A Voyage of Discovery, Into the South Sea and Beering's Straits, for The
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r^^^Sm ucQei.ift.1 -k.JI¥. 1 THE UNIVERSITY KOTZEBUE'S VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. VOL. II. : LoNPOK Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode. New-Street-Square. m JN^ . > -^ iyuz-tu>Axy. I.andoTl.I'aiUshtd, h'J^on^man.Jfursf.Jiees.Orme StBrmvn. ISil VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY, INTO THE SOUTH SEA AND BEERING'S STRAITS, FOR THE PURPOSE OF EXPLORING A NORTH-EAST PASSAGE, UNDERTAKEN IN THE YEARS 1815 1818, AT THE EXPENSE OF HIS HIGHNE9S THE CHANCELLOR OF THE EMPIRE, COUNT ROMANZOFF, IN THE SHIP RURICK, UNDER THE COMMAND OF THE LIEUTENANT IN THE RUSSIAN IMPERIAL NAVY, OTTO VON KOTZEBUE. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS PLATES AND MAPS. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: PRINTED FOB LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1821. A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. CHAP. XI. FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS TO RADACK. The 17th of December, latitude 19° 44/, longitude 1G0° 7'' Since we left the island of Woahoo, we have always had either calm, or a very faint wind from S.E. ; besides this, the strong current from S.W. has carried us in three days 45 miles to N.E. ; but it has now taken its direction to S.W. On the Slst, at six o'clock in the evening, we were in latitude iG"" 55', longitude 169° IC, consequently on the same parallel, and 15 miles distant from Cornwallis Island. A sailor sat con- stantly at the mast-head without descrying land, whicli, however, we could not doubt to be near at hand, on account of the great number of sea-fowl which hovered round us. As soon as the sun sunk into the ocean, I kept the ship against the wind, and tacked during the night under few sails, VOL, II. B 2 FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS in hopes of descrying the island, which must be very low, unless its situation had been determined quite inaccurately. The 22d, at break of day, I again directed my course to W., and expected every moment to hear it announced from the mast-head that land had been discovered ; but in vain ! At eight o'clock, accord- ing to the ship's reckoning, we were in latitude 16° 56\ longitude 169° 21', consequently almost on the point on which the island was said to lie, without discovering any thing. The many sea- fowls, however, still kept up my hope ; but at noon, when our longitude far exceeded that of the island, I was obliged to give it up, as it now appeared probable that the Cornwallis frigate had oeen mistaken in fixing the longitude. Our lati- tude, according to t)bservation, at noon, was 17° 3', longitude 170° 1' ; we had consequently been car- ried by the current six miles to the N. in 24 hours, and must certainly, if their latitude had been accurately determined, have sailed past Cornwallis islands at such a short distance, that we must have seen them had they been ever so low. At noon I gave up looking further for the islands, being con- vinced that I had sailed by them, which was con- firmed by the small number of sea-fowl, and now steered to S.W., with the intention of coming into the latitude of the island of St. Pedro, the longitude of which I wished to determine, if it existed at all. A strong E. wind favoured our course j the weather TO RADACK. ^ was serene, but a continual fog seemed to rest on the horizon : this weather, so unusual in the tropics, operated on the barometer, which stood a line lower than usual, which I had never previously observed in the tropics. We had a violent wind on the 24th of December, when we were in lati- tude 14° 42', longitude 173° 10', and which lasted till the 27th, when we were in latitude 11° S\ and longitude 179° 28'. From the 26th to the 28th we had sailed on the parallel of the island of St. Pedro, 2° from E. to W., without descrying the island, from which it is to be supposed that it does not exist at all, or must lie somewhere else. Here I took a southern course to reach the parallel 10°, which I intended to follow directly W. Since we left the neighbourhood of the Cornwallis islands, we daily saw sea-fowls, and sometimes in such numbers, that there certainly must be here undis- covered islands ; though a sailor was constantly on the mast-head, from the rising to the setting of the sun, I was not fortunate enough to make any new discoveries. It might perhaps be supposed, that our longitude was not correct ; against which I have to allege daily observation of the sun and moon, from the 23d to the 29th, which would certainly have shewed me the errors of my chrono- meters. The 29th, latitude 9° 52', longitude 186° 34'. That we might be certain not to sail past the chain of Mulgrave islands, near which we ought to be B 2 4 FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS now, I tacked during night under few sails, and continued our course in the morning towards the W. The 30th, latitude 9° 48', longitude 187° 9'. We had a fresh wind from N., and extremely high waves from N.W. The current had carried us birds since yesterday 27 miles to W. : we saw more than usual. The 31st, latitude 9° 49' 51'\ longitude, accord- ing to the ship's reckoning, deduced from the chronometers, 188° 33'. During the whole day we had gloomy weather with drizzling rain, which is not usual in the tropics j the wind varied from N. to N.N.E. and N.N.W. This changeable weather gave me great hopes that land was near ; I how- ever looked for it in vain. At tliree o'clock in the afternoon, we were exactly N., 15 miles distant from our course in the preceding year, and had now sailed, for the second time, through the chain of tlie Mulgrave islands, without having seen them. I now directed my course as much north as the wind permitted, to sail to KutusoPs islands, which I have promised to examine more closely j and we tacked during the night under few^ sails, that we might neither run aground, nor pass the islands. The 1st of January, 1817, latitude 10° lo; lon- gitude, calculated according to the chronometers on the 2d of January, 189° 54'. A faint wind, which changed from N.N.W. to N.N.E., with drizzling TO RADACK, rain. At four o'clock in the afternoon, the wea- ther cleared up, and it was announced from tlie mast-head that land was seen to the N.N.W., exactly in the direction of our course. It was a low, woody island, the length of which, from N. to S., is three miles, and its breadth three-quarters of a mile. As no single islands are known in this part, I concluded it to be a new discovery, and called it New Year's Island, it having been first seen on new-year's day. The faint wind did not permit us to make any further examination this day ; a countless number of fish sported round the liurick : we . saw fewer birds, from which I con- cluded the island was inhabited. We tacked during the night ; the weather was uncommonly fine 5 the full moon looked magnificently in the starry heavens, and guarded us against every danger. The 2d, at break of day, the island lay distant from us five miles, W. by N. As on the north side a very long reef extended to the north, I du'ected my course to the south, where we saw no surf, and where we hoped to be able to efi'ect a landing. "We had very fine weather, but only a faint breeze froniE.N.E. The lovely verdure of the island had a very pleasing look, and the rising columns of smoke had in our eyes something very inviting. When we were distant but two miles from the soutii point, we were surprised by seven canoes, each rowed by five or six men, which B 3 ; 6 FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS came directly up to us. Their construction was the same as we had observed the preceding year in the Kutusof s group; but they were considerably smaller, andentirelymade of very small boards. This way of patching the boats together, proved a want inconvenience, that the of timber ; they have this water which runs in is obliged to be constantly baled out; and as they can only leave the island in a perfect calm, they have neither masts nor sails. After much difficulty, they approached us within 100 fathoms, and then almost lay on their oars to admire the ship with attention. Their behaviour the cries nor was sensible ; we observed neither grotesque movements with which savages generally distinguish themselves on their first meeting with Europeans: their whole attention was engaged with the ship, which they surveyed with astonish- ment, from the mast-head down to the water. We did not look upon these savages with less curiosity, who all appeared to me tall and well-shaped ; the naturally dark colour of their bodies appeared black at a small distance, because they are do not tatoo their faces. A high tatooed ; they forehead, an aquihne nose, and sparkling brown eyes, advantageously distinguish the natives of New Year's Island from the rest of the South Sea islanders. They rub their long black hair with cocoa oil, tie it together above the forehead, and adorn it with flowers and wreaths made of shells round their neck they wear ornaments of red TO RADACK.