Revision of Kenya Standards

KENYA STANDARD KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999 ICS 59.080.01; 61.020

CONFIRMED 2005

Code of Practice for inspection and acceptance criteria for used textile products (Mitumba) Part 1. Garments

No copying of this standard without KEBS permission except as permitted by copyright law REVISION OF KENYA STANDARDS

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ISBN 9966-23-426-8

KENYA STANDARD KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999 ICS 59.080.01; 61.020

CONFIRMED 2005

Code of Practice for inspection and acceptance criteria for used textile products (Mitumba) Part 1. Garments

KENYA BUREAU OF STANDARDS (KEBS)

Head Office: P.O. Box 54974, Nairobi-00200, Tel.: (+254 020) 605490, 602350, Fax: (+254 020) 604031 E-Mail: [email protected], Web:http://www.kebs.org

Coast Region Lake Region North Rift Region P.O. Box 99376, Mombasa-80100 P.O. Box 2949, Kisumu-40100 P.O. Box 2138, Nakuru-20100 Tel.: (+254 041) 229563, 230939/40 Tel.: (+254 057) 23549, 22396 Tel.: (+254 051) 210553, 210555 Fax: (+254 041) 229448 Fax: (+254 057) 21814 ©KEBS KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999

P R E F A C E

This Part 1 of this Kenya Standard has been prepared under the guidance of the National Standards Council.

Used garments have been in the Kenyan market for quite sometime now selling alongside the new garments. In the recent past the proportion of used imported garments sold in the Kenyan market has become quite significant, reducing the market share of new garments from the textile industries tremendously.

To ensure that the consumer gets quality textile goods in an even playground and to stop Kenya from becoming a dumping ground for worn out and worthless textile products, a Code of Practice for inspection and acceptance criteria has become necessary. This Part 1 of this Kenya Code of Practice lays down conformity criteria for used garments and requirements of the relevant Kenya Standards, including other requirements on microbiological examinations, packaging, sampling and acceptance. Appendix A specifies serious, major and minor defects for the purposes of inspection.

1 KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999 ©KEBS

KENYA STANDARD

CODE OF PRACTICE FOR INSPECTION AND ACCEPTANCE CRITERIA FOR USED TEXTILE PRODUCTS (MITUMBA)

PART 1. GARMENTS

1. SCOPE

This Part 1 of this Kenya Standard prescribes a code of practice for the inspection and acceptance criteria for used garments.

2. APPLICATION

This Part 1 of this Kenya Standard applies to used garments of all types, sizes and fibre composition. It also applies to used neckties, leather garments, headgear and belts.

3. DEFINITIONS

For the purpose of this Part 1 of this Kenya Standard the following definitions shall apply:

3.1 used garment — A garment which has been used previously and that is likely to be offered to a subsequent user.

3.2 defect — A departure of a quality characteristic that results in a textile product not complying with its intended normal usage requirements.

3.3 inspection — Activities such as measuring, examining, gauging one or more characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with specified requirements to determine conformity.

3.4 grade — An indicator of category or rank related to features or characteristics that cover different sets of needs for products or services intended for the same functional use.

3.5 consignment — Part or all of the goods sent to a person or a place for any purpose. All used garments received by whatever means through any port of entry or that are on transit shall be understood to be consignments.

3.6 lot — A collection of bales from which samples shall be drawn and inspected to determine conformance to the acceptable criteria.

3.7 bale — A collection of used garments packed together in suitable transparent material, and may or may not be bound with metallic or textile strips (see Figure 1).

3.8 nightwear — All types of garments meant for use as sleepwear such as pyjamas, night dresses, night gowns and patients’ hospital wear.

3.9 undergarments — all types of garments that are worn in close contact with the skin such as ladies briefs, gents briefs, brassieres, camisoles and vests.

4. PACKAGE AND PACKAGING

4.1 No package shall contain undergarments, socks, stockings and nightwear.

4.2 Each package shall have evidence that its contents have been properly fumigated.

4.3 Each consignment shall be accompanied by a health certificate from a recognized institution of the country of origin indicating whether the country has had any epidemic relating to Leprosy, Tuberculosis,

2 ©KEBS KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999

Cholera, Anthrax, Plague, Diphtheria, Tularemia or Pertussis and if there has been any radioactive disaster.

4.4 The garments in the consignment shall be clean and free from either domestic or personal hygiene dirt and soiling.

4.5 A bale shall have a gross mass of not more than 50 kilograms.

4.6 Each bale shall contain garments of the same type.

4.7 The bale covering shall be of suitable, transparent material such as polypropylene or polyethylene so as to protect the contents from any type of contamination or soiling.

5. MARKING

5.1 Garments

5.1.1 Each garment shall be properly marked with the size in accordance with the relevant Kenya Standard and care instructions according to KS 08-681*.

5.2 Bale — Each bale shall be marked with the following information:

(i) Mass of bale in kilograms.

(ii) Type of garments.

(iii) Grade (Super, First or Second. No grade shall be designated Gold, Diamond or Silver).

(iv) Supplier’s name and address.

(v) Consignee’s name and address.

(vi) Country of origin.

(vii) Size category (whether for adults or for children).

6. SAMPLING AND INSPECTION

6.1 Sampling

6.1.1 The number of bales shall be selected at random from each lot in accordance with the sampling plan given in 6.1.3.

6.1.2 Each bale in the sampled lot shall be opened and 10 (ten) garments shall be drawn at random for inspection and testing.

1* Standards referred to in this Kenya Standard are listed at the back of this standard.

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FIG. 1 — BALE

6.1.3 Sampling plan

Volume of Consignment (bales) Lot Size (bales)

1 to 3 1

4 to 9 2

10 to 27 3

28 to 81 4

82 to 243 7

244 to 729 10

Above 730 15

6.2 Inspection

6.2.1 The inspector shall use Appendix B to assess and certify whether the garments are new or used.

6.2.2 If the inspector’s assessment reveals that the garments are new or a mixture of used and new garments, the whole consignment shall be rejected as comprising used garments and all requirements for new garments shall apply, including 8.1 of this Part 1 of this Kenya Standard.

6.2.3 All samples shall be inspected for defects specified in Appendix A. If they are found to comply with Table 2, the samples shall then be tested in accordance with 7 and 8 of this Part 1 of this Kenya Standard.

4 ©KEBS KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999

7. COMPLIANCE WITH KENYA STANDARDS

7.1 Visual Examination

7.1.1 The garment samples shall be examined for visual defects listed in Appendix A to ascertain conformity with Table 2.

7.2 Physical Tests and Chemical Analysis

7.2.1 When physical tests and/or chemical analysis specified in Appendix A are carried out on the fabric of the used garment sample, the values obtained shall be not less than 90% of the values for new garments specified in the relevant Kenya Standard.

7.3 Workmanship (Garments’ Making up) — The used garment sample shall be examined for the specification requirements of the relevant Kenya Standard.

7.3.1 Shirts

7.3.1.1 Shirts shall comply with the requirements given in KS 08-5042) except 8 on packaging.

7.3.2 Men’s and Boy’s Jackets and Coats

7.3.2.1 Men’s and boy’s jackets and coats shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-5603), except 8 on packaging.

7.3.3 Ladies Cardigans

7.3.3.1 Ladies cardigans shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-5984), except 6 on packaging.

7.3.4 Women’s and Girls’ outerwear garments (Dresses, Skirts and Blouses)

7.3.4.1 Women’s and girls’ outerwear garments shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-5055), except 5 on packaging.

7.3.5 Sweaters

7.3.5.1 Sweaters shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-6296) except 8.2 on packaging.

7.3.6 Neckties

7.3.6.1 Neckties shall comply with the requirements of KS 08-11267): Part 1 except 3.5 on packaging.

7.3.7 Trousers

7.3.7.1 Trousers shall comply with all the requirements of KS 08-6878): Part 1.

7.3.8 Headgear

7.3.8.1 Headgear shall comply with all the requirements of KS 08-14029).

7.3.9 Belts

7.3.9.1 Belts shall comply with all the requirements of KS 08-…10).

8. MICROBIOLOGICAL EXAMINATION

8.1 Each garment shall comply with the microbiological requirements in Table 1 when tested in accordance with KS 08-…11), Kenya Standard Method for microbiological examination of textiles and leather products.

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TABLE 1 — MICROBIOLOGICAL LIMITS

SL. No. CHARACTERISTIC ACCEPTABLE LIMIT (count/gram) (i) Total plate count 300 (ii) Candida albicans Nil (iii) Streptococcus feaecalis 50 (iv) Trychophyton Sp. Nil (v) Microsporum Sp. Nil

9. CRITERIA FOR ACCEPTANCE

9.1 The consignment shall be declared as acceptable if it complies with the following requirements.

9.1.1 The consignment shall be accompanied by a fumigation certificate as per 4.2.

9.1.2 The consignment shall comply with 4.1.

9.1.3 The mass of the bale shall be as per 4.5.

9.1.4 The consignment shall be accompanied by a health certificate as per 4.3.

9.1.5 Certification of being used garments as per 6.2.1.

9.1.6 The samples shall comply with Table 2.

9.1.7 The samples shall comply with the relevant Kenya Standards in accordance 7.

9.1.8 The samples shall comply with the microbiological requirements as per 8.

TABLE 2 — PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF DEFECTIVES

PERMISSIBLE NUMBER OF DEFECTIVES

SAMPLE NUMBER OF Physically Chemical CONSIGNMENT LOT SIZE SAMPLES Defectives with Visually Tested Analysis (NUMBER OF (BALES) (GARMENTS) Observed Defects BALES) Serious Major Minor

1 to 3 1 10 Nil 1 2 Nil Nil

4 to 9 2 20 1 2 3 Nil Nil

10 to 27 3 30 2 3 4 Nil Nil

28 to 81 4 40 2 4 5 1 Nil

82 to 243 7 70 3 5 7 2 1

244 to 729 10 100 5 7 10 3 2

Above 730 15 150 7 8 15 4 3

A P P E N D I X A DEFECTS

VISUALLY EXAMINED OTHER PHYSICAL CLASSIFICATION DEFECT12) DEFECT CHEMICAL ANALYSIS Serious Holes Breaking Strength13) Blend Composition20) Tear Tear Strength14) Colour Fastness to: Ladder Stretch Recovery - laundering21) Stain Shrinkage15) - washing22) Missing Component Abrasion16) - Drycleaning23) No Care Label Pilling17) - Weathering24) No Size Designation Crease Recovery18) - Light25) Abrasion Mark Mass/Unit Area19) - Rubbing26) Burns Bursting Strength - Bleaching27) Broken Yarn - Perspiration28) Blot - Hot Pressing29) Colour Smear - pH Value30) Crease Streak - Chlorinated Water31) Misregister Spirality Bursting Open Seams Fading Open Folds Major Neppiness Odour Stain Terry off Terry-on-Plain Under-raising Water Mark Reppiness Weft Crackiness Wrong Yarn Warp/Weft Bow Skewness Pilling Shading Finger Marks Bad Odour Mottled Appearance Strippiness Dropped Stitch Minor Gout Slub Warp/Weft Bar Double Yarn Thick Place Misdraw Reediness Reed Mark Coloured Flecks Start/Stop Mark Needle Line Straying End Bruise

A P P E N D I X B

INDICATORS OF NEW GARMENTS

Garments shall be considered new on the basis of the following characteristics:

B1. Texture: Stiffness, feel, handle, fabric texture.

B2. Colour: Shade uniformity or sharpness of prints.

B3. Design: Patterns, alignment of components.

B4. Appearance: Lustre, tailor's indicators of newness (closed pockets, tags, etc.)

B5. Odour: Odour peculiar to new garments.

Kenya Standards Referred to in this Standard:

KS 08-68 Textile care labelling code (First Revision).1) 1 KS 08-504 Specification for men’s and boys’ shirts, Part 1. Making up Requirements.2)

KS 08-560 Specification for boys’ and men’s jackets and coats, Part 1. Making-up requirements for unlined jackets for Men and boys3).

KS 08-598 Specification for ladies’ cardigans 4).

KS 08-505 Specification for women’s and girls outer-wear garments (First Revision ) 5).

KS 08-629 Specification for sweaters 6).

KS 08-1126 Specification for neckties, Part 1: Neckties made from woven fabrics 7).

KS 08-687 Specification for men’s uniforms 8), Part 1: Uniform trousers. Part 2: Uniform coats.

KS 08-1402 Specification for size designation for headwear 9).

KS 08-… Specification for belts (under preparation) 10).

KS 08-… Methods for microbiological examination of textiles and leather products (under preparation)11).

KS 08-207 Glossary of terms for defects in fabrics Part 1. Woven fabrics (First Revision). Part 2. Knitted fabrics.

KS 08-119 Method for determination of breaking load and elongation (Strip method) of woven fabrics13).

KS 08-437 Method for determination of tear resistance of woven fabrics by falling pendulum (Elmendorf) apparatus 14).

KS 08-66 Dimensional changes of fabrics cold water immersion15).

KS 08-115 Methods for determination of resistance to abrasion of fabrics16).

KS 08-438 Methods for determination of pilling resistance of fabrics (Brush Pilling Tester) 17).

KS 08-269 Method for determination of crease recovery of fabrics 18).

KS 08-120 Method for determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area of woven or knitted fabrics 19).

KS 08-127 Methods for the quantitative chemical analysis of binary fibre mixtures 20).

KS 08-888 Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to domestic and commercial laundering 21).

KS 08-123 Methods for determination of colour fatness of textile materials to washing 22).

KS 08-122 Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to dry cleaning 23).

KS 08-263 Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to weathering, Part 2. xenon arc lamp 24). 9 KS 08-1532: PART 1: 1999 ©KEBS

KS 08-359 Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to artificial light: Xenon arc fading test (First Revision) 25).

KS 08-266 Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to rubbing: Inorganic solvents 26).

KS 08-215 Methods for determination of colourfastness of textile materials to bleaching 27).

KS 08-129 Methods for determination of colourfastness of textile materials to perspiration 28).

KS 08-130 Methods for determination of textile materials to hot pressing 29).

KS 08-360 Determination of pH of values of aqueous extracts of textile materials 30).

KS 08-440 Determination of colourfastness of textile materials to chlorinated water (Swimming bath water) 31).