These Ageworthy Beauties Are Built for a Lifetime of Memories. by the EDITORS of WINE ENTHUSIAST

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2019 These ageworthy beauties are built for a lifetime of memories. BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST

tashing away bottles for later is not common practice for every wine To guide you with finding the special bottles that will stand the test of lover. We generally live in the here and now, opting for immediate time, every year we release our Top 100 Cellar Selections list—a ranking of gratification over delayed. However, in some cases, popping open the best wines to age that are available now. This year’s list boasts eight Sa special bottle of well-aged wine can be much more transcendent 100-point wines from the iconic regions of Bordeaux, Champagne and the than enjoying it young. Douro Valley in Portugal. However, the full collection is stocked with options Beyond the fact that aged bottles can show immense depth, complexity from around the globe, including Argentina, California, Italy and beyond. and balance, we can’t forget about wine’s ability to transport you to a certain While some selections carry a hefty price tag, more than 80 of them are time and place. Celebrating a fifth wedding anniversary might be made more $100 or under, making this list not only incredibly quality driven—the average nostalgic by enjoying a bottle that was served on the momentous occasion. score is 95 points—but also immensely value conscious. Reliving a past trip to a winery could be enhanced by popping open procured So, with that in mind, turn the page for a list of the best wines to buy now and bottles five, 10 or 15 years later. The aromas, flavors and impressions of wine can age that we hope will offer a gateway to creating new memories in the years help you revel in your past experiences. to come. TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS I 2019 a hint of baking spice. It’s impeccably balanced, with bright acidity. Enjoy now or hold for even 1 4 more complexity. Drink through 2031. LUX Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 7 Joh. Jos. Prüm 2017 Graacher Himmelreich 95 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Spicy, smoky earth tones and shards of slate juxtapose decadent sweet grapefruit and yellow cherry in this complex auslese. It’s light as a feather yet unctuously ripe and rich, with a reverberating fringe of bitter chestnut skin. A bit tight now, Cayuse 2016 God Only Knows Armada but it should reveal stunning layers of fruit and Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley). Insanely 98 earth from now–2040. Valckenberg Interna- Sandeman 2017 Quinta do Seixo Port. aromatic notes of potpourri, raspberry, white This is going to be a major, impressive pepper, soot, funk and earth are followed by tional, Inc. —A.I. 100 7% $32 wine. All the elements are there: ripe blackberry bright, fresh, focused, rich fruit and savory abv: Price: fruit, powerful acidity, dense tannins and spice. flavors. It shows a sense of delicacy and intensity It has the structure to live on for decades. Drink with unparalleled balance. There is no end to the from 2030. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. finish. What makes this Grenache-driven wine 8 abv: 20.5% Price: $70 so extraordinary? God only knows. Best from 2023–2027. —S.S. 13.6% $100 2 abv: Price: Château Pontet-Canet 2016 Pauillac. 5 100 A voluptuous wine, this is rich and fruity yet properly balanced by a magnificent Stony Hill 2016 Chardonnay (Spring structure. Pure, crisp and packed with a black 96 Mountain District). This mighty white currant flavor, this will be a remarkable wine as from the historic producer rarely disappoints—a it develops. Still young, it needs many years to study in nuanced structure and ageability. Crisp, develop. Don’t think about drinking before 2025. focused acidity boosts a core of delicious green K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. apple, lemon verbena and wet stone. The wood Freeman 2016 Gloria Estate Pinot Noir 13.5% $159 imprint is subtle and quiet, the wine having aged abv: Price: 96 (Green Valley). This gorgeous wine 10 months in neutral French oak. Allow this to shows an expressive wild-cherry aroma, a age; enjoy 2024–2028. —V.B. vibrant and pure black-cherry flavor and a firm, 13% $54 3 abv: Price: fine-grained texture for an enticing mouthfeel. Touches of mineral and iron in the aroma, and hints of rhubarb and forest floor in the flavor 6 give it exciting breadth and complexity. Best after 2023. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $68 9 Yangarra 2016 Ovitelli Grenache (McLaren 95 Vale). This is the second release of this wine, sourced from the estate’s old bush vines and fermented on skins in large ceramic eggs. The nose is a complex medley of aromas like dried rose petals, brambly red berries, mushrooms, damp earth and what seems like a whole garden Castello di Neive 2016 Barbaresco. Rose, 96 violet, just-tilled vineyard soil and of herbs. Texturally, it’s like chalk dust, sliced perfumed berry are just some of the aromas you’ll with laser-sharp acidity and wound with tight- grained tannins. A tightrope walk of power find on this dazzling, fragrant red. The elegant, Pieropan 2016 Calvarino (Soave and elegance, the bright, juicy fruit and savory, delicious palate is chock-full of elegance and 96 Classico). Lemon drop candy, apricot, flavor, delivering juicy Morello cherry, raspberry crushed stone, bitter almond and beeswax are just mineral nuances flow right through to the finish. compote, cake spice and a balsamic note. It boasts some of the aromas you’ll find on this intriguing, Drink 2020–2030. Majestic Imports. —C.P. 14.5% $50 fantastic tension and finesse, and will be even classy wine, the 45th anniversary edition of what abv: Price: better with more bottle age. Gorgeous. Drink is one of Italy’s most iconic whites. The savory, 2026–2036. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. elegant palate is focused and bright, delivering abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ripe white stone fruit, citrus, tangy mineral and

HOW THE WINES BREAK DOWN ARGENTINA : 3 I AUSTRALIA : 4 I AUSTRIA : 5 I CHILE : 2 I FRANCE : 24 I GERMANY : 3 I ITALY : 17 I NEW ZEALAND : 2 I PORTUGAL : 7 I SOUTH AFRICA : 1 I SPAIN : 4 I UNITED STATES : 28 CALIFORNIA: 18 / OREGON: 5 / WASHINGTON: 5 10 13 17 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2013 Taylor Fladgate 2017 Vargellas Vinhas Ettore Germano 2015 Cerretta (Barolo). 98 Pianrosso (Brunello di Montalcino). Wild 100 Velhas Port. This is a magnificent, 97 Aromas of red cherry, pipe tobacco, berry, fragrant purple flower and crushed herb opulent wine, with rich tannins and equally rich menthol, star anise and a whiff of new leather aromas mingle with whiffs of tilled earth and new black fruits. While it has plenty of ripeness that shape the nose of this fragrant, captivating wine. leather in this dazzling red. The stunning, savory provides a generous character, it never wavers in The intense, structured palate doles out raspberry palate boasts remarkable finesse combined with its firm structure. It will have an immensely long, compote, licorice, graphite, crushed mint and a an ageworthy structure, offering succulent black impressive life. Drink from 2030. Kobrand. —R.V. whiff of smoke. It’s impeccably balanced, with cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and tobacco abv: 20% Price: $250 firm, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Drink alongside taut, refined tannins. It’s impeccably 2023–2035. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. balanced by bright acidity. It’s already tempting, abv: 14% Price: $75 but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2021–2033. Indigenous Selections. —K.O. 14 abv: 15% Price: $80 La Ca’ Nova 2016 Montestefano 18 97 (Barbaresco). Forest floor, red berry, leather and pipe tobacco aromas are front and Bründlmayer 2017 Ried Heiligenstein center. The intense, full-bodied palate offers 96 Riesling (Kamptal). A wonderfully heady 11 impressive structure and finesse, delivering note of dried hay flower precedes lemon freshness succulent Marasca cherry, cinnamon, star anise on the nose. The palate majors on this pervasive, and a hint of hazelnut alongside assertive but aromatic and ripe lemon note and holds sway noble tannins and vibrant acidity. It already shows with juicy, alluring tartness. This is so concen- focus and depth, but give it time to fully bloom. trated, so lemony and so lip-smacking that you Drink 2026–2038. Weygandt-Metzler. —K.O. simply cannot help wanting more. Lovely now, it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $40 sure to be vibrant until 2038. Terry Theise Estate Selections.—A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $42 15 JCP Maltus 2016 Le Dôme (Saint- 100 Émilion). This 80% Cabernet Franc Éric & Jöel Durand 2016 Empreintes 19 wine may be massive, but it is also perfumed with 96 (Cornas). Aromas of baked plum and swathes of opulent black fruit. It comes from a cherry mingle into leather, sun-baked earth and Domaine Vincent Paris 2017 Le Geynale great year for Cabernet Franc, which forms 75% sage in this intensely perfumed Syrah. Bright, 97 (Cornas). Le Geynale is the producer’s of this vineyard. Juicy acidity gives the wine a bristling black-fruit flavors and firm tannins flagship Cornas sourced from top vineyard sites velvet character that is enticing. It needs time, so pierce through the palate, extending into a smoky, and old vines. Black cherry and plum flavors are wait to drink from 2026. World’s End LLC. —R.V. mineral finish. It’s stunning already but will gain dense and potent but nuanced by violet perfume even greater complexity and nuance through and layers of iron, graphite and dried herb. Ripe, abv: 15% Price: $235 2035. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. integrated tannins are appealing already but this abv: 13.5% Price: $39 massively complex wine begs further cellar age. It should reward drinking through 2040, likely 12 further. Polaner Selections. —A.I. Selvapiana 2015 Vigneto Bucerchiale 16 abv: 14% Price: $73 96 Riserva (Chianti Rufina).Combining an irresistible pairing of earthy elegance and Chanin 2017 Bien Nacido Vineyard ageworthy structure, this fragrant, focused red 96 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). boasts heady scents of smoke, wild berry, pipe Extremely delicate and pure aromas of lemon, 20 tobacco, sunbaked earth and rose petal. The taut nectarine, gardenia and lily are soft and inviting Brezza 2015 Sarmassa Barolo. Aromas of linear palate shows lovely tension, delivering on the nose of this bottling. The palate sizzles 97 camphor, licorice, ground clove, balsamic juicy Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, baking with acidity, offering focused but austere flavors herb and a whiff of rose lead the way in this spice and licorice framed in youthfully firm but of lemon zest and crushed gravel that surround firmly structured, impressive red. The full-bodied refined tannins. Fresh acidity lends balance and an immensely chalky core. It will mature well palate shows structure, tension and finesse, energy. Drink 2022–2035. Dalla Terra Winery through 2042. —M.K. offering Marasca cherry, pomegranate, star Direct. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $39 anise and tobacco set against taut, tightly knit abv: 14.5% Price: $36 but refined tannins. Drink 2023–2035. Coeur Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $74

Average Rating: 95.21 Average Price: $106.48 TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS I 2019 21 24 28 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2017 Goldert Paolo Scavino 2015 Prapò (Barolo). 97 Grand Cru Muscat (Alsace). Orange 96 Aromas of incense, rose, iris and blossom, Mandarin and jasmine create a beguiling eucalyptus carry the nose of this compelling perfume on the nose of this wine. The palate wine. The full-bodied palate is smooth and envel- immediately convinces, with lemon zestiness that oping, delivering juicy black cherry, pomegranate, counters and accompanies the aromatic riches. licorice, tobacco and clove. It has a fantastic Orange zest, more summer blossom and even combination of structure and finesse that shows saltiness take turns to dazzle in this aromatic the power of Serralunga and the elegance that is marvel of a wine. A creamy element accentuates the hallmark of this estate. Hold for even more and unites the freshness of the aromatic strands. complexity. Drink 2025–2035. Skurnik Wines, Drink 2020–2035. Kobrand. —A.K. Inc. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $51 abv: 14.5% Price: $73

Daou 2016 Eye of the Falcon Reserve 22 96 (Paso Robles). Focused aromas of black currant jam, cocoa nib, espresso bean and German 29 chocolate cake show on the nose of this blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Petite Verdot. Polished tannins support luxurious flavors of cocoa powder, hoisin, baking spice and black currant paste. Drink 2020–2036. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $75 25 Schramsberg 2010 J. Schram (North Coast). Gini 2016 La Froscà (Soave Classico). This dry and beautifully aged bubbly is Radiant and loaded with finesse, this 97 Contucci 2015 Mulinvecchio (Vino Nobile 95 made from 84% Chardonnay and 16% Pinot stunning white opens with enticing scents of 96 di Montepulciano). Rose petal, wild herb, Noir. Rich gold in color, it opens with fasci- red berry and pipe tobacco aromas are front fragrant spring flower, acacia, white stone fruit nating and well-developed aromas of toasted and center on this fragrant, elegantly struc- and wild herb. The round, elegant palate is baguette, toasted walnuts and marzipan, followed tured wine. The smooth, linear palate delivers focused, precise and energetic, delivering peach, by a warm, buttery flavor that’s backed by baked raspberry compote, pomegranate, cinnamon and Bartlett pear, ginger and tangerine drop candy apple and cinnamon. The fine-beaded texture is white pepper alongside a backbone of taut but alongside bright acidity. It closes on a tangy luxurious and the finish is long and lingering. Best refined tannins and fresh acidity. Give this time mineral note evoking crushed oyster shell. A through 2024. —J.G. gorgeous wine. Drink through 2028. de Grazia to develop to its full potential. Drink 2023–2035. abv: 12.4% Price: $120 Martignetti Companies. —K.O. Imports, LLC. —K.O. $34 14% $49 abv: 12.5% Price: abv: Price: 30 23 26 Domäne Wachau 2017 Ried Achleiten 95 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Franchetti–Passopisciaro 2016 Contrada Styring 2015 Wit Reserve Estate Notes of salty miso, celery, lemon and green pear 97 G Nerello Mascalese (Terre Siciliane). 96 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This barrel unite into an intriguing nose. On the palate, Enticingly fragrant, this stunning red opens selection reserve is truly exceptional. Showing it is ripe, juicy pear that takes the lead, but with delicate but alluring scents of wild berry, focus and precision, it pushes firm black cherry, savory salt and pepper add freshness and allure Mediterranean brush, rose, crushed rock and a caramel, praline and toasted cashew flavors into to this fluid, slender, concentrated and zesty whiff of exotic spice. It’s full bodied but loaded full display. The ripeness, richness and overall wine. The finish echoes with citrus and white with finesse, delivering creamy red cherry, deliciousness pin the pleasure meter. Drink pepper. It will take some time to come into its raspberry compote, star anise and white pepper. through 2030. —P.G. powerful own. Drink 2020–2030. Gonzalez Taut, refined tannins and lively acidity provide abv: 15% Price: $65 Byass USA. —A.K. support and balance, while a savory mineral note abv: 14.5% Price: $46 lingers on the close. Drink 2021–2036. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $79 27 Château Palmer 2016 Margaux. 100 Powerful tannins and hugely rich fruit balance together in this superb wine. The velvet texture belies the power behind the concentrated, ripe black-fruit flavor, with vibrant acidity giving ample lift. The wine’s structure will ensure aging for many years. Drink from 2024. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $330 31 34 37 Château Angélus 2016 Saint-Émilion. 100 This is a rich, perfumed wine, with dense tannins and intense layers of black plum and spice. The palate is firmly built yet broadened out by plump dark-fruit tones and honed by a solid, dry core. Drink from 2025. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $400

Mettler Family Vineyards 2016 Estate 38 94 Grown Petite Sirah (Lodi). Wine doesn’t get much deeper in color or more concentrated Denner 2016 Mother Of Exiles (Paso in fruit flavor than this. The black color goes to 96 Robles Willow Creek District). Extremely smoky red on the rim, while the aroma is rife dense and dark in color, this blend of 70% with blackberry, licorice, sweet oak and black Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 10% Petit pepper. The palate boasts plump blackberry, soft Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc shows crisp black blueberry and dark chocolate flavors. Fans of currant, cocoa and cola on the pure and delicious bold, full-bodied and saturated reds are going to nose. Polished yet firm tannins meet with snappy love this. Best through 2030. —J.G. acidity on the palate, where flavors of black abv: 14.5% Price: $25 currant fruit and stone converge in long-lasting harmony. Drink through 2041. —M.K. 14.2% $80 32 abv: Price: 35 Quinta da Romaneira 2016 Reserva Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2016 Ried 95 (Douro). The reserve wine from this major 96 Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). estate is certainly a bottle for aging. It’s a blend of A heady, floral nose of violet and peony hovers Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca that shows a above the scents of tart, bright red fruits. The lot of structure. Tannins and black fruits abound, palate gives a slightly darker aspect of blueberry showing density and richness. Drink from 2022. to the brisk cranberry and red-currant notes, Vias Imports. —R.V. while both white pepper and cinnamon shimmer. abv: 14% Price: $53 The body is sinuous, guided by fine tannins and pervaded by an immensely uplifting freshness. The lovely, mouthwatering grip becomes apparent on the finish. Silky, slender and oh-so seductive. 39 Wohlmuth 2017 Ried Hochsteinriegl Drink 2022–2035. Black Lamb Wine. —A.K. Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Subtle Château Haut-Monplaisir 2016 Pur Plaisir 95 13% $80 elderflower, fern and grass on the nose attain an abv: Price: 95 (Cahors). This top wine from an organi- incredibly rounded richness on the palate. The cally run estate is powerful. Black fruits aged in green tartness is plumped out with Mirabelle new wood have a perfumed, spicy character as plum ripeness and buffered by a rich, creamy 36 well as layers of toastiness. The rich, complex texture while a sparky streak of lemon zest keeps texture of the wine, with minerality contrasting everything focused. Texture, fruit and freshness the sweet berry flavors, sets it up for aging. A combine in a most winning fashion. Drink Fournié family wine, it will be ready from 2023. 2020–2030. VOS Selections. —A.K. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. 14% $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: Price: 33 40 Laurent-Perrier 2008 Millésimé Brut Monte da Ravasqueira 2015 Vinha das 96 (Champagne). While it is still young, this 94 Romãs (Alentejano). A blend of Touriga Champagne has all the makings of a great wine. Franca and Syrah has produced an immensely Quinta do Vale Meão 2017 Port. Ripe with Produced from grand cru vineyards, it already 96 succulent black fruits, this wine is also structured, darkly tannic single-vineyard wine. balances ripe white fruits with a firm structure immensely structured by a core of solid tannins. It has power and rich black fruits, with a fine that will age well. It’s relatively dry and has plenty Bright acidity gives the essential contrast to this perfume and layers of spice. The wine wears its of acidity, which will also aid in the longevity. power and contributes to its great aging potential. alcohol lightly, freshened by the acidity that lifts Drink from 2022. Laurent-Perrier US. —R.V. Drink from 2032. Deutsch Family Wine and the finish. Drink from 2022. Luiz’s Grocery and 12% $80 abv: Price: Spirits. —R.V. Liquors. —R.V. 14% $28 abv: 19.5% Price: $89 abv: Price: TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS I 2019 41 44 47 Isole e Olena 2016 Cepparello (Toscana). 96 Cedar, pipe tobacco, black-skinned fruit and balsamic aromas shape the nose along with French oak and iris. Full bodied and elegant, the savory palate has nice weight, doling out mature Marasca cherry, black plum, espresso, orange zest and spice while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. It’s still young, with tight-knit tannins, and needs time to come into its own. Drink 2023–2036. Petit Pois. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

42 Realm Cellars 2016 Houyi Vineyard (Napa Travaglini 2013 Riserva Gattinara. 98 Valley). This wine is deeply red-fruited 95 Focused and loaded with finesse, this wine in rich flavors of currant and cherry that are opens with aromas of rose, wild herbs, camphor complemented by accents of pencil shavings, and a whiff of dark spice. The bright palate offers dried herb and turned earth. The wine evolves precision and youthful tension, delivering sour constantly in the glass, and is confounding in its cherry, cranberry, licorice, orange rind and iron grippy, wide tannins and firm structure. Enjoy notes alongside fine-grained tannins and vibrant 2026–2036. —V.B. acidity. Drink 2021–2033. Taub Family Selec- abv: 14.6% Price: $250 tions. —K.O. 13.5% $60 abv: Price: 48 45 Château de Montmirail 2016 Cuvée de 94 Beauchamp (Gigondas). Hints of crushed Harper Voit 2016 Maresh Vineyard Old stone, savory dried thyme and lavender accent Obsidian Ridge 2016 Estate Grown Stunning lush blackberry and cherry flavors in this wine. 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills). A deep, 94 Vine Riesling (Dundee Hills). dark color and generous black-fruit aromas lead aromatics combine spicy citrus, tangy tropical A blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, to well-extracted flavors of blackberry, blueberry fruit and spun sugar notes. It’s tart, racy and it’s lavishly textured but anchored by restraint and black currant on the palate, while a thick complex, with the structure to age for 15 years or and earthiness. It drinks beautifully already blanket of fine-grained tannins wraps it all in. It longer, but delicious already. The vines date back but should improve through 2028. Kindred is huge in structure but matched by luxurious, to the early 1970s. Drink through 2034. —P.G. Vines. —A.I. 12.6% $30 14.5% $35 layered fruit and spice flavors. Best from abv: Price: abv: Price: 2023-2033. —J.G. 14.5% $32 abv: Price: 46 49 43 Bucci 2016 Villa Bucci Riserva (Verdicchio 95 dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Delicate, Cockburn’s 2017 Port. This wine’s opulent enticing scents of Spanish broom, botanical 96 intensity comes from the powerful herbs, beeswax and ripe citrus shape the nose. tannins. A jammy blackberry flavor shines Linear and supremely elegant, the vibrant palate through and is lifted by bright acidity. Depth and delivers ripe yellow peach, apricot, grapefruit and structure ensure long-term aging. Drink from mineral alongside tangy acidity. A classic varietal 2030. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. note of bitter almond graces the lingering finish. abv: 20.5% Price: $95 Hold for even more complexity. Drink through 2026. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $61

Trisaetum 2018 Wichmann Dundee 94 Riesling (Dundee Hills). This wine shows superb concentration and pinpoint focus. It’s loaded with flavors of Meyer lemon, grilled pineapple and lemon drop candy. Delicious already, it could easily last through 2035. —P.G. abv: 11.1% Price: $32 50 54 58 Stolpman 2016 Angeli Syrah (Ballard Gaja 2015 Costa Russi (Barbaresco). Latta 2015 Dana Dibble Freewater Rocks 95 Canyon). Dense and focused on the 99 Aromas of rose, violet, red berry and 94 Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This nose, this winery’s top bottling is built to last, baking spice mingle with a whiff of menthol on is the winery’s first offering of Syrah. There’s starting with aromas of elderberry, cola, wisteria the nose of this compelling, gorgeous red. The no mistaking the fruit comes from The Rocks and jasmine. Those flower elements extend to vibrant, full-bodied palate is all about flair and District, with the area’s hallmark aromas of olive, the palate, where crushed boysenberry, candied finesse, delivering crushed raspberry, Marasca fire pit, charcuterie, plum, dried herb, orange violets and black-pepper flavors are just starting cherry, licorice and a hint of tobacco, all framed peel and parsley that are intense but still show to coalesce. Patience will reward with more by taut, fine-grained tannins. Young and intense, a sense of subtlety. The palate is textured and savory elements, all wrapped in purple flowers. it will be ideal after a few more years of aging, rich but still in balance, full of fruit and savory Drink 2020–2036. —M.K. but will continue to develop for decades. Drink flavors. An insanely long, 30-plus-second finish abv: 14.5% Price: $68 2023–2040. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. caps it off. Best after 2021. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $485 abv: 14.1% Price: $45 51 Fritz Haag 2017 Brauneberger Juffer 55 59 94 Riesling Spätlese Grosse Lage (Mosel). Château Haut-Brion 2016 Pessac- Jean-Marc Brocard 2016 Les Clos Grand Savory tones of crushed slate, smoke and 100 Léognan. Immensely tannic, this is 95 Cru (Chablis). This is a structured wine, honeycomb are brightened by layers of concen- a great Haut-Brion, one of the finest for many ripe yet layered with minerality and a full texture. trated peach and apricot in this delicately years. It shows the severe side of this estate, Rich yellow and white stone fruits are cut with textured yet penetrating spätlese. It’s sweet and with a dense structure to match the powerful steely acidity that shows the wine’s aging ripe yet steely and filigreed, with a reverber- black fruits. Rich with berry flavors and lifted by potential. Coming from arguably the finest of the ating backbone of acidity. It drinks well now but enough acidity, the wine will age for many years. Grand Cru vineyards, the wine is still young. Wait it is likely to improve through 2035. Loosen Bros. Drink from 2026. Millésima USA. —R.V. until 2023. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. USA. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $650 abv: 13% Price: $90 abv: 8% Price: $34 56 60 52 Lavinea 2016 Lazy River Vineyard Corison 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Domaine le Clos du Caillou 2017 Les 94 Chardonnay (Yamhill-Carlton). This wine 95 Helena). In spite of a lightness to the 95 Safres White (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). was barrel fermented in 20% new French oak. palate weight, this is no doubt a serious wine. It’s Whisps of vanilla, orange blossom and tangerine It’s racy, inviting and aromatic, with sharp flavors complex and integrated, with intriguing aspects zest perfume this exuberant but also fresh-fruited of lemon, gooseberry, lime and cantaloupe. Tart of leather, earth and truffle. Soft and supple, it white. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and and stylish, it’s built for aging. Drink through shows flavors of clove, tart red raspberry and Clairette, it offers juicy lemon and Asian pear 2028. —P.G. cassis, and is deliciously memorable in every way. flavors that fall on the palate in plump layers. It abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Enjoy 2026–2036. —V.B. drinks gorgeously already but should gain more abv: 13.1% Price: $95 honey and marzipan notes well through 2030. North Berkeley Imports. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 57 Johanneshof Reinisch 2016 Holzspur 61 95 Pinot Noir (Thermenregion). A rather Monte del Frà 2013 Lena di Mezzo subtle nose reveals crisp red-cherry fruit. The 94 (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). 53 palate has a similar but promising reluctance. Inviting aromas of dark-skinned berry, pipe Bollinger 2004 R.D. Extra Brut Everything here is crisp, tart and reminiscent tobacco, cassis and cedar lead the way on this 98 (Champagne). The wine’s name stands for of red currant and cranberry. There is aromatic smooth, full-bodied, savory red. The concentrated recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne depth and a translucent purity. Only later does balanced palate doles out ripe black currant, was taken off its lees in 2018. That gave many the smokiness of oak envelope that lovely fruit, raspberry jam, nutmeg and pepper alongside years for it to develop its depth of flavor, its while fine tannins effect a gentle grip. This needs fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2029. Vision richness and its beautifully memorable toasty bottle age but will blossom into an elegant, light- Wine & Spirits. —K.O. flavors. Drink through 2028. Vintus LLC. —R.V. footed Pinot Noir. Drink 2022–2030. Circo Vino. abv: 15.5% Price: $60 abv: 12% Price: $300 —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS I 2019 62 67 70 Lapeyre 2016 La Magendia de Lapeyre Albert Morot 2016 Les Teurons Premier 94 (Jurançon). Sweet, concentrated and 94 Cru (Beaune). This firm and structured honeyed flavors are lifted by acidity and perfumed wine is rich in tannins and juicy black fruits. pear and apricot. This wine is as much about It shows plenty of fruit concentration, which freshness as sweetness. Light in feel, it’s poised pushes through its dense structure. Drink from and immediately delicious. It can be drunk now 2024. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. but will be better from 2020. Charles Neal Selec- abv: 13% Price: $56 tions. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 Vincent Girardin 2016 Corton. This is a 71 95 blend across various Pinot Noir parcels 63 of Corton Grand Cru vineyards. It is a powerful Resalte 2015 Origen Crianza (Ribera del wine, but the power is tempered by the elegant 93 Duero). This opaque, big red opens with Alpha Omega 2015 Proprietary Red (Napa texture and open red fruits. Its concentration is dark fruit and crude oil aromas smeared with 95 Valley). This is a blend of 71% Cabernet undeniable and very present, showing the way smoke. A deep, lush palate deals a ton of berry Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 11% Petit Verdot to long-term aging. Drink from 2025. Vineyard fruit, with flavors of blackberry, cassis and dark and 5% Merlot. Together, they present a powerful Brands. —R.V. plum transitioning seamlessly onto a long finish grip of tar, black cherry, blackberry, framed by graced by lemony oak. Drink through 2030. Toros abv: 13.5% Price: $130 supportive acidity and integrated oak. Let this & Vinos LLC. —M.S. one lie; enjoy 2025–2030. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $102 68 Cadence 2016 Camerata Cara Mia 72 94 Vineyard (Red Mountain). This wine is 64 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet René Muré 2017 Côte de Rouffach Riesling Quinta de la Rosa 2016 La Rosa Reserva Franc. Distinctive aromas of black cherry, 93 (Alsace). A floral, aromatic element of 94 (Douro). Wines selected after 18 months graphite, dark raspberry, fresh herb, flower and citrus creates a tender nose that recalls jasmine of aging in the cellar go into this impressive scorched earth lead to a fresh, flavorful palate and lemon. Concentrated juiciness ripples across blend. Dominated by Touriga Nacional, it has packed with fine-grained structured tannins. An the palate in citrus brightness and lingering flavors weight and a wonderful perfumed character that extended finish ups the interest. Give it at least 24 to savor. The finish is dry, lip-smacking and long. enhances the powerful tannins. Drink from 2022. hours to decant if drinking in the near term. Best Drink until 2030. Gargouille Collection. —A.K. Winesellers, Ltd. —R.V. after 2025. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.4% Price: $55 73 65 Alain Jaume et Fils 2016 Domaine Grand 69 95 Veneur Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf- du-Pape). Crisp sun-kissed cherry and wild- strawberry notes introduce this floral, perfumed wine. Made from predominantly old vines, it’s intensely concentrated and forward in fruit yet shaded by hints of violet, lavender and bramble. This full-bodied, unctuous wine with fine, gripping tannins should improve through 2030 and hold further. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $120

66 Robert Biale 2016 Monte Rosso Vineyard Niner 2017 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Marchesi Antinori 2015 Tignanello Zinfandel (Moon Mountain District Plush aromas of strawberry and cherry Leather, cassis, cedar, black- 94 93 95 (Toscana). Sonoma County). Sourced from a mountainous meet with subtle accents of clove, gingerbread, skinned berry and exotic spice aromas slowly site, this wine is brimming in mineral aspects cinnamon and flowers on the nose of this bottling shape the nose. Polished and savory, the refined, of volcanic ash and crushed rock. Tangy and from Jespersen Ranch. A strawberry flavor structured palate boasts an almost weightless expansive on the palate, it offers persistent tones dominates the palate, with touches of pepper and elegance while still delivering layers of juicy black of flowers, ginger and lavender that accent rich tobacco leaf, all framed by full tannins that hold cherry, blackberry compote, licorice and a hint baked plum. Enjoy 2021–2031. —V.B. firm into the finish. Drink through 2032. —M.K. of tobacco. Fine-grained tannins lend seamless abv: 14.4% Price: $68 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 support. It’s also surprisingly fresh and balanced for the hot vintage. Drink 2020–2030. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $125 TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS I 2019

not be opened before 2021. Becky Wasserman 74 Selections. —R.V. 81 abv: 13% Price: $42 Passing Time 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon 94 (Horse Heaven Hills). Predominantly sourced from the Discovery and Champoux 78 Vineyards, this wine offers aromas of scorched Rutini 2015 Apartado Gran Malbec earth, cassis, cherry, bay leaf and whiffs of green 94 (Mendoza). Given that 2015 was a tough pepper. There’s an exquisite sense of balance, year in Mendoza, especially for high-expression intensity, density and granularity to the palate, reds like this, Apartado is an unbridled success. with chocolaty flavors on the finish. It has a long This is round, ripe and complex on the nose, with life in front of it. Best from 2025–2030. —S.S. exotic aromas of cardamom, spiced blueberry abv: 14.8% Price: $80 and rubber. The palate feels bold, crisp and bright. Flavors of blackberry, boysenberry and mixed spices drop off little by little on the finish. Louis Roederer 1996 Cristal Drink for years to come; cellar through 2035. 82 100 Vinothèque Brut (Champagne). A re-release from one of the legendary vintages of Graziano Imports. —M.S. Château de Fuissé 2017 Le Clos Monopole abv: 14.5% Price: $90 (Pouilly-Fuissé). This smoky, wood-aged the last 30 years, this Champagne still shows 94 some of the intense acidity that marked that year. wine comes from a walled vineyard next to the It has gained maturity, but it’s still an ageless, Château de Fuissé. Produced from old vines, it magnificent wine. Although it is ready to drink, it 79 has concentrated apple and pear flavors, a touch will hold well through 2030. Maisons Marques & of spice as well as bright acidity. The generous, Domaines USA. —R.V. opulent character will allow it to age. Drink from 2022. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $1,100 abv: 13.5% Price: $87 75 Law 2016 Beyond Category (Adelaida 83 94 District). This atypical blend of 56% Tempranillo, 24% Grenache and 20% Graciano begins with impressive density to the nose, where aromas of concentrated violet and blackberry paste converge. The palate’s immense yet balanced concentration carries cassis and black- Mt. Brave 2015 Cabernet Franc (Mount cherry flavors into waves of lavender and singed 94 Veeder). This is 100% varietal and oak. The tannins will uphold these flavors for remarkably impressive, true to form in earthy years. Drink 2020–2031. —M.K. aromas of violet and sage. The mountainous 15.5% $75 abv: Price: appellation contributes girth and breadth, as well as densely layered texture and grip. Around the fullness are beautiful flavors of chocolate, graham 76 cracker and blueberry. This will cellar well; enjoy 2025–2030. —V.B. Figgins 2016 Estate Red (Walla Walla abv: 15% Price: $80 94 Valley). In this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot, the aromas are all about dark fruit, flower and spice, with notes of anise, blackberry jam, soil and black 80 cherry as well as a generous pinch of spice Hidalgo 2012 Gran Reserva Tradición H following. Luscious, full and highly structured 93 (Rioja). Heady aromas of malted milk fruit flavors follow. The impressive acidity ball, ripe berry fruits and tobacco are warm and maintains balance. Its best years are far ahead of welcoming. Hailing from a warm year, this feels Penley Estate 2016 Eos Cabernet it. Open after 2025; it will have an easy decade full but playful, with tannins that are only mildly 94 Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Penley’s top or more of excellent drinking beyond that. —S.S. scratchy. Flavors of vanilla, tobacco, butter, herb wine has a lot going on. Aromas include mint, 14.8% $85 abv: Price: and dried berry fruit are textbook for Rioja gran dark chocolate, violet, currant, dried herbs and a reserva, while this takes a while to fully unfold on prominent streak of graphite. The palate is knit the finish. Drink through 2035. Hidalgo Imports, together with fine-grained, tightly wound tannins LLC. —M.S. and seamlessly balanced by silky-textured 77 14% $45 abv: Price: fruit and acidity. This should age beautifully Stéphane Aladame 2016 Les Vignes for many years. Drink 2020–2033. Old Bridge 93 Derrière Premier Cru (Montagny). From a Cellars. —C.P. small premier cru in the south of the appellation, abv: 14.6% Price: $100 this wine has a taut texture and bright minerality. It has a tight structure that is crisp in a citrus fruit flavor. The wine needs time, and should TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS I 2019 84 87 90 Alheit 2017 Magnetic North Chenin Blanc Domaine Fouassier 2017 Le Clos de Sixto 2016 Roza Hills Chardonnay 94 (Citrusdal Mountain). Lemon balm, 93 Bannon (Sancerre). Biodynamically 93 (Washington). This wine comes from cinnamon bark, yellow field flowers, spiced orange grown grapes from a small walled vineyard vines planted in 1977 at 1,350 above sea level— tea, just-dried straw and lightly toasted apple produce this beautifully balanced wine. Its clean high by the state’s standards. Half fermented in skin all dance on the nose of this ethereal and lines and crisp acidity contrast with hints of concrete with the rest in oak barrel before being superbly attractive wine. The mouthfeel is fruited tropical fruit and are all part of a wine that has aged in puncheons, aromas of toast, pineapple, and rounded yet balanced and textured all at once, a strong future. The wine’s structure and flinty lanolin, cream and spice lead to a full-bodied with a lovely bitterness and a lick of salted butter texture should soften over the years. Drink from palate, with textured tropical-fruit flavors. It’s that play against the ripe orchard and citrus fruit 2021. Opici Wines. —R.V. a tasty, full-bodied, rich, stylistic offering of the flavors. Lingering notes of waxy melon, orange abv: 13% Price: $50 variety that need some time in the cellar. Best rind and whole spice like nutmeg and allspice after 2023. —S.S. unfold on the long, lightly nutty finish. It’s a abv: 14.5% Price: $55 charmer that’s hard to resist but will age well through 2030. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. 88 abv: 14% Price: $100 91 San Román Bodegas y Viñedos 2015 Toro. 93 Classy aromas of lemony oak, cigar box, 85 bramble and berry fruits set up a massive palate with fierce tannins and years of aging potential. Dark, toasty flavors of pure cacao, charred oak and black fruits finish with power and structure. Decant if drinking anytime soon; best from 2022 onward. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Lamadrid 2017 Single Vineyard Reserva 92 Cabernet Franc (Agrelo). Aromas of Bodegas Riojanas 2011 Monte Real Gran blueberry and black currant are focused yet 93 Reserva (Rioja). Blackberry, prune, raisin, intense on the nose. The saturated palate leather and tar aromas are full but refined on brings dark plum and light herbal flavors that the nose. On the palate, this is tight and finely only improve with airing before finishing on a focused. Flavors of blackberry, vanilla and coffee lingering note of mint. Drink through 2030. Vino finish steady, with calm, complex notes of tobacco Del Sol. —M.S. and marzipan rising to the fore of a steady finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Drink this excellent gran reserva through 2030. Bodegas Riojanas. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $47 89 Salwey 2015 Oberrotweiler Henkenberg 93 Pinot Noir GG (Baden). Prominent notes 86 of smoke, char and bramble mingle into zesty, Penfolds 2014 Grange Shiraz (South invigorating bites of crisp black plum and cherry. Kalleske 2016 Greenock Shiraz (Barossa 97 Australia). The latest vintage of this iconic 93 Valley). One of the Barossa’s long standing Full bodied and velvety on the palate, it’s equal wine is more approachable and elegant than in families has produced another classy, full-bodied, parts savory earth tones and pristine fruit, but previous years. This 98% Shiraz and 2% Cabernet single-vineyard Shiraz. The nose whispers rather needs a bit more time to meld. Open from 2021. Sauvignon blend offers an ocean of aromas: plum, than shouts its aromas of cherry, currant, coffee, It should improve through 2030 and hold further mocha, coffee, tomato leaf, black olive, ground dark chocolate and baking spices. The palate is still. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. pepper, cedar, wet tarmac and sage. These tones 13% $50 tightly wound, with grainy, woody tannins and abv: Price: swell toward a beautifully balanced palate that tangy plum and cherry fruit. Finely structured is powerful yet poised and silky in texture. The for the long haul, this could be drunk now with American oak is there but feels quieter than it has a decant or cellared through 2035. Hudson Wine in the past, letting other nuances wash ashore, all Brokers. —C.P. held afloat by fine-grained herb and salt-flecked 14.5% $50 abv: Price: tannins. While other vintages seem untouchable in their youth, the 2014, with time in decanter, could offer immediate gratification yet still cellar well through 2044. Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $850 TOP 100 CELLAR SELECTIONS I 2019 93 95 98 Duckhorn 2015 Three Palms Merlot Te Mata 2017 Coleraine (Hawke’s Bay). Trapiche 2015 Terroir Series Edición 93 (Napa Valley). Reduced and brimming 93 The latest vintage of Te Mata’s top red is a 92 Limitada Finca Laborde Single Vineyard in barrel oak, this is a full-bodied, concentrated wine for the cellar. It offers cassis, black licorice, Cabernet Sauvignon (La Consulta). A mix of and ageworthy wine, flavored in strong layers bay leaf, ground black pepper and graphite notes forest and floral aromas frames berry notes on the of baked plum, cinnamon and soy. As it opens, on the nose. The palate brings chalky tight- attractive nose. Full extraction and heavy tannins generous helpings of blueberry and fig figure grained tannins that knot firmly around the make for a weighty palate that needs more time, into the mix, adding to the complexity. Enjoy tongue. But all is in place for this wine to develop while this Cabernet tastes like a bowl of plums 2025–2030. —V.B. into an elegant and classy drop. Just give it time. and blackberries. On the finish, licorice and burnt abv: 14.7% Price: $98 Drink 2021–3034 and likely beyond. Wine Dogs toast notes rise up. Drink through 2025. The Imports LLC. —C.P. Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 94 96 99 Viña el Principal 2014 Memorias (Maipo 92 Valley). Flower, plum and berry aromas are spicy and lightly herbal on the nose. They do a good job of capturing the essence of this Cabernet Sauvignon, which includes about one-third Syrah and Petit Verdot. A loaded palate is rough and tumble, while this tastes of spicy, foresty berry fruits. Oak, espresso and toast flavors along with heat are the big four on the finish of this cellar- worthy red blend; drink through 2028. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $58

100 Ata Rangi 2016 Pinot Noir (Martin- 92 borough). Like many of this renowned producer’s wines, this is a bottle to take your time with. It changes with every pour, from bright cranberry and raspberry fruit to licorice; from Santa Rita 2014 Triple C Estate Bottled dried roses and violets to sandalwood and savory (Maipo Valley). Earthy aromas of berry 92 spice. The palate is medium bodied and silky Château d’Esclans 2017 Garrus Rosé fruits introduce a flush palate that sizzles with textured, with tightly wound, leathery tannins 93 (Côtes de Provence). This is a rich, acidity. Flavors of black fruits and toasty oak impressive wine, with spicy flavors from wood finish warm and spicy. All that energy and acidity and fruit that feels like you could take a bite out of aging that are well integrated with the ripe berry means this will last another decade or more; it. Through it all is Ata Rangi’s signature mineral fruits. Together, they give intensity, sophisti- drink through 2034. DFV Wines. —M.S. streak. For all its appeal, however, this wine is still a baby, elegant and complex but austere. cation and power, making this a perfect candidate abv: 14.5% Price: $40 to enjoy alongside food. Drink now, although the Drink through 2028. Verity Wine Partners. —C.P. 13% $80 wine should age well through 2022. Shaw-Ross abv: Price: International Importers. —R.V. 97 abv: 14% Price: $100 Tablas Creek 2016 Esprit Blanc De Tablas 92 (Adelaida District). Loads of white flower, guava peel and orange blossom aromas show on the nose of this blend of 75% Roussanne, 18% Grenache Blanc and 7% Picpoul Blanc. Light pear, peach and guava flavors make for a mellow expression that will age for years but is drinking great now. Drink until 2030. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $45

To download this year’s list, visit winemag.com/cellarselections2019