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Courtesy Of: Sue Kraft Company: KST Travel Phone: 678.559.8596 E-Mail: [email protected]

Montego Bay, Jamaica OVERVIEW Introduction

Known fondly as MoBay, Montego Bay is the second-largest city in Jamaica and the country's lively epicenter of tourism: Cruise ships frequent its port, and many of the visitors who arrive in Jamaica by plane land just east of Montego Bay at the Sangster International Airport. The waterfront is lined with white-sand beaches, hotels and elegant resorts. Its main attractions include championship golf courses, excellent beaches, the Montego Bay Marine Park, and some classic Georgian architecture downtown. Gloucester Avenue, known locally as the Hip Strip, parallels the shore and is the commercial tourist hub. Because it's a much larger city than Jamaica's other tourist areas, Montego Bay offers more in the way of sightseeing, shopping and nightlife. Must See or Do Sights—Snorkeling and diving at Montego Bay Marine Park; Doctor's Cave Beach, with its fine vistas across the bay. Museums—Rose Hall Great House, recalling the historic significance of the plantation-slave era; Croydon Plantation, granting a latter-day perspective on the workings of a modern sugar plantation. Memorable Meals—Hearty Jamaican fare at the historic Town House By the Sea; nouvelle cuisine at the Houseboat Grill International Restaurant; mouth-searing jerk chicken, pork or fish at Scotchies. Late Night—Nonstop partying on the Hip Strip; letting your hair down at Margaritaville; the Monday- night street party on Gloucester Avenue; jazz and drinks at Blue Beat on the Hip Strip. Walks—The historic downtown, with its colorful, bustling life, Sam Sharpe Square, St. James Parish Church and the craft market. Especially for Kids—Go-karts and safe swimming at AquaSol Theme Park; exploring the undersea world aboard a semisubmarine with bubble-dome windows. Geography The largest town on the north coast, Montego Bay occupies a broad valley and the slopes of the surrounding Bogue, Kempshot and Salem hills. The beaches line the east side of the bay, north of downtown. Residents tend to live downtown, south of the square and in the hills. Hotels, tourist-oriented businesses and vendors are concentrated to the north along Gloucester Avenue—the main tourist strip. The main all-inclusive resorts line the sandy shore and extend for several miles/kilometers east of the airport, which is northeast of town. Highway A1 (the North Coast Highway) is the main thoroughfare. Upgrades to the road have reduced the drive time from Montego Bay to the other major cities. History Christopher Columbus named the bay Golfo de Buen Tiempo, or Gulf of Fair Weather. Montego's modern name comes from the Spanish Bahia de Manteca, or Bay of Pigs' Lard, after the large quantity of lard exported by the Spanish. (It came from the wild boars that lived in the hills around the bay.) The Spanish also planted sugarcane, importing slaves from Africa to work the plantations. After the British drove the Spanish out in 1655, they continued the plantation tradition. The town grew with warehouses and lavish homes sprouting up along the waterfront. Around Christmas 1831, slave and part-time preacher Sam Sharpe convinced other slaves to stage a nonviolent strike. The rebellion turned violent, however, and it was brutally suppressed by British troops. Sharpe and several other slaves were hanged in Montego Bay. The square where the gallows stood is now named for Sharpe (a statue there honors him as a national hero). Early seeds of tourism were sown in Montego Bay when wealthy plantation owners took their families to Doctor's Cave Beach, where the mineral springs were thought to have curative powers. By 1908, the Montego Bay Citizens' Association was promoting the city as "the most beautiful spot in Jamaica." Although hotels emerged, tourism remained limited until the advent of commercial jet aviation. Ensuing decades witnessed construction of top-class hotels in the hills, and all-inclusive resorts were built in the 1980s. Cruise traffic has been given a boost by enhancements to the harbor, and a new convention center is located just east of the city. Port Information Location As many as four cruise ships can dock at the pier in Montego Bay's Freeport zone, about 3 mi/5 km west of downtown. The city spreads east and north around the harbor from the Freeport zone past the town center and the tourist district. There's a tourist-information booth in the cruise-ship terminal, a telecommunications center (phone, Internet and fax services), a refreshment stand and many duty- free shops. When you get off your ship you'll walk into a fenced, secure area that's off-limits to vendors and unlicensed taxis. There's plenty of licensed transportation available. A taxi ride to the city center will cost about US$5. We advise against walking from the terminal to town: It's a hot, shadeless 3-mi/5- km hike. There is no bus service between the pier and town. Another option is to take one of the JCAL (Jamaica Cooperative Automobile & Limousine Tours; phone 876-971-8063) or JUTA shuttles (phone 876-952-0813) that run from the pier. They charge about US$5 to the city center. If you specify a time that you want to return to the pier, the driver will return for you. The Jamaica Tourist Board office has moved from its previous location on Gloucester Avenue to the Jamaican Tourism Centre, 18 Queens Drive. It is open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm and Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Phone 876-952-4425. The Tourism Product Development Co. (TPDCO) licenses attractions (Jamaica has 150 licensed attractions, more than any other Caribbean island). It is located in the Jamaican Tourism Centre and is open Monday-Thursday 8:30 am-5 pm and Friday 8:30 am-4 pm. Phone 876-979-7987. http://www.tpdco.org. Shore Excursions Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see the island, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Typical excursions out of Montego Bay are tours of historic houses and plantations, a round of golf, overland treks by bus or on horseback, and forays to explore underwater mysteries in a semisubmersible boat or through a snorkeling mask. Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Check with your ship's shore- excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information. Potpourri The expanse of land from the Hip Strip to the Parish Library was once part of the shore, and all development there is fairly recent, within the past 30-50 years. Doctor's Cave Beach does not have a cave. It was destroyed by a hurricane in the 1800s. The Morant Point Lighthouse—an unmistakable red-and-white, 100-ft/31-m tall, 18-ft/5.6-km wide cast-iron tower—was built in 1841 and is the oldest lighthouse in Jamaica. The Burchell Baptist Church was a haven for freed slaves and was where Sam Sharpe, one of seven national heroes, instigated the rebellion that led to the 1834 Abolition Bill. The Montego Freeport was originally a group of keys to the west of Montego Bay. The harbor was dredged and the land built up to facilitate this development. The tiny cemetery at the end of the Hip Strip is the little-known Jewish cemetery, with gravestones dating back hundreds of years. The cemetery was declared a national monument in 1993. Montego Bay is a golfer's nirvana with several championship courses within a 10-minute drive of one another. How Stella Got Her Groove Back was filmed at Villa No. 11 at the Round Hill Resort in 1998. After romancing Angela Bassett in the film, actor Taye Diggs returned to the luxurious resort in 2003 to marry Broadway singer Idina Menzel in a fairy-tale seaside wedding. SEE & DO Sightseeing You can easily explore downtown Montego Bay on foot if you have tolerance for vendors (keep your sense of humor). The town is almost always crowded with local shoppers and noisy with the sounds of reggae music wafting from the clubs and from car radios. Much of MoBay consists of modern structures built on land reclaimed from mangrove keys in the 1960s, but there are many fine historic buildings of note concentrated around Sam Sharpe Square. Several elegantly restored homes from the 1700s now contain restaurants. One example is the Georgian House on Orange Street, which also has an art gallery. Northeast of downtown are the meager ruins of Fort Montego, built in 1752 on a hill overlooking the harbor. Three of the fort's 17 original cannons are still pointed out to sea. Two of Jamaica's best-known "great houses," Rose Hall and Greenwood, are near Montego Bay. Built and lavishly furnished by English aristocrats, they recount the island's plantation history better than any history book or tour brochure. Tours of both houses are offered. Historic Sites Bellefield Great House Located on the 3,000-acre/1,215-hectare Barnett Estate near Montego Bay, this restored historic house is open to visitors and offers guided tours. The great house is furnished in period style, and the former overseer's home, also restored, is today a museum retracing the history of the Montego Bay region. The museum focuses on the Kerr-Jarrett family, which has owned the estate for around 300 years. The Bellfield Restaurant is a popular stop for tourists. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Tours US$20 adults; meals US$20. Highway A1, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-2382. http://www.bellefieldgreathouse.com.

Greenwood Great House The large collection of antique musical instruments and original furniture make this mansion well worth a visit. The house, which is about 5 mi/8 km east of Rose Hall on the North Coast Highway, was built in the latter part of the 1700s by former Jamaican planter-politician Sir Richard Barrett, a cousin of the English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning. A collection of antique carriages is also on display, as are antiquarian books and slave shackles. The property has a traditional pub and a gift shop. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Last tour starts at 5 pm. US$20 adults, US$10 for children younger than 12. Highway A1, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-1077. http://www.greenwoodgreathouse.com.

Rose Hall Great House Built in the late 1700s on a hillside overlooking the sea, Rose Hall was considered the finest house on the island when completed. It was destroyed by fire in the 1831 Christmas Rebellion and, fortunately, rebuilt and restored to its former grandeur in 1966. Besides its fine position and magnificent antique furnishings, Rose Hall's main attraction stems from a legend that the house is haunted by one of its previous occupants, a woman named Annie Palmer (also known as the White Witch of Rose Hall), who is buried on the grounds. According to legend, she killed several husbands and lovers in the mansion before she was murdered. (The truth is tamer: The original mistress of Rose Hall, Rose Palmer, did have four husbands, but she was happily married to the last one and died peacefully before him.) The graves of her husbands are said to be marked by three palm trees, which are visible from the house. Daytime guided tours begin whenever visitors arrive, starting at 9:15 am and ending at 5:15 pm. Tours last 45 minutes and end in the gift shop and pub, where traditional fare is served. Nightly tours are available Monday-Saturday 6-10 pm. US$20 adults, US$10 children younger than 12. Highway A1, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-2323. http://www.rosehall.com.

Sam Sharpe Square Also called The Parade, this small cobbled square forming the node of downtown is one of Jamaica's most revered sites. It contains a fountain and a statue of Sharpe, a black Jamaican preacher who led an 1831 slave rebellion and advocated nonviolent resistance. (Sharpe was hanged for his actions.) The square is surrounded by Georgian buildings. To the northwest corner stands The Cage, a cut-stone building once used as a jail for runaway slaves that now sells T-shirts and phone cards. The handsome Civic Center, to the southwest, has a small museum tracing local history. It occupies the former site of the Court House, which was built in 1804 but destroyed by a fire in 1968. St. James and Market streets, Montego Bay.

St. James Parish Church Dedicated to St. James, patron saint of Spain, this Anglican church was built between 1775 and 1782. It stands in an overgrown graveyard that has seen better days but is intriguing for its weathered gravestones—many dating back more than two centuries. It has been restored following damage caused by a devastating earthquake in 1951. The church contains fine marble statuary, an elaborate Palladian window behind the altar, and fine examples of stained-glass windows. Church Street, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-2775.

The Old Jewish Cemetery At the end of Gloucester Avenue and managed by the St. James Parish Council, this is one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in the Caribbean. The gates are kept locked, but the Jamaica National Heritage Trust can arrange entry. Phone 876-922-1287.

Nature Fire Hole What may be the island's best-kept secret, the Fire Hole in Runaway Bay is a saltwater spring bubbling with flammable natural gases that create floating flames when lit. The mystical firewater (officially called Windsor Spring) is believed to relieve symptoms of tired muscles and itchy insect bites.

Montego Bay Marine Park The park is an area that runs for 6 mi/9 km along the coast and encompasses the Bogue mangrove system and most of the bay. Motorized watercraft are regulated, and fishing is prohibited. Visitors can see the Bogue shoreline and reefs, and learn about efforts to stabilize and protect marine life across Jamaica. The underwater world proves fascinating to snorkelers and divers. Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. Free. The Resource Center, Pier 1 Marina, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-5619. http://www.mbmp.org. Parks & Gardens Belvedere Estate The heritage tours at this family-owned estate show you what it was like living and working back in the plantation days. Unfortunately, Belvedere was one of the first estates to be burned during the 1831 Christmas Rebellion, so most of the historic sites on the plantation are in ruins or have been reconstructed. However, a jitney tour through the working plantation provides a fascinating insight into the raising of tropical fruits and of cattle. There is a re-creation of a post-emancipation village that is staffed by locals in period costumes, including a blacksmith, baker, herbalist and canoe-maker. Lunch is served daily at Trash House Restaurant and Bar, where the sugarcane trash (cane fibers that were burned for fuel) was once stored, and visitors can also picnic on the grounds. Daily 10 am-4 pm. US$15. Chester Castle, off the B-7 (near the village of Montpelier), Montego Bay. Phone 876-952- 6001.

Croydon Plantation This place is a 132-acre/53-hectare working pineapple and coffee plantation. The property was the birthplace of Samuel Sharpe, who led the 1831 Christmas Rebellion that helped bring about the abolition of slavery. On a half-day estate tour, you can learn about the preparation of coffee, honey, pineapples and more. (Tastings of various types of pineapples are part of the experience.) Guided tours are offered 10:30 am-3:30 pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Wednesday is reserved for cruise ship visitors. Office open daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. US$70 tour includes a barbecue lunch and Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee. Off Highway B-6 (near Catadupa), Montego Bay. Phone 876-979- 8267. http://www.croydonplantation.com.

Amusement Parks AquaSol Theme Park This stretch of sand offers the usual watersports and is a perfect beach for young children. There are go-karts and tennis courts on-site. It has fine white sand nestled in the arm of the bay, and the water is calm even on windy days. Open daily 9 am-6 pm. Bar stays open until 10 pm. Admission: US$5 adults, US$3 children younger than 11. Rental prices: Jet Ski US$75 per half-hour, waterskiing US$55 per 15 minutes, banana-boat ride US$25 per 10 minutes. Walter Fletcher Beach on Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay. Phone 876-979-9447.

Pirate's Paradise Water Park Features a pirate ship, fort, waterslides and Blackbeard's Lazy River. Open daily 10 am-6 pm. All- inclusive day pass US$60 adults, US$40 children. Located at Sunset Beach Resort and Spa (west of the Montego Freeport cruise docks), Montego Bay. Phone 876-979-8800. Toll-free 800-234-1707. http://www.sunsetbeachresortjamaica.com.

Sugar Mill Falls Water Park Even those who are not guests of the Rose Hall Resort & Spa can spend the day splashing through cascading waterfalls, a 280-foot thrill slide, lagoons, a lazy river and three terraced pools. The jungle garden lets adventurers explore a suspension bridge, faux rock formations and replicas of the aqueducts of the former Rose Hall Plantation. US$65 adults, US$45 children. Prices include meals. Phone 876-953-2650. http://www.rosehallresort.com.

Zoos & Wildlife Animal Farm Children will love this attraction in the hills south of MoBay. Dozens of tropical bird species can be seen in cages, and geese and other fowl roam wild. Be sure to check out Rasta Fowl chickens with feathers that resemble dreadlocks. Donkey rides are offered, and it has a petting zoo. Trails lead into the adjacent forest. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm. US$3. Phone 876-899-0040. http://animalfarmjamaica.com.

Fish World Attractions This attraction in Savannah-la-Mar is an hour away from Montego Bay through the mountains. The 200-acre/81-hectare property, which was once a rice and sugar plantation, offers fishing (you can have your catch cooked), horseback riding, an ATV trail and a nature tour. Open daily 9 am-6 pm (open Monday only if a cruise ship is in port). Activity prices range US$30-$45. US$82 combo packages include lunch and transportation. Phone 876-955-4929 or 876-492-5631.

Rocklands Feeding Station Tour this sanctuary to see various trees and birds that are indigenous to Jamaica. Guests are permitted to feed the birds. Be aware that there is no snack bar or gift shop. Open daily 10 am-5 pm. Admission fee is US$15 for adults. Children are half price. Located in Anchovy, a 20-minute ride south from Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-2009 or 876-871-4759.

Recreation Montego Bay is all about the water. Visitors flock to the lovely beaches to indulge in sailboarding, fishing, snorkeling and glass-bottomed-boat tours. Even horseback rides on the beach can be arranged, and local golf courses sport a few holes with great views of the bay. If you want a more relaxing day on the water, you can take a raft ride down the Martha Brae River in nearby Falmouth. Beaches Montego Bay is bordered by lovely white-sand beaches, most of which offer changing facilities and a variety of watersports. Cornwall Beach A stretch of white sand with a range of facilities, this beach is ideal for travelers not staying at a seaside resort or for those who go into Montego Bay but want a few hours away from the stores. A restaurant, gift shop, changing facilities, umbrellas and chairs are all on-site, and snorkeling gear is available to rent. US$5. http://www.cornwallbeachja.com.

Dead End Beach This beach is located where Kent Avenue dead-ends near the airport. The narrow strip of sand is more exposed than the public beaches in town but a lot less crowded. Its waters are part of the Montego Bay Marine Park, so take your snorkeling gear, bottled water and a snack: There are no facilities or concessions. Also be aware that there are no lifeguards. There is a tiny strand where photographers and aviation aficionados go to watch jets take off and land.

Doctor's Cave Beach This is MoBay's most popular beach, located north of the city center. The white sand is fine, the waters are safe for swimming and there are several tree-shaded restaurants and bars. The waters are reported to have healing powers and are fed by an underground system of streams. You can also snorkel in the underwater park along a coral reef that you can swim to from the beach. Families tend to go on Sunday, along with cruise-ship passengers. Admission is US$5. Rental of snorkeling equipment is US$5. Off Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-2566. http://www.doctorscavebathingclub.com.

Walter Fletcher Beach A relaxing city oasis facing the Hip Strip, the beach is a compact cove with calm, kid-friendly water and ample shade.

Bird Watching Rocklands Bird Sanctuary This world-famous birding site was the lifework of the renowned late ornithologist Lisa Salmon. More than 100 species of native and migratory birds have been spotted, including Jamaica's national bird, the doctor bird (or streamertail hummingbird). Visitors are given hand-feeders that attract the tiny doctor birds. Be sure to take a camera (and extra memory and batteries) as the photo ops are awesome. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Tours start as early as 7 am and should be arranged in advance. The best time to feed the birds is between 3 pm and dusk, when they flock in. US$8. Near Anchovy, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-2009.

Boating & Sailing The sea is rough outside the protected bays and coves, so no one rents powerboats or large sailboats. For fun in the bay, try a small Sunfish, available for rent at all major beaches (US$30 per hour). Party cruises are offered by several boat operators. Because the lineup of companies is subject to change, contact the Jamaica Tourist Board for current information on tour operators and trips. Phone 876-952-4425. If you want to observe marine life, book a glass-bottomed-boat tour from any of the main beaches and sail out to the airport reefs for around US$30 per half-hour. If you are feeling adventurous, try a trip in a semisubmersible vessel that takes you 10 ft/6.5 m underwater. In Falmouth, about 25 mi/40 km east of Montego Bay, you can go rafting on the Martha Brae River. It's a relaxing way to experience the tropical rain forest. (Wear clothes that can take a good soaking.) Open 9 am-5 pm. Two per raft US$55. Trip lasts one and a half hours. Contact River Raft Limited at 876-952-0889. Another option is Mountain Valley Rafting, west of Montego Bay, which takes you on a ride down the tranquil Great River, stopping for a swim whenever you like. Open 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Two per raft US$45. Trip lasts one hour. Phone 876-956-4920. Calico Sailing & Undersea Tours This company is a popular choice for an outing. The pirate ships Calico A and Calico B are wooden, gaff-rigged, semisubmersible schooners. Daily except Wednesday. Day sail US$60 10 am-1 pm. Sunset sail US$40 5-7 pm. Tours sail from Pier 1, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-5860. http://www.calicojamaica.net.

Dreamer Catamaran Cruises Cornwall Beach is the departure point for a sail on one of three catamarans—Tropical Dreamer, Day Dreamer and Island Dreamer. Tours offered include a three-hour "Sail and Snorkel" cruise, which includes an open bar and snorkeling instruction, or a two-hour "Champagne Sunset Sail & Dinner" that departs the beach at 5 pm. US$65 per person, including transfers from nearby resorts. Phone 876- 979-0102. http://www.dreamercatamarans.com.

Montego Bay Yacht Club Private charters for groups can be arranged. Happy hour at the bar is the local favorite for sunset viewing and frosty beer. Phone 876-979-8038. http://www.mobayyachtclub.com.

Fishing As the sportsfishing capital of Jamaica, MoBay has plenty of fishing boats. The tours operating fishing trips are required to have licenses. For a list of boats currently operating trips, contact the Jamaica Tourist Board office. Phone 876-952-4425. No Problem At Pier 1 at the Marina, half- and full-day charters can be arranged. Boats are equipped to reel in big game fish. US$360-$690. Phone 876-381-3229.

Salty Angler Fishing Charters Also at Pier 1, half- and full-day charters offer fly and light tackle fishing plus lessons. Phone 876-863- 1599.

Golf Several championship courses lure dedicated golfers to Montego Bay. Half Moon Golf Club Although not as dramatic as competing courses, this course still offers golfers a challenge, especially when the trade winds are blowing. Open daily 7 am-6 pm. Greens fees US$130. Cart and caddie are available at additional cost. Rose Hall, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-2560. http://halfmoon.rockresorts.com.

The Wyndham Rose Hall Resort and Country Club This Cinnamon Hill course with ocean views played host to the prestigious Jamaica Open for several years. Open daily 7:30 am-6 pm. Greens fees range US$110-$145 for guests not staying at the hotel. Rose Hall, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-2650. http://www.rosehallresort.com.

Tryall Golf, Tennis and Beach Club The course at this club is deceptively challenging. Open daily 8 am-5 pm. Greens fees US$125 for nonguests. North Coast Highway (30 minutes west of Montego Bay), Montego Bay. Phone 876-956- 2650. http://www.tryallclub.com.

White Witch If you're a golfer looking for a course with lots of character, White Witch's mountainside setting and deep ravines make for some challenging shots. The impressive clubhouse houses a restaurant upstairs. Also a pro shop. Open daily 6 am-9 pm. Greens fees for nonguests range US$130-$175 depending on the season. Rose Hall, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-2800 or 876-518-0174. http://www.whitewitchgolf.com.

Horseback Riding Braco Stables Located 32 mi/52 km east of Montego Bay, this family-owned stable offers bareback riding along the beach at sunset and provides guides for tours through the countryside and along the northwest coast of the Caribbean Sea. Phone 876-954-0185. http://www.bracostables.com.

Double A Ranch Take a leisurely ride through the Jamaican countryside on gentle horses that trot through quaint villages and on mountain trails. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm. Phone 876-952-6261.

Good Hope Country House This company offers horseback riding amid sensational surroundings. The 90-minute rides go past historic buildings and a river. Open daily except Wednesday. US$50 by reservation only. On the edge of Cockpit Country, Falmouth. Phone 876-610-5798 or 876-469-3444 for reservations. http://www.goodhopejamaica.com.

Rocky Point Stables at Half Moon Equestrian Center, This facility offers a variety of horseback-riding excursions. The two most popular outings are a beach ride and a beginners' ride. Long pants are required (wear a swimsuit underneath if you're taking the beach ride). Monday-Saturday 7 am-5 pm. 90-minute beach ride is US$70, offered at 7 am and 4 pm. Beginners' ride is US$50, offered at 10 and 11 am, and 3 pm. Lessons range US$50-$80. Pony rides for children older than 6 are US$20. Adjoining the Half Moon Beach, Golf & Tennis Resort, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-2286. http://www.horsebackridingjamaica.com.

Scuba & Snorkeling You can snorkel from the beaches along Gloucester and Kent avenues or in the Montego Bay Marine Park, a protected area off the eastern shore containing mangroves and seagrass beds, as well as coral reefs. Equipment is available for rent in area dive shops. Boats also take snorkelers to nearby reefs. Expect to pay about US$30-$60 for a boat excursion, including equipment. Prices vary greatly between high season (December-April) and low season (May-November). Scuba diving outlets can be found on each of the three major beaches. Two local dive resorts are the Cariblue Hotel & Seaworld Dive Centre (phone 876-953-2022) at Ironshore and the Reading Reef Club (phone 876-952-7217) at Reading, about 4 mi/7 km west of Montego Bay. Most all-inclusive resorts have their own facilities. The Jamaica Tourist Board or any of its information booths can advise you of choices for snorkeling or scuba diving (phone 876-952-4425). Deal only with established operators. For advanced divers, The Point, north of the airport, is the ultimate wall dive because of the dense corals and fish, sharks and rays that are fed by the clear waters. Airport Reef, on the southwest edge of the airport, is considered the best site on the island with masses of coral canyons, caves, tunnels and the wreck of a DC-3 aircraft. You must be a certified diver and present your certification to rent equipment and go on a standard scuba outing. Introductory "resort course" scuba lessons are available to those with no experience and cost around US$80. They include limited instruction and a supervised dive. Some cruise ships also arrange classes for beginners—check with your shore-excursion staff if you're arriving by ship. Rhapsody Cruises This company offers two three-hour sailing and snorkeling cruises daily aboard the Tropical Dreamer (53 ft/16 m) and Island Dreamer (65 ft/20 m) catamarans. Open Monday-Saturday. Sailing times are usually 10 am-1 pm and 3-6 pm. US$65 per person, including equipment rental. Phone 876-979- 0102. http://www.dreamercatamarans.com.

Spas and Health Clubs Harmony Gardens On the second floor of the Montego Bay Club Hotel and directly across the street from Doctors Cave Beach, this wellness spa offers a range of treatments from acupuncture and reflexology to Swedish and Thai massage. Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay. Phone 876-940-6641.

Surfing Although the bay is fairly sheltered from winds, MoBay has some great sailboard activity, especially along the north shore. Doctor's Cave, Cornwall and Walter Fletcher beaches have watersports shops. The beach hotels in the area also rent equipment. A deposit may be required. Tropical Beach Water Sports Windsurfing equipment and Jet Ski rentals. Instructor on staff. Open daily 9 am-5 pm. Prices range US$45-$120 per hour. Next to Sandals, Montego Bay. Phone 876-940-0836.

Tennis & Racquet Sports You can play tennis at most major hotels for a small fee. Call ahead to reserve a court. Day passes are available from Sandals Montego Bay for US$85, good 10 am-6 pm (phone 876-952-5510). Half Moon offers a day pass for US$45, depending on occupancy level. The day pass does not include meals and ends at 5 pm (phone 876-953-2211). Nightlife Most nocturnal activity centers around Gloucester Avenue—the Hip Strip—where music, dancing, satellite TV, live entertainment, food and drink mingle in a lively, street-festival setting. There are street parties on most Monday nights. Friday and Saturday are the liveliest nights in the discos. You can purchase evening passes at many of the all-inclusive resorts and enjoy the entertainment there, along with plenty of food and drinks. Passes cost about US$80 per person and are usually valid 6 pm-2 am. Bars, Taverns & Pubs Blue Beat On the Hip Strip, this trendy bar has a mellow menu of jazz and a potent menu of martinis such as the Lady Sings the Blues (ample quantities of vodka, lime and Sprite). Phone 876-952-9609.

Margaritaville Sports Bar & Grill This place has theme nights (including wet T-shirt contests) and serves 52 different margarita varieties, plus lunch and dinner options that include the famous Cheeseburger in Paradise. There are TVs all around the several bars, and a 110-ft/34-m waterslide that snakes from the rooftop terrace to spill patrons into the bay. A DJ spins sounds at night, occasional live music is hosted, and at times the partying can get a little wild—especially during spring break. Several resorts offer shuttles to the Hip Strip that drop tourists off at Margaritavilla and return them to the resorts. Daily 11 am (7 am when cruise ships are in port) till the last patrons leave. There is no entrance fee during the day. An entrance fee is charged in the evenings ranging from US$10-$25 depending on the night. Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-4777. http://www.margaritavillecaribbean.com.

Royal Stocks This bar has all the atmosphere of an English pub. It offers good pub grub, including soup, sandwiches and a pasta special. The house special is blackened snapper. Drinks, soccer on TV, darts and occasional live jazz. Open daily 10 am-10 pm. Shop 11, Half Moon Shopping Village, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-9770.

Twisted Kilt Pub Every night is ladies night at this Hip Strip hangout with an Irish pub vibe and two-for-one martinis 6- 9 pm. Pub fare includes burgers, fish-and-chips and chicken wings. Sports fans can watch the latest sporting events on the big-screen TVs, including NFL, MLB and NBA games. Open 11 am-2 am. Phone 876-952-9488. http://twistedkiltcaribbean.com.

Dance & Nightclubs Witches Nightclub For nightclub entertainment, try this place. It occasionally features local and international artists, and the disco is always one of the hottest weekend scenes around. Open 9 pm-2 am. Nonguests of the hotel can buy a pass for US$95, which allows all-inclusive privileges at the nightclub including the buffet and all the drinks and dancing you can handle. Ironshore (at the Holiday Inn SunSpree), Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-2485.

Other Options The Coral Cliff Hotel and Entertainment Resort This place has live entertainment six nights a week. The gaming lounge and Rum Jungle Cafe and Bar is a 24-hour facility, and the lounge has slot machines with jackpots in U.S. dollars. There is also a small cabaret and special acts are hosted. The decor resembles an African jungle, complete with plastic animal heads on the walls. No cover charge. Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952- 4130. http://www.coralcliffjamaica.com/night.htm.

Performing Arts The performing arts are vital to Jamaican culture, with concerts, dance, theater and poetry readings staged at churches, community centers and resorts. Check the local newspapers for listings and schedules. Many performances coincide with the festivals, including the Air Jamaica Blues and Jazz Festival held in January and the Reggae Sumfest in July. Theater The Fairfield Theatre Founded in 1975, this is a great venue to catch the latest plays and performances. Fairfield Road, Montego Bay. Phone 876-876-0182.

Other Options The Outameni Experience This attraction in Trelawny uses music, art, dance, film, drama and Jamaican cuisine to chronicle 500 years of history. The Taino Indian term means come together and reflects the island's motto: "Out of Many, One People." Exhibits include a slave ship simulation, tributes to Rasta and reggae, and a tour through the historic Orange Grove Great House. This is a popular shore excursion and is also sold in most hotels. Tours start at 10 am and run every half hour until 3 pm. Prices vary depending on day of tour and size of group. In Coopers Pen, Trelawny (opposite the Starfish Trelawny Resort, 18 mi/29 km from the airport), Montego Bay. Phone 876-954-4035. http://www.outameni.com.

Spectator Sports There is football off the highway at the UDC playfield, as well as league basketball at Jarrett Park on Humber Avenue. There are also games of cricket, football and baseball played in parking lots and schoolyards. Players are often happy to have spectators on hand, but ask before snapping any photographs. Shopping Although you can buy anything from electronics to spices in the duty-free stores, better bargains are found in Montego Bay's craft markets. Look for stores selling Jamaican items such as sauces, spices, jams, jellies, rum, Blue Mountain Coffee, cigars and herb teas. Works by Jamaican artists and craftspeople are delightful. Look for paintings, sculpture, relief carvings, pottery, carved furniture, hand-turned wooden bowls, jewelry crafted from coconut shells, woven straw and banana-leaf items, cutwork embroidery, brilliant fabrics and clothing. There's a range of stores in the cruise-ship terminal and the adjoining Montego Freeport Shopping Centre. Most of the shops there are branches of downtown stores, such as Cardow's (a duty-free shop), Ruth Clarage (original clothing and ceramic jewelry), Gemini and Casa de Oro. Lady Bird Souvenir Shoppe and Harry's Art and Craft Gallery are independents. We found port prices to be about the same as those in town. Other options include Gloucester Avenue, which is lined with small strip malls. Several of the hotels on the beach have duty-free shops, but better prices are found in the malls and in the stores on the Hip Strip. You'll encounter many enthusiastic vendors no matter where you go, whether you're actively shopping or not. If you aren't interested, a firm "No, thank you" should suffice. If you do see something you like, expect to bargain: It is a time-honored tradition, always conducted with humor and mutual respect. Never pay the first asking price for anything. Prices are marked in either Jamaican or U.S. dollars, although U.S. currency usually will secure a better price as vendors covet American money. Always establish the currency up front. Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm (Thursday till 1 pm). Galleries Decor Gallery This gallery displays works by Jamaican artists, both prints and originals on canvas and paper. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Shop 11, St. James Place (across from Breezes on Gloucester Avenue), Montego Bay.

Gallery of West Indian Art For original Jamaican artwork, as well as Cuban and Haitian, don't miss this gallery, which has two retail outlets in Montego Bay and wholesalers throughout the Caribbean and the U.S. Open Monday- Friday 9 am-5 pm. 11 Fairfield Road, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-4547. http://www.galleryofwestindianart.com.

Markets Fort and the Fantasy Craft Markets These craft markets are open daily 8 am-7 pm. (The nearby Fustic Street Market is best avoided unless you're part of an organized tour.) Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay.

Fort Montego Crafts Market This market offers the best in local straw, wood and leather products. At the southern end of Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay.

Montego Bay Craft Market This market, the largest in Montego Bay, is packed with straw and wicker, belts, clothing, jewelry and wood carvings at very reasonable prices. Daily 7 am-7 pm. Harbour Street, Montego Bay.

Shopping Areas Half Moon Shopping Village This is an upscale shopping complex with several good restaurants and duty-free stores selling jewelry, leather and cosmetics. Next to Half Moon Beach, Golf & Tennis Resort, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-3946.

Shoppes at Rose Hall Approximately 30 retail stores cater to the high-end shopper looking for jewelry, designer clothing and resort wear. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday till 2 pm. North Coast Highway (opposite Rose Hall Great House), Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-3245.

The City Centre Shopping Mall This mall offers the finest in duty-free merchandise, including jewelry, crystal, perfumes, leather goods, linens and electronic equipment. You can also purchase Blue Mountain Coffee and cigars there. Fort Street (north of downtown), Montego Bay.

Specialty Stores Casa de Oro A wide selection of duty-free watches, diamonds, emeralds, gold chains, rings, pendants and bracelets as well as fragrances, eyewear and leather accessories. Second location in Montego Bay at 23 Halfmoon Village (phone 876-953-9755). 36 City Centre, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-3502. http://www.casadeoro.com.

Irie Creations This shop is a good bet for quality native arts and crafts. City Centre Mall, Montego Bay.

Jamaica Bobsled Cafe In the middle of the Hip Strip (with other locations at the airport), this watering hole has a gift shop that sells clothing, jewelry, CDs and art. Open daily 10 am-2 am. 69 Gloucester Ave., Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-1448.

Jamaica Farewell This store carries a wide selection of both imported and local liquor and cigars at reasonable prices. Open daily 7 am-10 pm. (If there are no international flights, the store closes earlier). Located in the Sangster International Airport and the Cruise Ship terminal, Montego Bay. Phone 876-979-1069.

Jewels & Time This shop is an authorized dealer for Philip Stein watches, Hearts on Fire diamonds, John Hardy jewelry and timepieces by Ernst Benz and Maurice LaCroix. There is a second location in the Shoppes at Rose Hall. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm. 32 City Centre, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-3261. http://www.jewelsandtime.com.

Klass Kraft This is the best place to find leather sandals and key rings. Open 9 am-5 pm. 44 Fort St., Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-5782.

Swiss Stores Ltd. This shop is the Montego Bay branch of the store in Kingston where Swiss-born merchant Rudolf Wackerlin sold the first Rolex watch in Jamaica in 1935. Today there are four locations including one in Shoppes at Rose Hall. Phone 876-953-9274. http://www.swissstoresjamaica.com.

The Presita Shop This store sells jewelry, watches and fragrances. Open 9 am-5 pm. Located downtown, on St. James Street in the City Centre Building, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-3261.

Things Jamaican This place sells native arts and crafts, including items made from wood and ceramic. Fort Street, Montego Bay. Phone 876-979-1929 or 876-971-0775. http://www.thingsjamaicanshopping.com.

Itinerary Day Trips To Appleton. This inland town is the home of Appleton Estate (phone 876-963-9215), where one of Jamaica's leading rums is made. You can tour the distillery, watch a video showing how sugarcane is transformed into rum and sample the goods. Several tour companies offer excursions that include the Appleton Estate. Tours cost US$25. Lunch is a separate charge. It is recommended that you call at least 24 hours before your tour to make lunch arrangements. The adjacent gift shop is worth a look with its large variety of rum-themed souvenirs. Tours are offered Monday-Saturday 9 am-3:30 pm (closed public holidays). To Falmouth. This former sugar port is past its prime but remains a charming, unspoiled example of a Jamaican fishing village. It is busiest during the market on Wednesday. Attractions include the Victorian market and the parish church, which was built in 1796. You'll see several examples of Georgian architecture along Market Street west of the town center (near Water Square), including the mansion built by the family of Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Attractions in the surrounding area include raft trips on the Martha Brae River and tours of Cockpit Country, a spectacularly scenic region of dramatic limestone hummocks and deep ravines. The unique landscape is best explored from Good Hope Country House, an 18th-century great house set atop a hillock overlooking a plantation of sugarcane and tropical fruits. A mile/kilometer east of Falmouth, Luminous Lagoon is a bioluminescent bay that appears to glow in the dark thanks to small phosphorescent animals that live in the lagoon. Evening cruises depart at 7 pm from the Glistening Waters Marina. US$20 per person, which includes one drink. To book a tour contact Jamaica Tours at 876-953-3700. Local Tours If the ship-sponsored excursions are full or if you prefer to arrange your own guided tour, there are several reputable tour operators in Montego Bay. If you book your own tour, you might save a few dollars—but keep in mind that it will take some time to contact the operators, comparison shop and make a booking. Most of the island tours offered are similar to those arranged by cruise ships. Prices may vary. Caribic Vacations This company provides day tours to attractions in various parishes across the island. Trips include the beautiful Y.S. Falls on the south coast, the Bob Marley Museum in Kingston and rafting on the Rio Grande. 1310 Providence Drive, Ironshore, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-9879 or 876-953-9895. http://caribicvacations.com.

Chukka Caribbean Tours If you're seeking thrills and spills on your vacation, this company offers several options, including horseback ride 'n' swim tour, jungle river tubing, a Jeep adventure, ATV safari, kayaking and a canopy tour, all of which put you in contact with the natural beauty of Jamaica. Shop 5, Freeport Shopping Centre (most hotels sell Chukka tours), Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-5619 or 877-424-8552. http://www.chukkacaribbean.com.

Jamaica Co-operative Automobile & Limousine Tours Ltd. This company provides group transfers and shuttle service. Open daily 9 am-5 pm. 80-B Claude Clarke Ave., Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-7574. http://www.jcaltours.com/mobay_tours.html.

Jamaica Tours Limited Jamaica Tours Limited provides tours to all major attractions, as well as other out-of-the-way attractions all across the island. Tours include MoBay's golf courses, Rose Hall Great House and a half- day to Dunn's River Falls in Ocho Rios. 1207 Providence Drive, Rose Hall, Ironshore, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-3700. http://www.jamaicatoursltd.com.

John's Hall Adventure Tours This company provides tours that include a farm tour and a tour of Montego Bay. Open daily 9 am-2 pm. US$60 includes transportation and lunch. 26 Hobbs Ave., White Sands Beach, Montego Bay. Phone 876-971-7776, or 305-351-9496 in the U.S. http://johnshalladventuretour.com.

JUTA Tours Provides group transfers from the airport and a variety of tours, including a Montego Bay Highlight tour that stops at the Rose Hall Great House. Open daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 80-B Claude Clarke Ave., Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-0813. http://www.jutatoursnegrilltd.com.

Sunholiday Travel and Tours This transportation provider takes upwards of four guests to any requested destination. Open daily 9 am-5 pm. Holiday Village, Rose Hall, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-2837.

Tropical Tours Offers day trips to Cuba from Montego Bay including champagne and snacks in-flight and sightseeing and shopping in Santiago. It also arranges for Cuban visas. Phone 876-952-0400. http://www.tropicaltours-ja.com.

Day Plans To help you make the most of your time in Montego Bay, we've designed two different itineraries for visitors. PLAN A A Beach and a Witch Take a taxi to Doctor's Cave Beach for a refreshing swim. You can rent snorkeling equipment or take a glass-bottomed-boat ride to explore the offshore reef. Treat yourself to a midmorning repast of fresh mango or pineapple at one of the beachfront stands. Duck into the shopping plazas and little shops along Gloucester Avenue or find a cafe for lunch. (Note: Opportunistic pickpockets occasionally operate on the streets and beaches, so carry your gear in a zippered tote or pocket, and keep your eyes open and your valuables out of sight.) Take a taxi to Rose Hall, the elegant 1770s plantation house east of town that's famous for its reputedly murderous mistress, Annie Palmer. There's a cozy pub and a good gift shop to inspect after the narrated tour. PLAN B Birds and Buildings Make a call to Rocklands Bird Sanctuary where Fritz Beckford has been ruling the roost for more than two decades. He entertains with limitless trivia about the national doctor bird with its noteworthy black crest and tail that resemble the top hat and long coats doctors wore in the old days. Then hire a taxi and set off for the preserve. After touring the property, head back to Montego Bay and have lunch at Marguerite's or the Pork Pit. Afterward, see the sights downtown, preferably on an organized tour. If you want to try it on your own, start at Sam Sharpe Square and make your way to the Old Court, St. James Parish Church and the unusual Gallery of West Indian Art. Several local eateries and bakeries dot the streets. If you have time for some shopping, visit the Montego Bay Crafts Market. If you'd like to see the sunset from the beach, it's just a short walk to Walter Fletcher Beach. DINING Dining Overview The two restaurant strips in Montego Bay are Gloucester Avenue, on the waterfront, and Queen's Drive, on the hillside overlooking Montego Bay and the harbor (a spectacular view, but you pay for it). Prices are generally moderate compared with much of the rest of the Caribbean, although lobster will lighten your wallet. Many restaurants provide free transportation for dinner guests. You can request this service when you make your reservation—ask about the dress code, too. Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50. Local & Regional Butterflake Pastries An authentic local spot famous for homemade meat-and-vegetable patties and delectable sweets. $. Cash only. 2 Union St., Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-0070.

Day-O Plantation Restaurant & Bar In a house on a former sugar plantation, Day-O serves wonderful Jamaican food, with plantation-style chicken, seafood, vegetarian dishes and other specialties. It's a popular venue for wedding receptions. Live music nightly. Transportation from Montego Bay hotels provided. Open daily except Monday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Barnett Estate Plantation, west of town on Highway A1, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-1825. http://www.dayorestaurant.com.

Jamaica Bobsled Cafe Try the spicy jerk burger or the shrimp pizza at this popular Hip Strip hangout that stays open until 2 am and delivers to the resorts. A second location is in the airport departure hall. $. Most major credit cards. 69 Gloucester Ave., Montego Bay. Phone 876-940-7009.

Ma Lou's Gourmet Food Shack This restaurant features upscale Caribbean cuisine that's not too spicy and is made with ingredients that change with the seasons. It only seats 35, so reservations are advisable, and it has an enviable reputation for repeat guests. Open daily for dinner. $$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Coral Cliff Hotel & Entertainment Resort, 165 Gloucester Ave. (across from Margaritaville), Montego Bay. Phone 876- 952-4130. http://www.coralcliffjamaica.com/dining.htm.

Marguerite's You can dine formally on Jamaican and international seafood at Marguerite's (the chef's flambe grill is a highlight). Views of the Caribbean Sea are divine. Free transportation provided. Open daily for dinner only. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-4777.

MoBay Proper This is a great place to just relax, have a beer, play some pool or sample jerk chicken, pork or fish. Both locals and tourists enjoy this local food joint. Open daily for lunch, dinner and late-night. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 44 Fort St. (at the beginning of the Hip Strip), Montego Bay. Phone 876-940- 1233. Native Restaurant The Boonoonoonoos (patois for plentiful) platter is chockablock with curried goat, lip-searing jerk chicken, ackee with salt fish and golden-brown plantains. Open to the breeze on a veranda overlooking the Hip Strip, it raises liming with the locals to a fine art. Highly recommended for local food and local vibe. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 29 Gloucester Ave., Montego Bay. Phone 876- 979-2769.

Nyam 'n Jam Next to the downtown craft market, this local favorite serves authentic Jamaican lunch and dinner such as jerk meat, cow foot and oxtail. $. Cash only. 17 Harbour St., Montego Bay. Phone 876-952- 1922.

Robbie Joseph's Seahorse Grill at Montego Bay Yacht Club The views are ridiculously fabulous and are the perfect backdrop for the seafood-centric menu. The wings & Red Stripe special on Tuesday and the international buffet on Friday attract feisty sailors who watch the sun sink below the horizon as if they were seeing it for the first time. $$$. Most major credit cards. Freeport Peninsula, Sunset Drive, Montego Bay. Phone 876-979-8038.

Rosella Bistro at Wexford Grill This MoBay institution is frequented by local families. It specializes in surf and turf. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $-$$$. Most major credit cards. Wexford Court Hotel, 39 Gloucester Ave., Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-6673. http://thewexfordhotel.com.

Scotchies This no-frills roadside eatery serves up a bonanza of roasted breadfruit, frosty Red Stripe beer, and chicken, fish and pork blackened to perfection in a marinade of Scotch bonnet peppers. Umbrellas shade the communal wooden tables and beer keg stools. $. Visa accepted, cash preferred. Coral Gardens Main Highway, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-8041.

The Pork Pit A good choice for spicy Jamaican jerk pork, fish or chicken in a lively setting. This informal eatery with indoor and outdoor seating is located on the Hip Strip. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Accepts Visa and MasterCard only. 27 Gloucester Ave., Montego Bay. Phone 876-940-3008.

The Royal Stocks Traditional pub fare includes Irish potato soup and bangers-and-mash. $$. Most major credit cards. Half Moon Village, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-9770.

Town House by the Sea Located on the Hip Strip, this is a favorite with visiting celebrities. It is located at the Casa Blanca Hotel and offers both indoor and outdoor dining. Serves Caribbean specialties, including a variety of seafood and vegetarian dishes. The fish in parchment is highly recommended. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, daily for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Located on Gloucester Avenue (next to Doctor's Cave Beach), Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-5584.

Cuisines American The Brewery The relaxed, publike atmosphere is a great setting for burgers, salads and sandwiches, as well as some Jamaican dishes. Thursday is karaoke night. Daily for lunch, dinner and late night. Lunch buffet noon-3:30 pm. $$. Gloucester Avenue (in the Miranda Ridge Plaza), Montego Bay. Phone 876-940- 2433.

Asian Akbar This Indian restaurant serves excellent food in an air-conditioned dining room with tasteful Indian decor. Thai food is also served, and there is a pleasant garden area. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Half Moon Shopping Village, Montego Bay. Phone 876-953-8240.

Dragon Court This restaurant offers a range of Cantonese specialties. There is also a sushi bar. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Sushi bar open Wednesday-Saturday for dinner, Sunday for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Located at the Fairview Shopping Center, Montego Bay. Phone 876-979- 8822.

Mexican Chilitos This is the family-run Montego Bay location of the Kingston Mexican restaurant. It's on the Hip Strip, and the spicy menu of "Jamexican" specialties includes the signature 12-in/30-cm burritos. Wireless Internet access is available. Open Monday-Thursday 11 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday until midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 2 Gloucester Ave. (entrance is through the Vista Ambassador Hotel), Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-4615.

Seafood Groovy Grouper On the Hip Strip, this waterfront eatery excels with a seafood menu that includes just-caught lobster and fresh fish. The bar is lively during happy hour with a local crowd of businesspeople and savvy tourists. Open 9 am-1:30 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Gloucester Avenue (down from Doctor's Cave Beach, on the same side of the street), Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-3680.

Houseboat Grill International Restaurant Dine on the water on this picturesque houseboat on Bogue Lagoon. It's decorated in a lively motif. The creative fusion menu, which changes frequently, is dominated by seafood, with a few Jamaican meat dishes. The bar draws hipsters for the two-for-one happy hour 5:30-7 pm. Open daily for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Accepts Visa and MasterCard only. Freeport Road, Montego Bay. Phone 876-979-8845. http://www.thehouseboatgrill.com.

Pelican This longtime favorite serves seafood and Jamaican specialties at bargain prices. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $. Most major credit cards. Gloucester Avenue, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-3171.

Pier 1 on the Waterfront At Pier 1 you can choose to dine on a covered deck or the rooftop terrace. Downstairs the facility's seats are hewn from barrels. The extensive menu has seafood specialties. Seafood Sunday starts at 5 pm and allows customers to purchase fresh seafood from the open market, then have the meal prepared by the chef. At night, this place turns into an energetic club scene, with disco and live dance music. Wednesday night features a fashion and talent show, Friday is disco night and Sunday night offers live bands. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Howard Cook Boulevard, Montego Bay. Phone 876-940-5408. http://www.pieronejamaica.com.

SECURITY Personal Safety With an economy that depends on tourism, locals tend to be friendly and approachable. Unlike Kingston, which reports occasional incidents of mayhem, Montego Bay is a safe city. Crimes against tourists are virtually nonexistent: The resorts have security around the clock, and police patrol the Hip Strip with mobile monitors and closed-circuit cameras. The downtown district is safest for tourists during the day. A polite "No, thank you," is generally all that's necessary to those who offer to braid your hair or sell you T-shirts. Leave airline tickets and passports in the hotel safe, hire only JUTA-operated taxis (Jamaica Union of Travelers Association) and, contrary to urban legend, marijuana is illegal for use or export. Exercise the same commonsense precautions you would in any city: Don't wear expensive jewelry, don't leave valuables in your rental car, and don't flash large quantities of cash. It's best to carry your belongings in a money belt or zippered tote. Don't walk alone on dark streets at night, don't pick up hitchhikers, and never go off with someone unknown to you. Health The tap water is safe to drink, although many tourists prefer to drink bottled water. The food in the resorts, restaurants and hotels that cater to tourists is safe. Local restaurant food is generally safe if it's freshly prepared and served hot. Consult with your physician about precautions if you plan to go outside the main tourist areas. A hepatitis A vaccination is recommended by many health agencies. Don't forget to take sunglasses, sunscreen, a hat and insect repellent (the mosquitoes can be vicious, but they don't carry malaria). Jamaica has no venomous snakes. The main hospital is Cornwall Regional Hospital at Mount Salem (phone 876-952-5100). Doctor's Hospital at Montego Bay Freeport is a private hospital (phone 876-979-8874)—it also operates a clinic at 90 Barnett St. (phone 876-952-2847). The Hope Medical Centre in Half Moon Shopping Center offers 24-hour care. The Montego Bay Hospital & Urology Centre is located at Mount Salem just outside the Cornwall Regional Hospital (phone 876-952-4511). Fontana Pharmacy is the largest pharmacy in town (phone 876-952-3860). For dental emergencies, call or visit the Montego Bay Dental Clinic on Dome Street. Phone 876-952- 2338 In an emergency, phone 110 for medical help or 119 for police. Disabled Advisory Entrances to some buildings and shopping facilities do have ramps, as do some sidewalks, but it is not the rule. The main transportation companies offer modified vehicles. Those who need information on handicapped access should contact the Jamaica Tourist Board. Phone 876-952-4425. Dos & Don'ts Don't openly display homosexual behavior, as some Jamaicans are homophobic. However, this is changing, and gay travelers are becoming increasingly welcome in the resort region and at upscale properties. Don't take unmarked taxis. The legitimate ones (JUTA taxis) have red license plates with PP and four numbers listed on them. Don't accept tours from just anyone; it's not safe. Do buy jerk chicken from the pan vendors; it's much better than the stuff in restaurants. Do check out the view of the city from Westgate Hills. Do learn a few phrases of Jamaican patois, so that when you nyam (eat) your bickle (food) and don't labrish (gossip) with friends, you can jam (hang out) on the beach with your likkle boonoonoonous (someone you love). Do enjoy a typical Jamaican breakfast of salt fish and ackee, a bright yellow tree-fruit. Add a side of callaloo and a dash of pepper sauce to kick-start your day. Do dance until dawn during Reggae Sumfest in July. This is the largest reggae music festival in the world and attracts thousand of revelers each summer. HOTELS Hotel Overview Montego Bay has a broad selection of places to stay, ranging from small guesthouses to deluxe all- inclusive resorts. In town, most hotels concentrate along Gloucester Avenue and atop Miranda Ridge, and guesthouses are mostly found closer to the airport, along Sunset Boulevard and Queen's Drive (Highway A1). Most of the all-inclusive resorts line the white-sand beaches of the Atlantic shoreline north and east of the airport. The most deluxe options, such as the Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall, Round Hill Hotel & Villas and The Tryall Club, are farther out. Montego Bay also has many rental villas tucked into their own private coves or nestling atop breeze- swept hills. Make sure to book accommodations far in advance. Hotel Listings

Phone: (1) 876-952-0720 Fax: (1) 876-952-1424 Toll Free: (1) Casa Blanca Beach Hotel Gloucester Ave [email protected] http://www.casablancajamaica.com 80 Guest Rooms Location: Beachfront Nearby Points of Interest:

Phone: (1) 876-953-9150 Fax: (1) 876-953-2244 Toll Free: (1) 877-232-3224 Coyaba Beach Resort & Club Mahoe Bay, Ironshore WestIndies [email protected] http://www.coyabaresortjamaica.com 50 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] Location: On a private beach Nearby Points of Interest: Rose Hall Great House (Historic Plantation) - 5 mi • Doctors Cave Bathing Club (Beach Club / Food) - 8 mi • Dunn's River Falls (Famous Waterfalls) - 30 mi

Phone: (1) 876-952-4355 Fax: (1) 876-952-5204 Toll Free: (1) 800-223-6510 Doctors Cave Beach Hotel Gloucester Ave Po Box 94 [email protected] http://www.doctorscave.com 82 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] Location: 1 mi north of airport, adjacent to beach, 1.5 mi to town Nearby Points of Interest: Doctors Cave Beach (Beach) - 1 blk • Rosehall Hall Great House (Great House) - 3 mi • Dunns River Falls (Eco Tour) - 60 mi

Phone: (1) 876-940-6116 Fax: (1) 876-940-6115 Toll Free: (1) 888-354-7326 El Greco Resort 11 Queen's Dr Po Box 1624 W I [email protected] http://www.elgrecojamaica.com 93 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s] Location: On a hillside plateau; 5 minutes from the beach Nearby Points of Interest: Rose Hall Great House (Great House) - 5 mi • Appleton Estate (Rum Factory) - 15 mi • Dunns River Falls (Falls) - 67 mi

Phone: (1) 876-953-2485 Fax: (1) 876-940-8426 Toll Free: (1) 888-288-6006 Holiday Inn SunSpree Resort Montego Bay Rose Hall [email protected] http://www.caribbeanhi.com/jamaica/ 518 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] Location: All inclusive beachfront resort featuring free kids and free WiFi Nearby Points of Interest: Rose Hall Great House - 5 mi

Phone: (1) 876-940-8010 Fax: (1) 876-940-8015 Toll Free: (1) 888-RIU-4990 Hotel Riu Montego Bay Mahoe Bay - Ironshore P.O. http://www.riu.com 681 Guest Rooms • Restaurant[s] Location: Located in Montego Bay, on Jamaica's northwest coast Nearby Points of Interest:

Phone: (1) 876-956-7050 Fax: (1) 876-956-7505 Toll Free: (1) 800-972-2159 Round Hill Hotel & Villas John Pringle Dr PO Box 64 [email protected] http://www.roundhill.com 110 Guest Rooms • 3 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] Location: 8 miles west of Montego Bay Nearby Points of Interest:

Phone: (1) 876-952-4340 Fax: (1) 876-971-3275 Toll Free: (1) Royal Decameron Montego Beach 2 Gloucester Ave [email protected] http://www.decameron.com/eng/jamaica/montego/overview.html 142 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] Location: 1 mi from downtown Montego Bay, N coast Nearby Points of Interest:

Phone: (1) 876-952-4140 Fax: (1) 876-952-6913 Toll Free: (1) 888-SANDALS Sandals Carlyle Kent Ave PO Box 412 [email protected] http://www.sandals.com/main/inn/in-home.cfm 52 Guest Rooms • 0 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] Nearby Points of Interest:

Phone: (1) 876-952-5510 Fax: (1) 876-952-0816 Toll Free: (1) 800-SANDALS Sandals Montego Bay North Kent Avenue St James [email protected] http://www.sandals.com/main/montego/mo-home.cfm 250 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] Location: Directly on the beach Nearby Points of Interest: Chukka Cove Jeep Safari • Martha Brae River Rafting • Shopping

Phone: (1) 876-953-2231 Fax: (1) 876-953-2788 Toll Free: (1) 888-SANDALS Sandals Royal Caribbean Rst & Pvt Island Mahoe Bay St James [email protected] http://www.sandals.com/main/royal/rj-home.cfm 197 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] Location: On private beach Nearby Points of Interest:

Phone: (1) 876-953-6600 Fax: (1) Toll Free: (1) 866-GO SECRETS Secrets St. James Montego Bay One Secrets Cove, Lot A59 Freeport [email protected] http://www.secretsresorts.com/ 330 Guest Rooms Location: Ideally located on the northwest coast of Jamaica. Nearby Points of Interest: Rose Hall Great House • Dunn's River Falls • Rick's Cafe Phone: (1) 876-953-6600 Fax: (1) Toll Free: (1) 866-GO SECRETS Secrets Wild Orchid Montego Bay Lot A59 Freeport [email protected] http://www.secretsresorts.com/ 330 Guest Rooms Location: Ideally located on the northwest coast of Jamaica Nearby Points of Interest: Bob Marley Experience & Theatre • Dunn's River Falls • Rick's Cafe

Phone: (1) 876-979-8800 Fax: (1) 876-979-8039 Toll Free: (1) Sunset Beach Resort & Spa Freeport PO Box 1168 [email protected] http://www.sunsetresorts-jamaica.com 430 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] Location: Beachfront Nearby Points of Interest: Matha Brae Rafting • Green Grotto Cave • Luminus Lagoon/ Plantations Tours

Phone: (1) 876-952-4370 Fax: (1) 876-952-6591 Toll Free: (1) Toby's Resort 1 Kent Ave [email protected] http://www.tobyresorts.com 65 Guest Rooms • 1 Meeting Room • Restaurant[s] Location: 5 min from airport Nearby Points of Interest: Dr Cave Beach (Beach) - 3 blk

Phone: (1) 876-956-5660 Fax: (1) 876-956-5673 Toll Free: (1) 800-238-5290 The Tryall Club Main Bay Rd Main St [email protected] http://www.tryallclub.com 96 Guest Rooms • 2 Meeting Rooms • Restaurant[s] Location: 35 min from Montego Bay, 1 hr from Negril & South Coast Nearby Points of Interest:

FACTS Geostats Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S. Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure. Population: 79,830. Languages: English, Jamaican patois. Predominant Religions: Christian (Protestant, Roman Catholic), Rastafarian. Time Zone: 5 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-5 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed. Voltage Requirements: 110 volts. 220-volt systems exist in some larger properties. Telephone Codes: 876, country code; Money Currency Exchange There are numerous full-service banks on Gloucester Avenue and in the city center, including the National Commercial Bank at 40 Market St. The closest bank to the cruise-ship terminal is in the Freeport Shopping Centre. There is an FX Trader at 37 Gloucester Ave. for currency exchange, open 9 am-5 pm Monday- Saturday (phone 888-991-2056). Banks on Gloucester Avenue include a branch of First Global Bank. Next to the Doctor's Cave Beach Club , there are ATMs operated by the National Commercial Bank and Canada's Scotiabank. There is a 24-hour money exchange bureau and a branch of the National Commercial Bank in the arrival hall at the airport. Western Union has branches at the Pelican restaurant on Gloucester Avenue and Church Street and in Overton Plaza at the top of Dome Street. The U.S. dollar is commonly accepted in Montego Bay, as are most major credit cards. However, we recommend carrying some Jamaican money for tips, beach fees and other incidentals. When you exchange currency, keep your receipt so that you can reconvert your cash on departure. Taxes Room tax is 8.25%; a 10% service charge is typical. Departure tax is US$27, included in most airline tickets. A 15% government general consumption tax (GCT) is applied to most goods and some services in Jamaica, including car rental, restaurants, entertainment and retail sales. Although this tax is included in the prices listed in most shops, note that GCT is generally added to the bill in restaurants. Tipping Most hotels and restaurants will include a 10%-15% service charge on your bill. A 10%-20% tip is considered normal. Weather Our favorite time (and everyone else's) is November-April—Jamaica can be very crowded then. The temperature is fairly stable year-round, so it's possible to visit in other months as well. Winter coastal- area day temperatures are in the 70s-80s F/23-32 C. June-September is usually in the 80s-90s F/30- 35 C. Nights tend to be 5-10 F/3-5 C degrees cooler everywhere. Temperatures in the hills and mountains are usually cooler than on the coast—take a sweater for nights. The hottest time is July- October, when the humidity, heat and hurricane possibilities are the highest. Most rain falls between May and October, but even then it generally comes in brief showers and seldom ruins anyone's vacation. Hurricane season is June-November. What to Wear Lightweight tropical clothing is preferable, with a shawl or light jacket for cool evenings. You may wish to wear long pants and sleeves to discourage mosquitoes. Beachwear is appropriate only at the beach —you should wear a cover-up when strolling in town (men, too). A hat and sunscreen are musts to avoid sunburn. Even the most casual restaurants expect shoes and a shirt, except those on the beach, where button- down and barefoot is the rule. Appropriate dinner dress is Caribbean chic. Formal resort restaurants require men to wear a jacket and tie. Be sure to take comfortable walking shoes for sightseeing. Business attire is fairly conservative—take a lightweight suit. Communication Telephone You can make long-distance calls from the public phones in Freeport Shopping Centre, but you'll need to purchase a phone card. International calls can be expensive. It's cheaper to call collect, use your calling card or buy an international calling card (available in varying denominations from most shopping centers). Phones are also available at Teleworld Services in Miranda Ridge Plaza off Gloucester Avenue. Most hotels offer direct-dial telephone services with a substantial service change; local businesses provide fax services for a fee. Cell-phone coverage is good everywhere in town. Main local providers are Digicel and Cable & Wireless. GSM cell phones equipped with tri-band or world-roaming service will find coverage throughout much of the coastal region. Cell service averages about US$1.50-$2 per minute, making prepaid SIM cards more economical for those planning to make many local calls. Prepaid SIM cards cost about US$60 and usually include a US$20 airtime credit. Cell phones are also available for rent. Internet Access Cyber Shores At Doctor's Cave Beach with a wireless network serving the beach area. US$8 for 60 minutes. Open 8 am-8:30 pm. Phone 876-971-1050.

Internet Place A downtown option for Internet access with rates generally lower than in the resort area. US$1.70 for 30 minutes. 11 Market St., Montego Bay. Phone 876-979-2460.

Jolly Rogers Sports Bar & Grill ADSL service provided. Customers can use their own computers. Open daily 8 am-2 am. US$3 for 15 minutes and US$6 for a half-hour. Shop 3, Casa Montego Arcade, Montego Bay. Phone 876-971-0058.

Mail & Package Services Many resorts will mail letters to the U.S. for guests staying at the property. The main post office is at the intersection of St. James Street and Meagre Lane. Open Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm. Phone 876- 952-7016. DHL pick-up and deliveries can be arranged, and FedEx has an office in the Chadwick Plaza. Phone 876-952-0411. Newspapers & Magazines The main local newspapers are the Jamaica Observer, Daily Gleaner, The Western Mirror and The North Coast Times. The publication Destination Jamaica is placed in larger hotel rooms. Jamaica Tourist is published quarterly and available free of charge at the airports and in most of the hotels and shops. Transportation Taxis are the best way to get around Montego Bay, and you'll have no trouble finding one. In fact, your main problem will be discouraging eager cabdrivers who offer their services when you don't need them. There is little or no public transportation serving downtown Montego Bay or the tourist strip on Gloucester Road, but it's easy to get around on foot. However, be prepared to be assailed by passing taxis and vendors: Just say "No" politely and go on your way. There is no in-town bus service; however, Montego Bay Metro Line buses travel to the suburbs, as do minibuses and route taxis. All depart and arrive at the transportation station near the junction of St. James and Barnett streets. Air Donald Sangster International Airport (MBJ) is 2 mi/3 km east of the city center. It is one of the island's two international airports and features shops and restaurants. (The other international airport is in Kingston and is the prime entry point for tourists who arrive by air.) As in all airports in major cities, keep a watch on your suitcase and wallet. Phone 876-952-3124. http://www.mbjairport.com. Taxis and rental cars are available at the airport. A taxi ride to the town center costs about US$10. Tourists unfamiliar with Montego Bay should avoid getting into a shared local taxi, even though it is a cheaper way to get into town. Car Rental cars tend to be expensive compared with other countries, and there's a 15% government tax. You must be at least 25 years old and have a valid driver's license to rent a vehicle. Definitely reserve in advance during peak season, although that may not be enough to guarantee you get a car. Supplies can run short. Make sure that the license number on your contract matches the one on your car— there have been incidents of plate-switching. Most of the major rental companies have offices in Montego Bay, and several are located at the airport and at the cruise-ship terminal. Driving is on the left. Roundabouts at major intersections can be confusing: Yield to all traffic coming from your right. Local drivers are often aggressive and freewheeling. Service stations are open daily and accept cash only. Island Car Rentals charges US$12-$40 per day plus US$12 insurance. Toll-free 866-978-5335. http://www.islandcarrentals.com. Public Transportation Route taxis are the way most people get around. Buses (usually minivans) also provide transportation from Montego Bay to other points in Jamaica. Prices are very reasonable, but expect cramped quarters, a loose schedule and some daredevil driving. The buses usually only depart after they've taken on a full load. Although they're by no means a luxurious way to get around, the buses will put you into contact with Jamaicans. They're probably best suited to adventurous and experienced travelers who don't mind roughing it. Taxi Before you get in a taxi, make sure it's licensed and insured: They have red plates with the letters PP (private passenger) before the numbers. Among the more reputable cabs are those operated by the Jamaica Union of Travellers Association, or JUTA (phone 876-952-0813). Taxis are not metered, so always agree on a fare, the currency to be used and the length of trip before getting in. It is common for drivers to drop you off at an attraction and return for you later. They are reliable about returning, but don't pay the full fare until the return trip. For More Information Tourist Offices Jamaica Tourist Board Open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Gloucester Avenue at Cornwall Beach, Montego Bay. Phone 876-952-4425. http://www.visitjamaica.com.

EVENTS Calendar Music and other cultural activities are a big part of Montego Bay's annual celebrations. In January, Montego Bay hosts the Air Jamaica Jazz and Blues Festival, featuring an eclectic lineup of favorite headliners, as well as upcoming stars (http://jamaicajazzandblues.com). Bob Marley Week takes place in early February (his birthday is 6 February) and includes concerts and lectures around the island. The Trelawny Yam Festival is an annual event spread out over a week leading up to the Easter weekend. Grand Yam Festival Day is held on Easter Monday and includes cultural celebrations, farmer competitions, dominoes tournament, best-dressed donkey contests and a Festival Village with vendors selling yam dishes and jerk. Phone 876-610 0818. Jamaica's Carnival starts on Easter Sunday (in March or April) and lasts one week. It includes parades, dances, reggae and calypso bands, flamboyant costumes, parties and children's parades. Reggae Sumfest in July is the largest reggae festival in the world. Book early as hotel rooms and flights sell out way in advance. http://www.reggaesumfest.com. Independence festivities take place in early August, and the Montego Bay Yacht Club Marlin Tournament is held in mid-September. It attracts anglers from Jamaica and abroad. The Yacht Club also hosts an Easter regatta, Jamaica Sailing Week in March or April (weather-dependent) and Jam- Am Yacht Race in December. Phone 876-979-8262. For more information about upcoming events in Montego Bay, contact the Jamaica Tourist Board. Phone 876-957-9314. http://www.visitjamaica.com. Additional event listings can be found at http://www.whatsonjamaica.com. NORTHSTAR Travel Media, LLC. ©2013 All rights reserved. | Terms of Use | Privacy.

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