CRUISING Venetian adventure Venice, with its myriad of islands and waterways, proved an irresistible destination for a historic boating break

ou don’t have to be in a gondola to explore the Venice Y Lagoon, as I found out when we chartered one of Connoisseur’s 14.5 metre Magnifique self-drive motorcruisers. In the course of a week, I discovered that beyond the stunning sinking city lies a magical the boat Magnifique wetland of beautiful islands, linked by The 10-berth 14.5 metre Magnifique is tree trunk-lined canals, that lead, via powered by a 62HP Nanni diesel engine which is supplemented by a bow thruster locks, to rivers running through for manoeuvring in confined waters. marshland, open fields, woodland and Capable of reaching 5 mph, the Norfolk- enchanting pockets of civilisation. built motorcruiser is operated by Connoisseur’s Venetian base is located Connoisseur from their base on to the north of the Lagoon in the town the River . of Casier on the picturesque River Sile. Travelling from the UK to Casier is straightforward, thanks to the direct Cruising past the the author services operated by Ryanair from either Richard Johnstone-Bryden Liverpool or Stansted to and from world famous Venetian Richard is a marine “ the airport it takes just 10 minutes to author and waterfront marked the photographer who reach the boatyard by taxi. The timing of travelled to Venice with our flights enabled us to explore Casier holiday high point his wife Aline. Friends and stock up on fresh provisions before it Sally and Gareth was time to board our hireboat and Behind its curvy lines, the Magnifique completed the crew. begin our Venetian adventure. is a sturdy motorcruiser built to endure ” years of abuse at the hands of the inexperienced. And, as we were also about to discover, she is ideally suited for the inland cruising we were about to undertake. Our floating home proved to be remarkably manoeuvrable in the confined waters and was generally a pleasure to handle. The upper helm position provided good all- round visibility, although I would have appreciated a transparent lid to prevent the wind catching the charts. That one gripe aside, the Magnifique has one feature that sets her apart from her competitors – a vast sundeck with enough room for all of the party to enjoy the scenery while cruising or share alfresco meals and drinks when Crewmembers Gareth, Aline and Sally soak up the sun as they pass St Mark’s Square moored up somewhere special.

44 l August 08 mbmclub.com The Magnifique can sleep up to 10 The view of the islands The river’s remarkably clear water made to request the opening of the gates to people, split between four double berth from San Marco’s Basilica their task a little easier, thus enabling Portegrandi’s lock, which links the River air-cooled cabins with a convertible is breathtaking them to appreciate the grand waterside Sile to the lagoon. Once inside, the double berth in the saloon. With only villas and abandoned wooden burci water level dropped by a foot before the four people in our party it was sheer barges that we encountered on the gates opened to release us. Five minutes luxury. I suspect the conditions would initial 5.5-mile stretch to . later, we were heading through open have become relatively congested The remaining 9.5 miles to marshland as we cruised along the 5 though, with a full compliment on Three hire boats leave the Portegrandi were equally picturesque mile reed-lined Silone Canal. board, especially at mealtimes in the Casier base en route to and with no fees or requirement to On the horizon we could see the saloon. That said, the galley was well Venice via the River Sile book, a short blast of the horn sufficed area’s distinctive, leaning bell equipped to cater for a full boat, packed >> with good quality cooking utensils including an expresso coffee machine for that perfect kick-start to the day. Our cruise began with the 15 nautical mile passage down the River Sile to Portegrandi Lock. At the time of our trip the water levels in the river were approximately 1.5m lower than normal so the base manager advised us to stay as close to the centre of the channel as possible. Without the assistance of an echo sounder, I had to rely on my crew to keep a good look-out for shelving mud banks on the inside of river bends and vegetation along some of the straights. START 1 Casier 5.5 miles 2 9.5 miles Casale sul Sile mbmclub.com August 08 l 45 The Grand Canal is 3800m towers and curious long, 30-90m and . The view of the Grand and cultivating their orchards. looking structures used to wide, with an Despite our Magnifique’s Canal, approaching In stark contrast is the most catch fish, consisting of a low-sided hull and Piazza San Marco, populated island in the lagoon and its average depth aboard a vapetto large net suspended from modest engine power, the female residents are well-known for four metal lattice masts. of 5m weather posed no major their lace making. Dozens of lace shops Roughly halfway along the problems as I brought her line the heart of the island’s streets but canal we picked up the trail of upright alongside. With only the assistance of be warned handmade lace comes with tree trunks, called briccola in Italian, my inexperienced friends to rely on, a hefty pricetag. used throughout the Lagoon to this episode demonstrated that, as long Burano is also recognised by its indicate the extent of the various as one member of the crew can handle brightly painted houses. Rumour has it navigable channels. a craft, this trip is perfectly safe for those the colours of the houses follow a Not wishing to pay marina fees in new to boating. specific system originating from the excess of €80 per night, we headed for Mazzorbo and Burano are two small golden age of its development – Connoisseur’s moorings on the island of islands connected by a footbridge. Mazzorbo. Once round its southern Mazzorbo is strictly residential with only bank, we encountered the relatively one restaurant and no shops. Extremely Not wishing to pay choppy conditions generated by strong peaceful and quiet all year round, expensive marina fees, we winds gusting across the 2.5-mile its inhabitants are “ stretch of open water between devoted to fishing used public moorings Favourite haven ” Vignole, together with its the neighbouring island of neighbouring island of Saint Murano while enjoying a glass of Erasmo, has been described as wine and the evening chorus of the Lagoon’s market garden. Not the local birds. Despite the surprisingly, there was little to island’s small population it is see apart from fields of crops linked to the vaporetto network and a popular taverna along the which enabled us to leave southern bank offering good theMagnique behind to explore quality Italian cuisine at Venice itself. surprisingly economic prices. Mooring Free public quay The sheltered public moorings Services Rubbish disposal, and (free of charge) turned out to be point of access for Vaporetto an unexpected treat as we network watched the sun setting over Eating places One tavererna

Portegrandi 3 5 miles 4 2.5 miles 5 Mazzorbo Vignole 46 l August 08 mbmclub.com CRUISING VENICE

if someone wishes to paint their home Until the 19th century the they must send a request to the Rialto Bridge was the only government, who will respond by bridge that crossed the canal making notice of the certain colours permitted for that lot. This practice has resulted in the myriad of colours that characterises the island today. After a restful night’s sleep we slipped our lines and headed to the public moorings at Vignole. On arrival we abandoned Magnifique for the day and caught the vaporetto (waterbus) to Venice, as it’s the best way to see the Grand Canal. Although you can use visitor moorings at two tourist marinas on the outskirts of Venice one night’s stay will cost between €80 and €120 depending on the size of your boat. You are not permitted, however, to cruise up the Grand Canal. My disappointment of not being able to take our Magnifique along this legendary waterway overlooked by palaces, museums and churches soon turned to relief when I saw the chaotic

scene of gondolas weaving The Grand Canal is lined with in-between the endless stream of beautiful museums, galleries, watertaxis and vaporetto. Once ashore, hotels and moorings this beautiful city exceeded our expectations as we were captivated by sights including Basilica San Marco’s golden mosaics, the bustling Rialto market, gondolas gliding along the numerous minor canals and the lavish interior of the Doge’s Palace – once home to the rulers of the Venetian Republic. As the crowds started to ebb away from the Piazza San Marco we enjoyed an aperitif at one of the cafes along its edges. Like any tourist trap, the prices were steep but the setting was incomparable. Cruising past the world famous Venetian waterfront dominated by the Doge’s palace, San Marco’s Campanile, the city’s mint, and the entrance to the

As mooorings in Venice are so Climb ’s bell expensive it is best to visit the city tower for spectacular by vaporetto (waterbus) views of the lagoon

1.5 mile 6 3.5 miles 7 1 mile Murano Torcello mbmclub.com August 08 l 47 CRUISING VENICE

Grand Canal by the Baroque church of factfile Santa Maria della Salute, marked the high point of the entire holiday. WEATHER By sailing these waters at our own Contrary to our speed we could take the time to fully expectations for mid June, we had changeable appreciate the breathtaking views. weather, with anything from Having satisfied our curiosity, we caught heavy rain to bright blue the vaporetto and returned to Vignole skies and sunshine. With no for the night, via the southern edge of TV or radio on board we had for a tantalising glimpse of the to ask local people about southern lagoon’s distant islands. the latest forecast. Next we sailed north to the island of TRAVEL Murano, which proved to be the only Treviso Airport is a 10 minute disappointing part of the trip. Apart Burano’s streets are lined with shops selling handmade lace, from ladies top to bed linen Taxi ride from Connoisseur’s from the local glassware, promoted by a Casier base and is served very persistent salesman, and the 12th production was transferred to Murano Torcello, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch by Ryanair from Stansted century Basilica dei Santi Maria e to protect Venice from the frequent fires up on the sundeck in the shadow of the and Liverpool. Donato, the island appeared to have caused by the kiln furnances. Moorings 7th Century cathedral. Later we burnt Charter Costs little to commend itself. And unlike the on Murano are few and far between, off the calories by climbing the bell 2008 prices for a seven other places we visited, Murano’s however, so if you fancy a visit to the tower to enjoy some of the finest views night trip range from £1,110 to inhabitants seemed to dislike tourists. glass factory it is easier to reach the across the lagoon. Apart from the £1,865 for the four berth Venice used to be world famous for its island by vaporetto. impressive cathedral you must visit the Caprice, £1,440 to £2,080 glass blowing but many years ago At our next port of call, the island of bridge named ‘Ponte del Diavolo’. The for the six berth Elegance name dates back to an ancient legend and £1,580 to £2,570 for the which talks about witches, lovers and eight berth Magnifique. Favourite haven Mazzorbo & Burano devils....and apparently the devil still Note: all three classes can The islands of Mazzorbo & Burano are linked by a wooden footbridge. The haunts the bridge today, concealing accommodate an additional residential island of Mazzorbo is complemented by Burano which is known for its two people to the figures itself in the shape of a harmless black brightly coloured cottages, leaning bell tower and locally made lacework. quoted by converting the Moorings Connoisseur’s own moorings are situated along the southern edge of cat. We kept our eyes peeled but didn’t settee in the main saloon Mozzorbo by the wooden bridge. see any furry felines. into an extra double berth. Services Local convenience stores and market on Burano only. There are rubbish An early morning visit back to Burano, Fuel costs and a security disposal points and access to the Vaporetto network on both islands. to pick up fresh provisions, really deposit are extra. Eating places Various restaurants and cafes on Burano, but they close very brought home the importance of the Charts & Guides early (8.30pm) when the tourists leave. There is one small bistro on Mazzorbo. canals and boats to the everyday lives of n Admiralty Charts 1483 & the islanders. The sight of barges 1442 The island of Burano, like delivering fruit, vegetables and even the Venice, has its own network n Italia Navigable – of canals running through it mail, showed that the canals were Venezia, Riveria del Brenta, much more than a playground to be Fiume Sile (www. enjoyed at weekends. Sadly, our own bellettieditore.com) glimpse into their world was drawing to n Adriatic Pilot, Trevor & a close as we embarked on the Dinah Thompson, Imray 21.5-mile passage back to Casier. Laurie & Wilson Ltd n Rather than spend our final night afloat Venice Spiral Guide, AA World Travel Guides at the base, we stopped at the nearby Venice & The , DK public moorings at Osteria de Nea in Eyewitness Travel Guides front of the Osteria alle barche n Venice Top 25 Sights, restaurant, where we enjoyed live music AA World Travel Guides and freshly caught fish from the owner’s nets on the lagoon. Paperwork No boating licences are Although we were initially required attracted to this holiday by Look out for the prospect of Contact a cruise of the exploring Venice, we Le Boat, The Port House, discovered that the Port Solent, Portsmouth, Brenta River and Hampshire PO6 4TH lesser known islands, southern Venice Tel 023 9222 4252 such as Burano and Fax 023 9233 4685 coming soon Vignole, were equally Email: [email protected] enchanting. With more www.leboat.co.uk time we would have either gone south to visit more islands or total sailed up the Brenta River to Padova. 50 Something for next time, perhaps? miles

8 Burano 20.5 miles 9 1 mile Casier FINISH Osteria da Nea 48 l August 08 mbmclub.com