to use. Something about it recalls a thing Walsh had said about the job’s extreme learning curve. I see Perez deal with

MAY 2017 32 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS potentially violent encounters, play both the good cop and bad cop during interro- gations, and, later on, mediate a domes- tic dispute that requires calming down a fiercely angry woman who kicked out her partner, yet refused to allow the woman to take luggage, or a jacket, or even shoes to the women’s shelter where she’ll stay the night. Perez is 41. I wonder how this all looks when a 22-year-old handles those stops. “A lot of police officers get hired between the ages of 21 and 25,” Walsh had said. “Think about this theoretically. If I get a 22- or 23-year-old police officer assigned to my area command, they’ll have to deal with issues like prostitution, drugs, gangs — the expectations for that young officer will be that he or she is a gang-intervention expert, a detective, a social worker. He’ll be a person who can deal with someone who is mentally ill and in a crisis. He’ll be able to walk into your home or mine and take charge of any situation — and a lot of times these situations may become violent in a heartbeat. We really have put a lot of pressure on police agencies to be the catch-all in society. We also want them to be highly educated, we want them to be compassionate, we want them to know and understand diverse cultures that they are going to come across, and for good reason, because we don’t want to offend people. You got all this in the brain of a person who’s 23 years old. It’s definitely challenging.” Perez talked to an older couple at the residence who claimed not to know the Volvo’s owner. They’ve lived at the address for almost two years, and the car was registered there last May, so he sus- pects they’re protecting someone. Maybe they got a warning call, he posits. “Unless these people just picked a bunk address to register the car to, which I doubt. “Chances are they’re family,” Perez says. He saw a resemblance and believes the people he just met were the guy’s parents. “For the most part, family’s not going to hang family out to dry. I understand that. Whether he’s a criminal or not, he’s still your family. It is what it is.” He speeds up behind every white Volvo we see for the rest of the night. “We’ll get him eventually,” he says.

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 33 TRAVEL

West world: The Pioneer Saloon in Goodsprings offers modern amenities with a backdrop of Wild West history.

more friends than you know what to do with. It’s magical.” DRUNK HISTORY The saloon had cast a spell on Shec- kells when he first ventured inside in Long after their mining boomtowns went bust, these rural bars 1991. Long fascinated by its history, he still serve brews and burgers — and a hair-raising ghost story or snapped up the property in 2006. Since two BY DAVE CLARK then, he says, he’s invested more than $2 million in preserving the building, and has launched a full-service restaurant, hether you’re into high-con- from 1915 hangs next to the punctures. gift shop, and expansive outdoor area cept mixology, fine wine or According to owner Noel Sheckells, the with fire pits. Karaoke (on Friday), live cheap suds, Vegas is a wor- shooting was ruled a justifiable homicide music, keg parties, haunted lock-ins, and thy drinking town. But you by Goodsprings’ justice system, since astronomy nights (with 18 commercial W can hit your favorite water- card shark Paul Coski was caught cheat- telescopes) fill the calendar. However, ing hole only so many times before you ing. Just about every Wild West story you Sheckells’ favorite is Thursday, which is start to miss a certain sense of adventure. can conjure likely happened here. fine dining night (complete with acoustic Luckily, there’s plenty to be had at one of “It was a rip-roaring town with up to music) in the Clark Gable-Carole Lom- Nevada’s many old boomtown bars. Their 8,000 miners at one time,” Sheckells says. bard Room. It is bedecked in memora- mining glory days may be well behind Goodsprings was the No. 1 lead-pro- bilia from the Hollywood power couple’s them, but they still serve cold beer, juicy ducing area during World War I, frenet- 1940s heyday. Gable left his own mark on burgers, and great atmosphere. ically delivering materials for bullets. At the saloon: His cigarettes burned holes one time, Sheckells says, an entrepreneur in the bar in 1942 as he anxiously waited PIONEER SALOON supplied more than 200 prostitutes to the three days for word of the fate of Lom- Where stargazers, history-lovers, and workers, which proved another source of bard, whose plane had crashed on nearby ghost-hunters become good friends town friction: A scrap over the affections Mount Potosi. of a working girl spurred another saloon Film buffs, history lovers, bikers and The Pioneer Saloon is perhaps the state’s death. Today, the atmosphere in one of ghost hunters from around the world are most notable haunt in more ways than the oldest stamped-tin structures in the drawn to Goodsprings, whose population one. For starters, the 103-year-old saloon U.S. is much more amiable, starting with has shriveled to just 200. It’s hosted mov- has a killer atmosphere, enhanced by the Sheckells himself. ie shoots, truck commercials, and, per- bullet holes pockmarking the walls — the “It’s the friendliest place on earth,” he haps the oddest, a gathering for Swatch result of an infamous card game gone says. “People come in not knowing each aficionados. (Every year, the company fatally bad. In fact, the coroner’s report other, and by the time you leave, you have takes its biggest spenders to an exotic lo-

MAY 2017 38 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY JENNA DOSCH The LOVEThe LOVE story story

cale, one year choosing Pioneer Saloon.) Sheckells’ sons have also enjoyed the saloon’s ever-growing notoriety: One now runs the bar, and the other is a chef who directs the restaurant. Along with the familial atmosphere, Sheckells most en- joys entertaining travelers from around the world who discover this rough-cut gem of Nevada mining history. “All the people I get to meet is fantastic,” he said. “I love to engage with people and give them a free tour.” Plus, he’s committed to preserving Pi- oneer Saloon’s history as the oldest continually operating saloon and restaurant BehindBehind the LOVE the storyLOVE story in Clark County and, perhaps, the state. Sheckells even refused entreaties from the show “Bar Rescue” to revamp the building, which was originally ordered and shipped via train from Sears, Roe- buck & Co. For Sheckells, the past is his SHAKESPEARESHAKESPEARE IN LOVE Regional IN LOVE Premiere Regional Premiere present to patrons. “It’s one of Southern Nevada’s nic- est treasures,” he says. “It’s something 2017 Plays2017 – June Plays 29 to –Oct. June 21 29 to Oct. 21 that should be here for a long time. The younger generation gets to come and ex- As You Like It As You Like It Treasure Island Treasure Island perience the Old West.” Shakespeare in LoveShakespeare in LoveThe Tavern The Tavern (In Goodsprings, 310 NV 161, 702-874- 9362, pioneersaloon.info) Romeo and Juliet Romeo and JulietWilliam Shakespeare’sWilliam Long Shakespeare’s Lost Long Lost Guys and Dolls Guys and Dolls First Play (abridged) First Play (abridged) A Midsummer Night’sA Midsummer Dream Night’sHow Dreamto Fight LonelinessHow to Fight Loneliness HAPPY BURRO CHILI & BEER This old Beatty haunt has a spicy secret The GreaterThe Escape. Greater Escape. While a taste of Wild West lore is the most celebrated aspect of the Pioneer Saloon, Happy Burro has garnered its fame from its storied, award-winning chili. Conveniently situated outside of Death Valley (and the ghost town of Rhyolite), Happy Burro Chili & Beer is 800-PLAYTIX | BARD.ORG

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 39 TRAVEL

a must-stop for famished hikers. It also years of traveling, they’ve Vintage spirits: Left Pioche, about two and a serves as a daily gathering place for settled comfortably into top and bottom, the half hours northeast of some of the most welcoming residents of the small-town charms of Happy Burro in Beatty Las Vegas. In fact, when Beatty (population 1,000). Owners Patti Beatty. They’ve also grown is known for its chili; checking in, you’re ad- top and right, Pioche’s and Fred Summers had been competi- fond of “Sarah,” a benevo- vised to tell the front desk historic Overland Ho- tion chili cooks looking to retire, when lent ghost they share their if you are looking for a tel & Saloon; bottom they eyed a former mining district office historic home with. Their left and right, Bonnie “ghost-free stay.” That’s dating to 1906. Upon moving from Cali- introduction was swift: “I Springs Ranch offers because Pioche quickly fornia, they promptly stripped the inside was falling one day, then all history, live music and earned a reputation as to its original appearance, while liv- of a sudden I had a hand on plenty of emus to pet. one of the most cutthroat ing in the former hotel they purchased my arm to steady me and towns in the Old West: next door. “My husband is quite good hold me up,” Summers says. The tight- According to local lore, 72 men were at building things,” Patti Summers says. knit community they’ve become a part killed in gunfights before the town’s (That includes the one-of-a kind urinal of plays an equally supportive role. “I first natural death occurred. in the men’s restroom, which flushes via have a lot of friends who come over, One of the men murdered was the actual motorcycle handle bars.) have a beer and visit,” Summers says. great-grandfather of retired bartender While the restaurant is rather simple “There’s a lot of camaraderie between Jim Kelly, who is also a noted local his- inside (four barstools and a table), the everybody.” (In Beatty, 100 W. Main St., torian. “There were almost 100 saloons Summers found that mastering the art of 775-553-9099) here during its heyday, and almost as chili can be a complex science. “It took many houses of ill repute,” he says. me a year to come up with a recipe that I OVERLAND HOTEL & SALOON Silver was discovered in Pioche in like,” says Summers, who’s been cooking Steeped in history, this Old Nevada 1864; the deposit ranked second only chili for nearly 25 years. hotel and saloon attracts spirited to the Comstock Lode. The popula- Their passion was first stirred when company tion then swelled to more than 10,000, Fred entered a small cookoff where he peaking in the 1870s. The town’s for- met an official from the International If you’re seeking something truly other- tunes fluctuated throughout the years, Chili Society. Since then, they’ve satis- worldly, you’d be hard-pressed to saddle according to Kelly, as the area became fied their craving for competition, criss- up somewhere more steeped in spirits the second-largest producer of zinc and crossing the globe with their chili. After than the Overland Hotel & Saloon in lead during World War II. (Now, Pioche

MAY 2017 40 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS Old Nevada, a mock- 1880s Wild West town featuring staged hang- Financial options ings, gunfights, and melodramas. Later they for every phase expanded to include a 50-room motel as well as a petting zoo with of your life more than 20 species of animals, including more than 70 peacocks, a lynx, and an emu. And those sights include the only boasts roughly 700 residents.) Kelly panorama of Red Rock Canyon, tower- moved to Pioche from Las Vegas 15 years ing above the town, as well as a night ago. It was a homecoming of sorts, with sky that’s light years away from the ob- two of his great-grandparents hailing scuring Vegas haze. Ensconced in its from Pioche. He was giving tours at the sylvan surroundings, the ranch offers town’s famed million-dollar courthouse horse rides and rock climbing, while the (built in 1871 and not paid off till 1936) saloon showcases karaoke on Fridays when he was called to fill in at the sa- and live music on Saturdays. (That’s not loon. “I had never bartended before in to mention the newest attraction, Zom- my life,” he says. bie Paintball Express, held the last Sat- But he poured himself into the job urday of the month, where visitors duel Whether you want to save for and the history of the Overland, which zombies from the confines of a bus.) the future, secure a personal was erected in the early 1900s, but suc- Beneath the modern amenities, how- loan, utilize exclusive online and cumbed to fire in 1947 and was rebuilt. ever, are layers of history. “That’s due telephone banking services, or Highlights of today’s incarnation in- to the fact that this place used to be a enjoy the convenience of our clude 12 themed hotel rooms (from stopover for wagon trains going through Anasazi to Victorian) along with the an- the Old Spanish Trail,” explains events ATMs and many locations, we tique, three-part bar. Portions of it were manager Tim Harrison. “They would re- are here for you. Call, click, or shipped from McGill and the Mt. Wil- supply themselves here with water.” stop by and talk with a banker. son Ranch, while one section originat- Plus, a Paiute Indian burial ground is ing from San Francisco dates from the nearby. Often, Harrison is the last one to wellsfargo.com 1850s. Also still standing on the prop- depart the ranch following conventions, erty is an old miner’s rock house from weddings, and other special events, the 19th century. That relic is a reminder which can make for eerie experiences. that the town’s Wild West ways are now “There’s a little girl by the school house, permanently retired, as are many of the several apparitions at the opera house,” saloon’s patrons. “There’s a gathering of he says. “You hear all kinds of stuff.” guzzling geezers almost everyday, and Nods to the area’s history can be also I’m one of them,” Kelly says. be found in the museums, one featuring (In Pioche, 662 Main St., 775-962- 1800s-era wax figures and the other 5895, overlandhotelnv.com) housing turn-of-the century artifacts. The modern history continues as well BONNIE SPRINGS RANCH with two of Levinson’s children running The drama of the Old West lives on the ranch. Few could have envisioned (also, feel free to pet the llamas) what it was to become when Bonnie was fortuitously shown the property af- While many decaying desert towns ter arriving in town to sell her Califor- mine their boom-and-bust history, nia-bred turkeys. Bonnie Springs’ attractions are of a Today her dream of a family-friendly more recent vintage. Bonnie Levinson Western town keeps one boot planted bought the property near Red Rock in proudly in the past, even though it’s just 1952, when it comprised a restaurant, a few paces from Las Vegas. “You can’t bar, and small house with no electrici- get that unique character in many plac- All loans are subject to application, credit ty. In 1974, she and her husband opened es,” Harrison says. qualification, and income verification. © 2017 Wells Fargo Bank, N.A. All rights reserved. Member FDIC. (3686202_19725)

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 41 SOCIETY

We have celebrities who are performing every night here, and we have fights that IT CAN HAPPEN are going on, and we’re probably going to have the Raiders team. That brings an in- flux — a demand — and people think this is the adult playground. Whatever happens TO ANYONE here, stays here. You can call this number Sex trafficking takes place every day just under the surface of and get a girl to your door. But guess what? ‘normal’ life — but people like activist Adia Lancaster work to These escorts also have pimps. The girls make it less normal in the strip club, these girls, often, their BY ERICA VITAL-LAZARE pimps are right there. Those massage par- lors — those girls are being trafficked. So sk Adia Lancaster what human (who coerce by seduction or by force, it’s like how do we fight this mindset of, trafficking looks like, and she respectively) operating below the surface ‘Come, whatever you want, you can have. will tell you: It looks like you and of normalcy in a society programmed to We allow it.’” it looks like me. “Gated commu- excuse itself and turn the other way. Lancaster hopes to combat the issue and A nity. Henderson. Summerlin. “Las Vegas is such a unique city,” says the mindset through public awareness. Middle-class family. It doesn’t matter. It Lancaster, 38, project director of New Sunday mornings often find her in local can happen to anybody. You have to ac- Hope Foundation International (NHFI), churches delivering talks on human traf- cept that and take proper precautions.” a nonprofit organization dedicated to ficking to wide-eyed congregants, after She will go on further to say human traf- navigating survivors to services and edu- having spent Saturday night working out- ficking looks like prostitution. It looks cating the public. “Our numbers keep in- reach on Fremont Street with NHFI staff like a step into a parallel universe pop- creasing for the visitors we get each year. and volunteers, handing out brochures to ulated by “Romeo” and “gorilla” pimps We’re having conventions every weekend. tourists, and engaging with locals.

MAY 2017 34 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY AARON MAYES It was on one of those evenings, late last year, that NHFI volunteers were approached by a young woman on the corner of Las Vegas Boulevard and Fre- mont. She said she wanted to get out. NHFI volunteers took her to Safe Nest that night and the next day bought the young woman a bus ticket back home to California. “She saw us out there many times before,” Lancaster says, “and when she found the opportunity, she seized it.” Lancaster counts that evening as a victory in the fight against those who would exploit another human being as a disposable com- modity in our streets and in our homes, in adult video chat rooms and Strip hotels, and also in the battle against a culture of shame and judgment that can look at the shadowed figures tottering on high heels on Fremont Street, or biding their time in lounges along the Strip, and “make the assumption that this condition of slavery is in any way voluntary.” “Know that that girl right there, the one you’re pointing to, she’s 13 years old and she has a pimp, and she is forced to do that. She has to make a thousand dol- lars that night before she can come home and sleep or eat. That’s the reality. And the reality is that the youngest girl Met- ro has found out there (in 2015),” Lan- caster says, “was 11 years old.”

There is something both disconcerting and comforting in sitting across from Adia Lancaster in New Hope’s Downtown Las Vegas Boulevard offices. She is at once the most calming presence you will ever encounter and the most impassioned. There is something tastefully ascetic and disciplined in her bearing, which may have come from a father who was a long- time educator, a Marine, and a one-time seminarian. Hair pulled back from the high bones of her face, fitted jacket con- trasting with pleated slacks in slate, she is uniformed, and when she says it’s the aim of organizations like New Hope and sister programs Purple WINGS, Rape Crisis Center, Salvation Army SEEDS of Hope, and Center 4 Peace/Embracing Project to bring awareness and end trafficking, you know she possesses the will and the pa- tience to see it through. “When I connect with survivors, it is more about: How can

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 35 SOCIETY

“It doesn’t matter if we legalize prostitution,” we support you? What can the communi- Lancaster says. “In many ways it’s like ty do? And how can we share your story, putting out a welcome mat for trafficking to your experience in a way that is sensitive, trauma-informed; getting their wisdom.” flourish. ... A child never grows up saying, In keeping with United Nations pro- ‘I want to do this.’” tocols, the NHFI website defines human trafficking as “the recruitment, transportation, transfer, harboring, or receipt began as an organization called Con- of rape each day — that called for then of persons, by means of the threat or use go Justice in the aftermath of the 1994 Secretary of State Hillary Clinton to act of force or other forms of coercion, of Rwandan genocide. Japanese filmmak- on the law and withhold funds. It was abduction, of fraud, of deception, of the er Richard Fujita was living in L.A. and during an event for Congo Justice in abuse of power or of a position of vulner- watching the horrors unfold on the eve- March 2012 at UNLV that Lancaster in- ability or of the giving or receiving of pay- ning news. “I wondered what the U.N. troduced the topic of sexual violence not ments or benefits to achieve the consent could do to stop it and make sure it did only in the Congo, but in our global com- of a person having control over another not happen again, then I wondered what munity. “We bridged what is happening person, for the purpose of exploitation.” I could do.” Fujita’s first efforts were in locally with sexual violence and human “It doesn’t matter if we legalize pros- funding farming and sustainability in trafficking, and we had survivors speak, titution,” Lancaster says, thinking of the the Congo. It was during this time that and a former vice detective and politi- 15 counties in Nevada where prostitution he noticed the ways in which sex was cians. We realized it was important.” is legal, and brothels like the Moonlight weaponized, in the form of exploitation Congo Justice became the New Hope Bunny Ranch and Sheri’s Ranch Broth- and rape, by one village against anoth- International Foundation, and in 2013 el have operated legally since 1971. “In er. After he moved to Las Vegas in 2010, the organization produced the docu- many ways it’s like putting out a welcome his work continued. It also became clear mentary Surviving Sin City: The Power mat for trafficking to flourish,” Lancast- that the global issue had a parallel closer Lies in a People United. The 30-minute er says. “It’s really fighting that mindset, to home. “In Las Vegas you could see the film weaves a seamless tapestry of survi- and we have to say, ‘No, we’re not going to same type of human trafficking, using vor testimonials with community lead- call this prostitution,’ because there is no sex for the benefit of destroying life.” The ers, such as Lieutenant Karen Hughes such thing. A child never grows up say- green hills and carnage of east Africa may of Metro’s vice and narcotics division, ing, ‘I want to do this. I want to be a pros- seem far from our Southern Nevadan ex- Alexis Kennedy of UNLV’s criminal titute.’ They are sex trafficking victims. perience, but Adia, along with Fujita, felt justice department, Assemblyman John And when we look at that 11-year-old, it was all a circle, an open loop of shared Hambrick, and Chris Chapel, lead pastor we want to use the term the commercially cause, shared circumstance. of Casa de Luz. coerced, sexually exploited child because “At the time there was a bill that Obama As sexualized violence had become they are victims of this atrocity.” had passed that became a law,” recalls normalized in Congo, many of us were, Lancaster. “We were getting signatures and continue to be, unaware of how nor- Lancaster’s own childhood was an to D.C. to implement a portion of the malized a certain brand of exploitation uncommonly balanced one. Born in Cal- law that says our allies like Rwanda and and accompanying violence has become ifornia to an African-American father Uganda have a part to play in stopping ex- in our own backyards. “That’s still a very who firmly believed in education, and a ploitation in the Congo.” The Democratic challenging thing,” Lancaster says, re- deeply involved mother from the Philip- Republic of Congo Relief, Security and garding the ways we see and yet refuse to pines, she and her sister were raised in a Democracy Promotion Act of 2006 was see it. “A lot of our mass media desensi- home filled with love and discipline, and co-sponsored by Senator Hillary Clinton, tizes us to objectifying women, violence it shows. Lancaster graduated from the and it called for a halt to sexual violence against women and the masculinizing of University of California, San Diego with perpetrated against women and children our young boys. We’re fighting against a degree in human development, and in the Democratic Republic of Congo. what’s being portrayed out there.” pursued nonprofit work out of a desire The bill goes on to recommend that the Perception is everything when it to help the vulnerable and the voiceless. secretary of state withhold assistance — comes to reframing prostitution as hu- She says that while she does not have a the appropriated $52 million for fiscal man trafficking in the public mind. Dan- story of direct victimization, what she year 2006 — if the secretary determines iele Dreitzer of the Rape Crisis Center has is a belief that security, fresh oppor- that the government of the Democratic sees the misjudgment in the judgment tunity and a restoration of self is a right Republic of the Congo is not making suf- we assign. Like Lancaster, Dreitzer un- we should all hope to attain for men and ficient progress toward accomplishing derstands the fragile thread of human- women who have been pushed outside the policy objectives. ity that stretches between the teetering of safety, pushed outside of community Lancaster and other victims’ rights woman in heels on Fremont, the girls and “pushed outside of the possession of advocates sent forward a petition, en- brought in from California and sold on a their own bodies.” titled Petition 1152 — the number of dream of a false Romeo’s love and riches, New Hope Foundation International women in the Congo who were victims the homeless teen coerced into selling

MAY 2017 36 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS his body by a family member or trusted tims around the world being sold and ex- poor, minority. We have to hold them friend, and the Rwandan mother whose ploited. Here, Metro has recovered 2,229 accountable, but the point is, what are brutal violation is part of the spoils of victims of sex trafficking since 1994. Just we doing to the people who come to Ve- war. “We’re so inclined as a society to last year, it recovered 107 children vic- gas to buy sex from our children?” look at individual issues as sort of a slice, timized by human traffickers. Lancaster acknowledges the perfect or a piece of a pie, but the whole pie fits Other grim numbers were released storm of factors that caused Arizona together. Every trafficking victim has in February as Arizona State University State to conduct such research with our been a victim of sexual assault,” Dre- researchers completed a yearlong study city at its center, and she points to one itzer says. “Whether there was money of sex trafficking in Las Vegas. They of the testimonials featured in the doc- exchanged in a situation doesn’t change found that two-thirds of the victims umentary Surviving Sin City. In it, the the fact that they ultimately have not were younger than 18, and one in five mother of a Centennial Hills high school consented to what is going on. Even was brought to Las Vegas from else- student who was trafficked warns us of when they’ve been coerced into thinking where. Out of the 159 cases Las Vegas the three things traffickers rely on, “Our that they’ve consented.” police identified as cases of sex traf- ignorance that this is not happening, so Dennis Hof, owner and operator of ficking, nearly three out of four were that they can continue doing it. Our de- the Bunny Ranch, stresses the distinc- not prosecuted, often because victims nial so that we say, ‘No, this can’t happen tions between legalized prostitution and feared reprisal from pimps. Esther Ro- to me,’ and then our inaction. We don’t trafficking as ones of safety and choice. driquez Brown of the Embracing Proj- want Las Vegas to represent this, and we “There are no underage girls in legal ect finds the numbers frustrating. “My have to be the ones who say it.” brothels,” he says. “Every worker who problem is we don’t do anything with comes in must come in with positive ID the demand. I know that pimps should To report instances of human trafficking, and fingerprints verified by the sheriff’s be incarcerated, and traffickers, but call local authorities, the National Human department. The sheriff also talks to when you talk about sexual exploitation Trafficking Resource Center Hotline these women, privately, so that they are in our city, most of the pimps come from at 888-373-7888, or the Department of free to say, ‘I want to be here,’ or ‘I don’t the same background as our girls — Justice Hotline at 888-428-7581. want to be here.’ Our system works. It is the only thing that will cut down on sex trafficking. If a consumer has a choice between legal and illegal, he is going the “A comprehensive history of Nevada’s sagebrush heart.” legal route.” —Cyd McMullen, Great Basin College

In 2013, Lancaster was recognized by former Attorney General Catherine Cor- tez Masto, now Senator Cortez Masto, for the impact NHFI made in bringing greater awareness of the issue of human trafficking to the community. The recognition came during the 77th session of the Nevada Legislature as Masto in- troduced and helped pass Assembly Bill 67, which was signed into law and took effect on July 1, 2013. The law establish- es the sex trafficking of children and adults as a crime, makes victims eligible for state assistance, and allows them to sue their traffickers. January was National Human Traf- ficking Awareness Month. A new PSA campaign featuring Attorney General Adam Laxalt was screened to a gathering of social workers, community organizers, and vice officers in Metro’s Downtown headquarters. Produced by the Nevada Broadcasters Association and the offices of the attorney general, the series of an- nouncements feature Laxalt unraveling the numbers: There are 21 million vic-

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TABLE FOR TWO 48 OUR CITY'S BEST SPOTS TO EAT & DRINK

Sideburns and swizzle sticks: A scene from the Starboard Tack in 1973. The storied

PHOTO COURTESY OF MILO KOSTELECKY OF MILO COURTESY PHOTO bar has reopened.

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 43 DINING OUT

Old navy: The Starboard Tack’s nautical theme sails again, from its fish and chips (left), rattan furniture and rum cocktails such as the El Marinero (below). Far right, co-owners Lyle Cervenka, left, and Bryant Jane. Below right, Starboard Tack owner Bob Kostelecky, left, surveys the bar’s popular salad bar in a 1973 photo.

THE DISH spots. Tucked among nondescript apart- ments off Sahara and Pecos, the original Starboard Tack opened in 1971. Under COME Bob Kostelecky, who purchased the bar-restaurant in 1973, the place quickly became known for its generous pours, SAIL fresh seafood, graveyard specials, and lively clientele. “The main improvement was giving ev- AWAY erybody a fair-sized drink. They called it a bucket,” recalls Judy Stewart, Kost- The storied Starboard Tack returns elecky’s spouse at the time. “It was usual- for another voyage — rum, rattan ly a two-hour wait for dinner,” she adds. and all BY MISTI YANG One reason for the wait: The Kost- eleckys had a friend in La Jolla who would send fresh swordfish to the Starboard Vegas history’s darker chapters. It was the as Vegas is more nostalgia than Tack twice a week. Legend has it that site of an attempted car-bombing in Janu- city at times, considering people’s entertainers from Bobbie Gentry to Rin- ary 1977, presumably stemming from a la - endless fascination with the era of go Starr would end up at the Starboard bor dispute between the restaurant and the mobsters, eccentric millionaires Tack on the graveyard shift for a round Culinary Union, then led by the pugnacious L and raucous Rat Pack misadven- of drinks and a “Bait Plate” featuring filet Al Bramlet, whose body was discovered in ture. Icons such as The Sands, The Mint, mignon tips. Another late-night tradition: the desert outside Vegas a month later. (One The Desert Inn and The Stardust were furtive trysts in a booth hidden behind theory is that Bramlet had refused to pay the usually the center of the action, but there the bar. And the Starboard Tack’s legend- arsonists for the defective bomb, for which were countless watering holes off the ary annual Halloween party was noth- he paid the ultimate price.) But such drama Strip where the party continued after ing less than a freewheeling, costumed only seemed to fuel the Tack’s allure. In fact, the show was over. bacchanal. Kostelecky eventually opened a sister restau- The Starboard Tack was one of those The Starboard Tack also figures into rant on West Sahara, the Port Tack.

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makes a statement. ‘WE FELL IN LOVE WITH IT’ knew the history of the Starboard Tack,” ulling back from the business, Kost- Jane says. “I had never been, but I had be a patient. elecky leased out the Starboard been to the Port Tack. It was one of the donate. P Tack in 1990, and the new operators fancy places you go to when you’re young volunteer. changed the name to Gilligan’s Hideaway in Las Vegas.” take action. in the late 1990s. When Gilligan’s Hide- Jane and Cervenka aren’t new to the away closed last year after a run as a re- bar business; most recently, they were spectable neighborhood bar, it was a fate- partners in the short-lived amaro bar Re- ful moment for two locals who’d dreamed troscena in the back of Radio City Pizza of reviving the Starboard Tack. downtown. In landing the storied space, it “We were coming in and checking also helped that Jane and Cervenka had a out Gilligan’s, and we fell in love with connection: They knew Bob Kostelecky’s it,” says Bryant Jane, who co-owns the son Milo, who owns the building. “They new Starboard Tack with Lyle Cerven- were ahead of the curve, because they ka. Jane is a Las Vegas native familiar would ask me questions about the old Learn more about how you can with the original Starboard Tack and Starboard Tack, and they were curious its lore; Cervenka was lead bartender if it was ever going to become available support your local Planned

HISTORIC PHOTO COURTESY OF STARBOARD TACK OF STARBOARD COURTESY PHOTO HISTORIC at Velveteen Rabbit for several years. “I again to lease,” says Milo. Parenthood. bit.ly/wecaresouthernnevada

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 45 DINING OUT Hyper link: The Starboard Tack’s hot dog TROPICAL VIBE is infused with The Starboard Tack had its soft Asian flavors. opening in March, and the result of Jane and Cervenka’s work is a retro reviv- al complete with floral wallpaper, rattan furniture, a tropical cove mural by local artist Spencer Olsen — and the bar’s original stained-glass boat scene that began its life behind the bar almost 50 years ago. “Everything has a good tropical vibe,” says Cervenka. This extends to both the beach-worthy cocktails and the food. A rum bar was a natural fit for the nautical theme. “It’s a rum bar, 100 percent,” says Jane. The Black Tot Last Consignment Royal Naval Rum is just one bottle behind the bar that collection from Retroscena.) it brings back the top-quality seafood the backs him up. The $1,000-per-bottle Black The dining menu includes bar staples original Starboard Tack was known for. Tot is from the British Royal Navy’s remain- such as a burger and fish and chips, but “We still want to keep that neighborhood ing stock from the days when it used to is- there are tropical twists, too, with a Thai bar feel,” says Jane. “That’s our essence sue daily rum rations to sailors. Of course, hot dog and a spicy West Indies fried chick- more than anything else.” It’s a perfect fit beyond the rum drinks, there’s a full bar as en sandwich. The Pu-Pu section is more for the return of an institution that began well. (And they also brought their amaro adventurous; with daily oysters and poke, in the same spirit.

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MAY 2017 46 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS EAT THIS WHEN? EAT THIS NOW!

Lyonnaise Salad at Andre’s Bistro & Bar 6115 S. Fort Apache Road, andresbistroandbar.com

When a bowl of leafy greens takes its moniker from a world capital of gastrono- my — Lyon, France — it’s sure to be substantial. The Lyonnaise Salad at Andre’s Bistro & Bar lives up to the reputation with epicurean aplomb … and lots of lar- dons. Crispy chunks of pork belly are topped with light, snappy frisée endive and a soft-poached egg. A zingy warm sherry vinaigrette brings everything together. Just puncture the egg, swirl the ooey-gooey yolk around, and devour everything with Gallic gusto. A crusty baguette with salted butter comes on the side, as does a charming tray of cornichons and pickled onions with Dijon mustard. You can call it a bacon ’n’ egg salade if you want; we won’t tell the Académie Française. Greg Thilmont

Cocktail of the THE WHITE LINEN AT month TURMERIC: FLAVORS OF INDIA Don’t be put off by the oonsta thunderbeats shaking the sidewalk outside Turmeric; inside, the music is muted, turning the restaurant into a fun Fremont East people-watching fishbowl with a soundtrack. Class up the gawking with The White Linen. It presents just like the name: crisp and refined. The base is floral Hendrick’s Gin, sweetened with elder- flower and tinged with lavender. Classy, sure, but not stuffy: Go ahead, no judgment here, have another. Andrew Kiraly 700 Fremont St., 702-906-2700 SALAD: CHRISTOPHER SMITH; COCKTAIL: BRENT HOLMES SMITH; COCKTAIL: CHRISTOPHER SALAD:

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 47 DINING OUT

Pig, a pair of small shredded-pork heaps in a traditional eggs Benedict setup.) Andrew: (chew-murmuring — chewmuring?) Oh, my God. That’s good. Salty, shredded pork. Eggy, bready goodness. See, our instincts are telling us to eat the savory first, because we are unconscious- ly registering this (gestures at pancakes). (More chewmuring.) Andrew: There’s something satisfying when you spear a chunk of egg and bread and it hangs off your fork like you tore it off an animal that you hunted down. Primal! Waitress: (sidling up.) So, what do we think? Andrew: Great so far! We’re working up Hawaii doing? to the pancakes as the grand finale. Clockwise from top: The Kalua Pig benedict; Pistachio Crème (Bob Marley comes on the sound system pancakes; Guava to tell us he hopes we like jammin’, too.) Chiffon pancakes Andrew: (trying some kimchi fried rice) Pretty good! But I’m going to hit it with some hot sauce, hashtag dontjudgeme. CINNAMON’S Scott: I won’t unless you put it on the LAS VEGAS pancakes. I might get a little judgey then. 7591 W. Washing- Andrew: Mmm, not bad. I almost want ton Ave. #110 a little more kimchi pop. This is more like a 702-478-7027 strongly worded letter suggesting kimchi. cinnamonsvegas. com TABLE FOR TWO (Guava Chiffon pancake time!) Andrew: Let’s just look at this in all its glistening, diabetic glory! Now, I’m gonna shove this in my face. (Shoves.) Mmm ... oh! MORNING Andrew: My pancre- (chewmuring indicating joy) ... as is salivating insulin in Bob Marley: We’re jammin’, we’re jam- anticipation! min’, and I hope this jam is gonna last ... DELIGHT Andrew: It’s like a vending machine Life’s a griddle at the island-styled Cinnamon’s, Andrew: I’m not a big of candy dumping into my mouth hole — breakfast person. I usu- that’s a good thing. This is a gooey, sinful, where there’s a cool hotcake for every taste ally just have a function- indulgent pancake. BY ANDREW KIRALY & SCOTT DICKENSHEETS al, soylent-like smoothie, Scott: Very good. And we should note, with green stuff in it. So for journalistic purposes, that it’s the size Open on interior of Cinnamon’s Las Ve- this will be an indul - of a Fiat hubcap. gas, a newish Hawaiian-style casual eatery gence. Are you a big pancake person? Andrew: Do you like how I hold it over at Buffalo and Washington. Scott: Not really. Their doughy richness my hand, let the sauce drip, then lick my gets to me pretty quickly. At some of these hand after I eat the pancake? Waitress: Are you going to do the full fancy-pancake places, it seems almost like Scott: Yes. That definitely needs to be or the half-order of the Kalua Pig? it’s a reframing of dessert as breakfast. noted in the story. For the public good. Scott: (apparently offended by the very Andrew: Pancakes always sound good idea of a “half order”) Oh, the full order. on the menu, but when you eat them, it’s (Pistachio Crème pancake time!) Andrew: Could I try one guava chiffon like a syrup-saturated Ace bandage. Andrew: The guava chiffon had a lot pancake and one pistachio pancake? of sensory things going on because it was Waitress: Sure! (As vaguely islandish music plays over- positively swimming in its own juices. (She leaves) head, the food arrives. First up, the Kalua Scott: This is a more minimalist

MAY 2017 48 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY BRENT HOLMES GET VIP ACCESS Subscribe today to Desert Companion. Not only will you experience. (Basically, it’s a pancake piped get a year’s worth of our award-winning city magazine with ribbons of pistachio frosting.) delivered to your door. But you’ll also be supporting Andrew: It almost presents more as a quality journalism, fine writing and great design. piece of cake. Scott: In fact, it begs the question of SUBSCRIBE TODAY! www.desertcompanion.com/subscribe whether we should put syrup on it. I’m going to try it like this. (Chewing) It doesn’t have a typical pancake experience. More Get a 1-year (12 issues) subscription for just $24 like a pastry. But I like it without syrup. Andrew: God, I can feel the diabetes! My inner Wilford Brimley! Bob Marley: I hope you like jammin’, I wanna jam it with you ... Andrew: Let’s take it to the next level: 117,000 SOUTHERN NEVADA I’m gonna put a little syrup on it ... Scott: It can’t be said we won’t push CHILDREN ARE HUNGRY the envelope for the sake of journalism. Andrew: Maple-pistachio-pancakio explosion! THAT’S THE BAD NEWS. Scott: Seems like it would be too much. THE GOOD NEWS? Andrew: I like it with syrup. Scott: Is that because the syrup ap- peals to some platonic ideal of a pancake? Andrew: Yeah. Puts it more into a YOU CAN HELP breakfast context. But the flavors actually complement each other. Bob Marley: We’re jammin’, were Hunger is hard on growing bodies, and jammin’ ... Andrew: Okay, watch this. I’m putting can lead to lasting emotional, learning a little syrup on the pistachio ... and developmental issues. That’s why Waitress: (sidling up.) Okay, be brutally honest. your support of Three Square’s childhood Andrew: Oh, it’s excellent. But now watch this: I’m going to cross the streams. nutrition programs is so important. And now (Dips syrup-soaked pistachio pancake until May 31, your gift is doubled, so $10 INTO THE GUAVA SAUCE. He’s out of control!) You might wanna call security! now provides 60 meals! (He eats it. Sound of envelope once again being pushed for the sake of journalism.) Andrew: Oh, my God — it’s like a Skit- Be a part of the solution. tles commercial in my mouth! Waitress: That’s the best description GIVE • VOLUNTEER • ADVOCATE I’ve ever heard. Learn more about the Bag Childhood Hunger campaign Andrew: So, which did you like better, threesquare.org the pistachio or the guava? Scott: Pistachio. But I could eat more 702-644-3663 of the guava — the tang of the guava cuts through the doughiness of the pancake. Andrew: I liked the guava better; the mush factor. (Groans.) But I can feel myself starting to get dizzy ... double vision ... Bob Marley: You guys gonna finish that rice?

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 49 VOL/ISSUE 15.5 MAY 2017 THE ADVNTRS TRAVELER’S GUIDE

D E S E R T THRILLS WITH A SENSE OF PLACE

SAILS TEAM: Heidi Kyser leads the pack during an afternoon of land-sailing at Jean dry lake bed. MAY 2017 50 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS ➽ There are thrillseekers, and then there are chillseekers — adventurers who prefer to get their adrenaline in 1 measured doses between eating, drinking, sightseeing, and relaxing. Whether you’re a weekend warrior or an endorphin junkie, these quick Southwest jaunts offer the best of both worlds: high adventure with a sense of place.

DeTour Vegas in 2013 while his PLACEMAKERS ‘KIND OF career as a hospitality professor was stalled in the U.S. immi- gration bureaucracy — also LIKE FLYING’ offers ATV outings, which are ➽ When less dependent on weather. you’re done Sailing a dry lake Locals, on the other hand, land-sailing, bed with DeTour can play it by ear, wait for good go another Vegas wind forecast, and book a 15 minutes land-sailing tour a couple days south on I-15 in advance. The experience is and stop by 3 Safak Sahin didn’t come to worth that flexibility (and the Primm Valley Las Vegas from Turkey in 2006 $200 per-person cost for a four- Resorts for to start an adventure sports tour hour excursion). DeTour takes dinner. Your best and nature trail, those who don’t company — he was a Fulbright care of everything from refresh- bets are Guill- among countless mind the peri- Scholar working on a doctorate ments and transportation to ermo’s Mexican other sites and odic honk and in hospitality management at permits and equipment. Every- restaurant at activities. Stay whistle of a train UNLV — but he seems born one in my group was riding the Buffalo Bill’s or as long as you roaring through for it. In a 10-minute explosion 15 mph winds within minutes of GPs Steakhouse can, but even town — are of chatter and maneuvers, the being seat-belted into our crafts, at Primm Valley. a short visit the charming, slight, dark-haired Sahin pulls laughing as we picked up speed, And make sure should include rustic accom- five land-sailing crafts out and yelping as we rattled over to take a doggy time for a visit to modations of of a trailer, assembles them, bumps and grooves in the hard bag/to-go order the Kelso Dunes Hotel Nipton recounts the history of his desert floor. (see next item). (1) and Kelso (3), a restored company, DeTour Vegas, and “It’s really exhilarating, the (Primm Valley Depot Visitor 113-year-old bed- initiates my group of four family feeling of being pushed by the Casino Resorts, Center (2), the and-breakfast members in the art of driving a wind. It’s kind of like flying,” 31900 Las Vegas historic and geo- with campsites, three-wheeled cart with a sail says Jennifer Sahin, Safak’s Blvd. S., Primm, logic highlights RV hookups and attached to it across a dry lake wife and DeTour’s co-owner. NV, primmvalley- of the area. tented cabins bed, Jean in this case. “It’s awesome at night on a full resorts.com) (Mojave National on the grounds. “I was a member of the para- moon. Really awesome.” Preserve, 760- Another caveat: gliding club, and the president It also has a lower barrier of ➽ Why stay in 252-6100, nps. when we visited of the club had one of these entry than other wind sports Nipton at all? gov/moja/index. in March, the (land-sail crafts), so he let me and is more eco-friendly than Because it’s the htm) restaurant was try it,” he says. “I fell in love adventure sports that produce gateway to closed two out at first try … because with the emissions. The Sahins work Mojave National ➽ From Primm, of three days, same wind you can go any with the BLM to make sure Preserve, home head another so plan to bring direction.” they stick to designated recre- of Cima Dome quarter-hour your own food. There has to be some wind, ational areas and give tour par- natural for- south on I-15, (Hotel Nipton, however, which can make the ticipants mandatory reading on mation, Rock and then take 107355 Nipton sport tricky to schedule for the protected Desert Tortoise. tourists, whose time in town “We really love this sport,” Spring historic the Nipton Road Road, Nipton, may be limited to days without Jennifer Sahin says. “It’d be site, and Hole- exit east to California, the requisite minimum 8-10 great to see more locals doing in-the-Wall Nipton, Califor- 760-856-2335, mile-per-hour breezes. That’s it.” Heidi Kyser campground nia. There — for nipton.com) partly why Sahin — a wind- Info: detourvegas.com GALEN EVERSOLE NIPTON/DR. OF HOTEL COURTESY NIPTON HOTEL sport hobbyist who launched

MAY 2017 PHOTOGRAPHY PETER FRIGERI DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 51 PLACEMAKERS ➽ The high during the hot ica had yet to shale found at canyon walls of summer months. emerge from the Oak Springs. Kershaw-Ryan The Canyon ocean’s depths. Today, at the ➽ Caliente (1) is town exudes State Park (2) Overlook trail These Cambrian Oak Springs Tri- the perfect hub a Western, hide a verdant gives a beautiful Era seas teemed lobite Site (3), a for a weekend frontier feel, paradise of lush perspective of with forms of well-placed rock adventure in exemplified by grassy lawns, the park from plant and animal hammer can eastern Neva- the 1920s mis- manicured above, where life unlike any split those layers da. All five of sion-style train flower beds, and the stripe of the Earth had back apart, Lincoln Coun- station that now park facilities so green at the previously seen. revealing the ty’s state parks serves as the well-maintained canyon’s bottom As they slowly fossils preserved are within an town hall. For they practically lies in stark died off, they inside. And if hour’s drive, and meals, I frequent sparkle. Actu- contrast to the collected on the you’re lucky the town itself the Knotty Pine ally, the spring parched desert sea floor, where enough to split has everything (775-726-3767). that feeds this all around. their bodies open a rock and a vagabond The service and canyon literal- (parks.nv.gov) were squeezed find a trilobite, traveler needs, food (especially ly sparkles, as between layer it’s yours to including three the burgers) it feeds into a ➽ Half a billion upon layer of keep. (travel- motels that all are surprisingly children’s wad- years ago, our detritus that nevada.com, score highly on good for such a ing pool that is humble section would eventu- search “Oak TripAdvisor. The small town. open to visitors of North Amer- ally become the Springs”)

MAY 2017 52 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER SMITH out the other side, the passage opened up again to allow exploration deeper into the cliffs. At the back of Moon Cave is an actual cavern, but it’s at the top of a natural chimney 20 feet high. Climbers courageous MAY 2017 enough to try the ascent face an equally unnerving descent once inside. I’ve never been brave enough to make that plunge. THE Most of the “caves” in the VOLpark/ are not as demanding. In ISSUE 15fact,.5 the combination of level terrain and self-guided explor- ing means people of all ages and ADVNTRSWELCOME ability levels can enjoy Cathe- dral Gorge. There are easily TRAVELERS’ GUIDE enough major slots to fill a full TO SLOT day, and minor slots that look like dead ends can unexpect- edly open up, leading to further COUNTRY exploration. I have been going to Cathedral Gorge for years, and I MAZE FOR DAYS: The endless fun of find new treasures every time. Cathedral Gorge Cathedral Gorge’s is only three hours maze-like passages Three hours from Las Vegas, away, but its Cathedral Gorge is close endless slots and I can’t get enough of Cathe- enough for a day trip, but to get narrows beg for dral Gorge. Of the five state the most out of a visit, I rec- an overnight stay parks in Lincoln County, this is ommend staying at least one in the park. easily my favorite. What makes night. Three hours is plenty the park special, and what far enough from Vegas to get keeps me coming back, is the profoundly dark skies, and line of cliffs that serve as the the stargazing at Cathedral eastern border of the park. The Gorge is truly impressive. The whole formation is less than a park has sites for tent or RV mile long, but it’s jam-packed camping, and the campground with a seemingly endless series is clean and well-appointed. of slots that cut back into the Central bathrooms have real, cliff like hallways, forking flushing toilets, running water, and twisting and closing over, and hot showers. Campsites drawing intrepid explorers ever have picnic tables and shade further, deeper, in search of ramadas. And the park hosts what’s around that next bend. regular ranger programs in the My most recent trip started evening. with a visit to the “Moon My favorite time to visit Cave,” a set of slots the park Cathedral Gorge is in late rangers were kind enough to September, during the annual mark with a sign. After ven- Dutch Oven Cook-Off State turing into the main passage, Championship. Cooks from 1 a quick left brought me to a around the state vie for titles narrow tunnel maybe two feet in a variety of categories, but high and ten feet long. Head the real winner is always my first, on my belly, I crawled belly, stuffed full, and ready in, twisting left, then right, as for a relaxing night around I followed the curve scoured the campfire. I can’t wait to go out of the million-year-old back. Alan Gegax bentonite clay by centuries of Info: parks.nv.gov

KERSHAW-RYAN STATE PARK COURTESY OF NEVADA STATE PARKS PARKS STATE OF NEVADA COURTESY PARK STATE KERSHAW-RYAN intermittent rain. Clambering

2 3 MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 53 1

PLACEMAKERS VOL/ISSUE 15.5 ➽ Here’s an place. “They unabashedly don’t take res- spiritual loca- ervations,” the MAY THE tion: Chapel of check-in clerk 2017 the Holy Cross told us. Instead, (1). This narrow, she said, people JEEP DATE soaring slice of begin lining up architectural at 4:30 to claim Bouncing through modernism, a time slot. “The paradise on the completed in food is worth trails of Sedona 1956, rises from the wait,” the a hillside outside Republic assures On the Jeep’s dashboard of town and com- us. If you like ADVNTRSTRAVELERS’GPS screen, GUIDE we’re floating, mands spectacu- Elote’s food, you 2 gently, in a featureless white lar views through can buy Elote’s Matrix void, with absolutely its windows. cookbook. (771 nothing around us. Meanwhile, You needn’t be State Route 179, it’s okay by us. Rock State Park absolutely everywhere around religious to find elotecafe.com) Sedona is lousy is now a com- us swells the real-world beauty it inspirational. with vortexes, plex of hiking and deep magic of Sedo- (780 Chapel ➽ Is looking for but the Airport trails, historical na, Arizona, through which Road, chapeloft- a “vortex” — said Vortex is easy buildings, and a we’re jouncing, violently, on a heholycross.com) to be a special to find and get creek-fed, slick- rock-addled, gonzo rut called spot where to (a short albeit rock water park, Greasy Spoon, the basic road-

➽ A “food- energy moves in steepish hike) all sprawled at ness of which is apparently so slight that SkyNet has simply ie paradise,” and out of the and the sur- the foot of dra- blanked on it. That meaty according to earth — silly? roundings — and matic, patina’d smack you hear is my shoulder the Arizona Who knows. selfie angles — a rock walls. A greeting the doorjamb for the Republic, Chef As long as it great. (Airport great stop on umpteenth time. We’re going Jeff Smedstad’s involves tramp- Road, greatse- the way out of about 3 mph, straight down. Elote Café (2), ing around some donahikes.com) town. (6871 N. “Woo-hoo!” Scott, the driver, attached to the beautiful Arizona Highway 89A, shouts as we rattle to the Arabella Hotel slick rock while ➽ Once a azstateparks. bottom of the hill. The rush! Sedona, is a din- you wait for the private apple com) He’s elated. I’m busy racking

ner-only Mexican goosebumps, orchard, Slide PHOTOGRAPHY DEL BUONO; LAMB ADOBO: JILL RICHARDS P. MATTHEW CROSS: CHAPEL OF THE HOLY my vocabulary for a word that describes how four-wheeling — wheeling to aficionados —

MAY 2017 54 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY SCOTT LIEN the whole day in this seat. That’s whipsawing. Hey, look, a bobcat! Aw, nice of it to ferry that tired rabbit across the trail in its jaws. I love seeing the wonder of nature in action. Another buzz, this one a whipsaws you around the news alert: missiles in Syria. passenger seat no matter how Seems there’s no escaping real slow your roll or how securely life, not even in paradise. you’re belted in. Ooh, whipsaw We roll back into town with actually works pretty well. the setting sun behind us, still The rest of Broken Arrow BUMP IT UP: BAM! See, there I go again; vibrating from a couple great is like that: slow, juddering “Wheeling” in hello, doorframe! rides that day. Even though drives punctuated by surges Sedona is a Damn, though, this place is we’ve come to Sedona on a up and down blunt rock faces, bumpy affair, but there are many gorgeous. (Merely gorgeous? Thursday to avoid the crowds, a symphony of Jeep snarl and opportunities to This is where my vocabulary we can’t avoid the crowd butt-clench, the whole expe- take in amazing fails.) The red stone spires throttling the restaurant rience bear-hugged by a land- views. robed in high-desert juniper district. We snag the last table scape that holds a profound and domed by the biggest sky in The Cowboy Club and toast spiritual significance to many, since Montana — this is what our adventures with drinks from Native Americans to draws an estimated 4 million and rattlesnake sausage. new-age believers to real-es- beauty-guzzling visitors a year. The next morning, I watch tate agents. Hikers. Bikers. Vortex-seekers. dawn creep down the face of We bounce through our last And wheelers. Numerous trails the sandstone ramparts that obstacle, a daunting stretch exist specifically for off-road- fill the balcony’s view from my of terraced drops called “the ing, varying in their degrees of room at the venerable Arabella steps.” It’s exhilarating — if technical challenge — the rises, Hotel. Then we’re off to tackle not enough to entirely blot out drops, twists, and rock obsta- Broken Arrow, a classic Sedona the jitters of the real world, cles that add woo-hoo to the trail that launches right out of a at least enough to bring my experience — and frequently neighborhood of swank custom blood-anxiety levels down to beset by a rainbow infesta- homes. The first obstacle is a tolerable level. “Somewhere tion of pink, red, orange, and a rock wall that looks pretty at the bottom,” I squawk, yellow tourism Jeeps. vertical to me, but, with a roar flinging helplessly and happily Midway through our two- of low gear and applied horse- in my seat, “there’s a pile of hour bounce along Greasy power, Scott pilots the mighty crumpled Jeeps driven by Spoon, my phone buzzes. It’s Jeep Wrangler up and over, his people who didn’t master this my wellness app telling me joyous whoops not entirely the way we have!” I’ve reached my 10,000-step drowned out by the audible Scott Dickensheets goal, even though I’ve spent clenching of my sphincter. Info: visitsedona.com

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 55 PLACEMAKERS

the snow for a good half-hour, waiting for the other six tourists in my group to be assigned their rides. Before letting us into the muddy pen at con- 2 3 cessionaire Xanterra’s ranch, hostess-wrangler Adriana VOL/ISSUE McNeme15.5 had joked, “In our 100-plus years of leading mule rides at the Grand Canyon, no one has died. Let’s not change

MAY THE that today.” us into a row facing the canyon, MULE IT OVER: 2017 Her quip set the tone for and told us stories about points Mulepacking in the outing: good-natured fun, of interest we could see. Down the Grand Canyon tinged with a stark warning. to our west were the Mormon offers incredible RIDE WITH views at a We were, after all, going to Flats, so-called because the approach the deepest canyon Latter-Day Saints who built leisurely pace. Right, wrangler in the world on the backs of the South Kaibab Trail down A VIEW Kevin Lenss leads animals that, as McNeme put into the canyon would stop for the pack. Let your mule do it, “have their own brains.” work on the Sabbath and hold the walking in “What’s the most hair-rais- services up on the plateau. To ADVNTRSTRAVELERS’Grand Canyon GUIDEing thing that’s happened to the east, the point from which you while leading a ride?” I the conquistador Garcia Lopez At 9 a.m. on April Fool’s Day, asked Lenss, as we hit the de Cardenas looked down at I was on the back of a mule, trail and the snow gave way to the Colorado River and esti- Li’l Jed, at Grand Canyon breezy sun. “Has a mule ever mated it to be less than 10 feet getting snowed on. Not fluffy taken off into the forest?” wide. During intervals where “White Christmas” snow, but “Oh, people fall off occasion- we passed through the forest, wet sheets that pelted my ally,” he said. “Broken arm, Lenss drew on his biology yellow, “Mule Rider”-stenciled that kind of thing. Nothing degree to point out varying slicker and left ice chunks in serious.” species of agave, or wallows Li’l Jed’s mane. I would say the view is dug by javelinas at the feet of “Do you guys ever cancel a almost worth a broken bone. piñon trees. ride due to weather?” I asked Our ride — one hour out and I grew up on horseback, so our group’s wrangler, Kevin one hour back — was on a ded- the ride was a bit tame for me. Lenss, a bowlegged, gray- icated rim trail far removed But it thrilled the other people haired cowboy straight out of from the pedestrian bustle of in my group, who were inex- central casting. the Village and Visitors Center. perienced horsemen, including “Rarely.” From time to time, Lenss one guy who said it had been on Li’l Jed and I sat there in pulled our group over, coaxing his bucket list. Xanterra does

MAY 2017 56 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY PETER FRIGERI ➽ Stay at El Every table fills steepness (a ➽ Visit the National Park for with tasty Tovar Hotel (1), every night on net elevation Historic Kolb Historic District, food, most of it the 112-year-old the weekend. (1 change of 4,380 Studio Art and South Rim, cooked by Lilo luxury lodge El Tovar Road, feet over 7.8 History Exhibits. 928-638-7888, herself. Scat- built from Grand Canyon, miles), causing Sitting precar- nps.gov, search tered down the native boulders 928-638-2631, folks — some iously on the “Kolb Studio”) main drag is and Oregon grandcanyon- 250 a year who cusp of the can- a series of fun pine that made lodges.com/ have to be res- yon near Bright ➽ On the stops, including an appearance lodging/ cued — to mis- Angel Lodge, way to Grand a second-hand in National Lam- el-tovar) judge how hard the studio offers Canyon or and general poon’s Vacation the return will a compact tour back home, store, and a and has hosted ➽ Why does ev- be. Unless you’re of the long- set aside an coffee and ice dignitaries from eryone suddenly an experienced time home of hour or two to cream shop. Albert Einstein think he’s a hiker hiker, opt for the brothers Emery visit Seligman (413 Chino to Bill Clinton. when he gets to three-mile trek and Ellsworth on Route 66, Street, Selig- Also plan to Grand Canyon? down Bright An- Kolb, who set off I-40. Eat at man, AZ, 928- have dinner at Because the gel Trail to the the standard for Westside Lilo’s 422-05456, El Tovar restau- bottom beckons, second rest area generations of Café (2,3) for a westsidelilos. rant, the park’s and the first half and back out, Grand Canyon healthy dose of com) only fine-din- is the easy part: max. (nps.gov, explorer- kitsch ambi- ing eatery, but the descent. It search “Bright photographers. ence amply book early. masks the trail’s Angel”) (Grand Canyon compensated 3

rides down into the canyon, too, for those more adventurous. One word of advice, though, regardless of which route you pick: Check the weather report. What’s too cold (or wet, or hot) for you probably isn’t for Lenss. Heidi Kyser Info: grandcanyonlodges. com/things-to-do/mule-trips

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OFADVNTRS LIFETRAVELERS’ GUIDE On the comeback (bike) trail in Kanab, Utah

Kanab. Ka-what? Kanab! I know, I know — you’re all about Park City and Moab and even St. George, all brand names when it comes to sweat ’n’ heave tourism in Utah. Kanab? It’s sort of known as an onramp to bigger and better adventures. But that’s changing. Kanab, population 4,400, is hoping to emerge as a mountain biking destination unto itself, with a small but growing artisanal beer/cof- nity, led by Kanab Cycling Club NOW GEAR THIS: fee/pizza beardo-hipdustrial President Christina Hansen, Top and right, Gooseberry Mesa complex to support it. The who’s working with the city offers challenging town’s two inaugural bike government to ultimately build rock-hopping; trails, Raven and Roadrunner, 40 miles of trails in the area. below right, are short but strenuous runs City officials understand that Kanab’s Road- carved into a hill that book- bike trails are more than out- runner trail is ends the town at the north. If doors amenities for citizens; short but lively — you, oh, say, used to ride a bike they’re a smart investment in and a preview like waaay back two decades tourism infrastructure. “Plus, of more trails to ago and now you’re in your it’s getting crowded in Moab,” come. forties and merely straddling Hansen says. “People are look- a bicycle for the first time in ing for other places to go.” For years feels like mounting a weekend warriors and casual very volatile and paranoid riders, low-key Kanab makes baby giraffe, wellll, there’s for a perfect two-day jaunt. a bit of a relearning curve; If you want to level up, con- each single-track trail offers a sider heading out of town to bracing 20-minute ride with Gooseberry Mesa, northeast of Note that Gooseberry Mesa moderately challenging ridges, Kanab. Just outside Hurricane, is a mountain biking day-trip rocks, drops and squiggles this tabletop mesa features a destination that requires to negotiate. Your first time network of multitrack trails driving over some chunky dirt through is a mere handshake; that strike a balance between roads (four-wheel drive not these are the kind of trails you trickier passages of technical required but recommended), get to know through multiple rock-hopping and ribbons of so pack snacks, water, and extended conversations, which open, easy, scenic trail. Best sunblock for the breaks when may entail getting pitched into of all, they’re uncrowded, so you’ll want to sit down, catch a bush that, whoa, didn’t look the prospect of you (project- your breath, and take in the that prickly (personal experi- ing here), gawky larval noob, view from the top — likely in ence speaking). getting mauled on the trail by rich and satisfying solitude. The new trails are the prod- screaming leather-necked Mad Andrew Kiraly uct of an active biking commu- Max mutants is slim to nil. Info: kanab.utah.gov

MAY 2017 58 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER SMITH PLACEMAKERS

➽ Kanab feels like it’s in a state of permanent Sunday — lazy, beery, yawny Sunday, not churchy, boring Sunday — and I suspect the vortex spouting this 1 Sundayness is at the Rocking V Cafe. The decor is Southwestern DayGlo sunset — purple floor, orange walls — but the vibe is sleepy and 2 3 affably small- town. The menu of riffy Ameri- up who pick it up — and opportunity to Mex will perk understands the chew the fat with say, “Hey, I’m you up, though; fortifying virtues locals. Don’t un- in a CAVE cave I recommend of good sleep derestimate the cave cave …” the shrimp and a certain small coffee bar; (4581 US-89, quesadilla, black je ne sais pimp. their espresso 435-644-8525) bean salad, and Lots of dark will wake. You. house-made wood, polite but The. Hell. Up. ➽ The décor is guac to fuel not obsequious (263 S. 100 East, rugged — stone your adven- discretion, and, 435-644-8884, floors, wood- tures. And yes, of course, all willowcanyon. slab tables — hallelujah, praise the amenities com) but the hearty be, whatever, you’d expect of vegetarian there’s hope for a full-service ➽ Okay, Moqui dishes emerging Utah, they serve hotel. (190 Cave (3) is a from the oven real beer and N. 300 West, corny kitsch trap at Peekaboo cocktails. (97 435-644-8660, lying in wait off Canyon Wood West Center St., canyonshotel. the main high- Fired Kitchen 435-644-8001, com) way, an old cave also boast culi- rockingvcafe. turned into a nary refinement. com) ➽ Oh no! You hybrid gift shop/ The “Mushroom totally forgot ad hoc fossil and Madness” pizza ➽ Wait. You’re to pack your Native American is so earthy and going to be paracord survival artifact exhibit, rich, you can’t spending most bracelet! (It ex- but the breadth possibly eat of your time ists, it’s a thing.) of diversion another slice. outdoors. Why Part bookstore, makes it worth Okay, maybe stay at a place part gear shop, the $5 entry, one more. (233 like Canyons part coffee particularly the West Center St., Boutique Hotel? hangout, Willow collection of 435-689-1959, (1) Because Canyon Outdoor dinosaur tracks peekabookitch- you’re a grown- (2) is the spot to and the abiding en.com)

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 59 PLACEMAKERS the classic road- of Twentynine 760-366-0400, the Joshua Tree side oasis of the Palms Highway pieforthepeople. Retreat Center 29 Palms Inn (2) and Veterans com) with architecture ➽ There’s ➽ For the most with its adobe Way in Joshua by Frank Lloyd something scenic route bungalows and Tree. There, Pie ➽ Travel astrally, Wright and his about this part to Joshua Tree swimming pool. for the People or inwardly as son, Lloyd, back of the desert National Park The barbecue (3) bakes out- it were, at the on the Twen- that’s definitely and its envi- burger in the rageously good Integratron in tynine Palms otherworldly, rons, drive the on-site restau- New York-style Landers, heading Highway. (In- or at least just two-lane back- rant is stupen- pizza with funky north to Barstow. tegratron, 2477 downright sur- roads through dously towering combos includ- The distinctly Belfield Blvd., prising. To wit, the gorgeous and delicious. ing the “David domed building Landers, Calif., the Simi Dabah Mojave National (73950 Inn Ave., Bowie” with plum offers harmonic 760-364-3126, Sculptures (1) is Preserve with 760-367-3505, sauce. Other sound baths and integratron.com; a huge forest of photo stops at 29palmsinn.com) food groups are other acoustic Joshua Tree metal art in the the Kelso train available at near- treatments. It’s Retreat Center, town of Josh- station and then ➽ If there’s a by Joshua Tree booked out 59700 Twen- ua Tree. What the retro Route hip downtown Coffee Company for months, so tynine Palms does it all mean? 66 attraction of near Joshua and Crossroads something must Highway, Joshua (simidabahsculp- Amboy. The first Tree National Cafe. (61740 be working! You Tree, Calif., 760- tures.com) lodging you’ll Park, it’s surely Twentynine can also get 365-8371, jtrcc. come across is the crossroads Palms Highway, metaphysical at org)

MAY 2017 60 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY BRENT HOLMES MAY 2017

VOL/ISSUE THEproprietor of Coyote Telescope wonderment at new bodies15. 5 JOSHUA Tours, for a caravan ride up in the brilliant firmament. A twisty canyon roads to Pio- fuzzy, oblong cloud was the neertown Mountain Preserve, playfully named Cigar Galaxy. TREE STAR a protected — and lightless Jupiter was regally ringed by — haven in the Mojave Desert its four major moons. As a fi- wilds. Once we arrived at the nale, a lunar glimpse at Earth’s TREK lofty spot, Hammonds secured closest neighbor focused on his wide-barreled, high-tech Tycho Crater with its central A personalized Celestron looking glass to an mountain looking like a frozen look at the cosmos industrial-strength tripod. raindrop hitting a tranquil with a literal night Shortly after, I peered deep pool. All were totally stun- ADVNTRSwatchman into the vastness of space for a ning. (If you’re into nighttime show of the ages: the glowing, photography and the Hubble TRAVELERS’It was inky dark shortly gossamer wings GUIDEof the Orion Space Telescope, ask Ham- after sunset on Saturday, Nebula, a solar nursery. monds to show you some of the April 1, outside lively Pap- “We’re looking at a gaseous photos he painstakingly takes py + Harriet’s, an old 1940s cloud that’s about 1,400 light and composites on his nights Western movie set that’s been years away,” said Hammonds, off. With a phone filled with converted into a glorious pal- explaining the vista. “And that mind-blowing hi-res images, ace of Americana kitsch, live cloud is the result of a superno- he’s a paparazzo of the original CELESTIAL music, and flowing drinks near va. In the center are four tiny stars.) SEASONINGS: Left, glimpsing Joshua Tree National Park. stars are called the ‘Trapezi- Hammonds’ excursions infinity through But I wasn’t headed inside um.’ They’re baby stars, like a are an especially good deal a Celestron for a twangy shindig like the hundred thousand years old. for families or groups visiting telescope; right, fun-loving crowd moseying They’re just born.” Joshua Tree National Park. Hammonds’ photo into one of the best bars in It was an absolutely gor- He’ll meet where it’s conve- of the Andromeda the Southwest. Rather, I was geous brood. nient for you from Twentynine Galaxy. meeting Darryl Hammonds, Secluded from the light Palms to Yucca Valley, and the pollution of Las Vegas and Los flat fee includes up to 10 Angeles by mountains and party-goers. Scientific inspira- distance, the frequently clear tion and aesthetic wonderment skies above Joshua Tree blaze are included in the package. nightly with a vast, glittering And as for the existential sense chandelier of glowing orbs. of being a minuscule, mean- 1 And the evening’s skies were ingless mote that some of his definitely no disappointment, clients exclaim when behold- even with a waxing crescent ing such vast magnificence moon washing out many dim- beyond, he’s remarkably down- mer celestial bodies from view. to-earth and humanistic in his Throughout the star party, philosophical outlook. Hammonds explained the “You shouldn’t feel insig- highlights of the heavens in nificant,” Hammonds said. “If a gregarious, approachable, anything, you should feel very and informational manner. He significant because you have started the tourist-friendly a brain to be able to compre- enterprise in 2014 after retir- hend and understand what you ing from the military, and his observe.” Now that’s a truly enthusiasm for astronomy was cosmic outlook. Greg Thilmont on full display as he tapped Info: Pappy + Harriet’s, 760- buttons on the telescope’s con- 365-5956, pappyandharriets. 2 3 trol panel. With each new set com; Coyote Telescope Tours, of coordinates, we gazed with 844-648-3759, coyotetelescope.com ANDROMEDA GALAXY COURTESY OF COYOTE TELESCOPE TOURS TELESCOPE OF COYOTE COURTESY GALAXY ANDROMEDA

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ADVNTRSTRAVELERS’ GUIDE

Emil says from his jet ski. He A BLAST — twists the throttle, sending water through the tube that tethers us, and I launch skyward again. LITERALLY Iron Man, take two! Jetpacking to Jetpacking and jetboarding heroic heights in are tricky and demanding, New Pahrump but addictively exhilarating in those superhero moments For a few precious, when you carve a perfect a good go at flying over the wa- H2OHHHH!: power-drunk seconds, I’m donut turn across the water. ter. By the end of a 40-minute Andrew Kiraly hovering triumphantly like Once a YouTube curiosity, session of jetpacking and jet- does his best Iron Man, lording it over all jet-based water adventures boarding ($259), I was floating superhero of Pahrump, and I even keep have not only become popular around like a plausibly men- impression with jetboard and jet- my balance long enough for with day-cationing thrill- acing Baron Harkonnen, and pack. Afterwards, the cinematic fantasy to get a seekers, but they’ve come even got enough confidence to he did a 122 mph little mental music going (it’s into their own as bona fide try my hand (and flailing legs) lap in a Corvette an electric-guitar version of sports with their own tricks at a few tricks like “Walk- and his poor “Flight of the Valkyries,” if you and techniques. (In Pahrump, ing on Water” and “Dolphin widdle tummy must know) before an errant “Stairway to Heaven” and Dives.” (Which, in my case, hurt ooh poor micro-swivel of my ankles “Underwater Submarine” used might be better described as baby. sends me zagging sideways to be things you’d likely see “Flounder Slaps.”) like a rogue bottlerocket. I on the menu at the Chicken “I love the feeling of freedom, crash into an early lunch of Ranch.) The good news is the sense of escape of ’board- lakewater. that you don’t have to be a ing,” says Jetpack America “I’m sending you back up!” tattoo-sleeved brogre to have Manager Emil Nedelcu. Once

MAY 2017 62 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS PHOTOGRAPHY BRENT HOLMES 1

PLACEMAKERS 2

➽ Jerky is Pahrump Valley Pahrump’s Winery (1) — and spirit animal, and that’s okay. Since Miguel’s Fresh taking it over in Jerky is its, I 2003, Bill and dunno, church? Gretchen Loken See, great jerky have poured defies metaphor. heart and soul Anyway, Miguel into developing is a 17-year it into not just a an avid wakeboarder in Flori- veteran of the full winemaking da, Nedelcu tried a jetboard 10 chewy dried facility, but a years ago and fell in love with tasty flesh arts; I classy, accessi- other thing Highway 160 it. I can see the attraction. recommend his ble retreat for that’s legal in #402, 775-727- Jetpack America is on peppered and the rest of us. Nye County. Red 7200, redapple- the campus of the Spring original beef, but They’re well Apple Fireworks fireworks.com) Mountain Motor Resort and adventurous moon their way to (2) is a verita- Country Club, a 330-acre lars should chaw producing wine ble candy store ➽ Front Sight spread of improbable poshness on the surpris- made com- with shelf upon Firearms Train- in Pahrump. (If you have an ingly flavorful pletely from gleaming shelf ing Institute extra $3,000 lying around, you venison jerky. Nevada-grown of near-pro- really is that — a can also take a Corvette driv- For vegetarians, grapes — a true grade gun resort that’s ing course at its Ron Fellows the dried fruit miracle in the pyrotechnics. become a mecca Driving School.) For a day trip and nuts (butter desert. Have the “This stuff is as for serious that mixes different kinds toffee peanuts!) penne alla vodka close to Disn- shooters who of buzz, you could do worse are the bomb. at Symphony’s eyland as you prize its top- than a jaunt to Pahrump for (Highway 160, with their rich, can get,” an flight trainers. watersports, wine-tasting, and near Gamebird sassy zin. (3810 employee says, And, at 18 years other diversions. Pro tip: If Road) Winery Road, gesturing to and still growing, someone at Spring Mountain 775-751-7800, walls of colorful it’s a Nye County Motor Resort offers you a “hot ➽ Wine snoots pahrumpwinery. packages with institution. (1 lap,” know that the only nether may not neces- com) names like Title Front Sight region it involves is your stom- sarily swoon at Bout, The Star Road, 800-987- ach hurtling into your mouth a sip of what’s ➽ Big-ass Chamber and 7719, frontsight. as you fly around a racetrack on offer at the explosions: The YOWZA! (3610 com) at 120 mph. Andrew Kiraly Info: springmountainmotor- sports.com

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11 6 WILDFLOWER All HUNTING: month SUNG SPRINGTIME KOREAN 4-27 HIKING IN WENDY DANCERS THE MOJAVE CLARK COUNTY CHAMBERS, LIBRARY DESERT Centerpiece of a CARRIE THE CLARK COUNTY EXPLORATORY LIBRARY Korean festival that MUSICAL SURGERY will also feature 18-3 taekwondo demon- MAJESTIC THEATRE Spring’s here! Time WINCHESTER to flee the plotzing COMMUNITY CENTER strations and pho- A New York Times critic news cycles and tos of the Korean Now this is body once compared this musical countryside, this — and we mean painting — “Chambers to the Hindenberg, securing THE dance troupe, out- this literally — seeks to translate it in the pantheon of Amer- fitted in authentic stop to smell the her research of both ican kitsch. And no one CHRISTIANS costumes, will flowers. But what’s living and postmortem stages American kitsch with COCKROACH introduce viewers blooming? Where bodies into paintings the gusto of Troy Heard and THEATRE to traditional and exactly? These which offer access to his madcap crew at Majestic modern Korean guys will tell you: an often uncomfort- Repertory Theatre. 8p and Lucas Hnath’s performances. 2p, park interpreters able subject” (from 5p, through May 27, Alios critically ac- free, lvccld.org David Low (Spring her website). Paint + Las Vegas, 1217 Main St., claimed play Mountain Ranch flesh = awareness of $25, $27, examines a majestic State Park) and one’s own mortality. repertory.com Chris Johnson church divided Let’s go! when its pastor (Valley of Fire). Get 702-455-7340 sniffin’! 7p, free, has a change of lvccld.org theological heart about the existence of hell. 8p and 2p, through June 3, $16-$20, cockroach theatre. com

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 65 THE GUIDE

of Music, Division of Jazz Studies. ART MUSIC Free. Main Theater at Clark County MAUREEN HALLIGAN, LATIN JAZZ PATIO Library, lvccld.org SEE THE FOREST CONCERT & WINE TASTING THROUGH MAY 5; CLOSING MAY 5, 7P CHRIS MANN: A NIGHT WITH RECEPTION AND ARTIST Pianist Cocho Arbe’s quartet plays al THE PHANTOM TALK, MAY 5, 6P fresco as the audience tastes varieties MAY 12–13, 7P This installation asks viewers to of wine. Arbe came from Peru in 1986, The Voice finalist Mann starred in 700 participate in the process of viewing has performed with Sheena Easton and performances of The Phantom of the through the work and examining the Paquito D’Rivera, and recorded with Opera, and will be performing songs layers that make the paintings. Play- Carlos Santana as a featured guest from that classic show alongside other fully placed in a “park” of Astroturf, on the album Los Hijos del Sol. $16 Broadway hits. $36–$49. Cabaret Jazz at five paintings comprised of laser-cut admission; $10 for six wine tasting tick- The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com images deconstruct common objects ets. Winchester Cultural Center, 3130 into abstract shapes and forms. Free. McLeod Drive, clarkcountynv.gov THE STAR (L’ETOILE) BY Clark County Government Center EMMANUEL CHABRIER Rotunda Gallery, clarkcountynv.gov CHRISTIAN MCBRIDE AND MAY 12–21, FRI–SAT 7P; SUN 2P TIP CITY In Sin City Opera’s production of this ABANDON ALL HOPE, MAY 5–6, 7P opera bouffé, the story takes place YE WHO ENTER HERE McBride is a multi-award-winning jazz beyond space and time, in the realm THROUGH MAY 13 bassist, composer, and arranger who of King Ouf, who expects his usual An exhibition of two complete edi- has worked with Natalie Cole, Carly birthday gift: an execution. When his tions of artist books illustrated by Simon, and Sting, among others. He astrologer foretells that the king’s fate Salvador Dali: The Divine Comedy, promises an evening of jazz stan- is linked to that of the young man written by Dante Alighieri (1960) and dards alongside his own composi- chosen to be executed, the reactions The Decameron, written by Giovan- tions. $39–$65. Cabaret Jazz at The keep the audience roaring to the end. ni Boccaccio (1972). These books Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com $15. Winchester Cultural Center, 3130 contain 110 prints authorized by the McLeod Drive, sincityopera.com artist. Free. Marjorie Barrick Museum PANGEA IN CONCERT at UNLV, unlv.edu MAY 6, 2P SOUL MEN STARRING Hong Wang, who plays more than SPECTRUM PROCESS 20 wind and stringed instruments, MAY 14, 7P THROUGH MAY 13 is joined by Albert Chang on piano Las Vegas quartet, Spectrum, sing A showcase of 10 contemporary and violin; harpist Mariano Gonzalez; and dance their way through soul and American artists who are reshap- and Chinese Uighur guitarist Arkin R&B hits of the Motown era, and being the process-art tradition into a Abdulla. $11 advance, $13 day of show. yond. $42–$45. Cabaret Jazz at The profound expression of 21st century Winchester Cultural Center, 3130 Mc- Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com studio practice. The exhibition will Leod Drive, clarkcountynv.gov include painting, photography, mixed CLASSICAL MUSIC media, and sculpture. Free. Marjorie MUSIC OF HOLLYWOOD FROM A CHILD’S HEART Barrick Museum at UNLV, unlv.edu MAY 6, 7P; MAY 7, 2P MAY 16, 7P The Silvertones will perform all the Renaissance Music Academy and the WENDY CHAMBERS: greats of Hollywood, from Mary Pop- Classical Music Education Founda- EXPLORATORY SURGERY pins to Singing in the Rain. All songs tion present a collection of young THROUGH JUNE 1 have been artistically arranged and musicians performing classical works.. Chambers investigates the material scored by George Pucine with Tim Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, connection between painting and Cooper’s skilled craftsmanship on the thesmithcenter.com the human body. The exhibition is piano. $10. Starbright Theatre at Sun comprised of paintings, each of which City Summerlin, scscai.com ANTONIA BENNETT emphasizes the qualities of both IN GEORGE BUGATTI’S paint and flesh: their color, viscosity, BETSY WOLFE & PIANO BAR and texture. Free. Winchester Gallery, ADAM KANTOR MAY 19, 7P AND 9P 3130 McLeod Drive, clarkcountynv. MAY 8–9, 7P Ms. Bennett is the daughter of leg- gov Broadway performers Wolfe and endary entertainer Tony Bennett and Kantor present an evening of caba- has performed with him for decades. THE NEON TEAPOT PRIZE ret, sharing their favorite tunes and For this show, she will be singing THROUGH JUNE 8, MON–FRI stories. $39–$69. Cabaret Jazz at The songs from her latest album Embrace 7A–5:30P Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com Me. $39–$45. Cabaret Jazz at The A juried ceramic teapot exhibit that Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com benefits the artistic education of UNLV JAZZ VOCAL Vegas teens. Free. Las Vegas City Hall ENSEMBLE WITH JAZZMIN DESERT CHORALE: ANNUAL Grand Gallery, 495 S. Main St., MAY 10, 7P MEMORIAL DAY CONCERT theneonteapotprize.com This show features student musicians MAY 22, 7:30P from UNLV’s Jazz Studies Program The Desert Chorale is a 60-voice, and is co-sponsored by UNLV School non-profit, community chorus. Its

MAY 2017 66 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS C h a n e l 1 0 members represent all areas of the greater Las Vegas Valley and are from all walks of life. They will perform a patriotic celebration of the USA. Free. Artemus W. Ham Concert Hall at UNLV, thedesertchorale.org

FROM PARIS TO SHANGHAI MAY 26, 7P Drawing on her French and Chinese heritages, chanteuse and songwriter Jessica Fichot performs a combination of French chanson, 1940s Shanghai jazz, swing and international folk. Armed with her accordion, toy piano and multilingual vocals, Fichot is backed by a band of clarinet/ saxophone, upright bass and guitar. $16 advance, $19 at the door. Winchester Cultural Center, 3130 Outdoor Nevada - Season 2 McLeod Drive, clarkcountynv.gov Premiering Wednesday, May 10 at 7:30 p.m. THE LON BRONSON BAND MAY 27, 8P Bronson leads his 14-piece band in performing the hits of Blood Sweat and Tears, Chicago, Tower of Power, and others. $15–$25. Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

CABRERA CONDUCTS BRUCKNER MAY 27, 7:30P; PRE-CONCERT CONVERSATION 6:30P The Las Vegas Philharmonic presents Anton Bruckner’s 6th Symphony. Also featured are Mozart’s Overture to Die Zauberflöte (The Magic Flute) and Richard Strauss’ Concerto for Oboe and Victorian Slum House A Place to Call Home Small Orchestra, featuring Liam Boisset on oboe. $30–$109. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com Series premiere - Series premiere - Tuesday, May 2 at 8 p.m. Sunday, May 7 at 6:30 p.m. DAVE DAMIANI & RENEE OLSTEAD — BENDING THE STANDARD JUNE 1, 7P Damiani and Olstead perform their clever and fresh arrangements of the American Songbook and the New American Songbook with the hottest young orchestra in the country. $25–$45. Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

MORGAN JAMES — RECKLESS ABANDON TOUR JUNE 2, 7P With her music videos generating American Epic National Memorial more than 800 million views on- Day Concert line, James has earned widespread recognition as a world-class vocalist, songwriter, and actress. $39–$55. Series premiere - Sunday, May 28 at 8 p.m. Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center, Tuesday, May 16 at 9 p.m. thesmithcenter.com VegasPBS.org | 3050 E Flamingo Road, Las Vegas, NV 89121 | 702.799.1010

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 67 THE GUIDE

THE SWEETS’ SPOT THEATER AND COMEDY WITH MELODY SWEETS AN EVENING WITH MAY 22, 9:30P DAVID SEDARIS A night of cabaret, burlesque and MAY 4, 7:30P great music with Melody Sweets and Join best-selling author Sedaris for her all-star band featuring Lon Bron- all-new stories and observations, with son. $25–$40. Cabaret Jazz at The ESCALANTE CANYONS sneak previews of his work to be pub- Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com lished in 2017, as well as an audience Q&A. With sardonic wit and incisive CLOWNTOWN A RT social critiques, Sedaris has become MAY 27–28, 2P one of America’s preeminent humor Set in a world where humanity is forced writers. $49–$59. Reynolds Hall at The to deal with the existence of natu- Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com ral-born clowns, one clown must return to the city he abandoned to find his MAGIC MIKE LIVE lost love and solve a diabolical murder LAS VEGAS that may destroy his kind forever. This THROUGH MAY 31, musical concert will benefit the Nevada THU–SUN 7:30P AND 10P Conservatory Theater. $30. Judy Bay- FESTIVAL Currently in previews, official opening ley Theatre at UNLV, unlv.edu everett ruess days night April 21. This show is an all-new, first-class entertainment experience THE PHANTOM based on the hit filmsMagic Mike OF THE OPERA and Magic Mike XXL. It is a sizzling MAY 31–JUNE 11, TUE–SUN September 22– 360-degree dance and acrobatic 7:30P; JUNE 1, 3-4, 10-11; 2P striptease spectacular guaranteed Cameron Mackintosh’s spectacular October 1, 2017 to bring on the heat. $49–$139. Club new production of Andrew Lloyd Domina at Hard Rock Hotel, magic- Webber’s beloved show features Celebrating mikelivelasvegas.com new scenery, new choreography, new Fourteen Years of staging, and many exciting special ef- Art Inspired by Place PETER PAN fects — including the show’s legend- MAY 4–13, THU–SAT 7:30P ary chandelier. $29–$127. Reynolds Peter and his mischievous fairy Hall at The Smith Center, thesmith Peggy Trigg, The Fallow Field (detail), 2016 sidekick, Tinkerbell, visit the nursery center.com of the Darling children late one night. Plein Air Painting Competition With a sprinkle of pixie dust, they SEPT 22–27 begin a fantastical journey across the DANCE Art Collector’s Sales stars to new lands that none of them KOREAN CULTURE SEPT 29–OCT 1 will ever forget. Bring the entire fam- FESTIVAL WITH SUNG Demonstrations/Workshops ily to enjoy this co-production with KOREAN DANCERS the Rainbow Company Youth Theatre. MAY 6, 2P SEPT 22–30 $27.50–$33. UNLV Performing Arts The Sung Korean Dancers will mes- Arts & Crafts Fair Center, unlv.edu merize the audience with their fluid SEPT 29–30 movements and authentic costumes Speaker Series THE CHRISTIANS set to traditional and modern day SEPT 25–30 MAY 18–JUNE 4, Korean music. Free. Main Theater at Live Music THU–SAT 8P; SUN 2P Clark County Library, lvccld.org SEPT 29–30 Lucas Hnath’s soul-searching drama Wild & Scenic Film Festival journeys into the crisis of belief that is SHIRLEY CHEN & ignited in a flock of Evangelical Chris- CHINESE DANCERS SEPT 22 tians when their pastor announces a MAY 7, 2P radical departure from church doc- In celebration of Asian American Pa- Escalante, Utah trine. $16–$20. Cockroach Theatre, cific Islander Heritage Month, you are is located in the heart of cockroachtheatre.com invited to explore the majestic culture Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument of China through a live performance between LVIP COMEDY SHOW of Chinese folk dances. Free. Concert Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef National Parks. MAY 20, 7P Hall at Whitney Library, lvccld.org The Las Vegas Improvisational www.escalantecanyonsartfestival.org Players offer all-fresh, clean-burning TICKET TO BROADWAY! comedy and music made up on the MAY 13 AND 20, 7P; spot. $10 adults; $5 children and mili- MAY 14 AND 21, 2P tary. Show Creators Studio, 4465 W. The best dancers aged 55–92 tap out Sunset Road, lvimprov.com the greatest hits from Smokey Joe’s Café, Kinky Boots, 5 Guys Named

MAY 2017 68 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS Mo, Victor Victoria, Kiss Me Kate, and Pippin. $11. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, scscai.com

NEVADA BALLET THEATRE PRESENTS PETER PAN MAY 13, 7:30P; MAY 14, 2P This full-length production is based on the classic tale by J.B. Barrie. $29–$139. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

TIKI ROOM DANCE SERIES: ALOHA NUI LOA MAY 15, 2P In celebration of Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month, the guest performers are the hula dancers of Aloha Nui Loa. Free. Large Conference Room at the Clark Coun- ty Library, lvccld.org

A NIGHT ON BROADWAY MAY 16, 6P Discounts/Promotions (discount o of total camp sessions) This show promises a high-energy for members and general public celebration of Broadway with tributes to classics such as West Side Story and Cabaret to the more contem- For camp schedule and registration form, porary Hamilton and Waitress. The visit www.discoverykidslv.org performers range in age from 4 to 18. $18–$55. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com

A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM, ACT I / PAQUITA MAY 19, 7P IT’S A BLAST! Students of ANBT’s Children’s Pro- gram join with the Pre-Professional Experience Ballet Students for Act I of A Midsum- Science and mer Night’s Dream, with youngest students dancing as fireflies, bees, History by the Megaton and ladybugs, and older students as Learn how America’s Cold Puck, Titania, and Oberon. Paquita War warriors unlocked the is the second act of the evening, featuring variations that are some of secrets of the atom in ballet’s most celebrated examples the Las Vegas desert. of 19th-century classicism. $18–$55. Reynolds Hall at The Smith Center, thesmithcenter.com $4.00

SHOWGIRL FOLLIES … OFF GENERAL ENCORE! ADMISSION MAY 27, 7P; MAY 28, 3P WITH THIS AD Paying tribute to the iconic entertainment found only in Las Vegas, this show features entertainers, sparkle, talent, and a “wow” factor that is worthy of our fair city. $20. Starbright Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, scscai.com

JUBILEE MAY 31, 7P The Tamburitzans present dance and A Program of the Nevada Test Site Historical Foundation Admissions (702) 794-5124 | Group & School Tours (702) 794-5144 755 E. Flamingo Rd. Las Vegas, NV 89119 | www.NationalAtomicTestingMuseum.org

MAY 2017 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS 69 THE GUIDE

music from Croatia, Armenia, Serbia, ICE CREAM FESTIVAL Romania, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Russia, MAY 20, 10A–4P Ukraine, France, and India — with a A festival full of sundaes, cones, finale “Dance of the Roma” that will novelties, and root beer and orange leave you breathless. $20. Starbright soda floats, this kid-oriented event Theatre at Sun City Summerlin, will feature live entertainment, carni- scscai.com val games, a bubble play station and more. $10 adults, $8 children 3–12, STAR CATCHERS RECITAL free for children younger than 3. JUNE 2, 6P Springs Preserve, springspreserve. The award-winning Winchester Star org Catchers Dance Program celebrates its 15th anniversary with hip-hop, con- BLUES & BREWS FESTIVAL temporary, jazz, and ballet during its MAY 27, 4–8P annual spring recital. The dance pro- Each ticket includes unlimited sam- gram features more than 80 students, ples of beers from across the country ages 3 to young adult. High school and around the world. Commemora- senior Myia Clark will be featured. $8. tive mugs will be available to the first Winchester Cultural Center, 3130 1,900 guests. Local and national blues McLeod Drive, clarkcountynv.gov acts will provide the backbeat while vendors will have plenty of tasty food options for purchase. $35–$75. DISCUSSIONS AND READINGS Springs Preserve, springspreserve. WHAT WOULD YOU DO? org WORDS OF WISDOM ABOUT DOING THE RIGHT THING MAY 8, 7:30P FUNDRAISERS John Quiñones, award-winning co-an- chor of ABC Primetime, forces all of THIRD ANNUAL RUN/WALK us to take a good look in the mirror, TO RAISE AWARENESS AND holding it up not only to ourselves, FUNDS FOR BRAIN TUMOR RESEARCH but to the nation. What do we do MAY 21, 8 when we witness injustice, racism, Each year 70,000 adults and children bullying? Free, tickets required. Ar- in the United States are diagnosed temus W. Ham Concert Hall at UNLV, with a brain tumor and nearly 14,000 unlv.edu lose their lives. For those who live, the tumors, benign or malignant, cause DANCES OF INDIA extreme disabilities. Fundraising MAY 28, 2P benefits The Musella Foundation and Purbasha Banerjee, Artistic Director of Desert Gray Matters. $30. Sunset Park, Nritya Academy of Indian Dances, dis- walktoendbraintumors.org/nv cusses the culture behind classical and modern dances of India. Following her ROMANIAN RHAPSODY GALA lecture, the dancers of Nritya Acad- JUNE 3, 6P emy of Indian Dances will give live The Las Vegas Philharmonic Guild performances of “Bharata Natyam” honors Lia Roberts, Honorary Consul and Bollywood. Free. Concert Hall at General of Romania. The event will Whitney Library, lvccld.org include a champagne reception and silent auction, followed by a dinner and a live auction. Musical perfor- FAMILY AND FESTIVALS mances will include a welcome salute ‘OHANA FESTIVAL by T.A.P.P.S. (Trumpeters Alliance MAY 6, 10A–4P to Perform Patriotic Services), the Commemorating Asian-Pacific Amer- Romanian Children’s Choir, and other ican Heritage Month and highlighting special guests. Proceeds benefit the importance of ‘ohana (family) in the Las Vegas Philharmonic’s Youth Polynesian cultures, this family-friend- Programs. $195. Westgate Resort & ly event will feature great food, live Casino, lvphil.org music, performances by local hula schools, cultural workshops, island craft activities, an outdoor “luau” with kids’ games, and more! $6. Springs Preserve, springspreserve.org

MAY 2017 70 DESERTCOMPANION.VEGAS Verdi’s

RigoletPretsentedo by

Starring Michael Chioldi (pictured) So Young Park and Kirk Dougherty Rubin Casas and Danielle Marcelle Bond

Opera conducted by Music Director, Gregory Buchalter of the METROPOLITAN OPERA.

Friday, June 9, 2017 7:30 PM

Sunday, June 11, 2017 2:00 PM

Judy Bayley Theatre University of Nevada, Las Vegas

Box Office: 702.895.2787 Photo courtesy of Marco Ayala END NOTE

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None CCO: None AM: None Live: 7.625” x 10” CD: None AP: None Trim: 8.375” x 10.75” AD: None PP: None Bleed: 8.875” x 11.25” CW: None PM: None None Photo: None PRF: None COLORS PRODUCTION NOTES APPROVALS Cyan • All line art & logos are repro Proof_____ AD_____ CW_____ GCD_____ AE_____ Prod_____ Client_____ • Unless specified by workorder, all other images Magenta Last Touched :scott.harris, 4-18-2017 11:23 AM, Production:2017:Subaru:_Page_ are FPO Yellow Ads:Regional:LA_Los_Angeles:0500_MY17_IMP_DesertCompanion:1SOALA170500_IMP_ Black DesertCompanion_01.indd Scale: 1” = 1” Printed at: None Revision #: 1 MAKE THE MOVE THAT MAKES YOUR CAREER.

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Southwest Medical Associates is part of OptumCare, a leading healthcare delivery organization that is reinventing healthcare to help keep people healthier and feeling their best. Southwest Medical is a trademark of Southwest Medical Associates, Inc. Optum and OptumCare are registered trademarks of Optum, Inc. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. ©2017 Southwest Medical Associates, Inc. All rights reserved.