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When Next in India.Qxp 9/8/2005 10:28 AM Page 58 when next in india.qxp 9/8/2005 10:28 AM Page 58 When Next in India DEVI GARH The Glitter and the Glamour THE EPITOME OF ELEGANCE AND TRANQUIL BEAUTY IN A LAND REDOLENT WITH VALOUR: The imposing Devi Garh Fort Palace resort 58 when next in india.qxp 9/8/2005 10:29 AM Page 59 An old palace grandly restored in historic Rajasthan has been making waves on the tourist circuit. What makes the Devi Garh experience so special? Ranee Sahaney finds out. HE DRIVER arrives on the dot. dards is a continuous process. It took 10 Slipping into the car I'm years to turn this ruin of a palace into one enveloped by the welcoming air- of the world's most enviable holiday desti- T conditioned embrace of Devi nations. And yes Devi Garh is a destination Garh Palace Resort's efficient but warm in itself; For when you are in Devi Garh, and caring world. Chilled mineral water you do Devi Garh. quenches my thirst as a choice of CDs is Surprise is one of the most important proffered for my indulgence on the 45 ingredients of the Devi Garh experience. minute drive to the palace resort, cited Unasked for pleasures are provided at all amongst the world's top 101 hotels in the times. Rose petals in the bath and scented Tatler Travel Guide for 2001 and one of candles at your bedside are the least of it. India's finest world-class, all-suite boutique The complimentary wine, the lunch menu, hotels. It's a good feeling — this anticipa- your dining venue each night, the reading tion of a dalliance with this topnotch luxu- of the stars — its all a deep secret — till ry hideaway, the epitome of elegance and the time is ripe. tranquil beauty with its zealously guarded The dazzle of the Devi Garh makeover reputation for privacy and customised care. is as much a part of its lure as is the glam- Perfectly geared for high-end leisure trav- our of its luxury lifestyle. The cascading ellers as well as world-weary corporates levels of the hotel cut into a hillside, have it's increasingly popular with well-heeled been used to their full advantage in the privacy-seeking honeymooners too. restoration process. The marriage of native Entering my suite I'm immediately skills and crafts and international design in drawn to the vast bay window that domi- this grand palace resort has been engi- nates one wall. The rain gods have been neered with masterly finesse. As you wan- magnanimous this year and the earthy der around its vast expanses you'll discov- browns around Udaipur turn into a mosaic er that the bounty of space and terraced with verdant greens. Birds flutter amongst construction acts as a delectable foil to the the woods on the facing hill and a lone dignity of the interiors. eagle wheels high above the palace. Space has been used with liberal insight Turning back to the quiet tranquility of in the entire design. Guestrooms and luxu- my suite, it's hard to visualise it as a bat ry suites are scattered along the cascading infested room in an abandoned palace out- terraces, punctuated by generous court- side one of Rajasthan's world renowned yards, terraced flower beds and tranquil cities. The principality of Delwara, home to lawns, private pools, jacuzzis and tinkling Devi Garh Palace Resort, was awarded to fountains, offering visitors a splendid Sajja Singh, a Gujarati soldier, by the leg- choice of rooms with a view. The spacious endary Rana Partap Singh of Mewar, for Palace Suites and Aravali Suites are beau- his heroic deeds at the battle of Haldighati tifully planned for privacy, inviting the visi- (1576) against Mughal emperor Akbar. The tor to kick of his shoes and pace the mar- palace itself was built in the 1700s. ble floors, day dream at the bay windows, By the time Lekha Poddar — reputed for browse through the selection of in-room the restoration of Neemrana Fort near Delhi CDs, then slip into a comforting bath in the — chanced upon it, the abandoned palace luxurious bathroom. The Garden Suites, a was a plaything of the elements. The Devi little less expensive, have their own little Garh Palace Resort, I was to keep rediscov- garden. ering during my sojourn, is a true labour of From October to March when the love. Anupam, Lekha's son, ensures that weather's just lovely you have the choice the maintenance of its impeccable stan- of tented accommodation. You don't have 59 when next in india.qxp 9/8/2005 10:29 AM Page 60 WHEN NEXT IN INDIA Fine dining has been converted into an elegant game at Devi Garh. Every night guests are led to a different venue in this vast castle to dine at an impec- cably laid table. A NEVER-BEFORE EXPERIENCE: The Palace Resort prepares for a celebration, come sundown to slum it in these at Devi Garh for each take a ride into the hills or go trekking The palace lamps come on one by one. I one comes fitted with electricity, heaters amongst the wooded trails nearby. come upon a cavalcade of attendants put- and fans, a telephone, bathrooms and run- Croquet, kite flying and camel rides, star ting the finishing touches to a dinner set- ning water. But my own favourite is the gazing and pool, books and music — all the ting for 350 guests at the Phool Bagh. The glamorous Devi Garh Suite, beautifully things you never find time for in the mun- manager tells me that one of the most pop- appointed and comes with its own black- dane run of life — are available. ular venues for a party is the pool deck marbled swimming pool and jacuzzi. Looking for some company? Follow me with its grand backdrop — the imposing down to the village of Delwara at the foot palace itself. An evening bonfire party is he state-of-the art gym beckons the of the palace hill. Powder blue and baby already in progress at one of the courtyards Tguilty and the fitness freak. Opt for pink houses define the mixed company as I slip into my room to change for dinner. some major pampering — head for the in- here. Hindus and Muslims have been living Fine dining has been converted into an house spa and its expert masseurs from in harmonious ease with the Adivasis for elegant game at Devi Garh. For every Kerala. Or just chill out at an open air centuries at Delwara. A microcosm world night guests are led to a different venue in jacuzzi or the swimming pool. I emerge of old mosques and temples, the rich and this vast castle to dine at an impeccably relaxed and ready to take on the world the poor — farmers and traders spinning laid table. It could be at any one of the afresh… If yoga and meditation are too out the days in casual cohesion. quiet nooks that dot the terraced floors, slow for you ask for a horse or a bike and Dusk descends gently on the rooftops. the grand table at the window-lined Darbar Hall, at any one of great court- DEVI GARH FACT FILE yards — sometimes even under the stars — and on a full moon night — on the journey by taxi. Devi Garh is about rooftop. 28 km/45min away Is it the rooftop I ask my escort? He RAIL: Udaipur offers train links to Delhi, smiles mysteriously as he takes a long Jaipur, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai. winded route and with a grand flourish seats me at a splendid table for two on the BOOKINGS rooftop. They don't give the secret away Devi Garh Resort so easily…. Village Delwara, Tehsil Nathdwara Fresh flowers and a scented candle District Rajsmand, Rajasthan compete quietly with the moonlight. I order Tel: 91 2953 289211 one of the superb cocktails that are all the BEST SEASON Fax: 91 2953 289357 rage with guests here — then plunge into The winter months (October to February) Email:[email protected] the joys of choosing a gourmet meal. are lovely. The monsoons are special. Website: www.deviresorts.com Satiated, my head upon the scattered ACCESS Delhi Reservations rose-petaled pillow I listen to the lullaby of AIR: Udaipur airport has direct flights Tel: +91 11 23354554 the night sounds — The great stars look from Delhi, Jaipur & Mumbai. Onward Email: [email protected] down upon me willing me to slip into dreamless slumber. 60.
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