C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS OCTOBER 2013 NO. 217 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
Destination St. Pierre: OLD PORT — NEW RULES
See story on page 16 MARC VERSTRAETE VAN DE WEYER OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s www.budgetmarine.com Leading Chandlery sandingorsealing. • Savetimecleaning,polishing, ofitscompetitors. • Moretorqueandpowerthanall POWER POLISHERKIT accessories. our wideselectionof and 220voltsalsoaskabout Fein Toolsareavailablein110 low levelsofdustproduction. the FEINMarinerangewiththeir compliment tothepowertoolsof rangearetheideal theFEINDustex vacuumcleanersof work.Thepowerful Lessmessmeansless Wet/Dry DustExtractor outstanding sander/polisher. faster andbetterwiththis Save yourback!Getthejobdone ARUBA CURAÇAO BONAIRE BONAIRE ST. THOMAS ST. THOMAS ST. CROIX ST. CROIX FEI/9202 TORTOLA NANNY CAY GRENADA GRENADA ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD ST. MARTIN ST. MAARTEN/ TRINIDAD FEI/WPO1415E US US STARTING AT: ANTIGUA STARTING AT: ANTIGUA $829.71 $419.13 we sell–anduse. working withtheproductsthat and shareourownexperiences are heretoansweryourquestions and dothejobsforyou,butwe won’t actuallycometoyourboat are heretohelp!Okay,sowe doing whileintheboatyard,we Regardless ofwhatjobyouare ANTIGUA •ARUBABONAIRECURAÇAOGRENADA •ST. CROIX•ST. MAARTEN•ST. MARTIN•ST. THOMAS•TORTOLATRINIDAD HOW TO... Caribbean DutyFreeListPrices.Checkyourlocalstoreforfinalpricing. TOWARDS YOURNEXTPURCHASEFOREVERY RECIEVE A$50GIFTCERTIFICATE $500 SPENTONTHESEINTERLUXPRODUCTS!
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for cash. * DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 The Caribbean Sky ...... 33 Business Briefs ...... 7 Book Review ...... 35 Eco-News ...... 11 Cooking with Cruisers.....36, 37 Regatta News...... 12 Readers’ Forum ...... 38 Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 30 Calendar of Events ...... 41 Island Poets ...... 30 Caribbean Market Place .....42 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 31 What’s On My Mind ...... 45 Salty’s Beat ...... 31 Classified Ads ...... 46 www.caribbeancompass.com Meridian Passage ...... 32 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46
OCTOBER 2013 • NUMBER 217 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia,
SOUTHERN YACHT CLUB DAVID MORGAN St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Editor...... Sally Erdle Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71 Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01 [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Panama: Distribution - Shelter Bay Marina www.shelterbaymarina.com Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Puerto Rico: Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer Olga Diaz de Peréz, Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282 [email protected] [email protected] Accounting...... Shellese Craigg St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat [email protected] Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720-8432 Hail, Colombia! Compass Agents by Island: [email protected] A perfect pit stop ...... 18 Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Tel (268) 720-6868, [email protected] Ad Sales & Distribution - Stéphane Legendre Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails Mob: + 590 690 760 100 Canal Lessons Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 [email protected] What Matira learned ...... 20 Colombia: Distribution - Marina Santa Marta St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution - Bryan Lezama www.igy-marinasantamarta.com/en Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao St. Vincent & the Grenadines: OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg Boat Backpackers [email protected] Tel: (784) 457-3409 Dominica: Ad Sales & Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970 The new sea nomads ...... 24 Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, POLLY PHILIPSON [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Distribution - Gladys Jones Tel: (284) 494-2830 Fax: (284) 494-1584 Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Venezuela: Ad Sales - Patty Tomasik Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] [email protected]
Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Havana Race, 1952 ©2013 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Desiderata excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Sailing into a coup ...... 14 Refit for an Alden ketch ...... 29 ISSN 1605 - 1998
Cover photo: Marc Verstraete’s portrait of quaint St. Pierre at sunset. At the northwestern end of Martinique, St. Pierre has long been an attractive stop for yachts
Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.
‘Caribbean Compass has proven to be the premier guide to yachting in the Caribbean… the magazine does a great job of keeping readers in-the-know on destinations, yachting news and trends.’ Christy Recaii, writer St. Lucia
Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 2:00 Monday throughFriday(closedforlunchfrom12:00 bars, supermarketsanddiveshops. on Carriacou.TyrrelBayisashelteredanchoragewithineasyreachofrestaurants, of thebay. Marine Boatyard&YachtClub(formerlyTyrrelBayHaulout)onthesouthside clearance officeisabrandnew,purpose-builtbuildinglocatedatCarriacou ies ofBuccooReef;thereforeextremecareshouldbetakenwhennavigatinginthis missing. Therearecurrentlynobuoysormarkersindicatingthepositionboundar- cate therearetwocardinalbuoysmarkingBuccooReef;bothofthesenow Point, chartedposition11°11.09N,60°51.12Whasdisappeared.Chartsgenerallyindi- Stickland ofStoreBayMarineServices,Tobago,saysthecardinalmarkeratPigeon sailors tothepositionofBuccooReefinTobagohasbeenreportedmissing.John space makingGrenadamoreattractivetovisitingyachts.” underway andateamislookingathowwecanprogresstowardssingleyachting yacht movement.TheimplementationoftheSailClearonlineclearancesystemis working togetheronaprojectfundedbytheCaribbeanDevelopmentBanktoease Department, GrenadaPortsAuthority,BoardofTourismandMAYAGare clearance system:“TheGovernmentofGrenada,GrenadaCustoms,Immigration Sutton, hasalsoissuedanupdateonGrenada’sparticipationintheSailClearonline chandlery stockingagoodselectionofIslandWaterWorldgoods. many servicesincludinghaulout,dockage,dinghydock,minimart,café/baranda &Updates Info Customs andImmigrationofficeopeninghoursarenormally8:00 Tyrrel BayisbetterprotectedthanHillsborough,theformerportofentryforyachts On August9thanewyachtclearanceofficeopenedinTyrrelBay,Carriacou.The Carriacou PortofEntryRelocatestoTyrrelBay As thisissueof Navigation NoticeforTobago For [email protected]. President oftheMarineandYachtingAssociationGrenada(MAYAG),Anita Carriacou Marine,thenewlocationforCustomsandImmigrationoffice,offers PM onweekendsandpublicholidays.Telephone(473)443-7273. [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands Compass goestopress,thelastremainingcardinalmarkeralerting 30 bidallegre voilerie dumarin Martinique New SpiceIslandMarina Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda PM to1:00 advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor PM ) and9:00 AM to4:00 Chaguramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama AM PM to Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding
CHRIS DOYLE is thenewestmemberofCMA Martinique, whichboaststheEasternCaribbean’slargestcharterfleetatLeMarin, yachting associationsandtheCMAhopestobesoonwelcomingthemonboard. association wastomakeanapplicationjointheCMA. well-known yachtagentinMartinique.Oneofthefirstactionsnewlyformed French islands. Caribbean countrytojointheMarineAssociationandfirstof formed MartiniqueYachtingAssociation(MYA)hasbecometheninthEastern unless forshelterfromahurricane. area, especiallyatnight. Several other islands in the Eastern Caribbean are endeavouring to form marine and Several otherislandsintheEasternCaribbeanareendeavouringtoformmarineand The MYAwasformedinJulythisyearunderthePresidencyofDouglasRapier,a John Duffy,PresidentoftheCaribbeanMarineAssociation,reports:Thenewly New CaribbeanMarineAssociationMember For [email protected]. Buccoo Reefisaprotectedmarineparkandyachtsshouldnotventureinsideit The matterhasbeenreportedtotherelevantauthorities. Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 a decade ago, that he had fond a decade ago, that he had , for a fun afternoon of snorkelling , for a fun afternoon of snorkelling Mary-Eliza Bobcat had arrived at Porlamar from St. Vincent & the Grenadines Porlamar from St. Vincent & had arrived at Mary-Eliza The largest city on the Venezuelan island of Margarita, Porlamar is often the clear- of Margarita, Porlamar is often on the Venezuelan island The largest city Sources say that Rob was the second foreign visitor murdered in Margarita in less than two months. visitor murdered in Margarita in less than two months. Rob was the second foreign the nearby island of Blanquilla said, “We talked to a A cruiser who recently visited Snorkelling Carriacou Campers Experience and Deefer Diving Carriacou join up to provide August 22nd saw Camp Kayak ance port for yachts coming from the Eastern Caribbean. Fulfilling the sea gypsies’ Caribbean. Fulfilling the yachts coming from the Eastern ance port for this was not to mention hurricane-free, cheap and interesting”, criteria of “warm, occupying to a hundred visiting yachts cruisers’ hangout with up once a popular has been few as two. The anchorage Recently, there were as the anchorage. dinghy thefts to crimes, ranging from because of the numerous largely abandoned committed there. violent boardings, about three weeks before the attack. Rob, a Dutch citizen, had been cruising for more a Dutch citizen, had been before the attack. Rob, about three weeks and his ex-wife, Friends say that Rob and had visited at least 54 countries. than 11 years aboard Jacqueline, had visited Porlamar from other cruisers, wished to return.memories and, despite warnings hotel guest, 32-year-old Jorge Alberto Huaca, was killed On July 19th, a Colombian during the theft of his gold chain. on the beach at Pampatar know Venezuela, and also to the coast guard; all of lot of fishermen, sailors who still is a very dangerous place and that they wouldn’t them told us that Margarita recommend going there.” for the children of Carriacou. Fourteen young Camp an underwater experience were taken to Anse La Roche Kayak participants and four volunteer staff members on Deefer Diving’s 30-foot catamaran, and swimming. and swimming. —Continued on next page at Porlamar on the morn- , September 2013) is the news of , September 2013) is the news , which was anchored approxi- Mary-Eliza Compass Mary-Eliza The late Rob Sterenburg and his ex-wife in happier times, as recorded on their blog Continued from previous page Continued from Rob was shot while reportedly resisting three or four armed robbers who sur- Rob was shot while reportedly resisting three or four Receiving multiple gunshot wounds, Rob was taken to the emergency room at the Receiving multiple gunshot wounds, Rob was taken to With the expansion of SailClear.com, actively supported by the CMA, freer move- supported by the CMA, of SailClear.com, actively With the expansion on the CMA visit www.caribbeanmarineassociation.com. For more information in Porlamar, Venezuela Cruiser Killed against cruis- report about violent crimes to the article in last month’s A sad update prised him and his girlfriend aboard the yacht. Commissioner Anthony Frontado, Anthony Frontado, prised him and his girlfriend aboard the yacht. Commissioner that the criminals Commander of the Municipal Police of Mariño, confirmed used an inflatable dinghy to reach the death of Robert Sterenburg of the Malo 42 the death of Robert Sterenburg ing of September 3rd. shore, presumably to avoid mately 500 metres (almost a third of a mile) from the such an attack. according to different Luis Ortega Hospital, accompanied by his girlfriend, but soon after. Two prosecu- reports he was either pronounced dead on arrival or died into the death. tors have been commissioned to lead the investigation ment between participating islands makes collaboration through the CMA essential collaboration through the participating islands makes ment between throughout industry. Already operating of the Caribbean yachting to the wellbeing it is hoped of Eastern Caribbean States), countries (Organisation most of the OECS islands. by the French and Dutch will also be accepted that SailClear.com Is It Safe?” ers in Venezuela (“Venezuela: — OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Pascal andtraineeAnthonyBoatswain Instructor EarlTobias,theGSA’sJacqui choice isoverwhelming. are over50rumdistilleriesintheregionandmorethan20breweriesmean or whatCaribbeanbeertoimbibe.Howeverforlessermortalsthefactthatthere cold bottleofCaribbeanbeerwhileloungingonthedeck. set, whilesippingonyourfavoriterumcocktail?Ormaybeyouprefertohavea www.grenadasailingassocation.org. Budget Marine,IslandDreams,WaterWorldandHorizonYachtCharters. Committee, Camper&Nicholson’sPortLouisMarina,theGrenadaYachtClub, School andNoahBullenoftheGrenadaYachtClubqualifiedasAssistantInstructors. Carriacou qualifiedasaLevel2Instructor.IsraelDharangitoftheGouyaveSailing Carriacou qualifiedasLevel1instructors.TeenaMarieoftheWindwardSailingClub, Carriacou, andAkimClementAnthonyBoatswainoftheL’EsterreSailingClub, Evans oftheGrenadaYachtClub,KayaWilsonWindwardSailing Grenada andCarriacou. ties toentertain,challengeandprovidenewamazingexperiences. lent summerschoolforchildrenfromCarriacou,offeringanamazingarrayofactivi- and afantasticarrayofreeffish,”GaryWardsays.CampKayakprovidesanexcel- good timeandwesawsomeamazingmarinelife,includingmorayeels,stingrays teach andthenguideasnorkellingtouraroundthebay.“Everyonehadreally — Seasoned sailorsmayknowtheinsandoutsofvariousCaribbeanrumbrands What canbemorerelaxingthansailingthroughtheCaribbean,watchingsun- Exploring CaribbeanRumandBeerinGrenada For moreinformationontheGrenadaSailingAssociationvisit This coursewasmadepossiblewithdonationsfromtheGrenadaOlympic Kevin BanfieldoftheGouyaveSailingSchoolqualifiedasSeniorInstructor.Rees On September10ththeGrenadaSailingAssociationannouncedsuccessful Grenadians QualifiedasSailingInstructors For moreinformationvisitcampkayak.org. Deefer DivingstaffmembersGaryWardandKennethAlexiswereonhandto Continued frompreviouspage course wereselectedfromallover Yacht Club.Theparticipantsinthe Training Course,givenattheGrenada Earl Tobias,ledtheGSAInstructor Trinidad &TobagoSailingAcademy, Junior SailingProgramme. tiative oftheMinistrySportand new CommunitySportsProgrammeini- oped thecoursetocomplement Olympic Association,theGSAdevel- Veda Bruno-Victor,andtheGrenada Emmalin Pierre,PermanentSecretary from theMinisterforSport,Hon. Instructor TrainingCourse.Withsupport completion oftheinauguralGSA Head Coach&ChiefInstructorofthe producers: it’sSkylarcPictures,notSkylarkProductions. Village’s Environment”wemisstatedthenameofonedocumentary’s www.navcen.uscg.gov. 4/6/8/12 MHzbandsasdescribedontheUSCoastguardnavigationcentrewebsite, rently. WatchkeepingcontinuesonexistingvoiceandDSCfrequenciesinthe Caribbean Rum&BeerFestivalonpage11;andXtremeFuelTreatment Coast Guardspokesman,quotedinthemagazine receive andrespondtocallsforassistanceonthe2MHzdistressfrequencies,”saysa ture supportdegradationthatputtheCoastGuardatriskofnotbeingableto frequency (MF)communicationssitesrevealedsignificantantennaandinfrastruc- International DigitalSelectiveCalling(DSC)distressfrequency2187.5kHz. kHz forinternationaldistressandsafety,theywilldiscontinuemonitoringthe and livemusicalentertainment.Bethere! ings, presentationsfromindustryexperts,acocktailcompetition,golftournament Grand AnseonNovember22ndand23rd.Itpromisestoprovidepatronswithtast- of Tourism,takesplaceat with theGrenadaBoard is hostedinpartnership days oftheevent. to sampleduringthetwo over 70differentproducts Caribbean andboasts and BeerFestivalinthe original CaribbeanRum culture. Itisthefirstand tional rum,beer,foodand Caribbean andinterna- Services, isashowcaseof Azure Management Festival organizedby Caribbean Rum&Beer Market Placesection,pages42through44. In thisissueof Welcome Aboard In lastmonth’sCaribbeanEco-Newsitem“DocumentaryHighlightsSeaside Department ofCorrections Maritime informationandweatherbroadcastson2670kHzwillterminateconcur- “This terminationdecisionwasmadeafterareviewofCoastGuardmedium- Effective August1st,theUSCoastGuardstoppedmonitoringvoicefrequency2182 USCG DistressFrequencyChange For moreinformationseeadonpage11. This year’sfestival,which Enter stagerighttheCaribbeanRum&BeerFestival.Nowinitsfourthyear, Good tohavewithus! Caribbean Compass Festival nextmonth 4th CaribbeanRum&Beer Grenada willhostthe wewelcomeaboardnewadvertisersthe
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The new building is custom built with high ceilings to display large amounts of mer- By moving in September we will be fully settled in and ready for business when the For more information on Budget Marine see ad on page 2. Venezuelan Marine Supply Celebrates 20 Years Denis Laesker, co-founder of Venezuelan Marine Supply, reports: In August 1993, The company soon added a series of services including a one-step check-in or During these years, there has been change of governments, change of political This new store will carry a broad range of merchandise that reflects the full- This new store will carry a broad range of merchandise page 48. For more information on Island Water World see ad on New Jolly Harbour Location for Budget Marine in Antigua started in November Robbie Ferron reports: The Budget Marine store in Antigua very close by and looking Now Budget Marine is moving into a purpose-built facility
Island Water World Opens Chandlery in Marigot, St. Martin Opens Chandlery in Marigot, Island Water World St. Maarten/ chandlery on the island of will be opening its third Island Water World It abuts next to the tourism office. in the old museum building The store is housed by Valerie Leroy, well known among cruisers for her The business will be managed BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS forward to serving the Jolly Harbour and Antigua markets more efficiently as we cel- ebrate 21 years in Antigua and come of age! The new building is just a few metres farther from the boatyard and adjacent to the storage yard. It is actually closer for marina guests. chandise and forklift access for the second floor. season starts. With this opening we celebrate our 21st birthday in Antigua and are ready for a great 2013/2014 season. Vemasca opened its doors in Porlamar, Isla Margarita, Venezuela. Back then, the number of sailboats cruising Venezuelan waters was increasing fast and Margarita was the only island destination in the Caribbean with no marine chandlery available. check-out process. Cruisers began to stay for longer periods of time as a water delivery system was also put in place. A dinghy dock with a watchman was built just across the street. A little restaurant was set in the premises. Laundry, book swap, and mail drop were available to all visitors. Since day one, Carlos “Charlie” Adam, a flu- ent English-, German-, and Spanish-speaking salesman, was always available to help the cruisers understand and enjoy the island and the country he loved. orientation, severe exchange control, Charlie passed away, the store had to move to a new location, and Margarita slowly disappeared from the list of cruising desti- nations in the Caribbean — but Vemasca is yet steaming ahead. —Continued on next page assortment philosophy of Island Water World. Access to larger quantities will be assortment philosophy of Island Water World. Access to facility in Cole Bay. easily achieved by the proximity to the company’s distribution and within a year moved 1992 in the commercial center of the Jolly Harbour Marina plant that was modified to to a larger building. This building was really a cement boatyard, however, which accommodate a retail store. It was located right in the made for ease of supply to boatyard projects. St. Martin — this one in the center of Marigot, on the French side. one in the center of Marigot, St. Martin — this one side and Marina Port Royale on the other. It is easily the Geminga boatyard on and is right in the hub of marine activities in the town. accessible by dinghy or road products and parts. She will continue to also own the ability to source hard-to-find World Agency in Marina Fort Louis. commissary and Island Water OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 — —Continuedonnextpage damaged underwatersurfaces. surface canbedrilled,tapped,ormachined. Perfectforpatchingandrepairing concrete, fiberglassandsteel,bothabove andbelowthewaterline.Itshard-as-nails and fiberglass.Itgoesonlikeputtytofill, patch,sealorre-buildaluminum,wood, part, fast-dryingepoxythatrepairsblisters, cracks,joints,andscratchesingelcoat use withSeaHawk’sTuffStuff.HawkFiller isanextremelyhard,impact-resistant,two- Republic isnowavailableinanupdatedSpanish-languageedition. www.FreeCruisingGuides.com start! nesses, whichwillhelpyouwhilefellowcruisers.TheDirectoryisfree:go to Caribbean whoofferworldwideserviceofproductdeliverytoyourboat. restaurants tocarrentals.Thedirectoryalsoincludesvendorsoutsideofthe nesses ofinteresttocruisingsailors,rangingfromboatyardswelders,marinas hensive resourceforcruisersthroughouttheCaribbean.TheDirectoryincludesbusi- 50 to500USgallons. complete lineofspace-savingATLFueLockersinsevenstandardsizesvaryingfrom and compactstorage. use, allATLbladdersarecompletelycollapsiblewhichmakesforeffortlesstransport array ofshapesandsizesthatsafelyacceptbothgasolinediesel.Whennotin and configurationstobestutilizeavailablespace. capabilities allowcaptainsandownerstheabilitytospeciallytailorbladdersizes cumbersome andsimplyconsumetoomuchspace.AeroTec’scustomfabrication vessel’s limitedfuelcapacity. source thatallowsyachtstoreachexoticdestinationswithouttheburdenoftheir back, givingthemabroadunderstandingoftheneedsmarinemarket. with leadingboatandyachtmanufacturershasabsorbedvaluablecustomerfeed- the motorsports,aviation,militaryandmarineindustries.Overyears,ATLhasworked ATL hasledthewayindevelopingruggedandreliableflexiblecontainmentdevicesfor renowned customfuelbladderservicestotheyachtingcommunity.Fornearly45years, Conference wellaftertheplannedendingtime. they putfarmorehoursontheirgeneratorsthanmostpleasurecraftowners. factors maketheNLproductuniquelyqualifiedforcustomersinCaribbean,as despite thefactthatNLproductwasslightlymoreexpensiveupfront.Allofthese ownership withNorthernLightswasfelttobesignificantlylessthananycompetitor, support theyexperiencewithNLanyothermanufacturer.Theoverallcostof dealers foratleastoneothermarinegeneratormanufacturer,nonehadthelevelof port thatisofferedbyNorthernLights.Althoughmostofthedealersattendingare than anythingelseonthemarkettoday.Amajordifferentiatorwasfactorysup- fewer parts,waseasiertorepair,hadfarmorepartsredundancy,andranlonger cussed. ItwasgenerallyfeltthattheNLproductrequiredlessmaintenance,usedfar unavoidable additionalcosts. surcharges. Thereisnosolutionforthesechargesandsopartspricessufferthe Transit, allcountriesimposesomecosts,suchasbrokeragefeesandgovernment Although somecountriesareabletoimportitemsonadutyfreebasisforYachtsin ated onhowtoreducethecostofshipping,improvecustomersatisfaction. emphasis onthefastestmethodofshippingtoeachcountry.Ideaswerealsogener- 500kw currentlyunderdevelopmentwereunveiled. of airconditioning,refrigerationandloadbanks.Newgeneratormodelsupto product changes,warrantypolicyandclaimprocedures,theTechnicoldbrand discussed, includingtheCaribbeanNorthernLights.comwebsite,newproductsand service theirCaribbeandealershipsareabletoprovide.Awiderangeofissueswas these meetingstogetfeedbackfromtheircustomersandmonitorthelevelof cruising areaforownersofNorthernLightsProductsandthefactoryencourages were updatedonissuesarisingfromdealers’territories.TheCaribbeanisaprime Dealerships fromtheUSVItoTrinidadwererepresentedandfactoryrepresentatives in DeerfieldBeach,Floridafortheirsemi-annualCaribbeanDealerConference. the lightonhorizon! sailing inveryroughseas,isduetomydaughter,RitchieLaesker,whoablesee For moreinformationonSeaHawkPaints seeadonpage17. Sea HawkPaintsintroducesFiller,a premiummarinefillerrecommendedfor Product Spotlight:HawkFillerComingSoon! For moreinformationonFreeCruisingGuidesseeadpage34. In otherFreeCruisingGuidenews,thetoDominican The Directoryoffersaninteractivefeaturewhereuserscanrateandreviewbusi- Earlier thissummer,FreeCruisingGuidesannounced“TheDirectory”,acompre- Free CruisingGuidesAnnounces‘TheDirectory’ For moreinformationonATLseeadpage38. In additiontotheircustomcapabilities,ATL’swarehouseisfullystockedwitha ATL canbuildfullyself-supporting,military-specrubberizedfuelbladdersinawide ATL realizesthatdeckspaceisextremelyvaluable.Inmostinstances,jerryjugsare ATL’s innovativeseriesofFueLockerfuelbladdersprovideavitalauxiliary Aero TecLaboratories(ATL)ofRamsey,NewJerseyisnowofferingtheirworld- Custom FuelBladdersfromAeroTec For moreinformationonNorthernLightsvisitwww.caribbeannorthernlights.com. The subjectmatterwasinterestingenoughthatalltheparticipantsremainedat Comparison oftheNorthernLightsproductswithothermarinegeneratorswasdis- Freight methodsfromtheUStoCaribbeanwerealsodiscussed,withparticular On August20thand21st,NorthernLightsdealerprincipalsrepresentativesmet Caribbean NorthernLightsDealerConference For moreinformationonVemascaseeadpage26. Today, 20yearsafteritsfounding,theveryexistenceofcompany,asaboat Continued frompreviouspage OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 after fire devastated the cruise ship. after fire devastated Bianca C Continued from previous page Continued from St. Lucia and Taiwan Explore Yachting Sector Partnership The opportunity for a billion-dollar yachting sector partnership is being explored by During an August state visit by Taiwanese President Ma Ying-jeou, St. Lucia`s “We propose further that we can offer an incentive registration and berthing of In preparation to maximize the potential benefits from the billion-dollar yachting Puerto Rico’s Puerto Del Rey Marina Expands Meanwhile, the Caribbean Journal (www.caribjournal.com) reports that the Puerto At build-out, Marina Gaviota Varadero will be the largest in the Caribbean, with a Construction of the complex is already well underway, with the opening of Phase 1 Cuba’s Mega-Marina Project at Cuba’s premier Cuban government officials announced a marina mega-project YCCS Marina Recognized for Design Excellence YCCS Marina Recognized for Engineers’ Coasts, Oceans, Ports, and Rivers Institute The American Society of Civil facility on a small island The project consisted of building a world-class superyacht pile would perform was “Advanced modeling and analysis of how each individual depths over 35 feet The extreme nature of the Virgin Gorda site including water through both COPRI’s Project Excellence Award recognizes innovation, Since then, the club has become a landmark in Grenada, offering over 45 berthing a landmark in Grenada, offering over 45 berthing Since then, the club has become headquarters and home of Grenada’s Budget Marine The club has also been the boast a bar, restaurant and catering services by The newly renovated premises committed to its mission to encourage boating, The Grenada Yacht Club remains Grenada Yacht Club Sports a New Look Grenada Yacht a cocktail cere- Yacht Club hosted the management of the Grenada On July 25th, the water in 1954, and was housed near Yacht Club was first opened The Grenada who were many of the passengers was used to accommodate In 1961, the club the Governments of St. Lucia and the Republic of China (Taiwan). Minister for Tourism Honourable Lorne Theophilus encouraged the Taiwanese to use St. Lucia as a hub to market yachts built in Taiwan, the world`s fourth largest produc- er of megayachts. yachts purchased from Taiwan amongst a variety of other initiatives which include joint marketing that will result in fiscal benefits for both of us,” Theophilus said. sector partnership, the Government of St. Lucia has moved to legislate the establish- ment of a Yachting Registration Desk. Steps are also being taken for the establish- ment of maritime training programmes at the Sir Arthur Lewis Community College. Del Rey Marina in Fajardo, Puerto Rico, presently the largest marina in the Caribbean, will be receiving a US$450 million transformation, including improvements to the restaurants and facilities, an expansion of capacity beyond its current level of 1,100 boats and a mixed-use real estate component. The expansion will mean the marina can receive ships of more than 200 feet. Work has already begun, and the government said the project would create between 300 and 500 permanent jobs upon completion. Puerto del Rey was acquired in June by Putnam Bridge Funding. capacity for close to 1,300 boats of different sizes and berths for six megayachts, according to Frank País Oltuski, vice president of state company Grupo Gaviota SA. Marina Puerto del Rey in Puerto Rico is currently the biggest in the Caribbean. País made the announcement in May at the international tourism fair FITCuba 2013 in Varadero. The new marina will nearly triple Cuba’s transient marina slip capacity. expected for the 2013-14 winter season. Phase 1 of the expansion will accommo- date 400 boats. beach resort, located on the Hicacos Peninsula, about 150 kilometres east of beach resort, located on the Hicacos Peninsula, about sized marina, is part of a Havana. The project, an expansion of an existing, modestly move it upmarket. billion-dollar push to diversify Cuba’s tourism offering and COPRI) announced that its 2013 Project Excellence Award in the Large Project cate- COPRI) announced that its Marine, in partnership with H+K Engineering gory, was awarded to Bellingham Club Costa Smeralda (YCCS) Marina, Virgin Gorda. Group, for their work on Yacht and the region’s expo- in the British Virgin Islands. The island’s limited infrastructure challenges for the team. sure to dynamic weather events created some unique in delivering an award Accolades were given by the judges for the team’s success conditions associated with winning facility that addressed the difficult environmental the large yachts mooring to the remote, deep-water project site and the needs of use of engineering the docks. The project was also praised for its exemplary best practice. the entire system,” said Bill vital to ensure the long term successful performance of Huffman, Principal and Senior Engineer at H+K. with the loads placed on (nine metres) and extremely hard limestone, combined of a technically the docks by large vessels, necessitated the development advanced floating dock system. negative environmental research methodologies and techniques that decrease design, analytical impacts and demonstrate significant achievement through and construction concepts. spaces to Grenadians and visiting yachtsmen. The club continues to play a vital role visiting yachtsmen. The club continues to play a vital role spaces to Grenadians and Sailing School. in education through the Grenada in the longest-running and largest billfish tournament Spice Island Billfish Tournament, its inception over 45 years ago. the Southern Caribbean since include secure berthing for boat owners and stylish Creole Shack. Additional facilities of the business community and other organizations surroundings, where members can hold functions. in yachting events internationally and in Grenada. Come yachting and participation that is so rich in heritage and is now a stunning landmark and visit this unique venue in Grenada’s maritime architecture. mony to mark the opening of its newly renovated club and facilities. club and facilities. the opening of its newly renovated mony to mark the entire pier, Janet and the loss of the pier. As a result of Hurricane police shed on Tanteen. In 1960, for land at The Spout in move and obtained a lease the club had to Lloyd. the Administrator James “Jimmy” rebuilt and opened by the premises were the rescued from — OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 is fast becoming ‘the’ Caribbean destination for yacht destination owners. Caribbean ‘the’ becoming fast is ofGrenada Island’ ‘Spice atmosphere, the Caribbean unspoilt and authentic an and With arare combination ofworld-class facilities — www.cnmarinas.com/plm – or email [email protected] on+1 (473) Donelan 7431 Danny 435 Call – – – – – – – possible. as your enjoyable stay as relaxing and staff knowledgeable well-trained and Our &Nicholsons. by Camper run marina you’d from afull-service expect amenities the all with berth provides secure asafe, Marina Louis Port — Visit Grenada season this Add a little spice to your sailing: — Excellent air links nearby facilities technical and Haul-out Bar, restaurant pool and swimming 24 hour security Free broadband Water and electricity are dedicated to making are dedicated to making LOA in feet Daily $/ft/day Weekly $/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day Weekly Daily $/ft/day LOA infeet pt 0 17 15 $1.45 $1.53 $1.70 up to 100 pt 0$.0$.7$1.11 $1.17 $1.30 up to 60 pt 0$.5$.9$1.40 $1.49 $1.65 up to 80 pt 0$.0$.9$0.94 $0.99 $1.10 up to 40 pt 0$.0$.8$1.02 $1.08 $1.20 up to 50 pt 5$.5$.1$1.23 $1.31 $1.45 up to 65 pt 5$.0$.5$1.28 $1.35 $1.50 up to 75 pt 2$.5$.7$0.72 $0.77 $0.85 up to 32 For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for bookings of longer periods, periods, oflonger LOA, for feet bookings and above 100 For yachts to yachts staying consecutively for 7 days or 30 days for respectively. 7days 30 or consecutively staying to yachts please contact us for a personalised quote. Multihulls are charged Multihulls quote. usfor apersonalised contact please at 1.5 times the standard rate. Weekly and monthly rates apply monthly and rate. Weekly standard the times at 1.5 New rates: to 2013 1December 31May 2014 OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11
NASA These images from the US National Aeronautics and Space Administration show vast clouds of Sahara Dust moving across the Atlantic toward the Caribbean Friday 4pm - 10pm, Saturday 2pm - 10pm 4th Caribbean Grand Anse, Grenada Grenada Cultural Centre, Join the fun 22-23 November 2013 Sail to Grenada Rum & Beer Festival XXXSVNBOECFFSGFTUJWBMDPNtXXXDBSJCCFBOSVNBOEZBDIUJOHDPN Over time, human activity has changed the composition of the dust clouds. Over time, human activity has changed the composition of arsenic and cadmium, African dust sampled in Barbados had elevated levels a threat to coral, although Experts also worry that chemicals in the dust may pose the formation of hurricanes On a more positive note, the dust clouds may inhibit Research elsewhere has shown that one cat can kill hundreds of prey animals per cat can kill hundreds of prey has shown that one Research elsewhere Saba residents will be interviewing from Wageningen University In this study, students areas and control in critical seabird the outcome, directed predator Depending on Sahara Dust — Health Concerns? at www.caribbean360.com, clouds of “Sahara dust” According to a recent report Scientists say that they now contain trace amounts of metals, microorganisms, bac- Scientists say that they now contain trace amounts of no evidence exists that the teria, spores, pesticides and faecal matter, although Mojena of Cuba’s Institute of quantities are sufficient to pose a threat. Eugenio in the semi-arid Sahel region Meteorology said the particles are believed to originate and employ chemical fertil- south of the Sahara Desert, where farmers raise livestock izers and pesticides. of marine and atmospheric according to Joseph M. Prospero, professor emeritus on health is not known chemistry at the University of Miami. “The specific impact to link specific particle com- here or anywhere else. It has been extremely difficult author of a paper on the position to health effects,” said Prospero, who is lead the American Meteorological dust published in September by the bulletin of has, but there is reason for Society. “So it cannot be said what effect all this dust some concern.” the theory is still a subject of debate. in West Africa presumably in the Caribbean. According to Prospero, lower rainfall water temperatures and cuts causes more dust, which reduces sunlight, lowers evaporation, all factors in cyclonic formation. ing studies on the distribution and diet of feral cats on the island. the distribution and diet ing studies on tropicbird popu- cats can devastate entire even low numbers of year. Consequently, usually notice- long-lived, the impacts are the seabirds are relatively lations. Since the damage is irreversible. able only after towards a long- could be supported views on cats and what measures to find out their colonies to will be removed from the seabird A small number of stray cats term solution. of the animals. as diet, health and diseases on breeding success as well study the effect need to be implemented and enforced on Saba. better pet care practices may the from regional scientists. They now say that are attracting increasing attention health concerns and merit more study to understand particulate matter may cause its potential impact. XFCTJUFGPS &/+0: $0.& 0'' $IFDLPVUPVS 5)&'6/ 40$*"-&7&/54 '3* 4"546/ -News will receive prizes for will also receive overall Eco IGY RODNEY BAY MARINA RODNEY BAY IGY (Silver Sponsor) are offering on berthing costs for participating boats from other islands. - DECEMBER 1st will race together for TH 29 - SLYC SAILING CAPTAIN email: [email protected] SAILING CAPTAIN - SLYC RODNEY BAY SAILS RODNEY BAY if completed SAINT LUCIA - REGATTA COORDINATOR - REGATTA US$100.00
$MBTT+$MBTT daily and overall prizes on handicap prizes for 1st, 2nd & 3rd 1st, 2nd & 3rd t'PSB/*/&3"$&4&3*&4UIF4VSQSJTF t5IF4VSQSJTFBOE+$MBTT t3BDJOH$SVJTJOH$MBTT:BDIUT entry forms are submitted by November15th. Friday &OUSZ'FF %JTDPVOU XXXTUMVDJBZBDIUDMVCDPN CONTACTS: "OOF1VSWJT email: [email protected] tel: 1(758) 488 5447 'SFESJD4XFFOFZ NOVEMBER 4QPOTPST*ODMVEF Using motion-triggered infrared cameras, sponsored by the Dutch nature manage- Using motion-triggered infrared cameras, sponsored by Study Underway on Seabird Predators in Saba seabirds, the Red Billed Saba hosts important populations of two endangered It was the third annual networking meeting for the marine protected areas of the It was the third annual networking meeting for the marine Other areas of focus during the meeting were the sharing of best management Other areas of focus during the meeting were the sharing The marine protected areas represented from St. Vincent & the Grenadines were represented from St. Vincent & the Grenadines were The marine protected areas The lionfish was accidentally introduced to the Caribbean Sea and poses a threat introduced to the Caribbean Sea and poses a threat The lionfish was accidentally Lionfish Problem Addressed in the Grenadines Lionfish Problem Addressed areas in Grenada and St. Vincent & the Grenadines Staff from six marine protected Of particular note in 2012 was the record number of sea turtle nests that were was the record number of sea turtle nests that were Of particular note in 2012 Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire Report Available Bonaire Report Sea Turtle Conservation Report is now Research & Monitoring Turtle Conservation Bonaire The 2012 Sea Caribbean Caribbean ment organization Vogelbescherming, to take images of predators preying on chicks ment organization Vogelbescherming, to take images cats might largely be respon- and eggs at active nests, it was discovered that feral to be part of the problem. To sible for the demise of the birds. Rats are also likely researchers are conduct- better understand the issue and derive possible solutions, Tropicbird and Audubon’s Shearwater. Recent research shows that tropicbird breed- Tropicbird and Audubon’s Shearwater. Recent research the large nesting sites at Great ing success in the past years has been close to zero in Level and Bunker Hill. Grenadines, made possible by The Ocean Foundation and the Western Hemisphere Grenadines, made possible by The Ocean Foundation States. Migratory Species Initiative of the Organization of American practices for coral reef conservation, the importance of mangrove ecosystems and practices for coral reef conservation, the importance 20 local school children took marine law enforcement. On the final morning, some marine education activities part with the rangers/wardens in a series of outdoor organized in association with the KIDO Foundation. The Tobago Cays Marine Park, Mustique Marine Conservation Area and the South Mustique Marine Conservation Area and the South The Tobago Cays Marine Park, Area. From Grenada were the Sandy Island/Oyster Bed, Coast Marine Conservation Protected Areas. Woburn/Clark’s Court and Moliniere/Beausejour Marine to native reef fish. Their voracious appetites, coupled with their rapid reproductive appetites, coupled with their rapid reproductive to native reef fish. Their voracious a major obstacle in marine conservation. Their manage- rates, are making lionfish are of the fisheries and tourism industries, which ment is necessary for the health people in Grenada and St. Vincent & the Grenadines, the basis of livelihoods for many and throughout the Caribbean. were trained in lionfish capture and handling in Carriacou from August 28th and handling in Carriacou from August 28th were trained in lionfish capture through 30th. found on Bonaire, which was probably due to the increased monitoring by STBC’s probably due to the increased monitoring by STBC’s found on Bonaire, which was sea year the group saw their first live Olive Ridley excellent Beachkeepers. Last at become entangled in fishing debris and washed up turtle on Bonaire. It had by STCB staff, untangled and returned to the sea. Find Lagoen, where it was rescued strandings starting on page 32 of the report. out more about this and other available at www.bonaireturtles.org. The report captures ten years of systematic and report captures ten years of The available at www.bonaireturtles.org. Bonaire Bonaire. Sea Turtle Conservation on the sea turtles of ongoing research that has been conservation organization research and (STCB) is a non-governmental and research funding from conservation turtles since 1991 with protecting sea and donations. grants, merchandise sales OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 to arriveinSt.LuciaduringthefirstweekofDecember. means thatdespitethestopover,ARC+boatsaredue and scenery.TheearlierdeparturefromLasPalmas over tointroducecrewstheCapeVerdes’culture gramme ofeventswillbearrangedduringthestop- south untilthebuttermelts”andanexcitingpro- where new.Theislandsareperfectlyplacedto“sail in theCapeVerdesasachancetoexploresome- tradewinds toSt.Lucia. Mindelo, SaoVicente,beforecontinuingwiththe start, andfeatureathreetofivedaystopoverin November 10th,twoweeksearlierthanthetraditional ARC+ CapeVerdeswilldeparttheCanaryIslandson added anewrouteoptiontoofferexperience. has beenunprecedentedandorganizershave for crews!” St. Maarten. from Guadeloupe,andhopefullyanotherone and wecanexpectfourboatsfromMartinique,one Dominica, BarbadosandAntigua. boats coming,mainlyfromMartiniquebutalso View overPortoGrande,SaoVicente,CapeVerdes November 1stthrough3rd. Cup regattawillbeheldinGuadeloupefrom Marziou, says,“ Regatta News The newARC+CapeVerdeswilldepartSaoVicente Many returningcrewshavewelcomedthestopover In 2013,demandtojointheARCtransatlanticrally New CapeVerdesRoutePopularwithARCSailors For moreinformationseeadonpage15. “And, asusual,asplendidpartywithspecialdinner “This yeartherewillbeaspecialclassforMelges24, President oftheTriskellorganization, The regattaseasonisstarting!13thannualTriskell Melges ClassAddedtoTriskellCup,Guadeloupe We hopetoseebetween50and60 XdciVXi5XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g Jean-Michel HeZX^Va^hih G><<>C<":A:8IGDC>8":C:G
Three LittlePigs WORLD CRUISING CLUB CRUISING WORLD *.+ % *.+,)-%(( Newick Val series trimaran in Newick Valseriestrimaranin son, Peter,activelyracesa present the award. Paul’s present theaward.Paul’s and daughters.Paulwill Martin, withthehelpofwives Westerman, andJoeSan Paul Voytershark,Llewellyn is stillinservice. ist trade— served theBuckIslandtour- Ay boats, startingwiththe Regatta in1961.Dick’s Sailfish (earlySunfish) and wontheisland’sfirst junior sail-trainingprogram, first Optimistpramsfortheir Croix YachtClub,builtthe active memberoftheSt. the early1970s.Hewasan Croix fromthelate1950sto lived andbuiltboatsonSt. Regatta 2013. The award was created by The awardwascreatedby Dick, ashewasknown, , a40-footcatamaran, Vindjg "AVWZafjVa^in "CZlZfj^eeZYldg`h]deh "8^k^agZhedch^W^a^in ":meZg^ZcXZYegd[Zhh^dccVahiV[[ "=^\]aZkZad[hZgk^XZ "L^YZhidX`d[heVgZeVgih , a Newick Tricia , aNewickTricia "AZBVg^cBVg^cV Trice Charis II Piglet , atrimaran, Charis . Lew . Lew . Joe . Joe Ay
hZgk^XZ 10:00 2013 willtakeplaceonNovember24th,startingat country iseligibleforentry. [email protected]. Pleasenoteonlyoneteamper a team,pleasecontactAntiguaYachtClubatwww. www.caribbean-sailing.com. Ifyouwouldliketoenter for manyentrants. an excellentstepping-stoneintocompetitivesailing Zoom 8,OptimistandLaserPicoclasses.Theeventis juniors toseniorsracinginLaserOpen,Radial, major wayofachievingthisgoal. and sanctioningthisothereventsisseenasa another ofthemajorobjectivesCSA,however, of dinghysailingandyachtingintheCaribbeanis the Association.Promotionandsupportofgrowth zation ofeventsmovesawayfromacorefunction maintain andmanagetheCSAratingruleorgani- cess. Inaddition,oneofthemainrolesCSAisto an annualbasismakesforasimplifiedplanningpro- tics ofhavingtheeventorganizedbyonenationon ferent Caribbeancountryeachyear. Dinghy Championshipswereoriginallyhostedbyadif- a slateofCSA-sanctionedevents.TheCaribbean Caribbean DinghyChampionshipswillbecomeoneof all organizationalaspectsoftheeventand the NationalSailingAcademyashostswilltakeover tion withtheCSA.In2013,AntiguaYachtCluband the pasttwoyearswhilebeingorganizedinassocia- be heldfromNovember15ththrough17th. that the2013CaribbeanDinghyChampionshipswill Champagne over20yearsago. class tohitthescales—atraditionstartedbyMumm’s and thePerpetualSt.CroixInternationalTrophy. —Continuedonnextpage spinnaker), J/24andSurpriseClasses. with competitionforRacing(spinnaker),Cruising(non- Bowl Regatta,November29ththroughDecember1st, pants! Registrationisfree. year wehad58entriesandmorethan350partici- cooperation withtheSaintLuciaTouristBoard.Last and theMarineIndustriesAssociationofSt.Luciain etcetera —allwatercraftarewelcome. ing boatsandmore;wemotor,sail,windsurf,kite-surf, yachts, smallHobieCats,Lasers,Fireballs,fish- 2013 fromLasPalmasGranCanariatoStLucia.Inbig the 28theditionofAtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC) Rodney BayMarina,tocelebratetheofficialstartof Danielle DeRouckreports:St.Lucia’sARCFlotilla St. Lucia’sARCFlotilla2013 The NoticeofRaceisavailableonlineat The eventseesteamsofmixedagegroupsfrom The changewasmadeprimarilybecausethelogis- The ChampionshipshavebeenheldinAntiguafor The CaribbeanSailingAssociation(CSA)announces in Antigua 2013 CaribbeanDinghyChampstobeHeld For moreinformationseeadonpage13. All classesmusthavesevenormoreboatsintheir Plans continuetoberolledoutforthe2013Mango St. Lucia’sMangoBowl2013onTarget! For [email protected]. The flotillaisorganizedbyIGYRodneyBayMarina AM , andparadingfromCastriesHarbourto lll#XVgV^WZ"bVg^cZ#[g OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 Spice it up! Grenada Sailing Week offers mouth-watering racing conditions The regatta will be moving to different bays around around be moving to different bays The regatta will take the yachts around Racing on the Saturday will the yachts will race off On the Monday and Tuesday Register online at www.grenadasailingweek.com increased support for the 2014 event is much appreci- for the 2014 event is much increased support to intro- the organizers intend ated. For this edition has to offer the very best that Grenada duce sailors to to supporters and participants and invite sponsors, Grenada!” “Spice it up in for varied southern Grenada coast the western and social by day and stimulating sailing experience a warm night. Participants will receive activity every and premier Camper welcome at Grenada’s with everything on hand Nicholsons Port Louis Marina comfortable arrival, for easy registration and a and Welcome Party including the Skippers’ Briefing the Friday racing starts on the Thursday evening. On waters off Grand Anse in and around the sheltered popular Victory Bar and ends with a party at the and Restaurant. Marina, perfect setting Point Saline to Le Phare Bleu Lay Day there will be for a Pirate Party. On Sunday by the Petite Hobie Cat Match Racing organized dinghy concert out in the Calivigny Yacht Club and a on a barge. bay with live music and bar ending up at Prickly Bay the challenging south coast, each evening, includ- Marina for great entertainment party at the Tiki Bar on the ing the awards dinner and final night. the GSWFacebook Page and find further updates via and E-Newsletter. Take advantage of the low early registration fee of US$80 per boat by registering and paying by December 31st. The organizers have announced an expanded pro- have announced an expanded The organizers the 19th Barbados dates back to The race around commences on Registration for this annual event For more information visit www.mountgayrumround- for Grenada Island Water World is Title Sponsor Sailing Week Board is pleased to The Grenada Sailing Week be held January 15th through 24th, 2014, with three 15th through 24th, 2014, be held January days of coastal racing. additional spectacular with 78th anniversary racing series, gramme for the and west coastal sailing off the south three days of for all sizes island, with courses designed coasts of the yachts, followed by the signature and classes of with an Barbados Race, and ending 60-mile Round passage to Antigua. optional 300-mile rights for the fastest century, based upon bragging was worth its weight in ‘Trading Schooner’. The prize where prices for cargo gold to captains in an era commanded a massive arriving ahead of rival ships sailed for the honour of premium. While most boats prize of a barrel of the fastest time, the consolation certainly spurred on Mount Gay Rum for the slowest be discontinued after two some captains, and had to for days stalling to take boats remained out at sea the prize. Cruising Club, with January 15th at the Barbados online entry available now. barbadosrace.com. World will be title sponsor announce that Island Water for Grenada Sailing Week 2014, to be held January 30th through February 4th. This well-established chan- dlery was a Race Day Sponsor in 2013 and their
GEOFFREY BOURNE on PM 3 Days of Racing Racing for round-the-island bragging rights in Barbados REGISTER NOW! Phone #: 1-340-773-9531 2013 ST. CROIX CROIX 2013 ST. Website: www.stcroixyc.com Website: See NOR on website for Details Registration Fee Only US$150 on November 16th). PM Winning Skipper’s in Rum Winning Weight For all Classes with 7 or more Boats “2 Regattas in One Weekend” November 15th, 16th and 17th INTERNATIONAL REGATTA INTERNATIONAL Continued from previous page Continued from Live Bands and Crucian Hospitality All Weekend Live Bands and Crucian Hospitality With some exciting racing expected and great expected and great With some exciting racing the Notice of Race Get on the contact list to receive on page 11. For more information see ad Race 2014 Mount Gay Round Barbados Barbados Race Series will The Mount Gay Rum Round The Skippers’ Briefing will take place at 6:00 The Skippers’ There will be three races each on November 30th for races each on November There will be three be two races each for On December 1st there will if pre-registered in full The entry fee is US$100 (US$90 social occasions it’s not to be missed. A growing list be missed. A growing list social occasions it’s not to Bay Marina, Blue of sponsors includes IGY Rodney Rum, Island Water Waters, Heineken, Mount Gay Regis Electronics and World, Johnson Hardware, Rodney Bay Sails. Mango Bowl Regatta and Entry Form by contacting slycsecretary@gmail. Co-ordinator, Anne Purvis, at Fredric Sweeney, at com or SLYC Sailing Captain, [email protected]. — Friday, November 29th at the St. Lucia Yacht Club, fol- 29th at the St. Lucia Yacht Friday, November boat at the club. A spectator lowed by a barbecue of the at all races for members will be in attendance public and press. for the J/24 Cruising Classes, and six the Racing and classes will the two one-design and Surprise Classes; race together. and three for the J/24 the Racing and Cruising Classes in the afternoon. and Surprise Classes, with prizegiving on-line by 5:00 OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 ble andshrewd. for thisprestigiousregatta,histiming was impecca- American andinternationalpresswould beonhand on theislandnation.Understanding thatthe named FulgencioBatistawasplotting a coupd’etat side ofHavana,a33-year-oldCuban Army Colonel Gulf Streamandtheweather,onamilitary baseout- scandal inthenationalmedia. year beforeintheGulfofMexicoandcausedabit Tropicair and hisall-femalecrewonboard40-footschooner, Le Hedermanwassimplylookingtoredeemhimself again enjoytheexoticclubsandnightlifeofHavana. their second-placefinishfromtheyearbeforeandthen staysail schooner, Havana Harbor Above: George BassandhiscrewfromDetroiton60-foot the newscratchboatinfleet, recently acquiredbigketch, York hadwageredlargeamountsofmoneythathis race of1948.John“theTaxiKing”Hertz,Jr.New Windjammer II his fourthoverallwinon60-footschooner, Southern YachtClubinNewOrleanswasgunningfor mile St.PetersburgtoHavanaRace.GarnerTullisof hopping withcrewspreparingforthe284-nautical- piers attheSt.PetersburgYachtClubinFloridawere gun fire.” were sprayedbyaburstofsmallarmsandmachine Within 30secondsafterwecrossedthefinishline, mainsail. “Butitwasmuchtoocloseforcomfort. Detroit ashepointedoutthebulletholesinhisyacht’s Windjammer II byTroyGilbert FinishingontheFiringLine: CARIBBEAN MARITIMEHISTORY Right: WindjammerII As partoftheSouthernOceanRacing Circuit, the While allofthesesailorswerepreparing tofightthe Days earlier,inearlyMarchof1952,thebarand “No onewashurt,fortunately,”saidGeorgeBassof Havana Race,1952 The crewof , afterthey’dgotten“lost”duringtherace St. Petersburgto , andtoequalhisthreebulletsinthe crossing thefinishlineinfrontofMorroCastleatentrancetoHavanaHarbor Windjammer II Ben Bow We’re not sure why the mainmast We’re notsurewhythemainmast underway in ‘schooner weather’. underway in‘schoonerweather’. Ticonderoga, , werehopingtobetter is shorterin Doris III stands ondeckin woulddefeat outofTexas. this photo non firefromtheCoastGuardcutter ing crowdsalongtheshoresofTampaBayandcan- warm andmoistairofthetropics.Atnoon,torous- would wreakhavocintheGulfasitrunsinto crews couldstillexpecttheerrantcoldfrontthat regatta wasinits19thyearandearlyMarch,the aboard 15 minutesuntilafterthelastofstarts,Hederman certain tofall. set in1949bytheCubanschooner made andtheracerecordof35hourschange ventional wisdomwasthathistorygoingtobe breeze andmoreexpectedintheopenwaters,con- Against anincomingtide,butwitha20-plus-knot participants startedtheirepicjourneytoCuba. station ascommitteeboat,therecord29official yacht” bythemedia, shore andspectatorboats.Nicknamed the“rebel headed southwest,cheeredonbythecrowds women forthreedays. out ofonemanvanishingatseawith eightsingle back” toFlorida.Thenationalmediahad madehay in theGulfofMexicoforthreedaysbefore “limping tioned bytheRaceCommitteeandthen getting“lost” previous year’srace,havingnotbeenofficially sanc- a nameforthemselvesviasalacious eventinthe Doing lazycirclesbehindthefleetandwaitingafull In 1952, Tropicair Tropicair’s unofficiallytookhisstarttimeand registrationwasagaindeniedby Tropicair andhercrewhadmade Bellatrix Nemesis
was
, on ALL PHOTOS: SOUTHERN YACHT CLUB YACHT SOUTHERN PHOTOS: ALL were lostwith some indesperatestraits.Radiocommunications encing equipmentfailuresandbegandroppingout, lashing thefleet,severalcompetitorsstartedexperi- way, yettherewasatensemoodinthecity. planning fortheregattacelebrationswasfullyunder- Carlos Prio,earlyreportsanddispatcheswerethatthe including thetrophypresentationsbyCuba’sPresident a weekoffestivitiesplannedatHavana’sfinestclubs, entrance toHavana’sharbor,inabouttenhours.With ing pastthefinishatMorroCastle,whichlies expense accountsandexpectingthefleettobeginsail- was reverentlyknown. on, tryingtoholdhisleadonthe“MightyTi”asshe ing toover30knots,hehadhiscrewpileeverything est cutterinthefleet, ter andavengethisaffront.Nowheskipperedthelarg- Isaacks hadscouredtheSouthforafastboattochar- the boatoutfromunderhim.Havingtoscramble, tually addtohisfortunebyrentingcars)hadbought only monthsbeforethestart,Hertz(whowouldeven- ta andhadracedhertotwofirsts,in’50’51,but Isaacks normallychartered ers builtseparation.Forsomethiswaspersonal.Hub canvas wasrunuponmanyoftheboats,andlead- on record-breakingrunsinthestormyweather,full battle withthetailgunnersoffleet. Texan crewof Cuban shoresandontrackforarecord finish.The in theFloridaStraits, ter aircrafttocheckonthetrailingandretiringboats the finish. rigorous sport.Theleaders,though,wereflyingto not beallowedtocompeteinsuchadangerousand grabbing or,atworst,affirmingwhywomenshould stories overthewirescallingitahoax,spotlight the 30 knotsoutofthenortheast.Inheavywind,even “schooner weather”hadreturnedwithwindsrisingto had passedthe the Keys.Ineasingairofevening Guard planewasonstationfromanearbyairbasein and forththroughthefleetwhileoverheadaCoast Nemesis 12-mile areaofbuildingseas.TheCoastGuardcutter covered roughly60milesandwerepositionedina of theRaceCommittee. the crewof they wouldcompeteinthisregatta,evenifunofficially, Having trainedformostofayearanddeterminedthat crew tostillnothaveenoughsailingexperience. the RaceCommittee,astheyconsideredall-female —Continuedonnextpage Havana Bay…tonothing. limped backtoFlorida. of Cuba,andthoroughlydefeated, a boltshearedandshelostherforesails. Withinsight heavy canvasinthegale,butloadwas toomuch, match racewith a surprisewelcome Windjammer II It wasthesameonwater.Withmajorstorms In Havana,theAmericanpresswereenjoyingtheir With crewsunderstandingthattheywerepossibly With theCoastGuard’s By midnightthatfirstevening,all30yachtshad As thesunset, Tropicair , nowactingasaconvoyescort,poweredback Tropicair hadcaughtuptoandwasinapitched Doris III bound forHavana—and Tropicair Ticonderoga Ticonderoga Ticonderoga sailedoutofthebayindefiance Ticonderoga , effectivelyconsideringthisa , sparkingaflurryofmedia Nemesis Doris III Ticonderoga . Butbythenextmorning sailed into the finish in sailedintothefinishin , piledonevenmore , andinwindsbuild- busydirectingspot- Doris III was withinsightof forthisregat- turnedand Doris III
OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15
sailed Ben Bow rafted up at rafted up at to take on as Tropicair With every American harbor and had returned harbor and had returned to tie up. airline having cancelled flights in and out of Havana, the US Embassy ordered the Nemesis many of the “racer chas- ers” from the waterfront as possible and return to the United States. With 75 Americans and their luggage packed onboard, she left that afternoon as the women of the into the bay. The into the bay. The Tropicair the docks and the women changed into their matching white had lost her radio in the had lost her Tropicair immediately radioed the still racing immediately Nemesis The As dawn broke at the reception area for the yachts, area for the yachts, As dawn broke at the reception Later that day, a dispatch from a sports reporter festivities were now on the docks of a strategic military now on the docks of a strategic festivities were and troops. flooding with Cuban tanks target that was hotels were already fleeing Havana’s American tourists and the swarming the US Embassy and casinos and nearby airport. yachts and directed them to turn and head back to the them to turn and head yachts and directed doing so. with most of them United States, the Unfortunately, the “skipper- onboard and, unaware, wet conditions Havana. ette” crew continued on to Petersburg was reported the Race Committee from St. that all organized race pro- in a “state of hysteria and Many of the boats were cedure had broken down.” and return to the safety quickly preparing to set sail but several crews want- of the stormy Gulf of Mexico, Even the ed to stay and see the excitement. had opted to take their chances in the safety of the in the safety of the had opted to take their chances crew shirts, red shorts and scarves. They were greeted crew shirts, red shorts and scarves. They were greeted by their fellow racers — and Cuban troops and tanks. Not only had they “unofficially” finished the regatta, but they had sailed into the teeth of a coup d’etat. sent down to cover the race stated, “Some of the yachtsmen are going to leave, and it is very likely that the reception, banquet and entertainment will all be called off. However, the prizes will be given them, pos- sibly this afternoon.” came about in the harbor and ter’s starboard side and the side and the ter’s starboard cheered at what exhausted crew fire- they thought were celebratory works greeting them. However, who had crewmember Moon Baker, World seen heavy action during before, War II less than a decade hit the recognized the sound and directly deck as the gunfire passed the over their heads and peppered had schooner’s sails. The two boats dropped anchor in the bay and the dropped anchor passed the finish buoy just off the cut- passed the finish Ben Bow Nemesis Ben Bow The Coast Guard and the US Embassy were sud- As the (right) headed back out to sea. denly confronted with a serious and chaotic situation with another ten yachts sailing straight into a violent regime change. Furthermore, some crews were already onshore and wives, friends and Race Committee mem- bers who had flown down to Havana for the regatta come between an exchange of fire between combat- ants firing across the narrow bay. Within two min- utes, the sailing in wet and weary from their ordeal but thrilled and weary from their ordeal sailing in wet to be finishing. customarily sailors reported on deck to Coast Guard Castle, heavy flag flying above Morro salute the Cuban sending gun fire swept the vessel, .50-caliber machine this moment, to general quarters. At the cutter’s men the
Ben Bow Windjammer II sailed into the Nemesis , as the bulk of the fleet was set to finish, theof the fleet was set to finish, , as the bulk AM Continued from previous page Continued from Not even race organizers were present to greet them, organizers were present to Not even race Tanks and lorries filled with troops were winding With most of the government buildings, including the government buildings, With most of pose for the press before the start in St. Petersburg s In the days before Lycra suits and crash helmets, the crew of an In the days before Lycra suits and crash helmets, the unidentified center-cockpit ketch (above) and with the Mighty Ti having unexpectedly shaved nearly Ti having unexpectedly with the Mighty However byof the long-standing record. five hours off 1:00 — harbor. Just to her stern was the schooner with her crew from Grosse Point Yacht Club of Detroit, their way through the city streets headed towards the their way through the city streets headed towards the waterfront and the seats of Cuban government. Skirmishes began breaking out throughout Havana as the US Coast Guard cutter harbor of the city of Havana it would behoove a mili- tary junta to ensure these symbols of power were seized first and rapidly. the Presidential Palace, situated around the historic Palace, situated around the Presidential welcoming committee arrived. welcoming committee OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 needless tosay,unique. ing trailsonthenow-sleepingvolcano,andwreckdivinginharboris, the splendidtheatre,youcanvisitlittlevolcanomuseum.Therearehik- Caribbean. Apartfromtheruinsstillscatteredthroughouttown,including lie ontheseabed. vors werelatertakenoffotherburningships.Thewrecksoftheseshipsstill Roddam moved intothebay,destroyingshipsatanchor.Onesteamship, path, reducingSt.Pierretorubbleandcrematingmostofthepeoplealive.It detached itselfandsweptdownonSt.Pierre.Itdestroyedeverythinginits steam grewoutofthesideMt.Peléewithaterrifyingroar,thenslowly by ship. agricultural productswereexportedandconsumergoodsimporteddirectly front; nearlyeverythingandeveryonecamewentbyboat.Rum “the ParisoftheWestIndies”.Themainarteryforthiscitywaswater- and extremelyattractive.Withitstheatergrandparties,itwascalled in MartiniqueandoneofthelargestCaribbean—wasbusy,alive, total populationofMartiniqueatthattime.St.Pierre—thenthelargestcity Pierre. About30,000peoplediedduringtheeruption,aroundasixthof to protecthistoricshipwrecks This isnolongerallowed.Onthemapatright,seeno-anchoringzone,designed January, theyachtsanchoredneardockareinprotectedzone. St. Pierre,Martinique,liesbeneathvolcanicMt.Pelée.Inthephotoabove,takenlast St. Pierre:
Photo by Onne van der Wal — ChrisDoyle Today, St.Pierreisoneofthemostinterestinghistoricalanchoragesin When thevolcanoerupted,aglowingredballofsuperheatedgasand A massiveeruptionofMt.PeléeonMay8th,1902destroyedthecitySt.
YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM DYT Martinique:Tel. +596596741507•E-mail:[email protected] DESTINATIONS NEW RULESIN AN OLD TOWN , withhorriblyburntsurvivors,managedtolimpaway.Afewsurvi- by MarcVerstraeteVandeWeyer —Continuedonnextpage a largeyachttriedtouseitasmooring.Itwasre-installedonSeptember12th. the east.InApril,westyellowmarkerbuoybrokeitschainanddriftedoffafter spéciale of thisprojectatitsbeginning. bay fromtheanchorsandchainsofcruisingyachtssuperyachts.Iwaspart This newsituationismentionedonthechartsandtheirupdates. decree, datedJune2011,isnowactiveandenforcedbythemaritimeaffairspolice. The no-anchoringzoneisdelimitedbyspecialyellowmarkerbuoys( The aimoftheno-anchoringzoneistoprotectmanyhistoricalwrecks The Frenchgovernmenthasestablishedano-anchoringzoneinSt.Pierre. No-Anchoring ZoneProtectsHistoricShipwrecks onthechart)innorth,westandsouth,endofcitydock JUNE, 2014: MARCH, 2014: DECEMBER, 2013: DECEMBER, 2013: DECEMBER, 2013: DECEMBER, 2013: NOVEMBER,2013: MARTINIQUE UPCOMING SAILINGS MARTINIQUE transport foryournextpassage? Why notchoosethe MARTINIQUE offering youtheunbeatableservicedeserve. MARTINIQUE be assmoothandsimplepossible,while MARTINIQUE goal istomakeyouryachtshippingexperience MARTINIQUE world’s mostdesirablecruisinggrounds. Our TOULON hassle-free yachttransportationtothe MARTINIQUE premier yachtlogisticscompany, offering GENOA Dockwise Yacht Transport istheworld’s IN THE SAFEST HANDS! SAFEST THE IN AUCKLAND YOUR YACHT BRISBANE GOLFITO most trustedname PORT EVERGLADES GENOA bouée marque inyacht OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 to noon; do not leave to noon; do not AM . A kiosk is being built in front of the city dock at the marketplace . A kiosk is being built in front of the city dock at the PM to 2:00 . Authors of video and photographic works on wrecks, they are currently . Authors of video and photographic works on wrecks, AM St. Pierre offers no on-dock fuel or water. But both are available within walking St. Pierre offers no on-dock fuel or water. But both Marine/Navy officers, Marc Verstraete and his wife, Nadine, are retired Merchant their aluminum catamaran, The Verstraetes are sailing around the world on On Mondays, there are two large ferryboats going and coming from Fort de France large ferryboats going and coming from Fort de France On Mondays, there are two During high season, from November through May, there can be as many as 95 May, there can be from November through During high season, The Dock right sides of aware that both the left and solid municipal dock. Be There is a large, Above: St. Pierre’s iconic waterfont at sunset Above: St. Pierre’s iconic waterfont Left: The author, at far left, with colleagues in Martinique for Customs and ferry ticketing. The plan is to have a regular ferry service from St. for Customs and ferry ticketing. The plan is to have a Dominica by next season, so Pierre to Fort de France, Les Saintes, Guadeloupe and schedule may vary between yachtsmen should enquire when on site, as the ferry regulated. winter and summer and the dinghy docking might be fresh daily market distance in town, as are all the needed food stores, restaurants, and bread. of the Cousteau team, having teachers and historians. Marc is also a former member discovery missions. been a research and expedition leader for underwater Bonobo of the ships sunk during the working in St. Pierre on a mission involving the history 1902 volcanic eruption. your dinghy there but closer to the ladders near the shore. Please do not lock your din- near the shore. Please do but closer to the ladders your dinghy there no theft problemfor everybody to use! There is ladders; these ladders are ghy to the dock Martinique havethe only thefts from yachts in city is very safe. Virtually in St. Pierre; the actions in St. I have never known of such by other yachtsmen, but been perpetrated If you absolutely feel the need to lock the dinghy, pleasePierre during the past five years. rings available for this purpose all around the dock. use the many stainless steel for its full length from around and Guadeloupe that will use both sides of the dock 11:30 yachts on anchor in St. Pierre. The average is 25 per night. Last season, I counted is 25 per night. Last season, in St. Pierre. The average yachts on anchor in a period of about five months. 3,750 cruisers from around 10:00 used by day-trip catamarans the dock will be on coffre d’amarrage on the chart) but await funding. Meanwhile, large yachts are advised large yachts are advised but await funding. Meanwhile, on the chart) Continued from previous page Continued from You can also anchor on a large shallow plateau south of the bay, which makes a You can also anchor on a large shallow plateau south Anchor as close as possible to the shore in five to eight metres; the holding is very Anchor as close as possible to the shore in five to eight A plan for an official mooring field for other yachts is also included in the overallA plan for an official mooring field for other yachts is Inside the protected zone there are four white mooring buoys ( zone there are four white Inside the protected Anchoring on paper (green and megayachts are special mooring buoys for super- Plans for two longer dinghy trip to town but at least you are well away from the crowd and safe. from the crowd and safe. longer dinghy trip to town but at least you are well away good in sand and mud. Be careful not to anchor deeper than ten metres, as there is good in sand and mud. Be careful not to anchor deeper is almost guaranteed. a steep slope that drops fast to over 30 metres and dragging the boats in all directions, At night the winds might drop and the current will move of swinging room. so make sure that you and your neighbors have plenty project, but has encountered heavy opposition from local fishermen. Meanwhile, cruis- project, but has encountered heavy opposition from local the protected zone, as thereing yachts are legally allowed to anchor anywhere outside has been the cause of frictionis no official zone reserved for fishermen. However, this way of fishing activities. If youbetween yachts and fishermen when yachts get in the the emergency police number,have real trouble with a fisherman, stay calm and call on VHF channel 16. 17, on a local phone or call the coast guard (CROSS-AG) — to anchor south or north of the protected zone. to anchor south or north of coffer megaship the chart) for the exclusive use of dive boats. These are for use by the local Martinique These are for use by the exclusive use of dive boats. the chart) for the of one dive only. or small boat for the time or cruisers with a dinghy dive operators The maxi- as overnight or day moorings. buoys are NOT to be used These mooring These mooring is 12 metres or six tons. boats using the dive moorings mum size for wrecks. near the most important buoys are placed OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 there. Butwaitlongenoughandfairwindswillcomesoitproved knots inthe“typicallywindyareaofColombia”thatwewonderedifwe’deverget gave thegreenlight.We’dbecomesousedtohearinghisdailyreportof30-plus our heelsinbothCuraçaoandArubauntilCaribbeanweatherguruChrisParker colonial cityofCartagena? Panama Canal.Whodoesn’twanttoexplorethespectacularlyrestoredSpanish ing, andthelongdinghyrideashoreapain. but glowing,sayingthemarinawasoldandrough,boatwakeconstantannoy- net andwererelievedwhentheymadeittoCartagena,exhaustedbutunscathed. and morethan40knotsofwind.WelistenedanxiouslyforthemonourmorningSSB Pacific andAtlanticOceans,theystrucktheirworstseasever,withfive-metreswells had alovelyrunfromArubain20knots. Sierra Nevadamountainrangeinthebackground Above: ThesafeandsecureSantaMartaMarinainColombiawiththepicturesque However gettingtherecanbeabittrickyandmyhusband,David,Ihadtocool Colombia isanobviousstopoverforsailorsheadingfromtheABCislandsto Cartagena wasourplanneddestinationaswell,buttheirreportswereanything Friends weren’tquitesolucky.SeasonedKiwisailorswhohadalreadycrossedthe Colombia’s Perfect by BrendaWebb Right: KiwisailorsMarkFarrell,AmandaChurchandDavidMorganoutside the rusticcoffeeshopinColombianmountainvillageofMinca, Pit Stop an easydaytripfromSantaMarta
DESTINATIONS
Bandit MORGAN DAVID PHOTOS: ALL —Continuedonnextpage and modernshowerscheapwashingmachinesdriers. English-speaking agent(arrangedbythemarina)andgreatfacilitiesincludingclean helpful English-speakingstaff,arelativelypainlesscheck-inprocedurethroughan had everythingcruisersneed—asafeandsecuremarinawithefficient,friendly So weoptedforthecityofSantaMartainsteadanditprovedaperfectpitstop.It Santa Marta % # " "
! !! # $ ! & 1$23)34//*-.5,3 $23)34)3,-'333 %&'()'(*&(*&&+%,-./,&&*(/(. ' () ( ! "" # " $ 0 0" $ )* ! ( '
OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 , who were and in the sti- Balvenie Bandit — unbelievably, stays more than — unbelievably, Bandit Complicated formalities curtailed our stay in Colombia curtailed our stay Complicated formalities Our agent organized everything for us, albeit at a hefty Our agent organized everything to base ourselves and we Santa Marta was a great spot easy, although we cursed Travelling in Colombia was Inland Adventure One of our best adventures was a trip to the coffee Sitting in the beat-up Chevette with mismatched the San Blas and enjoyed it. the San Blas involved more any longer would have to ten days — we had to tem- paperwork. As it was, expense and more porarily import five days require that. five days require many Latin American coun- fee, and it seemed, as in so way to do things. He did an tries, that this was the only around for us with end- enormous amount of running to less visits to officials and back to pay him to do so. In the fling heat we were happy a huge cost. Often such situ- scheme of things it wasn’t check updated information ations and costs are fluid, so before you go. other foreign boats in the were surprised to see so few one of the Caribbean’s marina. Admittedly it’s not facilities, helpful staff and cheapest marinas but the make up for that. security measures more than learn it until later in the our lack of Spanish (we didn’t stuttered our way through season in Guatemala). As we friendly taxi driver we a few basics with a particularly a better grasp. kicked ourselves for not having (and apparently cocaine) growing area of Minca in the Sierra Nevada mountains. It took a bit of effort to get there but was well worthwhile. The aforementioned taxi we ride took us to the other side of Santa Marta to what thought was a bus station. No — just more taxis, even more run down than the city one we’d just used. That may have been an isolated incident, as the Colombian Coast Guard does as the Colombian Coast been an isolated incident, That may have shop — well, they do grow Minca was a sleepy village but it had a fantastic coffee with us in Santa Marta, did spend time in the Rosario Archipelago on their way to in the Rosario Archipelago Marta, did spend time with us in Santa regular patrols, but much of the nice anchoring area was farther west than we anchoring area was farther but much of the nice regular patrols, and Mark Farrell on Fellow Kiwis Amanda Church planned to go. and a driver with slick doors, leaking windows (we were there in rainy season) right decision. We tore our shades and a heavy foot, we wondered if we’d made the hearts in mouths. way up the rutted, metal road through the rainforest heat in Santa Marta and it here. It was a wonderful relief to get out of the intense name, though, and our after- up into the cool air of the rainforest. It lived up to its rain. One advantage — noon hike to the waterfalls was curtailed due to torrential as torrents of water made the the rain did slow our driver down on the return trip road treacherous. 32 —Continued on page Continued from previous page Continued from Plans were to explore Cartagena and Santa Marta by land and then provision and Plans were to explore Cartagena and Santa Marta by We had considered stopping at several anchorages before Santa Marta, however the We had considered stopping at several anchorages before Excellent provisioning was only a few blocks away at a modern supermarket while away at a modern supermarket was only a few blocks Excellent provisioning The lovely beach retreat of Taganga is a scenic bus ride from Santa Marta; we opted not to anchor there The lovely beach retreat of Taganga is a scenic bus ride head out to an anchorage for a few days, but our helpful agent put paid to that, head out to an anchorage for a few days, but our helpful anchoring. We’d also heard pointing out the long-winded formalities necessary for after we left Santa Marta for about a few security incidents and, in fact not long Marta) was boarded and Providencia, a yacht anchored in Taganga Bay (near Santa the occupants robbed. weather window dictated otherwise and we headed straight for sheltered Santa Marta. weather window dictated otherwise and we headed straight showed gusts of up to 30 knots As we dropped our mainsail in the bay the wind gauge — we’d made it in the nick of time. the street markets had fantastic fresh and cheap produce including wonderfully and cheap produce including had fantastic fresh the street markets persimmons. juicy mangos and delicious creamy avocados, — OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 yacht, soweaskedaroundandfoundanotherAustralianyachtwhosecrewagreed others whohadtransitedthecanalafewyearsagobyraftingupnexttoanother to anotheryachttransitthe28milesacrosslake.Wehadhearddirectlyfrom that wecouldrent,butnonebefound. “This won’twork,”wetoldthem.Theguyslookednextdayforasmalleroutboard destabilized oursternwithitsheavyweightplacedoff-centertoavoidthewindvane. of fiddlingwithropesandplywood,theoutboardwassomewhatattached,butit a makeshiftwoodenbracket.No,noholes!Theremustbeanotherway.Afteranhour 15-horsepower outboardengine,planningtodrillholesin iliary enginethatcouldmakeaminimumoffiveknots. engine, werelabeledasa“navigationalthreat”,andinstructedtofindanaux- updated formwithourboatdetailsandsaidhewouldbeintouchagent. well andtoconfirmthatwehadbeenonseatrialswiththemechanic,thensignedan transit theCanal.Anotheradmeasurercametocheckthatourenginewasfunctioning reliability ofourengine. cruisers asthe“EngineWhisperer”)inendwefelt100-percentconfidentof family, currentlyworkingfreelanceforthemarinaandknownaffectionatelybylocal motor. ThankstoGreg(aCanadianaircraftengineercruisingonayachtwithhis Marina andnothalfwaythroughthecanal. again. WeknewhowfortunateweweretodiscovertheproblematShelterBay three andhalfknotswithourownengine—onceitwasingoodrunningcondition assuring usthatarrangementscouldbemadeforifwemaintainthreeto moment tomeasureourboatandsignthecertificatewithShipIDfortransit, completely failedtostart.Asluckwouldhaveit,theadmeasurerarrivedatthat around foramechanicandGregcameoverrightaway.Atthatpointourengine came onwhilereturningtoourberthfromhaulingoutattheboatyardsoweasked of howwewouldmanagethetransit.Ourfirstsetbackoccurredwhenouroillight engine) weneededonboard.Thecanaltransitcaughtuscompletelybysurprise. to livewithourpreferencesashowmuchmodernequipment(suchapowerful tries, movingonwhennewhorizonscaughtourimagination.Sofarwehadbeenable has beenourhomefornearly25years.PhilCookandIhaveworkedinmanycoun- Canal transit. by DiKilbride
[email protected] www.barefootyachts We askedouragentforanothersolution.suggestedthepossibilityofraftingup The nextdayseveralguysfromtheportauthoritycamedownwithafisherman’s Then thenightmarebegan.Wewererefusedacanaltransitwithuseofourown But Wait… Elated withourrebuiltengine,wecontactedagenttomakearrangements We endedupwithacompleterebuildofoureight-horsepowerYanmarinboard We hadanenginethatseemedreliablebutveryslow,sowewerealreadyabitwary Unexpected EngineRebuild Our 28-footCompass, Nothing feelsquiteasblissfulbeingsafelyatanchorafteradrama-filledPanama thatCould! Panama CanalTransit: Since 1984 The LittleBoat BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL Matira
Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 , anAustralian-designedfull-keeled,fiberglasssloop, POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters Matira’s transomtoattach —Continuedonnextpage along toentertainusintheevening. keen toexperiencethecanaltransit.Moreimportantly,Bethbroughtherguitar a Kiwicrewonanotherboat,Beth,whohadplentyofboatingexperienceandwas from us.BothspokeEnglishandhadpriorcanaltransitexperience.Ourthirdwas Nikka wasayoungGermanwomanwhohadjustboughtboatfewberthsdown 62-year-old Panamanianwithplentyofexperiencecrewingonyachtdeliveriesand would betested. important hisadvicewasaboutthepowertomaneuverifrequiredandhowoftenwe — wewereonourway.Littledidrealizeuntiltheactualtransitoccurredhow available andreducetheamountoftirestokeep minimum offiveknots. agreed, allofusknowingthatthiswasahugecompromisetothenormallystrict our minimumspeedtofourpointtwoontheform.Theportcaptainhesitatedthen ly fourandahalfknots”withhernewlyrebuiltengineaskedifwecouldchange circumstances aswellthedangertootherboatsandships. danger ofenginefailureandtheconsequencesbeingfinedtowedinthese currents inthelocksbecauseofhugeamountswaterbeingdisplaced,or wake oftugboatsandshipspassingusinthechannelacrosslake,strong tain aminimumspeedatalltimestodealwithadversecurrents,theunpredictable able tomaneuverappropriately,warningusofthedangersnotbeingmain- explained thatatthreetoandahalfknotsourboatwasriskofnotbeing might beouronlyopportunitytogetapprovalforthetransit.Theportcaptain thetic andyacht-friendly”portcaptain,makingcertainthatweunderstoodthis ever transitthePanamaCanal,thisyearoranysubsequentyear. captains toseewhatsolutionwecouldfind.Otherwisehadnoideahowwould We askedouragenttoarrangeameetingforuswithhimselfandoneoftheport day totransitthesecondsetoflocks.Nodeal,saidcanalauthority. a nightatthefarendoflakeand,bypayingheftydelayfee,takinganextra approve totowusacrossGatunLake.Thatoptionwasrefused. our problembuttheportauthorityrefusedtoconsiderthisoptionanymore. to helpusoutifourcanaldatecoincidedwiththeirs.Wethoughtthiswouldsolve because ofthedebrisfromexcavations and ‘down’locksofthecanal.BananaCutiscurrentlyofflimitstomostboats Above: MotorsailingthroughBananaCutinGatunLake,locatedbetweenthe‘up’ Top left:Thecanaltransitcrewon As perinstructions,wefoundthreeideallightweightlinehandlers.Tomáswasa We signedtherevisedform,shookhandsandheadedbacktomarina.Yippee He thensuggestedwithachucklethatwemightwanttofindthelightestlinehandlers In amomentofgeniusPhilandIsuggestedthat Our agentsetupameetingwithmanwhomheclaimedwasthemost“sympa- A WayForward? We werecompletelyshatteredandfeltthatwehadbeenlabeledasaproblemboat. Our agentandanotherhadalsomentionedanoptionofbeingabletoanchor Our agentsuggestedhewouldlookforalaunchthattheportauthority Matira beforeleavingShelterBayMarina Matira’s Matira extra weight to a minimum. extraweighttoaminimum. couldnowmaintain“near- .com OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware to the starboard lock wall to wait for transit (again) so we were re-scheduled transit (again) so we were re-scheduled PM off at the bow with all their strength until Matira Matira on the daily schedule, even though Tomás spoke on the daily schedule, even Matira against the buoys and our port toe-rail cracked slightly and our port toe-rail against the buoys e-mail: [email protected] Matira Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear . Already we could feel things were taking a turn for the worse. . Already we could feel things rolled around and still no advisor. We called our agent, asking where the rolled around and still no PM AM By sunset, a security boat came up to say that we couldn’t stay on the mooring say that we couldn’t stay on security boat came up to By sunset, a Day Three: More Challenges thrilled to have a leisurely start to the day. However, On the third morning we were After a two-hour wait at the tug wharf, the advisor set us up for a port-side tie up After a two-hour wait at the tug wharf, the advisor set showed us to a double buoy where ships usually tie up. Later in the day the wake usually tie up. Later in the a double buoy where ships showed us to from a tug shoved so grateful to it negligible damage, just At this point we considered from the impact. the canal. be transiting why the advisor down. We wondered to the anchorage a bit farther and showed us to be at anchor. it was much more peaceful there in the first place as didn’t take us with stars glit- the lake under a clear sky happy for a second night on Everyone was added bonuses lucked out with all the We felt we had really tering like diamonds. effort to get this far. after such an 10:00 for 3:25 advisor was. We let him know that we phoned the transit office and they appeared that we phoned the transit office and they appeared advisor was. We let him know not to recognize the name Spanish with the woman on the other end of the line. Eventually at noon an advisor the other end of the line. Eventually at noon an advisor Spanish with the woman on He later we were not scheduled on the roster that day. showed up, who admitted for the 12:50 advised that we would be late to the tug we would go alongside in Pedro Miguel lock. However the tug was still to the tug we would go alongside in Pedro Miguel lock. the same lock, so the advisor maneuvering a ship that would follow behind us in made a poor judgment call for us to tie bow line but we didn’t real- the tug. We had been asked only to prepare a starboard consideration the wind and ize at that time why he wanted it. He had not taken into line to the lock attendant on current pushing us forward, so when we threw the bow being shoved into the wall as the wall the stern kicked 90 degrees and our bow was post. Phil and I attempt- the lock attendant attached the bow line to a large Samson lock attendant while our ed to set up and throw a starboard stern line to another three line handlers were fending the bow line was loosened and at the same time we hit reverse hard to kick us back the bow line was loosened and at the same time we hit for the lock handler to from the wall. Eventually the boat swung around enough facing forward. A very close attach the stern line we had thrown to him to keep us call. The advisor just expected us to use a bow line and kick in reverse to keep us in place! Had we even known he would suggest doing this, we would have handled the situation differently. Another reason for a strong engine. —Continued on page 34 Beth plays guitar while Phil cooks breakfast and Tomás assists Beth plays guitar while Phil cooks breakfast and Tomás . PM Fax: (758) 452 0311 FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils
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(we think this was significant later). He was keen AM
Continued from previous page Continued from We separated after the three locks and tied up to a mooring ball around 8:00 We separated after the three locks and tied up to a mooring Heading into the first lock we knew we were due for a thunderstorm. Heavy clouds Heading into the first lock we knew we were due for a Into the Canal at Last where we waited for the The engine performed well heading across to The Flats, Transiting from the Atlantic side requires an overnight stay in the lake, so two an overnight stay in the the Atlantic side requires Transiting from One More Night Since we wouldn’t make the second set of locks on time, we were given special All too quickly we reached the Culebra Cut where sail was prohibited and our All too quickly we reached the Culebra Cut where sail Next morning we were up early for the advisor, who showed up 45 minutes later Next morning we were up early for the advisor, who
Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
followed by rain, lightning and loud booms accompanied us through the locks as followed by rain, lightning and loud booms accompanied to a large catamaran with two night fell but we weren’t concerned. We were rafted up steering station than we did. powerful engines and he had better visibility from his advisor to join us for the few miles motoring to reach the Gatun Locks, a series of advisor to join us for the few miles motoring to reach into Gatun Lake. three chambers to raise vessels a total of 85 feet to exit Having sundowners on the ship mooring buoys in Gamboa at the end of the second Having sundowners on the ship mooring buoys in Gamboa day — before being sent off to anchor advisors are required to make the entire crossing and allowance had to be made for crossing and allowance had to make the entire advisors are required on a 28-foot people. This was a challenge eating arrangements for five sleeping and solutions. up with some very creative boat but we came — permission to stay in Gamboa for the night, seven miles from the locks. The advisor speed dropped substantially as we zigzagged, following the channel, with wind and speed dropped substantially as we zigzagged, following in to learn that we had a current against us at times. At 11:30 the advisor radioed 20 minutes to make the last 12:50 lock transit, which gave us only an hour and have made it, but we were seven miles. Maybe with the extra 45 minutes we might passing us, and wind on the slowed by adverse currents, the wake of tugs and ships so insistent on maintaining a nose. We now understood why the port captain was minimum speed across the lake. for us to make the “down” locks that day, so he chose to take the Banana Cut. Not for us to make the “down” locks that day, so he chose part of the lake, but we only did we get a rare glimpse of a different and beautiful wind was on the nose for the also got permission to put up all sail to help us! The channel where we motor- narrow cut, slowing us down a bit until we joined the main convinced that we were sailed with full sails under a light, steady southeast breeze, making up for the slow start. than the scheduled time of 6:00 Beth played for us after dinner, celebrating our departure from the Caribbean under Beth played for us after dinner, celebrating our departure Nikka and Beth had brought a clearing sky before we tucked into bed for the night. our weather cloths across the along a tarpaulin that we attached in the cockpit from against rain while they were top of our sailing canopy to form a kind of tent to guard cabin and Phil and I had our sleeping. Tomás slept on the double settee in the main to get some sleep, aware bed in the forepeak. All very cozy and everyone was happy 28-mile lake with our little that the next day would bring a long trek across the engine moving us along slowly but surely. OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 or theCanaries. sea roombeforeheadingsouthwestwardtoMadeira your waywelltothewestgiveyourselfplentyof on agoodweatherreportfromGibraltar,andwork of Africahasvirtuallynoharboursrefuge.Takeoff some badsouthwestblows,andthenorthwestcoast your weatherreport—inNovemberyoucanruninto October andNovember. increase drasticallyaftermid-September,through Europe bySeptember,asthegalefrequenciesthere will showwhyyoushouldhavegottenoutofNorthern Imray-Iolaire NorthAtlanticPassageChart100.These easy sailingtotheCaribbean. Madeira. Oncethereitisbasicallyalldownhilland Atlantic isgettingfromEuropetotheCanariesor corrected fromthefirsttrial.Etcetera. home againandrectifyanydeficienciesthatarestillnot blow, whichyouwillbemuchbetterpreparedfor.Go in andrectifythedeficiencies.Thengooutasecond deficiencies ineitherboatorcrew.Takeyourback through, takeyourboatoutforasailandascertainany still inyourhomewaters,whenagoodhardblowcomes passage foryouoryourboat,dosomerehearsals:While pared tofaceheavyweather.Ifthiswillbethefirstocean lightly undertaken.Yourboatandcrewmustbepre- If youareleavingfromGibraltar,carefullycheck Take alookattheweatherchartsonbackof The hardestpartofsailingwestwardacrossthe A passageacrosstheAtlanticOceanisnotatriptobe Westward Across is atradition,infamilyboating is atradition,infamilyboating the Atlantic SAILING DIRECTIONSBYDONSTREET Quinta doLordemarinathreemileseastofCanical. ed, andafewmileswestofthere,onecanfindthe secluded anchorageinBaiaD’Abra.Itisusuallydesert- can anchoroff.InMadeiraonefindawonderful there mayberoomintheharbouratmarina,oryou Verdes, andoneonNovember24th,bounddirectfor this year,oneonNovember10th,boundfortheCape after theARCdeparts.Thewillhavetwostarts forget aboutgoingtoLasPalmas,GranCanaria,until joining theARCrally(www.worldcruising.com/arc), nas areusuallychock-a-blockfull.Unlessyou that therearerelativelyfewanchoragesandthemari- ft hCiildi ill i C th t ti If In the Madeiran Archipelago island of Porto Santo, In theMadeiranArchipelagoislandofPortoSanto, Madeira andtheCanaries If youcontinueontotheCanarieswilldiscover ‘From Brava to Antigua you willhavesome glorious sailing’ glorious Close to: what wedoandthewayit...... THE DIFFERENCEIS ofSSCA • OfficialCruisingStation • CameraSurveillance 24HourSecurity • WholeAreaPatrolledby isourPrimaryConcern • Safety,CleanlinessandService onDock“A” DeliveredonallSlipsexcept • On-SiteFuelDockandDiesel • WideConcreteFingerPiers • 282FixedSlips • ProfessionalandCourteousStaff Fajardo, PuertoRico Parcelas Beltrán,Bo.Sardinera, E: T: F: from theCapeVerdestoEasternCaribbean. Cape Verdes,enjoythecruisingthere,andthencross Atlantic youshouldgofromtheCanariesdownto off spottocrosstheAtlantic. tered coveonthesouthwestcorner,aperfectjumping- an excellentharboronthenortheastsideandashel- (and thelocaldamsels!).ThenontoBrava,whichhas count whoarrivedinthe1880sandcultivatedgrapes red-haired CapeVerdeansdescendedfromaFrench mean. ThenvisitFogo,withitscolonyofblue-eyed, enced sailor—checkGoogleEarthandseewhatI dozen unexploredanchoragesavailabletotheexperi- replaced orrepaired. three weeksanythingbrokenonayachtcanbe wonderful atimprovisation;hefeelsthatwithin repair. KaialsopointsouttheCapeVerdeansare with repairservices,electronics,riggingandsail has a120-berthmarina(www.marinamindelo.net) Portuguese architecture.AGerman,KaiBrossman, beach), andSãoVicenteitsportcityofMindelo. uninhabited islandwithathree-mile-longwhitesand then saildownwindtoSãoNicolau,Sta.Luzia(an avoided. LandfallshouldbeIsleSaltocheckin,and trades havefilledinandlate-seasonhurricanesare Verdes, andcrossingtheAtlanticinJanuarywhen Sincerity them via“thebigbird”in2002,andagain2005on 1989 andpreferredthemtotheCanaries.Irevisited Hiero andGomera. Canaries arethethreewesternmostislands:Palma, gear andequipmentisinTenerife. industry andmakegoodanydeficienciesdiscoveredin islands’ bestinfrastructuretosupporttheyachting Puerto Calerawherespacemightbeavailable.The St. Lucia. or attheAdministrationOfficeMarina, open 7daysaweekfrom8:00amto4:00pm ¡ [email protected] 787.863.5282 787.863.0313 I amstronglyoftheopinionthatwhencrossing Across thePond After Mindelo,sailsouthtoSantiago,whichhasa Mindelo iswonderful,withbeautifulcolonial I recommendspendingDecemberexploringtheCape We visitedtheCapeVerdeson The CapeVerdes In theopinionofmany,nicestislandsin There isamarinaatRubicononLanzarote,plus VISIT US! our webpage and bepartofourfamily. , an88-footketch. Join ustoday AMENITIES www.sunbaymarina.com • AmpleParking Located1/2mileAwaybyDinghy • USCustomandImmigration ElConquistadorHotelandCasino ElegantRestaurantssuchas • NearSmallEateriesandUpscale ConvenienceStore • NearbyShip'sChandleryand • LaundryFacilities • RestroomsandShowers • WaterandElectricity andWi-Fi • ComplementaryCableTV at —Continued onnextpage Fajardo Iolaire in1985and , OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Compass. This article is updated from a version that appeared • Imray-Iolaire E4: Arquipelago de Cabo Verde. • Imray C20: Gibraltar to Azores and Canaries • Imray C20: Pto de la E2: Islas Canarias. Plans: • Imray-Iolaire Plans: E3: Arquipelago da Madeira. • Imray-Iolaire in the November 2009 issue of Plans: Pto da Furna, Pto Grande, Pto de Sal-Rei, Pto Plans: Pto da Furna, Pto Grande, Pto de Sal-Rei, Pto Novo, Pto da Praia, Cavaleiras, Pto Velho, Bahia da Palmeira Luz, Pto de los Marmoles and Pto de Naos, Pto de San Marmoles and Pto de Naos, Luz, Pto de los Pesquera de Santa Cruz, Darsena Sebastian, Pto Pto de la de Tenerife), Morro Jable, (Santa Cruz Estaca do Funchal Pto Santo, Pto
was published The comprehensive Boat preparation and sailing directions westward It should be noted that a southwester could settle in that a southwester could It should be noted I recommend the following charts for a westward across the Atlantic are covered in more detail in my across the Atlantic are covered in more detail in my Transatlantic Crossing Guide. in heavy weather for the first three or four days of their for the first three or four in heavy weather a delightful crossing, rather than having transatlantic the way. sleigh ride all of boats that periods. In 2002 dozens for even longer down to the were driven all the way left the Canaries up fuel and/ where they stopped to pick Cape Verdes, east. wind to go around to the or wait for the Street’s Guide to the Cape Verde Islands in 2011. Both are available at online booksellers. transatlantic crossing: Avoid a heavy bash to weather by waiting out any winds from the southwest Avoid a heavy bash to weather by waiting out any winds , 46 feet on deck, has sailed three times from , 46 feet on deck, has sailed Continued from previous page Continued from Iolaire Southwest Winds If you look at the weather charts, you will note that While there are several good harbors with interesting While there are several good The reason I say this is because the Great Circle say this is because the Great The reason I in November in the Canaries, there is a southwest in November in the Canaries, there is a southwest arrow. If the wind goes round to the southwest, you should sit in the Canaries and wait until it goes back around to the easterly quadrant. It can blow south- west for two or three days and blow hard. The ARC has discovered this occasionally, when participants were discouraged to discover they were beating to windward towns and villages ashore, the Cape Verdes are not the towns and villages ashore, are unreliably charted Virgin Islands. The coastlines do offer the yachtsman and underdeveloped, but they and eyeball navigation who is skilled in coastal piloting to wander off the beaten a wonderful opportunity Verdes and then take off track. You can enjoy the Cape island where the Yankee from Brava, a wonderful little From there to Antigua whalers used to pick up crew. in the deep tradewinds, (2,175 miles) you are down sailing as the course is a and will have some glorious the tradewinds are a little little bit north of west and rig your spinnaker pole bit north of east. You can to be used to wing semi-permanently out to starboard, or for your spinnaker out the jib if it is blowing hard, if the wind goes light. the Cape Verdes to the islands of the Eastern Caribbean — in 14 days and some hours in 1949, under gaff rig when owned by R.H. “Bobby” Sommerset; then in 1985 and 1989 under my command as a double- headsail Marconi yawl. On all three trips the spinna- ker pole was rigged to starboard and left up there for the entire trip. No gybing! route from the Canaries is 2,535 miles, but this route Canaries is 2,535 miles, route from the plenty of be sailed by boats that have can really only crew that is lightweight fliers with a fuel and/or are spinnakers lot of sail changing, setting willing to do a is to head The more traditional route and the like. to 20°N, the Canaries, at least down southwest from This route — about 2,615 miles. and then across so why not close to the Cape Verdes, brings you quite Cape Verdes? It is only sail from the Canaries to the tradewinds down the 780 miles, with guaranteed African coast. — OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 up, ormakenewplans. from Januaryon,therewillbefewerand fewerboatscrossingtheocean.Somegive to theboat’skittywayabovevoyage cost: tento40eurosperday.Furthermore, for ananswer.Therearecaptainswhotake theopportunitytoaskforacontribution discovery, ofadventure.” who stayaroundthemarinabars.Ina way,backpackersbringbackthespiritof up withtravelers.Nowadaysthemajority ofsailorsarepeopleonholidayorretired, before thereweremainlyadventurers.The CanariesandtheCaribbeanwerefilled brother inGuadeloupe.“Eveniftherewerealwaystherich,withbeautifulboats, seas wasbroughtuponasailingyacht,andisnowlookingforboattojoin his ing milieutootherpeople,”Quentinsays.Longloosehair,thislittleMowgliof the were wayfewerpeople.Ithinkit’sgreatthattherearesomany,itopensupthesail- uncle usedtohitchboats.Butitwasdifferent:mainlyamongsailors;there where therearesailingboats,andisnotarecentphenomenon.“Mydad my middle-class andmoneylesspeople....” There arepeopleofallnationalities,oldandyoung,moreorlesshippies,rich, month. “Weallhavesomethingincommon,butendlessdifferentlifestories. bad weathertodiscoverSouthAmerica,thesearchhasbeengoingonfor a of backpackers.Wesaid“Wow,we’llneverbeabletofindaboat’.” because everyonetalksaboutit.Butaswearrivedwereshocked:theretons ally leadthemtoCuba.“Weknewithadbecomesuperpopularoverthelastyears, Austrian girl.Withherpartner,Adrien,sheisundertakingatripwhichwilleventu- pretty crazy.IthasbecometheMeccaofboathitching,”saysManon,ablue-eyed ocean. Andit’shere,intheCanaries,thatalltheirpathscross.“LasPalmas is show upbythemarinasofCascais,Gibraltar,Brittany,tolookforaliftcross the chance oftraveling.” I’ll lookforaboattoheadsomewhereelse.’Andifyouhavenomoney,itgives going forabigtrip.Hitchhiking,youaresuperfree.Atanytimecansay,‘Today she studiedliterature,Barcelona,wheregrewup.“Ihadthisideaofleaving, eyes staringattheothersideofocean,shewastiredbigcities:Paris,where helm, cooking...”,Berta,a22-year-oldfromCatalunya,explains.Shorthair,shining aboard, inexchangeforhelpingoutthenavigation,doingsmalltasks,taking pen tobecrossingtheocean?Needsomecrew?” along thedocks,theyswimovertoanchoredboats:“Goodmorning!Doyouhap- carrying theirbackpacksandmusicalinstrumentsaround.Theywalkformiles Palmas, amongthemajorityofpoloshirtsandleathershoes,thereareyoungpeople the shoresofCanaryIslandsareboilingwithyachts.NexttomarinaLas populating amilieuthatfordecadeshasgatheredrichelitesandcrazytravelers. take themtotheothersideofocean.Hereisaportraitnewnomadtribe, Canaries ortheCapeVerdes.Theylookforalift:liftonsailingboat,whichwould year, hundredsofbackpackersshowupinthemarinasPortugal,Spain, Inset:ThewallsofabarinthebiggestmarinaEasternCaribbea ‘Looking forboat’—Alexis,BertaandFlorianstandingnexttothedinghydock,waitingyachtownerspassby “Even iftherearesomanypeople,thesearch doesn’tbecomecompetitive;thereis The questisn’talwaysasmoothandeasy roadtogo.Onelearnshowtakeno The “bateaustop”,asitwasbaptizedinFrench,isdoneanywheretheworld For AlexisandFlorian,28-24-year-oldbrotherswhoescapedfromParis’s Every year,bythistime,therearehundredsofyoungbackpackerslikeBerta,who “Hitching boatsisaboutgoingtoaskboatownersiftheywouldliketakeyou It’s theendofcycloneseasoninAtlantic,beginningcrossingseason: November 2012,longitude15°west Their travelingflowslikethewindsandtides.Theyrefuseairplane.Every —Continuedonnextpage were allafraidofhisintenseemotional fluctuations”. a richFrenchbusinessman,whoturned outtobe“aquitedictatorialcaptain”:“we Alexis confesseswithasmile,“everyoneendsuphavinghisluckyday.” doubts, skillsandknowledge.Likethetideswinds,theyletlifeflow.“And,” enabling ittohostthosewhoneed.Theysharecigarettesandsongs,dreams doned hotelinLasPalmas,andbroughtitbacktolifewithacollectivemanagement, boat’,” AlexisandFloexplain.Dozensofyoungtravelerssquattedinahugeaban- a lotofmutualhelp.Everyonesharestheirplans:‘gothere,thereisthisandthat one’s service.”SheandAdrien,withother of spendingsomuchtimetogetherinsuch aconfinedspace,andtobeatsome- ing theworld’sroads,remindsusthat in aboat“thereisthepsychologicalaspect little hut.It’sfullofphotos,books,travel stories.”Manon,whoisusedtohitchhik- when Ihitchhikeonaroad,”Bertatells. “Toentersomeone’sboatistohis ing LasPalmas.Tomoveon,toleaveEurope!” Alexissays.“It’sajoyIdon’thave shorts allsoaked,thefoodturningintosoup.Justhappy,likechildren.” notice comesthetorrentialrain.“Thereweremainedforhalfanhour,T-shirt and replaced bytherisingsun.Theimmensebluetakesoverlandscape.Without and aspecialmeal.TheCapeVerdeislandshavedisappearedinthehorizon,slowly them aboardareallsittingonthedeck,speciallydecorated.Thereisbirthdaycake missed bysomemonths.ThetwobrothersandtheretiredFrenchcouplewhotook by Francisco Pedro THE WIND HITCHING “The voyagestartsrightawaywiththejoy ofhavingfoundaboat,finallyleav- Alexis hadpicturedhimselfinLatinAmericabyhisbirthday.Thepredictionwas December 2012,longitude30°west of adventure,’saysQuentin ‘In away,backpackersbringbackthespiritofdiscovery, n arecoveredwithnotices bateaustopeurs , hoppedontheyachtof — Continued from previous page place aboard. It’s a meeting point for those who were able to reach this side of the As with most of those who hitch a crossing, none of them had ever sailed before. “I Atlantic, a stage for enthusiastic meetings among bateaustopeurs who had met in the knew absolutely nothing. Not even if I’d be seasick or not. It’s a whole new thing, from Canaries, the Cape Verdes, other Caribbean islands, weeks or months before. They A to Z, and it’s really exciting,” Manon says. They discover Tabarly and Moitessier, share hugs and crossing stories. and the great sailors inspire them. The experience awakens a passion — sometimes There is Jean François, a 70-year-old Swiss guitar player and geologist, a boat a passion for life. hitching veteran. The two young guys from Quebec, who, without ever having sailed before, find out that they’re better sailors than their captain, who ends up leaving them the boat and the money to take it up to Canada. There’s Pat, Australian descendent of the famous mutineers of the Bounty, who took 15 backpackers on his catamaran. There is Julien, musician and clown tired of a life touring around Europe, who wants to cruise the Amazon in a canoe — on his own. Berta joined Alexis and Flo. It has been two months they’re exploring Martinique. They set up a small hut on the way out of the marina. They make handicrafts out of local seeds, which they sell to the tourists. They live off the food thrown away by supermarket chains and charter companies. They are looking for a boat that will take them to Venezuela or Colombia. “It’s not because you don’t have a lot of money that you can’t do endless things. But you must dare to. You must not be ashamed of scavenging supermarket bins, cooking meals out of dumpster-dived vegetables, sleeping on beaches or at the house of a random person who invites you over.” “People here got used to the idea that white people are tourists, and they see you right away as a wallet. I am, rather, looking for the contact with people, or simply with the space and the possibilities it offers. Agriculture, fishing — all of that inter- ests me. I want to explore how it is done here. While loads of tourists just come to disconnect from their work,” Berta adds, “the fact that you don’t have a lot of money, that you are seen this way, sleeping on the beach, brings you closer to the people here. It would be very different if I would show up with my 4x4 and my clothes a hundred dollars each.” “People who flew over, you’ve got the impression that they didn’t even get to come down from their plane, to realize they are here. We sail and take the waves in a freer rhythm, closer to the culture of the Caribbean,” Adrien says. “To arrive in the Caribbean by plane,” the young architect adds, “is as if you would come in by the chimney. The door here is the sea!” Manon and Adrien met Quentin and together have embraced an unexpected adventure: together they bought an old sailing boat. They explore nearby sinking boats to recover all kinds of objects. From supermarket dumpsters, they fill up on provisions. Although they have zero money, they overflow in excitement.
Today is Manon’s birthday and it is their first trip, along Martinique’s coast. The OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 debut gathers Alexis, Flo, Berta, Quentin, Adrien and Manon. Exiting the dock, they
Left: Being pulled by a sailing boat in the Caribbean Sea
Bottom left: ‘Hitchhiking you are super free.’ Says Berta ‘At any time you can say “Today I’ll look for a boat to head somewhere else”’
Below: From backpackers they become the owners of their own boat, and take their friends aboard for the debut
For Manon and Adrien, more than an old dream, this way of traveling was an obvious choice: they had no money for board- ing a cargo boat, and they have refused to take planes for a long time. “When you know there is a real trouble with CO2 emis- sions and you keep flying just for your own pleasure, that is something so selfish, so scornful of all of those who can’t do it and who suffer the consequences of climate change. The air- plane is one of the latest markers of the planet-wide social injustice: we are lucky to catch super-cheap flights, which is a
privilege of the super-wealthy. Planes fly from rich places (Paris, London and see themselves reflected on Bill Gates’ superyacht, also stopping by the marina. Frankfurt) to the poor ones, not the opposite.” Later on, under the stars, they share stories and songs on the cockpit. The boat “By plane you are way more framed; for months you know you are going to arrive moves in the Caribbean Sea, once filled with pirates, dissidents of the European on that day, at that time, at that place,” Quentin adds. “This way everything is unpre- empires, today filled with these backpacked nomads, dissidents of the consump- dictable.” “When you see an island on the horizon, land in sight, it’s just crazy,” Alexis tion-work society, who rifle supermarket dumpsters, conquer the time, seek an explains. “You count the days and the hours.” “When you refuse to take the plane and immeasurable treasure: adventure. you go by land or by sea, you’re able to discover and understand so many other “It can be seen as a luxury: to give yourself all the time we give ourselves, to look things, about the history, the geography... You see something else,” Manon says. “For for all the complications we look for, just for the sake of hitching a boat, when we me it’s impressive to be tracing a path which is so historically marked: the route of could as well just catch a flight... But it means so much more, to travel the way we colonization, of the conquests, of slavery.” do,” Manon says. “I’ve really changed my notion of time,” Alexis confesses. “The boat In the same ocean, on the same route: once taken to extend the empire, to conquer, moves on super slowly, you take loads of time to find it. For weeks we have now been taken today to escape the empire of consumption, to discover other landscapes and looking for a boat to South America. If I had waited five minutes for my metro I’d be ways of living. way more cranky.” Florian adds: “We learn not to rush, but rather to enjoy the beau- March 2013, longitude 60° west ty of the places we are in.” Le Marin, Martinique, has the biggest marina in the Eastern Caribbean. The crowded “When people ask if we are on holidays, we say no,” Alexis says. “We are traveling.” bars have their walls covered with notices: Dominica, Colombia, Pacific Ocean, Why? “Holidays are just a break in your working time”, Manon explains. “To us,” Quentin Europe... There are boats leaving in all directions — and young travelers eager for a shouts from the cabin, “working time is a break in our lives.” OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 ITCZ reachesitsnorthernmostlatitudeatorafterthe ing andcoolinglagsbehindthepositionofsun, on thepatternoflandandocean.Becauseglobalheat- degrees oflatitudenorthorsouththeequatorbased location oftheITCZcanvaryasmuch40to45 summer andsouthduringthenorthernwinter.The squalls. TheITCZmovesnorthduringthenorthern lar windbrokenbyoccasionalthunderstormsand Convergence Zone(ITCZ),aregionoflightandirregu- tradewinds? AtabouttheequatorisIntertropical able atabout15knotsanddonotcarryhumidity. are asailor’sjoybecausetheygenerallydepend- tradewinds aredryandrelativelyconstantwinds.They the northeasttowardequator.Thenortheasterly degrees thenortheasttradewindsblowmostlyfrom the equatorfromsouthornorth.Southofabout30 curve towardthewest,whethertheyaretravelingto caused bytheEarth’sspinning)makestradewinds are thetradewinds.TheCoriolisEffect(thedeflection the equator.Theseairmovementstowardequator tor, mostofthecoolingsinkingairmovesbacktoward and sink.Between30degreeslatitudetheequa- equator, thewarmairfromequatorbeginstocool Moving toabout30degreesnorthandsouthofthe is heatedandrises,leavinglowpressureareasbehind. the Caribbeancanbehelpful. tradewind basicsforanyonecontemplatingcruisingin subject canbecomplicated.Anoverviewofthe summer astheyareduringtheCaribbeanwinter.The cease buttheyarenotthesameduringCaribbean tradewinds season.Actually,thedonot and thebeginningofreinstatement for HappyTradewindsNewYear. for HappyNewYear2014.However,itisperfecttiming Why isthereadifferenceinsummerandwinter The equatorreceivestheSun’sdirectrays.Here,air Tradewind Basics November 1stistheofficialendofhurricaneseason It istoolateforHappyNewYear2013andearly TRADEWINDS and theITCZmovesclosertoequator,Caribbeanhurricaneseasonisending Tropical cyclonesareoftentheresultofdisturbanceswithinITCZ;aswenowbegintotiltawayfromsun (i.e. wherethenortheastandsoutheasttradewindsconvergeinalow-pressurezone)movesnorthward. After thenorthernhemisphereiswarmedbybeingtiltedtowardsun,IntertropicalConvergenceZone months thanduringthewintermonths.Thefirstwind Caribbean isevenmoreconstantduringthesummer that istheICTZmovingnorthward. wind beginstodevelopasoutherlycomponent.Actually November throughAprilorMay.FromJuneon,the wind developsanortherlyorsoutherlycomponent. end ofthenorthernsummer.AsITCZshifts, Contrary towhatmanybelieve,thewindin Expect thetradewindstobenortheasterlyfrom byFrankVirgintino • Allslipswithfingers • Shorepower30,50and100amps • ABYCcertifiedmachanics • 70TonTravelift(30'beam) • Slipsto120’withdepth10’ • HighQualityShelteredMoorings Zar-Par Marina Visit: marinazarpar.comemail: [email protected] M a Tel: 8095235858VHF Channel 5
r Z i THE FOCALPOINTFORCRUISINGYACHTSMENT demonstrates that percent ofthetime.Thesecondwindgraphclearly while inJulythereisnotradewindblowingonlyfive percent ofthetimethereisnotradewindblowing, graph onthenextpageindicatesthatinJanuary,58 —Continuedonnextpage Path toWindward Gentleman’s GuidetoPassagesSouth:TheThornless well explainedinBruceVanSant’sbook, and canbeusedtoheadeast.Thistechniqueisvery bring greyskies.Theyoftenoverwhelmthetradewinds “northers” willcomedownfromNorthAmericaand the tradewindseason,innorthwesternCaribbean, wind speedanddirectionintoconsideration.Earlyin northeast. Yourcruisingandroutingshouldtakethe harder. Thewindwillbefromtheeast-northeastto for theperiodofChristmasWindswhentheyblow to 15knots,duringmostofthewinterseason,except bringing drywindandblueskies—asailor’sdelight. back southandthetradewindsfromSaharaare season —so,HappyNewYear!TheITCZhasmoved arrived atthe“beginningofseason”—tradewind times therewillbenowindatall. normal seasandroughconditions.However,atother a timewithoutabatingandcanresultinhigherthan from 20to35knots.Thewindscanpersistfordaysat usually continuethroughmid-Januaryandcanrange became knownastheChristmasWinds.Thesewinds happens inDecember,thesestrongertradewinds however, thewindscanbemuchstronger.Asthis the Caribbeansummerthaninwinter. The tradewindsblowmoderately,approximately12 Cruising DuringtheWinterTradewindSeason If youarriveintheCaribbeanNovember,have As thenortheasterlytradesreinstatethemselves, &7milesEastofInternationalAirport • 12milesEastofSantoDomingo • DinghyDock • FreeWIFIandInternet • Immigrationofficeinthemarinaforclearance • Showers,Laundry,Restaurant,24hrsecurity . average windspeedsarehigherin 69.36.67W 18.25.50N The OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 Free Cruising Free Cruising As the tradewind season grows older, As the tradewind the Summer Cruising During moves back north in the As the ITCZ on the The hurricane history shown quite that simple. quite that simple. become more constant the tradewinds and routing can be and your planning the change into account. altered to take more often, you can With more wind, time sailing and less time spend more waiting for wind. the winds and summer, the constancy of both increase. the average wind speed become a However, rain and humidity of storms daily occurrence and the threat much and even hurricanes becomes year, it is best greater. At this time of the north. to be south of latitude 12 degrees that map on page 47clearly demonstrates reach of most safe cruising, beyond the of 12.” storms, should not be “north storms than Grenada is safer from named Antilles, and other islands in the Lesser to cruise Trinidad still safer. If you choose you can head during hurricane season, , www.freecruisingguides.com. Beyond the ABC islands, Colombia, Panama and the The Caribbean is not any one group of islands; it is HAPPY NEW YEAR! Frank Virgintino is the author of from Trinidad to the ABC islands with a strong wind from Trinidad to the ABC and a favorable current. from the east-southeast as storms are concerned, Venezuela is also safe insofar to its record of crime, but generally bypassed owing cruising boats. including violent crime, against San Blas Islands are also in the “safer zone” regarding storms. many islands and many countries that surround a large body of water called the Caribbean Sea. That sea, like any sea, has certain characteristics that change during various times of the year. If you are on a cruis- ing boat, and in particular a cruising boat under sail, understanding those characteristics has everything to do with the ease and enjoyment as well as the safety of your voyage. Every month has an opportunity for the cruising boat and it is rare that you will find your- self bored. So let’s celebrate November — the advent of a new tradewind season. Guides Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE The tradwind belt in a nutshell: hot air at the equator rises; at about 30 degrees it cools enough to sink and flows back toward the equator; the spinning of the earth deflects this airflow toward the west Surprisingly to many, the graph above indicates that Surprisingly to many, the graph undependable in January, the tradewinds can be quite that average wind and the graph below right shows higher in the summer speeds in the Caribbean are than in the winter The point is to use the tradewinds to your advantage tical miles, to the south-southwest. The ABCs are a tical miles, to the south-southwest. The ABCs are a delightful group of islands and well worth the visit. From the ABCs, you can cross back over to the Dominican Republic and make for Boca Chica, a dis- tance of approximately 350 miles, and use that stop to visit the historic city of Santo Domingo. if you want to sail more and motor less. Many cruisers have a notion that the tradewinds blow all the time and that you simply put your sails up and go. It is not 3 Phase 100Amp, 50 Hz • Big Blue Building VHF 68 240V 50Amp •
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BEQUIA MARINA Continued from previous page Continued from DAVID HARLOW/CAS.UMKC.EDU DAVID From Grenada or Trinidad, you can head west to the Use Reaching Strategy for sailing in the One of the best cruising strategies If you are in the Eastern Caribbean and want to the Eastern Caribbean and If you are in In the Lesser Antilles, you can use the tradewinds to Antilles, you can use the tradewinds In the Lesser Electric: 110V 30Amp ABC islands if the forecasted wind is 20 knots or bet- ter; with the current with you, your speed over the bottom will be impressive. If however, the wind fore- cast is only 12 to 15 knots from the northeast, from Grenada you can make for Ponce, Puerto Rico — a wonderful destination. As the crow flies it is just over 400 nautical miles and in “average” tradewinds should be a wonderful three-day sail. Once at Ponce, you can depart for the ABC islands, a little more than 300 nau- Caribbean is often overlooked. This strategy is zigzag- Caribbean is often overlooked. south to north across the ging north to south and destinations. Given the Caribbean Sea as you set your tradewind season, your average wind speed during on a reach — and that boat will often perform better north or south across the can be achieved by sailing running to the west or Caribbean Sea, rather than beating to the east. head west towards the ABC islands or the Greater the ABC islands or head west towards wind to will be to find enough Antilles, the challenge of the beam, speed. With the wind aft maintain your you will often find unless you short-tack downwind, average speed below five the cockpit hot and your between the true wind knots owing to the relationship and the apparent wind. head north and south along the island chain, often south along the island head north and are made kind of sailing that dreams experiencing the all the way of the hill” at Martinique of. From the “top will be a sleigh ride. to Grenada, it — OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29
MAIN PHOTO: JASON PICKERING / ALL OTHERS: POLLY PHILIPSON ’s every Desiderata sailing in the Lesser Antilles give her a wave, will start her new charter life, taking guests on board. Desiderata at the halfway point of her refit in Grenada at Clarke’s Court Bay Marina, on Grenada. Everybody is welcome Desiderata shine with new stainless steel chainplates and cranse iron. . If you see ” really stand out, Julia worked with Desmond McDonald, at Desi is a fascinating example of nautical design history, and the craftsmen history, and the craftsmen example of nautical design is a fascinating Desiderata
S/Y Desiderata Desiderata Desiderata S/Y Steffan Meyerer and his team at Driftwood Fine Yacht Woodwork performed all of Steffan Meyerer and his team at Driftwood Fine Yacht Luckily, Grenada is a friendly island where word-of-mouth recommendation and a word-of-mouth recommendation is a friendly island where Luckily, Grenada Desiderata From 1400hrs on Saturday, October 19th, Stuart and Julia will be hosting a free open In November 2013, To make “ Max Ehrmann wisely wrote “In the noisy confusion of life, keep peace with your The end of this story is actually the beginning of Stuart and Julia’s fresh embarka- trol, and any other job that needed doing. the joinery work, completed deck hardware installation, and oversaw the other wood- work projects such as the beautiful cabinetry created by Rene Froehlich. The chal- lenging job of rigging was completed by Niels Lund, while Matthew Watton provided engine, control, and steering gear maintenance. Danny Gray, at Nauti Solutions, is making thriving sailing community exist. Through social events and sailing connections, a social events and sailing community exist. Through thriving sailing assembled to attend to of skilled craftsmen were wonderful group organization and impressed by the and Julia have been exceptionally need. Stuart alongside each achieve deadlines and work between businesses to communication of workmanship a very high quality boat. They have found other on a 66-foot project. throughout the Stuart decided skill and understanding. major refit have shown great involved in the got stuck and Julia enthusiastically important role of Project Manager, to take on the such as painting masts, interior design, budget con- in with all the hands-on work and I hope you enjoy admiring her classic beauty as much as I do. A final excerpt taken from Max Ehrmann’s poem “Desiderata”, which I think suits the end of this tale — “Enjoy your achievements, as well as your plans... Strive to be happy.” day on to come and have a look at her, and marvel at all the work that has been completed. Marine electronics were expertly installed by Simon Clay at Navicomm Marine, and Stuart Proudfoot efficiently completed the plumbing and electrics on board. Creative Furniture & Upholstery, to embellish the yacht with a stunning new colour scheme and sumptuous upholstery fabrics. A captain’s La-Z-Boy saloon recliner was added — definitely a unique first for a classic ketch! Of course, none of this work would have been so successfully completed without such a friendly and accommo- dating place to work — sincere thanks to all at Clarke’s Court Bay Marina, on Grenada. Sherri Roopchand, at Wholesale Yacht Parts, played an important role too — importing all of the required parts in an efficient, stress-free manner. soul.” Stuart and Julia have found Grenada to be the perfect island to complete a very hectic schedule of work, without missing out on a traditional Caribbean life- style. It has been easy for them to integrate and explore the culture of the island, thanks to the welcoming attitude of many Grenadians and the sailing community — they extend their thanks to many new friends. tion on Stuart and Julia’s aim is to share the delights of sailing this classic yacht with guests, and also offer the opportunity to race in classic regattas. For more information visit sydesiderata.com. is was an to her full Desiderata to appreciate sailed around Desiderata Desiderata captivated onlookers during the 2011 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta Inset: ‘Passion?’ ‘Yes please!’ captivated onlookers during the 2011 Antigua Classic Desiderata . Stuart and Julia got to Desiderata Desiderata Desiderata classic design still excels under sail. This is Left: Julia sanded and repainted the spars Below: Main photo:
. required a major refit and revamp to optimize their Instantly, you understand that she is their pride and was built in 1945 when construction materials were 1945 when construction was built in
Desiderata’s
” and Stuart and Julia adored showing guests around her Desiderata Malabar XIII , was receiving constant dockside attention. Following the busy
Desi Desiderata. one of only five yachts built to John Alden’s design number 0756, — a classic ketch, and sistership to none other than naval archi- and sistership to none — a classic ketch,
is
Malabar XIII THINGS was nostalgically called “The Last of the Malabars” and was soon to work her magic again. Upon first glimpsing her, Julia was
Desiderata DESIRED DESIRED Desiderata S/Y Desiderata S/Y Desiderata Stuart realized that A great team, Captain Stuart and First Mate Julia positively shine as they show With this notion in mind, they cast off via Gibraltar and the Canaries. Accomplishing Desiderata As “Go placidly amid the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in “Go placidly amid the noise and haste, and remember The response from spectators and friends was overwhelming. Built in the US in 1975, A war baby, “Passion?” asks Julia as she raises her drink. “Passion?” asks glass against hers. replies Stuart, clinking his “Yes please,” enquires with a grin. “Trouble?” Stuart Julia. “Always!” responds who have than these, by two people fun-loving words spoken Never were more by Polly Philipson by Polly Philipson new guests around joy, and they have the welcoming ability to make everyone feel part of the boat’s exclusive crew. another transatlantic crossing, they reached Barbados in time for the 2012/13 Caribbean season. Stuart and Julia spent the winter months formulating their plans, and trying out their ideas on friends and family who happily sailed throughout the Lesser Antilles with them. — why not charter professionally? exciting project. Having enjoyed the time they spent in Grenada, and it being hur- ricane season, this was the island they chose to rejuvenate captivated with the idea of a life at sea, on board a classic yacht. I dare say that Stuart may have played a part in this too, as passion is infectious when heartfelt. Together, they spent the summer fervidly sailing the Ionian Sea, and discovered their equal enthusiasm for creating fine cuisine and entertaining. Then an idea formed — everyone loved “ instant hit with her graceful classic style and romantic historical presence. Stuart, or rather regatta season, Stuart wished for the peace of the open ocean again; he set off for Majorca completing another joyful transatlantic crossing on his one true love. glory. A former owner had refitted the interior in 1997, but the ketch needed to be altered for additional privacy and comfort for charter guests. silence” — Stuart has now enjoyed many miles of sailing silence” — Stuart has now enjoyed many miles of sailing why Stuart fell in love with her at first sight, when she was working as a support why Stuart fell in love with her at first sight, when she Aptly, “desiderata” means vessel for the Australia-Mauritius ocean rowing race. only classic ketch for him, “desired things” and Stuart, knowing that this was the took over as skipper and never looked back. of Good Hope to Brazil via St. Madagascar to South Africa and crossed from the Cape the Caribbean season — where Helena and Ascension Island. They arrived in time for better to spread their wings than during the 2011 Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta? these perceptive words written by Max Ehrmann in his 1927 prose poem “Desiderata”, these perceptive words written by Max Ehrmann in his for which his yacht is named. In 2011, Stuart and the last one of this unique design remaining afloat — a good reason to stay true to form. One of the ideas behind the refit was to employ local businesses or individuals who admired and understood the ethos behind work researching and meeting prospective service providers on Grenada. Stuart wanted to preserve the style of her classic woodwork and general layout. Malabar XIII Bermuda Race and 1951 Transatlantic Race. Design 0756 is one of only two ketch Bermuda Race and 1951 Transatlantic Race. Design she has a mizzen designs that Alden personally owned and raced; cutter-rigged, other designs. The addition of staysail and spinnaker, which sets her apart from his a doghouse allowed for an extra berth to be added. scarce. Nevertheless, her efficiency and easy handling made her a keen contender easy handling made her a her efficiency and scarce. Nevertheless, Most notably, Alden had success in the 1948 during ocean races and regattas. tect John G. Alden’s tect John G. Alden’s embraced the chance to follow their hearts. Stuart and Julia are the proud owners Stuart and Julia are the chance to follow their hearts. embraced the of OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 to turnyouintothegrimreaperbyHalloween. spirits. Don’tallowhobgoblinsincommunications your financialcoursewillhavethehelp ofgood your creativetalentstofindnewwaysexpel them. if youdon’tfindacharmtohelpclearthem out.Use month andtheycouldputacurseonboat business creepy onboard. deep sixedbyHalloweenorthingswillgetreally lems withshipmates;theseproblemsneedtobe 15th. Youwillneedthesetalentsforsolvingprob- goblins inyourorganizationalcoursebeforethe to celebrateHalloweenwith. a goodromanticspelltoassistyouwithnewlove could drivethemaway.Consultthewiseoldowlfor spirits oflovetoyoubuttheblackcatonrail Let bygonesbe“byebones”. mummies ofthesepastlovestoDavyJones’locker. cause creepyfeelingsinthemaincabin.Send attitude willbetoostrongforthem. try tolureyouintospookyseasbutyourpositive in inventiveprojects.Vampiresandwerewolveswill spells tobesureofclearsailingandfollowingseas exorcized untilnextmonth. aspect willlastthroughHalloweenandnotbe and causeproblemsinyourcurrentromance.This you cancontrolyouractions. could haveanegativeeffectonbusinessunless tems willhavegreatfunmakingyourlifehelland heading formirages.Goblinsintheelectronicsys- your romanticcourseandcauseyoutowastetime trate yourcharmsonthat. and thenhunkerdownlikeagargoyleconcen- and setacoursethatwillbestaffectyourfinances, drums inyourcreativity?Hoponbroomstick bies shouldbeexorcisedbyHalloween. month. Thingsmaybelookinggrimnowbutzom- choppy seasinyourlovelifeafterthemiddleof for LovePotionNumberNinetodispelthecurseof you inironswillmagicallyclearupafterthe15th. energy arewithyouanddetailsthatputting boat businesswillbebedeviled.Thespiritsof leads straighttoyou! romantic horizon—andit’sonaheadingthat After the8ththerewillbeaneerieglowon and haveamacabreeffectonyoursenseofhumor. make constantcoursechangesincreativepursuits HORRORSCOPE OCTOBER2013 There willbebatsinthebelfryofromance, but There willbegremlinsintheelectronicsforyouthis Use yourOuijaBoardtoplotcoursethrough The Jack-O-Lanternonthebowwillattract The rattleofskeletonsinyourhanginglockerwill Get outyourcauldronandstartworkingon The wraithofapastlovemayhauntyourboat Phantoms onthehorizonwillmisleadyou Want togetoutfromunderthecurseofdol- You mayneedapotionfromthewitchdoctor.Ask As thetrickyseasinyourlovelifebecometreats, Winds howlinglikebansheescouldcauseyouto SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)
— W. Scott MacKinnon Caribees Steer forournextport:agloriousride. Parting thewaves,gentlysweepthemaside, The jubilantfreedommakesourheartssing. Down Drake’sChannelweglide,sailswingandwing. Why don’twegodoit,justyouandme? What mustithavebeenlike,tofindanewsea? Off totheporthisFatVirgin’sunveiled. Into thechannelColumbusoncesailed, To pushusonforwardwithfullsailsoncemore. Ah! Here’sthesweetzephyrwe’vebeenwaitingfor The windwillreturn—justamatterofwhen. Shake outthereefs,raisemains’lagain Our sailsawaitcalmly:they’llletnowindpass. And nowwe’rebecalmed,wildseaturnedtoglass. The island’ssteepsideslikeagreeneveninggown. In theleeofanislandwindsettlesdown, We areonewiththeocean,nothingtofear. The sailsarereefedtwice,thebowisourspear: Balance eachotherandlaughatmeregales. The currentandkeel,thewindsails, It seemsforamomentwe’llactuallyfly. Great swellsliftusuplikeGod’shandfromthesky. Keep asfarwecanfromthatcruelshorealee. Engulfed byastorm,westandouttosea, Children ofNeptunealongfortheride. Frolicking dolphinsplungethroughwavesbyourside, Billowing forward;we’venothoughttolookback. The snapofthejibasitfillsfromtack We’re onewiththeelements,alwaysinmotion. The powerfulwind,theproteanocean: There’s nootherplacethatwe’dratherbe. Tomorrow wesailtheCaribbeanSea. Enhanced bythisgoddess,womanofmine. A warmbeachatsunset,goodbookandfinewine Kiss ofseaandthesun,whereeverythingsmiles. I cravetheembraceoftropicalisles;
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OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 at at “Don’t be scared, little one. Your good mother sent me to find you, so follow me “Oh thank you, thank you, dear Mr. Mongoose, sir!” Mr. Mongoose smiled at the happy pair and said, “Next time I’ll eat you both!” Lizzy and her chick didn’t know whether Mr. Mongoose was joking or not and THE END Mongooses have a highly developed sense of smell and so, asking Lizzy where Mongooses have a highly developed sense of smell and looking into the fuzzy face of a mongoose! and you’ll soon be home.” But Maizzy was not going to trust any mongoose, so Mr. Mongoose grabbed her by the back of her head and very gently carried her off to his home at the bottom of the tree and dropped her at the feet of her wait- ing mother. When Mistress Lizzy saw her daughter and Maizzy saw her mother they cried and laughed with joy. they didn’t stay around to find out but hurried off home. There certainly would not be a next time! she had last seen Maizzy, he hurried off to track her. Mr. Mongoose picked up she had last seen Maizzy, he hurried off to track her. about and backtracking the trail of the missing chicken and after much running and mongooses alike, Mr. into dense hedges that should have kept out chickens Mongoose at last found Maizzy. She was tired and frightened — and now terrified What clues attract clients? What clues attract clients? of lateral stripes provide initial infor- Small body size and the presence may also convey further close-range infor- Color, rather than pattern, usually follows Finally, physical contact between cleaner and client to make them conspicuous and easy to distinguish on a coral reef, and to make them conspicuous fish avoid being eaten by their clients. a tactic that also helps the that attracts clients. Subsequent levels mation about cleaning services appear to be based on other cues, which may of client interest, however, signals. For example, cleaner wrasses include other visual or tactile which seems to attract clients. It is not often perform a zigzag dance, rate of dancing is constant or whether clean- known whether the natural as clients approach. ers modify their dancing rates of the color pattern of many coral reef mation. The reflectance spectra wavelengths, and many reef fish species fish include ultraviolet (UV) (i.e. ocular media) that permit the percep- have structures in their eye known whether cleaner fish have UV pat- tion of UV light. It is not yet have discovered the existence of an unusu- terns, but some scientists in the blue coloration of cleaner-fish ally long wavelength component client, such “cleaner blue” color may con- and cleaner-shrimp. For the firm cleaning activity at close range. of the the initial approach by client and is an important determinant length of client visits at natural cleaning stations. by Lee Kessell SALTY’S BEAT BY NATHALIE WARD BEAT BY NATHALIE SALTY’S
CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER Mr. Mongoose Answers the Call Mr.
Ever wondered how fish get clean or brush their teeth? When fish get Ever wondered how fish get What’s the buzz? first described by the Greek historian Cleaning behaviour was Who are the cleaners? cleaner shrimp Cleaning is performed by various creatures, including Why aren’t cleaners gobbled up? clients find Scientists have long wondered how bigger, fish-eating dirty they line up at their local underwater fish wash. It’s like an under- dirty they line up at their local is called a fish cleaning station. Cleaning water car wash for fish! This reefs may be located either on top of a stations associated with coral two outcroppings. Several species of coral head or in a slot between to invite larger fish to stop by cleaning sta- small reef fish are known their customers and pick them free of tions, where the cleaners groom away spic-and-span, and the cleaners get an parasites. The clients swim of a mutually beneficial relationship. easy meal: a classic example though his example (birds serving croco- Herodotus in about 420 BC, rarely. Biologists have debated the role ofdiles) appears to occur only 30 years. Cleaning symbiosis is a mutuallycleaning symbioses for over two species, where one (the cleaner)beneficial association between and other materials from the surface of theremoves and eats parasites believe that cleaning represents selflessother (the client). Some scientists mutualism. Others hold that it illustratesco-operation, essentially pure believe that clean- mutual selfishness, reciprocal altruism. Others again of parasitism. ing behaviour is simply one-sided exploitation, a form and gobies. and numerous species of cleaner fish, especially wrasses wrasse, is a very The cleaner wrasse, sometimes called the blue streak any other fish active fish that displays cleaning symbiosis with nearly can often observe species, even some as small as itself. When diving, one or moray eels’ the cleaner wrasse darting in and out of large groupers’ the smaller mouths, working to eat parasites off. The trade-off is simple: parasites. wrasse gets a meal and the larger fish is cleaned of annoying to provide a large The cleaner wrasse relies on microscopic parasites a whole lot of tiny portion of its nutrition. As you can imagine, it takes wrasse. On parasites to meet the nutritional requirements of a cleaner serve hundreds of the coral reef, it’s realistic for the cleaner wrasse to and parasites, fish a day. Each of these fish is covered with dead skin which offers the wrasse plenty to eat. are off the menu. cleaners and apparently recognize that the smaller fish and wrasses, are Studies have found that cleaner fish, such as gobies profession — a more likely to sport a “cleaner uniform” that signals their yellow — in order dark side stripe accentuated by patches of blue and Clients and Cleaners and Clients Mr. Mongoose was touched by the bravery of Mistress Lizzy and so he looked “What have we here? Chickens make a good meal and here you are.” Lizzy dropped the worm before Mr. Mongoose and with a trembling voice spoke Lizzy plucked up her courage and carrying the biggest, juiciest worm she could Mistress Lizzy was a fine-looking wild chicken and she had But to get to our story. In St. Lucia, that pretty island of moun- Mongooses were introduced into the sugar-growing islands of the West Indies Mongooses were introduced into the sugar-growing islands at her with his bright black eyes and told her that he would help. in a half whisper: “Oh Mr. Mongoose, sir. None of my pretty chicks have ever survived until one, Maizzy, and she wandered off and I cannot find her. My heart breaks and I beg you to help me find her.” find in her beak she hurried off to the home of Mr. Mongoose where he lived in the hollow at the foot of a tall tree. Lizzy found Mr. Mongoose sunning himself in front of the hollow and waited for him to speak. brought up batch after batch of speckled chicks that sooner or later got eaten by whatever bird or animal was about to grab them. But Lizzy had enough of all that. She guarded her chicks and tried to keep them safe but in the end she had only one half- grown chicken left. Maizzy had wandered off by herself while her mother was pecking at whatever food she could find. Lizzie searched and searched for her and made clucking sounds that should make Maizzy come running back to her, but nothing. What could she do? There was only one answer to that. If Maizzy were still alive, Mr. Mongoose — if he hadn’t eaten her already — would be the one to find her. tains and beaches, the mongoose has found its way into many a suburban property, especially if there is lots of bush about. These furry little animals with their lovely bushy tails will eat just about anything — bird’s eggs, mangoes dropped from the trees, lizards, worms, baby chicks and, in fact, any chicken that it can get its teeth into. to kill the snakes and rats living in the cane fields. In Asia the mongoose was to kill the snakes and rats living in the cane fields. vicious viper, but if it valued because it is not only quick and can kill the most it immune to snake bite. is struck, its blood has a special property that makes Barbados has no snakes but there are rats aplenty and, just to let you know now horrible some people can be, it was quite common to set fire to a poor mongoose and set it to run through the neighbour’s fields before the cane was ready to be cut so that their harvest would be poor. PROUDLY SPONSORED BY CONSERVATION: CONSERVATION: BY PROUDLY SPONSORED OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 thanks toacompletelackoftourists,weweretemptedtackleit. and onlyre-discoveredin1975.SaidtobemoreauthenticthanMachuPicchu into CiudadPerdida,the“lostcity”builtbyTayronapeoplein11thcentury the day. possible totakealocalboatnearbybeach,whichwaspleasantwayspend Santa Martaandworthadaytripforthescenicbusridealone.FromTagangait’s extra taxiridecostlessthanUS$2. away fromthemarina.Itwaspointlessarguing—hewasn’tgoinganywhere.But the wayreturndrivermissed“doortodoor”bitanddroppedusafewmiles extra wegota“doortodoor”service.Blameitontranslationbutsomewherealong haven’t beenairbrushedyet. tion worktobecarriedoutbutitdoesn’ttakelongfindgrittysidestreetsthat and soakinguptheamazingsights.UNESCOmoneyhasenabledplentyofrestora- — Further researchrevealedthatthewalktookhikersthroughthickbug-riddenjun- Fellow cruiserswemetinthemarinahadjustcompletedgruellingfive-daytrek Taganga isanoldhippyhaunt,nowhipbackpackerhangout,overthehillfrom Getting therewassimple:themarinaorganizeditallforusandafewdollars Cartagena wasfascinatingandwespentseveraldaysjustwanderingthestreets Continued frompage19 through theformalities,it’sdefinitelyworthvisitingforlongerthanourtendays. whole chickenswhilethefridgewasoverloadedwithwonderfulfreshproduce. Santa Martawouldbeadvisedtocheckthishikeout,asitreceivesglowingreports. ing andslidingthroughmudininadequatefootwearputusoff.Anycruisersgoingto us unadventurous,butwe’dalreadymissedthedryseasonandthoughtofslush- gle, throughmultiplerivercrossings—somedeepanduphundredsofsteps.Call Countries/Colombia/cartagena-club-nautico-an-update-on-renovations. bandit.blogspot.com. 2006 andareslowlyenroutetoNewZealand.Sharetheiradventuresatwww.yacht- time outtogocruising.TheyboughttheirMoody46, experience butbepreparedforthecrowds Left: Cartagena’sbeautifullyairbrushedstreetsmakesightseeingafantastic put paidtothat,pointingoutthelong-windedformalitiesnecessaryforanchoring Above: Plansweretoheadoutananchorageforafewdays,butourhelpfulagent charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon Colombia wasaworthwhilestopoverand,ifcruiserscannegotiatetheirway Before wereluctantlyleft,filledourfreezerwithcheapeyefilletsofbeefand For anupdateonrenovationsatClubNáuticoCartagenavisitwww.noonsite.com/ Brenda WebbisaNewZealandjournalistwho,withhusbandDavidMorgan,took 0 0033 0000 2344 20 2255 19 2206 18 2116 17 2026 16 1934 15 1840 14 1744 13 1646 1547 12 1450 11 1353 10 1259 9 1208 8 1119 7 1032 6 0946 5 0901 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME October 2013 For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill MERIDIAN PASSAGE OCTOBER- NOVEMBER2013 (full moon) (new moon) OF THEMOON 0 1823 1730 1635 1538 10 1438 9 1338 8 1238 7 1141 6 1048 5 0957 4 3 2 1 0823 November 2013 0738 31 0909 0651 30 0609 29 0523 28 0437 27 0350 26 0301 25 0212 24 0122 23 22 21 (new moon) Bandit 0 0925 0834 0745 30 0659 29 0615 28 0531 27 0446 26 0403 25 0318 24 0213 23 0143 22 0054 21 0004 20 0000 19 2315 18 2226 17 2138 16 2050 15 2002 14 1913 13 12 11 , intheMediterranean (full moon) OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 , Burford Books, ©2007. galaxy to us! nearest The Why Book of Sailing To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck To Contemplate While Having ago… Here on Earth that’s the first emergence of the Two and half million years Scott Welty is the author of genus, ‘Homo’ which evolved into the present day Home Sapiens... not to be confused into the present day Home Sapiens... not to be confused genus, ‘Homo’ which evolved with Republicans. million years ago. Remember, this is the million years ago. Remember, Above: The western sky after sunset on October 6th (‘zenith’ indicates looking Below: The giant constellations of Pegasus and Andromeda straight up)
FIGURE 3 THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN
As you can see, the star Alpheratz serves as a star for both Pegasus and As you can see, the star Alpheratz serves as a Constellation of the Month: Pegasus/Andromeda (see Figure 2) as they are October is a fine time for these two giant constellations The Orionids Meteor Shower the nearly full moon is going Yes, it peaks on the 21st in the early morning sky but EARTH - Thinks the Sun rises and sets with her. EARTH - Thinks the Sun rises hours in Leo. MARS - Rising around 0330 and setting in the daytime. Riding in Gemini. JUPITER - Rising after midnight in the month but moving toward the Sun later on. SATURN - Evening star early Sky Events This Month 4th - New Moon moon, Mercury, Venus, and Saturn (Figure 1) 6th - Nice grouping! Crescent 18th - Full Moon (see below) 21st - Orionids meteor shower VENUS - Setting well after the Sun (about 2100 hours). Moving toward maximum the Sun (about 2100 hours). Moving toward maximum VENUS - Setting well after The Planets in October 2013 of the month. Maximum elongation (angle from the MERCURY - Evening star most Andromeda. In the legend, Andromeda, the daughter of Cassiopeia, was chained to Andromeda. In the legend, Andromeda, the daughter sledding that! In any case a rock to be eaten by Cetus the sea monster. Wow, tough and then just a bit up if you can follow down the strands of the legs of Andromeda you’ll notice a “smudge” in the sky. Put your Steiners on that! That’s the Andromeda galaxy (Figure 3), the nearest galaxy to our own Milky Way. Historically, it wasn’t clear if these smudges were local or far away. When Hubble figured out that galaxies weren’t just far away but STUPID far away, as in millions of light years, the universe got a LOT bigger. The Andromeda galaxy itself is 2.5 million light years away. That means that the light from there that is entering your Steiners left Andromeda 2.5 now rising out of the east and climbing ever higher in the nighttime sky. As usual it now rising out of the east and climbing ever higher in to see a winged horse takes quite an imagination (what were those Greeks drinking?) supposed to be the body while there. The four stars that form an obvious square are neck. The other two strands the stars leading out to the star Enif are the head and the wings depending on whose of linked stars are to be the front legs/hoofs or maybe drawings you find. to ruin the meteor show this year. Only the very brightest meteors will show up in to ruin the meteor show this year. Only the very brightest famous of comets, too — the sky. This is the shower that is caused by the most comet is in the path of the Halley’s Comet. Dust and debris left behind from that the meteors seem to be ema- Earth in October. The name comes from the fact that nating from a point within the Orion constellation. The ‘nearby’ Andromeda Galaxy elongation late in the month. Sun) on the 9th. by Scott Welty The Sky in October 2013 October in Sky The OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34
Lesser Antillesin Puerto Rico ABC Islands Trinidad Jamaica Cuba Haiti Cayman Islands Dominican Republic www.freecruisingguide.com The BestStoriesfrom CaribbeanCompass The Spice Necklace, says, “Given a new life beyond the magazine, The SpiceNecklace,says,“Givenanewlifebeyondthemagazine, CRUISING GUIDES is a collection of 49 outstanding stories selected from more than is acollectionof49outstandingstoriesselectedfrommorethan Ann Vanderhoof, author of An Embarrassment of Mangoes and Ann Vanderhoof,authorofAnEmbarrassmentMangoesand
Cruising Life: The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass Cruising Life:TheBestStoriesfromCaribbeanCompass Beyond its entertainment — the first piece had me hooked — Beyond itsentertainment—thefirstpiecehadmehooked Compliments of: JUST LAUNCHED! the pieces in this collection resonate and sparkle the piecesinthiscollectionresonateandsparkle Read apreviewandorder in a very different way, offering new pleasures. in averydifferentway,offeringnewpleasures. Boca Chica, DominicanRepublic Now available as an eBook at Amazon.com, Now availableasaneBookatAmazon.com, the collection is sure to spark ideas in both the collectionissuretosparkideasinboth cruising sailorsandarmchairdreamers.” 200 issuesof www.marinazarpar.com atwww.amazon.com! FREE US$8.95/$10.95 Caribbean Compass Marina Cruising Life 3 volumes Zar-Par . now a PanamaCanaltransitrequiresgoodengine. times onwhetherwecouldhandleanemergencysituation.Lessonlearned: dream —butherewewereatlast. For alongwhilePhilandIthoughtthatreturningtothePacificwasonlypipe — Tied uptothetuginPedroMiguelLocks—beforedrama anchor withtheremainingbitofrope. chain tostoptheanchorbeingpulledoverbowroller,andthenquicklyretied down, whichsnappedonimpact.InstinctivelyTomásjammedhisfootdownthe before ourbowhitthewallandonlydamagewastolinetyinganchor this timeheadingfulltilttotheleftsideofwall.Wethrewhardinreversejust the finallock,creatingatsunami-likewakethatthrewusaround90degreesagain, locks). Thetugboatcaptainsuddenlyrevveduphisenginesandscreamedpastusto tug inthesecondlock(wehadswitchedfromporttostarboardtieupforlasttwo and askedthetugboatcaptaintomakesurehewentslowlyinlocksforus. power engine(wekeptdiscussingthisthewholewayalongbuthefinallyGOTIT) scheduled tomeetupwithouragentdropoffthetires,ropesandlinehandlers. experienced TomástookovertosteerustheBalboaYachtClubwherewewere channel markers,andwithshipstugsallmovingindifferentdirectionsthe left thelocksnighthadfallen. that canariseinthelocks.Ouradrenalinwaspumpingovertimeandbytimewe we werebeingtestedtoseeifourenginecouldhandletheextremecircumstances forward justintimetobereadytieupthetugfornextlock.Againitseemed wall whilealsogainingcontrolofthedirectionboatsothatwewerefacing quickly enoughtostopourwindvaneatthesternfrombeingcrushedagainst we weregoingstraightfortherightwalloflock!Wemanagedtohitforwardgear with theboatbeingpushedforwardatsametimebywindandcurrent.Now effect ofbeingkickedhardintoreverseandfromthereboundingwaketug, Our engineperformedbeautifullyforthetransitbutwewerecertainlytestedafew All wentwelluntilweweremotoringawayfromthestarboardtie-upagainst The advisorsuddenlyunderstoodourlimitedmaneuverabilitywithaneight-horse- We arrivedatLaPlayitaanchorage9:00 Phil andIfoundthatourvisionwasblurredbyallthelightsofcity Through atLast At thesametime,webouncedbackwardsfromimpactofhittingwall, Continued frompage21 www.caribbeancompass.com We’re the Web! on Caribbean Compass FREE On-line …Panama CanalTransit PM , tiredandstressed,butsorelieved. OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 described in the other popular guides. PHOTO TIP! PHOTO NOT Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information the anchorages the guide he used was Norie and Wilson’s ALL Excerpt from "How to Take Stunning to Take Excerpt from "How Until Don Street wrote his first guide in 1964, Until Don Street wrote his first guide in 1964, available on Kindle, Apple, and ebook. available on Kindle, and Shoot Cameras" by Scott Fratcher, and Shoot Cameras" by Scott Fratcher, Hard, reflective light such as on the seabed light such as Hard, reflective Underwater Photos Using Inexpensive Point Underwater Photos GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS in Fort Lauderdale, or contact [email protected] STUNNING UNDERWATER UNDERWATER STUNNING comes from sunny days with wind over the sunny days with comes from days with dispersed light are Overcast water. photos. If surface light much better for taking “fill flash” to soften the is reflected, use a shadow effect. in St. Lucia, Sully Magras in St. Barts, and Blue Water Books & Charts in St. Lucia, Sully Magras in St. Barts, and Blue Water Books “Sailing Directions to the West Indies”, published in 1867. “Sailing Directions to the West Indies”, published Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anec- dotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe in the Eastern Caribbean. In 1980 Street said in print that if anyone could come up with an anchorage safe for a boat that draws seven feet that he has not covered in the guide he would buy the drinks. drinks. Thirty-two years have gone by and he has never had to buy circle in Street’s Guide Real sailors in the Windwards, Leewards and Virgin Islands the anchorages that are Do the same and you will have quiet anchorages. HURRICANE TIPS! on tracking & securing for a storm Street’s Guides are available at Island Water World and Johnson Marine Hardware Street’s Guides are available at Island Water World and Snapshots edited by Michael D. Phillips, is edited by Michael D. Phillips, The collection of short fiction The collection second Sir Colville Young, Belize’s Gold”, is a The opening story, “Elastic of Belize, book says it exactly what the title of the compris- is — snapshots. The slim book seven diverse ing nine concise stories by a time to authors takes about as long album. read as looking through a photo Bradley Sr., Governor-General, and Leo first identifi- called “without doubt the have two able writer of short fiction”, are Zoila stories each. The other writers X. Hyde, Ellis, Evadne Garcia, Evan A. Watler. Lawrence Vernon and John tale about wonderfully written outdoor and his son Max Flowers, a fisherman, in their Sonny, searching the mangroves Leo Bradley’s dory for rubber. In this, of time and first tale, he creates a sense “German place. The time was 1944 when submarines were playing havoc… with American shipping… How often had wrecked life-boats and floating bodies, and broken bits of spars and masts that found their way on the Belizean coast, told the tale of midnight sinkings in the orgy of vicious warfare! And now the ships that bore the bulk of rubber… vomited them unwillingly into the sea as edited by Michael D. Phillips, Cubola Productions, 2001 D. Phillips, Cubola Productions, edited by Michael
, — a snapshot of politicians I’m sure most of us have in our photo — a snapshot of politicians I’m sure most of us have After some tit-for-tat and anxiety, the book ends on a happy note with Rip After some tit-for-tat and anxiety, the book ends on a happy note with Rip In one of the longer pieces, and the last tale in the book, the light-hearted “Bitter- As the saying goes, “Be careful what you wish for — you might get it!” Jim Hilton, At two and a half pages long, “Crab Seasin” is Evadne Garcia’s blurry snapshot. “I used to be a priest you know.” “True Teecha? What happen? Yu stop?” “Yes, I stopped.” “Oh well, betta yu stop something than yu eena it with only half yu hart…” Later, “as he paddled home, he felt like laughing and crying at the same time. How After the burial he visited Miss Bella and her family… He and Miss Bella were sit- Zoila Ellis’s “The Teacher” has every reason never to forget the day old Ramsey Snapshots of Belize Snapshots of When he finally leaves and goes to the party, who should he meet there but Tricia, In “A Conscience for Christmas”, Evan X. Hyde’s offering, cool-as-cucumber In “A Conscience for Christmas”, Evan X. Hyde’s “The Honourable Jonas Harold Parker (‘the silver tongued talker’) was, unusually, “The Honourable Jonas Harold Parker (‘the silver tongued “The Representative”, which follows, is the first of Sir Colville Young’s two snap- “The Representative”, which follows, is the first of Sir Harper saying to young Slim, “There is nothing to be sorry about, son. I did you a Harper saying to young Slim, “There is nothing to be sorry about, son. I did you a mean trick and you did one back to me, so we are even, ha.” And that is the gist of the story. Sweet Revenge” is the presentation of John A. Watler (a typo at the beginning of the story has his name as Walter). “the government’s expert on excavating old Mayan sites”, brings home a magic stone in Lawrence Vernon’s tale, “The Third Wish”. Although Jim warns his father about its evil potential, the elder Hilton still invokes the power of the stone, and things go awry to the detriment of the family. Non-Belizeans may not be able to read this tale, which is written entirely in Creole. Reading it was for me (a Trinidadian) an exercise in frustration. All I was able to glean from the story is that it was about catching crabs. could she know what she had done for him? Her simplicity and truth were as natu- ral as the river and together they had set him free.” ting in the parlour facing a huge vase of red plastic roses. Unbidden his voice broke the quiet. died. It was on that day that the former Catholic priest — who had had a breakdown, did not speak for three months and came to Cucumber Bank to teach — was com- forted and found solace in Miss Bella’s counseling. Miss Gertrude’s granddaughter. That’s when Caldo discovers his conscience. Caldo’s main thought on Christmas Eve was that when he attended his office party, Caldo’s main thought on Christmas Eve was that when take her somewhere where “if he saw anybody suitable, he would move her off and to the party he witnesses a they could be together”. But fate intervenes. On his way victim, Miss Gertrude, who mugging of an old lady and comes to the rescue of the He goes not too willingly — invites him to her home to have a drink with her. old women” — and is imme- “Christmas Eve was one night you did not spend with in here. Black cake diately filled with nostalgia. “He could see and feel Christmas and curtains and varnish and ham, turkey, the crisp store smell of new linoleum hair blinking with colour- and paint. A brightly decorated Christmas tree with angel at Christmas when he was a ful lights and presents underneath. This was a home boy.” Miss Gertrude is full of chat and tells him, “My granddaughter has gone to a party. She is too young, but it is with a friend, so I sent her.” BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER BOOK REVIEW Belize! Cheese, Say Edition, ISBN-976-8142-07-3. was not due till the end of the visiting his constituency. It is true that the next election He had neglected his area for year, but the party leader had given him an ultimatum. dry season to pass idly by. So four years. Then in this fifth year he had allowed the his air-conditioned Buick on today, in spite of the water-filled potholes, he had parked house. He wore his friendliest the edge of his division and was canvassing house to confidence-inspiring hand- smile, had his warmest hugs for the ladies, and his most take a few of the children into shakes available for the men. He had also decided to his arms” albums. shots in this album. It deals with politics and shows people’s skepticism with politics shots in this album. It deals with politics and shows people’s and politicians. torpedoes found their mark… these masses of rubber flotsam and jetsam to lie torpedoes found their mark… these masses of rubber other islands. An agent finally among the mangroves of Turneffe Caye and several any bulk found and delivered” in Belize City was paying twenty cents per pound for coast to fish for elastic gold — a price that caused many a fisherman on the Belizean head out to sea towards Belize instead. Max and Sonny, on finding their elastic gold, of their dory lying in wait to City, only to encounter a black boat twice the length his story with a sea relive them of their precious find. And so Bradley concludes chase of riveting seamanship. OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 [email protected] www.marigotbeachclub.com ENJOY DOOLITTLE’S Dive ResortinMarigotBay,St.Lucia Bonus Poker,Jackorbetterpoker, Doolittle’s atMarigotBeachClub& OPEN EVERYDAYFROM2PM GAMING CENTRE Are youreadytogoALLIN Games includenameslike: Crown Gems,LionsLuck, For BeginnersandPros! Over 16playingstations for aneveningoffun?? and somuchmore! Madam Fortune
Drinks 2forthepriceofone 5pm-7pm Daily ments aremet. a never-endingsupplyofhealthysnacksonboardandtoensureproteinrequire- careful nottogetthemwetinstorageortheymaybeginsprout(orworse,rot). “come alive”(begintheirsproutingprocess)untiltheyaresoakedinwater.Justbe nutritious foodsistheywillkeepunrefrigeratedformonthsonendandwon’t legumes inairtightcontainers(preferablyTupperware).Awonderfultraitofthese rolled oats,quinoa,amaranth,kidneyandbutterbeans,chickpeasother ways toensurethereisanever-endingsupplyofenergyenhancingfoods.Store minimal foodsupply. required —oncewestayedoutonLighthouseReefforanextrafivedaysa energy foods.Thiswillallowmoreroomforsimplebutnutritiousmealsif or passagemaking,itisimportanttokeeptheboatwellstockedwithlong-life ensuring foodsarenutritious,satisfyingandenergyenhancing. tasks. Butplanningaheadreallypaysoff. food maybequicklydepleted,leavingthecrewwithlittleenergytoperformneeded the Caribbean.Visitherwebsiteatwww.marissanieves.com. or overnight.Willkeeprefrigeratedforthree days. ents andmixtogether.Serveimmediately orletflavorssetinthefridgeforanhour until soft.Drainandcool.Addcookedbeans toalargebowlwithremainingingredi- life atyourfullestpotential. health aswell?Afterall,ingoodyouwillbeabletoexperienceallofsailing for yourfavoritebeandish. salad. Itcanbeusedasasidedish,an“onthego”snackwhilesailingorbase rots, redonion,spinach,cucumberandleeks. young coconuttojust-pickedtomatoes,celery,pumpkin,sweetpotato,lettuce,car- bananas, sweetpineapple,juicywatermelon,nutritioussoursop,pinkgrapefruitand healthy producerangingfromdeliciousmangoes,ripepawpaw(papaya),abundant create healthyandsimplemeals. all wonderfulcleansersandaregreatforloweringcholesterol. purifier andverygoodimmunebooster.Parsley,oregano,thymecorianderare oregano, thymeandcoriander.Amongotherqualities,turmericisanexcellentblood body fatloss. als forensuringhealthydigestion,sustainedenergy,muscularenduranceandeven selenium, thiamine,zinc,andvitaminsA,C,E,K,allessentialminer- chromium, cobalt,iron,magnesium,phosphorus,potassium,protein,riboflavin, For example,onesmallcupofstingingnettleteaisloadedwithcalcium,chlorophyll, spices alsoprovideessentialmineralsandaidwithfooddigestionabsorption. into excitingCaribbeanspicycuisine.Inadditiontogreattaste,someherbsand world’s fastestdinner(andtheydoubleupasawonderfulvegetablestock). such assugar,sucralose,colorsandpreservatives. the long-lifesectionoflargerlocalsupermarkets.Watchoutforhiddenadditives stock uponpre-packagedmilks.Youcanfindcleannut(almond/hazelnut)milksin raw “bush”honeyonboard.Ifyouarelowrefrigeration,mayalsowishto peanut, almond,hazelnut),localhomemadejams,100-percenttomatopasteand the oldbakedbeansfrom2006),Idoalwayshaveavarietyofnutbutters(fresh Keeping asupplyofrawnutsandseedsinthesamefashionisgoodwaytokeep Keeping airtightcontainersfilledwithrawnaturalgrainsanddriedbeansareeasy As wemaynotalwayshaveaccesstothebestinfreshproducewhilecruising A healthyapproachtotakewhensailingiskeepmealpreparationsimplewhile Similarly withprovisioning,ifacasualapproachistaken,yourstocksofhealthy Marissa Nieves,apersonaltrainerandnutritional consultant,iscurrentlysailingin Soak drybeansincleansaltwaterovernight. Rinseandboilinapotoffreshwater 1 tintunaorsardinescookedfreshfish(optional) 1/2 redonion,finelychopped 2 teaspoonfreshparsley,chopped 1 teaspoonlimeorlemonjuice 1 Tablespoonoliveoil 3 Tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar 1 springonion,finelychopped 1/2 cucumber,chopped 1 tomato,chopped 1/2 Cupyellowlentils 1 Cupbutterbeans 1 Cupkidneybeans (serves 4) Boater’s BeanSalad As yousetsailtoyourperfectsailingdestination,whynotsailsfor Cooking onboardcaneasilybemadefresh,simpleandfast.Trythisversatilebean Hit thefreshfoodmarketsinanyofislandstofindanarraylocallygrown Along withadiethighinfreshfruitandvegetables,thesebasicingredientswill Nutritional herbsandspicesincludecinnamon,turmeric,cumin,paprika,parsley, Herbs andspicesarealsoessentialprovisions.Theycanturnbasicricebeans I alwayskeepafewpacketsofinstantmisosoup,whichcouldpotentiallymakethe While Ihardlyeverkeepawidevarietyofcannedgoodsonhand(Ifinallythrewout H Perfect Health Provision for sails canbereefedearly! course. Thereisnopointtakingonthefullforceofbadweatherwhen Preparation iskeyandwisedecisionsarevitaltoensureplottingtheright ealthy eatingonboardtheboatisasimportantsetofyoursails. by MarissaNieves OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37
PRINCETON.EDU Steamed Cassava Pudding 2 pounds of sweet cassava, peeled and grated 1 Cup of fresh grated coconut 1 Tablespoon grated fresh ginger root 1/2 Cup brown sugar 4 whole cloves, slightly crushed Cinnamon and nutmeg may be added to your taste. four pieces of aluminum In a suitable bowl combine all ingredients. Tear off about Clove Tea Good for whatever ails you! 2 Cups water 1 Tablespoon whole cloves 1 stick cinnamon 1/2 Tablespoon ground nutmeg 1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 Tablespoon honey or brown sugar for ten minutes. Strain Boil water and spices for five minutes. Cover and let stand Spiced Lentil Soup Spiced Lentil or margarine 1 ounce butter chopped 1 large onion, chopped with leaves 1 stalk of celery, (red preferred) 1 Cup lentils 1 litre vegetable stock 1/4 Tablespoon ground cloves 1/4 Tablespoon ground allspice (optional) 1 hot pepper, seeded and minced salt and black pepper to taste a large skillet and fry the onion and celery lightly for 10 Method: Melt the butter in foil about two feet long. Fold each piece so it is doubled to a foot square. Spoon to a foot square. Spoon foil about two feet long. Fold each piece so it is doubled each piece. Fold and make a equal portions of the cassava mix into the center of this was made in seal. Steam for about 45 minutes and serve warm. Traditionally banana leaves. before adding lemon and honey. minutes, but do not brown. Add lentils, vegetable stock, and spices. Bring to a boil, Add lentils, vegetable stock, and spices. Bring to a boil, minutes, but do not brown. gently for half an hour, or until lentils are soft. Cool reduce heat and allow to simmer slightly before serving.
Tel: 458-3485 Tel: or you can call us at or you ALSO IN BEQUIA Ocar, Downstairs Coco’s Coco’s Downstairs Ocar, THE SPICE LOCKER BY SHIRLEY HALL LOCKER BY SHIRLEY THE SPICE WE ARE SITUATED IN ARE SITUATED WE [email protected] Tel: 456-2983 or Fax: 456-2987 or Fax: 456-2983 Tel: CALLIAQUA, ST. VINCENT ST. CALLIAQUA, , the Latin word for nail). Their unique aroma almost makes you feel , the Latin word for nail).
clavus
Cloves have a strong flavor so don’t add too many. Powdered cloves are even stronger.Cloves have a strong flavor so don’t add too many. Powdered or fish for a unique taste. ToA nice trick is to stick a few cloves in a piece of meat Two teaspoons have about 15 calories with plenty of minerals like manganese, Two teaspoons have about 15 calories with plenty of If you have a chill from wet weather, chewing cloves has a tendency to warm you. If you have a chill from wet weather, chewing cloves has Cloves are native to the Indonesian islands. Asians have used this spice for more Cloves are native to the Indonesian islands. Asians have The easiest way to grind fresh whole cloves into a powder is to use a coffee grinder.The easiest way to grind fresh whole cloves into a powder I recommend keeping all spices together, individually sealed, in a tight-sealing spices together, individually sealed, in a tight-sealing I recommend keeping all A different shore excursion can be searching out the local spice vendors at every can be searching out the local spice vendors at every A different shore excursion With their tapered stems, cloves resemble small carpenter’s nails (the name comes resemble small carpenter’s nails (the name comes With their tapered stems, cloves Fresh is best, especially when it comes to spices. The Caribbean is lucky to have a it comes to spices. The Caribbean is lucky to have Fresh is best, especially when We offer an excellent selection of imported cheese, an excellent selection of imported offer cheese, We etc. juices, prosciutto, turkey, salami, exotic meats, fish, salmon, & fresh smoked prawns, shrimp, Seafood, petit pain, such as baguettes, bread frozen steaks, lamb, etc. croissants, breads, grain multi large or small orders yacht charters, for Provisioning at home to enjoy villas or simply hotels, restaurants, for accepted. are make a unique, healthy dessert, add a few whole cloves to soft fresh fruits like mangosmake a unique, healthy dessert, add a few whole cloves cinnamon before serving. or bananas and bake for 20 minutes. Sprinkle with ground magnesium, calcium with vitamins K and C and omega 3 fats. Cloves are used in a magnesium, calcium with vitamins K and C and omega curry powders, and pickling number of spice mixtures including garam masala, spices. Cloves also help flavor Worcestershire sauce. Folklore says that sucking on two whole cloves — without chewing or swallowing Folklore says that sucking on two whole cloves — without of oil of cloves in water will them — helps to curb the desire for alcohol. A few drops crew! Essential oil of clove is stop vomiting and relieve nausea — great for seasick are considered to have a effective repellant against strep and staph bacteria. Cloves by relaxing the smooth positive effect on stomach ulcers, vomiting and flatulence local antiseptic and mild muscle lining of the digestive tract. Cloves have powerful dentists use clove oil as anesthetic actions, and a numbing effect on mouth tissues; active ingredient in several an oral anesthetic and disinfectant. Clove oil is an toothache pain-relief prepa- mouthwash products and a number of over-the-counter anti-microbial properties rations. Cloves kill intestinal parasites and exhibit broad use as a treatment for against fungi and bacteria, thus supporting its traditional and are even said to be an diarrhea, intestinal worms, and other digestive ailments, and clove essence is com- aphrodisiac. They are also an important in making incense monly used to produce many perfumes. than 2,000 years. Chinese would chew cloves to freshen their breath before address- than 2,000 years. Chinese would chew cloves to freshen brought cloves to Europe ing the emperor so as to not offend him. Arab traders were widely used because around the fourth century. During the Middle Ages cloves The Portuguese were the their pungent flavor hid the taste of poorly preserved foods. of cloves to Europe. first to control the spice trade. They brought large quantities the 1600s the trade became Cloves were then one of the most valuable spices. In for a century until the French dominated by the Dutch. The Dutch were successful including the Caribbean. grew the clove tree in various other tropical climates, plastic container. One grab and you have your entire spice rack. Every spice keeps plastic container. One grab and you have your entire better and longer in the refrigerator. island. The market in Castries, St. Lucia has an upstairs section that has many herb St. Lucia has an upstairs section that has many herb island. The market in Castries, quality clove will release some of its oil if you dig it with and spice vendors. A good determine freshness is to place a clove in a cup of water. a fingernail. Another trick to Stale will either sink or float horizontally. Ground Good quality will float vertically. won’t stay fresh as long as whole cloves. If you locate cloves are also available but in a glass container in a cool, dark place. fresh cloves keep them sealed from mouth is flooded with a very sharp but delicious taste. warm. Chew one, and your climate that produces many tasty spices, like cloves. Fresh cloves are considerably tasty spices, like cloves. Fresh cloves are considerably climate that produces many and sealed, and they are much bigger. Fresh-from- more fragrant than those boxed to as they dry they turn a deep maroon. They can be up the-tree cloves are pink and The large end of the clove is actually the immature, three quarters of an inch long. bud of a tropical tree. unopened four-pointed flower
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O f f i c e s Dear Dear Mermaid ofCarriacou John Smith and Joyously! obligation touseallmycreditsWisely,Responsibly, Water, Tools,ClothingandFire.TomydebitsIowethe credit IhaveLife,Health,Freedom,Shelter,Food, inventory, an“accounting”ifyouwill,andtomy knot isfor. if anyonethereevenknowswhataMatthewWalker reeve the“jungfrau”(virgins)ordeadeyes,anddoubt island sloopwhoseboatswainknowshowtoproperly the peak!AndyaknowIhavenotyetseenanother keeping itsensignattheendofboom.Itbelongs would turnoverinhisdeepwaterygrave. do NOTcheckseizings!RogerFothergillof have notimeforcrewthatknowhowtopolishbutwho Guess Ijusthaveadifferentperspectiveonthings. and theoneattwoo’clockisactuallycomingunscrewed! not oneofthethreeshacklesinphotoareseized, Eilean the boomwhereIhaveabronzestar.Onboardof in 1936),withaveryprettybronzeplateontheendof and alsoaphotooftheboomend photo ofalovelyvesselovertakingCarriacousloop, a photoonpage24ofthatedition.Thereinwas as aretheflashbacks,Iwassomewhattakenabackby across acopyfromJune2012.Lovelyscentofhome. to becreepingintothiscornerofHonduras,asIcame Guanaja, andahurricaneholecloseby. — butonlytwootherboastshereintheBighton Dear S/V SeaSchell Harry andMelindaSchell our stainlesssteelpotsandpans. stains andlessthanUS$2.Wealsouseittocleanall It isatotallyamazingproductforremovingrustand store whereyouwouldfindcometorothercleansers. oxalic acidproductfoundinanygroceryorhardware stainless andisextremelycheap.Itapowdered on stainlesssteel.Ittakestherustrightoff,shines call “BarKeeper’sFriend”thatwehaveusedforyears cleaning. MyhusbandandIfoundafantasticproduct article intheSeptemberissueonstainlesssteeland needs TV?” often saytoTrich,“Withacomedyact like this,who bareboaters anchoringortryingtoanchor. Iwould Formerly wewouldwatchtheanticsof inexperienced buoys eliminatedoneofourevening amusements. most wereholeduponMoorSecure buoys. These the wholeperiodofblow,fewboats weresailing; any boats,dragginganchor!Wenoticed thatduring on theVHFweheardnostoriesofbareboats, orinfact time 30knots,andattimesgustingto 40 knots.Yet the gatesofhellforfourdays.Asteady25,most Winds arrivedwithavengeance.Thehingesblewoff I weresailingintheBritishVirginswhenChristmas of heavyweather. dragging downonotherboatsorashoreduringperiods eliminated theproblemofpoorlyanchoredbareboats moorings intheVirginIslands.Thesehave complaining ofunreliabilitythe“MoorSecure” Caribbean islands,butnevercanIremembersailors installed andprivatelyinstalled)invariousEastern larly readsofunreliablemoorings(bothgovernment- ings intheSeptembereditionof FFORUM RREADERS' FLASHBACKS KEEP ITCLEAN Other thanthat…Iamwell.haverecentlytakenan The Carriacousloopseemstobehavingatoughtime However, asbeautifularethephotosandgood Rain, rain,rainhereintheBayIslandsofHonduras SECURE MOORINGS Just aquickadditiontoMauriceHowland’sgreat Over ChristmasandNewYears2005-6mywife Don Stollmeyermentionedtheissueofprivatemoor- O E Compass Compass Compass thisplatehasbeenobviouslypolished—while R A U D , , , M E R S '
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Monday, September9th,2013in Bonaire to ChrisDoyle’s Ambassador fromVenezuela,awriterandcontributor Dear Glandore, Ireland DM Street,Jr. islands willbeended done, theunreliablemooringprobleminsouthern ers, regularlyinspectedandmaintained.Ifthisis using sandscrewsnotanchors,properchainsandris- emulate MoorSecure’smethodofinstallingmoorings: — theywillmostlikelybequietandmooring-free. circle thoseanchoragesthatonlyappearinmybook ings. Buybothbooks,readthemside-by-side,and with bareboaters,andthuslikelytobefullofmoor- Islands Nancy andSimonScott’s from westernPuertoRicoeastwardstoAnegada. Islands Guide toPuertoRico,Spanish,USandBritishVirgin friend aboardthesailboat cruiser, RobertSterenburg,whowaswithhisgirl- the mostreadofthatday’snews. tion oftheauthoritiesandpublic.Itrankedamong leading newspaperinVenezuela,callingfortheatten- is allbutimpossibletoanchor.However,my the harborsaresocrowdedwithmooringballsthatit —Continuedonnextpage the crimeratioisnotthatbad”. of alinedrawnfromArubatothewestern endofHaiti, ering thehugenumberofyachtsinCaribbean east many differentdeeds.Dongoesontosay that“consid- mugged orworse!“Crime”maybeone word butitis them.” Wereitthatsimple,noonewould everbe “just takenoteofthepocketscrime andavoid while wecruise. but itis,sadly,afactoflifethatwemustcopewith should notbethefocusofeverythingthatwediscuss skies andCaribbeansun”articles.Surely,crime journals simplyoverlookthesubjectinfavorof“blue ing boats.Thisisnotaneasythingtodoandmany topic ofcrimeintheCaribbeanasitrelatestocruis- the couragethateditorshaveincovering Dear Caracas, Venezuela Oscar HernándezBernalette other forms. that ismuchmoreprofitableforthecountrythan you shouldtakeintoyourhandstoencouragetourism Bolivarian RepublicofVenezuela,hereisanissuethat Minister Izarra,asforTourismofthe by thenauticalauthoritiesandministriesalike.Dear this issue. cal forumsandjournalsarebitterlyconcernedwith the watersofVenezuela.Someinternationalnauti- that internationalyachtingcommunitycrosses avoid thebadimageofcountrythatexistsin no clearpolicytodefendyachtingvisitorsandthus to thisissueinthesensethatitseemsthereis overly violentnatureofthese. was notsomuchthenumberofincidentsbut Caribbean. Asourcesaidthattheproblemforyachts today thehighestinstanceofcriminalityinall of securityandtheapathyauthorities.Wehave States, itbecameaninhospitableplaceowingtolack spot forthe“yachties”fromEuropeandUnited that whiletheVenezuelancoastswereonceafavorite a dramaticreporttitled,“Venezuela:IsItSafe?”says the Caribbeanandpreferredinnauticalsector, for safenavigation. Marta andCartagena.Thecoastguardofferssecurity to visitthatcountryandtakeadvantageofSanta relations allovertheworld,invitingrecreationalboats rity inVenezuelaandhasreleasedapolicyofpublic developments underway. with theHemingwayMarinaandnewnauticaltourism Caribbean, includingCuba,whichhasitsdoorsopen is alsotrueforthemajorityofislands positive impactthatyachttourismhasforlocals.This received properlyandgovernmentisawareofthe prefer tobeanchoredinTrinidadwheretheyare Venezuelans onthecoastsofcountry;todaythey industry andcreatingemploymentforyoung and contributingtothedevelopmentofamarine Thousands offoreignshipswereonceinourwaters boaters. Theystoppedvisitingusformanyyears. adding tothestatisticsasmostunsafecountryfor at thehandsofcriminalunderworld.Wecontinue visited morethan50countries,metdeathinMargarita I amaregularsailorintheGrenadines,retired A CALLFORATTENTION The organizationsinthesouthernislandsshould Death returnstothecoastsofVenezuela.ADutch Mistreatment ofYachtingTourism Cruisers intheBVIdocomplain,however,thatall Donald StreetwroteintheAugustedition of I wouldliketoacknowledge SAFETY FIRST No doubtthisisanissuethatneedstobeaddressed Once afewyearsago,inthissamevein,Ireferred The Colombia takesadvantageofthesituationinsecu- Compass Compass Compass . Followingisatranslationofmycolumn describes alltheanchoragesthatarepopular describes indetaileverypossibleanchorage , Readers, magazine,whichisproducedforall Cruising GuidetoVenezuelaand Mary Eliza Cruising GuidetotheVirgin Caribbean Compass El Universal , andafterhaving Compass, Street’s , the for OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass ‘Coconuts 101’ VHF Radio and You … and much more! Read in Next Cruising through Caribbean Culture Month’s JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s Readers, Readers, Compass Compass Here’s a short update on the activities of friends of We are improving the fish farms and building more The Cayman boat has been continuously used as a The generators are both working. The library has elec- I have a big load of aid to sail down this fall or winter. Please get in touch if you’d like to help with any of WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! We want to hear from YOU! Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. R eaders’ Forum Box 175BQ, Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines A beautiful shoreline with many uncrowded anchor- with many uncrowded A beautiful shoreline there are many countriesThe Caribbean is large and Project, the rule of * According to the World Justice and agents, as well • The government and its officials stable and just, are • The laws are clear, publicized, laws are enacted, admin- • The process by which the by competent, ethical, • Justice is delivered timely FRIENDS OF ILE-À-VACHE Ile-à-Vache in Haiti. water cisterns. I have eight solar panels to install on the fish farms to provide aeration for the ponds to increase the harvest. I am concentrating on food and water that they can manage on their own. If the project is not sustainable by Haitians I do not start it. They have fished out the area all around Ile-à-Vache so fish farms are of big interest. Tilapia are grown in our ponds; a thousand now available for harvest. water ambulance. It has saved lives. It has been main- tained with care. Wagner is proud of it. Unfortunately it hit a net that had steel line in it and the transmission burned out. I shipped it for repairs via a visiting yacht, to the USA, but in reality the engine is physically too big. It is not worth fixing and shipping back. We could Iuse a simpler smaller engine if one is available. bought one for Wagner in Haiti but it will not last. That boat is on the move all the time. I have repaired it with epoxy at times, as it carries heavy loads. tricity so visiting aid workers have some power. Samuel’s store is doing well as he has ice. His new fridge, pro- vided by us, is fed by solar and his generator. Having ice is a big item. In the photo, the bucket with the spout on the left is a water filter system. We provided over 50 of these to the village. We would like to get more. Samuel is able to provide meals for tourists at his store/restau- rant. This is a good source of income. our projects. Bruce Leeming [email protected] Dear address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Please keep letters shorter than 600 words. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. ing community avoided Colombia for so many years avoided Colombia for so ing community a similar record. when it demonstrated alluring as fuel and rations are as ages and cheap for our us can come up with reasons sirens. All of reasoning is area is okay; however the belief that the number of less than objective. The flawed by being declined dra- that visit Venezuela has cruising boats from the last five years and testimony matically over the old adage in the country bears out many of those fear to tread!” “Fools rush in where angels a good track record for put- that you can visit that have where the rule of law isting your safety first. Countries are concerned thatenforced and where the authorities high on your list. you be kept safe should be Frank Virgintino, author Free Cruising Guides the following four universal law is a system in which principles are upheld: entities, are accountable as individuals and private under the law. fundamental rights, includ- applied evenly, and protect and property. ing the security of persons fair and efficient. istered and enforced is accessible, and independent representatives and neutrals who are of sufficient number, have adequate resources, and reflect the makeup of the communities they serve. Dear there such as Las Caribbean Compass to the north, are high. The reasoning that The best way to reduce risk is to avoid of crime against cruisers are high and the say that the odds will catch up with you.
That is what we do with rocks and reefs and bad Continued from previous page Continued from Use your sails to “vote” and route around locations My level of concern rises when cruisers take their When we go cruising, we cannot eliminate all risk. It is simple to understand that Venezuela is very We do not go cruising to see if we can beat the odds. Most recently the owner of a yacht anchored off I have consistently, over the last five years, recom- I have consistently, over the In the September issue of that have high crime rates. Avoid any country that has a demonstrated history of violence, just like the cruis- children to dangerous countries. Adults can decide whether to visit or avoid a place, but underage chil- dren go along with their parents or guardians without understanding the risks or having a say in whether they want to be exposed to those risks. If you have children, cruising with them in risky areas goes to the heart of responsible parental decision-making. it. weather, and that is what cruisers ought to do when they decide to cruise to a foreign country with a record like that of Venezuela. If a country’s record is not per- fect, you can still decide to go if you take the necessary precautions. If the record is dismal and includes vio- lence, avoid it, regardless of what someone else (who may have been lucky) has to say. The best that we can hope to do is minimize it. The risks of rocks and reefs and risks of bad weather, as well as risks of being attacked, are among our con- cerns and we need to evaluate each of them carefully and work to keep ourselves and our boats from becom- ing a statistic. beautiful and that fuel and food are so inexpensive as to wet the jowls of even the best-financed cruiser. However, read carefully through the Caribbean Safety and Security Net data (www.caribbeansafetyandsecuiri- tynet.com), Noonsite (www.noonsite.com) and the anal- ysis undertaken by the Caribbean Security Index (www. freecruisingguide.com). You will be able to study all types of crime in different locations. You will note the sheer amount of violent crime in Venezuela against the cruising community in recent years. A few years back, a cruiser was attacked aboard his yacht in Simpson Bay, St. Maarten, and left for dead. However, it appears that that incident was a “one off”. In Venezuela we have a clear case of repetition without variation: robberies committed with violence, even murder. The definition of cruising is broad, but for most of us The definition of cruising is broad, but for most of us it does not include putting ourselves and our guests in mortal danger. How many cruisers would now cruise through the Red Sea without a second thought? Consider that Venezuela today is the “Red Sea” of the Caribbean. In the Red Sea pirates prosper because they are beyond the reach of the rule of law. That is how it is in Venezuela. Anyone can rob you, even hurt you, and then disappear into a very large country. you can beat the odds is not sound. If you take a gun that has one bullet in its six chambers and you put it to your head and fire and the gun does not go off, does that mean that the gun is safe? No, what it means is that you were very lucky. Every time that you pull that trigger and do not get hurt you continue to be lucky but the probabilities probabilities of violent crime Roques, are safe and can be used as a stop on the way to the ABC islands.” How can they be declared “safe”? All of Venezuela is suspect and should be avoided by cruising boats at this time. Forget that some people believe there are safe areas and forget that some cruis- ers have cruised there and not been assaulted. The probabilities Margarita was killed and his girlfriend seriously hurt in a boarding. There was a time when some would say, “Yes, Venezuela has crime, but the islands of Venezuela are safe.” Now we hear, “Yes, Venezuela has crime, but the islands of Venezuela mended avoiding Venezuela completely. Is that too mended avoiding Venezuela of risk? The truth is harsh a warning? An exaggeration between Venezuela and that there is a big difference Caribbean. In almost every the other countries in the the rule of law* is pres- other country in the Caribbean a country without the rule ent. Venezuela is currently is a great deal of crime. of law and, as a result, there told that people who own Those in poverty have been from them is appro- yachts are rich and that stealing not a criminal; however, priate. Every Venezuelan is things and there is desperate people do desperate at this time. Crime in great desperation in Venezuela Venezuela is not just theft but is also frequently accompanied by violence. were a number of articles covering the pros and cons were a number of articles What makes Venezuela of cruising through Venezuela. the rest of the Caribbean? different, if anything, from that country”? Are there “safe areas within — If it means what “not that bad” means. I do not know I would of being killed are not high, that the odds cruising not think that crime against agree, but I do as a lesser should be taken boats in the Caribbean when we other risk we prepare for threat than any articles on thought that perhaps my go cruising. Don the amount may have overstated how to avoid crime the days of affects cruising boats, but of crime that long since the hatches wide open have sleeping with crime than others and passed. Some areas have more than others. some areas more violent crime OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 all theyearswecruised). rental car). must appearatImmigrationwithin24hoursofarrival(oftenrequiringataxior US byprivatevessel: Dear from aprivateindividual! be obtainedinadvancefromanaccreditedRussiantravelcompany,ayachtclubor formalities inCubaandjusthalfapageonRussia.ARussianvisamay ing tovisittheUS.Bycomparison,Cornellhasonlythree-quartersofapageon Cruising Destinations requirements foreign-flaggedyachtsfacetocruisetheUSA!JimmyCornell’s about clearinginandoutofeveryport.Goodheavens—comparethiswiththe inexplicably urgedyachtiestogo—NOW!Three-fourthsofthearticlecomplained east andsouth. were muchnicerthansomewe’veencounteredincertainunnamedislandsfurther cut fromwhatlookedlikeascrapplankofcheapwood.Mosttheofficialswemet our boatonahotdayandrefusedtotakeevensodafromus.Hisoarswerehand- cumstances. Wetowedoneofficial’srowboatbacktothedockafterherowedout tered weregenerallyefficient,polite,anddoingtheirjobsunderlessthanidealcir- of ourwalletwhenwerefused.Hewaslaterfired.Theresttheofficialsencoun- of theofficialsatMarinaHemingwayinsistedonabribeandtook20-dollarbillout delightful CommodoreEscrichattheHemingwayInternationalYachtClub. up manygoodmemoriesofourcruisingthereyearsago,includingmeetingthe Cuba articlebyBrendaWebb.Therewassomewonderfulphotographythatbrought • Allvesselsmusthavearegistered406MhzEPIRBonboard(weneverhadonein • ForeignyachtsareroutinelyinspecteduponarrivalintheUS,andwholecrew Some highlightsfromCornell’s Unfortunately, thearticlewasfilledwithreasons Like Brenda,wealsofoundtheauthoritiesinSantiagotobeannoyinglyslow.One Just wantedtotellyouhowexcitedIwaswhensawtheAugustcoverand aon40S 03-OnrVrin 220000 € 550000 € SOLD 599000€ 259000€ 179000€ 49000€ 179000€ 100000US$ 89000€ Lagoon 410S2-2003OwnerVersion Lagoon 470-20023CabinsNewEngines Lagoon 500-2011 3Cabins-LikeNew Jeanneau SUNODYSSEY 37-1996Ownerboat DUFOUR 385-2005 ATTRACTIVE PRICE Beneteau 50-2007OwnerVersion Hunter Marine-2007Privateboatfulloptions Beneteau Oceanis500-1988Charterversion Amel SuperMaramu2000Superb Amel 542008fulloptions 110 HP Volvo! .GensetWater Maker Air CondFulloptions1 Year Amel Compass Warranty -LikeNew599000€ AMEL 542008 , hasoneandahalfpagesonformalitiesforforeignyachtswish- explore ashore was agoodplacetoleaveyachtatanchorand Brenda WebbwrotethatCienfuegos,aportofentry, the Month Letter of Destinations CATAMARANS MONOHULLS regardingformalitiesforenteringthe Charter Version -4Cabins/heads not Lagoon 410S2-2006 2* 40HP 160000€ to sailCuba,andthen
World DAVID MORGAN (2) MORGAN DAVID S/V HabaneroIII Elena Pimiento Besos, once youarethere. the relativelyminornuisanceofclearinginandoutmakeitjustthatmorespecial had focusedmoreonwhytogo.Cubahassomuchofferthecruisingyacht,and increased pressure. Cubans arestrongenoughtopreservetheircultureandenvironmentunderthat try willbebombardedbyanew,wealthyclassoftourist,andletushopethe month’s BusinessBriefs,page9. continued togrow.[ services forforeignvisitors.Itwouldbemyguessthatthetouristindustryhas eased manyrestrictionsonprivatecitizensandcompaniestoattractprovide discovered thewondersofthisuniquelandanditssurroundingwaters.Fidelhad tourism. European,Mexican,CanadianandSouthAmericantouristshadalready years ago.Whenwewerethere,thecountryhadalreadystartedtofixitselfupfor about returningfromCubatotheUS. before theUSVIandPRofficialsfollowtheirlead. mainland thanintheVirginIslands,atleastfornow,butit’sjustamatteroftime year, norenewalsuntilaftera15-dayabsencefromthecountry. exempted fromthisrequirementandmayobtainacruisinglicense,validforone berth, evenitisinthesameport,orfaceaUS$5,000fine.Somecountriesare Puerto RicoandSt.Thomas.) International Regattaandthereducedinternationalattendanceatregattasin City, andTrinidad.(Thisisoneexplanationforthenear-demiseofSt.Croix embassies onlyinBarbados,Belize,Caracas,Curacao,Haiti,Jamaica,Panama consulate, whenarrivingbyprivatevessel.ForCaribbeancruisers,thereare — meansdumpingyourmeat,meatproducts,freshproduceandplants. I mustagreewiththearticleaboutgoingtoCuba—NOW!Butwishauthor From thephotosyoupublished,Cubaseemstobeinbettershapethanitwas All yachtiesarewelcomeinCuba—itisonlyUSvesselsandcrewswhoneedworry Customs andImmigrationofficialsarefarmorestringentinenforcementontheUS • Foreign-flaggedvesselsmustnotifyHomelandSecuritywhenmovingtoanew • Allnon-UScitizensmusthaveavisa,obtainedinadvanceatUSEmbassyor • ArrivingintheUSfromanywhere—includingUSVI,PuertoRicoandHawaii Editor’s note:Indeed.See“Cuba’sMega-MarinaProject”inthis ] OncethefloodgatesfromUSopen,coun- music everywhere of Cubanculture:live An unforgettableaspect OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 2,000,000 $950,000 €340,000 $ 2007 73’ Executive Catana 2007 50’ Catana 2000 47’ $83,500 Santa Cruz 53’ 1981 Cheoy Lee $749,000 $619,000 €4.900.000
2008 89’ Catana 2008 89’
Lagoon 2008 50’ 1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 1999 60’ Sail Power [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 775-4803 www.stthomasyachts.com
at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 www.stthomasyachts.com , Fajardo Readers! When in Puerto Rico , pick up your free monthly copy ): PICK UP! Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, bold Compass $239,000 SunnyRay Caribbean Compass Ahoy, of the appear in 38’ 1994 Manta Catamaran Culebra Isleta Marina, Fajardo Marina Pescaderia, Cabo Rojo Palmas del Mar Yacht Club, Humacao Puerto del Rey Marina, Fajardo Sunbay Marina West Marine, Fajardo ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES YACHT THOMAS ST. 37’ 1997 Hunter AP, sugar scoop, clean 40’ 1992 Caliber, 2 strms, 2 heads, great cond. 44’ 1977 CSY full bimini and dodger, new main 47’ 1983 Vagabond Voyager, needs work 63,000 trailer 26’ 2001 Twin Vee Extreme Twin Honda 4 strokes, 98,000 35’ 2002 Maxum 3500 Mercruiser 320 HP, genset 69,000 28,000 125,000 40’ 2000 Cruiser Express, 2 strms, AP, 60,000 48’ 2004 Dyna Craft MY 3 strms, A/C 250,000 66,900 list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website for a complete See ad on page 13 See ad on page 15 See ad on page 11 went to press — but plans change, s www.bvitourism.com/anegadalobsterfestival Tournament, Nevis Yacht Club, Tournament, Nevis Yacht Club,
Festival. CALENDAR Compass [email protected] and date(s) of the event and the name in our monthly calendar, please send the name Annual Nevis Fishing
and contact information of the organizing body to BVI Restaurant Week. www.bvitourism.com/restaurantweek Anegada Lobster Mango Bowl Regatta, St. Lucia. If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE
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All information was correct to the best of our knowledge Caribbean Sailing Association AGM and Caribbean Sailing Association Public holiday in Montserrat (Liberation Day) St. Lucia’s ARC Flotilla. [email protected] Start of ARC+ Cape Verdes rally from Gran Canaria via Cape Verdes 4th Annual Caribbean Rum & Beer Festival, Grenada. See ad on page 11 Public holiday in Venezuela (Day of Indigenous Resistance) Public holiday in Venezuela 20th St. Croix Yacht Club International Regatta. o please contact event organizers directly for confirmation. Dyke. Halloween Cat Fight (catamaran regatta), Jost Van 16th Foxy’s Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC), Caribbean Dinghy Championship, J/24 Club of Barbados, J/24 Barbados Match Racing Championships, Discover the Caribbean Dinghy Races, Puerto Rico. catamarans). www.stbarthcatacup.com St. Barth Cata Cup (F18 Trafalgar Regatta, BVI. RBVIYC World Creole Music Festival, Dominica. www.wcmfdominica.com Boat Races, Puerto Rico. Discover the Caribbean – Big Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club Jolly Harbour Caribbean Regatta, Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org 46th Bonaire International Sailing Fajardo-Ponce Feeder Race, Puerto Rico. Discover the Caribbean Show, Tortola. www.bvicrewedyachts.com/boatshow BVI Charter Yacht Triskell Cup Regatta, Guadeloupe. Course de l’Alliance, St. Martin. www.coursedelalliance.com the Grenadines (Independence Day) Public holiday in St. Vincent & Antigua National Heritage Day, Start of ARC rally from Gran Canaria to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Public holiday in Suriname (Republic Day) Public holiday in Barbados (Independence Day) 23rd Annual Gustav Wilmerding Memorial Challenge, Tortola. West End
Championship. [email protected] Curaçao Youth Sunfish Bay, Tortola, Fire Ball FULL MOON Party, Trellis Public holiday in Haiti (Battle of Vertieres Day) Public holiday in Belize (Garifuna Settlement Day) Public holiday in Belize (Pan American Day), Public holiday in Haiti (Anniversary of the Death of Dessalines) at Nevis FULL MOON Parties at Trellis Bay and West End, Tortola, and Club (RBVIYC), Cup Race, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Virgin’s Day) Public Holiday in BVI (St. Ursula’s Day) and Curaçao (Antillean Thanksgiving Regatta, Grenada Woburn Public holiday in Grenada (Thanksgiving Day) at the time this issue of Haiti (All Souls’ Day) Public holiday in Junior Regatta, Grenada Clarkes Court Bay Marina Dominica (Independence Day) Public holiday in Start of Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas rallies from Chesapeake USA (Independence Day) and Haiti (All Saints’ Day) Antigua & Barbuda Public holiday in St. Lucia (Thanksgiving Day) 30 - Dec 1 TBA www.nevisyachtclub.com 26 – 27 26 – 27 www.foxysbar.com 26 – Nov 2 Regatta Organizers’ Conference, Puerto Rico. www.caribbean-sailing.com 27 31 www.beyc.com (BEYC). [email protected], 24 www.worldcruising.com/arc 24 25 30 30 29 - Dec 1 Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 496-8685, [email protected] 23 2 2 2 – 3 www.discoverpyfc.com 3 3 6 – 9 (Diwali) and Trinidad & Tobago 7 – 10 www.discoverpyfc.com Abacos, Bahamas. www.worldcruising.com/carib1500 to Tortola, BVI and 9 – 10 www.jhycantigua.com 15 – 17 - 15 – 17 tel (268) 770-6172, [email protected], (JHYC), Antigua. www.antiguayachtclub.com 16 – 17 [email protected] 460-1799, [email protected], tel/fax (268) 17 17 18 18 - 26 www.aragornsstudio.com/fire.htm. Bomba’s Shack Full Moon Party, 19 West End, Tortola 20 22 – 23 and Cayman Islands (Remembrance Day) 22 – 24 to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. www.worldcruising.com/arc www.discoverpyfc.com 22 – Dec 1 NOVEMBER 1 1 - 3 3 6 -12 12 14 17 18 and the Bahamas (Discovery Day) 19 and Jamaica (National Heroes’ Day) 19 - 20 21 23 tel (284) 494-3286, [email protected], www.royalbviyc.org 25 25 - 27 26 OCTOBER
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D J O U W K 3’ ; < D F I W K W OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 , available at Amazon.com. cannot be matched. Marine A Small Slip Insurance My claims settlement record www.street-iolaire.com insurance. You never know how good The insurance business has changed. insurance, but there is no good cheap No longer can brokers talk of low rates. Rather, the honest broker can only say, your insurance is until you have a claim. There is good insurance, there is cheap “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” e-mail: [email protected] I have been connected with the marine insurance business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. in Venezuelan waters. Most are operated by piñeros On unavoidable local trips such as deliveries we now plan the voyages so that we On unavoidable local trips such as deliveries we now They prey. We pray. Cris Robinson is a marine surveyor and author of The Guardia Nacional have some old cutters capable of maybe ten knots trying to catch capable of maybe ten knots have some old cutters The Guardia Nacional Grenada, Venezuela altogether, preferring many cruisers avoid For these reasons from the Lesser Antilles now avoid Paria, Testigos, and Most boats travelling west barricade ourselves inside the safer marinas,Those of us who stay in Venezuela to heavy weaponry like the locals, but this can lead Some have Rambo-ed up with hardworking fishermen who can also be the victims of pirates — but the bad guys hardworking fishermen who can also be the victims of use these boats, too There are thousands of leave and enter ports in the daytime, and, after taking Prozac, head straight offshore leave and enter ports in the daytime, and, after taking The higher the wind and at max speed to be well over the horizon during the night. lights except when ships are rougher the seas the better. At night we travel without over their heads if we have near. If piñeros approach us we wave them off and shoot the artillery. surprise and shock will render you defenceless while they take over the boat. while they take over shock will render you defenceless surprise and skiffs which are and a few smaller but faster can easily do 15 to 20 knots, piñeros which used by the The twin outboard launch due to mechanical problems. often out of action La Cruz was stolen recently! the canals of El Morro in Puerto police to patrol season. as safer refuges from the hurricane ABC Islands and Colombia Trinidad, the is now a safe dangerous for boats, which used to be extremely Ironically Colombia, state and local effort between the destination thanks to a concerted and attractive for tourism. to clean up the region forces, and local citizens government, security Las at the outer islands of Tortuga, Los Roques, and Margarita, perhaps stopping too suffered serious incidents, probably because they are Aves, which have not so far piñeros to operate. far offshore for coast-based sleeping lightly because boats have also been attackedunder self-imposed curfews, while the security guards snoozed.and robbed even inside marinas and also may actually attract putative pirates looking problems with the authorities, soldiers are regularly murdered in Venezuela for their for weapons. Policemen and might deter some attackers (a flare fired or thrown guns. Flare guns and machetes but gasoline tank will certainly distract the occupants) into a piñero near the plastic AK47s and the like. are not much good against was killed in the Isla Chill by Cris Robinson
WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S
would be irresponsible to publish articles like the one describing would be irresponsible to publish articles like the one , open boats from about 12 to 30 feet long driven by outboards. There
piñeros Venezuela’s Pirates Venezuela’s The authorities are not able to reverse this situation. The attackers use the ubiq- Local fishermen were also attacked while out at night and were stripped of their Local fishermen were also attacked while out at night and were stripped of their In Puerto La Cruz the Bahia Redonda boatyard manager, Pierre, was murdered Along the coasts attacks against cruisers became more numerous and more vio- In 1998 Chavez was elected President after failing to install himself in a military Cruisers and eco-adventure tourists still came, however, and cruisers became a Cruisers and eco-adventure tourists still came, however, Then Caribbean destinations like the Dominican Republic and Mexico became Then Caribbean destinations like the Dominican Republic Margarita Island was declared a duty-free zone and new hotels sprang up like Margarita Island was declared a duty-free zone and Then came the boom years when tourist companies and cruisers discovered a Then came the boom years when tourist companies I have lived in Venezuela for 40 years and sailed its coast from Los Testigos to Los I have lived in Venezuela for 40 years and sailed its coast I thought the article “Venezuela: Is It Safe?” in the September issue was good. I thought the article “Venezuela: Is It Safe?” in the uitous outboard motors and fishing gear and left adrift, with bullet wounds if they tried to outboard motors and fishing gear and left adrift, with bullet wounds if they tried to resist. The pirates left the local sports fishing fleet owned by upperclass Venezuelans alone, however, because they are well armed and ready to defend themselves. I met one Mako owner who showed me his collection of pistols and rifles, then capped it by pulling out a case of hand grenades. I believe that in the good old days the pirates assumed foreign boats were also well armed but eventually realized that most cruisers do not carry guns. For this reason, flying a Venezuelan flag may help to dissuade attacks. are probably about 50,000 piñeros along the 2,000 kilometres of coastline. The vast majority are used by innocent fishermen, often victims of attack themselves, but some are also smugglers and pirates. These boats approach you at anchor or under- way and offer to sell fish or lobsters, or ask for water. There is no way to tell if they are dangerous until they get close and pull out guns and start shooting, hoping Borracha incident. We all pulled our heads out of the sand. with his wife in their car by hired gunmen outside the boatyard gate when arriving to work on a Monday morning. Nobody was ever arrested for this crime. The Aqua-Vi yard manager, Victor, was attacked, kidnapped and extorted with threats to his fam- ily and had to leave the country. Then Ken Peters on lent; guns now replaced knives and machetes, and victims were often wounded or killed. Not only Paria, but Cariaco, Mochima, and the Porlamar and Puerto La Cruz roads became frequent targets; cruisers stopped using the anchorages and moved into the marinas. coup, and armed the lower classes to help protect him against further military coups. The bad guys got 9mm Glocks and AK47s and the police and judges were told not to prosecute “the people”. Violent crime increased on land to the point where in 2012 there were around 16,000 violent deaths, that is more than 40 every day, and the indictment rate for murder is less than ten percent — that is to say, in over 90 percent of these cases nobody was even brought to trial. target for pirates. This first started along the wild Paria peninsular coast, an area target for pirates. This first started along the wild Paria Venezuela and Trinidad was where smuggling of drugs, people, and guns between coast at night to avoid the also growing rapidly. Boats clawing their way along the and robbed as they rested in strong easterly trades and the current were boarded secluded bays. cheaper and more attractive than Venezuela and the daily charter flights from cheaper and more attractive than Venezuela and the built were left unfinished, Canada and Europe went there instead. New hotels being Beach where the employees while operating ones went bankrupt, including the Doral rooms in lieu of the sever- stripped furniture and fittings from the bungalow-style ance payments they were owed. pimples on a teenager’s face and were filled to bursting with packaged tourists. pimples on a teenager’s face and were filled to bursting Prices and crime rates rose accordingly. country with an incredible variety of unspoiled scenery, cheap fuel, and free from country with an incredible variety of unspoiled scenery, boatyards and marinas, hurricanes. The infrastructure of hotels and restaurants, prosperity and employment. and small tourist companies expanded rapidly, creating Beach, was built in Puerto La The biggest capacity hotel in South America, the Doral a hundred boats anchored off Cruz and during the hurricane season there would be tables in the restaurants. the Paseo Colon, where tourists queued up waiting for Monjes, both in my own boats and while delivering other boats. When I first arrived Monjes, both in my own boats and while delivering other boats, and one could anchor it was a cruiser’s paradise with very few visiting foreign in exchange for rum, ciga- anywhere. Local fishermen would offer fish and lobsters but violent crime virtually rettes or even fresh water. Petty thieving was common non-existent. the Chapmans’ trip without also pointing out the dangers. They were lucky. the Chapmans’ trip without also pointing out the dangers. 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E-mail: [email protected] in BarbadosTel:(246)826-2299 $200,000US. CallPaulJohnson $250,000US butaskingonly 2012. Boatvaluedat troit 892V8diesels,overhauled dition. Built1985.Engines2xDe- 46’6” BERTRAM [email protected]. Contact tophotosE-mail: US$59,000. LyingSt.Lucia. dive orcoastalcruise. instruments. Lowhrs.fish, ator, fullrigidbimini,A/C, Yanmar, bowthruster,gener- large cockpit,200hpTurbo- Florida. Beautifulboatwith ACADIA 25byAtlasBoat thorsson.canalblog.com Details and French registrationUS$77,000. cedar. Excellentcondition, racer/cruiser, stripplanked 38' RIBADEAUDUMAS1998 [email protected] Tel: (268)464-0845E-mail: as iswhereis,lyingAntigua price forurgentsaleU$69,000 Stable strongboat.Reduced planking renewed2011/13. USCG certificate).Bottom ideal daycharter(lapsed ry, readytogocruisingor sel, lotsofsails,goodinvento- Harris forNeilLewis.GMdie- built 1983onNevisbyRalph 48' WESTINDIESSCHOONER photos atwww. ] Excellentcon- of of IT / 8 C/W 35/45 21 MP 48 St.Lucia SintMaarten 37 33 UK 19 SVG LIAT 39 Johnson Hardware 18 11 Island WaterWorld 34 Grenada SVG Iolaire Enterprises SVG Mp St.Maarten Intouchable MarineServices Grenada 18 Grenada Grenadines Sails 35 Grenadine AirAlliance Caribbean RumFestival Tortola C/W Grenada Marine Trinidad Gourmet Food 4 Golden HindChandlery USA 39 Free CruisingGuides Food Fair 36 MP International Electropics Trinidad Tortola Edward WilliamInsurance MP Echo Marine St.Lucia Grenada Doyle's Guides MP Doyle OffshoreSails Down IslandRealEstate Dominica Doolittle's Restaurant Dominica YachtServices Dometic C/W 37
E-mail: [email protected] Brian Tel:(246)241-3035 negotiable. BYC,Barbados. Yamaha 8hpOB.US$7,000 England. Suitofsails. CONTESSA 26’1970 [email protected] www.aviationcms.com E-mail: props w/over60speedprops. Bravo 1drives.40MPHcruise hauled byMercurydealer, 502 marineenginesover- shower(s), VaccuFlush,Mercury leather incabin,galley, Grenada. Gen-Set,A/C,white speedboat isavailablein POWERBOAT 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN E-mail [email protected] www.catana431forsale.com rior upholsteryInformation: line, sailcovers,interior/exte- including newsails,trampo- many recentupgrades version, beautifulyacht, 2002 CATANA431 E-mail: [email protected] Will tradeforrealestate. wind generator,electronics. complete w/solarpanels, cockpit, cruisingready, ENDEAVOUR 40 [email protected] More infoandpicturesE-mail: Grenada. US$19,500OBO. extras, readytogo.Lying draft cruiserwithlotsof board. Cute,sturdy,shallow BRISTOL 321977 Offers wanted ADVERTISERS INDEX This luxury CLASSIFIEDS Owners Owners center- Built in Builtin Center
hotmail.com E-mail: US$60,000 Tel:(784)528-7273 excellent condition 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER [email protected] Lying CarriacouE-mail: offers considered. For quicksale,reasonable to shore.AskingUS$30,000. aboard sailorsmademove now! Fullyfitted-out.Live 1981 IRWIN37'KETCH E-mail: [email protected] Yamaha. Tel:(784)533-1996 27’ CUDDYCABIN200HP Telfor BedeauTel:(473)442-6200 trees; westernsectionwooded. tion cultivatedwithvariousfruit from Soubisebeach.Easternsec- from Grenvillebyroadand1/2mile Soubise, St.Andrews,11/2miles per sq/ft.LocatedatTheVillain ft (3acres,1rood,19poles).US$1 GRENADA E-mail: [email protected] Fenced lot.$212,000USD,OBO Bed, 1Bath,8027Sq/ft. Friendship Bay,8yrs.old,2 BEQUIA-HOUSE, PROPERTY FORSALE YOUR CLASSIFIED withCaterpillardiesels, IS ON-LINE! rodney_gooding@ Approx.area150,000sq/ oe ot Tiia MP 6 MP 9 7 Trinidad MP Aruba MP St.Lucia Tortola Sant's 28 SVG 41 Rodney BayMarina/IGY 32 Grenada Renaissance Marina Grenada Power Boats 38 Porthole Restaurant Perkins Engines C/W Tortola C/W MP Off ShoreRiskManagement 26 23 Neil PrydeSails DominicanRep Grenada 36 Nauti Solutions MP Nature Conservancy MP 36 Multihull Company Azores Colombia PuertoRico Mid AtlanticYachtServices St.Lucia McIntyre Bros.Ltd Marina Zar-Par Trinidad St.Lucia Marina SantaMarta Marina Pescaderia Marigot GourmetPizza Marigot Casino Marc OneMarine e akPit CW 17 MP Grenada C/W MP SpotlessStainless USA Slipway Restaurant Sea HawkPaints
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Peter BelmarTel:(305)386-2997 Sandy Island.Forsaleorlease. Beach, L’EsterreBay,acrossfrom for boat/car.LocatedonParadise level. Gatedandfenced,garage kitchens, beachshwronlower home, 2bdrm,1-1/2baths, sq/ft lot.Three-levelfullyfurnished your door.Beachhouseon7,216 CARRIACOU Tel: (784)495-5014/528-7273 US$$300,000/EC$801,000 kets, restaurants,etc. everything! beaches,mar- tures, walkingdistanceto ment greatforbusinessven- harbor. Abovegroundbase- on 2ndfloor,greatviewof suite bathroomandporch Large MasterSuitewithen- 3 Bdrmhouse, BEQUIA -PORTELIZABETH www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern and multi-acretracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, islandpace.com 458-3544 Email:emmett@ Island PaceRealty.Tel:(784) land, buildings,equipment. ager for31yrs.Complete taurant. Sameowner-man- Bequia’s mostpopularres- Waterfront location, BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA com www.ansebesson.shutterfly. [email protected] access. US$7millionE-mail: facing St.Vincent.Beach below VieuxFortLighthouse vate use.13.99acres.Located available forhotel/resorts/pri- VIEUX FORT,ST.LUCIA. Tel: (758)454-6536 Anchor in front of Anchor infrontof Trinidad MP Lots Land Land C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to45 email: [email protected] term rates.Tel:(784)4951177 minimum, excellentlong- Internet, cableTV.2weeks stunning view,coolbreeze. Big verandahandpatio, or 1bedstudioapartment. Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA E-mail [email protected] woodwork.com Tel:(784)431-9500 for yachtorhomewww.bequia- BEQUIA -CLIFF’SFINEWOODWORKING com/specials.htm at http://doylecaribbean. EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIALDEALS SAILS ANDCANVAS spiceisle.com E-mail: starwindsailing@ Mosden, Tel:(473)407-1147 Comes withallcontrols. Yamaha 90hp4stroke.2013, parts asapackage. Diesels withlotsofspare 2 X3126CATERPILLAR420HP [email protected] with controlpanel.E-mail: YANMAR 54HP, [email protected] ing onsizeandlocation.E-mail from US$5to$10sq/ftdepend- 0.9 acresto9,000sq.ft.Prices water access,plotsavailable. Court Bay.Excellentviews, GRENADA www.bequialandforsale.com views, largelotsfromUS$5/sq.ft. BEQUIA -MT.PLEASANT www.ecobayguesthouse.com Chester (784)455-0700 Tel: Frank(784)430-1010or US$110/nightly. Jacuzzi, WiFi,A/C.Sleeps6. Luxury 3bdrmhousew/ ST.VINCENT -ARNOSVALE MISC. FORSALE aie rnd 38 MP 26 47 Grenada MP Venezuela C/W Trinidad YES Martinique MP Trinidad Yacht SteeringCommittee Xtreme FuelTreatment Xanadu Marine MP Grenada19/MP MP X Marine 15 WIND Martinique SVG 22 West PalmHotel Guadeloupe Venezuela Venezuelean MarineSupply MP Grenada Velocity WaterServices PuertoRico 13 Turbulence Sails Triskell CupRegatta 41 Tortugal Guatemala MP 11 Tikal Arts&Crafts St.Croix St.Thomas Technick Grenada Sunbay Marina St. ThomasYachtSales St.Lucia St. LuciaYachtClubregatta MP St. CroixRegatta MP SERVICES RENTALS - East side Clarkes -EastsideClarkes low hours low hours Great Great
OCTOBER 2013 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47
Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago