DECEMBER 2013

Japan’s number one English language magazine WRAPPING UP 2013 WEEKENDER’S HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE THE BEAST

BITES ADVENTURES BACK ON THE Legendary entertainer INLAND on his battles inside and outside SEA Island hopping around Ehime and Oita

ALSO: The News Stories of the Year, Our Report from the Motor Show, Movies, Events, and much more . . .

DECEMBER 2013 CONTENTS 6

HEADLINERS A look back at the events and people that made news this year

10 18 30

BOB SAPP TOKYO MOTOR SHOW EHIME/OITA The outsized MMA personality weighs in Looking into the near and distant future Culinary delights, spectacular views, on the state of the fighting world of vehicles to come vibrant culture and hot springs

12 24 Holiday Gift Guide 44 Movies An aquatics superstar in the making and Present suggestions for that special Adventures in orbit, a fairy tale goes black one to watch for Olympics to come someone and white, and Sofia Coppola’s latest 16 The Lexus 6 26 Akita Black 48 Agenda Words of wisdom from the driving seat A tour of the midnight beauties in a R&B legends Kool & The Gang, holiday with Stephen Huggins northern land parties, and a 400-year-old street market 22 Pearls of Wisdom 40 People, Parties, Places 50 Back in the Day Tips and techniques for selecting a International Parties for Malaysia, Arab A Christmastime lament from way back timeless treasure Day, and more in 1988 A WORD FROM THE EDITOR

a hit with the people on your list. And

DECEMBER 2013 while a car might be a bit too big to fit DECEMBER 2013 under the tree this year, our coverage of ’s number one English language magazine the Tokyo Motor Show and the gifts that WRAPPING UP 2013 the automotive industry has on offer just WEEKENDER’S HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE might have you dreaming of something other than sugarplums. THE Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group In the world of sport, the first Chairman Ray Pedersen BEAST personality we spoke with is Bob Sapp,

BITES ADVENTURES a polarizing MMA personality who was Executive Producer Asi Rinestine BACK ON THE more than willing to let us know about Legendary entertainer INLAND Bob Sapp on his what’s going on outside the fighting ring. Editor Alec Jordan battles inside and outside the ring SEA Next up was Kosuke Hagino, a young Art Director Liam Ramshaw Island hopping Illustrator Liam Akin around Ehime athlete who just may be the world’s next and Oita superstar. Media Director Kotaro Toda We begin this month’s travels around Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Ohad Elbaz Japan with a return to Akita where, as Masaya Okamoto the nights grow longer, the focus is on

ALSO: The News Stories of the Year, Our Report from the Tokyo Motor Show, Movies, Events, and much more . . . the color black and where it appears in Media Consultant Mary Rudow the culture and cuisine of this northern Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil he days have grown short land, in things as varied as the roofs of again, and we’re almost samurai manors and dark-hued salt. ready to welcome in another Society Bill Hersey T Then it’s south, to visit a region new year and celebrate with known as Japan’s Aegean Sea: the Seto Editorial Associates Vivian Morelli our families, wherever we’ve made Naikai. Known in English as the Inland Matthew Hernon them and wherever they may be. It’s Mace Bertumen Sea, it is home to a unique culture a time to reflect, look back, and share Sami Kawahara that thrives in a variety of picturesque gifts—some that you can wrap and landscapes. During our trip there, we others that you can’t quite put your Film Christopher O’Keeffe take in the sights and sensations of Oita finger on. and Ehime Prefectures, and the hot IT Manager Nick Adams This month, we have a look Development Manager Stephane Boudoux spring comforts of the city of Beppu. back at some of the stories, sporting Fondue Guru Paul Romelot And with that, we wish you a happy achievements, and movies that stood Finance & Admin Sakura Arimura holiday season. See you in 2014. DBA Iryna Sundutova out during the year, and take a glance at the news that may be shaping the nation in the year to come. It’s a time of giving, but some of us might be stumped when thinking of the proper present. With that in mind, EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 we’ve got some ideas that should be Editor

Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6666-4924 / (03) 6432-9229 (fax) [email protected]

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Published by Bulbous Cell Media Group www.bulbouscell.com

Fried Sushi by Liam Akin. To see more of Liam’s work check out www.friedsushi.net

A successful bid for the 2020 TOKYO 2020 After the jubilation comes the hard Olympics, world culture accolades, work of getting ready for the Games. One of Tokyo’s greatest strengths in and some worrying developments its bid was a strong economy and a solid infrastructure, and while recent at home and abroad are among the protests may put a limit on the size of the central Olympic stadium, you Weekender’s choices for the major can count on Tokyo to make sure that the trains will run on time and the 2020 Games will be a well-organized affair. Recent decisions by stories of 2013 the Ministry of Education to start English education at the third grade and to require English teachers to do some studying abroad are an indication that the government is interested in developing Japan’s THE NEIGHBORS AREN’T overall capacity for cosmopolitanism as well. GETTING ALONG Bad relations between Japan, A KENNEDY COMES , and South over TO TOWN island sovereignty and wartime Caroline Kennedy arrived in recriminations have been steadily Tokyo just three days before the brewing throughout the year. 50th anniversary of her father’s As of this printing, China has assassination, and she will bring declared a restricted flight zone that includes the disputed Senkaku a high profile to the office of US Islands, and Japanese and South Korean passenger planes are Ambassador to Japan. Given the currently testing China’s resolve by flying through the zone. While enthusiastic throng that met her before she boarded the horse-drawn Japan and South Korea can agree to defy China’s air-defense zone, carriage that took her to present her credentials to the Emperor, it they aren’t able to agree on much else. Conflicts over rights to the is clear that the Kennedy Mystique still has its power, even in Japan. Takeshima Islands and each side’s “historical perceptions” have Ambassador Kennedy is also the first woman to hold the position, scuttled any current possibility of a summit between the nations. and is being looked at as a role model for Japanese women as well. A mutual love of one another’s popular culture continues to be a However, her diplomatic skills will be quickly put to the test by bright spot in this turmoil. international tensions that show no signs of relaxing.

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com 2013 ROUND UP | NEWS | 7

THE ABENOMICS ENGINE Depreciation of the yen, consumption tax increases, and a heavy diet of infrastructure spending have given a long-sluggish Japanese economy COMING UP a shot in the arm and sparked worldwide attention. In the short term, the stock market has jumped, an already low unemployment rate has dipped further, and there is a general feeling of confidence in the Japanese economy. However, longer term issues, including an ever-aging population and a massive public debt load, have not gone anywhere and still threaten to chip IN 2014 away at the successes of Prime Minister Abe’s economic turnaround. Our predictions for the stories that will be

MIYAZAKI STEPS OUT OF THE making the news next year DIRECTOR’S CHAIR; BALENTIEN BREAKS THE HOME RUN RECORD WILL WOMEN GET THEIR DUE? The beloved filmmaker Hayao PM Abe promoted gender equality as Miyazaki has delighted audiences in a pillar of his administration, and has Japan and overseas for decades, and just named Makiko Yamada as a prime news of his exit from directing was ministerial aide—the first woman to hold met with disappointment. While not such an office. A good step, but there is stepping away from the business entirely—the director has already still some way to go—Japan ranked 105th begun work on an ambitious manga project—his decision will leave a out of 136 nations in the World Economic Forum’s recent Global considerable gap for the next generation of anime directors to fill. Gender Gap Report. Breaking a Nippon Professional Baseball record that stood for 49 years, Wladimir Balentien’s 60 home runs stands as a sports milestone among CASINOS IN JAPAN many achievements this year (see page 13). Sadaharu Oh’s record In a country that loves gambling as much of 55 home runs seemed unreachable, partially because the three as Japan does, the casino business seems batters who did recently approach it—all of whom were foreigners— like a sure bet. Lawmakers will be putting found their path to the record blocked by pitchers all too ready to this bill forward at the beginning of the intentionally walk them. It was a good sign to see so much support for month, and Parliament will deliberate the Curaçaoan slugger coming from Japanese fans. on it during the next year. We’d put our money on this bill’s success in 2014.

CULTURAL TREASURE CHEST SOFTBANK AND RAKUTEN In June, UNESCO formally added CEOS DUKE IT OUT the iconic peak of Mt. Fuji to its list The second and third richest men in of World Heritage sites. This month Japan—Masayoshi Son (SoftBank) and washoku, or traditional Japanese Hiroshi Mikitani (Rakuten), respectively— cuisine, is expected to be listed as an both have a reputation for aggressive Intangible Cultural Heritage, one of business practices and direct talk. Yahoo! only a few food cultures that have been awarded this honor. But this Japan’s (SoftBank is the largest shareholder) recent decision to recognition comes with its drawbacks. More people coming to visit the eliminate vendor storefront fees is a blow to Rakuten, and it could Mt. Fuji area will certainly bring increased revenues from tourism, but be just the beginning of a battle between the two business titans. there are already worries that a rise in visitors will have a negative effect on the surrounding environment. And while developing news of THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM food mislabeling throughout the country should not affect UNESCO’s In truth, this could be one of the biggest washoku decision, it does add a whiff of irony to the affair. stories of 2013, and was always brewing in the background. From Abe’s admission KEEPING SECRETS that international assistance was needed at Japan’s Secrecy Act was approved Fukushima to the delicate fuel rod removal by the lower house of Parliament, process that is currently under way, this has and is expected to pass the upper been—and will be—one of the most important stories to follow in house in December. It has evoked the year to come: but you’ll have to read between the lines. concern from the press and opposing politicians due to its vague language LINE APP KEEPS GROWING and harsh penalties for government Last month the messaging service hit 300 members who reveal confidential information—and for journalists million users, and it shows no signs of who attempt to obtain that information. Put forth at the same time as a stopping. Born as a means for employees bill that will create a Japanese National Security Council, the national of an online game company to stay in secrets law is part of a larger set of policies that Abe hopes to use to touch with each other after the Tōhoku strengthen Japan’s global security clout. Though these bills may help Earthquake, Line could eventually the nation stand more firmly on the world stage, the Secrecy Act’s challenge in Japan if its boom continues. overly general (and easily changeable) definition of what “confidential” means is a worrying step against freedom of the press.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 We cordially invite you to a tasting of the world’s finest sakes.

The largest tasting event of its kind, the London-based International Wine Challenge has been judging sake since 2007. On Wednesday, December 11, you can delight your palate with limited tastings of IWC’s top picks for 2013 and a variety of premium sakes. To accompany this elite sake selection, an assortment of light refreshments will be served.

* the event is limited to 50 people, so don’t miss this rare opportunity. To reserve your place, please contact

Ms. Yoshida at [email protected] with your name, contact information, and the number of people in your party. Tickets for the event are ¥5,000

Time: Wednesday, December 11. 19:00–21:00

Location: Café Serre, 104-0045 Tōkyō-to, Chuō-ku, Tsukiji 1-13-1, ADK Shōchiku Square 2F.

Sponsored By: by Matthew Hernon

ou’d have thought that a fighter who’d barely won a bout in recent years would be struggling to get work. You certainly wouldn’t expect that person to be in demand, but Bob Sapp is not Y your typical fighter. The 6’5”, former American footballer is pure box office; an entertainer who still attracts huge crowds despite his poor recent record. “It’s crazy,” he says. “Even though my results have been so bad, I’ve been getting more work than ever. I must be the only fighter than can go 0 for 15 and still sell out every venue. People write and ask, ‘why do fans still come and see you? Why do promoters still hire you?’ I say, ‘ask them.’ It’s easy to hire someone when they are winning; it’s much more difficult after so many losses.” Sapp the person is not really any different to the celebrity you see on TV. Bold, brash, funny and extremely forthright, he’s a larger-than-life character who splits opinion like no other fighter. For some he is simply a comic figure who doesn’t take the sport seriously. Others, however, believe he is a breath of fresh air in an industry that often takes itself too seriously. “People want to see an event,” Sapp tells us. “They don’t want to see 9–10 hours of fights between people they don’t know. They can see that on YouTube or on the streets. You want to get to know someone, get the entertainment value from it. That’s what combat sport is about. It’s not about people who show up and say nothing.” The man nicknamed “The Beast” could never be accused of that, making sure he’s heard wherever he goes. During the hour-or-so we spent together at the Hotel he spoke candidly about his own career, making no attempt to hide the fact that he sees himself as “an entertainer first, fighter second.” He’s determined not to fall in to the same trap as many fighters, who he believes risk life and limb for little reward. “Everyone takes different paths in life,” says the 40 year old. “For me it had to be financial stability first; then I could do what I wanted to do. The first thing for these guys is ego. They are happy being such great fighters. Cauliflower ears, messed up faces and for what? One more victory, another notch on your belt; well, you see where that gets you. I’m in the “accept” business, they are in the “fighting” business. If that is what they want to do then keep on fighting.” Sapp’s prepared to do what he is told as long as the money keeps rolling in, even if it leaves him with little time to properly prepare for matches. Between long-haul flights to various countries around the world, he is busy with commercials, TV appearances and numerous pachinko events. This year he has also been promoting the release of his autobiography, The Beast Bites Back, where he talks about how he has had to BOB SAPP | FEATURE | 11

I am famous in America for being famous in Japan. People see me in the States and I think they might recognize me from the Longest Yard or something, but they’ll say that’s Bob Sapp, he’s huge in Japan. come to the aid of many fighters who couldn’t me from the Longest Yard or something, he’s on his show looking up Wikipedia on his pay their bills. but they’ll say that’s Bob Sapp, he’s huge in iPad. Come on, the guy’s an idiot! He’s going He feels that people like Gary Goodridge, Japan.” around saying Bob’s throwing fights, then he who suffered brain damage in the ring, have During those early years here, Sapp’s has on his show. Well in Mike’s been let down by major fighting corporations face was everywhere. A regular on TV last fight he sat down in the ring. So why is and that a large number of fighters are being shows and advertisements, his accessories, this guy so excited to have him on his program underpaid. According to a report on the from little figures to vibrators, proved when he has allegedly done the same thing as MMA Manifesto website, the UFC’s top ten incredibly popular. Inside the ring things me, making much more money doing it.” earners this year had all made well in excess were also going well. He won 10 of his At the height of his success there was of $500,000 by the end of October 2013. Sapp first 14 fights and had a similar talk of a fight between Sapp and Tyson, argues that the majority are getting nowhere record in MMA. His most memorable though because of the latter’s status as a near that amount. victories came against four-time K1 World convicted felon he couldn’t get a visa in “If people peeked behind the scenes they Champion, , whom he Japan and the idea was eventually scrapped. would be shocked,” he says. “The injuries, defeated twice. It was disappointing for Sapp, who felt he lack of medical attention, world-class fighters Unfortunately, those bouts are now a felt he could’ve beaten him then, claiming not knowing when their next pay packet is distant memory. He hasn’t won an MMA that Tyson was “quite nervous.” A fight of coming. This is the reality! These guys at UFC fight for more than three years, while his that magnitude would have attracted huge are supposed to be earning big bucks, yet you victory over Tofan Pirani in 2012 was his viewing figures; possibly even bettering ask them and most are on under $30,000 a first in kickboxing for seven years. So what Sapp vs. Akebono, which was watched by an year, then you have to pay the manager, the has happened to the man who beat Hoost estimated 54 million. trainer. How are you going to make any proper twice and almost defeated legendary figure He gets nothing like those numbers cash to do anything? Many are sharing a room Antonio Rodrigo Nogueira? these days, yet remains one of the most with their corner man and flying economy. According to his critics, he popular and newsworthy fighters on the You think Manny Pacquiao is doing that?” has simply stopped trying. James circuit. His alleged spat on Twitter with Sapp learned the hard way that nothing Thompson, who last year beat Sapp Tyson Fury in January, where the can be taken for granted in sport. His inside the first round, wrote a blog British heavyweight boxer appeared American football career was over almost as entitled “When a fighter gives to call out the MMA star, made soon as it started. Released by the Chicago up: A profile on Bob Sapp.” headlines. Sapp revealed to us Bears not long after being drafted, he was then Announcer Ariel Helwani has that it was a 14-year-old boy suspended by his next team, the Minnesota been even more vociferous who was writing under his Vikings. With debt collectors on his back in his condemnation of “The name and that he was “rolling and his football career over, Sapp admitted Beast,” labeling him as a on the floor laughing” when to being in a “depressive state.” He had a “mockery of the sport.” he read the story on the brief stint in World Championship Wrestling The former American Bleacher Report. (WCW), but then they soon went bankrupt. footballer, however, Serious fighting fans At the turn of the century his luck started believes both men are may get annoyed seeing to change. While working odd jobs such as just trying to make him constantly in the news moving dead bodies to hospitals, Sapp got an names for themselves. while better prepared, offer to fight former Chicago Bear William “You’ve got more skillful athletes get “The Refrigerator” Perry in a tough-man Thompson saying I’m little attention, yet the fact competition. K1 founder Kazuyoshi Isshii was addicted to fame, he is is sponsors see something in attendance that night and evidently liked only saying these things because in him and that’s why he what he saw, inviting Sapp to fight in Japan. he wants to be famous. He’s hoping continues to get top billing. “That changed my life more than I to make it difficult for people Until that changes, the man could’ve imagined,” Sapp says. “This is such because it’s been so hard for him. known as “The Beast” will a creative country that has allowed me to do He’s hardly made any money so carry on, knowing that while all these crazy things. I am famous in America you shouldn’t get any as well. the ridicule and criticism gets for being famous in Japan. People see me in As for Helwani, he’s supposed louder, his bank account gets the States and I think they might recognize to be UFC’s marketing guy, yet bigger. Meet the young Japanese athlete who is taking the swimming world by storm

by Matthew Hernon t has been quite a year for Kosuke Hagino. The teenage swimming sensation made history in April becoming the first swimmer to win five I titles at Japan’s National Championships and then followed that up by claiming two silver medals at the FINA World Swimming Championships. An impressive feat for an 18-year-old, yet upon meeting the young man at his training center in Toyo University, it soon became apparent that he wasn’t satisfied with his season. “I had specific targets at the start of the year and unfortunately I couldn’t quite achieve what I set out to do,” he tells Weekender. “It was a fantastic experience performing at such a high-caliber international event against the best in this country, Hagino managed to completely dominate the swimmers in the world and I was delighted to get two event, breaking the national and Asian record in the men’s silver medals. Ultimately though, I left there feeling a little 400m individual medley, before powering to victory in the 200m disappointed.” and 400m freestyle, the 200m individual medley and the 100m Like many Japanese athletes Hagino comes across as both . He was soon touted as the sport’s next superstar, modest and mild-mannered, yet behind the humility there is someone who could follow in the footsteps of legendary figures a burning desire to become one of the greatest swimmers of such as Phelps and Lochte. It is a heavy burden to place on all time. While that may sound overly ambitious, anyone who someone so young, but he doesn’t seem fazed by it at all. has seen him race over the past couple of years knows that he “I’m overjoyed when I hear people comparing me to such is someone with the potential to go right to the top. phenomenal swimmers,” he tells us. “I don’t think it adds any His big international breakthrough came at last year’s pressure. At the end of the day, I have grown up dreaming of Olympics in London. A high school student at the time, he being like these guys, hoping to emulate them. I remember finished behind America’s and Brazilian Thiago the first time I saw Phelps at the World Championships in Pereira to claim a bronze medal in the 400m individual . Watching him compete in so many races, I thought it medley, edging out in the process. was amazing. I realized that is what I wanted to do. He has kicked on even further this year with some Of course there are times when it is really tough. Doing double memorable performances, most notably in the Japan National sessions, swimming 7000m each time, it can be exhausting. On Championships. In what is seen as a golden era for swimming top of that there are my studies (he is enrolled on an English

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com 2013 ROUND UP | SPORT | 13 2013 SPORTS HIGHLIGHTS From Tanaka’s near perfect pitching to Uchimura’s grace on the rings, it has been a great twelve months for Japanese sport. Here is our look at some of the pivotal moments that have defined 2013

To be at a major championships Football- Japan is the first team to qualify for the 2014 World Cup. with one of my heroes, Kosuke Kitajima, (Man Utd) and (CSKA Moscow) win domestic titles in Europe. J-League title race between F. was a real buzz for me. At last year’s Marinos and Sanfrecce goes to the wire again.

Olympics he told me to soak in the Baseball- A great year for Japanese pitchers. Masahiro Tanaka, atmosphere, take it easy and savor who entered the record books for the most consecutive games won by a pitcher (30), helps the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles to every moment. I really appreciated their first ever Japan Series title, while Koji Uehara throws the final pitch in the World Series for the victorious Boston Red Sox. getting advice from one of the true legends of the sport. Gymnastics- Four golds for Japan at the World Championships. Unsurprisingly ‘Superman’ Kohei Uchimura claims two of them in the all-around event and on the parallel bars, Kohei Kameyama Communication course at Toyo University), but I really love wins on the pommel horse, while teenage sensation Kenzo Shirai doing both so I guess that makes things a bit easier.” becomes the youngest ever winner on the floor. At this Summer’s World Championships in Barcelona Hagino took part in seven events: a total of 17 races in all. Swimming- 19yr old comes home first in the 400m By the end of the week the demanding schedule had clearly individual medley at the World Championships. There are also taken its toll. In the 400m medley, a race in which he was medals for Kosuke Hagino (2 silvers), Aya Terakawa (2 bronze the red-hot favorite to win, he finished just fifth with the medals) and the 4x100m medley relay team (bronze). Gold medal going to his teammate, 19-year-old Daiya Seto. Whilst he clearly wasn’t satisfied with his own showing, he Tennis- Kimiko Date-Krumm becomes the oldest ever player to was happy to see a fellow countryman take the top prize. reach the 3rd round of Wimbledon. It’s been an up-and-down “I think we are really blessed with top class swimmers year for Kei Nishikori, who reaches a career best 4th Round at the in this country right now which is great for the future,” French Open, but goes out in the 1st Round at Flushing Meadow. he says. “I think there is a real camaraderie between us. I have been involved in a lot of events with Daiya (Seto), which is always a lot of fun and I really enjoy competing against (Ryosuke) Irie. Also to be at a major championships with one of my heroes, Kosuke Kitajima, was a real buzz for me. At last year’s Olympics he told me to soak in the atmosphere, take it easy and savor every moment. I really appreciated getting advice from one of the true legends of the sport.” Kitajima is seen as Japan’s greatest ever swimmer having won four gold medals between 2004 and 2008, and if there is anyone in the Japan team capable of surpassing that record you feel Hagino could be the man. He may have fallen a little short in Barcelona this year, but the experience will have only made him stronger. He will expect to be in much better condition for the 2016 Olympics in Rio, and should be reaching his peak by the time the Games arrive here in Tokyo. No doubt he has already envisaged that moment when he stands on the podium in front of a jubilant home crowd: if he can keep continuing to progress the way he is, that dream has every chance of becoming a reality.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013

IN THE DRIVING SEAT WITH STEPHEN HUGGINS Part 3 of The Lexus 6 Series

laying defensive back in American the Japanese market, Huggins knows more than football can teach you a lot about his fair share about effort. And while he first running a successful business in Japan. came to Japan on a quick decision to attend This doesn’t mean that you’re likely to a good friend’s wedding nearly 20 years ago, Psee someone get tackled in a boardroom, even one of the secrets to his success is a patience if the shachō has had a lot to drink. As Stephen that has allowed his businesses to weather Huggins, Director of the TSI International Group financial downturns like the dotcom bust and explained, the common thread between these the Lehman shock. two things is effort, and it can go a long way in Born in the UK, Huggins grew up in Ontario, helping you establish yourself in the country: Canada. His wife is Australian, and they have “This is a market that rewards effort. In the West, an eleven-year-old daughter. He bought his first we reward winners: it’s kind of the same thing, Lexus, an RX450h, in 2009, and as of this month, but people here, they want to see you making the the family has one of the same models in Canada, effort. You can’t take your foot off the gas.” , and Japan. As the first person to introduce the concept Before the Lexus, he had driven a Toyota for of land banking (buying parcels of real estate six years, and from an operations perspective, with plans to later sell or develop on them) to he was impressed by the company’s famous

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PART III | THE LEXUS 6 | 17

And the people who you by using the connection of the were partying are now Bluetooth to your phone.” probably back home In comparing it to other cars complaining about in its class, his feeling about the how hard Japan was Lexus was clear: “I really don’t think while the people who there’s much work hard usually comparison. I like the sleekness, I get rewarded in some like the style, I like the smooth lines way. and the curves on it. I think it’s the standard for manufacturing process: “We visited the the SUV; it has Toyota factory in Aichi and it was an a subtle charm, amazing experience; it fit with the way it’s quiet, but the Toyota was described to me when I first quality’s fantastic and I think anybody who quite provide: “So we go to Hokkaido, we go came to Japan. It’s ten years ahead of drives it will see it exactly the same way.” to , we go to Nagano, and the car we any automaker globally. Just to watch the As he explained, this smooth ride holds have now—it wasn’t a Toyota or Lexus, so factory floor—they’ve got a clock and it’s up even when conditions outside are rough, saying the name isn’t fair—my wife wouldn’t always ticking. It shows 97% efficiency or as they were on a drive from Toronto to a be happy with me driving it. With the Lexus, 98% efficiency, but it never got to 100%. ski resort in the neighboring province of we’ll feel safe going into the mountains in the For motivation purposes and as a method Quebec: “we were driving to Mt. Tremblant wintertime for skiing.” of controlling quality, my CFO loved it.” . . . there was a snowstorm, there were Even for day-to-day activities, the So when he was ready to upgrade, he whiteouts, and we saw so many cars in the RX450h has been something that the entire knew that he wanted a Lexus and he was ditch. I knew my wife was worried, so I family likes to use, “whether it’s my daughter happy with the car from the start: “The said, ‘Listen, we’re in a state of the art car; who enjoys the entertainment system from

Photos by Shugo Takemi service for the car was fantastic, of course, we’ve got nothing to worry about! If this the back seats or my wife who enjoys the and the performance has been great.” car goes off the road, there’s going to be comfort of the drive and the detailed control Huggins explains that low emissions of the more than us who have a problem!’ And panels. Also, the hatchback is convenient for hybrid engine were a big draw for him in sure enough, we plowed through and after, shopping. So it’s a real lifestyle element that making his choice, but what has impressed my wife was quite happy about the car. it has added for us.” him the most since his first 450h is the The Huggins family is looking forward When asked what Lexus meant to him, “enjoyable, safe ride: it’s really quiet and to taking their newest 450h out to Japanese Huggins referred back to the high standards smooth, and you can concentrate on your ski country, with the peace of mind that the of the brand: “Toyota is just an excellent business, or phone calls or what have car they had been driving before couldn’t standard. They used to say, ‘As GM goes, so does America,’ and I think that Toyota is 1 the company that’s out there globally that represents Japan the best, so driving the Lexus I feel like I’m getting a bit of what represents Japan best.” Given the hard work that has gone into his business success, his advice to newcomers to Japan was stern: “I think you’ve got to make your mind up about what you want to do when you first get here, and realize that the first seven or eight years of what you do 2 in Japan are going to be your legacy and your 3 reputation that you carry forward. So if you want to work hard, that’ll be your reputation; if you want to have fun and enjoy the night life, that’ll become your reputation too . . . When I talk to a lot of the foreigners here who are successful, it’s important what you do in those seven or eight years. And the people who were partying are now probably back 1 Huggins with his young daughter 2 Comfortable home complaining about how hard Japan 3 interiors are great for passengers and drivers alike The was while the people who work hard usually detailed control panels are a favorite feature. get rewarded in some way.”

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 TOP GEAR HOT RIDES FROM THIS YEAR’S TOKYO MOTOR SHOW

by Mithun Soni he 43rd Tokyo Motor Show kicked off this week. Held every two years, the automotive world descends T onto Tokyo to display the some of the past, much of the present, and their vision for the cars, or vehicles I should say, we might be driving in the years to come. This year’s Motor Show had a predominantly German/Japanese presence, with many of the Teutonic heavyweights—BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Audi, Porsche, and Volkswagen—making the long trip over. Japan, one of the world’s automotive powerhouses, has six manufacturers among the world’s top 15: Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Suzuki, Mazda and Mitsubishi. With the world watching, many companies have used this event as a platform to display their innovative designs and energy efficient technology, but it wouldn’t be the Tokyo Motor Show without some downright weird and wonderful models to gawp at!

The long-awaited Lexus RC coupe made its world debut at this year’s Tokyo Motor Show

NISSAN: BEAUTY AND THE BEAST

ith a seat that sits in the center position of the vehicle, the BladeGlider is so named because it W gives the driver the sensation of “gliding” over the road. The striking concept car is described as “an extreme version of how the car could look” by Nissan design chief Shiro Nakamura, which might mean that the production model will look nothing like it . . . At the other end of the spectrum, much attention was paid to the release of the 2015 Nissan GT-R Nismo. Probably the most rugged, brutish vehicle on display, there is nothing subtle about the Nismo. A boy racer’s dream on steroids, Nissan CEO Carlos Ghosn—who is quite revered in these parts—showed off this model. It’s the fastest GT-R to date, boasting a Nürburgring circuit lap time of 7 minutes, 8.679 seconds—10 seconds faster than the previous model. The “Zero Competition” tagline Nissan have given their new beast GREEN MACHINES is well fitting. n contrast to the gas-guzzling supercars we’ve become accustomed to seeing at past motor shows, there was a strong environmental focus I this year: most manufacturers had some form of hybrid or electric model on hand. It’s been 16 years since the official release of the much loved and revolutionary Prius, and Toyota are now planning on releasing 18 new hybrids by the end of 2015. This is just one example of the efforts that many car companies, especially the green-friendly Japanese manufacturers, are making to offer consumers alternative energy vehicles. Mazda had a global premiere of their new Mazda3 SKYACTIV-CNG Concept, which is a dual fuel vehicle that has tanks for both gasoline and compressed natural gas. Not to be completely outdone by their Japanese counterparts, the Germans also brought over their purely electrically powered BMW i3, and the plug-in hybrid BMW i8 sports car, both of which will be on the streets next year. Good luck finding one, though: the i8 is already sold out, and 10,000 orders are in for the i3.

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com TOKYO MOTOR SHOW | FEATURE | 19 TOP GEAR AN EMPATHIC ENGINE

ne of the most creative, futuristic concept vehicles on show was the O Toyota FV2. Looking like something straight out of Star Wars, this minimalist single-seat pod can be driven from a standing position and has no steering wheel. Don’t worry though; it handles corners in response to the driver’s shifting weight. Toyota says the vehicle also has technology to gauge the driver’s mood and suggest possible destinations, in addition to changing exterior colors. So, if you see a red one of these in the future that isn’t cornering very well, you should move out the way . . .

IN A CLASS OF ITS OWN

he star of the Frankfurt Motor Show earlier this year was Mercedes-Benz’s new Concept S-Class Coupe, and it was quite a T star attraction in Tokyo too. Taking the mantle from the CL as the brand’s new flagship coupe, the S-Class doesn’t disappoint. The interior sports a silk carpet and calfskin seats and as inspiration for this concept coupe’s killer lines, the German designer Jan Kaul “imagined the kind of car that might be driven in a James Bond movie.” It would certainly give Aston Martin a run for their money, with its long hooded nose, flowing profile and menacing grill. And for such a showstopper, this concept can really move: it’s hiding a 449-hp, 4.7-liter twin turbo V-8 under the hood.

A FERRARI DESIGNER HEADS TO THE FIELDS

or all you farming enthusiasts, there was the release of the Y-Concept YT01 Advanced Tractor, quite literally F the sexiest piece of farming equipment you’ll ever see. It was one of the standouts at Japanese designer Ken Okuyama’s booth, and he said the all-road, all-weather tractor “incorporates an advanced GPS satnav system that will eventually enable it to work autonomously, thus improving yields.” So unfortunately, that means that there’s not much chance of seeing Farmer Giles behind this wheel then. Okuyama, who designed the Ferrari Enzo, also brought the Kode9 sports car with him, which displayed his distinguished design capability. A real timeless piece of car design, looking like a classic sports car, but also balancing new concepts and looking a bit like something that drove out of Speed Racer.

A BIKE WITH A SPLIT PERSONALITY

otorcycle lovers also had plenty to enjoy, with Kawasaki offering the undisputed coolest concept cycle of them all: the Tron-style “J.” The M configuration of two narrow front wheels and a large rear wheel has been seen before (for example, in the Piaggio MP3 scooter), but this model has the heart of a Transformer. Comfort Mode allows the rider to sit up straight, with the wheels set apart widely and the frame tilted upward. Put it into Sport Mode and the wheels come together as the frame lowers to the ground. Handlebars are a thing of the past for this all-electric dream bike, as steering is done with levers connected to each front wheel. Unfortunately, dream about this one is all we’ll be able to do—Kawasaki have no plans to put this one on the road.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 20 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com

classic look, pearls fitthemold for all. classic look, teenager witheclecticstyle, oranolderwoman who enjoys a luster later on. oil, perfume,andperspiration caneat away at apearl, ruiningthe as nothingischipping away. Sincepearls are100%organic, body look good. Imperfections anduneven shapesareallright as long piece of paperinstead of adark cloth,againstwhich any pearl will Yonamine suggests examining thepearls againstawhite clothor size and shape, but never luster,” Umehara notes. To look at luster, important trait to look for. If you are on a budget, “you can give on find that perfect pearl. Luster, ortheshine of thepearl, isthemost basics soyou can go anywhere intheworld with confidence to for pearls like thereisfor diamonds,itisessential to know the or several pearls at atime—determine thequalityof thegem. how long the pearl grows intheshell,orifanoyster generates one coating the objectwith layers of nacre.Many factors—for example develops asthecreature protects itselffrom theirritation by takes approximately two years to complete. Thepearl grows and inside thetissue of anoyster shellto starttheprocess, which orAkoyaproduce aJapanese-cultured pearl, anirritant isplaced price of apearl. Pearls areproduced by living organisms. To commonaccessory.an otherwise reflects off aperson’sskin tone orclothing,addingoriginality to Pearls personalaccessory, arealsoavery asthepearl’s luster with when inneedof aneffortless transitionfrom day to night. party. Itisversatile andaneasy choicefor women to accessorize worn from thebeginningof theworkday to theendof adinner perfect pearl. through the timesandwhat detailsto lookfor when choosingthe Roppongi, to findhow this gem hasmanaged to stay relevant of Yonamine pearl shopintheheartof Pearls, a50-year-old General Manager Keiko Umehara andPresident LyndaYonamine list?Weor someoneonyour Christmasgiftto-do consulted with this year. How exactly doyou pick the perfect pearl for yourself it’s oneof ourcontenders intheholiday giftguide for women of allages, makingthepearl asafe, foolproof giftchoice;infact, magazines. Itisatrendthat never dies. are justtwo recent pieces to gracethepages offashion luxury 2013 pearl-lined gloves andChanel’sSpring2013$32,000bracelet find apearl-inspired pieceinthemix.Alexander McQueen’s Fall youopen up anywill be sure high fashion collectionlookbook, to D PEARLS OF WISDOM Whether it’sayoung girl receiving herfirst gemstone, a Since thereisnostandardized,international gradingsystem Luster, size, andshapetypically determine thequalityand An element that makes thepearl timelessisthat itcanbe The classicgemstone isalsotailormadefor girls andwomen and royalty. Ifyou fast forward 2,000years and iconic treasure that represented wealth, beauty, in theseasof Okinawa, thegemstone hasbeenan hunted for pearl-producingama free-divers oysters ating asfarbackthe1stcenturyinJapan, when real pearls are gritty. Youreal pearlsaregritty. pearls areverysmooth, can alsobitethepearl but theyrarely golarger than (lightly!) tofeelthe 10 mmsinceitisgrownin a smallershell.Anything you canfindis11.5mm, together. Fake Japanese cultured pearl graininess Rub them larger isnotreal. are dullsounding,real The largest pearls soundclear gently. Fakepearls Tap thepearls and glassy.

can alsobetintedingreenhuesfor example, butifdarkblacktheyare treated withcobalt.Treated color with huesofpinkandgrey.They should notfade,buttinted in natural colorsofwhite Japanese pearlscome color can. pearls arewarm, real pearlsare them. Fake very cold. Feel

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WWW.THEBODYSHOP.COM © 2013 Plc. of The Body Shop International INCHTWR020 trademark without ® Registered the no reproduction permission of the owners Absolutely Plc. The Body Shop International All rights reserved FOR THE MAJIME WORLD TRAVELER: TUMI ASTOR BERESFORD LARGE FLAP BRIEF For the man who is constantly on the go from FOR THE MAN WHO’S work in Tokyo to work across the world, this NEVER ON TIME: briefcase is perfect for those documents, TOKYO FLASH WATCH tablets, laptops, and other work-related items Keep your guy on time and in style with a to hold in style. Tokyo Flash watch. A Tokyo Design Week Price: ¥136,500 | Where: www.tumi.co.jp Award winner, this company has been developing innovative, creatively-de- signed watches for many years. Although the more exotic models aren’t always the easiest to read, they’re guaranteed FOR THE OTAKU WITH SWAG: conversation starters. GRAND THEFT AUTO 5 Price: Around ¥20,000 We won’t judge if your middle-aged Where: www.tokyoflash.com man still owns a PS3 or Xbox in full display at the house. In fact, we suggest you score extra points with the game that broke records in Japan after its release in October. Price: ¥6,354 Where: www.amazon.jp

Editor’s Choice

FOR THE CONNOISSEUR: YAMAZAKI WHISKY To celebrate the season properly from the classy man’s perspective, pick up a bottle of whisky from the Land of the Rising Sun. This single malt whisky, originating in , is a multi-layered beverage perfect for the whisky connoisseur.

FOR THE SOPHISTICATED Price: ¥7,350 WHISKY PALATE: Where: Kinokuniya ZWIESEL 1872 WHISKY TUMBLERS These handcrafted, carefully refined whisky glasses are perfect for the man who truly loves the full whisky tasting experience. Take in the complex aromas and observe the whisky as it swirls in these exquisite ZWIESEL Tumblers. FOR THE DAPPER DAN: Price: ¥9,450 for a set of 2 THE ART OF SHAVING TRAVEL KIT Where: www.zwiesel-kristallglas.jp To make sure that your man stays well-groomed while he’s on the go, give him this kit. With a pure badger brush, a Gillette Fusion razor, and travel- sized pumps of pre-shave oil, shaving cream and shaving balm, a clean close shave is never far away. Price: ¥17,500 | Where: www.theartofshaving.com FOR THE CLASSIC YET CONTEMPORARY: YONAMINE PEARLS Pearls are a versatile accessory that work with any age range for FOR THE LUXURY COFFEE DRINKER: women. They are timeless, and 2 CARAT CUP BY YUSUKE FUJINUMA can be passed through many Can’t afford that diamond ring or pearl generations. Read more on necklace? Yusuke Fujinuma has the perfect pearls in our Pearls of Wisdom. answer: the 2 Carat diamond ring, looking Price: Varies just like the real thing as she slides the mug Where: Yonamine Pearl Shop, handle on her ring finger. Roppongi Price: ¥3,675 Where: MoMA DESIGN STORE

Editor’s FOR THE BEAUTY WITH BRAINS: Choice EVERNOTE MOLESKINE NOTEBOOK Moleskines are one of the greatest note- books on the market. Add an Evernote feature to it? It’s a no-brainer, top-notch gift for a woman who loves organization. Take a picture of your sketch or notes with the Evernote App’s Camera and the pages are instantly digitized. Price: ¥3,150 Where: www.evernote.com/market

FOR THE FRESH-FACED, SKINCARE CONSCIOUS SK-II FACIAL TREATMENT ESSENCE This Japanese cosmetic company is one of the most successful skincare lines worldwide with its “miracle” ingredient originating from a sake brewery in Japan. Women have referred to their Facial Treat- FOR THE BRAND-NAME ADMIRER: ment Essence as miracle water. CELINE ALL SOFT BAG Price: ¥8,400 for 75mL Where: Seibu and Isetan The All-Soft Bag from the Fall 2013 Celine collection comes in 15 colors, a color for any woman’s taste or style. With calfskin on the outside and suede on the inside, it is safe in the winter rain and an appropri- ate bag for work or play.

Price: ¥252,000 Where: KCeline Store, Kita-aoyama

FOR THE CANDLE-LOVING ROMANTIC: KATE SPADE HOME COLLECTION Newly released in Kate Spade’s Home collection, these candles are suitable for the woman who loves to come home to a fragrant space. The four different designs and fragrances fit into any style of classic or modern day home. These new candles were released this month at the Kate Spade store in Omotesando. Price: ¥7,875 | Where: www.katespade.jp THE DARK CHARMS OF AKITA BLACK

alk through the historic center of Kakunodate, where the low branches of weeping cherry trees hang quietly over the pitch black fences of the W town’s old samurai manors. Dating from the late Edo Period, each of the remaining houses offers a unique glimpse into a long-gone era when the traditional arts flourished and the samurai had traded their swords for calligraphy brush- es and tea bowls. Explore the expansive grounds of the Aoyagi Manor, and admire the family’s private collection of samurai-era weapons and art. Stepping through the Ishiguro Manor’s main gate, past the spy hole–lined black fence, reveals the oldest and most austere of the town’s manors. Inside the wooded grove sur- rounding the Iwahashi Manor, admire a rare, 300-year-old oak tree and see how a typical middle-class samurai family lived. The Kawarada Manor gives visitors an opportunity to see a more dis- tinct regional style of architecture of the north, while the Japanese gardens of the Odano Manor are perfect for a contemplative stroll. At the Matsumoto Manor, lucky visitors may get to see the tradi- tional craft of itaya-zaiku—thin strips of maple being woven into fences—being carried out. Martial arts enthusiasts can visit the former Onozaki Manor, now an active dojo. The outer town, once home to merchants and craftsmen, re- tains its historic air as well, with many of the old merchant hous- es given a new life as shops and cafés. Rickshaws take visitors through the wooded streets, and a local history guide association offers tours to delve deeper into the town’s history and culture. Es- tablished in 1620, Kakunodate’s layout has changed little during its 390-plus years of history. It is a history the town celebrates every autumn with a two-day festival nearly as old as the town itself. ANGOMA MOCHI— A LAYERED TREAT For a unique northern take on Japan’s traditional sweet Kawatsura mochi rice cakes, visit the town of Hachirogata, just 40 minutes north of Akita city. lacquerware’s deep The town is known for its Angoma Mochi. Like many black sheen and mochi-based sweets, it starts with soft, chewy base of delicate gold relief pounded rice and is topped with a generous spread of designs transform sweet anko red bean paste. What sets it apart though is the thick top layer of deep everyday objects black ground sesame. What seems like a minor change into striking works to one of Japan’s most ubiquitous sweets results of art in a surprising change in flavor. In addition to giving the snack a little crunch, the bottles of salt. The result of this meticulous rich umami of the sesame process is a smooth, flavorful seasoning un- offsets and perfectly bal- like anything in the supermarket. Lacking ances out the sweet bean the metallic sharpness of mass-produced paste. To try it for yourself, salt, Oga Kuro Shio is perfect for sprinkling stop by Hatae-Kashiho, one over salads, fish, tempura, and a range of of Hachirogata’s most popu- other dishes. lar Angoma Mochi shops. YAMAKYU SHOYU— KAWATSURA SHIKKI— ARTISANAL SOY SAUCE A GLAZE DEEP AS NIGHT While Akita’s Kodama Brewing is best For roughly 800 years, the craftsmen of known for its range of quality sake, the Yuzawa, in the mountains of southern brewery got its start making batches of Akita, have been honing the skill of turning dark soy sauce. Since its beginnings in simple boxes and bowls into works of art 1879 Kodama has continued to produce its and beauty. One of the prefecture’s signa- signature Yamakyu Shoyu using traditional ture crafts, Kawatsura lacquerware’s deep methods and quality ingredients. While black sheen and delicate gold relief designs it seems like the simplest of ingredients, transforms everyday objects into striking like Oga Kobo’s black salt, Yamakyu Shoyu works of art. is made with such care and attention to Crafting a single piece of Kawatsura detail that it stands apart from ordinary Shikki requires the utmost skill and care. soy sauce. In 1985 the brewery became Artisans first painstakingly apply thin OGA KURO SHIO— the first private company to receive the layers of a delicate base coat, one after CRYSTALS FROM THE SEA Imperial Prize for a product, and had been another, before carefully finishing with a Akita has a long history of artistry that ex- a frequent winner of prizes by the Ministry shiny, oil-rich lacquer. Today, some artists tends well beyond finished crafts and cui- of Agriculture. While foodies will certainly such as Kou Sato of the Li-Zan workshop sine, down to the smallest of materials and appreciate the difference in flavor, thanks have launched a renaissance in the art ingredients. With its prize-winning, artisa- to Yamakyu Shoyu’s long and lauded form by combining modern design ele- nal black sea salt, Oga Kobo upholds this history a simple bottle of soy sauce can ments while staying true to eight centuries tradition. Using only local water from the even become a set piece for dinnertime of traditional techniques. While Kawatsura Japan Sea, Oga Kobo slowly evaporates the conversation. Shikki is available in stores throughout the water in flat, heavy, meter-wide iron pans, Whether it be old samurai manors area, a trip to the workshops and galleries leaving behind a light dusting of tiny black and gardens, traditional crafts, sweets, or of Yuzawa offers a unique opportunity to pyramid-shaped crystals. Because of the even the seemingly simplest of seasonings, see the artists at work as well as the diverse thorough, artisanal process, it takes nearly Akita’s attention to detail and craft show range and variety of these elegant crafts. three tons of water to make just five small through in all of its traditional processes.

HOW TO GET TO OITA & EHIME

he relaxing hot springs and mouth-watering fine cuisine of Oita and Matsuyama are now closer than they’ve ever been! Jetstar lets you discover theseT great destinations with their famous low fares, and all within two hours from Narita airport.

Jetstar flies up to three times a week to both Oita from ¥5,490*, and Matsuyama from ¥4,590*.

Fly with Jetstar’s welcoming cabin crew, enjoy the BUY YOUR TICKETS AT LAWSON comfortable leather seats and savour the fantastic CONVENIENCE STORES selection of food & drinks available to purchase in-flight to complete your travel experience. FOR EVEN BETTER DEALS, REGISTER To find out more, visit www.jetstar.com WITH JETMAIL AND SAVE MORE!

*Fares are Economy Class [Starter] one way, 10 kg carry-on baggage only. For all bookings, a Booking and Service Fee of ¥300 per passenger, per domestic fare applies. Fares are non-refundable. Limited changes are permitted, charges apply. Availability is limited (not available on all flights or days). Conditions apply. ONLY PAY FOR WHAT YOU ORDER! 30 | TRAVEL | EHIME

EHIME: THE JEWEL OF THE INLAND SEA urrounded by the Inland Sea, Ehime’s off the best of Japan’s traditional architecture. The friendly locals, stunning scenery, and view of the building at night, when soft yellow light excellent food would be reason enough to shines through the shōji paper screens, is especially visit. But it is also a land of quiet tradition, impressive. homeS to Japan’s oldest onsen and to one of the only The neighborhood has the feel of a hot-spring 12 remaining castle towers that predate the Edo town of old, with guests from the area’s many ryokan Period. With flights from Haneda—and service inns and hotels walking the streets in traditional added from Narita this June—it is easier than ever yukata, wooden geta click-clacking on the pavement. to visit. Thanks to the onsen’s popularity, and the nearby Dogo While many of Japan’s hot springs claim long Shopping Arcade, the neighborhood has much more and renowned pasts, none can match the 3,000-year energy and variety than more remote onsen towns. history of Matsuyama’s Dogo Onsen. Mentioned in The Dogo Shopping Arcade is home to a number of some of Japan’s oldest literature and legends, the cafés and stores selling the area’s traditional Tobe- true history of the springs is shrouded in mystery. yaki pottery, indigo-dyed fabrics, and of course a According to one legend, the spring was discovered plethora of local foods. For visitors short on time or when a brilliant white heron nursed its injured leg in who may not be comfortable with a public hot spring, the waters and was miraculously healed. The current there is the Dogo Ashi-no-yu footbath to soak legs building is an elegant wooden structure showing weary from a day of touring the town. EHIME | TRAVEL | 31

1 3 The vista of the sea below glistening EHIME: THE JEWEL OF in the sunlight, green islands in the distance, and seemingly endless water meeting the sky at the horizon is

2 breathtaking.

over 500 species of fauna, the Inland Sea offers up endless variety. Because everything is so fresh, Ehime’s seafood dishes tend to be lightly seasoned to best bring out the unique flavors of the main ingredients. Said to have originally been made by local marines to celebrate a victory at sea is the region’s traditional horaku yaki. Made from seasonal seafood such as sea 1 Matsuyama Castle keeps its watch over the city 2 bream, shrimp, and clams, the ingredients 3 One of Ehime’s signature products: the mikan Island are grilled in a heavy iron pan over a layer hopping on the Shimanami Sea Route. of coarse salt. Ehime’s best known seafood, though, is its taimeshi: a whole sea bream A short distance to the southwest, the calm, warm waters of the Seto Inland cooked in an iron pot with rice and light perched on Mt. Katsuyama, Matsuyama Sea. The best way to experience this unique seasonings. Perfectly cooked, the sea bream Castle has stood watch over the city for more scenery is a trip along the Shimanami Sea takes on the delicate flavors of the seasonings than 400 years. Originally built in 1627, the Route, a series of nine bridges that hop from without being overpowered by them, each bite castle has suffered the ravages of fires and island to island, stretching from Hiroshima to flaking apart, both tender and chewy. Another bombings, but each time has risen from the Ehime. The vista of the sea below glistening delicacy, for anyone lucky enough to try it, is a ashes and the castle remains true to its feudal in the sunlight, green islands in the distance, whole sea bream cut into sashimi and served roots. White plaster walls contrast with a and seemingly endless water meeting the with an artistic flourish. beautifully crafted dark wood interior. It is sky at the horizon is breathtaking. Each While it makes for a good getaway over a one of Japan’s last truly impressive hilltop island offers a variety of different places to long weekend, after experiencing a just a taste castles, and the castle tower offers stunning rest, explore, and take in the relaxed pace of what Ehime has to offer, you might not want views out over the city and the expanse of of the Inland Sea’s island culture. Frequent to leave. the Inland Sea below. Standing on the castle stops are a must. grounds, watching the sun sink down over While the bridges are open to cars HOW TO GET THERE the city is a magical experience. In the and buses, the 70-km route makes for an spring, climb to the top to look out over a excellent bicycle ride. Not only can travelers sea of cherry blossoms, floating like clouds rent a bicycle at the beginning of the route below. and return it at the other end, the route is In contrast to the towering castle, the largely a flat, smooth ride. It is easily one of adjacent Ninomaru Historical Gardens seem the most stunning rides in all of Japan, and to hide quietly in the hillside. Once the manor accessible to anyone in decent shape. Taking of the Matsuyama Clan, the gardens have a day to cycle, explore the islands, and try been redesigned to blend with the ruins of some of the Seto Naikai’s famous cuisine is a the old manor. The foundations of the old perfect introduction to the prefecture. buildings have been turned into serene ponds, And whether it be harvested from the surrounded by greenery and flowers. Visitors verdant, sun-soaked hills, or hoisted from can join in a tea ceremony on weekends, and the Inland Sea, Ehime’s cuisine is second the garden even holds torchlight outdoor Noh to none in freshness and quality. Ehime EHIME performances and events throughout the is best known for its abundant and sweet OITA year. The streets below the castle, near the mikan oranges, of which it grows the most— ropeway to the east, are also full of interesting and arguably the best—in all of Japan. shops, cafés, and restaurants. Wandering the Additionally, it produces a wide range of side streets, especially, is sure to reveal some fresh mikan jams, juices, and liqueurs, all of 1 Hour 40 mins (approx.) from Narita hidden gems. which make for excellent souvenirs to take Airport to Matsuyama with Jetstar But there is far more to Ehime than just back home. Matsuyama. The prefecture is known for its The best of Ehime’s cuisine though, is 2 Hours 50 mins by ferry from Ehime to Beppu or Usuki (Oita) picturesque natural surroundings, especially the seafood fresh from the Inland Sea. With

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 32 | TRAVEL | OITA

OITA: A LAND OF PLENTY REJUVENATION & INSPIRATION IN THE HEART OF KYUSHU

n the old records of Japan, it is written that before all the An excellent way to relax any time of year, the onsen is islands of the country were united under one leader, the even better during the winter months—an energy boost in the legendary 12th Emperor of Yamato, Keikō, was searching morning or a way to warm up after a day outside. Different for an ideal point to make his landing on Kyushu. The springs contain different minerals, including water that is rich region that he chose became the main waypoint for the in iron, carbonates, and even sulfur. There are eleven types of armiesI of Yamato (what we now call Honshu) as they moved hot springs in the world, and only in Beppu can you sample through this southern island. In honor of its strategic importance, ten. The mineral content makes for baths that come in a variety the region was dubbed Toyo-kuni—Abundant Land—and much of colors—most of the hot springs are clear, but there are also of it now makes up the prefecture we call Oita. hot springs in brown, milky white, and sky blue. They are also Originally, Oita was the name of one of the districts within said to be good for treating various ailments, from high blood Toyo-kuni, and is said to come from the phrase okita, which pressure to diabetes. While not a substitute for medicine, the used to mean “many fields.” While the pronunciation of this onsen’s power to invigorate can’t be disputed. phrase has changed since those distant times, Oita has a rich and varied landscape, encompassing rugged coastlines, Kyushu’s SIGHTS highest peak, and picturesque meadows with rolling hills. The One of Oita’s hallmark spectacles does require you to sacrifice abundance of this land includes a wealth of natural hot spring some sleep during your vacation. Early in the day, before the water, artistic and cultural treasures, and a hoard of culinary layers of morning mist have burned off, the valleys by the cities delights. of Yufu and Kusu are filled with dense blankets of white, a vista that is well worth the early morning wakeup. ONSEN Down the coast from Beppu lies the town of Usuki, where Every minute, the geothermal energy that lies underneath Oita Buddha figures carved on a rock face can be found. Cut into the Prefecture boils enough spring water to fill Tokyo Dome two and cliffs outside the city, the Usuki Sekibutsu, or stone Buddhas, a half times over. Only the area around Yellowstone Park in the sit in silent contemplation as they have since the Heian Period. United States bests Oita for production of hot spring water, and Tourists can rent bicycles for free at the Usuki JR station, and for onsen lovers, Oita can be a true paradise. this National Treasure site is only a short ride away. OITA | TRAVEL | 33

HOT SPRING TOWNS

everal resort towns have sprung up to make the most of the wealth of Oita’s natural hot S springs; two of the best known are Beppu (see next page) and Yufuin, which are known for OITA: A LAND OF PLENTY their relaxed pace, and their wide variety of onsen. From afar, you can recognize an onsen resort town by the steam from the chimneys scattered throughout the cities. And in the towns, it’s not unusual to see visitors walking about in yukata as they pass the day going from bath to bath, sampling the different qualities of the various baths. In addition to the hot springs that you can enter, there are many locations where the heat from the earth spits up steam, mud, and very hot sand. They are called jigoku, or hells, and by the name, you know they’re not the type of place you’re going to soak in! However, the many hues of these various hells are one of the signature sights of this region.

A BOUNTIFUL TABLE

ineral-rich waters that spring from Oita’s earth feed land’s rich crops and healthy livestocks on land and sea. From the M Inland Sea come the fresh tastes of local mackerel and fugu, or pufferfish, which is well known for its delicate flavor. The Bungo area of Oita is home to what some experts call the origin of wagyu beef, and the meat of these cows is famed for its rich marbling and superb taste. Shiitake mushrooms, an established star in kitchens around the world, are another celebrated product of the region. If you’d like to get a sample of the flavors of Oita’s many fields without having to roam too far afield from Tokyo, the restaurant Zarai Oita in Yurakucho offers a full selection of meals based on the fresh tastes and ingredients of this rich land.

ART & CULTURE

o be reminded of the richness of Oita’s cultural heritage, you need only look at the T face of the ¥10,000 bill: Yukichi Fukuzawa, the founder of Keio University, was a native son of Oita. In the spirit of later foundations like the National Trust, Fukuzawa chose to buy a large plot of land near his childhood home to protect the scenery. Not far from that land is the Kunisaki peninsula, location of Oita Airport and a site of inspiration for artists both ancient and modern. The stone temple of Rokugo Manzan, an early Buddhist culture that is unique to the region, can be visited by paths that wend through the mountainous area, and contemporary art projects such as the Kunisaki Art Festival contribute to the region’s artistic environment. Bamboo ware, or takezaiku, is a traditional practice that dates back to the 14th century and the baskets used by local peddlers. Since then, takezaiku has been a craft that is deeply wedded to daily life in Oita, and a much-loved symbol of Beppu’s craftwork. Thanks to the discipline of modern artisans, this age-old craft has evolved into a true art form, yielding products that are both exquisite and practical. And bamboo lanterns take center stage in many festivals, transforming streets and temples into large-scale light sculptures.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 A STEAM-POWERED VACATION IN BEPPU city’s tourist association that commemorates your achievement. The hottest springs around Beppu are not meant for soaking in: the jigoku, or “hells,” are colorful and impressive demonstrations of nature’s force. Like the onsen Some of the town’s other culinary specialties around the town, these that you shouldn’t miss during your stay picturesque hot springs include Beppu’s famous reimen, a cold noodle each have their colorful dish that can be a welcome cooldown from appeal: a tour of Beppu’s the warmth of the baths, even in the middle of hot springs will take you winter, and the secret recipe of Beppu toriten, to the turquoise blue fried chicken that is prepared to have a perfect waters of the umi jigoku balance of crunch and tenderness. Many of the oaking in an onsen until all of the (or “ocean hell”) and the iron-stained chinoike onsen, cafés, and hotels of Beppu specialize in tension seeps out of your body, you get jigoku—fearsomely dubbed the “blood pond a sweet enticement to tempt visitors to drop in up and cool yourself off in a cooler bath, hell,” it is said to be the oldest of these natural during their onsen pilgrimages. Just like the or maybe you move out to the open air hot springs around Japan. varied qualities of onsen in Beppu, the local Sbath. You think about your schedule for the rest If you want to step away from the relaxation pudding comes in wide varieties of sweetness, of the day. It’s completely packed: two or three of Beppu’s hot springs, the Aso-Kujyu National firmness, and color, for a delight to any palate. more onsen to try, a visit to some spectacularly Park and Mt. Tsurumi are only a short cable car After experiencing the slow life and colored hot springs, and two hearty meals. A ride away. The peak of the volcanic mountain relaxation of Beppu, all of the busyness of your vacation in Beppu can be tough, but you can offers stunning views of the surrounding land daily life just might disappear like vapor above handle it. and the waters of the Inland Sea. The area the air of this hot spring city. A short trip south from the Oita Airport, is spectacular during the winter, when frost Beppu is perhaps the most popular of Oita’s covers the foliage around the park. HOW TO GET THERE onsen resort towns. The group of eight hot springs around the city are known collectively as the Beppu Hattō, and host millions of visitors who come each year for “onsen pilgrimages.”

HOT SPRINGS The many hot springs in the region area are rich in different minerals, which make for onsen of many colors and qualities. Baths drawn with water that is rich in carbonates is said to be good for skin conditions, for example, and while the smell of sulfur may put people off, it OITA AIRPORT is believed to be good for high blood pressure. EHIME Like a well prepared multi-course meal, the THE FLAVORS OF BEPPU cumulative effect of soaking in various baths, The forces underneath the earth are even OITA one after the other, can be an unforgettable used for the local cuisine. Jigokumushi, a experience. cooking technique that is both ecologically You might not think that you could earn conscious and healthful, harnesses the power rewards for soaking in Beppu’s many hot of geothermal heat to steam food in baskets. 90+ minutes by air from Tokyo to Oita springs, but if you fancy attaining the title of Thanks to the natural flavors of the quality (16–17 round trips per day) “Hot Spring Master,” you should step up to ingredients that Oita is known for and the the challenge. If you visit all 88 of the onsen various minerals of the hot springs, you can 70+ minutes by ferry from from Oita to Ehime in Beppu (it might take you more than one expect a heavenly taste from a style of cooking (36 round trips per day) visit!), you will receive a certificate from the that can be translated as “hell steaming.” HOTELS IN OITA

RYOUCHIKU BETTEI xquisitely landscaped outdoor baths, a mix of modern and traditional décor, and fine dining options make Ryouchiku Bettei an excellent option E for visitors to Beppu. Ryouchiku Bettei’s kitchen treats its guests to the seasonal variety of the area’s local cuisine. Meal options include Oita’s celebrated wagyu beef, the freshest fish from the Seto Inland Sea, and bento meals that highlight the region’s specialties. Combining easy access to sightseeing around Beppu with an ideal environment for relaxation, Ryouchiku Bettei has a wide selection of spacious, comfortably appointed rooms on its eight floors, and offers seven different onsen, ranging from picturesque open air baths to convivial family baths.

Address: 874-0822 Oita-ken, Beppu-shi Kankaiji 3 Web: www.bst.ac.jp | Tel: 0977-26-0022 | Fax: 0977-26-5757

he Hasuwa Inn is a traditional-style Japanese guest THE HASUWA INN house that offers a quiet, comfortable atmosphere and a variety of onsen, located near the tranquil and scenic T Yufu mountain range. After a long day of exploring the area around Yufu, you can relax in the naturally clear water of the Hasuwa Inn onsen, including their rotemburo—open air hot spring baths. Popular with couples and families alike, two different rotemburo are available: the cypress wood “Love Spa,” and the “Flower Spa.” Traditional Japanese furnishing, such as tatami mats and sliding doors, add to the ambience at this guest house. Rooms at the Hasuwa Inn are priced at ¥7,000 a night per person. Lunch and dinner is not offered, but a traditional Japanese breakfast is available for an additional ¥840.

Address: 879-5103 Oita-ken, Yufuin-cho, Yufu-shi, 837-8 Kawa-minami Email: [email protected] | Tel: 0977-85-5199 | Fax: 0977-85-4804

SUGINOI HOTEL uilt on a hill with a breathtaking view of the Seto Inland Sea, the Suginoi Hotel offers a complete luxury experience. The hotel complex includes three B buildings that house 592 rooms, with a choice of Japanese-Western style, traditional Japanese, and Western rooms in a variety of sizes. Its signature tanayu, spread out over five layers like a terraced rice field, gives guests a chance to look out over Beppu City in the ultimate onsen experience. Japanese, Western and Chinese buffet meals, made from the freshest ingredients from Oita Prefecture, are very popular at the Suginoi. And with a family-friendly “The Aqua Garden,” bowling area, and game corner, you can be sure that everyone in your group will enjoy their stay.

Address: 874-0822 Oita-ken, Beppu-shi, Kankaiji 1 Web: www.suginoi-hotel.com | Tel: 0977-24-1141 | Fax: 0977-21-0010

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 Information

Seats available for solo travelers, couples, and groups.

Travel time between Ehime and Oita: Adventures on the Inland Sea 2 hours, 50 minutes Oita and Ehime: six a day between Yawatahama and Beppu and seven a day Famed for its mild weather, countless islands, and tranquil waters, the Seto between Yawatahama and Usuki. Inland Sea is known as the Aegean of Japan. The landscape and locations of General seating area tickets: ¥3,020 this region have been celebrated in centuries of writing, from classical works First-class cabin tickets (groups of four to eight): ¥5,500 like The Tale of Genji to modern pieces of travel literature, such as Donald Private suites, furnished with a private Richie’s The Inland Sea. Even in today’s fast-paced Japan, the area around the bathroom, bed, and sofa: ¥8,500 Inland Sea still moves at a slightly slower pace. Yawatahama ferry terminal in Ehime: 5 minutes by taxi from JR Yawatahama station, 30 If you’re traveling between the islands of Shikoku and Kyushu, taking in the minutes on foot. hot springs and scenery of Oita or Ehime’s rich cultural heritage and cuisine, Beppu ferry terminal in Oita: 10 minutes by taxi one the best ways to experience the atmosphere of these lands linked by the from Beppu JR station, 40 minutes on foot. Inland Sea is on the sea itself. After the convenience and speed of a flight, the relaxed pace of a ferry trip between Ehime and Oita is like a cruise on a small scale, a moment to catch your breath in the middle of your journey.

The Uwajima Unyu Ferries, which have been running routes between Oita and Ehime since 1884, now offer a total of 13 round trips every day between termi- Ehime nals at Yawatahama, Beppu, and Usuki. Yawatahama Beppu Usuki Oita

www.uwajimaunyu.co.jp EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 37

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PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE, WITH BILL HERSEY

usually find it difficult to start the column, but once I get started good fashion, but I just didn’t see that much glamour and glitz at the Vogue- it’s difficult to stop. Our hard-working new editor Alec Jordan had sponsored event. I’ve met the Vogue people here and think they put out a to cut 500 words last column, and since they’re not dated, I’ll take really high-class magazine, but I feel they need to get their act together on the time to pass along what I feel are interesting, and hopefully their fashion night. I’d also like to mention—a recent issue of male Vogue Ihelpful discoveries that I’ve recently come across in this ever-changing looked more like an S&M magazine you’d pick up in West Hollywood than a great city of ours. fashion publication. With that, it’s time to move on to our city’s social scene. Continuing with Shibuya from last column, here are some mentions worth checking out. Starting with one of my favorites, Tokyu Hands and Arab Day Gala Celebration—Mandarin Hotel its seven floors not only have everything you could want to update your This year’s Arab Day was celebrated by a first class party all the way in the living quarters, but a huge variety of sporting goods including a great elegant ballroom of the Mandarin Hotel. The evening was organized and bicycle shop, the latest in luggage, accessories, fun fashion items, office, hosted by the Council of Arab Ambassadors and Heads of Missions in Tokyo. school, and art supplies, party decorations, and crafts and gifts from The twenty-two member countries under the leaders of Palestine around the world. Ambassador Waleed Siam, who’s Dean of the Arab Diplomatic Corps made it Other unusual shops near Tokyu Hands include the 3 Coins Shop, a very special event in every way. where everything (and there’s a lot) cost 300 yen. The Weekender’s owner The huge Arabic-inspired centerpiece in the middle of the ballroom was Ray Pedersen’s green thumb (He’s great with plants) rubbed off on me, and beautifully created by a very artistic lady—Jamilah al-Otaibi, wife of the I got a half dozen great plants for my apartment there. If you’re looking Kuwaiti Ambassador. Each of the Arab countries had their chefs prepare for something a little cheaper there’s a super 100-yen store just downstairs food for the buffet, and it was excellent. from 3 Coins. Special guests included popular Prime Minister Shinzo Abe, and after his Nearby is the busy and always helpful Udagawa Police Box, and right congratulatory speech he was swamped by guests trying to shake his hand, across the street is the 354 Bar with a big sign in English that reads “The have their photo taken with him, or just be close to the amazing man. only bar on the earth where you can shoulder a portable shrine (Mikoshi).” I tried this in a local festival once, and was sore for a week. Dewi’s Charity Banquet at Meguro Gajoen Popcorn is really catching on in Tokyo. There are still long lines of As always Lady Dewi Sukarno’s Grand Imperial Charity Banquet (the 16th people waiting for a bag of Garrett popcorn near Harajuku Station from annual) to benefit the Japanese Red Cross Society and the Association for about 10 am until early evening. There’s a new shop called Kukuruza Aid and Relief, Japan, was one of the highlights of this year’s social events— popcorn where people are also lining up, in Omotesando across the street “Maiougi,” the huge beautiful venue at Meguro Gajoen was wall-to-wall with from Kiddyland. Even my favorite market—Azabu National Supermarket— about 550 of Japan’s (and some expat) rich and famous including a lot of just opened a Hill Valley popcorn shop on the veranda at the back of the entertainment and fashion personalities. store which is very popular. The dinner was excellent as they always are at Dewi’s events, as was Finally I’m sorry to say that I didn’t find fashion night on Omotesando the dinner show. The opening act was a dynamic violin solo by award- very exciting this year. Japan, as we all know, has a great reputation for winning 11-year old Raika Tetsu who’s really talented and professional.

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 41

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Arab Day Celebration – Mandarin Hotel Dewi’s Super Charity Banquet 1. Palestine Ambassador Waleed Siam, Dean of the Arab Diplomatic Corps and 7. Coca Cola’s Rep Dir/VP Michael Coombs and his wife Keika 8. Hayato Tani, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe 2. The wives of Arab Ambassadors and Heads of Katsuya Takasu, Yukiko Kashiwagi, Aya Sugimoto, Hisako Manda, Dewi Sukarno, Missions in Japan. Lilico, Chieko Matsubara, Mr. Allan Pollack, Minako Imada 9. Hisako Manda, Chieko Matsubara, Dewi Sukarno, Lilico 10. Minako Imada, Mitsuko Ishii, Dewi ’s Glorious “Gloria” at Harumi Sukarno, Chieko Matsubara, Yumi Katsura 11. Kotoyuuki-rikishi, Sadogatake- 3. Commanding officer, Gloria’s Capt. Miguel Angel Cisuentes and Colombian oyakata, Keika Coombs, Michael Coombs, Dewi Sukarno, Hiroaki Kogure. Ambassador, Patricia Cardenas 4. Young Colombian Naval Cadets performed on the ship 5. Kurando Aida; his father, business tycoon Kimikazu Aida; Eduardo Halloween all over Tokyo Cardenas 6. Peruvian Ambassador Elard Escala, Rosa Cardenas, Argentine 12. Nat’l Azabu’s Osamu & Hidekazu 13. Fox TV’s hit The Walking Dead promo, Tokyo Ambassador Raul Dejean. Tower 14. At the New Lex 15. Oman Embassy: Ambassador Khalid Abeer and guests.

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 42 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES

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Shaharuddin’s Malaysian National Day Reception MIN-ON’s Cuba Cultural Shows 1. Canadian Ambassador Mackenzie, wife Paula Bowers, Australian 7. Diet member Mitsunari Okamoto, Cuban Ambassador Marcos Rodriguez Costa, Ambassador Miller 2. Belgian Ambassador Lic Liebaut, wife Karin, the hosting his wife Rosa 8. Kuwaiti Ambassador Abdul Rahman Al-Otaibi, Two of his sons couple Malaysian Ambassador Datuk Shaharuddin and Datin Nora Sikin, Hamoud and Jamal 9. Min-on Concert Association President Hiroyasu Kobayashi, Ambassador Manuel Lopez 3. Tongan Ambassador Tania Luamanu Ambassador and Señora Rosa Costa 10. Kobayashi-san and renowned Cuban Lupe Topou, Noriko Nomura, Mimi Kuriyama, Momoe Fritz (wife Micronesia), bandleader/vocalist Cesar Lopez. Bicky Comberbach (Zimbabwe) 4. Libyan Ambassador Ahmed A. S. Own, Palestine Ambassador Waleed Siam, Saudi Ambassador Abdulaziz Turkastani Midtown Oakwood Happenings 5. Philippines Ambassador Manuel Lopez, Kuwaiti Ambassador Abdul Rahman 11. Young volunteers from Blackstone wrap toys for Tohokushinsha 12. Volunteer Al-Otaibi, Grand Master of Ceremonies Imperial Household Nobutaka Odano, leaders Kizuna Foundation’s Satoshi Kitahama, Oakwood Premiere’s Amy 6. Señora Christine Escala, Maria Teresa Lopez, Ambassador Elard Escala Hanashiro, Blackstone’s Daniel K. Fujii.

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 43

This was followed by a colorful and exciting song, dance and shamisen I thank this former Ambassador and his wife H.M. and Noni Khatib by renowned entertainer Naomichi Hanazano. During his and his dance for a fantastic two-week trip all over Malaysia. They provided me with a groups’ show, Dewi left our table, went to a dressing room and changed cool Malaysian car—a Proton Saga. After several days in colorful exciting from her elegant evening dress to a colorful and elegant kimono in which Kuala Lampur, I drove to Penang, took a ferry boat to Langkawi, back to she joined Naomichi for a graceful traditional Japanese dance. She looked Penang, up to the Cameron Highlands and back to K.L. There was another and danced beautifully. trip to legendary Malacca with its pink church, and back to K.L. before This was followed by a performance by one of Japan’s top singers flying down to Sarawak and Sabah, back to K.L. and home to Tokyo. It was Hiromi Go. I’ve known Hiromi about 30 years. He was a super pop idol a truly fantastic travel experience in every way. Had another great trip to when my brother Chris (God bless his soul) was here and doing concerts the exotic rain forest music festival later. Believe me my friends you should (he could really sing) with so many Japanese stars at that time. Hiromi’s visit Malaysia and Visit Malaysia 2014 is the right time to do it. 58 now, but looks much younger. He still has a great stage presence. By I, by the way, would like to thank Zimbabwe Ambassador Harold the end of his show, he had most of the more than 500 guests on their Stuart Comberbach and his wife Bicky for the ride to Chinzanso. They are feet, dancing and singing along with the songs he had made famous. The certainly one of the coolest couples I know. evening ended with a charity auction of paintings, luxury handbags and jewelry and many brand name raffle prizes. Min-On Brings Cuba to Japan “Oops They Did It Again.” As I mentioned before, Soka Gakkai’s Min-On Just People concert association is a true leader in bringing cultural shows from all over Looking back, I find it amazing how many wonderful people I’ve met the world and taking Japanese cultural programs overseas. One of the most and got to know through writing this column. These certainly include recent was a dynamic Cuban musical show by world famous sax player an exceptional couple who are right at the top—Philippines Ambassador and bandleader, Cesar Lopez, and Habana Ensemble. The program was a Manuel Lopez and his dynamic lady, Maria Teresa. Mixing with them and two solid enjoyable hours of a wide variety of Cuban music by the 10-piece the crowd at a recent Filipino festival in Yokohama made me realize even orchestra, the popular singer Ana Iris, and four (two guys, two girls) really more how respected and loved they are by their big community in Japan. hot dancers. Min-On worked with a really nice couple, Cuban Ambassador I feel so lucky to have them, and so many other wonderful friends out Marcos Rodriguez Costa and his wife Rosa and the Cuban Ministry of there. I often visit Midtown’s Oakwood Premiere residences to say hello Culture on getting this all together. to Oakwood execs Martin Fluck, Eric Ichimura and their super staff, and I A few weeks later Min-On had a jazz concert featuring headliner have a space there with a great view of the park where I can work on the Herbie Hancock. Unfortunately I couldn’t make it. Got to know Herbie column. over the years when he dropped by the New Lex Tokyo. He’s a member of The Oakwood lounge is always busy, and have really met some Soka Gakkai. Also sorry when I heard two friends who also belong to Soka interesting people. These include sumo great/entertainer Konishiki and Gakkai, world’s top Australian model Miranda Kerr and actor Orlando his gorgeous wife Chie who do much of their charity work for many Bloom recently divorced. They’re both so busy, it was difficult to spend causes outside of Midtown. Others include baseball, soccer and rugby much time together. players and F-1 drivers. Then there’s usually a business leader on two that include Pasona President Kazuyuki Namba. The place is usually a beehive Colombia’s “Gloria” visits Japan of activity with wine tastings, special parties, and volunteer workers from This magnificent Colombian Naval officer’s training ship was docking at “Hands on Tokyo” and Blackstone wrapping gifts for Konishiki’s “Kona Harumi Pier for four days. I’ve had open houses for the cadets and crew of Santa” projects in Tohoku and elsewhere. Two of the primary donors are Mexico’s Cuauhtemoc, the Chilean Esmeralda and several other countries’ “Toys R Us” and Lego. Konishiki by the way has a new blonde, red, and training ships over the years at the New Lex Tokyo. I met with Colombian green hairstyle. He’s a fun guy. Ambassador Patricia Cardenas and her staff and planned on doing the same for those on the Gloria. Malaysian Celebration at Chinzanso Unfortunately Mother Nature had other plans that included a typhoon. Malaysian Ambassador Shaharuddin Md. Son and his wife Datin Nora The Gloria arrived and anchored at Harumi, there was a small ceremony Sikin both looked super chic in Malaysian national fashion at the and the Japanese officials, noting the approaching typhoon, requested reception they hosted to celebrate their beautiful country’s National Day that the Gloria leave Harumi and I guess sail around a few days until the at the Chinzanso Hotel. They’re a popular couple and as expected, there weather cleared up. This cut two days off the three and a half days they was a big crowd event at the early evening. The program included an were in Tokyo. They were able to extend their stay for one day, and hosted excellent speech by the Ambassador, another by a Japanese dignitary, a marvelous evening of Colombian hospitality on the ship. This included the playing of the Malaysian and Japanese anthems and a toast. music, dancing and a show by a group of cadets (guys and girls) 2014 has been designated as “Visit Malaysia” year, and who changed from their uniforms to colorful Colombian there’s a full calendar of special events to make this an festival costumes for a dance show. I regretted having to even bigger and full schedule of events, bargains and great cancel the New Lex Tokyo parties, but hopefully we can do experiences in Malaysia. this the next time the Gloria visits Japan.

Coffeebreak at Hiroo Segafredo: Singer Claudia They’re regulars at Segafredo: Serbian couple A birthday party for Ceremony President Vasquez and her friend Senka and Boris Tsukasa Shiga with his wife Anna and their beautiful little girl Anastasia

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 MOVIES COMING TO A CINEMA NEAR YOU IN DECEMBER

DEC 6 47 RONIN he story of the 47 Ronin, a group of samurai warriors in the 18th century who avenged Tthe death of their master by killing the man responsible before committing suicide themselves, is known throughout Japan. The tale has been repeated in books, plays and movies for generations as a distinctly Japanese example of persistence and loyalty. This is the first non-Japanese dramatization and, in time-honored Hollywood tradition, it’s taking more than a few liberties with the source material. A group of samurai are left stranded after their master is killed by an warlord, so they seek Kai, a halfbreed and their potential savior. plays Kai, a role which shouldn’t be too unfamiliar: it’s got more than a whiff of Neo about it. Where the film really differs from previous versions is its inclusion of fantasy elements, as the warriors battle across the land against hordes of monstrous beasts and deadly sorcery. Its mix of mutants, monsters and martial arts is a blend not far removed from Grecian gore fest 300. 47 Ronin includes a fine cast of Japanese talent including Rinko Kikuchi, last seen on our screens during this summer’s Pacific Rim, as a shapeshifting sorceress and , who played The Wolverine’s villainous Shingen. Interestingly, while both of these films were heavily inspired by Japanese culture they both failed to set the Japanese box office alight. Perhaps this one can buck the trend.

DEC 14 THE HUNGER GAMES: CATCHING FIRE DEC 27 he Hunger Games: Catching Fire is the follow-up to last year’s The Hunger TGames and is the second part of a trilogy. Based on the books by American author Suzanne Collins, the series tells the story of Katniss Everdeen, a young girl living in a future society where, like in Japan’s own Battle Royale, young people are chosen by lottery to compete in a televised death match. THE BLING RING The last film ended with Katniss, played CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF MEATBALLS 2 by this year’s Academy Award Best Actress hanks to her 2003 breakthrough hit t’s a good time for animation with Pixar winner Jennifer Lawrence, having survived Lost in Translation Sofia Coppola having set the template for exciting, the competition. Now she must embark will forever have a link to Japan, funny, and often moving movies that T on a victory tour but trouble is brewing as I and the director is currently in favor with appeal to adults as much as the youngsters. protests are breaking out in opposition to the the country’s fashion-conscious youth due Other companies have been mimicking the tyrannical ruling powers. The film also stars to her stylish films and chic style. After Pixar formula with mixed success and one Woody Harrelson as mentor Haymitch, and earning an Academy Award nomination film that really stood out from the rest was Donald Sutherland as President Snow. for her previous film Somewhere, Coppola the wacky and inventive Cloudy with a Chance has returned to tell the story of a group of DEC 27 of Meatballs. When inventor Flint makes a teenagers who rob the homes of celebrities. machine that causes food to rain from the sky Based on actual events, The Bling Ring stars it’s not long before disaster strikes and a huge young up-and-comers Israel Broussard and food storm approaches. Flint weathered the Katie Chang as Marc and Rebecca. Marc is storm and now he’s back for Cloudy with a the new kid in town who finds a friend in Chance of Meatballs 2. This time the machine Rebecca. With a little help from the internet, is making living food beasts—think Tacodiles, the two of them discover that they can walk Shrimapanzees and Mosquitoast—and Flint into the houses of absent celebrities and and his friends must get back into action to take what they want. save the day.

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com SHOWING THIS MONTH | SCREEN | 45 DEC 13

10 OF THE BEST: THE MUST SEE MOVIES OF 2013

Gravity - Ok, so it’s being released this month and many people won’t have seen it yet but there’s going to be very few critics who don’t put this on their ‘Best of’ list. An outstanding work of filmmaking and a true tour-de-force.

The Tale of Princess Kaguya /The Wind Rises - 2013 was very special for Ghibli fans, with two films on release. While Hayao Miyazaki’s final full-length work may have captured the headlines, GRAVITY The Tale of Princess Kaguya is the better film, a beautiful retelling of a classic Japanese folk tale. exican director Alfonso Cuarón first came to attention with the road movie Y tu mamá también before cementing his Beasts of the Southern Wild - Centered around a Mreputation with a stab at a major franchise on Harry Potter and very big performance from young Quevenzhané the Prisoner of Azkaban and the excellent science fiction dramaChildren Wallis, the eight-year-old actress who picked up of Men. With his latest, Gravity, the director has moved into the upper an Academy Award nomination for her role as young Hushpuppy, a little girl who “lived with her tier of best working directors in the world. The film is an incredible daddy in the bathtub.” cinematic experience, which has to be seen on the biggest screen you can find. Sandra Bullock stars as Dr. Ryan Stone, an astronaut on her Blancanieves - Another from this month, first mission accompanied by veteran Matt Kowalski (George Clooney). Blancanieves tells the story of Snow White with While making repairs outside their craft the pair are hit by a cloud of the heroine as a bullfighter in 1920s Spain. space debris, leaving Ryan floating helplessly through space. The doctor Beautifully shot and acted. must make her way back to safety in the face of insurmountable odds in an unforgiving environment where any mistake will result in death. The Jodorowsky’s Dune - Shown at this year’s Tokyo action is heart-stoppingly intense but the film never loses sight of the International Film Festival, this documentary very human protagonist in this extraordinary work. A must see. is a tribute to wonderfully talented surrealist filmmaker Alejandro Jodorowsky and a film that was never made. DEC 7 Dredd - In a quiet year for comic book movies, Dredd did less well than it deserved. A tightly scripted siege thriller sees cult 2000AD character Judge Dredd trapped in a tower block controlled by drug baron “Ma-ma,” with tough action and some trippy effects.

Strutter - A lo-fi indie treat set around the clubs and record stores of LA, which sees aspiring musician Brett coping with losing his girlfriend and then his band before taking off into the desert on a road trip.

Like Father, Like Son (Soshite Chichi ni Naru) The familiar premise—two babies are swapped at birth—is saved from typically mawkish BLANCANIEVES melodrama by fine direction from one of Japan’s best, Hirokazu Koreeda. Stars musician and actor few years ago the idea of going to see a black-and-white silent . film would have been unthinkable for many cinemagoers; Zero Dark Thirty - Kathryn Bigelow directed however, the surprise Academy Award success of 2011’s The A insight into the CIA’s hunt for Osama Bin Laden. Artist changed all that. Audiences found an appreciation for the classic Great central performance from Jessica Chastain cinema style and it broadened many people’s ideas about what can and an intense finale in this Best Picture Oscar constitute an entertaining film. Blancanieves is a silent movie that nominated work. takes the story of Snow White and places it in 1920s Spain and the world of the bullfighter. After the rich and famous Antonio Villalta is Looper - Great sci-fi action with two charismatic paralyzed during a performance and his wife dies during childbirth, leads and a lot of good ideas. Joseph Gordon the baby is sent away and the broken Antonio marries his nurse. The Levitt is a mob-hired killer who takes out people baby, young Carmen, is soon forced to return and the new stepmother, sent back from the future. His life takes a turn wickedly portrayed by Pan’s Labyrinth’s Maribel Verdú, turns out to be when it’s his older self, played by Bruce Willis, who is sent back to be disposed of. terribly cruel. Young Carmen finds peace for a time with a traveling group of bullfighting dwarfs before confronting her past. Spanish director Pablo Berger’s film has already found success abroad with its This month’s movie previews were written by emotional and humorous mix of fantasy and drama. Christopher O’Keeffe. For more movie news and reviews visit www.tokyoweekender.com

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 © wakana murata

PATINA TOKYO is the first branch of Patina restaurant in LA, and the first foothold in Japan for PATINA RESTAURANT GROUP, which is a leader in the premium segment of the restaurant industry with over 50 establishments in the US. PATINA TOKYO’s highlights are the spacious dining room, the authentic classic American bar counter, the chef ’s table where guests can host their private events and can be served by the chef directly. With the founder and chef Joachim Splichal’s direction, guests can enjoy the French inspired California cuisine that is full of art and creativity. The chef has even assembled the selected wine list to complement his menu.

Web: patinatokyo.com | Tel: 03-5738-7031 1st floor Kamiyama Forest, 11-15 Kamiyama-Cho, Shibuya- ku, Tokyo, Japan 150-0047

Opening Hours Mon-Fri 11:30-14:00 | Mon-Thu 17:00-23:00(L.O.22:30) | Fri,Sat & HolidayS 17:00-23:30(L.O.23:00) | Closed On Sundays EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 47

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 AGENDA DECEMBER 1

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5 AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN DECEMBER

1 DEC 13-16 2 DEC 15-16 3 DEC 7-8 4 DEC 31 Kool & The Gang Setagaya Boroichi Fair Earth Xmas Garden Countdown 2014 at AgeHa Debuting in the 1960s, this Located in the city streets Wrap up warm and head Ring in the New Year at American jazz, soul, funk, of Setagaya, this 430-year- down to Yoyogi Park for Tokyo’s largest club with live R&B, and disco gang is still going strong old fair features nearly 700 vendors a day of live bands and craft shopping performances by electronic Duo Boom as they perform live at Roppongi’s selling various food and products at the many organic and ecologically Boom Satellites, DJ Kentaro, and DJ Kaori. Billboard Live. among the heavy foot traffic. minded stalls. Where: ageHa | How much: ¥2,980 in Where: Billboard Live Where: Setagaya Boro City Street Where: Yoyogi Park, Shinjuku advance, ¥6,000 at the door | Time: 21:00 How much: ¥10,000–¥12,000 How much: Free | Time: 9:00 to 20:00 How much: Free | Time 10:00–18:00 More info: www.ageha.com More info: www.billboard-live.com More info: www.tokyo-cci.or.jp More info: www.earth-garden.jp

5 DEC 17 6 DEC 14 7 DEC 20 8 DEC 7 Gustave Caillebotte at the Bonjour Tokyo RED Road to Ultra Bach-Chor Christmas Bridgestone Museum of Art Christmas Party MASSIVE Party held at Concert This is first exhibition in Joyeux Nöel! ‘Tis the Tokyo’s premier club Just in time for Christmas, Japan dedicated to one of the leading season for holiday parties, and Ageha just days before Christmas. come hear the masterpieces of Bach—in members of the Impressionist school, Bonjour Tokyo will be keeping spirits Headlined by London based trio Above Japanese. The Tokyo-based chorus will whose luminescent paintings depict the high with their final event of the and Beyond with many more top acts. be covering a wide range of the German modernization of 19th century . year. Wear something red! Where: Ageha, Koto composer’s works. Where: Bridgestone Museum of Art, Yaesu Where: Las Chicas, Shibuya How much: from ¥8,500 | Time: 19:00 Where: Suginami Kōkaido, | Time: 13:30 How Much: ¥1,000–¥1,500 How Much: ¥1,000 | Time: 19:30 More info: www.tokyoweekender.com/ How much: ¥3,500-¥4,000 | More info: www. More info:www.bridgestone-museum.gr.jp More info: bonjourtokyo.com/v2/ events/road-to-ultra tokyoweekender.com/events

DECEMBER 2013 www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER | AGENDA | 49 DECEMBER

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10 Blooming

11 BRILLIANT! Get the party started with the classic Outback Bloomin’ Onion®

Bacon Cheese Burger 100% beef patty topped with bacon and cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions, mayo and 12 pickles for the ultimate burger experience! Served with Aussie Fries and cole slaw.

9 DEC 21 10 DEC 15-16 Kitsuné Christmas Party Organic Christmas Market You’ll want to find time for Pick up some gifts for Sirloin Steak & Rib the Kitsuné Bash, possibly Christmas from around the trendiest party in town, with The 20 stalls at the Park Hyatt Tokyo, Combination Swiss and Juan Maclean are playing including food, wine, skincare and Our signature sirloin seasoned with special guests to be announced. lifestyle products. with bold spices, and succulent Where: Womb, Shibuya-ku Where: Park Hyatt Tokyo, Shinjuku and saucy baby back ribs. Time: 21:00 | How much: ¥3500 Time: 10:00–17:00 | How much: Free More info: www.womb.co.jp More info: tokyo.park.hyatt.jp

11 DEC 14 12 DEC 11 Tokyo Fashion Fuse Elvis Costello & The Headlined by world- Imposters renowned Techno DJ Ken The famed singer-songwriter Ishii and backed by some of Tokyo’s will be bringing his intense top models it’s a night you won’t performances to Tokyo in a brand new want to miss. venue in Roppongi. Where: Izumi Garden Gallery, Roppongi Where: EX Theater Roppongi Time: 21:00 | How much: ¥4000 How much: ¥8,000 | Time: 19:30 to 21:00 More info: iflyer.tv/en/event/162694 More info: www.smash-jpn.com

www.tokyoweekender.com DECEMBER 2013 BACK IN THE DAY: DECEMBER 1988 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1988! You can read the rest of this issue (No.49 1988) and view Weekender’s 42 year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/