Frilled Neck Lizards

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FRILLED NECK LIZARDS

Chlamydosaurus kingii – Category 4

NECESSITIES  VIVARIUM  UVA/UVB LIGHTING  DAY HEAT GLOBE  SUBSTRATE  WATER BOWL  THERMOSTAT

Dragons can live for up to 20 years in captivity.

Requirements You require a licence issued by D.E.C See above for the Category of licence.

Housing Frilled Neck Lizards can reach 95cm in length from head to tail, can weigh up to 500g and the diameter of the frill can reach 20-25cm. They are fairly active diurnal lizards that like to climb. Enclosures therefore need to reflect the animal’s size and type of activity. An enclosure for one adult Frilled Neck Lizard should be a MINIMUM of 4’ high x 3’ wide. Custom built enclosures are a good option as you can build the biggest enclosure you can in your available space. These animals spend a lot of their time in trees in the wild, so furnish their enclosure with tall vertical climbing branches that will support their weight. Branches

Substrate Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is suitable for adult Frilled Neck Lizards. However, very young lizards can accidentally ingest sand when they eat causing compaction (constipation from ingesting sand). This can be avoided by either using a paper substrate or by hand feeding the animal outside of the enclosure. Red pindan sand is available in specialised pet shops with a range of coloured sand also available including Reptilite calcium sand that can be used on top.

Humidity and Water Humidity levels of 50-70% should be provided and you can do this by supplying these lizards with a large water bowl with clean water at all times. It should be large enough to bathe in (but shallow for very young dragons). If humidity levels become too high, respiratory problems may occur.

Temperature and Lighting Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the dragons to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 35-38C with the cool end approximately 24-27C. If temperatures are likely to drop below 18C overnight, use a night heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter that give off little light but enough heat to keep the animal warm on cold nights.

The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used and sometimes a combination of lamps is required to get the right amount of heat. Consider using Mercury Vapour Bulbs that are basking and UV lights all in one. A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB tube as well for 10 hours during winter and 12 hours ReptileTrader Care Sheet www.reptiletrader.com.au

during summer each day to provide the UVB light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure).

Food Frilled Neck Lizards are omnivorous (meat and veg) and eat a LOT and they get a lot of their moisture requirement from their food. Wait until at least an hour after the heat lamp comes on before you feed them and feed them at least two hours before the heat goes off giving them plenty of time to digest their food properly. They can be fed live crickets, large mealworms, pinky mice, roaches, cooked eggs and canned reptile food. You can also feed them a mixture of tinned cat food (no fish) with grated carrot and finely chopped lettuce. Gutload insects before feeding. Dust insects and pinkies with calcium supplement powder every day for juveniles and every second day for adults. These lizards grow fairly quickly and UVB and calcium are essential for healthy bone development or they run the very real risk of Metabolic Bone Disease. Feed hatchlings and juveniles twice a day and adults once a day.

Handling Frilled Neck Lizards have very strong personalities and are naturally curious. Young ones can be shy at first but they warm up to their keepers quickly. When handling them, place the bulk of their body in your palm with your hand and forearm held as a ‘tree’ for the animal to grip. However they may prefer to sit on your shoulder or head. Remember their claws are fairly long and sharp for climbing. If startled, they could inflict nasty scratches. Wash your hands before and after handling your dragon.

Recommended Extras Thermometer – to help monitor ideal heat requirements. Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet. Multivitamins & Calcium – mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement. Gutload – to fully nourish insects before feeding off. Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush. Reptile Essentials Pack – contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.

Accessories Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Water Well, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Waterfall, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration.

Health Colloidal Silver – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal tonic used to keep water fresh, to help control parasites and worms. Add a teaspoon to drinking water or dab on minor wounds. Body Guard – a preventative antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal spray that can be used for cleaning the interior of the enclosure as well as bark, branches, water and food bowls. Also used for the treatment of minor wounds and aids in healthy shedding. Cage Cleaner – ideally suited to the cleaning of reptile enclosures. Multivitamins & Calcium – dusted on live food as a dietary supplement. Worm Rid – in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper. ReptileTrader Care Sheet www.reptiletrader.com.au

Recommended Websites: www.dec.wa.gov.au www.reptiletrader.com.au www.radicalreptiles.com.au

Should you have any worries concerning your pet, please feel free to bring it to the shop for our expert attention at Reptile Trader.