Current as of: January 10, 2020 - 15:28 Valid for departures: From January 1, 2017 to December 31, 2022

Mont Blanc Ascent Trip Notes

 Ways to Travel: Guided Group 8 Days Land only Trip Code:  Destinations: Adventure Holidays in France Min age: 18 TWM Tough/Tough+  Programmes: Walking & Trekking

Trip Overview

In the massif, there is one giant which stands alone amongst a myriad of snow-capped peaks. Looming over the climbing mecca of , the majesty of Mont Blanc has captivated climbers for centuries and calls all would-be explorers to join them a top of Western Europe’s highest peak. Attempted over two days, our itinerary is designed to give you the very best chance of reaching the summit. During the expedition, the rewarding peak of Tête Blanche will also usually be climbed, teaching snow and ice techniques, building your condence and helping with acclimatisation.

Mont Blanc permits: It is mandatory for climbers to hold a permit on this trip. While the climbing permit is included in the package, the number of permits released is limited and they are only released on certain dates each year. Therefore your booking won’t be conrmed until we obtain your permit. Permits are expected to be released on three different dates in 2020 and they are highly sought after. We strongly recommend booking at least 6-8 months in advance to avoid disappointment.

At a Glance

 3 days training/high-level trekking, 2 days summit attempt  3 nights 2-star hotel, 4 nights mountain huts  Group normally 4 to 6, plus UIAGM mountain guide/s as appropriate.  Altitude maximum 4810m, average 2900m  Optional single supplement for the hotel nights only Trip Highlights

 Crampon and ice axe tuition  Two day summit attempt increases chances of success  Comfortable hotel accommodation in Le Fayet

Is This Trip for You?

This trip is grade 8 - Tough/Tough + We have planned this itinerary to include a three-day climbing / trekking section with four nights staying high in mountain huts. Much of this route is spent on glaciers and there is plenty of time for training in snow and ice climbing (ice-axe and crampon skills, ropework etc, which you do not need to be familiar with prior to the trip). We spend much of the time at around 3,000m which is essential for helping acclimatisation. The climax of the week is the summit attempt which usually takes two days.

The training is undertaken by a professional High Mountain Guide, with a ratio of one guide to six clients. Additional guides will join us for the attempt on Mont Blanc summit; here the ratio will be 1 guide to every 2 clients. In good weather, the ascent is not particularly technical but it is extremely arduous. To have a reasonable chance of success a high degree of tness and stamina and some previous experience of altitude is highly recommended. Please note that you cannot achieve the required level of tness during the week - you must arrive t.

Please note that although the itinerary presented here is the one we intend to follow there is a high chance that variations may be necessary. Many factors can affect climbing in high mountains. Individual member's abilities vary, as does their ability to learn the technical skills needed. Adverse weather during the week may curtail training or even make the climb impossible, while previous weather conditions may have left the mountain in a difcult or dangerous condition. Any such factor may mean we have to re- arrange or curtail the programme.

Essential Information

During the early part of the week, the guides will assess your progress and skill levels. Even in good weather conditions, you will not be allowed to start the ascent unless the guides feel you have a reasonable chance of success and this will depend on local conditions, tness and having grasped the necessary skills. There can be no guarantee that guides will be available to organise and run an alternative climb for anyone not able to undertake the ascent of Mont Blanc. This will depend entirely on the size and make up of the group. The guide's main aim will be to ensure your safety and the maximum chances of success on the summit attempt for those t and able enough to do it. Additional private guides may be available but the cost of this is not included in the price.

What are the chances of reaching the summit? Obviously, you need to be condent of your tness level in order to attempt this trip, but the main reason for failure is usually weather conditions. Thankfully the Alps enjoy long periods of stable weather in the summer, with regular thunderstorms in the afternoons that our guides are careful to avoid. However, due to its high altitude, any poor weather or strong winds on Mont Blanc can make a summit attempt too dangerous. In most cases, this can be forecasted and we will attempt to offer an alternative climb in the region (often Gran Paradiso 4061m in neighbouring Italy). As a guide we would expect about 30% of our trips each summer to be affected by bad weather, making reaching the summit Mont Blanc impossible. Even with a client to guide ratio of 2:1 a situation can develop where both clients will have to turn back if the guides consider that one of the clients should not continue.

Walking and ascent conditions During the training and the climb, you will carry your own personal equipment, water and packed lunches, plus communal equipment (rst aid kit, safety items etc.) will be distributed among the group members. On the training days and ascent, most of the time you will be walking on moraine, glaciers and snowelds. None of the ascents are extremely steep (approximate average would be around a maximum of 30 - 35º) but there is some exposure and you will encounter short steeper sections involving some rock scrambling, crevasses, bergschrunds and areas of snow instability and possible rock fall. Following a review of all our trips we have categorised this trip as generally not suitable for persons of reduced mobility. However if you are a regular traveller on such trips, please contact customer services to discuss the trip and your personal condition.

Group

We provide a professional local UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide to lead the trip. For the summit attempt itself, there is always a 2:1 ratio of clients to guides (a major reason for the cost of this tour). Guides will not accompany you on transfer to/from Le Fayet. NB: If attempting Gran Paradiso the guide ratio will be 1:3 or 1:4 clients, rather than 1:2 as for Mont Blanc. Please note that all the local (mainly French) mountain guides we use on this trip are English speaking and fully quali ed, however, their role is speci cally that of a mountain guide. Their main objective is to train you in basic techniques and to enable you to complete a safe/successful ascent of Mont Blanc. They have not been asked to act as a standard Breakaway group leader and you should not expect the same personal level of service.

Adult min age: 18 Min group size: 4 Max group size: 6

Itinerary

Land Only

Start City: Le Fayet End City: Le Fayet

Land Only Itinerary Day 1 Transfer to Plan de l’aiguille (2207m); equipment hire.

We drop our main luggage at our hotel, where we will stay the following night. Those not ying with the group will rendezvous with us at the airport or join the group at La Fayet.

We will have the chance to change and pack our climbing gear and day rucksack followed by a transfer to the Cable car . On the way there will be possibility to stop at Saint Gervais for hiring technical equipment as necessary. Then we will walk down to the hut plan de l’aiguille. If time allows, our time will check the equipment and show us a few climbing techniques.

Note: You can leave any items that you don’t need for the expedition in a bag/case in the hotel as we return here on day 2.

Hut

Meals included: Dinner Distance covered: 0.5 km / 0.3 miles Altitude loss (m): 80

Day 2 Acclimatisation and training day. Practice of scrambling techniques and off-track walking.

After a hearty breakfast the guide will show us some scrambling techniques and off-track walking. The purpose of the day is to practise as much as possible and familiarise ourselves with technical hiking terrain in altitude, to acclimatise and train for the Gouter hut climb.

At the end of the day we will take the cable car down to the valley of Chamonix and transfer to Le Fayet. La Fayet is the perfect base location for our trip, it is just beside the train station to Nid d’Aigle for the Mont Blanc ascent and a 20 mins walk to the Thermal bath of Saint Gervais which you may want to use during your stay here.

Hotel

Meals included: Breakfast

Distance covered: 18 km / 11.3 miles Altitude gain (m): 800 Altitude loss (m): 800 Day 3 Transfer and cable car to Albert Premier refuge. Afternoon snow and ice skills training.

In the morning we transfer (public or private transport) to the cable car of la Balme, where take the chair lift or the cable car up to 2200m and walk up to the Albert Premier hut. In the afternoon we will have the option, depending on weather conditions, to practise ice technique on the glacier – roped up – or practise rock climbing with rope on any of the numerous boulders above the hut.

Hut

Meals included: Breakfast, Dinner

Distance covered: 6 km / 3.8 miles Altitude gain (m): 691 Altitude loss (m): 177

Day 4 Glacier technique training; classic climb to Tete Blanche (3429m).

Today we will practise some glacier technique and familiarise ourselves with our crampon. Starting from the hut, depending on weather conditions, we steadily climb either Tete Blanche (3429m). Then we will walk back and transfer to Le Fayet for a good night sleep before 2 days of tough climbing.

NB: The itinerary for the next three days will depend on the weather on Mont Blanc. This decision is made by our local partners. If for any reason Mont Blanc is deemed unsafe then an alternative climb will hopefully be arranged (usually Gran Paradiso in Italy).

Hotel

Meals included: Breakfast

Distance covered: 13 km / 8.1 miles Altitude gain (m): 848 Altitude loss (m): 1342 Day 5 Train to Nid d’Aigle (2372m); walk to the Tete Rousse hut (3167m).

We will start late morning from Le Fayet by taking the train to Nid d’Aigle (2372 m). From there we will walk up to the Tete Rousse hut (3167m). Today will be guided by the lead mountain guide and additional(s) mountain guide(s) for Mont Blanc climb will join us for dinner. For Mont Blanc Ascent, there will be one guide with 2 clients so one or two more guides will be with the group in the next following days, depending on the group size.

Hut

Meals included: Breakfast, Dinner

Distance covered: 3 km / 1.9 miles Altitude gain (m): 880 Altitude loss (m): 50

Day 6 Climb to the Gouter hut and then the Mont Blanc (4810m).

Today is D-day! After a very early start (can be 1 am, 4 am or 7 am depending on weather conditions) we will climb to the Gouter hut and then the Mont Blanc (4810m) then after the summit we will stay in the Tete Rousse or Gouter hut for the night.

Hut

Meals included: Breakfast, Dinner

Distance covered: 8 km / 5 miles Altitude gain (m): 1750 Altitude loss (m): 1080

Day 7 Second chance to climb the summit; descend to Le Fayet.

Today we will have a second chance to climb Mont Blanc for those who did not have the time or the energy to do it the day before, or in case of bad weather. Then we descend to Le Fayet for our well deserved break, where we spend the night.

Hotel

Meals included: Breakfast

Distance covered: 6 km / 3.8 miles Altitude gain (m): 50 Altitude loss (m): 1600 Day 8 End Le Fayet.

End at the hotel in Le Fayet in the morning.

Meals included: Breakfast

Accommodation Hotels & Mountain Huts/Refuges

You will spend 3 nights in Hotel la Chaumiere or similar, in Le Fayet. 4 nights will be spent in mountain huts and refuges, with mixed, shared dormitory style accommodation. Single rooms for the hotel nights may be available for a supplement (contact our Sales team for details).

Where a single supplement is available, paying for a single will only guarantee a room for single use. It does not necessarily mean a twin or double room will be provided for sole occupancy.

Please note that a member of the group may be allocated a single room by default if the make-up of the group means there isn’t anyone for them to share with. Paying the supplement in advance is the only way to guarantee a single room.

Single supplements cannot be refunded retrospectively.

Single supplement from $279.00 USD

Food & Transport

Eating & Drinking

All breakfasts and 4 evening meals included.

Please also note that no refund will be given for meals not taken or taken other than where designated. Beer, wine, coffee or tea, bottled water and other drinks are not included. Vegetarians: In France, hotels and restaurants are not geared up to provide separate vegetarian menus, especially smaller establishments in the mountains. Vegetarians will usually nd that there is little difculty as long as they are prepared to be reasonably exible.

Transportation

Airport transfers and transfers to the start of walks are done by private minibus. We also use a mix of chairlifts, cable cars and mountain railways to gain elevation on some days.

Weather & Seasonality

Weather Information

The main climbing season is from June to September. Our trips run during this time; when nding a window of suitable weather is most likely. Mont Blanc always attracts variable weather conditions and although we have built a degree of exibility into this itinerary there may be disruptions. The possibility of the climb being abandoned or the route changed in case of unsuitable conditions must be accepted. In the overall interests of safety, the guides' decision will be nal. Expect warm temperatures (15 to 25ºC) in the valleys, cool (5 to 15ºC) on the passes (though it will feel colder if wet and windy) and very cold (-20ºC) on the summit of Mont Blanc. Strong winds are very likely on the summit; in this case, it can feel even colder. It can and does rain and especially on the high passes it can be surprisingly cold at times.

Weather Charts

Joining Instructions

Travelling land only: 8 days starting and ending in Le Fayet

Your trip normally starts at our accommodation in Le Fayet in the morning of Day 1 of the itinerary. Details of how to reach the start point are provided in the Final Joining Instructions - sent approximately two weeks before departure.

As advice about luggage allowances for both hand and hold luggage is subject to change, we suggest you check the airline's website for the latest information prior to your departure. The usual, standard check-in baggage weight allowance is 20kg. Full joining instructions including local emergency numbers will be sent to you as part of our Final Joining Instructions. If you do not receive these at least a week before departure, or require them earlier please contact our ofce or your travel agent.

Transfers Details

Airport transfers are included for those able to meet the group timings. Please note that transfers are not included for clients arriving at any other time, even if Breakaway has booked your flights.

If you require airport transfers, you may (by prior arrangement only) be able to join the group transfer. Transfers are arranged at designated times to coincide with the group timings - please check the group timing details 2 weeks before departure. If you do not take this transfer, or miss it, you must make your own way to the joining point at your own expense.

You can pre-book private arrival and departure transfers through Breakaway if you wish (payable in advance). Please ensure that you provide us with all relevant information at least 2 weeks before departure.

Location start: Le Fayet Location end: Le Fayet

What to Take Essential Equipment

Mountaineering boots (see below)* Windproof/ waterproof (preferably breathable with a hood) jacket and overtrousers Full warm clothing (down jacket can be useful in the refuges) Climbing harness and 1 lockable karabiner* Climber's helmet* Head flashlight Sunglasses suitable for glacier use and ski goggles useful in winds Gaiters (Short ones are suitable) Lightweight gloves (Wind Stopper eece) Ski-type leather/fabric gloves and for Mont Blanc warm mittens 40-litre rucksack - no bigger than 60 litres Ice axe and crampons* Mountain refuges supply blankets, however, a sleeping sheet is recommended. A sleeping bag is not required Trekking poles are useful A small, personal rst aid kit, including blister kit/rehydration system and water bottle Ropes and safety equipment are provided by the guides Special note - boots. Mt. Blanc can be extremely cold and insulated boots are essential. If you do not own adequate boots, this is not a problem as suitable boots can be hired locally. If you are bringing your own boots or buying boots especially, you should ideally bring insulated leather boots with a fully stiffened 'B3' soles such as the La Sportiva Nepal Extreme or Evo, Asolo Alpinist or Scarpa Jorasses Pro GTX. With a good gaiter, these boots should keep your feet warm enough for an ascent of Mont Blanc and are the preferred choice by most Mountain Guides. Traditional plastic mountaineering boots are also suitable but can be cumbersome and less comfortable. Your boots should be well worn-in prior to coming on this holiday, as otherwise blisters are possible and could seriously hamper your trip. However, no matter how much advice we provide, all of us have our own preferences and consequently, you should note that mountaineering boots and clothing technology have been very innovative and is constantly improving. It is important to keep abreast of the developments and wear what works for you. Above all your clothing and boots should be comfortable, reasonably light in weight and keep you warm and relatively perspiration free at all the altitudes you are likely to encounter on this holiday. Due to the varying altitudes and temperatures encountered in alpine mountaineering, most people prefer to utilise a layered clothing system.

* indicates items of technical equipment that is available for hire locally from our local partners.

Equipment Hire

The prices for a 6-day rental period are as follows: Mountaineering boots 55€ Crampons 49€ Harness 35€ Helmet 25 € Ice axe 36€

Pack Mt Blanc 6 days (boots+crampons+ice axe+harness+helmet): €150

Basic Pack 6 days (boots+crampons+ice axe): €130

Reading List

For maps the best single sheet for this area is the IGN / Libris 1:50000 'Massif et tour du Mont-Blanc' . More detailed sheets for the area are the two IGN sheets at 1:25000 3531 ET St Gervais and 3630 OT Chamonix.

Practical Information Passport Adventure Holidays in France Most nationalities, including USA, require a full passport that must be valid beyond the intended length of stay. It is your responsibility to have the correct personal documents and to obtain your own visa, if one is necessary, in accordance with the regulations of the country you are to visit. The information below is primarily for USA passport holders, and other nationalities should check with their travel agent or the relevant embassies. We are not responsible for the actions of local immigration and customs officials, whether at points of entry or otherwise, and any subsequent effects.

Visa Adventure Holidays in France

No visa required for USA passport holders.

For further travel advice please visit U.S. State Department at https://www.state.gov/travelers/

Visa regulations can change without notice: please check the current regulations in good time to obtain a visa if one is required.

There are no specific health risks on this trip.

Vaccination Adventure Holidays in France

There are no specific health risks.

Travel health can often be something people forget about before going away, but a little preparation and knowledge can go a long way to help you stay t and healthy while abroad.

The above information can change at short notice; as we are not qualified to answer all your questions about travel health we strongly recommend you contact your Medical Professional or a Travel Health Clinic at least 8 weeks prior to departure for up-to- date information. Please note: vaccinations that are routinely recommended to residents of North America or Australasia are not considered to form part of the travel health advice, and you should ensure these are kept up to date where necessary.

For additional information please visit: Centers for Disease Control C.D.C at https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel

Altitude warning

This trip includes one or more nights over 3500m above sea level, where there is a genuine risk of being affected by Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). If left untreated AMS can be life-threatening. We expect most clients to experience some mild symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headaches and shortness of breath while walking or sleeplessness. Our leaders are trained to identify symptoms of severe AMS and if a client requires extra care, arrangements such as rapid descent will be made immediately.

On some days this trip climbs faster than commonly published ascent rate recommendations. Based upon an assessment by our external safety and medical advisors and our risk assessment process, we consider the ascent rate is acceptable due to the additional safety measures that are in place for our customers. All our trips operating at high altitude meet our internal altitude safety standards that minimize the risk of serious incidents occurring while travelling at altitude. A number of medical conditions or medications can reduce your body's ability to acclimatise. This may affect your performance and make you more susceptible to AMS. If you are worried about any pre-existing conditions, such as heart conditions, or your overall physical ability, you must seek medical advice prior to booking. The drug Diamox (also known as acetazolamide and normally only available on prescription) has been shown to aid acclimatisation in some individuals, and therefore may reduce the risk of AMS. Clients considering using Diamox should speak to their doctor about the drug, its side-effects and a prescription. Please note that while we endeavour to assist all our clients in achieving their goals, there may be times when your leader decides to delay or stop your ascent based on your overall condition, or the onset of AMS.

If you are not taking out Travelex Travel Insurance, make sure that your policy covers you up to the maximum altitude on this trip (if trekking in the Himalaya your policy should also cover the use of a helicopter for emergency medical evacuation).

Insurance - are you adequately covered?

It is a condition of joining any of our holidays that you must be fully insured against medical and personal accident risks (to include repatriation costs and air ambulance or helicopter rescue services where appropriate). On arrival in destination for your trip, you will be asked to present details to your leader or local representative of your policy.

If you are resident of the United States, we recommend the Travelex Travel Select travel insurance policy, this is specifically designed to cover all activities on your trip. If arranging your own policy please ensure that you are covered for all activities that are part of the trip, optional activities that you intend to take part in and/or on high altitude itineraries, that you are covered up to the maximum altitude of the trip.

Local Time

Adventure Holidays in France's Timezone: Europe/Paris CET (GMT +01:00)

Electricity

Adventure Holidays in France's Electricity: European plug - 2 round pins. 230 Volts AC.

Standard European adapter required. Plugs for charging batteries and electrical equipment are available in Chamonix, but not in the mountain huts.

Money Adventure Holidays in France's Currency

The national currency of France is the Euro (EUR), with an exchange rate at the time of publication (October 2017) of approximately 0.84 to the USD, 0.67 to the CAD, 0.66 to the AUD and 0.59 to the NZD.

ATM Availability

We recommend you bring your spending money in cash, but credit or debit cards may be useful for shopping/extra excursions. Cash points are available in Geneva and Le Fayet. Extra Expenses & Spending Money The cost of 'uplift' is not included in the price of the holiday, this may include cable cars, chair lifts and mountain railways. The exact cost will depend on the routes selected by your guide, but you should allow approximately €80-100 in total. Allow €40-60 for extra drinks (including bottled water) in the huts and for drinks with the evening meals. Some may like to buy themselves a hot lunch from a refuge on return from a walk/climb. Lunch at the hotel on day 1 will cost approximately €20.

Responsible Tourism

At Breakaway we believe in the power of Responsible Travel.

Every time we travel, we are part of a global movement that creates jobs, builds more sustainable societies, encourages cultural understanding and safeguards common natural and cultural heritage.

Important Information

On all guided trips Although our leaders are well trained to deal with different capabilities, if they have any concerns about someone’s ability to safely partake in an activity, or their impact on other people’s enjoyment, we authorize them to take necessary action which, in some circumstances, may involve asking someone to miss that activity.

Although rarely enforced, by booking this trip you agree to section 5 of our Booking Conditions which clearly states that our leaders have the authority to do this. In these circumstances we will ensure anyone sitting out is safely provided for and offered alternative options where possible. Refunds will not be provided for activities missed and customers may be liable for additional costs incurred.

On all trips

In booking this trip you should be condent in your ability to participate in all activities described in these Trip Notes. If you have any doubt about your suitability you should call the Breakaway ofce and ask to speak to one of the experts on this itinerary.

In an emergency, please contact our 24 hour out of hours service on +44 (0) 844 326 7041.

Every time that you travel abroad you should take the time to read the warnings in the essential information in the brochure.

Full joining instructions including local emergency numbers, and details of how to reach the start point, will be sent to you approximately 2 to 3 weeks prior to departure. If you do not receive these at least a week before departure, or require them earlier please contact our ofce or your travel agent.

The information in these Trip Notes is given in good faith. Where differences exist between the Trip Notes and our current brochure or website, the Trip Notes supersede the brochure and website. All holidays can be subject to unexpected changes; in order to enjoy them you should be prepared to be exible where necessary. Occasionally, as stated in our brochure, it may not be possible to follow the itinerary as planned. This may be for a variety of reasons - climatic, political, physical or other. In these circumstances we will make the best possible alternative arrangements that maintain the integrity of the original itinerary.

TRAVEL AWARE – STAY SAFE & HEALTHY ABROAD

The U.S. State Department has up-to-date advice on staying safe and healthy abroad. For more on security, local laws, plus passport and visa information, see https://www.state.gov/travelers/

Keep informed of current travel health news by visiting Centers for Disease Control C.D.C at https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel

Advice can change so check regularly for updates.

For all latest travel information about your holiday, please visit our Travel Safety Advice page.

How to Book

Ready to book? Please contact Breakaway Adventures on Tel: 1-800-567-6286; International Tel: +1-843-856-9771. https://www.breakaway-adventures.com

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