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Porth Swtan to Cemlyn Bay PORTH SWTAN to CEMLYN BAY

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Porth Swtan to Cemlyn Bay PORTH SWTAN to CEMLYN BAY Weatherman Walking Porth Swtan to Cemlyn Bay PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY ST RHWYDRUS CHURCH CAPT VIVIAN HEWITT’S 5 HOUSE 7 WHITE LADIES CAR PARK 4 MEMORIAL 9 6 CARMEL HEAD CEMLYN BAY SIGNPOSTING 3 2 8 1 Points of interest Start SWTAN HERITAGE MUSEUM Finish 1 Route The Weatherman Walking maps are intended as a guide Reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf to help you walk the route. We recommend using an of HMSO. © Crown copyright and database right 2009. OS map of the area in conjunction with this guide. All rights reserved. Ordnance Survey Licence number APPROXIMATE DISTANCE: Routes and conditions may have changed since this 100019855. guide was written. 9 MILES TO LLANRHWYDRYS The BBC takes no responsibility for any accident or injury that may occur while following the route. Always wear appropriate clothing and footwear and check weather conditions before heading out. For this walk we’ve included OS grid references should you wish to use them. WEATHERMAN WALKING PAGE 2 PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY This is a stunning walk along the west coast of Anglesey. It would be of particular interest to those interested in wildlife and history. There aren’t any stopping off points along the way so you’ll have to bring a packed lunch and a drink with you, but you’ll be spoiled with scenic spots to take a break. There are a few climbs and some narrow pathways but the views are Church Bay wonderful throughout as the Wales Coast Path is close to the coast all the way. Start: Distance: Walk time: Parking: Travel information: Further information: Porth Swtan car Approx 9 miles Approx 3.5 hours. There is public There is no public transport along the Visit the ‘latest news’ section of the official park. Porth Swtan depending on parking at Porth route so you will need to organise taxis or Wales Coast Path website for more Isle of Anglesey, the start and Swtan and a shuttle service with cars. information and path diversions – Wales, LL65 4ET. finishing point. Cemlyn Bay https://www.walescoastpath.gov.uk Starting Ref: Grade: SH 30112 89116 Moderate. WEATHERMAN WALKING PAGE 3 PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY Directions Starting at Porth Swtan or Church Bay there’s a good car park (with fee) right next to the coast path and there’s also a café so you can refresh yourself before you get going. Porth Swtan’s Welsh name translates as Whiting Cove, after the fish caught in the area, while in English it’s called ‘Church Bay’ because of the steep St Rhuddlad’s Derek at the museum gate Church spire – one of only Porth Swtan Heritage Museum two in Anglesey – that sailors could see as they sailed nearby. The beach at Porth Swtan is one of the SWTAN Swtan Heritage Museum (SH 30129 89078) busiest on Anglesey in the HERITAGE MUSEUM Just up from the coast path is Swtan Heritage Museum, an 18th century ‘crogloft’ cottage summer and is reached via that’s been completely restored with the help of grants and a team of enthusiastic a steep path next to the 1 volunteers. It’s been rebuilt and decorated to how it might have looked in the 19th century café. It’s a mixture of sand when it would have been home to a poor labouring family. As it was the last thatched and rocks. The coast path cottage on Anglesey it was considered of historic interest and worth restoring despite its sticks to the headland with derelict condition. During the work, which began in 1998, it was discovered the floor was its magnificent views but covered with iron plates, thought to have come from a local shipwreck. The house is long for before you get going it’s its kind so may have been added to as the fortunes of the family improved. Today it’s open to well worth stopping off at the public Thursday – Sunday in the Summer with a small entrance fee and it is also used as Swtan Heritage Museum. educational destination for local schoolchildren and groups by appointment. WEATHERMAN WALKING PAGE 4 PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY Directions From the Museum re-join the coast path, walking past the café and on to the headland, with views out over Holyhead Bay. The Wales Coast Path is clearly marked along the route. Continue for about two miles past small bays with names like Porth y Bribys and Porth y Nant, and on to another rocky cove, Ynys y Fydlyn. Derek with Steve Hayward and Derek with a map Rhian Parry Signposting (SH 293918) SIGNPOSTING Whatever the weather, it’s good to know your bearings when you’re walking 2 the coast path. Here on Anglesey, they’re updating over 270 waymarker posts around the island to help the coastguard if walkers get in difficulty. The waymark posts will have both a grid reference to give an accurate place location, and an original Welsh place name. One of the last gates to be updated is in the beautiful little cove at Ynys-y-Fydlyn. The Friends of the Isle View of the beach of Anglesey Coastal Path and the Welsh Place Name Society have worked together on this project. WEATHERMAN WALKING PAGE 5 PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY Directions Walking on, the path climbs steeply along a stony track that hugs the cliffs. About a mile on the path gently bends round to the right and there are good views of the Skerries, the group of small rocky islets a couple of miles off shore. The light house was built in 1717 to guide ships past the treacherous rocks which claimed several vessels as View along the path they travelled the important shipping lane between Holyhead and Liverpool. Look closely for seals Carmel Head (SH 29034 92736) CARMEL HEAD Carry on for another mile and you get to Carmel Head, the prominent section of headland. 3 It’s designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest due to its geology which includes the exposure of some of the oldest rocks in Wales. It’s also thought to be the spot nearest to where a ship was wrecked in the 18th century, leading to one of the area’s most famous stories – the Bonesetters. WEATHERMAN WALKING PAGE 6 PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY The Thomas Splint Derek meets Dafydd Evans Bonesetter In 1745 a ship was wrecked on the coast here and a local smuggler, Dannie Lukie, discovered twin boys, aged about eight or nine, who had been secured with ropes in the ship. They looked swarthy but no one knew where they came from as they couldn’t speak English or Welsh. They were adopted by a local family and named Evan and Matthew Thomas. Matthew died soon after but Evan prospered and it was discovered he had a talent for setting broken bones and became famous for it. His grandson Hugh Owen Thomas went on to invent the Thomas Splint to correct leg deformities in the 19th century and became known as the ‘Father of Modern Orthopaedics ’. Hugh’s nephew, Robert, became Consultant Orthopaedic Surgeon to the British Army during the First World War and used the Thomas Splint – reducing fracture deaths from 80 percent to just eight percent. I was lucky enough to meet Dafydd Evans, a direct descent of Evan Thomas’ at Carmel Head. I asked Dafydd if he had inherited the bone-setting gene and he joked that he didn’t have the brains! But he was clearly really proud of his relatives. Through Dafydd’s DNA is has proved that the boys most likely to came from the area around Croatia and not from Spain as was first thought. WEATHERMAN WALKING PAGE 7 PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY Directions Carmel Head is about the half way point on the walk which continues along the coast path heading towards the craggy headland at Trwyn Cemlyn about five miles ahead. The next section of walk passes the site of the former Carmel Head Mine, a small copper works. A mineral-mining lease was granted in 1756 and it was believed the site was rich in copper after trial shafts were Derek with one of the markers sunk by the Gaddair Copper Mining Company. But the Dafydd and Derek with markers mine proved disappointing and it was sold in the 1860s and abandoned soon after due to its poor yield. Today all (SH 29803 92835) that remains of the works is a WHITE LADIES White Ladies sole chimney stack. In the 19th century it was decided a navigational aid was needed to help sailors keep clear of 4 the treacherous rocks, so in the 1860s the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board built the system of pilot beacons which became known as the White Ladies. Two white-painted stone pillars were lined up one behind the other on the Carmel Head headland while a third was placed on West Mouse, a small islet about half a mile out at sea. The line of sight between the three markers would show the direction of Coal Rock, a dangerous reef about another half mile beyond the islet. WEATHERMAN WALKING PAGE 8 PORTH SWTAN TO CEMLYN BAY Looking out to West Mouse Derek’s creation Derek and Gwynfor West Mouse and Whittling While I was in the area I met National Trust Ranger Gwynfor Owen who knows this corner of Anglesey better than anyone. One of his roles is sharing his knowledge with schoolchildren, and an activity they love getting involved in is whittling – carving small items out of pieces of wood with a knife.
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