All the Maps Below Are IGN Maps, 1:25 000

RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

INCLUDEPICTURE LEADER’S WALKING BRIEF "cid:[email protected]" \* ROUTE ST JACQUES MERGEFORMATINET Tour Code: Grade: Revised:

All the maps below are IGN maps, 1:25 000

1. 2735 E Le Puy-en-Velay 2. 2736 E Solignac-sur-Loire, Cayres 3. 2736 O Monistrol d'Allier 4. 2636 E Saugues 5. 2637 E St Amans 6. 2637 O St Chély d'Apcher 7. 2537 OT Nasbinals 8. 2538 OT Ste Eulalie d'Olt 9. 2438 E Espalion 10. 2438 O Estaing 11. 2338 E Marcillac-Vallon, Conques

BOOKS  The Way of St James A Cicerone guide by Alison Raju.  Sentier de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle (Topo-guide GR 65; in French only).

TOWN PLANS, MAPS AND LEAFLETS (available from local Tourist Offices, who usually have large supplies, enough to give one copy to each client).

 Plan du Puy-en-Velay (given by Hotel Bristol on arrival)  Le Puy-en-Velay Historical Visit (T.O in Le Puy)  Cathedral of Notre-Dame du Puy (T.O. in Le Puy )  Fortress of Polignac and also Forteresse de Polignac (in Polignac)  Carte Touristique de l’Aubrac (La Maison de l’Aubrac)  Saint-Côme-d’Olt and “Les Clochers Tors d’Europe” leaflets (T.O. in Saint-Côme-d’Olt)  Espalion (T.O. in Espalion)  Saint-Pierre de Bessuéjuls (leaflet for sale in the church).  Estaing (T.O. in Estaing)  Conques Step by Step Through the History of Conques (T.O. in Conques)  Saint-Foix’s Treasure of Conques (T.O. in Conques)  Step by Step Through the Forest of Capitals (given when buying ticket for “Son et Lumières” evening concert in the Abbey church, €6 September 2017)

DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE ABOVE FROM THE MAP PACK

© Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 1 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 1 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

Note about group cohesion on the Chemin St Jacques

Virtually the entire route is on the GR65 and is very well waymarked. Because the navigation is so easy some clients are more likely to confidently walk ahead or to lag behind, but there is a risk of taking the wrong route for the following reasons:  The route is subject to changes and old waymarks are not always erased  There are ‘variantes’ which can readily lead the walker in the wrong (alternative) direction  In some places the GR65 briefly combines with and then departs from other GR routes, all with the same waymarking. By walking far ahead clients may also miss coffee/drinks stops and nuggets of background information given by the leader.

GRs or Sentiers de Grande Randonnée are long distance footpaths managed by the FFRP (Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre).

The route of GR65 was created in 1970. It starts in Geneva, Switzerland, and continues through France to Le Puy-en-Velay where it joins the Via Podiensis, one of the four historical Ways of St James in France (the other routes start from Paris, Vézelay and Arles – see map on Place du Plot). Three converge in Ostabat (near St Jean-Pied–de-Port) before crossing the Pyrénées. The route starting from Arles converges with the “Camino Francés” in Puente la Reina in northern Spain.

From Le Puy (“départment” of Haute Loire), the Via Podiensis/GR65 goes to Nasbinals (Lozère), Conques (Aveyron), Figeac (Lot), Moissac (Tarn-et-Garonne) and finally to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in the Pyrenean foothills. The total distance is over 1000 kilometres (Geneva to Le Puy, 350 kms, Le Puy to St-Jean-Pied-de- Port, 705kms); our route is a mere 205.

The Way of St James statistics

The following statistics are for 2015 and/or 2016 and based on the number of pilgrims obtaining the Compostella in Santiago (a group like ours would not count in the statistics). You could finish each briefing with a “Statistic of the Day”.

 The pilgrimage has attracted an increasing number of pilgrims in the last 40 years. In 1992, there were about 10,000. In 2016, there were 278,232.  55% of pilgrims are male, 45% female.  Most pilgrims travel on foot (90%); 9.5% travel by bike and less than 0.5% by horse. A tiny minority do it in a wheelchair.  38% of pilgrims follow the Way of St James for religious reasons. 54% do it for a “spiritual” reason. 8% see it as a good hike, a sporting challenge or a cultural experience.  65% of pilgrims follow the Camino Francés, 16% follow the Camino Portugués, 6% follow the Camino del Norte.  Only 1.36% of pilgrims start in Le Puy (around 3,500 people). Most start from Spanish towns that are much closer to Santiago. In 2015, two people had started from Jerusalem.  Most pilgrims are Spanish (46%). 8.4% are Italian, 7.1% are German, 5.2% are American, 3.8% are French and 2% British.

 August is the busiest month with around 55,000 pilgrims arriving in Santiago (nearly 2,000 per day). July, June, September and May are also busy months. The quietest month is January with only around 1,200 pilgrims obtaining the Compostella.

A Potted History of the Pilgrimage

The history of the pilgrimage is well documented and every guidebook will give you a more or less detailed account. The bullet points below make it easier to remember salient points which the clients are likely to be interested in. You could deliver it in instalments.

 The early history of the pilgrimage is a mix of facts and legends. The interesting thing about the legends, other than their entertainment value, is the agenda of those who propagated them.

 Tradition has it that St James, one of the 12 Apostles, travelled to Spain after the crucifixion in order to spread the gospel. When he returned to Jerusalem after seven years he was promptly beheaded by King Herod Agrippa. James’ followers decided to take his body (with or minus the head, which according to some legends was retrieved later) to Spain. Guided by angels, their voyage took less than a week, quite a feat given that they were in a stone boat with no crew or sails. St James’ body was buried not far from the coast and forgotten for 750 years.

 Around 815, a hermit called Pelayo had a vision of a bright star shining over a spot in a forest. He went to investigate and discovered a Roman-era tomb containing St James’ remains. The matter was reported to the local bishop, who had a church built on the site of the tomb. The shrine grew in importance and around this shrine, the city of Santiago de Compostela developped. According to some, the name Compostella comes from the Latin “campus stellae”, the field of stars. Other scholars say it could also derive from a Latin word for cemetery.

 Fabricated or not, the story of the discovery of the tomb came at the right moment. In the preceding century, the Moors had invaded Spain and gained control over the Iberian Peninsula, except for the north westerly part. Their faith and inspiration came from the Prophet Muhammad, who had died only a few decades earlier, in 632. A bone from the Prophet was buried in La Mesquita, the big mosque in Cordoba. Catholic Spain badly needed a champion and St James fitted the bill. Within decades, the Saint had appeared on battlefields, reinventing himself as Santiago Matamoros (St James the Moor killer). The fisherman-evangelist had become a knight on horseback who dispatched large numbers of Moors with his miraculous sword.

 Meanwhile, Santiago de Compostella attracted increasingly large numbers of pilgrims, more than half a million per year in the 11th and 12th century. Monuments, churches, bridges, hospitals, monasteries and towns grew along the network of roads leading to Santiago. The way to Santiago was hard but for a lot of pilgrims it was a lot easier than Jerusalem or Rome and the rewards (such as a guaranteed remission of half their time in Purgatory) were just as good. Some pilgrims went to Santiago to seek a cure for illness or offer thanksgiving but the church also accepted proxy pilgrims, people who undertook the journey for someone else (or posthumous pilgrimages where a dying person left money for a pilgrimage made on their behalf to ensure their place in heaven). Inevitably, there were professional pilgrims paid by wealthy stay-at- home pilgrims.

 In the 12th century, a French monk called Aymeric Picaud wrote the Codex Calixtinus, sometimes called the first pilgrims’ guidebook. The last of its five books describes the four French routes of the © Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 3 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 3 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

pilgrimage. The original copy is in the Cathedral in Santiago (it was stolen in 2012 by a cathedral employee who had also stolen €2.4 million from charity boxes. The manuscript was found a year later and the thief was sentenced to 10 years in prison).

 Around the end of the 14th c the popularity of the pilgrimage started to decline for a variety of reasons. The Hundred Years War made travelling unsafe; the cult of relics became increasingly unpopular and was rejected by Reformists such as Martin Luther; people along the route got irritated by the number of false pilgrims who would try to obtain food or money. In the 16 th century the relics were removed from the Cathedral by the Archbishop, who feared that Francis Drake, who had sacked the nearby port of La Coruňa, was going to steal them. The bones were so well hidden that they got lost for 300 years. After the French revolution and the Napoleonic campaigns in Spain, numbers dwindled even further. In 1867, only 40 pilgrims made it to Compostella.

 What made the pilgrimage popular again? In 1879, during some renovation works in the Cathedral in Santiago, St James’ relics were re-discovered under the floor of the Cathedral and this sparked some interest, mostly among academics and scholars. The revival was slow mainly because of the two World Wars and the Civil War in Spain. In 1951, the Codex Calixtinus was translated from Latin to Spanish. “Camino” interest groups were formed in Spain and France. In 1980, a Spanish priest walked all the way from the French/Spanish border to Santiago painting the famous yellow arrows with left over paint he’d begged from local Highway Authorities. Pope John Paul II went to Santiago in 1982. Books were written, films were made and word of mouth did the rest.

TRANSFER AND LE PUY

 Lyon (Aéroport Lyon St-Exupéry) to Le Puy (Hotel Bristol) transfer time 2hrs approx with one comfort stop at motorway station.  Hotel Bristol, close to City Centre  Tourist Office at Place du Clauzel (see Centre Facts for opening times)

AFTERNOON

Independent lunch on Place du Plot.

Limited time for leader to explore and visit Tourist Office to obtain brochures etc., for use on afternoon of Day 2 after return from morning walk to Polignac.

At some point in the afternoon, the leader can go to the Cathedral with the clients who are interested in having the Pilgrim’s Passport or “Credential” (FF1). This saves time on Day 2, when you visit the Cathedral as part of the SS tour. The Credential can be obtained from the sacristy (far R side of the Cathedral. €5.00, clients need to go in person, no ID needed).

FF1: In the Middle Ages the Credential was the document given to pilgrims as a safeguard. Today the pilgrim's passport is a document that identifies you as a pilgrim and provides proof that you have walked, cycled or ridden on horseback the required distance (at least the last 100 km on foot or the last 200 km by bicycle/horse) to gain the Compostela (the certificate that testifies that you have completed the Camino de Santiago). In Spain (more so than in France), the credential also gives you access to cheap hostels. The credencial is a long piece of card, folded over a number of times to produce a mini booklet. At the pilgrim's office in the sacristy, you will receive your first stamp and after that you collect stamps along the way. They can be obtained from hotels or hostels, shops, Tourist Offices, bars, cafés, churches, shops, etc. A diligent Ramblers “pilgrim” may collect as many as 40 between Le Puy and Conques. In French, ask for “le tampon”.

POLIGNAC (morning walk)

A pleasant circular walk to visit a ruined fortress. There are good views all round and a café in Polignac. The church of St Martin, opposite the café, is worth a short visit. Start the walk at 08.30 so that you can be back in Le Puy around 13.30 for lunch. Disperse on Place du Plot for independent lunch and regroup at Tourist Office for afternoon sightseeing tour.

Start of walk: Hotel Bristol, Le Puy End of Walk: Place du Plot, Le Puy Distance: 10.3 km Ascent/Descent & 150m ascent and descent. Maximum altitude: Max alt:806m Walking Time: 2 ¾ hrs Transport & Cost: Admission to Fortress: €5 individual, cash only, group rate €3.50 (L free) in September 2017 Maps & Books: IGN 2735 E “Le Puy-en-Velay” and “Le Puy-en-Velay » town plan Route: Roads and footpaths NNW general direction Terrain & Hazards: Not demanding, a few short steep slopes Picnic / food / drinks: Café/Bar in Polignac (Auberge du Donjon), bring snack if required GPS Track: No Seasonal Strong walking shoes but boots always preferred considerations:

From Hotel Bristol go to Place du Plot, then L along Rue Pannesac to main road, Boulevard Carnot. Turn R downhill. At bottom, bear L signed Clermont Ferrand, Aurillac. Pass St Laurent Church and cross river bridge. This is a good photo stop (15 mins, 1.40 km).

Just past Emile Roux Hospital, follow main road (RN 102) uphill, bending L (the road on R by Ave de Mondon sign is the return route). 110m further on, opposite house No. 5, turn R uphill. Ascend to junction with a priority road by No. 20 on R. Go ahead, then fork L signed to La Malouteyre. Just past entrance pillars of No. 18 on R, fork R, Route du Mont Denise. Just beyond the crosses, at the back of a small car park, go R over crest and continue ahead down track with Polignac ahead. Good photo stop at corner when Fortress comes into full view (40 mins, 3.20 km).

In ten minutes, pass through tunnel under main road and keep ahead, ignoring R. At houses at start of surfacing, keep ahead. At T junction go L along rue du Midi. 125m beyond (pt721 on map), turn R then L up rue des Ecoles into Polignac (1hr10 mins, 5 km).

Just before the church, fork R uphill by drinking water spout. Drinks at Auberge du Donjon. Tickets for Fortress are bought opposite, up steps L of La Poste (get leaflets for the clients). Allow at least one hour. Public WC in yard of Mairie and portaloos at Fortress.

The return journey: from Auberge, descend steps on R to road, and turn R downhill 110°. Pass Pharmacie. 50m beyond, turn L down Chemin sous Mazel. Cross main road and go up C20. 5mins later, fork R at sign Tressac. At end of stepped wall (G.R. 05687 49911) turn R. Descend to D136 road. Ascend lane opposite. After 140m, fork R up rough track. Keep ahead, ignoring R fork around top of field. Ascend narrow path to join road at crest and turn left. At junction, descend Chemin de la Boriette (6t 20% signs). Inside 100m, go through wood door in wall by map board. Descend charming woodland path. At foot, go R, then half L at

next junction. After 10m at the next junction go ahead down “No Entry Sauf Riverains” to main road. Turn L retracing outward route to centre (2 ¾ hrs, 10.3km).

Sightseeing in Le Puy (afternoon tour): Follow the green “standard tour” 2hr route shown on back of booklet “Le Puy en Velay Historical Visit”, obtainable free in English from Tourist Office in Place du Clauzel (FF1). Extend the route by climbing the “Rocher” (268 steps) and visiting the lovely Chapelle St Michel (group rate €3, L free).

FF1: What does the name Le Puy-en-Velay mean? “Puy” is derived from the Latin “podium”, meaning hill or height. Velay is a historical area which ceased to exist after the revolution of 1789, when France was divided into “départements” (very similar to today’s départements). Our walk from Le Puy to Conques crosses three of metropolitan France’s 97 départements: Haute-Loire, Lozère and Aveyron.

LE PUY TO ST PRIVAT D’ALLIER

Make sure everybody has left their luggage in the hotel foyer by 8 am. Stick to this time for the whole tour as you can never know in advance when the luggage will be picked up, it varies from day to day. If a client brings their bags down too late and all the bags have already been picked up, the Transbagage man will not come back. The client will then have to use the services of la Malle Postale (see Centre Facts).

Strongly recommend the clients attend Pilgrim Mass at Cathedral at 7 am. All denominations (incl. atheist) – tremendous feeling of amitié with other walkers whom you see throughout on the chemin. Unfortunately,the Pilgrim Mass rather clashes with breakfast, it’s pretty much one or the other.

Clients not wanting to join at Cathedral, meet at official start point (under sign on wall) in Place du Plot at 8.45, having bought picnic supplies.

Today’s walk is quite long but the terrain is not difficult. The hardest bit is climbing out of Le Puy (long ascent but not too steep). The area we will be crossing is called the Margeride, a land of granite and round topped mountains dotted with huge farmhouses.

Start of walk: Hotel Bristol, Le Puy en Velay End of Walk: La Vieille Auberge, St Privat d’Allier Distance: 23.5km (14.7 miles) Ascent/Descent & 700m ascent, 350m descent Maximum altitude: Max alt: 1212m Walking Time: 5 to 6hrs Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: Le Puy town plan + IGN 2735 E “Le Puy-en-Velay” + IGN 2736 E “Solignac” + IGN 2736 O “Monistrol d’Allier. Route: St Christophe, Ramourouscle, Montbonnet Terrain & Hazards: Good paths, steep descent at end of walk Picnic / food / drinks: Picnic. Morning coffee stop in St Christophe and afternoon stop in Montbonnet GPS Track: 3 ST PRIVAT Seasonal Final 2km through woods can be slippery if wet considerations:

GR65 officially starts at Place du Plot. If starting on a Saturday, allow time here for clients to buy fresh fruit, cheese, etc at the weekly market. Proceed up Rue St Jacques. Cross Blvd St Louis, then up Rue Faubourg des Capucins. On reaching T-junction at top of Rue des Capucins, turn R onto Rue de Compostelle. Notice the white and red GR route waymarks. Follow the road around to the L, waymark on telegraph pole. At a crossroads in front of a radio mast continue on along main road. Immediately after the Fontanille factory a track leads off to the L and GR65 departs from the metalled road here. GR65 is very well signposted from here and signs easy to follow. At the far side of Le Croustet hill the dirt track meets a road (D589). Cross the road and continue on the track on the far side. When you reach a crossroads of tracks, turn L and get back to the D589 on the edge of La Roche. Cross the road and continue ahead. The track then bears R behind the village (1hr 10 mins, 5.5km).

Continue on the GR. The route is well waymarked and easy to follow in conjunction with GR65 Topo Guide and 1:25000 maps. Morning stop at St Christophe where there is a choice of cafés (all closed in Sept 2017,

except Café Le Soleil, a bit grubby) and a drinking water tap behind the phone box beside the Mairie. Also new public WC on left, just before GR65 turns right out of village (1hr 50 mins, 8 km).

Continue on the GR. Good lunch spot in the large meadow immediately before Lic Farm (GR05642 49817) – large flat stones and shade, or by the Cross in Ramourouscle (stone wall, bench but a bit run down) (FF1) (3hrs, 14.5 km).

Continue to follow the waymarks towards afternoon stop at Le Grand Duc café at entrance to Montbonnet (closed Sept 2017). Alternatively, try Café St Jacques 500m further on, where the chemin leaves the D589 (3 ½ hrs, 16.9 km).

Continue to St Privat d’Allier. Just before the village of Le Chier, the track crosses the D589 again. Proceed over the road into the hamlet. At the crossroads, go straight ahead keeping left of the Cross, direction of yellow marks. About 200m after the farm buildings, fork R downhill. After a further kilometre, look out for signpost to turn off to L down narrow track. The final section into St Privat is steep and rocky and care should be taken in wet weather. On entering the village of St Privat, follow the road as it winds to the centre, La Vieille Auberge is on the L. You may wish to visit the interesting small church above village (good views). La Vieille Auberge is one of the simpler hotels but dinner is good (5 hrs, 23.5 km).

FF1: the strange contraption by the cross in Ramourouscle was used to shoe horses. Apparently the English and the French use different methods.

ST PRIVAT D’ALLIER TO SAUGUES

Today is quite a hard day’s walking. There is a steep descent into Monistrol d’Allier (care must be taken) and a long steep ascent after Monistrol d’Allier. There are good distant views.

Start of walk: La Vieille Auberge, St Privat d’Allier End of Walk: Hotel la Terrasse, Saugues Distance: 19 km (11.7 miles) Ascent/Descent & 750m ascent, 650m descent. Maximum altitude: Max alt: 1106 m Walking Time: 6 hours Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2736 O “MONISTROL-D’ALLIER” and IGN 2636 E “SAUGUES” Route: Rochegude, Monistrol d’Allier, Roziers, Le Vernet, Rognac, Saugues Terrain & Hazards: Steep descent on muddy/rocky spur Picnic / food / drinks: Picnic. Morning coffee stop in Monistrol and afternoon stop in Rognac GPS Track: 4 SAUGUES Seasonal Take enough water in hot conditions. considerations:

Turn R leaving hotel and then up to L following PTT/Camping signs. Continue uphill past the Post Office and bear round to the L. Above village in front of three crosses, the track leaves the road to the L. At Rochegude, pause to enjoy the view from the Chapelle St Jacques which is just off the path to R (FF1). Continue to Monistrol d’Allier; descend into the village (some difficult steep slopes and can be very slippery in wet conditions) and on reaching the main road by hydro-electric plant, continue to R. Cross green metal bridge (FF2) to main part of village with welcoming bar and grocer, “Le Repos du Pélerin”, a good coffee stop (1 ¾ hrs, 6.8 km).

Follow waymarks out of Monistrol d’Allier proceeding west on D589, then turn R onto minor metal track which soon ascends steeply. After village of Escluzels, GR leads to D589 through woods, then zig zags steeply up to Montaure. Various good lunch stops in woods before Montaure, or on open slope on R just beyond buildings at GR05486 49801 (4hrs 15 mins, 11.3km).

Continue to follow waymarks proceeding generally south and west to Roziers, Le Vernet and Rognac. “Chez Jozy” in Rognac at GR 05456 49775 serves hot and cold drinks, home-made “Tarte aux Myrtilles” and excellent home-made ice cream. With a large group, call one day in advance to make sure there are enough cakes left (04 71 77 88 48 or 04 71 77 63 35 or 06 98 52 04 52) (5 hrs 20 mins, 15.6 km).

Continue on Chemin. Enter Saugues and follow waymarks to junction with main road (D589). Turn R, Hotel La Terrasse is on the right hand side, shortly after entering the town (FF3). (6 hrs, 19 km). Banks, Post Office and shops near hotel. Buy picnic for next day in the morning or beforehand from a bakery further along the main road (it is on tomorrow’s route so the clients could go in the morning without having to go back to the hotel).

FF1: Rochegude is a “stronghold” at the frontier between the Velay and the former province of Gévaudan. From the belvedere at the ancient Chapelle St Jacques you can see the river Allier and a railway line © Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 10 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 10 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

alongside it. This line, which was opened in 1870, connects Clermond-Ferrand to Nimes, 304 kilometers away. It took six years to build and involved the blood and sweat of more than 6,000 men. It is an extraordinary engineering feat, boasting 106 tunnels (blasted through granite) and 47 bridges and viaducts. Today it forms part of a longer cross country/non-TGV route linking Marseille to Paris, a distance of 863 kilometres. Leave Paris in the morning and arrive in Marseille in time for dinner!

FF2: The bridge over the Allier was built by Gustave Eiffel in 1887 (after the frame of the Statue of Liberty in New York and a year before the Tower in Paris).

FF3: Saugues is rich in old houses and dominated by “La Tour des Anglais”, a square keep dating back to the 14th century. The tower takes its name from an episode of The Hundred Years War (a series of conflicts opposing the English and the French over the succession to the French throne from 1337 to 1453) when a band of English mercenaries besieged the town.

It is in the mountains around and near Saugues that the famous beast of Gévaudan is said to have originated. For detailed information and lots of naff mannequins, you can go to “le Musée de la Bête” (in Saugues). The beast, a wolf-like creature of gigantic proportions, killed around 100 people between 1764 and 1767. The king, Louis XV, sent professional wolf hunters to the area. They killed a large wolf (which was stuffed and sent to Versailles) but the attacks continued. The attacks finally stopped in June 1767, when a local huntsman killed another large wolf. There are many theories about the true nature of the beast, including some pretty outlandish ones (lion, hyena, werewolf, human serial killer, tame wolves trained by bandits to kill lone travellers, etc).

SAUGUES TO LES FAUX

This is another long day but the easy terrain is not challenging. There is drinking water at Le Villeret, le Falzet and Fontaine St Roche. For clients who wish to walk less, it is possible to get a taxi from Saugues to La Clause or to Chazeaux. The hotel will organise this.

Start of walk: Hotel La Terrasse, Saugues End of Walk: L’Oustal de Parent, Les Faux Distance: 28.2km (17.5 miles) Ascent/Descent & Ascent 670m, descent 500m Maximum altitude: Max alt: 1329m Walking Time: 6 to 7 hrs Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2636 E and 2637 E Route: Saugues, la Clauze, le Villet, Chazeaux, les Faux Terrain & Hazards: Undulating, part open, part forested Picnic / food / drinks: Picnic. Morning stop at La Ferme des Fromages (04 71 74 44 79 - hot drinks and “coupétade” (FF1). Afternoon stop at Le Sauvage en Gévaudan (04 71 74 40 30). GPS Track: 5 LES FAUX Seasonal In very adverse conditions walk can be shortened by omitting 100p to Les considerations: Saugues and taking road D587

Turn R out of hotel to Casino Supermarket (closed Mondays). Head down Rue de la Margeride. At the fork by the petrol station keep R along the D589. Go ahead over the crossroads and about 100m after crossing the Seuge bridge, turn L; a wood pilgrim statue points the way. Follow waymarks and Topoguide to La Clauze (FF2). There is an excellent mid-morning stop at La Ferme des Fromages in Le Falzet. If not too busy, the farmer will show the group his interesting fromagerie.(1 ½ hours, 7.5 km).

Continue on the Chemin via le Villeret d’Apchier to picnic lunch either in Chazeaux or at Café du Pont in the centre of Chanaleilles beside an interesting church (this involves a ten minute detour). There is a gîte offering soup/sandwiches at Les Chazeaux (3 hours, 15 km).

Rejoin Chemin and continue. The route changed recently: it now goes directly due south via woods to Le Sauvage – follow waymarking. After le Sauvage (good afternoon stop at the gîte Le Sauvage en Gévaudan), turn L on D587 and soon leave the department of Haute-Loire for Lozère. Other possible afternoon stop at Chapelle St Roch (benches and small shelter) or Fontaine St Roch (shade and fresh drinking water) (4 ¾ hrs, 23km) (FF3).

After Chapelle St Roch, continue south west on tarmac approx 300m then turn L onto small path with familiar GR waymarks. Chemin reaches the D987 at crossroads, go ahead. After approx 1km reach a large square signboard proclaiming “L’Oustal de Parent” that directs you L to Les Faux – 900m (actually nearer 1200m despite the sign). At the sign turn L, leaving the GR65. On reaching tarmac road at a T junction, turn R, then hotel is 100m on R (6 hours, 28.2km).

Accommodation at L’Oustal de Parent is recent but not all rooms have en-suite facilities; some rooms do not even have a mirror, wardrobe or wash basin and share facilities across the hallway. No shops, but possible to buy provisions in St Auban at morning stop next day. © Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 12 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 12 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

FF1: Coupétade is baked French toast pudding traditionally made with prunes and raisins.

FF2: The tower curiously perched on a block of granite is the only vestige of a castle built during the second half of the 12th Century. It was besieged in 1362 to drive out pro-English mercenaries who had found shelter in the tower. Some sites say it is octagonal, others say heptagonal (one of only five heptagonal towers in France). Go and count.

FF3: A hospital for Pilgrims was founded on this deserted col in 1198. The hospital was entrusted to the Knights Templar and, after the order was suppressed at the beginning of the 14 th c, to the Hôtel-Dieu in Le Puy. The chapel, originally dedicated to St Jacques, was later dedicated to to St Roch, whose cult had become more popular.

Day 6 LES FAUX to AUMONT-AUBRAC

This is our last day in the Margeride and its gently undulating terrain. St Alban, where we stop for coffee and picnic shopping is rather sleepy and a little dull.

Start of walk: L’Oustal de Parent, Les Faux End of Walk: Hotel Prunières, Aumont-Aubrac Distance: 22km (14 miles) Ascent/Descent & Ascent 450m, descent 550m Maximum altitude: Max alt: 1137m Walking Time: 5 ½ hours Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2637 E “ST-AMANS”, 2637 O “ST-CHELY-D’APCHER” Route: Les Faux, St Alban, Les Estrets, Aumont-Aubrac Terrain & Hazards: Navigation: GR Tour de la Margeride joins/leaves GR65 Picnic / food / drinks: Picnic. Morning stop in St Alban, possible lunch stop at Les Estrets and afternoon stop in Bigose GPS Track: 6 AUMONT AUBRAC Seasonal considerations:

Do not go back to the GR the way you came. From the hotel go down to the road, turn R through the village. At the end of the village turn R along footpath (signposted “vers GR65” from this point to rejoin the road after 300m, turn R. After 250m turn R on path, to rejoin GR65. Follow the Chemin to St Alban, a suitable point for mid-morning coffee/shopping break (FF1). At the square by the church is a bar, boulangerie/charcuterie and fruit and vegetable shop, plus toilets (on left-hand side of Hotel de Ville.) There is a supermarket at the end of the main street about 70m after the GR turns R by the church. Suggest a 45min stop here to buy picnic/have coffee and re-group at the church square (1 ¼ hours, 6 km).

Cross the car park by the church, turn R behind the church, then L to the Hotel de Ville (toilets; Créanciales stamped in office on first floor). Turn L, joining busy main road (D987), turn R towards playing fields. About 75m after change of direction symbol turn R along track and up to cross on hill. Follow chemin towards Les Estrets. Picnic lunch near Les Estrets or lunch at the gîte Le Gévaudan (04 66 45 61 90). Picnics can be eaten (indoors or outdoors) provided a drink is bought (3 ¼ hours, 15 km). Note: Do not picnic beside the river before the small road bridge – this is private. It is possible to stop on the old road bridge at Le Pont d’Estrets as there is now no traffic. There is a possible lunch spot on the river bank: keep R at fork in Les Estrets past the drinking water, follow track beyond the gîte; picnic in the grass field with the small beach on the left. (The farmer does not appear to mind, but may have stock in the field from July onwards).

Rejoin Chemin, continue SW. There is a new gîte at Bigose, 30 mins after Les Estrets, that offers food, drinks, ice-cream. Here also picnics can be eaten provided a drink is bought. Open every day (closed Sept 2017). On reaching D7 at T junction, go ahead onto track opposite. Keep on this track until route converges briefly with D7. Bear R off D7 onto track by Elam building, continue to join D50 and go ahead into town (marked). At junction with D987, turn L to Hotel Prunières on L. (5 hours, 22km)

Banks and Post Office and a small supermarket next to hotel. Also a boulangerie near hotel which opens at 06.30hrs. The souvenir shop opposite the hotel has a good selection of Laguiole knives (FF2).

FF1: The castle in St Alban was originally built in the 11th c. Most of what we can see today dates back to the 18th c, when the castle was practically rebuilt. In the 19th c and the first half of the 20th c it was used as a psychiatric hospital.

FF2: Laguiole (officially pronounced lah-yol) is a small village in Aveyron, about 30kms west of Aumont- Aubrac. It is famous all over France for its sophisticated and elegant pocket knives, handcrafted in the village since 1829. The simplest models require 109 production steps, more elaborate models as many as 216 steps. The handles can be made of horn or a variety of woods, including precious exotic woods. The Laguioles are not cheap (you can buy a simple model for around £60 but they can cost as much as £400) and are mostly bought by collectors. For everyday picnics, the French prefer their trusty Opinel, made in Savoie (never a Swiss Army knife!).

AUMONT – AUBRAC TO NASBINALS

A very long walk which brings us to the Aubrac, a vast volcanic and granitic plateau that extends over an area of 1,500 km2. Here you will come across herds of magnificent Aubrac cows and shepherd's shelters called “burons” (FF1). Those wanting a shorter day could meet the group at Chez Régine (a café located at Les Quatre Chemins (Grid Ref 05152 49503). Drinking water at La Chaze (and loos), Lasbros, Rientort d’Aubrac.

Start of walk: Hotel Prunières, Aumont- Aubrac End of Walk: Hotel La Route d’Argent or Hotel La Randonnée in Nasbinals Distance: 27km (17 miles) Ascent/Descent & 147m ascent, 114m descent Maximum altitude: Max altitude: 1253m Walking Time: 6 ¾ hours Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2637 O “ST-CHELY-D’APCHER”, 2537 OT “NASBINALS” Route: La Chaze, Lasbros, Rieutort d’Aubrac, (taxi 04 66 32 52 80), Nasbinals Terrain & Hazards: Can occasionally be subject to flooding (new boardwalks in place Sept 2017). Picnic / food / drinks: Morning stop Chez Régine (04 66 42 83 36). Picnic (possible stop at La Ferme Auberge les Gentianes (04 66 32 52 77 or 06 73 02 70 15). Afternoon stop at La Ferme de Rosalie (04 66 32 55 14) in Montgros. GPS Track: 7 NASBINALS Seasonal Hardly any shade after Les Quatre Chemins considerations:

Leave hotel, turn L; follow D987 direction Nasbinals. Pass under railway bridge then turn L following road by side of railway line. At old stone building on R, turn R onto a track into the trees. Note interesting church at La Chaze de Peyre (FF2). Also pause at the Chapelle de Bastide at the junction with the D987. Follow Chemin to mid-morning stop at Chez Régine (a bit drab, grid ref 05152 49503 at Les Quatre Chemins) (2 hours, 10km).

Proceed west to briefly join D987 then turn L onto path climbing gradually to meet D73 at Ferme des Gentianes after approx 4km. Small picnic site on south side of GR65 on exit from Finieyrols with toilet, water tap (GR 05109 49478) and shade. In wet/cold weather good stop at Auberge des Gentianes, Fenieyrols where can eat your own picnic if you buy a drink or where you can also find reasonably priced food (soup etc). Alternatively at Roc des Loups 1.7km beyond if weather fine (but no shade) (3 hours, 16km).

Proceed SW on chemin to Rieutort d’Aubrac (FF3). It is possible for clients not wanting to walk further to phone for a taxi from Nasbinals at Rieutort d’Aubrac. Best to phone previous evening to warn that you may need them, at own discretion. Chemin continues on tarmac through open country (look out for pasque flowers – pulsatilla in the valley of the Riviere le Bès). At T junction D900, turn R and take bridge over River le Bès. After 200m approx, turn R on path to Montgros. Good mid-afternoon stop at La Maison de Rosalie in Montgros, a pleasant gîte/café with outside seating. “Tarte du Pélerin” a speciality! (5 hours, 24 km).

Proceed on chemin towards Nasbinals. On joining D900, turn R downhill past the cemetery. At crossroads, go ahead to church (spire visible) past the pharmacie. The Hotel Route d’Argent is behind the church. The evening meal is taken here, but the group may be sent to a different hotel. If it is La Randonnée, take the

road opposite the bar between Crédit Agricole and the “tabac”. It curves to the right then to the left out of the village. The hotel is just beyond La Rosée du Matin, about 500m from the village centre (6 hours, 27 km).

La Randonnée is clean and comfortable and has a washing line at the rear. However, receptions may be held next door which can be rather noisy.

FF1: As well as being a shelter, the buron was also the place where local cheese, Laguiole, was made. A good cow gave 550 litres of milk in the summer, enough to make around 50 kilos of cheese. A typical herd would have between 60 and 90 cows, so that a buron would produce between 3 and 4.5 tons of cheese per summer. Laguiole cheese is a key ingredient in “aligot”, a dish based on mashed potatoes, cheese and crème fraîche. Aligot is guaranteed to feature on the menu more than once in the coming days. There are very few working burons left these days and they have become something of a tourist attraction.

FF2: The nave of this church was altered in 1728, after a collapse caused the fall of the bell tower. At the north side a Gothic chapel built in 1522; a semi circular apse having modillions with the sculpted heads of men and animals.

FF3: Note the communal oven and cattle troughs of granite.

CIRCULAR WALK FROM NASBINALS (OPTION 1)

CASCADE DU DEROC (GR 055055 49346)

 Short walk over open landscape (superb flora in June)  Surprisingly good waterfall (33m high)  Yellow waymarks from Nasbinals to the Cascade

Start of walk: Hotel La Randonnée or La Route d’Argent End of Walk: Hotel La Randonnée or La Route d’Argent Distance: 8km (5 miles) round trip Ascent/Descent & 160m ascent and descent Maximum altitude: Walking Time: 2hrs 20mins Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2537 OT “NASBINALS” Route: Nasbinals, Cascade du Deroc, Montgros, Nasbinals Terrain & Hazards: Adequate footpaths, easy in dry conditions Picnic / food / drinks: Take picnic if required – Cafés at D52 and in Montgrousset GPS Track: Seasonal After rain multiple rivulets above the falls considerations:

Take the D900 in the direction of Marvejols, yesterday’s inbound route. After the cemetery, turn R along a track, which you follow for about 1km. By a stone building with a corrugated iron roof, take Left-hand hairpin. Turn R at the next track junction and follow the main track until you reach a T-junction by a few trees. Here, take the right-hand footpath between stone walls (waymarked yellow). Follow the main footpath, with views over the Lac des Salhiens on the right, until you reach the D52. (café here) (1hr, 3km).

Cross the D52 and carry straight on until you reach a stile. Go over the stile and then through another stile and walk ahead to reach the cliff edge, with views over the waterfall. To reach the bottom of the waterfall, turn R beside wire fencing, cross stream easily on stepping stones. After 70m, go easily through wire fencing and zigzag down (1hr20 mins, 3.6 km).

Return to top by the same path, go back through the stiles and then turn R to pass in front of a stone barn (marked “Le Deroc” on the IGN map). Carry on to a T-junction and turn R down a track. At bottom, double back L before green gates and duly ascend to main road (D900). By Auberge des Cascades (drinks) in the village of Montgrousset take lane to Montgros. At junction, turn L to return to Nasbinals along GR65 (yesterday’s route), or firstly turn R for alternative drinks stop at La Maison de Rosalie.

CIRCULAR WALK FROM NASBINALS (OPTION 2)

RECOULETTES (GR 05027 49483)

A longer walk through woods and open fields. Pleasant with good views and an off the beaten track feel.

Start of walk: Nasbinals End of Walk: Nasbinals Distance: 10km (6.2 miles) for the shorter version Ascent/Descent & Maximum altitude: Walking Time: 3hrs Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2537 OT “NASBINALS” Route: Circular walk to Recoulettes Terrain & Hazards: Mainly easy Picnic / food / drinks: Bring picnic if required – no cafés en route GPS Track: Seasonal No particular problems considerations:

If you are staying at La Route d’Argent, follow the instructions in the last paragraph of Day 7 to hotel La Randonnée (also signposted in the village). From Hotel La Randonnée, turn L and head North along minor road for 2.5km to junction with D12. Cross and go ahead to Recoulettes. In hamlet, curve R then turn L at cross following yellow/red waymark. After 250m, just before a cross by the road, turn L onto track and descend to river, but do not cross. Turn L through cattle fencing and ascend river valley. At track T-junction, step over wire fencing on boulders by wooden bridge, and cross river.

Go along track and fork L up to road passing rear of Le Rescos Bas Le Moulin sign. At road turn L, then fork L to La Cabre 0.5km. In hamlet, turn R at cross. At junction near top of wooded ascent, fork L along unsurfaced track following line of power posts. Cross stream on stones at R.

After descent out of woodland, double back L at junction, and soon cross bridge over stream. Follow track which becomes surfaced at next bridge. Approaching main D12, take obvious track to L of road and pass Equestrian Centre on R. Cross main road by Centre’s car park and ascend track ahead. At next road, turn L for 100m to Hotel La Randonnée.

This walk can be extended by continuing straight ahead to Le Bouchabès on the long ascent and passing the “cascade” (in fact, a virtually unnoticeable waterfall), continuing south east to point 1231 and east, then north to point 1176 where you join the shorter walk again. There is a good view of a nice old “buron”. This adds approximately 3km.

ALTERNATIVE SHORT WALKS

(a) To Notre Dame de la Sentinelle: GR 05026 49462. Turn R from Hotel La Randonnée and then immediately sharp R before a bungalow. Either take next L turn down to road and R to campsite or go ahead, bearing L to campsite. Follow track to L of campsite uphill through woods to statue, calvary and viewing table.

(b) Go L from the Hotel La Randonnée for about 1km, then L, following the blue waymarks to the campsite. Return as in (a) above.

Both of the above walks are easy, last 1-1.5hrs and are good for bird watching and flower lovers.

Day 9 NASBINALS TO ST CHÉLY D’AUBRAC

Today we leave the Aubrac plateau and can breathe a sigh of relief as we have successfully crossed the region described by Adalard as a “place of horror and vast solitude, rigorous cold, infested by wolves and bandits” (FF1). We should reach the village of Aubrac around 11.30. Give the clients 1 ½ hour for lunch and exploration. Today we enter our third and last department, the Aveyron.

Start of walk: Nasbinals End of Walk: Hotel Les Coudercous, St Chély D’Aubrac Distance: 16km (10 miles) or 18.9km including Gudette extn Ascent/Descent & Approx 200m ascent, approx 600m descent Maximum altitude: Alt max: 1427m at top of Puy de Gudette or 1368m on main walk Walking Time: 5hrs Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2537 OT “NASBINALS” and 2538 OT “STE EULALIE D’OLT” Route: Nasbinals, Aubrac, St Chély d’Aubrac Terrain & Hazards: Generally easy, but steep descent through woods at end. Picnic / food / drinks: Picnic or café/restaurant in Aubrac GPS Track: 9 ST CHELY Seasonal Final descent into Chély d’Aubrac can be muddy in wet conditions. Boots to considerations: be left on rack near hotel reception.

Leaving the centre of the village at Nasbinals, proceed west along the D987. At Le Coustat, after about 500m turn R and continue on the chemin in a south westerly direction. .

After Ginestouse Bas Buron, the path does not veer away from the trees to the L and there is a waymark on the last tree before the wall. Turn R along the wall to the corner near point 1321, then through the cattle gates to access the ascending track. You can either continue on the GR65 to Aubrac, or, with a strong group, include the Puy de Gudette extension, the highest point of the tour at 1427m. (1hr 10mins, 5.15km).

Puy de Gudette extension (35mins moving time): to climb to the top of Puy de Gudette and back adds about 2.93km (1.5 miles) to the distance and 100m to the total ascent. Allow about 1hr. Follow the GR65 below Ginestouse Haut Buron; after it turns from a westerly to a southerly direction, it passes through a small metal gate, bears slightly R under trees and crosses a stream and then a boggy area. On reaching a corner of a stone wall, just before a wooden cattle pen, walk 305° towards a fence (ignore signs of a track leading too far northward). Reach an electric fence with a liftable section (gloves useful) immediately before a barbed wire fence with a crude barbed-wire gate. Pass through the fences and turn R, climbing along the main shoulder towards two farm buildings (semblance of a footpath in some places). Aim just to the L of the two farm buildings, pass through three barbed wire gates and climb to the summit. Extensive views on a clear day, including the Cantal mountains to the north. Return to the GR 65 at the stone wall corner by the same route.

Continue on the Chemin to Aubrac, keeping an eye on your GPS and celebrating the highest point on the tour (after Puy de Gudette), 1368m. (2 ½ hrs, 11.3 km).

Although the village itself is very small (10 permanent inhabitants) Aubrac ((FF2) is a suitable place for a long lunch break. For lunch, two pleasant options are “La Maison de l’Aubrac”, a Visitor Centre with impressive views (open 9 am to 6:30 pm every day except Monday, shop, café, small exhibition centre) or

“Chez Germaine” where they serve soup and simple lunches as well as pieces of fruit tart cut from a huge creation about 24” in diameter (you can’t eat your picnic here, even if you buy a drink).

Leave Aubrac proceeding on D987 south west. Branch L just beyond point 1312 onto GR65 path. Follow waymarks to Belvezet. GR65 has now joined with GR de Pays du Tour des Monts d’Aubrac. Continue on chemin south westerly for steep descent to St Chély d’Aubrac. On reaching village, turn R along main road. Hotel Coudercous is on L. The shop opposite the hotel opens at 7.30 every day except Sunday and Monday. It is adequate (and in any case the only option) for picnics the following day.

FF1: Aubrac is the site of an Abbey and a monastic hospital allegedly founded by a Flemish nobleman, Adalard, in the 12th century. As is usually the case, it is difficult to distinguish between facts and legends (one legend has it that Adalard got lost on the Aubrac plateau and found shelter in a cave where he discovered the severed heads of dozens of pilgrims murdered by bandits. He resolved to build an abbey and hospital on that very spot if he survived the pilgrimage). What is certain is that the abbey in Aubrac was a site of major importance on the Via Podiensis. The church, the hospital and various buildings were protected by a wall with a west facing entrance, called “porte de la Miche” (a miche is a loaf of bread) where bread was distributed to the pilgrims (up to 5,000 loaves per day!). In bad weather, a bell was rung for two hours to guide the pilgrims lost on the plateau. The tower, yet another “Tour des Anglais”, was built in the 14th century and fell almost immediately into the hands of English or pro-English mercenaries. The monastery was partly destroyed at the time of the French Revolution. The tower has been renovated and is used as a gîte.

FF2: Just before Aubrac you will see a very large building on the R hand side of the GR. Built at the end of the 19th c, it was originally a sanatorium. For its time, the building was very modern: it had electricity, running water and toilets on every floor. Today it is used as a conference and holiday centre.

Day 10

ST CHÉLY d’AUBRAC to ESPALION

The chemin now follows the combined GR6 and GR65 routes. There is some climbing but much more descending as we go down to the River Lot. St Côme-d’Olt, one of “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”, deserves a good break. Allow at least 45 mins for exploration (and/or drinks). Following the GR65 to the viewpoint “La Vierge” adds a good hour to the walk and some steep ups and downs. Unless you have a reasonably strong group you may prefer to follow the low route along the Lot.

Start of walk: St Chély d’Aubrac End of Walk: Hotel de France, Espalion Distance: 22km (14 miles) Ascent/Descent & Ascent 290m, descent 790m Maximum altitude: Max alt: 925m Walking Time: 6 ½ hrs Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2538 OT “SAINTE-EULALIE-D’OLT” and 2438 E “ESPALION” Route: St Chély – L’Estrade – St Côme d’Olt, Espalion Terrain & Hazards: Good paths, some woodland Picnic / food / drinks: Picnic (in case “Chez Muriel” is closed). Cafés and shops in St Côme. GPS Track: 10 ESPALION Seasonal Long steep ascent out of the Lot Valley. Consider using the easier GR6 at considerations: river-level from pnt 351 @ GR0 4842 49282 04938 49374

Turn L out of the hotel, then L again in front of the Post Office to the square. Turn R into the square and then L around the school. Descend narrow winding street and cross river. At the graveyard, the route splits. The metalled road becomes GR6; GR65 turns R up a grassy track above the cemetery marked by a metal signpost. Reach D19 and turn R.

At Le Recours turn R off D19 and follow waymarks on the chemin, now combined GR6 and GR65. Drinking water available in L’Estrade. If you are lucky, you will also be able to buy a hot drink from an old man in a stone shelter (€1) (1hr10mins, 6.2km). After approx 3km proceeding SW on the Chemin, the most conspicuous waymarks now lead to the village of La Rozière which is on a “link” between the GR65 and GR6. Both GR routes lead into St Côme d’Olt. Both routes are satisfactory: study detail on map and make decision as to preferred course to navigate. Water point at La Roziere.

Excellent lunch can be enjoyed “Chez Muriel” at GR04867 49305 on a shady terrace with fine views and homemade food (05 65 44 14 77). If drinks purchased, own picnics are authorised (3 hrs, 15km)(FF1).

Entering St Côme at the D987/D557 junction (pnt 385) (FF2) follow the waymark WSW and go under the road (not up the steps) into the narrow street. At the top, go under the arch and L then R into the square by the church (FF3) to the left. Continue through the second arch into the main square: choice of cafés. There is a taxi firm in St Côme for clients who do not wish to walk further (ask at a café).

Turn R onto the metalled road which follows the River Lot, immediately after the bridge leading S out of St Côme d’Olt. On reaching pnt 351, either continue along the metalled road to Espalion or turn L and follow GR65 up steep river escarpment on footpaths to Espalion. Use map to navigate to viewpoint “La Vierge”, and then continue on paths to the remarkable Eglise de Perse (see Espalion leaflet for details). Follow © Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 23 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 23 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

roads into town, reaching park on south side of River Lot. Keep left in the park, then turn L down rue des Fossés on leaving the park. At the end of the road turn R onto rue de la Croix, then continue ahead when you merge with Avenue de Calmont (8 à Huit store on the left). Continue ahead towards Blvd Poulenc where you will see the Hotel de France on the opposite side of the road.

Espalion is a busy town with banks, post office and many shops. Some clients have swum in the river but this is strictly at the clients’ own risk. Refer to the leaflet for more information about Espalion.

FF1: On passing this restaurant in May, look out for Bee Orchids on the banks of the lanes.

FF2: Created in 1982, the “Association des Plus Beaux Villages de France” originally counted 66 villages. Today, there are 157 spread over 70 départements. To be officially recognised as one of the “Plus Beaux Villages”, a village must meet 27 objective criteria defined by the association and win over a panel of experts who meet twice a year to accept or reject new candidates. Aveyron is one of the départments with the most “Plus Beaux Villages” (ten). We will see three: St Côme d’Olt, Estaing and Conques.

FF3: The church is St Côme d’Olt is one of more than a hundred churches in Europe with a twisted spire (see leaflet). Although twisted spires are usually the result of a natural distortion of the wooden frame over the years, the people in St Côme d’Olt insist that their church spire was deliberately built like that, proving how capable the architect was.

Day 11

ESPALION - ESTAING

An easy day, but one long steep ascent/descent. You might consider a late start on this day (13.00, having had lunch) to allow time to visit the museum in Espalion or the Château de Calmont (this only works in May when the Château is open 10.00 to 18.00 closed Thursday; in September, the Château is only open 14.00 to 18.00 closed Thursday). Alternatively, leave at 8.30 and arrive in Estaing for lunch, with an optional walk in the afternoon. The Patronne aux Armes d’Estaing asks specifically that groups should not arrive before 3.30pm, especially on Sundays, as the staff are all busy with lunches and will not be available to welcome the group until later.

Start of walk: Hotel de France in Espalion End of Walk: Hotel Aux Armes d’Estaing Distance: 12.7km (8 miles) Ascent/Descent & 200m ascent and descent Maximum altitude: Max alt. 493m Walking Time: 3hrs Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2438 E “ESPALION” and 2438 O “ESTAING” Route: Espalion – St Pierre – Verrières – Estaing Terrain & Hazards: Riverine topography Picnic / food / drinks: Independent lunch in Espalion or Estaing. Drinks/cake stop in Verrières GPS Track: 11 ESTAING Seasonal The ascent from Mairie de Bessuéjouls is one of the steepest of the tour; considerations: track becomes slippery after rain. Walking poles useful.

Turn L out of the hotel and L again just before the bridge over the Lot. Follow waymarks to the church of St Pierre de Bessuéjouls (3.8kms, 45 mins). Allow 30 mins to visit (see leaflet for details). There is a bar 100m beyond the church, on roadside (closed May 2016 and September 2017).

Continue through village following waymarks to the Mairie and start a long ascent. After hamlet Le Briffoul, the chemin leaves a metalled service road to proceed in a northerly direction, a long descent to the arable lands by the River Lot. Good rest spot by the small church at Trédou (water point and benches). Continue to Verrières, a lovely medieval village with an interesting chapel up steps by Chateau, St-Amans d’Escoudournac – 17th c frescoes (GR 04747 4932). There is a small café at the entrance of the village, Au Chemin de l’Oustalou (2 ¼ hrs, 10.5 km).

Continue to T-junction, turn R on D100. Either follow level D100 to Estaing or waymarked path on GR65 which climbs over steep wooded spur to re-join D100 on approach to Estaing (FF1). Enter Estaing over road bridge: hotel is on north side of the River Lot facing this bridge.

Walks from Estaing

1. There is a 4km walk around the village, “Le Puech de l’Eglise”, waymarked from the street on L just before the church steps.

2. Estaing Panorama: from the hotel, cross bridge and take the GR6 beside the chapel (or less steeply but longer, take the road to the R of the chapel). Climb up to join the road, turn L and then around the hairpin ignoring the lane to Liauzi. At next bend, where best view is obtained, go down L © Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 25 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 25 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

leaving the GR6. Bear L at the entrance to Baldrigues and keep ahead at next junction, ignoring a road to L. Join D556 at La Plagne (pnt 353) and return to Estaing via Verrières.

3. La Coussane Valley (6 kms, asc/desc 120m, allow 2hrs, IGN 2438 O and 2438 E). Ask T.O. if the bridge over the Coussane has been repaired (if not, you have to retrace your steps at the collapsed bridge).

Turn L out of main hotel building and first L along D97 for 80m. Turn R up Rue du Château into Place de la Priousse. Beyond church steps, turn L down Rue du Pont and over bridge. Follow a quiet road passing alongside gardens. Go ahead at crossroads and continue to reach a trout fishery.

Stay on tarmac route at the fishery. Ignore the PR3 footpath on R (this is the return route). Cross bridge. Ignore PR1 footpath on L and take the ascending path straight ahead. Ignore mule track to left after 100m and continue ahead on path, which overlooks the river valley. Path now drops down to a meadow and passes a ruined building on R. Continue on path, now flanked by low wall, past ruined buildings on L, until reaching the Tabust house.

Proceed through one gate; make way down to valley floor: there is no real path but this section is short and easy; continue up the valley. Cross little bridge over the Coussane.

Climb up forest track beyond to junction with road. Turn R along road and leave road at first track on R. At the next fork, take path on L which leads to the trout fishery. Turn L and return to Estaing via the outward route.

FF1: The most famous (very part-time) inhabitant of Estaing is Valery Giscard d’Estaing, the former French President (born 1926, president 1974-1981). Despite the addition of "d'Estaing" to the family name, Giscard is not descended from the extinct noble family of Vice-Admiral d'Estaing. The name was adopted by his grandfather in 1922 by reason of a distant connection to an illegitimate line of another branch of the family.

In 2005 VGE and his brother Olivier bought the castle of Estaing, formerly a possession of the above- mentioned admiral d'Estaing who was beheaded in 1794. The castle is not used as a full time residence but it has symbolic value. The two brothers explained that the purchase, supported by the local municipality, was an act of patronage. However, a number of major newspapers in several countries (including Le Monde and The Sunday Times) questioned their motives and some hinted at self-appointed nobility and a usurped historical identity (Le Monde’s headline on 24 December 2004 was “Après le nom, le château »).

Day 12

ESTAING TO ESPEYRAC

Today is quite a hard day involving long ascents (largely on surfaced roads if you choose the GR65 route). Golinhac can be reached by lunchtime if you leave Estaing by 08.30hrs. Restaurant/Bar La Bastide d’Olt is open daily by the church square (no picnics allowed but pleasant public space with benches and good views just opposite the restaurant).

Start of walk: Hotel Aux Armes d’Estaing End of Walk: Hotel de la Vallée, ESPEYRAC Distance: 24.5km (15.3 miles) Ascent/Descent & 750m ascent, 660m descent Maximum altitude: Max alt :685m Walking Time: 6 hours Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2438 O “ESTAING” and 2338 E “MARCILLAC-VALLON. CONQUES” Route: Estaing – Golinhac – Espeyrac OR by GR6 (see note below) Terrain & Hazards: No significant problems Picnic / food / drinks: Picnic or Bar/Restaurant in Golinhac GPS Track: 12 ESPEYRAC Seasonal Chose GR65 or GR6 – study maps in advance. considerations:

Leave Estaing: re-cross the road bridge and take first road on R. Road follows river Lot to la Rouquette, but just before hamlet take well signed track to L which leads to bridge over ruisseau Luzane. The Chemin now follows zig zag paths up to Riou du Prat route then continues via la Bernarderie and beyond to La Sansaguerie where there is a conspicuous water tap at left hand side of the road (GR04703 49354). (1hr 20 mins, 6.5km).

Follow map and waymarking via metalled roads and paths variously to Golinhac.For clients who do not wish to walk further, a taxi can be obtained on 05 65 44 51 31, or ask at Bastide d’Olt (2 hrs ¾, 13.5 km).

Continue on Chemin St Jacques/GR65. After hamlet les Albusquiès consult map and notice forthcoming conjunction of GR6 and GR65 near Campagnac. The most conspicuous waymarks now lead via le Soulié and onto Carboniès. 300m beyond Carboniès easy route continues on metalled road to Espeyrac, scenic route through woodland, etc to the village. Hotel de la Vallée is at the lowest road in the village, not far from the cemetery. If approaching by easy route, enter the building with Jupiler sign outside. Enter through apparent basement and climb stairs to upper ground floor.

Some of the rooms at Hotel de la Vallée are very basic (no en-suite, not much furniture of facilities of any kind). It is the only hotel in the village.

Alternative:

With a competent group it is possible to take the GR6. This is shorter at 22km.

From Estaing re-cross the road bridge and go L of the chapel. The GR6 is clearly marked; follow waymarks via Campuac which has a very welcome bar which allows picnics to be eaten. There are public toilets and drinking water. The “Proxi- Marché” closes for lunch at 12.00hrs. Bad weather shelter can be had in covered yard of village primary school or covered bus stop down road beyond school. This route involves quite a © Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 27 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 27 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

hard climb through woods at the start, then sometimes flat along small roads and paths, often on narrow trails across wooded valleys with frequent short steep descents and ascents: difficult in wet conditions. Also, the stream between Roumanettes and Comes floods after heavy rain – passable only by a sure-footed group. GR6 and GR65 converge at Campagnac.

Day 13

ESPEYRAC TO CONQUES

Most of the route is on pleasant footpaths but then there are 4km of metalled roads. The very steep descent down a rough path into Conques can be avoided by following the road.

Start of walk: Hotel de la Vallée, Espeyrac End of Walk: Hotel St Jacques, Conques Distance: 11.8m (7.3 miles) Ascent/Descent & 260m ascent, 360m descent Maximum altitude: Max alt: 626m Walking Time: 3hrs Transport & Cost: None Maps & Books: IGN 2338 E “MARCILLAC-VALLON. CONQUES” Route: Sénergues, St Marcel, Conques Terrain & Hazards: In wet weather the path into Conques is very slippery Picnic / food / drinks: Shops and cafés in Sénergues / Conques by lunch time GPS Track: 13 CONQUES Seasonal Walking poles useful on final descent to Conques considerations:

Leave Espeyrac: turn L from bar of hotel and cross D42. Proceed down road past cemetery. Cross stream and turn L to climb opposite hillside. Follow the Chemin to Sénergues. Shops and cafés here, as well as church, château and tower. Proceed south west out of Sénergues on D242, turn R up metalled road on outskirts of the village (30 mins, 2.5km).

Follow waymarked paths which cross and re-cross D42 and D137 then join D42 for approx 2km. After hamlet of Fontromieu take waymarked lane to right, leading to village of St Marcel (toilets). Approx 1km beyond St Marcel turn L down steep rocky footpath to Conques, which can be very slippery in wet weather (2 ½ hrs, 12 km).

Approaching Conques, on meeting D42 road cross and continue ahead steeply downhill to start of cobbles. At fork sign pointing way L to Abbey and Tourist Office, descent steps L to surfaced road beside Abbey, passing Tourist Office (consider stopping at T.O. on arrival but closed lunch hours). Recommend obtain leaflet “Step by Step Through the History of Conques” for clients to use later. Continue downhill to cobbles, pass War Memorial and fountain, hotel is just beyond on R. Celebrate!

Two short walks from Conques to superb viewpoints

After completing the main trail, most clients do not want another strenuous walk from Conques but are sometimes happy to do one or both of the following, either as a group or individually.

1. To Chapelle St Foy

From the hotel follow the GR65 waymarking down to the Dourdou River then up the other side of the valley to the Chapelle St Foy for superb views of valley and Conques. Return down to where route crosses the road, then walk back down the road to the Dourdou. Total ascent and descent for the return walk is 205m, 65m down to the river and 140m up the other side.

2. To the Croix St Foy © Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 29 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 29 RWH aims to generate funds for walking charities by providing outstanding outdoor activity holidays worldwide.

From the Place de l’Eglise, follow the GR62 waymarking down to the River Ouche then up the other side of the valley to the Cross, from where there are again superb views of Conques and the valleys. Return the same way. Total ascent for the return walk is 150m; 65m down to the Ouche and 85m up the other side of the valley.

Day 14

CONQUES AND TRANSFER TO TOULOUSE AIRPORT

 Free time in the morning to explore Conques. Strongly recommend you visit St Foy’s Treasure (entrance fee €6 individual, €4.20 with group discount Sept 2017).  Vacate room by 10.00, leave luggage where found on arrival  Bus leaves at 12.00 from the lower car park (call the bus company the day before to agree on this and get the driver’s number). Journey time 2 ½ hrs with 10 mins comfort stop en route (toilets only. No food or drinks).  Purchase food and drink to consume on journey from the bakery opposite the hotel. Restaurants, etc at Toulouse Blagnac airport.

© Ramblers Walking Holidays Page 30 of 30 Private & Confidential 10100 Route St Jacques 2018v1 Revised October 2017 Please use ’Track Changes’ for amendments and email to [email protected]. Please inform us if these changes affect the holiday arrangements as described in the brochure, website or HI. 30