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Contents

List of Maps vi

Introduction 1

The Best of European Cruising 5 1 Our Favorite Mainstream Ships ...... 5 5 Best Cruises for Pure Relaxation . . . . .7 2 Best Luxury Cruises ...... 5 6 Best Cuisine ...... 8 3 The Most Romantic Cruises ...... 6 7 Best Ports ...... 9 4 Best Cruises for Families with Kids . . .7

Part 1: Planning, Booking & Preparing for Your Cruise

1 Choosing Your Ideal Cruise 11

1 The European Cruise Season ...... 11 6 Cruises for Honeymooners & 2 European Cruise Itineraries ...... 12 Anniversary Couples ...... 20 3 Choosing Your Ship ...... 14 Getting Married On Board or in Port ...... 21 Onboard Medical Care ...... 16 7 Cruises for Gays & Lesbians ...... 21 4 Cruises for Families ...... 17 8 Cruises for People with Health Family Cruising Tips ...... 18 Issues & Disabilities ...... 22 5 Cruises for Solo Travelers ...... 19

2 Booking Your Cruise & Getting the Best Price 24 1 Europe: The Hottest Place 7 Choosing Your Cabin ...... 32 on Earth ...... 24 Smoking at Sea . . . or Not ...... 33 2 The Prices in This Guide ...... 25 8 Booking Your Air Travel ...... 35 3 COPYRIGHTEDThe Cost: What’s Included & 9 MATERIALPrebooking Your Dinner Table & What’s Not ...... 25 Arranging Special Diets ...... 35 4 Money-Saving Strategies ...... 26 10 Booking Pre- & Post-Cruise Average Cost of Onboard Extras . . . .26 Hotel Stays ...... 36 5 Agents & the Web: Finding 11 Cancellations & Insurance ...... 36 the Best Deals ...... 28 12 Putting Down a Deposit & Be Savvy & Beware of Scams ...... 29 Reviewing Tickets ...... 39 6 Recommended Agencies & Websites ...... 30 02 185629 ftoc.qxp 3/24/08 2:05 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

3 Things to Know Before You Go 40

1 Passports & Visas ...... 40 5 Sundry Shipboard Services & 2 Money Matters ...... 41 Facilities ...... 47 3 Keeping in Touch While at Sea . . . . .44 6 Tipping, Customs & Other End-of-Cruise Concerns ...... 49 4 Packing ...... 45

4 The Cruise Experience 52

1 Airport Rigamarole, Flight Delays 4 Keeping Fit: Gyms, Spas & Sports . . .56 & Lost Luggage ...... 52 5 Programs for Kids & Teens ...... 57 2 Checking In, Boarding & 6 Onboard Dining Options ...... 58 Settling into Your Cabin ...... 53 7 Shopping Opportunities 3 A Typical Day at Sea: on Ship & Shore ...... 60 Onboard Activities ...... 54

Part 2: The Cruise Lines & Their Ships

5 The Ratings & How to Read Them 62

1 Cruise Line Categories ...... 62 3 Evaluating & Comparing 2 Reading the Reviews & Ratings . . . .62 the Listed Cruise Prices ...... 76 4 Itineraries & Cruising Season ...... 76

6 The Mainstream Lines 77 1 Azamara Cruises ...... 78 6 MSC Cruises ...... 146 2 Carnival Cruise Lines ...... 86 7 Norwegian Cruise Line ...... 157 Preview: Carnival Splendor ...... 94 8 Oceania Cruises ...... 164 3 Celebrity Cruises ...... 97 9 ...... 171 4 ...... 109 10 Royal Caribbean International . . . . .184 5 ...... 129 11 Mini-Review: Cruises ...... 201

7 The Ultraluxury Lines 203

1 Crystal Cruises ...... 204 5 Seabourn Cruise Line ...... 235 2 Cunard ...... 214 Preview: Seabourn Odyssey ...... 240 3 Mini-Review: Peter Deilmann 6 SeaDream Yacht Club ...... 243 Cruises ...... 226 7 Silversea Cruises ...... 250 4 Regent Seven Seas Cruises ...... 227 02 185629 ftoc.qxp 3/24/08 2:05 PM Page v

CONTENTS v

8 Small Ships, Sailing Ships & Adventure Cruises 259

1 Mini-Review: easyCruise ...... 260 3 Lindblad Expeditions ...... 270 2 Hurtigruten (formerly Norwegian 4 Mini-Review: Sea Cloud Cruises . . .275 Coastal Voyage) ...... 262 5 Star Clippers ...... 276 Hurtigruten’s Classic Fleet: 6 ...... 286 A Retro Coastal Adventure ...... 265

9 River & Canal Cruises 296

Part 3: Ports of Call

10 The Port Experience: An Introduction 301

1 Debarkation in Port ...... 301 3 Touring the Ports on Your Own . . . .304 Currency Conversion Chart ...... 302 Calling Europe from Abroad ...... 305 2 Shore Excursions ...... 303

11 Mediterranean Ports of Call 306

1 Athens, Greece ...... 306 12 Istanbul, Turkey ...... 347 2 Barcelona, Spain ...... 312 13 Kusadasi & Ephesus, Turkey ...... 350 3 Bodrum, Turkey ...... 316 14 Lisbon, Portugal ...... 352 4 Cádiz, Spain ...... 318 15 Málaga, Spain ...... 355 5 Corfu, Greece ...... 320 16 Marseille, France ...... 357 6 Dubrovnik, Croatia ...... 322 17 Naples, Italy ...... 359 7 Florence, Pisa & the Port 18 Palermo, Sicily ...... 363 of Livorno, Italy ...... 324 19 Palma de Majorca, Spain ...... 365 8 The French Riviera ...... 331 20 Rome, Italy ...... 367 9 Genoa, Italy ...... 337 21 Sorrento, Italy ...... 371 10 Gibraltar ...... 340 22 Valletta, Malta ...... 373 11 The Greek Isles: Mykonos, 23 Venice, Italy ...... 375 Rhodes & Santorini ...... 342 02 185629 ftoc.qxp 3/24/08 2:05 PM Page vi

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12 Ports of Call in Northern Europe & the British Isles 381

1 Amsterdam, Netherlands ...... 381 7 Oslo, Norway ...... 412 2 Berlin & the Ports of Hamburg, 8 Paris & the Port of Le Havre, Rostock & Warnemünde, France ...... 415 Germany ...... 387 A (Very) Quick Guide to the A (Very) Quick Guide to the Landmarks of Paris ...... 418 Landmarks of Berlin ...... 390 9 St. Petersburg, Russia ...... 421 3 Copenhagen, Denmark ...... 392 Important Visa Information ...... 422 4 Helsinki, Finland ...... 396 10 Stockholm, Sweden ...... 424 5 London, England ...... 399 11 Tallinn, Estonia ...... 427 6 The Norwegian Fjords ...... 405

Index 430

List of Maps

Europe 2 Palermo 364 Athens 308 Rome 369 Barcelona 313 Sorrento 372 Corfu 321 Valletta 374 Dubrovnik 323 Venice 377 Central Florence 325 Amsterdam 382 Pisa 331 Berlin 389 Genoa 339 Copenhagen 395 The Greek Isles & Turkey’s Central Helsinki 397 Aegean Coast 343 London 400 Rhodes Town 345 The Norwegian Fjords 407 Santorini 346 Oslo 413 Old Istanbul 349 Paris 417 Lisbon 353 St. Petersburg 423 Marseille 358 Stockholm 425 Naples 361 Tallinn 428