Fort Lewis College

Fort Lewis College Adventure Education Program AE 321: Lead Rock Climbing Fall 2010

Instructor: Lee Frazer, Ph.D. TA: Skyeler Congdon Office: 29A Pine Hall Email: Phone: 247-7353 Cell Phone: (970) 759-9406 (For use only when.) Email: [email protected] Office Hours: MW 2:00-5:00

COURSE CATALOG DESCRIPTION: AE 321 is an advanced climbing skills course focusing on traditional lead climbing, including selection and placement of protection, route finding, lead climbing and belaying techniques, multiple pitch climbing, advanced anchor building, rescue systems, and climbing instructional strategies.

EXPANDED COURSE DESCRIPTION: Like other AE outdoor skills courses this course is not an activity course, per se, but a professional skills course for preparing adventure educators to work effectively in institutional settings. For those without leading experience, your climbing knowledge and skills will grow dramatically. For those with leading experience, this course will introduce you to the institutional context, expand your repertoire of lead climbing skills, and begin to prepare you to work directly with the kinds of clients/students you may encounter in an adventure education program which uses lead climbing to accomplish educational goals. If you’re interested in working as a professional climbing guide or for an organization like Outward Bound or NOLS with a well-managed climbing or mountaineering program, then I suggest you eventually look into seeking AMGA certification, the training and testing of which some employers (like OB) will subsidize. This course provides a strong foundation for moving in that direction, particularly if you’ve had limited exposure to lead climbing in institutional settings.

What this course is not:  First off, if you have limited traditional lead climbing experience, then this class will not turn you into a masterful lead climber – there’s simply not enough time for this. In short, it will be a “spring-board” for further education and development.  The focus in this course is not on making you a “harder” (i.e., physically stronger) climber, but a smarter climber. You can get strong on your own time.

PREREQUISITES: Official:  AE 101 (Foundations of AE) & AE 121 (Top Rope Rock Climbing).  At least 1 year of personal top-rope climbing experience is necessary before enrollment in AE 321.  AE major or minor.

Unofficial: - Proficiency in all AE 121 skills, including: o Being able to set up and manage a top rope rock climb using a “top” or “sling-shot” belay system. o All knots and basic rope work taught in AE 121. - You are active and healthy enough to be able to follow 5.9 and carry a 50 lb. pack uphill for 30 2 minutes.

CLASS MEETING TIME / LOCATION: TR, 12:20-5:35 and some weekends / See course schedule (handed out separately)

MANDATORY OVERNIGHT TRIP:

Thursday, 10/28 – Sunday, 10/31 (returning to campus between 6-8 pm)

COURSE OBJECTIVES: Along our path, you will read about, discuss in class, and participate in field experiences that involve developing knowledge and skill in: - Climbing techniques and equipment management for lead climbing. - Equipment and protection selection including placement of traditional protection (hexes, stoppers, tri-cams, and SLCDs). - Comfort with using mechanical belay devices/techniques (including auto locking devices and a munter hitch belay) and non-mechanical (hip belay) belay methods. - Time and pace management related to lead rock climbing. - Complex anchor construction in single and multi-pitch lead climbing. - Fixed anchor assessment. - Choosing appropriate belay methods and stances. - Hazard recognition and risk management. - Equipment packing and preparation for lead climbing trips and programs. - Emergency procedures for lead climbing settings. - Pedagogical methods for imparting/teaching lead climbing skills, knowledge, and awareness. - Leave No Trace practices and techniques applicable to lead climbing. - Skills in self-rescue, including but not limited to: 1. Performing “belay escapes.” 2. Improvised rappelling/belaying techniques. 3. Constructing improvised harnesses. 4. Performing improvised ascending methods. 5. Conducting retrievals. - Skills, knowledge, and awarenesses/ (“habits of mind”) specific to multi-pitch climbing, such as: 1. Station management. 2. Pacing, preparation and packing. 3. Route finding. 4. Alternate descending techniques. 5. Improvised non-mechanical ascending. - Guiding techniques and institutional standards (SOPs) used in lead climbing settings including, but not limited to: 3 1. Teaching lead climbing to clients/students. 2. Rappelling and lowering with clients/students. 3. Multiple client guiding. 4. Short roping and short pitching techniques. 5. Raising systems for guiding. 6. Client care. 7. Client orientation and preparation.

REQUIRED COURSE TEXT & READINGS: 1. Traditional Lead Climbing (2007) by Heidi Pesterfield – available at the FLC bookstore. 2. Accidents in North American Mountaineering – 2009 by Jed Williamson – available at the FLC bookstore. 3. Additional articles, handouts, or websites may be distributed in class, electronically, or be made available on my faculty “O” drive.

OPTIONAL TEXTS: 1. Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations (2006) by Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis – available at the FLC bookstore. 2. R ock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills (2004) by Craig Luebben – available at local outdoor stores and at Amazon.com (note: this is the text used in AE 121, Top Rope Rock Climbing).

MAJOR ASSIGNMENTS & ASSESSMENT PRACTICES: The following assignments are determined as best as possible at the beginning of the course. They may be altered, however, if the flow of the course or learning objectives would be better served. We will discuss any changes in advance. In short, here’s how I’ll assess you: Assignment % of overall grade Class participation 15% Informal assessments of K/S 15% Formal assessments of K/S 25% Course project 20% Final exam 25%

1) Class Participation (15% of course grade) Includes:  Arriving on time and prepared, having completed the readings and prepared for assigned discussion topics.  Regularly participating in class discussions and activities. In other words, being actively involved.  Supporting your peers, which could include playing the role of peer educator on occasion or assisting a peer with something else. 2) Informal Assessments of Skills/Knowledge (15% of course grade) Students will be required to successfully pass skills tests or perform demonstrations – 4 graded on a pass/fail basis – indicating that you are progressing and developing skills and knowledge in lead climbing, as well as developing your teaching repertoire for working with clients/students in lead climbing settings. For instance, this may include demonstrating the ability to: - build a solid top rope anchor - perform a belay escape - belay a lead climber - safely lead a trad climb (or mock lead) within one’s ability, which includes placing solid protection on lead and building an anchor for the second - build anchors suitable for multi-pitch climbing - perform a counter-balance rescue - and others TBA. 3) Formal Assessments of Skills/Knowledge (25% of course grade) Consisting of 4-6 quizzes on material covered in classes and textbook. Some are announced ahead of time; others aren’t. 4) Accidents in N.A. Mountaineering Course Project (20% of course grade)

5) Final exam (25% of course grade) Comprehensive exam covering major course concepts and material from demonstrations/lessons, readings, class discussions, etc.

Grading: A = 93-100 A- = 90-92 B+ = 87-89 B = 83-86 B- = 80-82 C+ = 77-79 C = 73-76 C- = 70-72 D+ = 67-69 D = 63-66 D- = 60-62 F = 0-59

ADDITIONAL COURSE PRACTICES / EXPECTATIONS: As an adventure educator you need to be very involved and engaged, so make a habit of the following responsible practices, including: 1. Class Attendance: Because our classes are long and very experiential, attendance at every class is required to stay up to date on material and be successful in this course. Thus, I take attendance in this class. With that, an unexcused absence will lower the course grade by 10% out of 100, a reduction of a full letter grade. An excused class absence includes illness, family emergencies, but please try to notify one of us in advance. Register for this class knowing you can make a complete attendance commitment, without schedule conflicts.

2. Class Preparation: Physically and mentally speaking, lead climbing can be challenging and require immense endurance. Therefore, it is critical you heed the following:

a. Come to class ready to be very physical. If you’re not currently in great shape, then I’d suggest you start a regular exercise and stretching routine. Your body will thank you at the end of the day.

b. Come to class with the right clothing, adequate food and H2O, etc.: As this is a field course (wholly outside), you are expected to be prepared for any environmental condition we could encounter this time of year, and the risks and hazards posed by 5 challenge courses. As you’ll often hear adventure educators say: “If you’re cold, tired, or hungry, you’re less likely to learn.” Therefore, as soon as we hit the field, you will need to be prepared to bring:  Clothing for any weather – cold, snow, warm, rain, sun, etc. This includes: a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and no cotton. And sometimes may mean bringing full rain gear.  Food and water. We suggest 2 quarts of water minimum. In general, come to class prepared to sweat and expend calories.  Backpack to carry all of the above from the parking lot to the crag. When you’re working as an adventure education professional, this is not the time for a personal epic!

c. Come to class having completed readings or other assignments: It is expected that you come to class prepared, having done the reading and completed the assignments prior to class. In a small class like this, it’s noticeable who is prepared and who is not. To this end, we suggest you bring the following to every class:  A field-size notebook with which to take notes in the field.  Course textbooks, handouts, etc. In short, as an adventure education professional you are expected to be prepared. For instance, if you are working for a wilderness program and have not conducted a reconnaissance of the backcountry you intend to use or read the medical forms of your participants, you are negligent. For class, this means having completed the readings and assignments prior to class and so forth.

3. Late and Unprepared assignments: Written assignments are due during class on the date announced in class or in the class schedule. You can also email your assignments before class, but bring a hard copy with you to class for discussion and sharing. Class presentations and facilitations for which you have responsibility are likewise due on the date assigned or chosen, unless you have made arrangements with one of us at least a week in advance. Be aware of the course schedule; we will generally not announce reminders in class. Technology problems such as a printer running out of ink can be avoided by planning ahead; there are also plenty of computer facilities on campus. Late assignments receive a reduction of 10 percentage points (out of 100) for each class session handed in late. This deduction also applies to scheduled class presentations or facilitations for which you are unprepared. Late assignments and unprepared presentations not graded on a 100-point scale will receive a commensurate or will not be accepted and receive a zero. “Late” means anytime after the time class begins; if you have an unexcused absence from class, the assignment is still late after the due date on which you were absent.

4. Be Professional: Learning and teaching occur best in an environment free of distraction. Therefore…  Arrive on time for class.  Come to class awake, sober and alert. For safety reasons, if you come to class impaired you will be asked to leave, and consequences for class absence (as discussed above) will apply.  Come ready to plug into class, and therefore unplugged from all electronic distractions once you enter class. Do not bring cell phones turned on. It’s not OK for cell phones to be on silent or vibrate mode; turn them off. Do not text message in class. Also, do not bring iPods or other music players. Do not bring laptop computers, unless necessary for class use.  Use professional language that communicates respect and courtesy to your fellow classmates.

5. Standards for written work: 6 Your written work should be high quality and commensurate with that of a beginning professional.

6. Originality of written work (plagiarism):  Academic integrity. Since you are a college student, all written work and assignments, including presentations, must be be original and not previously submitted for other courses. By this, you are expected to know and adhere to Fort Lewis’ academic integrity policy, which can be found at: http://www.fortlewis.edu/shared/content_objects/records_office/academic_policies//policies_ %20academic_%202006_%20ledger.pdf  Work determined not to be original – such as papers that do not provide proper bibliographic citations of original sources or work that was previously submitted for another course – may result in a grade of “0” on the assignment or failure of the course. Additional actions may include a review and hearing by the Academic Standards Committee, which may result in sanctions including suspension or dismissal from the College.

 Citing sources. It is your responsibility to know how to include proper bibliographic citations in your papers when you are paraphrasing or quoting from another printed or electronic source.

7. Extra credit work is not available, to be fair to everyone in class.

OTHER IMPORTANT COURSE NOTES: 1. Reasonable Accommodation: Students with disabilities have equal access and equal opportunity in this course. If you require reasonable accommodations to fully participate in course activities or meet course requirements, you must register with Disability Services, 280 Noble Hall, 247-7459. If you qualify for services, bring your letter of accommodation to us as soon as possible. 2. Email: All course-related email correspondence must be conducted using your “fortlewis.edu” address. As a part of this course, you are responsible for checking your “fortlewis.edu” email for course-related information every day, if not every other day. 3. Office Hours: Draw on these opportunities. We are available for any course-related discussion, information about the AE major/minor and career planning, as well as for just plain and simple talking. Office hours allow us to get to know each other as learners, teachers, and human beings and adds a human dimension to things. And whatever you do, don’t wait until it’s too late—come by during office hours to discuss any concerns you have about class. 4. Professional Recommendation: The adventure education program site you intern at during your senior year, summer and post-graduate jobs you apply for, and graduate schools require letters of recommendation, some of which are from your Adventure Education faculty. If you think you would someday benefit from such a letter from me, your involvement in this and all Adventure Education courses should show the following:  Be punctual and prepared for class by doing all the required readings and assignments.  Actively participate in class experiences, discussions and exercises.  Take initiative, do extra readings to explore your interest in lead climbing, and help others learn and improve skills.  Be a critical thinker. Ask questions, challenge assumptions.  Turn your assignments in on time. Write meaningful self-reflections on facilitation and provide useful feedback to your peers.  Be polite, professional and courteous with your colleagues, your instructors and other users at the crags where we’ll be. 7

AE 321 Schedule – Fall 2010

NOTE: To account for weather and changing student needs, this schedule is subject to last minute changes! Stay tuned to your email for updates.

Day Location Topics Preparation / Reading DUE Day 1 – Pine Hall  Introductions 10/19  Syllabus, schedule, and other paperwork  Review AE 121 material o Rope handling, climbing communication, knots and hitches, hazards and general risk mgmt, belaying, anchors, climbing etiquette, etc. o Anchors – EARNEST, types of anchors, sliding & limiting X, rabbit ears, etc. o Placing pro – RDCS, etc.

 Gear / “tools of the trad”

Day 2 – OP Wall  Intro to single-pitch leading Pesterfield (P) Chs. 2-4, 10/21 o Lead belaying 6 (pp. 121-134) o Communication o At the base – racking up, safety checks, Optional: Ch. 1 base belay spot, etc. o Rope mgmt - rope positioning and clipping, etc. o Movement on lead – testing holds, rhythm, energy conservation, down climbing, backing off, hanging, no-hands resting, etc.

Day 3 – X-Rock  Quiz #1? Pesterfield Chs. 5, 8, 9 10/23 (8  Anchor building for top-rope climbing (review) am – 4 pm) o EARNEST o 12 point rule o Edge management o Fixed gear o Etc.  Introduction to self-rescue o Improvised rappels o Improvised ascending o Belay escapes 8 Day 4 – X-Rock  More practice w/ pro placement Pesterfield Ch. 6 (rest of 10/24 (8 chapter) am – 5 pm)  Skills of single-pitch trad leading o At the base – racking up, safety checks, base belay spot, etc. o Protection placement – RDCS o Lead protection and rope mgmt - placing pro on lead, frequency, runners, rope positioning and clipping, etc. o Movement on lead Day 5 – X-Rock  Skills of single-pitch trad leading (continued) 10/26 o Protecting the second o Protecting traverses o Multi-directional protection o Double placements o Following & Cleaning

 Mock leading

Days 6-9 – Unaweep  Establishing uni- and multidirectional belay Pesterfield Chs. 7, 10 10/28-31 Canyon, anchors – location, fixed gear, etc. (overnight CO ANAM, pp. 1-56 trip)  First-leads (“Putting it all together”)

 Hanging belays

 Multipitch climbing (TBD) o Belays – changeover, etc. o Preparation o Hazards o Descending o Etc.

 Climbing ethics/issues (TBD)

Day 10 – East TBD 11/2 Animas

Day 11 – East TBD 11/4 Animas

Day 12 – East TBD ANAM, pp. 57-112 11/9 Animas

Day 13 – East  More self-rescue (assisted retrievals) 11/16 Animas o Counter-balance rescue o Tandem rappels

 Other (if time permits) o Z-drags (raises) o Guiding techniques – short roping, short pitching, etc. o Guiding vs. instructing o Simu-rappels

Final Review all notes, 9 Exam – quizzes, and readings assigned to date. (Currently scheduled for finals week – reschedul e?)