THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 FRESH RECIPES | NEWS | WINE & BEER | REVIEWS
WELL+ PRESERVED Susannah Carr’s lemons. P9 Truffl e Kerfuffl e Guy Grossi headlines the foodie event of the season
EATING IN Recipes laced with black magic. P8-9 | GOOD OIL South West’s Olio Bello. P10 THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
2 FIRST BITE FRESH Broadbrush Thursday, June 5, 2014 Rhiannon Birch INDEX Rob Broadfield with her Fraser’s A taste for this week mentor, Chris Taylor. Picture: Broadbrush ...... 2 Sharon Smith Guy Grossi & Truffle Kerfuffle ...... 3 Truffle dogs & Matt Skinner ...... 4-5 Fonty’s Pool & truffle stories ...... 6-7 Recipes and Susannah Carr...... 8-9 Food News & beer...... 10 Wine & review...... 11 Grilled ...... 12
WA Day has come and gone for another year. It seems to be growing in strength and recognition as WA’s special day of celebration. The naming of the COVER Guy In what can only be described as a Bon voyage old mate and hurry West Australian of the Year is a gala event over the Grossi bombshell, Andre Mahe, the head back. Taking over the reins from long weekend. So too is the WA’s Signature Dish PHOTO chef at Must Winebar, has Mahe is Diego Cossio, just returned competition — an innovation this year with heats in Nathan Dyer announced he is leaving the much- from a stint at The Ledbury in regions around the State culminating in the grand awarded Highgate bistro after 13 London, with career stops at final in Perth last Monday, WA Day. FEATURES EDITOR Mark Mallabone, 9482 3574 years. Mahe, an unfailingly cheerful Tetsuya’s and Quay in Sydney. It was a resounding success: bringing together [email protected] and modest son of a Brittany MasterChef-style competition with strong messages EDITOR charcutier has produced the best One of Broadbrush’s scouts — a about local produce, farmers and producers. Hermione Stott 9482 3451 charcuterie in Perth for many years young man with a penchant for The winner was Rhiannon Birch, pictured here with [email protected] (his parfait and pate en croute are cocktails — alerted us to the fact her designated chef mentor Chris Taylor and WA’s STAFF WRITER Olga de Moeller sublime) and created some of the that it is Negroni Week. It might Signature Dish for 2014, lamb rack with lupin za’atar WINE Ray Jordan most memorable bistro dishes in sound a little random but if you can crust. A worthy winner. BEER Vic Crossland town. have prostate week and animal And kudos to those chefs — it’s always the same CONTRIBUTORS Connie Clarke, Mark Irving, Mahe leaves in early August with welfare week, why not Negroni guys who willingly put their hands up for these sorts Emma Chitty a long trip through Spain, France, Week? (A Negroni, by the way, is a of events and give their time for free — who mentored DESIGN Rory Tyson Italy and England on the cards. potent, bitter, aperitif-style cocktail contestants and judged the event: Pete Manifis, David ADVERTISING Marissa Owen “I’ll be back in Australia in invented in Italy). Further Coomer, Guillaume Brahimi, Ralf Vogt, Chris Taylor 9482 3754 October and I’ll consider my next examination of Negroni Week and Sophie Zalokar. phase then,” Mahe told Broadbrush. found that it is not a universally Go online to thewest.com.au/lifestyle for the “I would love to open a business on accepted week of celebration. In winning recipe. my own like a charcuterie; fact it’s specific to ACE Pizza in something a bit modern and up to Highgate, where they’ve been MONDO date with the times. That may be making $10 negronis all week with Forests produce such as pink lady BUTCHERS on agenda next year.” a $1 from each going to Leukaemia apples, persimmons, walnuts, Foundation. finger limes, marron and the star of OPENING HOURS You’ve got two the show — the first truffle of the TUES - FRI 8am - 6pm days left to share season. SAT 7am - 2pm DAILY HOT Roast Meat the negroni love Boatshed owner Michael Pember Sangers YUM YUM YUM at ACE. and Manjimup truffle grower Al Ph 9371 6350 Blakers will auction off the first 824 Beaufort Street Inglewood The Southern truffle of the season to support www.mondo.net.au Forests region of Muscular Dystrophy WA. The WA continues to inaugural Truffles for Muscles roll out its Auction will take place today at high-profile Kailis Bros, Leederville. publicity and engagement Full transparency demands that I strategies with share some news with you. I have the recently taken an equity stake in a announcement restaurant business. It is the Wine of a partnership Store+Kitchen in East Fremantle. It Now open at with the comes with a liquor store, which the Fremantle Boatshed should be a matter of grave Cottesloe. concern for my business partners. Markets “Genuinely (Seriously though) It’s important Southern that our readers are aware of this Forests” because, when all is said and done, produce will be the only commodity a restaurant featured at the reviewer/commentator has to trade Boatshed until is his credibility, ethical conduct Follow Rob June 14 and fearless reporting — none of Broadfield on including which, I assure you, will be twitter at seasonal compromised by this modest @robbroadfield Andre Mahe. Picture: Michael O’Brien Southern investment.
5th & 6th JULY 9am…5pm THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE 3
Tantalising First-class treasures • Truffles are mushrooms which have evolved to grow underground. Their fruit is a fungal fare lump of spores, which emits an aroma when it matures to attract hungry animals so they dig it up, eat it and let Guy Grossi and other top nature take its course. Simple. chefs are off to Manjimup • It’s the aroma that carries the flavour: earthy, mouldy, ife is busier than ever for sweaty, musty. It exudes up My Kitchen Rules guest to 80 different components. judge Guy Grossi, juggling Without aroma, the truffle Lfive Italian restaurants doesn’t taste like much. with his charitable work and latest • There are hundreds of cookbook, Love Italy, as he prepares species, even a to head west for the Truffle psychoactive one, but the Kerfuffle, at Fonty’s Pool in two most aromatic and Manjimup, from June 27-29. expensive are the Tuber The veteran chef is a natural, magnatum, or the white born and bred in Melbourne where truffle, and the Tuber he honed his skills, and is most in melanosporum, otherwise his element at his Bourke Street known as the Perigord or flagship, Grossi Florentino, with its French black truffle, the honest, regional cuisine. “We like most commonly cultivated to have a place of origin and focus in Australia. for our food, so you don’t just end • They’re expensive — up with dishes thrown together for top-grade Perigords are creativity’s sake,” he said. $2500-$3000/kg — “In addition to that, Melbourne because they’re difficult to Italian has its own style, just like grow, in decline in the wild New York Italian, because food and in high demand. There evolves and draws on the are seven growers in influences around it. Obviously, I Australia — five in WA — love pasta, in particular my producing commercial mother’s tagliatelle — it brings quantities and more than back memories of growing up.” 150 fledgling trufferies. His ultimate food indulgence is Chef Guy Grossi at his flagship Melbourne restaurant, Grossi Florentino. Picture: Nathan Dyer white truffles from Alba in Italy, shaved over a dish called the and Harvest dinner launch, which to include Sunday and make it and a Farmer’s Long Table lunch “prince and the pauper” — is sold out, on June 27. Grossi will more accessible to people.” ($125) on June 29 presented by Food handmade long pasta with potato. do the marron course; Michele There will be stalls selling Land Culture with chefs Sophie “They’re an amazing luxe Forbes, from Trustee Bar & Bistro, gourmet goods, such as pickled Budd, Kiren Mainwaring (Dear experience and hideously an amuse bouche; Peter Manifis walnuts, jams and flavoured Friends and Co-op Dining) and Joel expensive,” he said. “We pay (Incontro), the entree; Philippe almonds, a bustling farmers’ Valvasori-Pereza (Lalla Rookh). anything up to $7000/kg. Some Mouchel (PM24), the main; Guy market and activities galore, “It’s going to be bigger than Ben Perigord did come through (from Jeffries (Millbrook Winery), a including half-hourly truffle hunts Hur,” said Manjimup Truffles’ Al Europe) but it’s nice to use local cheese plate, and Curtis Duffy, from ($40), masterclasses ($65-$145), Blakers, who was expecting the produce, so we draw on Manjimup two-Michelin starred Grace, in paddock-to-plate food discussions “king of caviar”, Raphael Bouchez, quite a bit. I don’t know if it has Chicago, dessert. with radio journalist and author from Kaviari, Paris, to drop in. anything to do with terroir, but “We try to keep the dinner Louise FitzRoy, a three-course Blakers is gearing up for a Manjimup truffles are amazing.” launch menu hush-hush until the Hunt and Harvest long-table lunch bumper season as crops mature Grossi is looking forward to night for that element of surprise,” ($125) on June 28 prepared by and has been fielding calls since going on a truffle hunt at the Truffle Kerfuffle president Sonia Aaron Carr, from Vasse Felix, mid-May from chefs in Perth eager Truffle Kerfuffle and will join a Porter said. “This year, we’ve Danny Angove (Leeuwin Estate) for their share. He was due in Perth line-up of top chefs for the Hunt extended the event over three days and Scott Bridger (Bib & Tucker) this week with his first pick. “Give it another 10-15 years and Manjimup will become the truffle GUY GROSSI’S FRESH TRUFFLE SAUCE INDULGENT centre of the world,” he said. “I export 70-100kg of truffles in season This is a simple sauce for veal ravioli. Make your own, or buy and expect that to double in the fresh from an Italian grocer. next three or four years. France had a poor season because of heavy Makes about 17 serves To cook, bring water to the boil rains, so our truffles will be in big at 2-3 ravioli per serve, and add salt. Meanwhile, melt demand — and we haven’t tapped depending on size the butter in a pan with the sage into the world’s biggest markets, and leave to the side. Add your like Russia. Locally, I’d sell 8-10kg a large pot water ravioli to boiling water and cook week.” small handful salt for four to five minutes, strain Olga De Moeller 250g unsalted butter and transfer to pan with butter 1 bunch sage, chopped and sage. Toss with parmigiano 150g reggiano and serve with sliced fresh The Truffle Kerfuffle will be held at Fonty’s Pool parmigiano truffle on top. in Manjimup, June 27-29. More information and 10g truffle, sliced tickets at trufflekerfuffle.com.au. THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 4 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE Good nose for the job Animal instincts are handy, finds CONNIE CLARKE
s top-flight chefs in North America put the finishing touches on Atheir summer menus, many eagerly await their delivery of Perigord truffles from WA’s Southern Forests region. At La Toque in Napa Valley, California, chef Ken Frank is excited to embark on his restaurant’s second summer season himself how the fungal delicacy is “The industry then turned to Booth — now chief executive of the Truffle dog with fresh black winter truffles grown in the west. dogs because while they love the district’s biggest trufferie, The handler Melanie from The Truffle & Wine Company The demand from Europe, North hunt, they don’t see the truffles as Truffle & Wine Company — Viva Booth and her in Manjimup. America and Hong Kong has been food. Instead of wrestling a and another trusty companion, superstar truffle “Last year their perfume was growing at break-neck speed, and 100-200kg sow, you’re dealing with a black labrador Rani, the Booths hunter, Viva. extraordinary, every bit as good as this year the Southern Forests’ 20kg dog, who is usually eager to have helped turn the local industry Picture: Ian the finest European truffles,” he three leading trufferies will please.” into a multimillion-dollar Munro said. “We are excited to be able to produce close to seven tonnes of the Although she is WA’s most enterprise. pair fresh winter truffles with black gold during the upcoming experienced truffle dog handler, Ms “Viva and Rani have probably summer ingredients to create three-month harvesting season. Booth fell into the industry when a found more truffles between them delicious combinations never Fetching more than $2200/kg, it’s former Australian Customs than any other dogs in the before possible.” a lucrative export business for WA colleague, who started his own country,” Ms Booth said. “They’ve So confident is fellow Napa chef growers, who produce more than 80 truffle farm in Manjimup, reached been the mainstay of our business. Thomas Keller in WA’s product, per cent of Australia’s truffles. out for help. I’ve been taking them to 30 separate that he’s already using the While the region’s karri-loam “There was no one in WA at the orchards for the past two years, and preserved gourmet mushrooms in soils and Mediterranean climate time capable of training the dogs,” to a couple in the hills of Perth. his pasta dishes at his iconic The are credited with producing the Ms Booth said. “I joined Customs “They absolutely love it — they French Laundry. world-class fungus, it’s man’s best in 2000 and by the end of 2004 I was sulk if they can’t hunt. They have a Meanwhile, not content simply to friend that makes digging for working with the dog unit in great nose and they are fantastic wait for his delivery, Chicago’s truffles ultimately possible. Canberra — it was a narcotic unit pets as well as wonderful truffle Grace Restaurant chef Chris Duffy “Without them, there would be and I’d had plenty of training in dogs.” will join others from around no industry,” Truffle Dogs WA’s working with the dogs on scent Rani, whose father was one of the Australia at Manjimup’s Truffle Melanie Booth said. “The truffles association. Queen’s hunting dogs, holds the Kerfuffle, from June 27-29, to see for live underground and we need the “I took some leave and joined a record between the two prolific dogs to sniff them out. Once upon a dig in 2007 with our white labrador hunters. time in Europe they used pigs but Viva. She had been a prisons dog, She sniffed out a truffle two years there were a lot of fingers missing so she was trained in scent ago that weighed almost a kilo. because the harvesters had to fight association and accustomed to Viva isn’t far behind, with her best DTHM010514
π the pigs who wanted to eat the what was required.” find weighing in at just under truffles. Along with her husband Gavin 800g. 2345384-1 Hunting for treasure When they set out on their first hunt of the season, Viva, Rani and Lola can hardly contain their excitement. Despite an early start on cold mornings, the loyal labradors are raring to go. Truffle Dogs WA’s Melanie Booth and the dogs will cover several kilometres a day sniffing out the prized truffles that will end up on the Includes: plates of diners in Europe, North America and Hong Kong. “When we reach areas in the orchard that are heavy in truffle it Toast, bacon, eggs, sausages and becomes an amble but we walk anywhere between 10 and 15km every hash brown – free percolated day and search somewhere between 1000 and 2000 oak and coff ee & tea (*continental breakfast extra) hazelnut trees,” Ms Booth said. “Somewhere between 50 and 70 per cent of the ripe truffle isn’t visible, so we need to train the dogs to sniff out the product that’s ready for harvest.” Ms Booth has trained her dogs to differentiate between immature truffles and those with the plump black flesh that chefs adore. “The key is finding something the dog really desires, like a toy she really loves. We play games together with that toy and some time later I’ll impregnate the toy with the smell of a ripe truffle, so it’s associated with pleasure.” Visit trufflekerfuffle.com.au. Lola the truffle dog. Picture: Sonia Kohlbacher
Tickets on Sale @ www.trufflekerfuffle.com.au
WHAT’S ON MASTERCLASSES, TRUFFLE HUNTS, FARMERS MARKET, 2014 KITCHEN THEATRE, GALA DINNERS & LONG TABLE LUNCHES southern forests 2014 CHEFS & CELEBRITIES from + SPECIAL GUEST CHEFS, Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, Lamont’s, 'hz'ZK^^/&ůŽƌĞŶƟŶŽ͕DĞůďŽƵƌŶĞI CURTIS DUFFY Grace Restaurant, food Print Hall, Incontro, Restaurant Amuse, Chicago I JAMES PARRY Sixpenny, Sydney I SHINICHI MAEDA Sake, The Trustee, Millbrook Estate, TasteBudds Brisbane I SHAWN SHEATHER Australian Good Food Guide festival MATT SKINNER Plumm Wineglasses Cooking studio & many more! June 27-29 @ Fonty’s Pool, Manjimup, WA
CHALETS AND CARAVAN PARK MANJIMUP, WESTERN AUSTRALIA THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE 5 Glass act is ready to blow you away Choose MARK IRVING a vino meets Matt Skinner “Like most people, I love truffles,” Matt Skinner said. e started his working life “I’ve known about Truffle as a bottle shop attendant Kerfuffle for a while and I’ve but within a decade Matt always been envious whenever HSkinner was a respected I’ve heard about it. I’m sommelier working with celebrity incredibly happy and feel very chefs such as Jamie Oliver and fortunate to be part of it this Tobie Puttock, and an year.” accomplished wine writer. But what to drink with “It’s now my 21st year in wine truffle-based dishes? full time,” Skinner said. “But I “Pinot has this lovely never got into it with a career in mushroomy, earthy character mind. I simply got into it because I Matt Skinner will to it which lends itself needed some money.” show the brilliantly to truffles,” he said. He said he was lucky that in 1993, difference of “And nebbiolo, while it has aged 18, his boss at the Hawthorn drinking wine those lovely savoury aromatic hotel where he worked decided to from a glass that flavours, lends itself really well send him on a wine course — was designed to truffles and has more tannin despite Skinner showing no real for it. Picture: to it than pinot noir, so you can interest in wine. And he felt Stephen Baccon change the kind of protein you similarly fortunate that he had a might be incorporating into a good teacher for that course. suitable for everyday drinking, and often revolve around a theme. and white versus colour. Or dish. Nebbiolo can handle Skip forward a few years and Skinner was impressed. “There’s no right or wrong in the listening to music. slightly more robust dishes as Matt Skinner is an award-winning “I was blown away by the fact class,” he said. “I’m not trying to “If you listen to a favourite album a result.” wine communicator heading to WA there were only five glasses in the ram down people’s throats ‘This is you can listen to it from a Not that truffles demand a for the Truffle Kerfuffle, where he range, not 50 or 500,” he said. what they must do at home’. It’s headphone on your phone or in red. Skinner says they work will host the Plumm Wine Glass “For as long as I’ve been writing simply an opportunity to open surround sound,” he said. beautifully with sparkling Experience. and talking about wine I’ve been people’s minds to a new experience, “The difference that surround wines and also chardonnay. Plumm is the brand of style- trying to communicate that wine an alternative.” sound makes is profound. And I Fresh asked him for some specific wine glasses launched in doesn’t have to be difficult or During the classes Skinner uses a think ultimately, if you care about WA wines that would suit a 2009 by a Melbourne-based family stressful or expensive — it should “comparison” glass — the standard what you drink you should care meal including truffles, and food and wine distribution only ever be simple and enjoyable.” wine glass that most people are about what you drink from.” here are his choices: business, Valcorp Fine Foods. The Skinner said the synergies familiar with. This enables them to Though Plumm’s glasses are the • Larry Cherubino Ad Hoc range includes handmade, between what Plumm was offering compare and contrast for only wine-specific glasses Cruel Mistress pinot noir machine-made, stemless and and what he was trying to do as a themselves the taste between a developed and designed in 2012 polycarbonate glasses for outdoor wine educator led to his greater standard glass and a glass Australia, they are actually made • Plantagenet sparkling brut use. Skinner was asked to involvement with the brand. specifically designed for that type in Europe. A wide search was 2009 contribute notes to Plumm’s Today, he’s the Plumm of wine. conducted to try to source the • Fraser Gallop Parterre catalogue of its five types of wine ambassador hosting wine glass So what does he say to the glasses from a manufacturer in chardonnay 2012 glass — two for reds, two for whites masterclasses at events such as argument that if a wine is good Australia but it was unsuccessful, • Xanadu Reserve chardonnay and one for sparkling wines. The Truffle Kerfuffle. enough, it will taste good out of any he said. The search went worldwide 2011 aim of the new venture was to These are fun and informal glass — even a plastic tumbler. and ended in Slovakia which • Singlefile Frankland River produce a range of glasses that was sessions, he says, which last It’s like watching television, he Skinner describes as “the home of cabernet sauvignon 2012 specific to different wines but also about 45 minutes and which replies, and making do with black great crystal stemware”.
H E U T R N O S
S F T O R E S have you ever TASTED GENUINELY?
–––– HOW DO YOU KNOW?
genuinely_southern forests_truffles
Taste is one of those things. It’s personal. It’s The Genuinely Southern Forests brand is your individual. But a funny thing happens if you give guarantee your food has been grown in soil so rich SOUTHERN FORESTS people a truffl e, a marron or an avocado that is and naturally fertile, it can support towering genuinely grown in the Southern Forests. Karri forests. These very same forests act as a natural manjimup Everyone says the same thing, “Why can’t they all barrier keeping pests and disease out, so your food is pemberton great northcliffe southern taste this good?” grown as naturally as possible. And because the region ocean adjoins the Southern Ocean the rainfall is abundant walpole THAT’S A GENUINE EXPERIENCE. and the temperatures mild, so produce ripens slowly
perth and gently, developing deep, intense fl avours.
It’s genuinely diff erent down here. You can see it. You can feel it. You can taste it.
southernforestsfood.com THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 6 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE 7 Fonty’s restored to its former glory Ginger packs punch One drink led to another for pregnant and wanted an Belinda and Rob Mikecz, who got alternative to alcohol,” Mr hooked on Rochester Ginger in Mikecz said. “The adult market EMMA CHITTY the UK and now import it for was well catered for with ‘hard Pickled walnuts distribution to a niche market drinks’ but not so much with visits the historic that wants a pick-me-up without interesting options for the hangover. It’s the real deal, those wanting to kick back in vogue venue, host of made by a third-generation back, relax and enjoy artisanal producer in Rochester, having a drink without rined, dried and pickled, walnuts are so much the truffle festival Kent, hence the name, to a 19th the unwanted effects of more than a nut. Bettina and Andrew Pretsel, century “Dickensian” recipe. alcohol, including from Pretsel Vineyard in Manjimup, pack them hen Jeremy Beissel “In fact, when people try it hangovers. Binto jars and bottles for a gourmet treat that and his wife Kelly they’re taken aback at how much “We have found was popular in 18th century Britain. They’re picked bought Fonty’s Pool it tastes like a stiff drink,” Mr Rochester Ginger is green in November-December and used whole, including Win April 2012, they Mikecz said. “It looks like whiskey relished by those for husk and developing shell. had big shoes to fill. They bought and has a similar texture but the whom it brings back “We have to wear gloves — otherwise your hands go the stunning property from the punch comes once it hits the memories of traditional black — and pluck them, one by one, off the tree,” Ms Fontanini family, who’d owned it back of the throat — a sure-fire drinks their Pretsel said. “Then they’re brined for a month, drained since Archie Fontanini bought the way to rejuvenate a jaded palate.” grandmother made — and put out to dry in the sun for a day or two but you land in 1907. Now, the restored With 14 per cent pressed those that often have to watch it’s not too hot. Traditionally, green Manjimup landmark site, which ginger root — compared with 2-3 exploded under the walnuts were used for making dye and in medicine.” originally opened to the public in per cent in most ginger drinks — house — foodies who The Pretsels make five varieties of pickled walnuts — 1925, is to host the Truffle elderflower, cowslip and raisins, love experimenting, they look like truffles on a passing glance — and a Kerfuffle for the third year it’s picked up a couple of world indulging and exploring pickled walnut vinaigrette with extra virgin olive oil running. beverage awards for non- new things, adults who and a touch of balsamic vinegar for punch. All will be “Previously we were fishermen alcoholic drinks and is a natural want the feeling of available at the Truffle Kerfuffle. from Leeman,” Mr Beissel said. neat, straight out of the bottle, having a drink without “They’re made to traditional recipes,” Ms Pretsel said. “We went looking for a change on the rocks or splashed into drinking alcohol and “The malt and apple-cider pickled walnuts are based on for our two girls and found Fonty’s mineral water with fresh mint and thrill-seeking Gen Xs British recipes and the white-wine pickled walnuts are by accident after seeing a for sale a slice or orange or lime. It can and Ys, who love the French.” ad in The West. also be mixed with fresh fruit punch and excitement it There are also honey-preserved walnuts with a “We loved it at first sight and juice or poured into green tea as delivers.” slightly salty ginger-lemon spice flavour. It’s based on a could see the potential.” a comforting warm drink. The Yarra Valley- traditional Persian recipe and they go down a treat in After their purchase, the There are three ginger drinks in based couple took a egg-based desserts, such as creme caramel, souffle, Beissels restored the historic the range, including a Rochester break from their cheesecake and baked custards. venue to include a cafe and Dark Jamaican Ginger and a corporate careers to travel the Her favourite is the vinaigrette, which is just as wedding reception and function Rochester Organic Lemon, Lime world seven years ago and fell in versatile as a gravy or sauce. “It’s great with marron, area, among newly planted trees, and Ginger, plus a Rochester love at first sip with Rochester crayfish and chicken, over salads, or as a marinade for new camping facilities and two Organic Mulled Berry Punch. All Ginger, which they’ve been steak and lamb chops,” she said. four-star chalets. are non-carbonated and will be promoting at food and lifestyle Pickled walnuts were traditional British Christmas “We’ve tried to create a venue available at the Truffle Kerfuffle. expos around Australia since fare in the 1700s when they were usually eaten with that can be great for both ends of The drinks have different coming back home. leftover cold meats on Boxing Day. Now they are on to the spectrum — a couple who just flavour profiles, depending on “We started by importing a high-end restaurant menus. want to have a coffee and a quiet where the ginger was grown and couple of cases, then a pallet, It’s a niche market that opened up visit, right up to the Truffle sourced. Chinese, Jamaican and and it’s just taken off from there,” for the Pretsels about five years Kerfuffle which may see Fijian varieties are used. Mr Mikecz said. ago with surplus walnuts from a thousands here,” Mr Beissel said. “It all started when my wife was Olga De Moeller 100-year-old tree planted by early “It’s a place where families can settlers on their 40ha vineyard, come and kids can play without “They turned up with No one is happier to see they swam in 2014 — it makes it all “With the international Fontys Pool which supplies grapes for labelled too much restriction — they machines, workers, Fonty’s Pool restored to its worthwhile.” significance of the black truffle in bloom. wines. Walnut trees of a similar rediscover what living is about, expertise and acts of former glory than those Mr Beissel said it’s important and the fascination with it, we’re Picture: age can be found from Albany to meet other people from all over generosity that returning after many they not underestimate the John Alford ‘We loved it at on display to the world.” H E R U T N haveif ityou says ever Donnybrook, along the Darling and wear themselves out.” very few places years — whether 20, 50, interest and enthusiasm for the There will be a bigger marquee O Scarp and even north of Perth. The help and care of the would be capable first sight and or in one case, 84. Truffle Kerfuffle when hosting the of stalls, food, wineries and S The couple now bottle about one Manjimup locals has been of. could see the “We have people turn highly anticipated event. produce and undercover bar. tonne of nuts, supplemented by paramount to the restoration of “The Fontaninis up every day and say they “The truffle is the greatest “We’ve put a lot of planning into TASTEDIT COMES GENUINELY? FROM HERE S crops from neighbouring farms. Fonty’s Pool. themselves were potential.’ swam here years ago,” Mr agricultural product as far as I’m the venue for the event and we’re F T O R E S They have also planted another 500 “The locals got behind us — extremely helpful Beissel said. concerned and our farmers were confident it will stack up,” Mr that actually –––– means trees, which should start without them, we never would and we’re proud to be “It’s fantastic that in smart enough to turn Manjimup Beissel said. “With any luck, Kelly producing in two years. have been able to get the result we great friends with them another 80 years time the kids into a world-leading producer,” he and I will be strolling around just ITHOW COMES DO YOU FROM KNOW? HERE. Olga De Moeller have,” Mr Beissel said. today.” visiting today will be able to say said. enjoying the day.”
“The Best of the Best Beef in WA” Paddock to Plate a passionate showcase for produce
Whenever she’s in WA, Louise FitzRoy because all of these experiences and can expect to be told that her voice this knowledge that the farmers have sounds familiar. could be lost if we don’t pass them on. It’s a common experience for the So I feel like my role with From Paddock Melbourne-based food writer and to Plate is helping pass on the tips and educator, and there’s a simple the tricks of the trade while at the same explanation: as a radio reporter at ABC time supporting agriculture. I hope South West, her voice was often heard people realise that, without farmers, on the airwaves. there would be very limited food on our Treeton Farm Beef is meticulously hand In fact, her popular Cold Esky shelves.” selected to achieve eating quality excellence. Challenge, the series of weekly reports From the Cold Esky Challenge a book she compiled in Bunbury as the station’s evolved — From Paddock to Plate — and Treeton Farm Beef available exclusively at: rural reporter six years ago, was the an eight-part video series she made to • Duxton Firewater Grille genesis behind From Paddock to Plate show schoolchildren where food comes genuinely_southern forests_cauliflower • Cable Beach Club Resort — a multimedia brand that Ms FitzRoy from. promotes around the country. She’s since released a Paddock2Plate It should go without saying. But it doesn’t. If it has that stamp you see on the top left of • Mahogany Creek Inn “I just fell into it,” she said. “As the iPhone app and regularly attends food • Rose and Crown Hotel rural reporter, you’re given a 20-minute events to spread the word to foodies. That’s because it’s not always easy to tell if this page it’s the genuine article; a guarantee • Heritage Bar and Grill slot every morning and this is the time Ms FitzRoy took From Paddock to something is entirely fr om a certain region your food has been grown with passion, care we get to create what we want to put to Plate to last year’s Truffle Kerfuffle or just kind of sort of fr om a certain region. and concern for the environment on one of air.” where the audience, she says, was the family farms that make up the Southern Ms FitzRoy decided she’d use the slot NOT DOWN HERE. “incredible”. Forests region, 300kms south of Perth. to focus on how food made its way to “I was overwhelmed by the audience our tables. So she set about participation,” she said. “They asked so It’s been grown in soil so rich it can support interviewing farmers and growers, many questions and they wanted to be taking their produce to local chefs and so involved. I can completely towering Karri forests. Nurtured in a region bakeries, and then talking with local understand why Truffle Kerfuffle has SOUTHERN so pristine and isolated, it is protected fr om winemakers about what to select with been increased to two days because FORESTS most pests and diseases. Ripened slowly in the recipes. there is that need.” a cool climate with abundant rainfall, so “I got to experience collecting honey The event also gave her a deeper manjimup pemberton intense fl avours develop. 2379530 ϖ SLMO200314 surrounded by bees, deep-sea insight into truffles’ place in cooking. “I great northcliffe southern fishing... and I remember collecting ocean “Treeton farm represents the best in WA produce, the beef is had no idea of the range of truffle uses If you’re looking for world-class produce, naturally raised in the beautiful fi elds of our southwest. truffles with a dog,” she said. out there,” she said. walpole Duxton Firewater Grille philosophy is of promoting the best of “It was pouring with rain and I was At this year’s Truffle Kerfuffle, Ms sessions aimed at children and talks “We teach how to grow truffles, how Louise FitzRoy with it’s on your doorstep. WA and Treeton Farm is at the top of the tree!” digging in mud, all my equipment was FitzRoy will lead 10 stage shows (five on from truffle growers, chefs and to cook with truffles . . . often people Damon Boorman perth Aaron Burrows – Executive Chef at Duxton Hotel Perth covered in mud — it was so much fun. both Saturday and Sunday) of about 40 winemakers as well as a truffle-dog are scared to cook with truffles. and Errol the dog. “I learnt so much and that’s why I’m so minutes each and she promises lots of demonstration. “But they don’t need to be.” passionate about Paddock to Plate different elements. They will include “It’s really interactive,” she said. Mark Irving southernforestsfood.com THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
8 EATING IN
Kirsty Carre ’Tis the season to truffle
WA’s black Parsnip puree and truffle- gold is finally infused scrambled egg BREAKFAST TREAT Infuse your eggs for exactly three days — available so any more and they will taste funky; any less and they will taste of nothing but egg. plate up and Serves 6 create a 2 parsnips 2 tbsp cream home meal 2 tbsp butter 6 eggs 1 that truly ⁄4 cup cream shines 6 pieces shaved truffle Use eggs that have infused with truffle for three days. To infuse, place whole, raw eggs and truffle in a glass airtight container and leave. When ready to eat, start with the parsnips; peel and top and tail them before chopping into even pieces, then steam or boil until completely tender. Puree with salt and pepper, cream and one teaspoon of butter and set aside. Whisk the eggs with cream and season with salt and pepper. Heat a non-stick pan, add remaining butter and turn the heat down to low, add the egg mix and stir over the gentle heat until you have soft curds. Spoon a little parsnip puree into an empty cleaned eggshell and then a For more recipes generous amount of scrambled egg. from Fresh go to Shave a piece of truffle over the top. thewest.com/lifestyle Serve immediately.
INNE W R WORLD NATURAL BEVERAGE
B E AWARDS S T N 2013 K O IN N R -A D A NON ALCOHOLIC DRINK LCOHOLIC WITH THE KICK OF 2VERY ANGRY MULES Bringing the World's Best Non-Alcoholic Beverage to the Southern Forests Rochester Ginger, awarded gold at the World Natural Beverage Awards, is coming to dƌƵŋĞ<ĞƌĨƵŋĞƚŚŝƐLJĞĂƌ͘ŝƐĐŽǀĞƌŚŽǁƚŚĞLJƵƐĞĚƚŽ ŵĂŬĞƌĞĂůŐŝŶŐĞƌĚƌŝŶŬƐďĂĐŬŝŶŝĐŬĞŶƐŝĂŶƟŵĞƐ͘͘͘ ǁŝƚŚƉƌĞƐƐĞĚŐŝŶŐĞƌŝŶĨƵƐĞĚǁŝƚŚĞůĚĞƌŇŽǁĞƌ͘ The holy grail for serious gingerholics. Stockists: rochesterginger.com.au
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9
Truffled wedges SUMPTUOUS SIDE Truffle oil is an economical way to get lots of flavour without Preserved having to buy a whole truffle. Just make sure you use good- lemons quality oil that uses actual truffle for flavour rather than one that uses chemicals to enhance the oil. Locally all the summer fruits Susannah Carr are gone and Serves 6 Cut each potato into eight wedges apples, pears and citrus are in full and place in a bowl of cold water, swing. If you have access to a 6 potatoes before draining, rinsing and rolling in lemon tree then lucky you! Time 1-2 tbsp a clean tea towel to remove excess to get preserving — and they are vegetable oil starch. Preheat the oven to 200C and easy to prepare. Simply wash your 1 tsp salt flakes then toss the potato wedges in the lemons, cut them three quarters 1 tbsp truffle oil vegetable oil, spread them on a of the way through, turn upside 2 tbsp grated baking tray and sprinkle with salt down, rotate, and cut again, parmesan before placing in the oven to roast for keeping them in one piece. Pack about 45 minutes. Just before each lemon with loads of salt and serving, drizzle over the truffle oil, put as many as you can into a big toss gently and serve with a sprinkle jar. Fill the spaces with spare of parmesan cheese. quarters and halves and add more salt. Throw in a couple of bay leaves, a cinnamon quill and some peppercorns and top with strained lemon juice, then let COMFORT FOOD Gnocchi and roasted cauliflower nature take its course for about six weeks. When they’re ready, with truffle preserved lemons have a lovely salty mildness and you only use If you have the time, this dish is so much better made the rind. Wash it, chop it and add with homemade gnocchi. The combination of truffle oil it your favourite dish. Try mixing it and fresh truffle make it a really luxurious winter meal. with breadcrumbs, parsley and a little olive oil for a great topping Serves 4 Cook the gnocchi in boiling salted on a piece of baked salmon or add water until just cooked and then it to a guacamole. No Moroccan 500g homemade drain and set aside. Toss the tagine is complete without it. Jars or quality shop- cauliflower in the vegetable oil and of preserved lemons also look bought gnocchi roast in a preheated 180C oven for great in your kitchen and make a 1 small cauliflower, 20 minutes or until just tender with fantastic gift for friends. cut into bite- some charring on the edges. Heat sized pieces the butter in a large non-stick 2 tbsp vegetable frypan with the garlic and sage oil leaves; add the gnocchi and brown 2 tbsp butter on one side then the other. Add the 1 clove garlic, cauliflower and stir gently to Photography Iain Gillespie minced combine, before removing from the Stylist Ursula Nairn 1 ⁄2 cup sage leaves heat and adding the truffle oil. 1 tsp truffle oil Season with salt and pepper. Divide 1 small truffle between four plates before shaving truffle over the top.
Truffled mushroom ragu on crispy polenta I made this dish with Fenella Peacock at a recent pop-up restaurant night we co-hosted and it was a huge hit, so I would like to share it with you.
Serves 8 Heat the milk and water in a large, heavy based saucepan until simmering, then in a steady slow 500ml milk stream pour in the polenta, stirring to avoid 1 litre water creating lumps. Keep stirring until the polenta is 300g polenta absorbed and thick and bubbling (the time will 1 ⁄2 cup grated parmesan depend on whether or not you have used instant 1 ⁄3 cup olive oil polenta). Stir in the parmesan. Oil a shallow 2 tbsp butter 20x15cm baking tray and pour in the cooked 2 cloves garlic, minced polenta. Cool then cover and store in the fridge. 1 tbsp thyme leaves This can be done the day before you cook the 1kg mixed mushrooms, some mushrooms. When ready to serve, preheat oven chopped, some left whole to 220C. Cut the polenta into squares or round 2 tbsp chopped parsley discs. Brush all over with a little olive oil and place 1 ⁄2 cup toasted hazelnuts, on a baking tray before crisping in the oven for 20 chopped minutes or until well browned. Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp truffle oil butter, garlic and thyme in a wide, shallow pan, 1 ⁄2 small truffle, shaved add the mushrooms and cook until soft. Season with salt and pepper, stir through the parsley and then spoon equal amounts over each plated disc VEGETARIAN or square of polenta. Sprinkle with hazelnuts and truffle oil and then shavings of truffle.
Popcorn with Makes 6 cups truffle salt 1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 ⁄2 cup popping corn DECADENT SNACK 2 tbsp melted butter 1 tbsp truffle salt
Truffle-salted Heat the oil in a large, popcorn is a heavy based saucepan decadent snack that and then pour in the can be enjoyed on a popping corn. Replace NEXT WEEK couch in front of a the lid and listen to the In Fresh don’t miss movie or served at a corn popping, when you our exotic Turkish cocktail party with can only hear one or two recipes champagne. pops per second, remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the butter and truffle salt and serve. THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
10 FOOD NEWS BERLINDA CONTI
It’s the good oil It has been 30 years since the original owners of Free sourdough workshops Olio Bello realised their vision to create an olive Artisan breads are so on-trend right now, so Kitchen grove on a perfect piece of land in Margaret River. Warehouse is hosting a series of sourdough A few years later, the 129ha estate was certified workshops with special guest and master bread organic and the first crop was harvested in 1992. maker Daragh Grier, from Wild Bakery in South “Olio Bello was the first producer in Australia to Fremantle. Using a Dutch oven, Grier will share his make ‘citrus pressed’ extra-virgin olive oil,” said tips and tricks on how to make sourdough and, of manager Shellie Gaskin, who added the cafe’s course, guests will have a chance to tuck into his legendary lime oil and rosemary cake — a moist freshly baked loaves. Workshops are free from and nutty syrup-covered teacake — has been 2-3.30pm on Saturday (Melville), Sunday, June 15 adored by visitors for more than a decade. Olio Bello manager Shellie Gaskin with some of (Cockburn) and Sunday, June 22 (Osborne Park). “The cake was invented by our previous chef the products. Picture: Iain Gillespie Visit kitchenwarehouse.com.au for more details. who decided to use up the leftover crusts from the sourdough bread we use for sampling,” she said. “We use the lime-pressed oil, roasted almonds, Portuguese pastry heaven rosemary from the garden and a little of our Support dementia programs homemade organic pane di casa bread instead of All this month, Alzheimer’s Australia WA is London-trained pastry chef and owner of Glory Box flour, which gives a denser flavour. Eggs and a Wedding Cakes Peter Smedley blew our socks off little sugar are added then we cover in syrup. encouraging West Aussies to “bring it to the with a tray of his authentic Portuguese “custard “It’s so popular we give the recipe to customers table” by hosting fundraising high teas, dinner pastels” (tarts) recently. Based on a technique — we’d never take it off the menu.” parties, picnics or barbecues, all in aid of dating back to the 18th century, the pastels have Olio Bello, unlike many commercial producers, recognising dementia and raising funds for AA been adapted to our Australian tastebuds and are a doesn’t bottle its product in bulk but rather WA’s vital support services and programs. Rally little less sweet than the originals. Think creamy bottles it in line with demand. up your pals because the highest fundraising We thought we’d cinnamon and vanilla custard surrounded by crisp, “Very few olive oil companies do this. We store host will win a fully catered dinner for eight, never see the day melt-in-your-mouth butter pastry. Baked fresh daily the oil in stainless steel in a coolroom and bottle cooked by charity ambassador, chef and our beloved Cherry (except Sunday). Orders need to be placed by 5pm by hand when we need it. That way, the oil doesn’t fishmonger Josh Catalano (pictured with fellow Ripe would be sold the day before, $39.60 per tray of 12. Find at 358 deteriorate and the freshness is retained,” said charity ambassadors Stefania Muscara and in a block. But until Charles Street, North Perth or visit glorybox.com.au. Mrs Gaskin, who is also a naturopath and the end of June, herbalist and is creating the brand’s Daniela Pirone). Visit bringittothetable.com.au Cadbury is indulging soon-to-be-released organic skin-care range. to register or follow Twitter feeds at GOT SOME FOOD NEWS? us with three limited- The extra-virgin olive oil range includes a long #BringItToTheTable or Send details to edition chocolate line of infused varieties such as the bestselling facebook.com/bringittothetableWA. [email protected] treats . . . and they’re parmesan oil, as well as vanilla, five fruits, chilli spreading the love. and cardamom and a recent release, ginger, garlic Find Cadbury Cherry and chilli. Ripe exclusively at The organic range, including its award-winning Coles (200g), Kurunba oil, is made entirely from the certified Cadbury Dairy Milk organic estate. Crackle (210g) at Also in the stable is an “estate range”, “estate independent MONDO pressed” and “pressed” citrus, basil and stockists and the Butchers Extraordinaire #14W2289701-3_5/6 passionfruit olives oils. new Cadbury Dairy Olio Bello is at 36 Armstrong Road, Cowaramup MANJIMUP Milk Picnic (210g — or visit oliobello.com. Stockists include Nosh think nuts, rice crisps Gourmet Food and Gifts in East Victoria Park, the and toffee) at FRESH TRUFFLES Boatshed Market in Cottesloe, Liquorice and Woolworths. Find The Romance Begins Fresh Provisions stores. Come See Our Fabulous Shop Come See Our Fabulous With The Aroma of Love! out more at Phone 9371 6350 824 Beaufort St, Inglewood facebook.com/ CadburyDairyMilk Australia, all $4.99. Beer barrel
Vic Crossland
Beer of the week Williams 7 Giraffes (5.1 per cent) Be amazed: with seven malts, three Fursty Ferret types of hop flowers — UK, US and (4.4 per cent) European — elderberries in the boil and As an understated lemon juice at the end, Scotland’s alternative to Williams Bros have brewed a unique ubiquitous American strong bitter ale. It smells tangy, floral pale ales, this English and tastes of rye, coffee, creamy best bitter exhibits as chocolate, spice, citrus and herbs. much character as Remarkable. the ferret rumoured to have sneaked into Belhaven Twisted Thistle (5.3 per cent) the Badger brewery The thistle represents Scotland, the to sip from the brewery’s home for 295 years; the twist 2013 HOWARD PARK fermenter. Copper is combining British hops with a New GREAT SOUTHERN red, poured with a World variety. The result is a firm white head, the copper-coloured, full-bodied, RIESLING Dorset brew is melon-sweet, chewy malty, deeply plum superbly flavoured and apricot tasty, rather bitter and Announced as one of and balanced. pleasingly refreshing India pale ale. Lemons, peaches, Matthew Jukes’ 100 Best fresh grass, earthy Spider Cider (5.5 per cent) Australian Wines 2014/2015 hops and spice The Cidery at Bridgetown calls this titillate the nostrils. “natural dry cider” and it is: made from Roasted nuts, tasty crushed apples and bubbly from toffee, vanilla and champagne yeast, there’s nothing liquorice sweetness added — not even water. Smelling apple on the palate lead to fresh from the 330ml bottle, smooth www.burchfamilywines.com.au a crisp, dry finish with and slightly sweet, it evolves citrus-sharpened green-apple crisp to a dry, lingering bitterness. aftertaste. THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014
REVIEWS 11 Pictures: Iain Gillespie
1-9 Don’t bother 10-11 Patchy 12-13 Good 14 Recommended 15-16 Very good 17 Memorable 18-19 Classic/nearing Cellar talk perfection 20 Perfection
Ray Jordan
Wine of the week
Azahara pinot grigio 2013 ($15) As a general rule I take pinot grigio with a bit of ho-hum indifference. And that’s flattering it. But then you get something such as this wine across your tasting bench and things change. In the first place it’s different and Virtue of out there both in aromas and palate. There’s actually some interest in here and I admit to returning to it a number of times trying to get a better handle on simplicity Workshop Espresso’s Bridget Robertson and Christian Proud. what I was tasting. It has intense spicy aromas of pear and apple crumble. The palate is as dry as chips but with excellent flavour No-fuss cafe does what it says, writes MAX BREARLEY intensity. Gee, I’d reckon I was Workshop Espresso my appetite and the pocket for a beef and plentiful but not drinking something from Italy weekday breakfast. Bacon and egg overpowering horseradish. here. Lovely aperitif style of wine Address: 206 Cambridge Street, wraps, with a simple relish, now Peppered with rocket, it’s how it with plenty of freshness and life. Wembley seem sadly to be off the menu but I should be done. Smoked salmon, Score: 92/100 Open: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, can hope for their return. avocado and cream cheese is Friday 8am-6pm, Thursday 8am-7pm, Back for lunch, it’s a Wednesday, evenly balanced, nothing Saturday 8am-5pm. which means we miss the Tuesday overpowering the salmon and The buzz: Simple charm from stripped- Reubens Special. So what, most tightly enough packed as not to brick walls to a one-page menu. would say, but for me, to miss out suffer the indignity of a smear of on a Reubens can render me green on your pristine lycra. 12/20 useless for the afternoon. As I It may not be the latest food brood over the sandwich that never concept — a simple coffee, implicity is something I was, a roast beef salad with sandwich and a good cake spot — often crave but find is horseradish is capable of rescuing but these are the places that all too Azahara shiraz 2013 ($15) seldom delivered. Read a me from my afternoon food sulk. often fall down with lack of care A beautifully made red wine displaying bright plummy Smenu in the smallest of Firm ciabatta, generous slices of and thought. Lycra optional. fruit with a little vanillin oak. It has a silky smooth palate cafes and it’ll tell you the with a fine-grained tannin and fine oak influence provenance of everything from the creating the perfect structure for a wine of this body. bread to the bean. A humble Medium-bodied and ideal for current drinking. Great sandwich, dissected in prose before with tapas. it’s even made it to the plate. Score: 90/100 Sometimes I just want the bare minimum, with no menu clutter, trusting that the basics of a roast-beef sandwich are known and don’t need to be laid out in detail. I’ve found simplicity, tucked into the corner of Wembley Cycles on Cambridge Street. Here, in the cathedral of the lycra-clad swarms, Chapel Hill McLaren Vale Parson’s Nose shiraz 2013 you’ll find Workshop Espresso. ($16) Breakfast and lunch served to eat Here is value plus. Juicy, ripe fruit but it’s not overdone. in or take away. What could be Spicy plum aromas with a little vanillin oak influence. simpler? Grainy, dusty tannins and a little fine oak influence add On any given weekend, visit to the feel in the mouth. Excellent wine for the short many a coffee shop and you’ll term while it retains some of those primary characters. know from the line of shiny road Score: 90/100 racers that the black stuff fuels the pelotons of Perth, so coffee needs to meet muster. Here it is from 5 Senses, served by a barista who seemingly knows his regulars and makes those who are not feel no less welcome. Breakfast seems to be grab-and- go for most but we choose the wooden window seat to take in the Coriole McLaren Vale Redstone cabernet sauvignon one-page menu. At $6.50 the ham 2012 ($20) and cheese croissant satisfies both Displays some distinctive regional gravelly, loamy earthy characters on the nose with Check out the West Weekend magazine some light leaf and ironstone for reviews by Rob Broadfield. influence. The palate is medium weight with grainy tannins and understated oak influence. Has BROWN HILL a tight thread of oak and tannin holding the fruit to a focused margaret river long finish. Nice wine. Superb Rich Reds... Score: 89/100 Outstanding Value Coriole McLaren Vale Redstone Handpicked, Estate Grown & Bottled shiraz 2012 ($20) SMALL PRODUCER OF THE YEAR IT’S OUR WORLD AND WE NEED TO This is a neatly crafted fleshy Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2010 KNOW WHAT IS HAPPENING shiraz displaying plenty of Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2009 supple, middle-palate fruit 2009 PERSEVERANCE intensity with a healthy, Cabernet Merlot well-weighted oak influence 96 Points, Ray Jordan supporting the fine ripe tannins. 2010 BILL BAILEY If world news, fashion, sport, An elegant and stylish wine for Shiraz Cabernet information and entertainment are this price, which is great value. 95 Points, Ray Jordan Ideal as an all-purpose food important to you, wine. CELLAR DOOR OPEN 10AM - 5PM DAILY get The West Australian home delivered. Cnr of Rosa Brook & Barrett Rd Rosa Brook W.A. 6285 Score: 90/100 Freecall : 1800 185 044 Fax: (08) 9757 4004 Freecall 1800 811855 WORKING TO MAKE WA A BETTER STATE www.brownhillestate.com.au FWG05X3DELVR THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH • THURSDAY, JUNE 5, 2014 12 TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE
Bib and Tucker co-owner and head chef SCOTT BRIDGER is off Grilled to the Manjimup festival. He talks to Fresh about all things food.
WHAT IS YOUR FIRST FOOD BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL? WHAT IS YOUR ONCE-A-YEAR MEMORY? With two kids and the restaurant FOOD INDULGENCE? My dad’s experimental cooking — we don’t have a lot of time to eat Greasy fish and chips by the ocean. vegemite shouldn’t be a seasoning. out but a memory that sticks is We eat very healthily at home and having the most incredible food at cook a lot of stuff from our garden WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE the food markets in Barcelona. — it’s a bit of a treat for us, sitting MEAL? Nothing was over 10 euros — they by the river with a beer or a glass of Fresh fish, eaten raw, with punchy did this tiny baby calamari that was wine. condiments. It’s not really centring half the size of your little finger, on the Japanese way of eating it, cooked whole with chickpeas and BUCKET-LIST RESTAURANT? like sashimi, but more eating it like chorizo — it was almost like a stew. Noma (Rene Redzepi). It is so the Italians do where it’s called You can spend hours walking modest whilst creating inspiring crudo. Crudo can be raw fish with around those markets, looking at food. really bold, fresh flavours to stuff and trying different things. accompany it. It might be some WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE grapefruit segments, fresh green WHAT WAS THE LAST BOTTLE ASPECTS OF WORKING WITH apple and horseradish, or OF AUSTRALIAN WINE YOU TRUFFLES? ground white pepper and jalapeno DRANK? West Australian truffles are among chillies. Singlefile’s cabernet merlot. the best in the world — the black truffle is just awesome. I love WHAT KITCHEN GADGET CAN WHAT WAS YOUR LAST OMG knowing they come from your YOU NOT LIVE WITHOUT? FOOD MOMENT? backyard and it’s great to be that My sharpening steel — I’ve had it for The phenomenal response to my close to such an amazing product eight years. food at the Taste of Perth Festival. and use it in a nice way. Plus dealing We sold a whopping 3200 pork with the colourful growers — BEST BURGER? sliders. One of my favourite dishes, they’re so passionate. Rockpool Bar and Grill. They’re the Fremantle octopus salad, was balanced and full of David also awarded a Best in Taste award WHAT ARE YOU MOST LOOKING Blackmore’s Wagyu. — it was a great feeling. FORWARD TO ABOUT THE TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE? BEST COCKTAIL WHAT MUSIC DO YOU LIKE TO Cooking with a great bunch of Moscow mule from Eau De Vie in EAT BY? chefs and using amazing Southern Sydney. It had yuzu curd in it. Chilled reggae. Forests region produce. Scott Bridger at Bib and Tucker in North Fremantle. Picture: Robert Duncan
Where to eat
★ South Indian Specialties ★ Cafes The Vic Kitchen Food & Wine Asian Fusion Restaurant
Mobile woodfired pizza for all occasions Drawing on its Italian heritage, L’Enoteca ●● Now OPEN Sat/Sun ●● We deliver* to you...call us! an Italian wine BAR and BISTRO dine in | t/away | home delivery offers patrons the chance to experience • some of the best Italian wines and for Lunch 11am - 2pm 310 Walcott St, Mt Lawley 9271 2603 $15 Pizza & Pasta cond apply* Breakfast✩Lunch✩Takeaway 575 Canning Hwy, Alfred Cove Tue-Fri: Lunch Tues: Dinner traditional family recipes. great selection of food✩perfect location Fully Lic | Dine-in |Takeaway | 9329 9099 BYO no corkage 7days 5-10pm 94 Aberdeen Street, NORTHBRIDGE • 9473 1762 www.fullmoonthai.com www.ilpadrino.com.au 9227 9065 7 Days 6:30am - 4.00pm Fantastic, funky & modern surrounds to 38 Moolyeen Rd, Mt Pleasant enhance your dining experience! Ph/Fax us for your catering...9315 3003 Dine in⎮Takeaway⎮fully Lic & BYO Tues-Fri 11-3pm Tues-Sun 5-10pm Phone 9355 0011 Thurs - Sat Lunch ⎮Tues - Sat Dinner 691 Albany Hwy, East Vic Park Fully Licensed Ph 9472 5881 249 Albany Highway Vic Park Delicious Aussie Style Meals ★ ★ Lunch Wed-Mon • Breakfast Sat & Sun New Moon a new name for Kids eat free Tues-Thurs nights* Perth's BEST Coffee Dinner Wed to Sat from 6pm til late... Hoi’s Kitchen Special Seniors Discount* as Voted by 94.5 & Channel 7 Yes we are now @ New Moon (Lunch Mon-Thu* Dinner Tue-Thu) Kids Bouncy Castle Sundays Come in and enjoy our great food in our 459 Nicholson Rd, CANNING VALE Where to eat Shop 12, 59 Arnisdale Rd, Duncraig new exciting location today *Conditions apply 9456 1362 Mon-Fri 8-4:30 | Sat 8-1:30 | 9448 3100 4752 West Swan Rd, West Swan Want to attract Ph 9274 7277 Closed Tuesday Dim Sim Day & Night What’s under the lid? www.willowpond.com.au Day: Tue - Sun...... 9.30am - 3.00pm more diners to your Night: Fri & Sat ...... 6.00pm - 9.30pm Restaurants 63 James St, Northbridge 9328 8720 restaurant? Be seen in where to eat advertising Where to eat feature every Want to attract more diners to A: Free ads when you book 4 with Thursday in FRESH. your restaurant? Be seen in where to eat advertising feature every Where to Eat ★ ★ Contact NOW Tues - Sun 5pm - 10pm ALFREDS KITCHEN Jennifer on 9482 2456 Thursday in FRESH. Want more? Ph 9482 2456 Sunday-Thursday 5pm-12pm ~Vintage Styled Tea Room~ Dine-in ★ Take away ★ Home Delivery or email jennifer.spanbroek@ homemade cakes | light meals | high tea Contact Jennifer on 9482 2456 [email protected] Friday & Saturday 5pm-2am wanews.com.au. Open Fri, Sat & Sun 10am - 4pm Halal ⎢ FunctionsCatered Cnr James & Meadow St, GUILDFORD
www.alfredskitchen.com.au 9377 1378 FWA06X1WTEC1 72 Bisdee Rd, MILLENDON 9296 6567 19/70 Langford Av, Langford FWA03X1WTEC3 www.valentisonthebrook.com.au www.buasiam.com.au 9356 6668 Every Wednesday is Buffet Night Hotham Valley Railway DUTCH BUBUTCHER Dine in or Takeaway Restaurant Train A Hidden Gem (No Lic BYO Alcohol) $18 Bring ad Every Saturday Night & Selected Fridays BreakfastBr Coffee Lunch Snacks Get Enjoy a 5-course meal in our Vintage Dining Car, meandering all you can Open 6 Days (closed Mon) Mon-Fri through the night forest - softly fl oodlit from the train. $79pp eat & drink Lunch Tues - Sun fr 11am 10% off 5am-2:30pm Dinner Tues - Thurs 4:30 - 9.30pm bill excl Wed Sat Buffet! Try our Signature Fri - Sun 4:30-10:30pm Croquettes 6am-12noon Ready hot or frozen fro Please book to secure your seat aalso available in most IIGA’s and Spudshed in 9472 3938 Enquiries and Bookings BOOK NOW FOR JaJandakot & Wanneroo. 315 Albany Highway, Vic Park XMAS IN JULY SSupplying Perth with
FU ZHONG FU #14W2457625-29/5 6278 1111 Specialising in group bookings a fi ne selection of 29 Adrian St, Welshpool CHINESE RESTAURANT www.hothamvalleyrailway.com.au ccontinentalo smallgoods. #14W2451460-22/5 #14W2466319-5/6 Ph 9361 3903
To advertise in this section please call Jennifer on 9482 2456 or email [email protected] where to eat BWA01X6WTEBO