T I askedhertosendmeonaculinary adventure—minustheprivateyacht— recently launched a new travel company, Kudos Life Experiences. When reenactments fromthe actors). Meals,likeagoatbarbecue onanuninhabitedisland,were sirens andancientkings(role-playing with adventures of midst the in MAY 2015 MAY outstanding oilandlambtotomatoes sheep-milkcheese. The isthebirthplace ofGreekcuisine,known foreverythingfrom biggest. she suggested its Crete, and one of ’s southernmost islands, The porttownof and discovering artisans and discoveringartisans Chaniá isanexcellent Chalkiadakis, like ceramistManousos base forexploringCrete STARTING WITH AN OTTOMAN ERA—INSPIRED OTTOMAN STARTINGBRUNCH. AN WITH Inspired bythatassignment,andrequestsfollowed,Nikolakaki ARE FASCINATED BY THE ISLAND’S ANCIENT FLAVORS.FASCINATEDANCIENT ARE ISLAND’S THE BY WRITER IN CRETE,IN YOUNG WINEMAKERS AND COOKS Making History History Making right GISELA WILLIAMS GISELA group sailedonprivateyachts;theyfoundthemselves hunt basedontheepictaleofOdysseus. The treasure over-the-top trip in the Cyclades, featuring anelaborate Maria Nikolakaki,itsfounder,ridiculously a organized Beyond Spaces,thecountry’s topvillarental company. take hisfamilyandfriendstoGreece,teamcontacted WO YEARS AGO WO . in Greece PHOTOGRAPHS BY GUSTAVPHOTOGRAPHS WIKING Odyssey

. , when a Hollywood celebritywantedto , whenaHollywood SEARCHES BEST, THE OUT ADVENTURE TRAVEL 46

Food &Wine.ShelivesinBerlin withherfamily. Gisela Williamsis theEuropeancorrespondentfor for partofmylunch.kudoslifeexperiences.com. authentic andeccentrictaverna, whereIforaged jasmine tree,andanexcursionto theisland’s most an Ottoman-periodbreakfast,under alovely Crete’s centralportcity. These activitiesincluded related adventures for me, based in or near Chaniá, Nikolakaki promised. easily spend a month on Crete and never get bored,” house neartheWhiteMountains.“You can very stone at hisbeautifullyrenovated18th-century Manousos Chalkiadakis,whoseworkison display island isalsohometostandoutartists,likeceramist She made her point by designing a series of food- She madeherpointbydesigningaseriesof FOLLOW US @FOODANDWINE US FOLLOW

food stylist: simon andrews: style editor: suzie myers Travel Adventure Greece

At Metohi Kindelis guesthouse, Danai Kindeli, far left, and food historian Mariana Kavroulaki re-create an Ottoman-era meal.

Day 1: Ancient Brunch HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO, Crete was ruled by the Venetians. The gorgeously restored 16th-century guesthouse Metohi Kindelis is one of the remaining buildings from that era. Located in the outskirts of Chaniá, the property is surrounded by organic vegetable gardens and orchards of pomegranate and citrus trees. Danai Kindeli, who recently moved back from Madrid to manage the place, stocks the small kitchens in each room with fresh eggs and local cheeses; occasionally she’ll leave guests an orange juice–and– cake (p. 50) that tastes of the sun. Kindeli recently began working with local food historian Mariana Kavroulaki to organize reenactments of ancient Greek meals and recipes. (Re-creating the culinary past is a growing trend worldwide, inspired in part by star chef Heston Blumenthal, who researches recipes at The British Library and serves them at his restaurant Dinner.) Kavroulaki, who has produced banquets for The Archaeological Museum of Delphi, prepared an Ottoman-inspired brunch for me. On a wooden table under a blooming jasmine tree, she set out bowls of a fresh quince, dried apricot and fig compote, based on a recipe from ancient Persia. Alongside, she served kaikanas, a dish of scrambled eggs with walnuts and goat cheese, and wheat bread from a recipe that goes back to the 16th century. “Crete has been a home for many cultures,” said Kavroulaki. “Tasting the island’s gastronomic past helps you understand its history.” metohi-kindelis.gr.

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At Metohi Kindelis guesthouse, Greece’s iconic and become a warm salad.

Fried Eggplant Salad 1. Using a vegetable peeler, Orange–and–Olive 1. Preheat the oven to 350°. with Feta peel half of the eggplant. Cut Oil Cake Line the bottom of a 10-inch Total 45 min; Serves 4 the eggplant into ½-inch dice. Active 30 min cake pan with parchment paper. Butter the paper and the side 2. In a large saucepan, heat 1 Total 1 hr 20 min plus cooling This warm salad from local chef Makes one 10-inch cake of the pan and dust with flour. Yiannis Tsivourakis, who cooks inch of vegetable oil to 350°. at Metohi Kindelis guesthouse, Add half of the eggplant and fry Danai Kindeli, who manages 2. In a large bowl, using an elec- is all about the tender fried over moderately high heat, Metohi Kindelis, makes this tric mixer, beat the eggs with eggplant. Leaving some of its stirring, until lightly browned, tender cake for guests using the granulated sugar, orange skin on makes the dish pleas- 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the a family recipe. “In Crete, we zest and salt. In a medium bowl, antly chewy. eggplant to a paper towel–lined often reinvent dishes with olive combine the orange juice and baking sheet to drain; season oil instead of butter,” she says. olive oil. At low speed, gradually One 1½-lb. eggplant with salt and pepper. Repeat “It’s healthier and makes the beat the orange juice mixture Vegetable oil, for frying with the remaining eggplant. most of ingredients we have into the egg mixture. Beat in the right here.” 2 cups of flour in 3 additions Salt and pepper 3. In a bowl, whisk the vinegar until a smooth batter forms. with the olive oil and . 3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar Unsalted butter, Add the eggplant, scallions and for greasing 3. Scrape the batter into the 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil bell peppers and toss well. prepared pan and bake for 2 cups self-rising flour, 1 small garlic clove, minced Season with salt and pepper plus more for dusting 45 to 50 minutes, until the cake and toss again. Sprinkle the is golden and a toothpick 4 large scallions, 4 large eggs thinly sliced feta on top and serve. inserted in the center comes 1 cup granulated sugar out clean. Let the cake cool WINE Zesty, herb-scented 1 medium green bell pepper, completely; unmold and discard cut into ¼-inch dice Greek white: 2013 Domaine 2 Tbsp. finely grated the paper. Dust with confec- Skouras Salto Moscofilero. orange zest 1 medium red bell pepper, tioners’ sugar and serve. cut into ¼-inch dice ½ tsp. kosher salt MAKE AHEAD The cake can be 1 cup fresh orange juice 2 oz. Greek feta cheese, stored in an airtight container crumbled 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil for 2 days; dust with confection- Confectioners’ sugar, ers’ sugar before serving. for dusting

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1½ MAY 2015 MAY DOUGH fluffy. alittle it making dough, the to brandy winery’s the adds Makrinaki Evelina chef Manousakis, at ones for onions; some don’t). the For (some call recipes pies stuffed spinach- of these aversion has Chaniá in cook every Almost Active 45min;Total Pies Mini Spinach-and-Herb in rustic,chewypastry(below).“They’rethemostdeliciousonisland,” kalitsounia—traditional Cretanspinachpiesstuffed withherbsandcheese village providedourlunch. The chef-ownerEvelinaMakrinakiserved cultish, berry-flavoredrosé. Anexcellentsmalltavernafromthenext of themostpromisingsmall-productionorganicvineyardsinGreece. hobbyintoone is nowherfiancé,Manousakishasturnedfather’s the ’90s.Withhelpof Afshin Molavi,anopinionatedsommelierwho and decidedtostaysupervisethevineyardsherfatherplantedin Eight yearsago,onatriptoGreece,shebecameentrancedbytheplace a 30-year-old American whosefatherhadbeenborninthehouse. stone terracedottedwithtables. Awaiting mewas Alexandra Manousakis, winery toawhitewashedhousefrontedbypergolaofvinesandlarge (“ SEVERAL HAND-PAINTED PLACARDS 45 min;Makes12minipies Day 2: Organic Wines ½ 2 2 wine The couplesatmedowntotastetheireightwines,includingthe Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil olive extra-virgin Tbsp. cup water cup tsp. kosher salt kosher tsp. dusting for more plus flour, all-purpose cups

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52 a lightly floured surface, roll out out roll surface, floured a lightly 450°. to oven the On Preheat 3. well. mix and seeds ame ses and wash egg the except ingredients the of all combine 2. minutes. 30 for temperature room at rest let and plastic in dough the Wrap 2minutes. about forms, dough asoft until knead and surface work floured alightly onto out Turn dough the form. to starts dough ashaggy until flour the gradually them into incorporate to spoon awooden using oil, and water the in pour and ter cen the in awell Make salt. the with flour of 2cups the whisk abowl, In dough 1. the Make In a bowl, abowl, In filling the Make

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nostoswines.com table whenIwenttocheckitoutthenextnight. savedmea is alwayspacked,butMolavi Bespoke walnuts, andbeefliverwithGreekyogurt. Greek winesanddisheslikeroastedbeetsaladwith Bespoke, theplacefocusesonsmall-production which transformsintoawinebaratnight.Called recently, helaunchedathird-wavecoffeeshop, bar, calledDagkli,rightnexttotheirhouse;more Chaniá’s emerging food scene. He owns a small wine to releasethatwineinthenextyear. called Vidiano,” Molavisaid. They’re planning experimenting withanoldCretangrapevariety Manousakis toldme. As forthewines,“We’re Manousakis andMolaviarealsoaforcein - . - WINE temperature. room at or warm serve then 5minutes, least at for cool Let hot. is filling the and minutes, until lightly browned 30 about for pies the 4. Bake seeds. sesame with sprinkle and wash egg the with Brush sheet. parchment baking paper–lined a on pies the Arrange seal. to together pinch then center, in the meet to 4corners the up bring square; each of center the into filling the of spoons 2table Spoon squares. 4-inch twelve into dough the Cut thick. ¼inch ascant rectangle, a12-by-16-inch to dough the Alexakis Vidiano. Vidiano. Alexakis 2012 Crete: from white scented FOLLOW US @FOODANDWINE US FOLLOW Vibrant, orange peel– orange Vibrant,

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spinach pies: nicole franzen Travel Adventure Greece

Day 3: Open-Fire Cooking INTRODUCING GUESTS to talented locals is one of the things Kudos does exceptionally well. On my third day in Crete, Nikolakaki connected me with Dimitris Papageorgiou, a gregarious hiking guide. His job was to take me to meet the eccentric, much-buzzed-about chef Stelios Trilyrakis, who cooks in the style of his Cretan ancestors at his restaurant Ntounias. Papageorgiou drove me along a narrow, winding road, past the occasional wild goat and through a stone gorge covered by pine trees. We rounded a corner, and there it was: Ntounias, a one-story building with a porch taken up by big pots placed over an open fire. Inside, past a dozen small tables, you can glimpse the kitchen, where another stovetop is set over a fire alongside a wood oven. Trilyrakis is a frenetic but friendly character. Despite the lunch rush, he gave us a tour of the cellar, where he mills three types of flour for bread, pickles vegetables and stores wine made with grapes grown nearby. He pointed us down a path surrounded by olive trees and wildflowers: “My gardens and animals and beehives are down there.” As Papageorgiou and I explored, we picked wild horta (a spinach-like green) and wild . On Crete, foraging isn’t a trend, it’s a way of life. Back in the restaurant, Trilyrakis laughed when we started looking over a menu. “I have a menu, but no one ever orders off of it,” he said. “I make what I like each day with the ingredients I have.” That day, he started us with a salad of tomatoes, onions and rusks (crunchy, crisp toasts) crumbled with , the soft Greek goat cheese (p. 56). We also tried tomatoes stuffed with rice and the spicy horta we’d collected (p. 56). Alongside, Trilyrakis offered apple chutney. “I normally serve the stuffed vegetables with yogurt, but it’s not the season to milk,” he said. “The shepherds allow their animals to get pregnant now, so we don’t make yogurt. Even yogurt has its own season.” ntounias.gr.

At Ntounias, the eccentric, buzzed-about chef Stelios Trilyrakis uses wild mountain herbs in recipes.

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Trilyrakis (here with his wife, Efi) makes bread salad with crispy toasts.

Greek Bread Salad with In a bowl, combine all of the 1 Tbsp. paste opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in ingredients and toss thor- the pureed tomato, the tomato Spinach and Tomatoes ¹ ⁄³ cup currants Total 30 min; Serves 6 to 8 oughly. Let stand at room tem- paste and ½ cup of water and perature until the rusks soften 1 cup parsley, chopped bring to a boil. Cover and sim- Ntounias restaurant’s version of slightly, about 15 minutes. Plain dry breadcrumbs, mer over moderately low heat, the classic calls for —Stelios Trilyrakis for sprinkling stirring occasionally, until the the large, store-bought toasts rice is tender, about 15 minutes. WINE Lemony, medium-bodied 1. Cut the tops off the tomatoes called rusks. If you can’t find Stir in the currants and pine Greek white: 2013 Argyros and, using a spoon, scoop the them, use extra-large croutons nuts and simmer for 3 minutes. . seeds and pulp into a food pro- or toasted pieces of sourdough. Stir in the parsley; season the cessor; puree until smooth. rice with salt and pepper. 2 lbs. tomatoes, cut into Rice-Stuffed Tomatoes Season the insides of the toma- 1-inch pieces with Currants and toes with salt and pepper and 4. Preheat the oven to 350°. 2 oz. curly spinach, Pine Nuts arrange cut side up in a large Spoon the filling into the toma- stemmed and sliced toes. Sprinkle a thin layer of Active 35 min; Total 2 hr ovenproof skillet. breadcrumbs on top and drizzle 1 cup thinly sliced Makes 8 stuffed tomatoes 2. In another large skillet, toast with olive oil. Bake for about white onion the pine nuts over moderate At Ntounias, Trilyrakis bakes 50 minutes, until tender and the ¼ cup sliced scallions heat, shaking the pan, until the extraordinary local toma- tops are browned. Let stand lightly browned, about 5 min- 6 oz. manouri or mild feta toes with a simple rice stuffing for at least 5 minutes, then serve utes. Transfer to a plate. cheese, crumbled that also makes a great filling for warm or at room temperature. bell peppers and . 3. In the same skillet, heat the 2 3 oz. rusks, broken into MAKE AHEAD The uncooked large pieces, or plain tablespoons of olive oil until 8 medium tomatoes stuffed tomatoes can be refrig- large croutons shimmering. Add the onion and erated overnight. Bring to room Salt and pepper a generous pinch of salt and ¹⁄³ cup extra-virgin olive oil temperature before baking. ¹⁄ cup pine nuts cook over moderately high heat, 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ³ stirring occasionally, until soft- WINE Bright, red-berry-scented 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive Greek rosé: 2013 Gai’a 14-18h. Salt and pepper oil, plus more for drizzling ened, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until 1 large onion, finely chopped ½ cup long-grain white rice

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